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2018/05/08 | 629 | 2,624 | <issue_start>username_0: I am a complete noob when it comes to the 3d printing world. I just finished assembling my printer and I plug it into my computer with the included usb cable and nothing happens. My computer does recognize the printer being plugged in but it just says "unrecognized device in com 4". Nothing else past that. Somebody please help me with the following steps that need to be taken to get my CPU talking with my printer.<issue_comment>username_1: Your question addresses (USB) computer connection, so that will be addressed in this answer. For connection to the printer, you need 2 things (apart from the apparent things as computer, printer and cable):
1. A working CH340 driver installed on the computer for USB communication with the board,
2. a piece of software to talk to the computer at a bit transfer rate the printer understands.
The cheap Arduino based boards rely on the CH340 chip for USB communication. You should check whether you have correctly installed this driver. These drivers are erroneous and prone to cause problems. Sometime re-installation works, once did work for me.
The SD card supplied by Anet contains a folder (on my SD card: `.\A8\A8资料\Software\CH340G Drive`) with the installer file of the driver. Once installed properly, you should be able to connect various applications to the A8, provided you use the correct baud rate of 115200.
All this said, **are you asking the correct question**? Why do you need to connect to a computer, as you can print just fine by putting sliced `.stl` files (`.gcode` files) onto the SD card (when inserted in the computer using the adapter) and reinsert the card again in the printer to select the file using the menu buttons of the printer. Printing from SD card is considered safer then printing via the computer over USB as the print will stop when the PC is shut down or crashes.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Try using the provided SD card and SD adapter with Cura to give the printer gcode. If your computer isn't communicating properly with your printer, you can just download Cura 14 (it comes on the SD card) and upload the configuration file (also on the SD card). You can then plug the SD card into your main board and access it via the LCD screen.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Most of the latest Windows 10 systems with high speed USB (USB3.0) fail to recognize USB to Serial connector (which is here: CH430).
Try with a decent self powered USB 2.0 hub that has been seen to fix a majority of USB 3.0 port issues, or try by disabling driver signature enforcement on Win10.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/05/10 | 664 | 2,677 | <issue_start>username_0: If I have to make an injection mold (for resin based raw material) using 3D printing, what raw material should I choose – PLA, ABS, HIPS etc.<issue_comment>username_1: P20 mold steel is one standard. Hardened parts are required for long life, depending on the service and material (some materials are quite abrasive).
You can get a small number of relatively poor quality shots out of epoxy if it is properly supported by a metal box. Your best bet if you want to include 3D printing in the equation is probably to use epoxy or lost plastic casting from a 3D-printed master. Aside from the requirements of core and cavity with sufficient strength, there are requirements for vents, cooling tubes (bubblers and such like) ejector pins and slides that complicate most real molds. Productivity demands a high heat transfer rate, for very small quantities of expensive parts, thermal design may be less important.
Temperatures and pressures are very high in injection injection molding- high enough to melt the materials you mention, and the pressures are in the 10K PSI range, so a 4" x 4" projected cavity will have a pressure in the 80 ton region.
If you have sintered and filled metal 3D parts they may be suitable, but from the prices I've seen you'd be better off to use conventional machining. Finish is also very important if you want the part to come out of the mold, with hours of semi-manual polishing not uncommon. If you don't have fine surface finish you will need extreme draft angles.
The requirements can be considerably relaxed if you are molding soft parts such as the PVC or TPE overmolds on cables. The pressure is less and the finish less important because the plastic is soft, but the temperatures are still quite high. This is sort of a sub-category of injection molding and specialized machines are used.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Answers above are correct that no plastic mold will work for actual injection molding. Injection molding by definition requires pressure, pressure that would explode a plastic mold. If on the other hand you really just want to print a mold that you can pour epoxy into to get a shape, then you just need to consider a couple factors.
1. How hot things are going to get since epoxy is exothermic and the thicker the cross section the hotter it'll get.
2. How to keep the epoxy from sticking.
For issue 1 I would pick the material that's available to you with the highest glass transition temperature so it doesn't melt or deform.
For issue 2 I would use mold release compound before you pour in the epoxy and probably pick the plastic with the lowest surface energy.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/05/10 | 1,797 | 7,133 | <issue_start>username_0: My main application for my 3D printer (Zortrax M200 Plus) is making 28 mm scale miniatures for role-playing games. Basically people and animals at 1:60 scale, which means that things like arms, legs, or weapons are only a few millimeters thick. If I use the automatically generated supports of the Z-Suite software, the supports end up being thicker than the model parts, and are impossible to remove.
I had a bit more luck creating support structures with Meshmixer, but am not totally happy with those. So I am looking for other software to edit .STL files to add supports automatically, preferably with an option to edit those support structures easily afterwards. Any ideas?
Note that Zortrax printers only work with proprietary Z-Suite software, so the software that adds the support also needs to be able to export the model with the supports into an STL file, not just gcode.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think you'll find automated software to create supports "the way I want them to look." So...
It might be worth investigating the "Advanced Properties" of Cura to see how thin, and thinly spaced, you can set its support walls to be. I know there are settings for reducing the thickness at the top of the support, as well as some sort of "top gap" setting, for just the kind of problem you're dealing with.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you're looking for an extremely powerful software with manual supports, I would recommend getting Simplify 3D. Simplify 3D allows you to manually add and edit support material in the slicer. The only drawback is that it cost 150 USD, but it will do what you need done.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I had good experience with the support interfaces from CURA. But reduce the thickness of the support interface to be just enough, that a smooth support interface top can be printed and set the top distance so that the model itself can be printed smooth and you can remove the interface easy enough. (I got good results with a thickness of 2-4 layers and a distance of 1-2 layers.
Important: the real filament thickness should be set in CURA very precisely, else it could lead to hard to remove interface or a not smooth bottom of the model.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Materialise Magics (STL fixer) is what I have heard works very well. In the process now of trying to get the boss to buy a seat for use with models being made on a Carbon DLS printer.
<http://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics>
(keep me posted with what you find out. I am currently in the same boat and exploring options while minimizing cost but also want good software and am willing to pay. makes sense, I know)
Edit - Netfabb has free software available.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I see that you've already tried [Meshmixer](http://www.meshmixer.com/download.html "Meshmixer - Free Download") and didn't find it helpful, but I wanted to call out [an article and accompanying video](https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/ "How to Create Custom Overhang Supports in Meshmixer - Prusa Blog") that I recently found which helped me understand Meshmixer's support generation feature a bit better. It isn't magic, but it is pretty flexible and you can customize them. Plus, you can export them either as a separate file (to be imported via Slic3r's Load Part for example), or as part of the primary object STL file (though you loose the ability to set different print settings for the supports). Much of my printer's time is also devoted to 28mm figurines and I've had varied success with them. There are some models whose detail is too fine and which require too much support to be worth it considering the cleanup - I have a bucket-of-shame that's full of them. I just ordered an upgrade for my printer to allow me to print with multiple filament and I'll be seeing if [soluble support material](https://www.prusaprinters.org/printing-soluble-interface-supports-prusa-i3-mk2-multi-material/ "Printing Soluble Interface Supports with Prusa i3 MK2 Multi Material - Prusa Blog") is helpful for those small details. Barring that, I've found that some prints do better with Meshmixer's supports while others do better with simplify3d supports, while others still do better with slic3r supports.
Summarizing the [article](https://www.prusaprinters.org/how-to-create-custom-overhang-supports-in-meshmixer/ "How to Create Custom Overhang Supports in Meshmixer - Prusa Blog") on custom Meshmixer supports:
>
> 1. Open your model in Meshmixer
> 2. From the top menu select View – Show Printer Bed
> 3. Select Edit – Transform and move the model to the middle of the print bed
> * This step is important because Meshmixer won’t generate any supports outside of the print area
> 4. If you want to print the model on a different scale, scale the model now, again by using the Edit – Transform. It’s better to scale
> the model now, because an additional change of scale later in slicer
> would also affect the generated supports, resulting in either too thin
> and weak supports or too thick and hard to remove supports.
> * Change the Scale X (Scale Y and Scale Z) to the desired value (1 = 100%, 1.5 = 150% etc.)
> 5. Select Analysis – Overhangs
> * You can now adjust the Angle Thresh and see a live preview of areas of the model that should be supported
> 6. Click on Generate Support to see a preview of the support structure
> * Every time you make changes to the support settings you’ll have to click on Remove Support and Generate Support to refresh the view
>
>
>
(The [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXFKVmMwXCQ&feature=youtu.be "How to create custom supports in Meshmixer - YouTube") in the article goes into greater detail on the settings available in step 6.)
>
> 7. Adding and removing supports manually
> * You can create a new support by left-clicking and dragging from an overhang to the ground or from an existing support to the ground
> * Hold down the Shift key to ignore intersections of the support strut or any other warning and force Meshmixer to generate the new
> support (use wisely)
> * You can also click on an existing support to generate a new strut going down to the build plate
> * CTRL + Left click on an existing support to remove it
> 8. When you’re happy with the support structure you can export the model and the support structure together as STL by simply clicking
> Done and clicking on the Export button in the left menu
> 9. Alternatively, you can select Convert to Solid to create a separate mesh from the support structure. This will let you set different
> settings in Slic3r for the supports and for the model itself
> 1. After choosing Convert to Solid choose Edit – Separate shells
> 2. Export both the model and the supports as individual STL files
> 3. In Slic3r first load the STL with the model
> 4. Double-click on the model and choose Load part…, select the supports STL file
> 5. When the STL loads, you can overwrite some of the settings by clicking on the green plus icon
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/10 | 432 | 1,626 | <issue_start>username_0: My print popped out from the bed and glued to the nozzle. As the printer was printing next hour or so, a lot of pla was extruded and formed on the nozzle.
I'm wondering what will be the best way to remove pla from the nozzle without overheating wires?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
a remark: was trying to heat the nozzle over 180, but I am getting a thermal runout. The pla is hard, I don't want to broke the throat.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jC20j.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: If you grab the blob with a pliers and twist, all or most of it may pop off. If not, heat the extruder up perhaps 10 degrees higher than usual, and wait for the external gunk to soften up and then pull it off.
### edit :
Well, if it won't get hot enough, then try using an external source such as a soldering iron tip to cut off most of the mess, then it may be time for exacto knife blades and small files to remove the remainder.
Unless you're a clean freak :-) a little residue around the nozzle doesn't matter - it won't touch your prints and at some time in the future it'll be "cooked" enough to fall off.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I would suggests to use a heat gun and carefully warm up the PLA to be soft and remove it carefully like a big piece of Play-Doh.
Using the extruder to heat up the PLA don't sound like the best idea, for me, because the inner PLA will be fluid and it could be a bigger mess than it is up to now.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/12 | 862 | 2,769 | <issue_start>username_0: I would love to re-use my failed prints by re-extruding the plastic to be used in the 3D printer once again. One thing that stands in my way is finding an effective way to shred the plastic into smaller bits for the extrude to use. What is a good thing to look for to accomplish this? Maybe a really big 'paper' shredder?<issue_comment>username_1: there is a project called `precious plastic` and there is a [plastic shredder](https://bazar.preciousplastic.com/en/listings/572981-star-international-shipping-star-shredder-kit), but it is a rather expensive solution.
As I am waiting for parts for my [Lyman extruder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:380987), my plan is to hammer the parts and then process in old kitchen robot with steel working area, an [example here](https://youtu.be/9a_ZYDcQV0w?t=44s)
The paper shredder will be ok as long as you can feed it with plastic.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm in the same boat as you, was contemplating spending $2000 on a shredder, and I was inspired by this RepRap article "[Plastic Shredder using Kitchen Blender](https://reprap.org/wiki/Plastic_Shredder_using_Kitchen_Blender)".
In which someone cleverly reminds us that thermoplastics melt. Put them on a baking tray on baking paper:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HIEWa.png "Failed 3D prints on a baking tray")
Melt them in the oven at a high temperature until they're pancakes:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t1rzY.png "Melted plastic models")
The link puts them in a kitchen blender, but I've had success with a $70 micro-cut paper shredder from a local office supply store. The plastic puddles have a thin edge, which helps them fit into a shredder rated for "5 sheets of A4 at a time" (suggesting 0.3 mm max) but can process about 2 mm thick plastic if it gets a good lead-in.
The micro-cut particles it puts out are smaller than the PLA beads. I do mix recycled and virgin plastic together in varying ratios but mixing them evenly (especially with the dye beads) is tricky - it's very hard to get precise even colouring.
At 1.25 g/cc, 1 kg of PLA in an oven dish ~A4 sized is about 1.4 cm thick. So, aiming for about 100 g of plastic per dish will get you blobs averaging 1.4 mm. That fits through the shredder fine. 10 blobs make 1 kg of filament.
The only issue I have with the cheap office shredder is when you feed something slightly too thick in, occasionally the teeth deform the plastic into a chunk too big to fit into the shredder for a second pass, so that piece needs to go back into the melt queue.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/05/13 | 1,365 | 3,996 | <issue_start>username_0: Looking at the following code, from [Line 139](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/2ce73937f3c57aac28a8d5f11a6ed9135a27cdca/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h#L139), [pins\_RAMPS.h](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/2ce73937f3c57aac28a8d5f11a6ed9135a27cdca/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVqI.png "Screenshot of code snippet")
Here is the actual code:
```
#if ENABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)
#define E0_STEP_PIN 36
#define E0_DIR_PIN 34
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN 44
#endif
#else
#define E0_STEP_PIN 26
#define E0_DIR_PIN 28
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 24
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN 42
#endif
#endif
#if DISABLED(X_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Y_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(Z_AXIS_USE_E1) && DISABLED(EXTRUDER_USE_E1)
#define E1_STEP_PIN 36
#define E1_DIR_PIN 34
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN 44
#endif
#endif
```
I've already tried everything that the online community tells me to do to solve this problem, but that all doesn't help me. Almost everyone is saying that I just have to swap these lines of code and it will work, but it's not working. Any ideas ?
By the way E0 is not working because I've burnt a pot on it :)<issue_comment>username_1: At first it was unclear from where the snippet you posted is taken from as it was not stated in the question (*this has now been addressed by a moderator edit*).
Depending on the value of `EXTRUDER_USE_E1` (and where and how it is set) the underlying code of the if statement will be carried out. Albeit said, swapping lines will not work, if you want to use the E1 connector of your motherboard, you have to make the printer think that it is using the E0 while it is redirecting to E1! This implies that you need to assign the pins of the E1 to the E0 extruder (so swap the pins, not the lines). This has been explained before in [this topic](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5840/how-to-change-e0-to-e1-on-marlin-1-1) by editing the correct pin layout file of the Marlin firmware.
---
**EDIT :** Further investigation shows that you have a custom Marlin for the TEVO Tarantula and are using the fork of Marlin maintained by [JimBrown](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula) (**this is essential information** for your question). I have looked into the files, the only thing you would need to do is define the constant `EXTRUDER_USE_E1` in your [configuration.h](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h) file:
```
//#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1
```
to:
```
#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1
```
So do not swap anything. Once this constant is defined, the pin re-allocation is done for you automatically! (see the [pins\_RAMPS.h file](https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h))
Basically, this is exactly the same as is explained in topic [How to change E0 to E1 on Marlin 1.1?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5840/how-to-change-e0-to-e1-on-marlin-1-1) and hence a duplicate. ;)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I simply swapped the pins
```
#define E1_STEP_PIN 26 //swapping to E1 FRED
#define E1_DIR_PIN 28
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 24
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN 42
#endif
#define E0_STEP_PIN 36 //swapping to E0 FRED
#define E0_DIR_PIN 34
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 30
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN 44
#endif
```
Which worked for the basic operation, however now that I've tried to add Autoleveling it stopped moving E1 motor. My configuration.h file does not have:
`#define EXTRUDER_USE_E1`
apparently as its an older version also, just like RAMPS.h doesn't have those conditional statements.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/05/14 | 597 | 2,366 | <issue_start>username_0: So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me.
It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there.
I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot.
I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug.
I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before.
Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?
Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase.<issue_comment>username_1: I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.
Since then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and [ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp](https://colorfabb.com/pa-cf-low-warp-679) with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly.
Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/15 | 2,136 | 7,132 | <issue_start>username_0: I have not been able to print smooth and round shapes using Cura 3.3.1 (or earlier) without bumps. I think they are seams? The filament is PLA.
Combing is enabled, which I thought makes it so that the nozzle travels over already printed areas, instead of flying over the air...*right*?
I have been able to keep the seems hidden for the most part when there are sharp corners. *Sometimes* cura hides the seems properly...sometimes it doesn't.
Here is an example shape I have tried printing with several different settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrinP.png)
The object above was printed using "random" seam corner preference. If I had chosen "sharpest corner", the bumps would all just stack up in one place, but still stick out.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NuTiI.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPmd3.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a5T3w.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ygxYP.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvuy1.png)
Just look at the travel lines below! Why is it jumping all over the place?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/73rsT.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gu0TJ.png)
I have tried "Avoid printed parts when traveling" enabled and disabled, doesn't seem to make much difference.
I feel that there should be a configuration that results in the nozzle not jumping through the air like that, but I can't find it. Perhaps that's not related to the bumps?
The printer is a MonoPrice Mini Delta.<issue_comment>username_1: Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:
[3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Following on from username_1's answer, here is a run down of [<NAME>](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb8Rde3uRL1ohROUVg46h1A)'s excellent
video: [3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8).
*However, this may not be a definitive answer to the actual question about warts and bumps...*
---
**[0:08 - A step back](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=8)**
Back in time - when the RepRap project (and the hobby grade 3D printing market) was new territory - it was seen to be a *doable* technology, with no restrictions imposed by patents. The new printers created and developed included Darwin, Sells Mendel and Prusa Mendel. These often produced unusable parts.
However, impromptu solutions, or kludges led to poor quality fixes giving poor quality prints, by today's standards. However, people (today) believe that because they worked back then,. that they must still be valid solutions today. However this is not necessarily the case.
The common misconception is that it is necessary to calibrate the esteps per mm for all axes other than extruder - adjusting the x, y and z esteps per mm until the 10 mm cube measures exactly 10x10x10 mm, even if that means squeezing the callipers.
---
>
> **[1:25 - Car analogy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=85)**
>
>
> You find that your car pulls to the left, when going in a straight
> line, so you adjust the steering. However, then in hard corners and
> the rain the car handles poorly.
>
>
> Upon closer inspection, it then turns out that the car had a flat
> tyre. You wouldn't compensate for having a flat tyre by adjusting the
> steering, now would you?
>
>
>
---
In order to get that 10 mm cube precise, it is usual to calibrate for the filament diameter, and extrusion multiplier (most straightforward option), but some printers aren't even that precise in the first place.
Mechanical, ripple, slaw, blacklash, can throw you off by 0.1 mm. Compensation for this 0.1 mm is certainly possible and achievable. However, then for a larger print, say 100 mm, then these *overcompensation* will become more evident, and you will be one entire milimeter off the desired dimensions.
So, use the ideal calculated esteps per mm. Timing belts and threaded rods are made to tight tolerances. therefore the worst case of ideal step per mm setting is an inaccuracy of 0.5%.
So, to find the ideal calculated steps use [Prusa's calculator](http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/) which is very good indeed.
If you are not using belts, or very large printer, then it is worth recalibrating the steps per mm for x and y, as 0.5% will make a noticeable difference in larger parts.
Use the files and instructions for these **Calibration sticks** on [Youmagine](https://www.youmagine.com/designs/calibration-sticks), for proper recalibrating without results slewed by the extrusion multiplier being off by a bit.
**[3:45 - So what do I need to do?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=225)**
What do you need to empirically calibrate your printer? In actual fact, not all that much:
* extruder steps per mm setting
* extrusion multiplier (see video link - [Extruder calibration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y))
* print speed, jerk and acceleration settings - These depend upon how much quality you want to sacrifice for increased speed.
Pro-tip: *slow your printing down*. For example, try printing at half speed. Quality *may* be improved, and even if it isn't you will be able to observe more clearly what is happening, and going wrong.
(see video link - [Super Fast Guide:Tuning Speeds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HsIZuj9vOs))
**[4:30 - Other than that?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=270)**
There is not much else needs calibrating, per se.
With regards to slicer software, there are only a certain range of settings make sense, but this isn't printer calibration. You simply learn the slicer software and, with familiarity, see how far you can go.
These days any well maintained and well built and solid printer will produce good prints.
Most slicers give you decent prints without tweaking or calibrating, other than the basic settings about your printer and deciding how the part should be printed.
What about print temp and retract settings? Well, just use the default settings, or settings which depend upon the type of filament. So, no calibration is required there, as it is a property of the filament.
**[5:24 - Summing up](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=324)**
Don't try to calibrate everything
The technology, in particular the software, i.e. slicers, is still developing and improving. Slic3r's prototpye beta (in Nov 2014) has added compensation for fitting errors(?) without messing other things up, which is essentially what the cube calibration tries to do, but in the correct way.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/15 | 1,960 | 6,660 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a spool of translucent PLA filament that doesn't work well with the filament sensor on my Prusa i3 MK3. The translucency trips up the sensor, making it think the filament ran out. I thought I'd create a filament profile in Slic3r and disable the sensor in the "Start G-code" block that gets inserted at the beginning of the exported gcode file.
I've got the following code:
```
M900 K{if printer_notes=~/.*PRINTER_HAS_BOWDEN.*/}200{else}30{endif}; Filament gcode
M406 ; Disable filament sensor
M117 Filament sensor OFF
```
The first line is provided by Prusa's default PLA profile. The second line should disable the sensor, and the third line should print the "Filament sensor OFF" message. If I look in the gcode, it's there:
```
G92 E0.0
M221 S95
M900 K30; Filament gcode
M406 ; Disable filament sensor
M117 Filament sensor OFF
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE
```
But if I print this gcode file, I see no message, and when checking the sensor in the "Tune" menu while printing, the sensor is still on.
I thought I might have a problem with line endings, but looking at the file in a hex editor, all the lines seem to end with a `0A` line feed character, including mine.
Why isn't my printer doing anything with the M406 and M117 messages? Full gcode file [here](https://pastebin.com/YDTN2Qes).<issue_comment>username_1: Have you correctly calibrated your steps per mm a.k.a. esteps? Tom made a great video about it:
[3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Following on from username_1's answer, here is a run down of [<NAME>](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCb8Rde3uRL1ohROUVg46h1A)'s excellent
video: [3D printing guides: Calibration and why you might be doing it wrong](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8).
*However, this may not be a definitive answer to the actual question about warts and bumps...*
---
**[0:08 - A step back](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=8)**
Back in time - when the RepRap project (and the hobby grade 3D printing market) was new territory - it was seen to be a *doable* technology, with no restrictions imposed by patents. The new printers created and developed included Darwin, Sells Mendel and Prusa Mendel. These often produced unusable parts.
However, impromptu solutions, or kludges led to poor quality fixes giving poor quality prints, by today's standards. However, people (today) believe that because they worked back then,. that they must still be valid solutions today. However this is not necessarily the case.
The common misconception is that it is necessary to calibrate the esteps per mm for all axes other than extruder - adjusting the x, y and z esteps per mm until the 10 mm cube measures exactly 10x10x10 mm, even if that means squeezing the callipers.
---
>
> **[1:25 - Car analogy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=85)**
>
>
> You find that your car pulls to the left, when going in a straight
> line, so you adjust the steering. However, then in hard corners and
> the rain the car handles poorly.
>
>
> Upon closer inspection, it then turns out that the car had a flat
> tyre. You wouldn't compensate for having a flat tyre by adjusting the
> steering, now would you?
>
>
>
---
In order to get that 10 mm cube precise, it is usual to calibrate for the filament diameter, and extrusion multiplier (most straightforward option), but some printers aren't even that precise in the first place.
Mechanical, ripple, slaw, blacklash, can throw you off by 0.1 mm. Compensation for this 0.1 mm is certainly possible and achievable. However, then for a larger print, say 100 mm, then these *overcompensation* will become more evident, and you will be one entire milimeter off the desired dimensions.
So, use the ideal calculated esteps per mm. Timing belts and threaded rods are made to tight tolerances. therefore the worst case of ideal step per mm setting is an inaccuracy of 0.5%.
So, to find the ideal calculated steps use [Prusa's calculator](http://prusaprinters.org/calculator/) which is very good indeed.
If you are not using belts, or very large printer, then it is worth recalibrating the steps per mm for x and y, as 0.5% will make a noticeable difference in larger parts.
Use the files and instructions for these **Calibration sticks** on [Youmagine](https://www.youmagine.com/designs/calibration-sticks), for proper recalibrating without results slewed by the extrusion multiplier being off by a bit.
**[3:45 - So what do I need to do?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=225)**
What do you need to empirically calibrate your printer? In actual fact, not all that much:
* extruder steps per mm setting
* extrusion multiplier (see video link - [Extruder calibration](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y))
* print speed, jerk and acceleration settings - These depend upon how much quality you want to sacrifice for increased speed.
Pro-tip: *slow your printing down*. For example, try printing at half speed. Quality *may* be improved, and even if it isn't you will be able to observe more clearly what is happening, and going wrong.
(see video link - [Super Fast Guide:Tuning Speeds](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HsIZuj9vOs))
**[4:30 - Other than that?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=270)**
There is not much else needs calibrating, per se.
With regards to slicer software, there are only a certain range of settings make sense, but this isn't printer calibration. You simply learn the slicer software and, with familiarity, see how far you can go.
These days any well maintained and well built and solid printer will produce good prints.
Most slicers give you decent prints without tweaking or calibrating, other than the basic settings about your printer and deciding how the part should be printed.
What about print temp and retract settings? Well, just use the default settings, or settings which depend upon the type of filament. So, no calibration is required there, as it is a property of the filament.
**[5:24 - Summing up](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8&t=324)**
Don't try to calibrate everything
The technology, in particular the software, i.e. slicers, is still developing and improving. Slic3r's prototpye beta (in Nov 2014) has added compensation for fitting errors(?) without messing other things up, which is essentially what the cube calibration tries to do, but in the correct way.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/18 | 867 | 3,032 | <issue_start>username_0: I've just installed two TMC2208 drivers on my RAMPS board. I followed a very good step by step tutorial and after some issues, I got it nearly to work.
One problem I still have is that when I tell the printer to lift the Z axis by 5 mm, it lifts it by 10 cm.
I haven't changed anything regarding the steps/mm. Previously I had the Pololus, with 1/16 microstepping and now I also have 1/16 on configuration\_adv.h file on Marlin 1.1.8
However what I noticed when doing a `M122` is a line which reads:
```
msteps 256
```
which sounds like the microstepping was set at 1/256 instead.
Maybe somebody could tell me if I missed something?
**UPDATE:**
After some more digging into it, here is what I've done so far:
* Solder the pins on the driver. Original from Watterrot
* Solder the bridge pads for enabling UART communication
* Solder the pin for the communication heading upwards
* Change the `configuration_adv.h` on Marlin (1.1.8) and enable all that is to enable: USE\_TMC2208, Enable debugging, selecting the Z axis, etc
* Check the pins on `pins_RAMPS.h` and make sure they are available in my setting
* Make a Y cable with the 1 kOhm resistor for the TX pin
* Hook everything up
No matter what I did, the motor moves twice as much as requested. Although I set up 1/16 microstepping, the same I had with my Pololus, I performed the reverse calculation to find out that the actual microstepping on the driver is 1/8.
After more investigation, the issue seems to be that the driver is not recognized at all by the Marlin/Board. Thinking that it was a problem with the TX/RX communication, I dug into the available info out there and I found this, [Bug: TMC2208 UART Communication uses wrong pins for SoftwareSerial #9396](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9396).
I proceeded to change the assigned pins for serial RX/TX, but everything is exactly the same.
I tried a different Arduino (original), another RAMPS board and even the 1.1.x and 2.0 bugfix branches from Marlin.
It seems that the driver is on "legacy" mode and software manipulation is not possible. Although I went through the steps to enable it.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't have these controllers, but I read that with default settings the TMC2208 will interpolate the microsteps set by the I/O configuration pins to
256 microsteps. Please look into how you set up the dip switches / jumper caps on your board, it seems that only 2 are used (MS1 and MS2). Furthermore, can't you just decrease the count of the array `DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT` for the Z entry in your configuration file?
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Most likely your issue is related to the PDN\_UART pin on TCM2208 Driver board, on some manufacturers boards the jumper is not set to UART mode by default, so most likely u need to solder jumper to right configuration. Look at datasheet of your driver board.
for example
<https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2208-V3.0/blob/master/TMC2208-V3.0%20manual.pdf>
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/05/19 | 961 | 3,599 | <issue_start>username_0: I've made a 9H-printing model tonight, and only a little part of it failed (because a support dropped off). I want to reprint only that little part.
How can I do that in Cura? **How can I tell Cura to generate a gcode file so only that little part (inside the transparent cube below) will be printed?**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hJflC.png)
I've placed the model upside-down on the Cura plate to "cut off" what was well printed. I've made a simple 3D cube model in Blender and placed it so it intersect with the part I want to print (I've set the "mesh type" of that cube to "don't support overlaps" for that). I've tried using "Mesh fixes: disable Union Overlapping Volumes" and the "Merge meshes" option, but the merge aligns the cube origin and the model origin (which I don't want).
What's the proper way to do such partial printing?<issue_comment>username_1: The [most recent versions of Cura](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16274-where-is-the-split-part-function-in-cura-321/) cannot do that for you. This is a removed feature (or better said: not ported from the old application to the new application), so installing an [older version of Cura](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/10567-split-objects-into-parts/) may work for you.
Alternatively there are many more pieces of (free) software that can do that for you. E.g. MeshMixer or the Slic3r application can do that for you. [This video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52DU7ZSRmR0) shows a demonstration how to do that.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't know if this helps but
download blender 3d, install
expoert your models as stl
import as stl file
enter into edit mode with tab key
and delete everything else
export as stl (maybe would have to set the scale to 100)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: The latest version of Ultimaker Cura can do that (version 3.6).
I have built models made of different material in the same model.
How to do this is:
1. Select your CUBE and select the icon "Per Model Setting" in left side menu.
2. choice "Normal model", select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage
3. Very Important: all above settings must be set to 0!
4. Select the model you desire to print and select the icon "Per Model Setting" in left side menu
5. choice "Modify settings for overlap with other model" and select the following settings: Top/bottom thickness, wall thickness and infill percentage
6. Select the desired infill percentage and the wall top/bottom thickness for the portion you want print
7. slice the model
Note: If you need to print supports, then in step 2 select "Modify settings for infill of other models" (instead of "Normal Model"), and in step 6 also select "Add Support" and any other support related parameters you may need. However, Cura needs at least one "Normal Model" to slice, so to fool it you need to also another Cube as "Normal Model" with the parameters of step 4 somewhere else in your build plate (it won't really print).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: On Tinkercad, you can import your stl and add "subtraction" cubes, and merge them with the parts you don't want printed.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: What you can also try is to separate the part from the rest of the model within your CAD software. In FreeCAD for example, you can use the mesh design workbench to cut the small part away from the rest, then you slice this small piece and print it.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/20 | 507 | 1,840 | <issue_start>username_0: I noticed that one edge (which is also the starting point of the print) is always bigger than the other three. Additionally, the walls do not have the same thickness as well. The wall thickness (starting from the thick edge) starts very thin and gets thicker till reaching the thick edge again. Does anyone have a clue whats the issue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oeept.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEvrT.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZmxi.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: As Fernando suggests, the problem is likely with your source file. One easy way to verify this is to slice twice, rotating the STL by 90 degrees. If both prints produce fat/thin sides in the same dimension on the print bed, then it's a printer problem. If the fat side rotated with the STL orientation, then the STL is at fault.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This happens when you have poor retraction / oozing.
**Signs of too high temp and poor retraction**
1. Thick blob at start point, meaning moltin plastic is oozing out as you change Z position
2. As you see at the end of the line less material, you prematurely oozed out liquid plastic. As the melt zone is depeleated you get thinner lines.
**Solutions**
1. Increase retraction distance. This will remove the plastic from the melt zone and prevent some of the oozing.
2. Speed up Z axis lower and raising. Or decrease distances
3. Lower temps. Start with 3 cel increments. You want to go as low as you can without causing print defects.
You will likely need to do 1 and 3. 2 you really shouldn't need after you fix your temps.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/20 | 795 | 3,136 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to build a headrest for my Sayl office chair. For that, I'm designing a 3d-printed part that's going to fit on one of the existing rods of the chair.
Check out this picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PMzGy.jpg)
How would you go about in getting the exact measurements of that white rod? I tried a caliper, and I'm able to get the width and depth, and I can just assume that the rod's profile is a perfect ellipse, which is probably a close estimate. But say that I want to get a more precise measurement. Is there any technique to do that?<issue_comment>username_1: You could pull it apart and have it 3d scanned if you want to know the exact dimensions. There are companies that can do that for you at a certain price. Our company has used such services in scanning various parts before we obtained our own laser scanning device.
The question is whether you want exactly the same (dimension wise) part (maybe you do for ecstatic reasons) while a part that is a little more beefier would work also.
**Edit:**
Although tagged with 3D scanning, the OP did not mention whether he would be able to disassemble the part. 3D scanning is an option when taken apart. Another solution has been posted since.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You need to disasemble the part and measure it with special equipment, a caliper can help but only as reference since the part has an angled shape.
I recommend to use an optical comparator (base shadows) with this you can have X and Y data to calculate the angle and curves. If you want more precise measurements you can try an Optical Measurement Device (based camera), this also can give you Z but X and Y will help you a lot. Both equipments use a system called Quadra Chek many industries has at least one of this to assure his quality due meets all requirements for Ford GDT guides (geometric dimensional tolerances). no matter the manufacturer brand.
I´ve tried to measure with the phone or table application but is hardly to calibrate on each required dimension. I had to buy an optical comparator.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_1: In an earlier comment you stated that you cannot take it apart. So without taking it apart, you could try to determine the profile the old-fashion way with a piece of cardboard and a short pencil, just cut the rough shape of the rod and place it onto the rod, then take the short pencil and draw the profile onto the cardboard with the pencil parallel to the rod. Measuring the distance from the pencil center to the pencil radius will give you the profile of the rod with that off-set. This technique, or the technique used to create [notches in logs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9FlfMIMv7Q) for log cabins may be used to find the profile at various sections which have to be entered in a 3D CAD model program and splined/lofted to get the surface of the rod.
Alternatively you could use a profile shape tool carpenters use: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyN8.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/24 | 895 | 3,596 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been having this problem with my delta 3D printer where my nozzle isn't moving flat with my print bed (as if the bed is bent) but I have used the edge of my steel ruler and it seems to be perfectly flat. I have properly leveled my bed with a piece of paper and have checked the whole printer to make sure it's square but the problem continues.
What else could be the problem?
### Addition info (from comments)
The gap grows and shrinks in a parabolic manner and it makes it impossible to get a good first layer. the printer is a FLsun Delta Kossel. The links don't appear to be loose. Is there a way I could share a video?
Upon further inspection I found a bit of play in one of the links, I tightened the bolt and the play is gone but it didn't fix the problem.
I have been playing around a bit and I found that the nozzle is closer to the bed in the center than it is near the edge.
I did some research and it's a calibration issue but I have no idea how to fix it. Does anyone know a quick and easy way to calibrate a Kossel Delta 3D printer?<issue_comment>username_1: You could pull it apart and have it 3d scanned if you want to know the exact dimensions. There are companies that can do that for you at a certain price. Our company has used such services in scanning various parts before we obtained our own laser scanning device.
The question is whether you want exactly the same (dimension wise) part (maybe you do for ecstatic reasons) while a part that is a little more beefier would work also.
**Edit:**
Although tagged with 3D scanning, the OP did not mention whether he would be able to disassemble the part. 3D scanning is an option when taken apart. Another solution has been posted since.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You need to disasemble the part and measure it with special equipment, a caliper can help but only as reference since the part has an angled shape.
I recommend to use an optical comparator (base shadows) with this you can have X and Y data to calculate the angle and curves. If you want more precise measurements you can try an Optical Measurement Device (based camera), this also can give you Z but X and Y will help you a lot. Both equipments use a system called Quadra Chek many industries has at least one of this to assure his quality due meets all requirements for Ford GDT guides (geometric dimensional tolerances). no matter the manufacturer brand.
I´ve tried to measure with the phone or table application but is hardly to calibrate on each required dimension. I had to buy an optical comparator.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_1: In an earlier comment you stated that you cannot take it apart. So without taking it apart, you could try to determine the profile the old-fashion way with a piece of cardboard and a short pencil, just cut the rough shape of the rod and place it onto the rod, then take the short pencil and draw the profile onto the cardboard with the pencil parallel to the rod. Measuring the distance from the pencil center to the pencil radius will give you the profile of the rod with that off-set. This technique, or the technique used to create [notches in logs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9FlfMIMv7Q) for log cabins may be used to find the profile at various sections which have to be entered in a 3D CAD model program and splined/lofted to get the surface of the rod.
Alternatively you could use a profile shape tool carpenters use: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZyN8.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/24 | 1,077 | 3,997 | <issue_start>username_0: I've just purchased an Alladinbox SkyCube 3D that I want to use to print board game miniatures and other fun stuff.
However, the instructions do not give the settings I need to put into software like Ultimaker Cura, and this is where I need some help so that I can generate the G-code files from models I download from MyMiniFactory.
I know it uses PLA and the extrusion temperature should be 210°C. However, I need help with the other settings.
Can someone please point me in the right direction? Is there a better software I could be using? Where can I find settings?
Thanks.
UPDATE: For those wondering "what" settings, I would probably start with the printer and extruder specifications. The following is my best guess.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FXKEP.png "Machine settings - Printer")
and
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BVaF.png "Machine settings - Extruder1")
I'm basing these settings on the device specs on this page:
[Link to Alladinbox specs](https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_969800.html)<issue_comment>username_1: Ultimaker Cura comes with pre-defined profiles for various materials. PLA filament is present in between them. This could be a good starting point to derive your specific profile for your own material. To do we usually print test objects and look at the quality of the product. Test prints can consist of simple X-Y-Z test cubes, temperature towers, retraction test prints, a "Benchy" or many more.
Generally 210 degC is pretty high for PLA, but may sometimes be necessary when printing high speeds. Just copying the material profiles from someone else may not work for you as it might involve different printer brands and even within the filament brands variations in between rolls of a single line may require additional tweaking.
---
**Edit:**
The original question appeared to hint at material settings, but the OP changed the question, hinting on printer settings with accompanying screenshots how to setup the printer in Cura. However, the OP's answer (that the OP accepted) also includes material and other slicing settings (infill, layer height, speed). To help other people I undeleted my answer which discusses using the standard Cura profiles to work on to make your own derivatives.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To start printing with Cura, you can select standard printer (aka Prusa i3) and set the x,y,z dimensions in the machine properties window - it is a safe point to start.
Then you could print a test cube and try to dial in with speed/temperature setting to get the best quality.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4TIp.png)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Okay, after some research and experimentation, I've come up with some settings that seem to work.
Firstly, some specs about the Alladinbox SkyCube 3D:
* Firmware: Marlin
* Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
* Nozzle speed: 20 to 70 mm/s
* Layer thickness: 0.1 to 0.4 mm
* Printing area: 110 x 110 x 125 mm (WLH)
Note: There is NO cooling fan present and the base is NOT heated.
Now for the actual printing settings...
I'm using the PLA supplied with the printer so far, and it works well at a nozzle temperature of 210C.
I'm printing at 0.2 mm per layer, which seems to afford to a good level of detail. I've printed a scanned Greco-Roman basin, and the details are very nice indeed.
So far I'm using a 20% line filling, and this seems to give the structure a good solidity and strength. I'm also operating the nozzle at its maximum speed of 70 mm/s and it seems to work just fine.
Obviously, I'm still experiments, and different materials may require different settings, but overall I'm very happy. I hope this post helps someone.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/24 | 690 | 2,339 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to print a structure that I can embed in a resin and later dissolve. I know that some fancy 3D printing systems have raft materials etc., that can be printed and later removed easily.
Can any one suggest a 3D printing material that can be dissolved in say water or another readily available solvent?<issue_comment>username_1: ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see [What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4235/whats-smoother-acetone-treated-pla-or-abs/). PLA maybe not somuch as ABS, see the same post.
PLA dissolves in any chlorinated or fluorinated solvent, such as THF or Chloroform - both of which are significantly more hazardous than acetone.
Hence, as always **take care** when using solvents, see [Safety precautions when using acetone](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/81/safety-precautions-when-using-acetone/278#278)
Also, as filaments are often not pure ABS or PLA, due to additives and dyes, etc., then the solvent may not dissolve the 3D printed part *completely*, and you may be left with a deformed, rubbery residue.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.
Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is important to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant as it will absorb moisture from the air, rendering it useless for printing.
One such resource is [MatterHackers](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/175mm-pva-filament-half-kg/sk/M4MJTECR) which prices a half-kilogram at US$45. The link provides suitably appropriate information:
>
> PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) is a water-soluble material that is often used
> as a support material, but can also be used to print independently.
> PVA supports are useful for complex designs where removing support
> material manually is difficult or impossible, but leaving the part in
> a water bath overnight will completely dissolve this material.
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ytSy.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/25 | 831 | 2,891 | <issue_start>username_0: Ok so I am trying to print a new fusion 360 file that I converted into an STL and then into gcode using cura and I got the gcode loaded onto the SD card and mounted into my Monoprice 3D printer, Maker Select 3D Printer v2, and tried to do a print. Now here is the strange part. When I choose "print file" and then select a gcode to print it takes me back to the main screen and from there the 3D printers screen displays "Printing...0%" for a few seconds. After this it just goes back to displaying "Stepper Disabled." And if it is not stepper disabled it is just a blank screen. I tried to mount and print multiple gcodes just to make sure that it was not the softwares fault and low and behold I was running into the same issue.
Now before using today all of the gcode was printing just fine, however for some reason today it decided to give me this issue.<issue_comment>username_1: ABS dissolves in acetone. Indeed actone can be used to clean up 3D prints, see [What's smoother? Acetone treated PLA or ABS](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4235/whats-smoother-acetone-treated-pla-or-abs/). PLA maybe not somuch as ABS, see the same post.
PLA dissolves in any chlorinated or fluorinated solvent, such as THF or Chloroform - both of which are significantly more hazardous than acetone.
Hence, as always **take care** when using solvents, see [Safety precautions when using acetone](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/81/safety-precautions-when-using-acetone/278#278)
Also, as filaments are often not pure ABS or PLA, due to additives and dyes, etc., then the solvent may not dissolve the 3D printed part *completely*, and you may be left with a deformed, rubbery residue.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Wash-away filament used for support in PLA printing is typically PVA, which is completely water soluble and may serve your purpose. It is easily 3D printed as the primary filament and attaches well to the build plate.
Many 3D printer filament suppliers will carry this type of support material. It is important to keep it in a sealed bag with desiccant as it will absorb moisture from the air, rendering it useless for printing.
One such resource is [MatterHackers](https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/175mm-pva-filament-half-kg/sk/M4MJTECR) which prices a half-kilogram at US$45. The link provides suitably appropriate information:
>
> PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) is a water-soluble material that is often used
> as a support material, but can also be used to print independently.
> PVA supports are useful for complex designs where removing support
> material manually is difficult or impossible, but leaving the part in
> a water bath overnight will completely dissolve this material.
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ytSy.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/05/26 | 651 | 2,613 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using 2 extruders. Is it possible to use them both at the same time.
Now I can use one at a time but not both at the same time.
Is there a gcode that supports this action?<issue_comment>username_1: To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called Sailfish that is able to do that. The feature you are looking for is called `Ditto` printing.
Sailfish firmware is found [here](http://www.sailfishfirmware.com)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: That depends what you want to achieve.
If you want to get a clone of your thing then - username_1 answer is a go for it.
In early days, I was thinking that this could speed up my printing, if both extrudes could work simultaneously - a piece here, a piece there on the same layer. But then I realized that this will be a good source of oozing (even with retraction a nozzle can touch already printed area by another nozzle) so my printout could get material drops.
Moreover, in most cases, we don't want to have one color printout scratched by another nozzle as that also decreases quality and visual outlook of printed thing.
From hardware point - there could be more strain on the CPU to drive next stepper (depends on the solution) and that can lead to slower printing alltogether.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you want a ditto printing is not mandatory to have a specific firmware (or g-code), you only need to add extruder to your end effector and - because of electrical power requirements - add further stepper driver for further stepper motor.
Please note that the maximum footprint of your printed object is less than the extruders distance, for obvious physical reasons, therefore is not that common to see, the typical dual extruder goal is to use different filament/color.
Of course, you have to achieve a notable calibration skill, and of course you have to modify the electronics of your printer (but this can be done quite easily, you only have to share the enable/step/dir signals with all the stepper driver).
This has been already done with the [MPCNC project](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=DeVeyUas5vU).
Otherwise, if you want something more flexible, there are commercial printers with independent extruder. [This one, for example](https://www.lpfrg.com/en/benefits-of-independent-dual-extruders/)
Edit: i can't comment your answer yet, but can you describe your current 3d printer setup? Because if you have the two hot ends that are only few mm apart it makes little sense to ditto-print something.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/05/26 | 688 | 2,754 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently saw [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpvNEZCvk84) video of super-swellable polymer and felt inspired. Printing a swellable structure would be sort of interesting. However, sodium polyacrylate isn't a printable material. Does anyone know of a material that is? Preferably, swelling activated by water.<issue_comment>username_1: To print with 2 extruders simultaneously you need a firmware that supports that. Luckily, there is a firmware called Sailfish that is able to do that. The feature you are looking for is called `Ditto` printing.
Sailfish firmware is found [here](http://www.sailfishfirmware.com)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: That depends what you want to achieve.
If you want to get a clone of your thing then - username_1 answer is a go for it.
In early days, I was thinking that this could speed up my printing, if both extrudes could work simultaneously - a piece here, a piece there on the same layer. But then I realized that this will be a good source of oozing (even with retraction a nozzle can touch already printed area by another nozzle) so my printout could get material drops.
Moreover, in most cases, we don't want to have one color printout scratched by another nozzle as that also decreases quality and visual outlook of printed thing.
From hardware point - there could be more strain on the CPU to drive next stepper (depends on the solution) and that can lead to slower printing alltogether.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you want a ditto printing is not mandatory to have a specific firmware (or g-code), you only need to add extruder to your end effector and - because of electrical power requirements - add further stepper driver for further stepper motor.
Please note that the maximum footprint of your printed object is less than the extruders distance, for obvious physical reasons, therefore is not that common to see, the typical dual extruder goal is to use different filament/color.
Of course, you have to achieve a notable calibration skill, and of course you have to modify the electronics of your printer (but this can be done quite easily, you only have to share the enable/step/dir signals with all the stepper driver).
This has been already done with the [MPCNC project](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=DeVeyUas5vU).
Otherwise, if you want something more flexible, there are commercial printers with independent extruder. [This one, for example](https://www.lpfrg.com/en/benefits-of-independent-dual-extruders/)
Edit: i can't comment your answer yet, but can you describe your current 3d printer setup? Because if you have the two hot ends that are only few mm apart it makes little sense to ditto-print something.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/05/26 | 1,823 | 6,893 | <issue_start>username_0: I have had problems with items sticking on the build plate, especially when they were big (as they didn't stick well, they corners warped -> all kind of problems).
I also wanted to upgrade my printer (Scratch XYCore-Bowden) to have the ability to use flexible filament so first I modified my extruder motor/cog-wheel so it pushes the filament straight into the Bowden tube (classic modification).
This worked okay for small parts (as was the case with PLA).
The heat-bed seems to flex when heating in an uniform manner so it's not perfectly flat which means the Marlin 3-point test doesn't work out.
To alleviate this I added a borosilicate glass on top of the heat bed for perfect 'flatness', but the inductive sensor didn't reach through those extra 3 mm of the glass, so I bought another inductive sensor (old was 4 mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BY PNP with a voltage divider, new is 8 mm NPN) and this started to function somehow:
As the sensor doesn't sense the surface (or the glass at all), but senses the heatbed under, which isn't either flat nor stable according to temperature, I added aluminium tape under the glass pane. This actually works perfectly well!
Now I am able to tune in the first layer distance really well, but still the flex filament floats around on the glass so I added blue painters tape which makes it work, very very well!
All well for flex printing!
Switched to PLA (which always worked okay whatever some small errors in print height, and not too wide items) and I have all pieces sticking to the bed in a manner **I just cant get them off...**
They get big scratches from the pincers, get broken, etc.,...
I have tried:
* Pincers (works for some items, doesn't work for some. About always makes marks);
* Ripping off the blue painter tape (the tape was removed everywhere except where the item was stuck. Plus now I have to add new tape);
* Chuck the build plate in the freezer for an hour. It helps a lot but:
1. Still not easy to remove without making marks;
2. It's a serious hassle;
3. It's also a time waster.
**My question is:** How can you both reliably print and remove your item without breaking it?
Little image of the last part that I broke (the square impact in the middle is after ripping of the "hook" from this hanger when I tried to detach it from the heat bed), as it didn't work at all I had to put it in the freezer for an hour or so to be able to remove the rest:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg "Print damaged during removal")<issue_comment>username_1: If your print is sticking too well, try printing directly onto the glass.
If then, your print isn't sticking well enough, try using something like a glue stick instead.
Most people use a paint scraper ([a small one, like this](https://mobileimages.lowes.com/product/converted/820909/820909561316.jpg)) to remove prints from build surfaces.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: A bit of rubbing alcohol dripped on the print edges may help, especially if the print is still warm. Wait about 30 seconds and then gently pry up using knife-edge tool. If this technique works for you, dilute alcohol in a spray bottle or just buy a window cleaner. If you are designing models, minimize base area and always use a base layer fillet of about 0.5mm-1.0mm to permit knife-edge access.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: For PLA, I usually use hairspay directly on the glass, it keeps the object attached but is not at all a strong glue, sometimes I facilitate the part removal washing it under flowing water.
As [username_2 wrote](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6041/how-can-you-both-reliably-print-and-remove-your-item-without-breaking-it-when-de#answer-6071), a small fillet in the perimeter helps because you actually want to push your object perpendicularly to the bed, and therefore you need to have some grasp point for the blade.
If this is not available and/or when an object is really impossible to remove otherwise, I use this technique:
* Remove the glass with the object still attached;
* Find a robust piece of furniture with a flat top and a (smooth) vertical wall;
* Put the glass as high as possible but still pushed against the vertical wall; (the object must be on the furniture-side of the glass)
* Move down the glass, a quite fast but still controllable movement.
* The object is supposed to hit the furniture's flat top while the glass is sliding on the vertical wall.
* The object will receive an impact, not a force, from the side.
Since this is more an impact than an applied force, the adhesion layer can't resist as a whole surface, but only the surface near the hit point can actually do something. That's the same concept of fixing a nail into wood, if you can only push you'll need a lot of force or -that's why we use hammers- you can just apply some relatively small hits. In fact, I usually see (maybe after few movements) that the object start to detach in some spots, then I can proceed with the paint scraper or I can just continue this way.
Be careful not to drop the glass, of course. :)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: First if you print directly to the glass with a glue stick, over time there will be enough oil build up that you will not have this issue.
Following, if the change in heat temp on a bare glass is not enough to pop it off, I personally use a thin strong blade, specifically a leather cutting blade. Note this blade will through mats with ease. That said that blade is made to cut leather, your thumb is easier to slice by a lot.
Last if you cannot do these, then simply print a few raft layers and don't worry about damaging at the removal point.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: If you're ever in doubt regardless of what project you're working on... **Tooth Floss.** You need the good old-fashioned braided kind, none of the new "Pro Glide" elastic stuff. Pull a piece taut and just start sawing back & forth against the bottom layer in different areas (corners work best)... and you'll be on your way in very little time.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_6: Technology has come to the rescue here. New printing surfaces are available that release PLA very easily. I am using the WhamBam system. A magnet is stuck to the AL bed. A flex steel sheet is placed on the magnet. The flexsteel has a PEX sheet stuck to it.
After levelling the bed, a print is done normally. When done, the flex steel sheet is lifted off the magnet. After cooling a minute or two, give the steel a little flex across the two sides, and the piece pops right off.
I've posted a video at this Stack Exchange topic
[Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10176/printing-pla-on-pex-surface-is-heated-bed-needed)
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/05/28 | 1,085 | 3,403 | <issue_start>username_0: I need to add some simple image renders of STL files to a document. I currently open the STL files in Preview or one of the slicers and grab a screen shot.
Is there an easier or automatic way to generate PNG images from STL files on a Mac?<issue_comment>username_1: Typically you would install a (free) 3D model program as Fusion 360, FreeCAD, or many more options to choose from. Once installed, import the STL file and use menu options to export a picture of your STL.
Alternatively, if you have some programming skills, you could [import the STL file](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Importing_Geometry) in OpenSCAD and render and export a picture from there. Simply create an OpenSCAD file with the code line below and it will import your `example.stl`.
```
import("example.stl", convexity=10);
```
Through the menu you can then export the view to an image. Note that you can do that also from the [command line](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment) as shown by the OP's own answer (nice example of command line usage of OpenSCAD).
These are not the only options, there are many more. E.g. [this](http://dangerousprototypes.com/blog/2015/05/13/3d-model-stl-to-png-preview/) is a nice example. It also describes how Thingiverse.com does STL to web image.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have [OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org) installed, this shell script will generate 100x100 pixel PNG images for each STL file in your current directory.
```
for i in *.stl; do
T=__tmp__$i
b=`basename $i`
echo import\(\"$i\"\)\; >$T
/Applications/OpenSCAD.app/Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $b.png --imgsize=100,100 $T
rm $T
done
```
Credit to [username_1](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/username_1) for pointing out STL files can be imported into OpenSCAD.
Update: This code does the same, and generates an html file with annotated images of the files rendered. When I printed a batch of spare parts for my 3D printer I made a hardcopy and stuck it in the box so I could identify the parts later.
```
n=-1
H=00-catalog.html
echo >$H '
'
echo >>$
H ' |'
for i in $\*; do
n=`expr $n + 1`
if test $n = 4; then
n=0
echo >>$H '
'
echo >>$H ' |'
fi
echo $i
T=\_\_tmp\_\_$i
B=`basename $i .stl`
echo import\(\"$i\"\)\; >$T
/Applications/OpenSCAD.app//Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $B.png --imgsize=200,200 $T
echo >>$H
echo >>$H ' '$ |i'
'
rm $T
done
echo >>$H '
'
echo >>$H ''
```
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: If you don't mind using screen grabs, you could use AppleScript or whatever it's called in the latest MacOS versions to build an automated script to open each file, grab screen, save, etc.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: You can use OpenSCAD, as stated in the accepted answer.
Here is a version of that script that works for Windows for anyone who needs it, as I did.
```
# Change height and width to the desired output image dimensions, in pixels.
# The path to openscad.exe may also have to be adjusted based on your installation.
height=1080
width=1080
for i in *.stl; do
T=__tmp__$i
b=`basename "$i"`
echo import\(\"./$i\"\)\; > "$T"
C:/'Program Files'/OpenSCAD/openscad.exe -o "$b".png --autocenter --viewall --imgsize=$width,$height "$T"
rm "$T"
done
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/28 | 1,279 | 4,153 | <issue_start>username_0: I don't know how to say this but during the print, the printer will randomly have difficulty extruding the filament. I will have to give the filament a *boost* for it to keep going. Once I done the *boost*, the extruder keeps going perfectly fine for a while.
I am using a Prusa I3 clone bought second hand. I am using the settings that the previous owner gave me (I personally know him). He previously printed a lot of stuff with those settings and they seem to work well. I also bought the brand of same filament as he did for my first roll.
My question is:
**Has anyone had this problem or anything similar and if they did, how did they resolve it?**
If anymore precision or clarification is needed, please ask.
**EDIT**
When I say `boost` I mean that I have to push it down a bit more for it to countinue extruding.
I am using 3D branche filament (it's a local store in Montreal).
I do sometime hear it click before the print. When it does that. I stop the print and restart it.<issue_comment>username_1: Typically you would install a (free) 3D model program as Fusion 360, FreeCAD, or many more options to choose from. Once installed, import the STL file and use menu options to export a picture of your STL.
Alternatively, if you have some programming skills, you could [import the STL file](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Importing_Geometry) in OpenSCAD and render and export a picture from there. Simply create an OpenSCAD file with the code line below and it will import your `example.stl`.
```
import("example.stl", convexity=10);
```
Through the menu you can then export the view to an image. Note that you can do that also from the [command line](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment) as shown by the OP's own answer (nice example of command line usage of OpenSCAD).
These are not the only options, there are many more. E.g. [this](http://dangerousprototypes.com/blog/2015/05/13/3d-model-stl-to-png-preview/) is a nice example. It also describes how Thingiverse.com does STL to web image.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have [OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org) installed, this shell script will generate 100x100 pixel PNG images for each STL file in your current directory.
```
for i in *.stl; do
T=__tmp__$i
b=`basename $i`
echo import\(\"$i\"\)\; >$T
/Applications/OpenSCAD.app/Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $b.png --imgsize=100,100 $T
rm $T
done
```
Credit to [username_1](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740/username_1) for pointing out STL files can be imported into OpenSCAD.
Update: This code does the same, and generates an html file with annotated images of the files rendered. When I printed a batch of spare parts for my 3D printer I made a hardcopy and stuck it in the box so I could identify the parts later.
```
n=-1
H=00-catalog.html
echo >$H '
'
echo >>$
H ' |'
for i in $\*; do
n=`expr $n + 1`
if test $n = 4; then
n=0
echo >>$H '
'
echo >>$H ' |'
fi
echo $i
T=\_\_tmp\_\_$i
B=`basename $i .stl`
echo import\(\"$i\"\)\; >$T
/Applications/OpenSCAD.app//Contents/MacOS/OpenSCAD -o $B.png --imgsize=200,200 $T
echo >>$H
echo >>$H ' '$ |i'
'
rm $T
done
echo >>$H '
'
echo >>$H ''
```
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: If you don't mind using screen grabs, you could use AppleScript or whatever it's called in the latest MacOS versions to build an automated script to open each file, grab screen, save, etc.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: You can use OpenSCAD, as stated in the accepted answer.
Here is a version of that script that works for Windows for anyone who needs it, as I did.
```
# Change height and width to the desired output image dimensions, in pixels.
# The path to openscad.exe may also have to be adjusted based on your installation.
height=1080
width=1080
for i in *.stl; do
T=__tmp__$i
b=`basename "$i"`
echo import\(\"./$i\"\)\; > "$T"
C:/'Program Files'/OpenSCAD/openscad.exe -o "$b".png --autocenter --viewall --imgsize=$width,$height "$T"
rm "$T"
done
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/28 | 995 | 3,807 | <issue_start>username_0: If I set temperature say 220 °C, printer heats up to it and it only varies +/- 0.5 °C under non operating condition. But if I start a print, there's a shift of +/- 15 °C.
I've already auto tuned PID parameters and when I run `M503`, the printer shows the updated PID values.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8SCE.png)
What could be the reason?
Electronics details:
* Firmware used: Marlin
* Controller board: Printrboard rev D<issue_comment>username_1: There could be a number of reasons for that behaviour:
Please check following items:
1. part blower/fan cools down the nozzle - stop the fan
2. material is extruded at high speed and takes the heat
3. loose thermistor (when the move occurs as it moves a bit internally)
4. the power supply unit voltage varies - so temperature reading varies as well - measure voltage and see if there are significant drops
5. nozzle heater and thermistor cables can be loose as well (check screw terminals)
6. bed heater connection cables having not a good connection (check screw terminals)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Dropping hot end temperatures can be caused by the filament cooler blowing too much cold air onto the nozzle, or a too high of a print speed so that the nozzle is cooled by the filament (in combination with a heating element that cannot heat that fast to compensate).
To rule out the PSU you could try measuring the voltage of the PSU before and after powering the heat bed, if it drops dramatically when the heat bed starts change the PSU.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Can you also show a "power output" graph (or something like that, which show PWD duty cycle output to the hot end)?
Have you noted any relation between temperature raise and fall and the printing position?
Looking at graph I can only suggest the heating is suddenly stops and then the same sudden resumes.
It looks like you have a loose wire connection to the heater. When head is starting to move, it makes disturbance for the wiring, so heater occasionally stops to work.
There are usual two weak points: first it is where cable is connected to the board. Check is connector heated? Are any noises/sparks from there?
Another part: it is just at the point where wires going into the hot end. If wires are not secured to the printing head, then during printing those place experiences a lot of bending, which makes it weaker over the time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Hello I have had the same issue, fluctuating thermistor temperature, all of them. Discarding the board, and accessories setup (loose the heater, thermistor and so on) the problem was on the PSU. When I have opened the PSU and touched gently all the parts then closed again and connected it to the printer: temperature readings were stable egain, however just for a time.
Fluctuations of temperature due to heating have in general low frequencies due to the heat transport phenomena in material such as plastic and metals especially if the amount of metal material is of the order of 100 grams.
Changes over the time with supplied power of about 500 watt over 100 grams of metal and plastic flow of a fewer grams per minute, seldom, cant cause temporal fluctuations in frequencies of the order of electrical fluctuations. It's possible but not in 3D printing case.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: My problem was like yours and after several test I found bad PID tunning in heated bed disturb hotend temperature process.
Before heated bed PID tunning:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XH6RC.png)
When I fixed PID values for heated bed everything works like a charm :)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/29 | 988 | 3,828 | <issue_start>username_0: In cura one of the options under "build plate adhesion" is "skirt", which seems to simply print a loop around, but not touching, my print. How is this supposed to help my prints stick to the bed?<issue_comment>username_1: These skirts they don't contribute at all to help your product adhere better to the build plate other than priming your nozzle so that it is ready to lay down filament for your product.
A skirt **does** give a good indication of the adhesion prior to printing your product, if the skirt does not adhere, maybe it is a good time to stop the print and re-slice with different options or fix the bed level.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The skirt will only prime the nozzle, which is something really important for the first layer adhesion.
Ususally the first layer has slightly more material (or a lower height) respect to the other layers, and this is done mainly to push the most material against the plate, and this will give adhesion. Without a proper priming of the nozzle this just won't happen everywhere.
---
From the [Simplify3D](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/perfecting-the-first-layer/) guide:
>
> Adjustments to the First Layer Height allow you to vary the amount of pressure the filament exerts against the bed. There are actually two ways to adjust the height and pressure:
>
>
> **Percentages under 100% will reduce the height** of the layer being printed (with no change to the extrusion amount). For example, if you entered 75%, your first layer height is reduced while your extrusion remains at 100%. Another way to think of this is that 100% of your extrusion will be forced into a space that is 75% of the layer height. **This reduction in height generates extra pressure and more surface area for that layer, which will help the first layer adhere to the print bed.**
>
>
> In other cases, using a **percentage above 100% is helpful**. For example, if you are **printing at very fine layer heights, such as 0.05mm**, a tiny variance in your bed leveling can result in poor first layer adhesion. Using a First Layer Height well above 100% can be extremely helpful in these cases. Many machines benefit from 200 or 300% for the first layer height when the layer height is 0.05 mm or 0.1 mm. The increased thickness of the first layer **can help absorb small defects in the build plate** and provide more surface contact area, which will result in better first layer adhesion.
>
>
>
Imho, the life is too short to print at 0.05mm, and my printer doesn't show bed issues, therefore i'll go with less than 100% first layer height.
I don't have the standard cura settings available, and i also think that with different 3d printers with different filaments it makes only a little sense to discuss about "cura standard settings". In any case, my very standard standard settings are: 0.2mm layer height, 0.15mm first layer height. With these settings and some hairspray on the glass i almost forgot about model pop off in midprint.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Skirts prime the nozzle- getting the filament to first adhere to the build platform is necessary for the entire print. Once the filament starts to stick it usually will continue to.
Skirts can also help block any air drafts that might blow the filament away from adhering in the 1st layer of the print
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: **To use skirts as a bed adhesion tool**
1. Make the value of Skirt Offset from part to 0
2. Set the number of Skirt outlines to 10 or 15 ,so that it forms an extended outer perimeter of the first layer
notes:
* This also doubles as a primer for the nozzle
* Also can be used to make minor adjustments to the distance between the bed and the nozzle , before the first layer begins printing
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/30 | 2,200 | 8,142 | <issue_start>username_0: I have been having an issue with certain portions of the walls of certain prints becoming separated from the rest of the model. It happens with smooth vertical edges.
Specifically, this model, [ID Badge Holder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2517008), on the edges where the lanyard would be attached. And on several places on this model, [Cat Necklace](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2253220).
Here is the resulting issue:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VU11w.jpg "Detached print wall")
I am quite new to 3D printing, so I'm sure this is an easy fix, I just don't know about it yet.
I am printing with a Monoprice Select Mini V2, using Hatchbox PLA, and the default slicing settings inside Cura. I don't have problems with any of the D&D figures I've printed, or some of the other thicker square pieces I've printed. I know I've got kind of a bargain printer; if it's just a quality issue I have to learn to live with, no problem. But if an expert knows of some slicer settings to tweak for these kinds of prints with flat vertical walls, I'd love to give it a try.<issue_comment>username_1: I have faced the same issue if it concerns just gaps between the walls (to the point you could put a nail in between the outer and inner perimeters, so clearly the perimeters were not bonding), for me this was fixed with proper tension of the belts of my Prusa i3 clone, and for my other (CoreXY) printer reducing the friction of the X-Y system. Both help position the head better for proper wall adhesion.
Now that you have posted a picture of your product I do not think the above is applicable to you. Your print looks as if it has an under-extrusion problem as the lines on the faces are clearly not touching, you see the diagonals of the layers beneath. This under-extrusion also may contribute to the vertical wall bonding problems you mention. To fight under-extrusion you need to check a few things:
1. Be sure the slicer has the actual filament diameter as mentioned on the box, or measured at various points (if it varies, take the mean value).
2. Check your extruder setup to see whether you have play or friction preventing filament to extrude freely.
3. Also check whether your extruder gear is not loose, re-tighten the grub screw.
4. Final step is calibration. You want to be certain that when you demand 100 mm of filament to extrude, you actually extrude 100 mm. Put a mark on the filament and extrude 100 mm using a tool like Pronterface or Repetier-host. If this is off you should readjust the steps per mm in the firmware (if you are able to do so), or increase the extrusion multiplier or flow in your slicer.
Please look [here](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#not-extruding-enough-plastic) or [here](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it) for more information.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I dont know if I understand you correctly, but let me try...
It could be that the wall-thickness of the part you try to print is to thin or is not "compatible" with your nozzle size.
Lets say your nozzle and output size is 0.4mm. You now try to print a wall with a thickness of 1mm. So the printer will print 2 wall-perimeters (left and right) with a 0.4mm thickness. Between these walls there is now a 0.2mm gap. The slicer cannot fill this gap as its to small for the nozzle, so it is left empty.
I run into this problem multiple times already with different models using Cura.
But, atleast in older versions of Cura, if you go to the layer-view you can kind of preview/see the problem.
(Iam still using an older Version.)
This problem can also effect the overall print quality of the part.
(For example I had a part with very big stringing problems but only on the inside of a specific wall. The wall wasnt even thin, it was a couple of mm, but the overall thickness of the wall was not a multiple of my nozzle-size so it created problems.)
Some say you should design a model with a nozzle size already in mind, however this is not really practical, as everybody uses different settings/printers and not everybody creates his own models.
Here are some more infos regarding this issue: (and more "walls-not-touching" issues)
<https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#wallspace>
So maybe try varying your nozzle size and wall thicknesses and see if this changes something in the cura preview already.
This problem can also happen if you have some very tight corners, which are to small for the nozzle.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: When printing someone else's model, your print is at the mercy of their design. Designing for multiple printers is hard work, and even if something is printable on 90% of printers, you may be in the 10%. Sometimes designs use walls too thin for other printers. On this design, the lanyard wall looks a bit thin but workable. My own card holder has a thicker wall at that junction: <https://github.com/firepick1/taz-shield/blob/master/STL/Cardholder.stl>
Vertical walls are the weakest part of 3D printing. Walls are made up of overlapping filament strands. They'll come apart if your printer belts are loose and the strands don't align (tighten belt if there is play). They'll come apart if you print too fast and the contact area is too thin (slow down for better contact and more accurate motion). They'll come apart if filament head temp is too low and the strands don't fuse (bump it up by 5C and try again).
Slicing software normally takes are of all this for you, but it's good to understand what happens on the print bed because your slicing software will often have options that you will need to tweak for your specific printer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Yup I can tell at a glance it is under extrusion. I bet the issue is temp.
Test your steps per MM for E. See <https://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide>
>
> Measure Required tools: vernier caliper with depth gauge, or similar
> tool that can precisely measure 100mm. Your hob effective diameter is
> unlikely to be exactly 7mm.
>
>
> Remove the hot-end from extruder so you don't waste filament. Feed in
> some filament. Using the extruder body as a reference point, mark the
> filament at 120mm. Tell the printer to feed 100mm of filament. Measure
> the distance from the extruder body to the mark you made. It will be
> over 20mm if it moved too little, under if it moved too far.
> new\_e\_steps = old\_e\_steps \* (100 / distance\_actually\_moved) … or,
> old\_e\_steps \* (100 / (120 - distance\_to\_mark)) Set this value in your
> firmware. You may need to re-flash your board. Sprinter/Marlin
> supports M92 Ennn to set this value temporarily. Repeat from Step 3
> until you get between 96-104mm. Then continue with this guide. You'll
> dial it in perfectly later on. Don't flash firmware yet. There's a
> further refinement to this value below. Why? The back-pressure from
> the hot-end alters how much plastic each hob revolution pushes, and
> you'll probably end up tightening your idler more which reduces the
> hob effective diameter. Re-attach hot end.
>
>
>
If that comes out correct, your Temps are too low.
To fix this, you will need to play around and increase your temps by 2-3 degrees until the infill comes out correctly. Do not go over the minimum needed else you will have other issues.
Also check for obstructions such as carbon buildup in the nozzle. In addition to the tightness of your filament tensioner on your extruder drive if you have one.
I will say, I had this issue on my Ultimaker 2. An apparent design flaw caused the filament drive to lose power over time or possibly wear on the tube causing extra drag (bowden tube only issues). I corrected it by increasing the extrusion multiplier in simplify3d. However that is a bandaid and the real issue should be addressed. In my case in the end I replaced the drive with a bondtech.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/05/30 | 643 | 2,488 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got a Prusa i3 MK3. I have printed with PLA, PETG and tried HIPS. Haven't had any clogs with PLA and PETG, but with HIPS I've got a weird problem.
My first three test prints in HIPS went fine, but then I got a very bad clog (required total disassembly of the extruder) twice. And every time, it was at the same moment during a print. The object I was printing was a hollow cylinder. The walls were about 5 mm thick, getting thinner near the top edge. At the moment the walls started getting thinner, the problems started.
I've read that HIPS can clog if the filament moves too slow through the hotend. At the moment the clog occurred, the printer was printing a very narrow part, and the extruder had to move around a lot. Is it possible that, at that moment, the filament moves too slow and the problems starts? I have also printed two copies of the object in a single run, and then the problem didn't occur.
I hope my explanation makes sense, but here's what it comes down to: Does HIPS clog easily when the filament moves too slow, and if it does, what can I do to solve this?<issue_comment>username_1: This has been sitting for a long time without an answer, so let me answer with an experience I've had with PETG rather than HIPS.
PETG seems to be a relatively soft plastic. It isn't soft like TPU, but it is softer than PLA or ABS. The HIPS filament (which I have but haven't used) appears to also be softer, so it is possible that my PETG problem could relate to your HIPS problem.
I was printing and re-printing an object with PETG that had worked fine with PLA. Three times in a row, I got a filament jam in about the same place.
The problem was that the filament was retracting, returning, retracting, and returning many times within a very small amount of extruded plastic. My extruder was set for high pressure between the drive roller and the idler. When the filament went back and forth through the extruder, it flattened enough that it would jam from being too wide to fit through the next stage (in my case, a Bowden tube).
When I reduced the compression of the filament in the extruder, the problem stopped. I also reduced the retraction distance, and increased the minimum travel before the slicer would do a retract. Both were intended to reduce the number of times any single bit of filament would pass through the rollers.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: HIPS does better with a wider nozzle; try a 1mm nozzle.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/06/04 | 982 | 4,100 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm having an issue with my very first printer, a Monoprice Select Mini V2. After doing about 20 successful prints on it, the Z axis is suddenly acting very odd.
When I 'home' the Z axis and move the nozzle on the X and Y, I can do the paper test on all four corners of the bed without issue - the leveling is near-perfect. But when I start a print job, the nozzle is much lower - by at least 1-2 mm.
This causes the print head to grind against the print bed, which I unfortunately need to replace as it's pretty much destroyed. The nozzle is so much lower at the start of a print job than it is at the home position that it ground a permanent line on the bed. It's trying to go so low, there's enough pressure on the nozzle to not let any filament escape - leaving a bad gouge like I dragged a screwdriver across the print surface. Not good.
It's not the Z-axis limiter switch. I confirmed that is both working and secured tightly to the printer body. When homing the Z axis, I can hear the switch click and the printer stops at that position correctly. It's only when I start a print job that it ends up lower, almost as if it's ignoring the switch.
I also eliminated my slicer software from the equation by printing something I had printed successfully just a couple hours prior - without reslicing or modifying the GCODE file at all. I'm at the point now where I can't print anything that I could before, without having this problem. My heat and speed settings remained untouched.
How can I solve this? The issue popped up just after doing a successful print. What gives? I've heard of the opposite problem (Z-Axis 'too high'), especially after changing nozzles, but not 'too low', and I've never seen it where the print job actually starts lower than the true zero position. Help!<issue_comment>username_1: Check the Z-drive for any component looseness. Look at belts, gears, anything with screws. Wiggle things mercilessly checking for play.
At the start of a normal print run, the the print head typically rises up very high as the head warms up (depends on software) and then lowers to print. If your homing paper test happened with the head near the limit switch, then the difference between those two use cases is the Z-distance traveled to get to the same place. You have eliminated software and electrical considerations, which leaves mechanical considerations. A slipping gear or belt might contribute to this odd behavior you describe.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This ended up being a combination of print bed height and an unknown slicer profile parameter (probably the first layer height setting).
I completely uninstalled Cura, wiped out my profiles and downloading the ones from Monoprice, installed an older version of Cura and loaded them in. I also issued an `M502` and `M500` command to reset the EEPROM/firmware.
That seemed to have a tiny bit of improvement, but my first layer was still maybe 0.5 mm low (it was no longer grinding against the bed but was still creating a 'canal' with the plastic). I then did a tiny adjustment on each bed screw to lower it on the Z axis, just barely turning the screws, as evenly as I could.
An initial print after doing that seems to be going well. I may have to do one more teeny tiny adjustment to the bed height again. So it was probably a combination of slicer settings and bed height, the latter I probably made worse when initially trying to solve the problem. Lesson learned...kinda. I still need a new print bed!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I just had this issue with my Monoprice Select Mini V2. It seems there's some bug in the software if you already have the 3D printer at its lowest Z-elevation before starting the home calibration. To make sure it prints correctly, move the head up using the manual controls, then hit home. It should then go to the correct default location. I then adjusted my print height to that default home location and it seems to be working again.
Hope this helps other people still having difficultly with this is
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/06/04 | 677 | 2,692 | <issue_start>username_0: We wanted to test the post process properties of PVA but did not want to print anything. We unloaded the ABS that was in the printer and then started loading some PVA. After the PVA was loaded we let it keep going through the loading process until it pushed all the PVA out and we had our test sample. We then stopped the loading process and started the loading process again to put the ABS back so we could continue with normal printing procedures. Now, the ABS will not load into the right side and started making a clicking/ticking noise. Our printer is a Flashforge Dreamer. What is wrong with my printer and how can I fix it?<issue_comment>username_1: Run some cleaning filament through the extruder at the printing temperature of your PVA or ABS filament, whichever is greater, until the old stuff has been completely displaced. Then load the new filament until the cleaning filament has been completely displaced.
This should be done every time you are switching materials, unless you don't mind disassembling the extruder and/or hotend and clean it out manually.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: PVA is nasty filament to print (from experience). I use it in the Ultimaker 3 in a separate designed core (BB) and even with that core the filament frequently cooks up and carbonizes clogging the nozzle resulting in grinding of the filament at the feeder (it also attracts water really easy, so keep it in the bag with desiccant bags).
To clean the inside of the nozzle, a few techniques exist to remove blockage. E.g. by performing a `cold pull` or using the `atomic method`. Both techniques rely on the mechanism to insert the (cleaning) filament when it's hot and remove it quickly at a lower temperature. E.g. see [here](https://printrbot.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/202100554-Unclogging-the-Hot-End-Using-the-Cold-Pull-Method) or [here](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/under-extrusion-problems-or-clicking-sounds-heres-why-and-how-to-fix-it).
The trick is that you pull out all the goo inside the nozzle, you do that by raising the temperature and sticking some (cleaning or high temperature) filament (your ABS will do fine) to the goo. When the temperature lowers, you quickly pull and hope that some of the goo sticks to you cleaning filament. Cut of the tip and repeat until no goo or burnt particles come out and you can push the cleaning filament through the nozzle. You do not need the automatic feeding, it's all manual labor, just raise temperature through the menu and press the lever of the extruder to load the cleaning filament, lower temp and pull back after cooling a bit while pressing the extruder lever.
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/06/05 | 502 | 1,972 | <issue_start>username_0: 2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.
I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.
The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so. I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.
What typically causes the plate clips to come free? Is there anything I can do about it? Will adding more clips around the edges help? I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...<issue_comment>username_1: Your nozzle may have caught up with the print somehow pushing the binder clip off by moving the glass slate.
Apparently this is a more [common](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/thread/raise3d-n2-plus-glass-bed-not-secure) problem. Try adding more binder clips, this has been reported to help preventing shifting.
Maybe with some ingenuity you could develop your own fastening system depending on the bed. Alternatively, you could make the underside of the glass a little sticky so that it does not move easily (a little PVA based glue maybe or hairspray, I've done that with my mouse mat with 3DLAC :) which is now not slipping from the desk).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/05 | 806 | 2,902 | <issue_start>username_0: Has anyone configured BLTouch with Marlin firmware?
I could only find videos about older firmware version. I followed [this document](https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/f5a1c8_77c6538efc934dbeab2f6e06e175ec35.pdf). To avoid causing any damage to the printer, I removed all connections, took the board out and connected a stepper to Z-axis terminal and BLTouch to Z-min and servo 1. All other axes are not connected. X-min and Y-min end stops were shorted using jumper (Mine is NC configuration).
After updating the firmware, I can move the X and Y steppers, but not Z stepper. There's a blue light glowing inside BLTouch, which turns off if I remove Servo connections.
The `M119` command shows all end stops are open.
Do I have to change pull up settings of end stop?
I cuurently have:
* Marlin 1.1.6
* BLTouch Classic
Here's my [configuration](https://drive.google.com/open?id=1hX5qZ3nnSY7cxfvX1J8z8wPrAGqynfKL) file
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NIoLA.png)<issue_comment>username_1: For security reasons, you cannot move Z until home position is applied to X, Y and Z.
With the level sensor attached, we need to home X and Y, and then Z will be homed in the middle of the bed (as configured). Execute `G28` to home all axis and then you shall be able to run 'Z'.
To test that, you can unplug just steppers (with power switched off to prevent damaging the stepper drivers) and move X and Y manually to home position, then just give a touch to the BL sensor (when servo/pin) is deployed to confirm home position.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: **Edit:** *The answer below reflected the original question and upload of the configuration that was incorrectly configured. The value of this answer can be found in checking your configuration thoroughly before you post a question. It also answers the question whether pull-up resistors need to be set for the end stops.*
---
Basically you need to follow the instructions of the manual/sheet you mention in your question. Be sure to **get all the changes correct in your configuration.h** file!
E.g. in your configuration
```
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
```
should be
```
#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command
```
So no servo was defined (the servo pulls up the pin of the BLTouch sensor)! Also your BLTouch delay is `375` while `100` is prescribed. Please check that you managed to get all the proposed changes in the configuration file (as I stopped comparing for you after finding 2 errors in your configuration!) as I believe that you have not updated your configuration correctly as described. There should be no differences in setup for Marlin 1.1.6 or 1.1.8.
**To answer your question**: No, you do not need to change pull-up settings.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/06/07 | 2,834 | 9,338 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm in the process of building my own head unit / stereo prototype for a car, which will have a 3D-printed enclosure.
My concern is that cars can get quite hot in the sun, and even more so if you live in hot climates. Some estimations put the interior of cars getting up to 50-60 °C, sometimes even in only 20 °C weather due to the 'greenhouse' effect created in the car. I live in a fairly temperate climate, but the summers can still get up to 20-29 °C (80-85 °F), and my car might get up to 60 °C/150 °F on a hot day.
The part won't be exposed *directly* to the sun, but will obviously be exposed to heat both from the interior of the car when in the sun, and potentially from the engine radiating heat through the firewall, though the latter factor will differ from car to car.
Should I be concerned using PLA for my part? If not, what material, if any, would be better suited for these possible temperatures (other than metal)?<issue_comment>username_1: No, PLA cannot be used in cars standing in the sun. Temperatures can locally get over 50 °C (122 °F).
I have printed sun visor hinge pins from PLA for a car (not exposed to direct sunlight either), but after one day in the sun (it usually doesn't get over 29 °C or about 85 ˚F here too) the pin deformed (only printed it for form fitting). The actual pin was eventually printed in PETG, and even with PETG the part deformed a little when it got really hot in the car.
Your part might not get that hot as it is lower in the car, but you could best print parts in Nylon (Polyamide, PA), ABS or any other high temperature resistant Co-Polymer (e.g. made from Amphora HT5300), there are lots to choose from nowadays.
If it is a non load bearing component that is not stressed (e.g. a cover or a bushing) it could be printed in PLA, but I would not take a change and would print it directly in a more temperature resistant material.
---
Downloading some of the technical data sheets from various filaments will give you for [PLA](https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49911-pla#technical):
>
> **Not suitable for** long term outdoor usage or applications where the
> printed part is exposed to temperatures higher than 50 °C (122 °F).
>
>
>
similar for [Nylon](https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49913-nylon#technical):
>
> **Not suitable for** applications where the printed part is exposed to
> temperatures higher than 80 °C (176 °F).
>
>
>
To complete the overview, generally, materials should not be exposed prolonged periods of time above (give or take):
* 70 °C (158 °F) for basic Co-Polymers
* 85 °C (185 °F) for ABS
* 100 °C (212 °F) for enhanced Co-Polymers and ASA
* 105 °C (221 °F) for Polypropylene (PP)
* 110 °C (230 °F) for Polycarbonate (PC)
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you put PLA parts in a sealed plastic bag (or two to keep it dry) and simmer in water (212 °F or 100 °C), the part "anneals". The time taken varies with the part shape, but for small parts should be about 15-30 minutes. You can simmer longer if unsure, but it provides no additional benefit once the part is annealed. When you remove and cool the annealed part, it will feel harder and more compact. You may also notice a slight hazing or color change.
Annealed parts become a bit more resistant to heat warp. The annealing process shrinks and hardens your part (I've annealed gears) so you need to account for the shrinkage by making the unannealed part slightly larger. I do this for stepper mounts or gears as needed. Putting your part in the passenger compartment of a car can work depending on your climate. My daughter-in-law has a camera mount on her dashboard showing significant warp, but she still uses it.
Here's [more information](https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/how-to-anneal-your-3d-prints-for-strength) and I'm sure you can find more...
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The sun will rot most, if not all plastics, with PLA, ABS and PETG rotting to varying degrees and at differing rates. So, if even part of your enclosure, such as the edges, are visible, they will invariably be exposed to the sun at some point (although maybe not sufficiently enough) which will make them brittle.
However, as you say, your main concern here is not direct sunlight, but heat. As this informative article, [Using PLA for Long-Term Outdoor Applications](https://www.iepas.ucar.edu/using-pla-for-long-term-outdoor-applications/), suggests:
>
> PLA is great as the warping is less than with ABS.
>
>
>
Interestingly, it also notes (again related to sunlight, not a concern in your case):
>
> As a side note, PLA is referenced as considerably UV resistant.
>
>
>
---
### Similar Questions
Whilst your question is not a duplicate, as such, there are already a number of questions (and answers) on this topic, that I remember having seen and being relevant.
Whilst I have quoted *some* of the relevant parts below, it might also be worth taking a look at the *other* posts on these links:
* [PLA use outdoors?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2952/pla-use-outdoors/2982#2982)
>
> Keep in mind that PLA has a much lower temperature point, where is starts getting flexible. I once had PLA-printed parts in my car in the summer for 3 hours and when I came back, they where bent.
>
>
> I don't know about the weather conditions in your local environment, but if you experience hot temperatures and your sign is hanging in direct sunlight, I would suggest to make sure you secure the letters against bending (e.g. cover them with a coat of epoxy or something like this).
>
>
>
* [PLA continuous operative temperature](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4487/pla-continuous-operative-temperature/4502#4502)
>
> The property you're looking for in the thermoplastic (which will determine the continuous operating temperature) is glass transition temperature. This is the point at which the plastic begins to flow, and becomes deformable as [EvilTeach described](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4487/pla-continuous-operative-temperature#answer-4488). PLA reaches this state at around 60 °C, whereas ABS is around 105°C, just suiting your specifications. To go a bit further, polycarbonate offers a glass transition temperature of around 150 °C, and Ultem at 217 °C.
>
>
>
* [ABS or PLA for structural printed parts?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3968/abs-or-pla-for-structural-printed-parts/3969#3969)
>
> 50 °C is hot for you. PLA's glass transition temperature is 65 °C. A car in the mid-day sun can get very hot indeed.
>
>
> ... if the part is designed to be strong enough for its use in PLA, it will be no better in "stronger" ABS. If the PLA part will be "more precise" and "less warped" - that may well make it better for its use. Other than a widespread community dedication to self-replication, (or mostly self-replicating with some metal parts) there's plenty of arguments for making most printer parts out of machined metal, for that matter - much stronger than ABS or PLA.
>
>
>
* [3d printing for outdoor use: what types of filament are most weather resistant?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10/3d-printing-for-outdoor-use-what-types-of-filament-are-most-weather-resistant)
>
> PLA also will slowly melt in direct sunlight. I have seen this one firsthand, having left a print on my windowsill and watching it slowly morph with the weight of objects on top of it.
>
>
>
Also related, temperature wise, although not *strictly* in-car related (although that is where you would most likely find a travel mug), is the most informative answer by <NAME>, which makes mention of *annealing* as suggested by [username_2 Aeroponics's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6119/can-you-put-pla-parts-in-your-car-in-the-sun#answer-6122):
* [Travel Mug Woes](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1128/travel-mug-woes/1134#1134)
>
> It is possible to anneal PLA to survive higher temperatures, as this increases the crystallinity of the polymer and thus makes it more heat-stable. However, that is highly experimental and results will vary considerably with filament provider, color/pigment, and annealing process used.
>
>
>
* [Which is more durable to sunlight/weather - PLA, ABS or PETG](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3853/which-is-more-durable-to-sunlight-weather-pla-abs-or-petg)
>
> PLA would be a non-starter for outdoor use as it's biodegradable and can breakdown in sunlight. Albeit slowly, but won't be useful for long term project.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: Just minutes ago, I took a PLA part from my car that is parked in the sun, it is warped and bloated. It was wrapped in a towel, not in direct sunlight. The temperature in the car was near 60°C. I would not recommend using PLA on parts that may be left in a vehicle.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Just for completeness sake, one can print a casting mould and then cast UV resilient resins from the mould.
The mould would be made of PLA. Because it is quite brittle, you would need to make a multi-part mould if you want it to be re-usable. Otherwise, if you are using something heat-resistant then you can melt or break the mould once you are done.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/06/09 | 560 | 2,149 | <issue_start>username_0: I changed the filament (PLA) in my Wanhao Duplicator I3+. I ended the first try to print when I saw that the 'lines' were too thin. I re-sliced with a higher temperature (195°C instead of 190°C). Now the print started without a problem but after about 25% no more filament came out of the extruder. What can be the reason and how can I resolve it?
The filament is from Vertex, grey. The object that I use to test is a 20 mm hollow cube from Thingiverse that I have used for the previous filament too.
I am not sure that this is a clogging problem since the print starts with no problems. It just stopped after 25%. When I started another print I was able to finish by increasing the temperature.<issue_comment>username_1: My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. Is it possible that your temp is initially OK, but then drops too low? Does your printer have a readout that shows the current temp? Is the temp still OK when it stops?
It sounds like you are printing a sample cube, so I assume not too large. Could you simulate this by just directly command your printer to extrude 500 mm of filament, or longer? Then see if it clogs. That would tell you if it was a physical problem with your printer instead of some change specified by the G-code for a sliced print.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @username_1. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to 200°C. Now the output became consistent and my print finished. It was not as good as the one that I did with my previous filament. The top was not as neatly closed. Only the last 2 layers covered more or less for 100% the surface (perhaps 200°C is too high for this?).
For me the solution is to higher the temperature to 200°C (or perhaps 205°C).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/06/09 | 772 | 2,562 | <issue_start>username_0: I am the owner of a pretty Anycubic Mega I3 and it was very cool to own it.
However, now I have several problems when printing with it. It clicks all along, at high or low temperature, at 5 mm above the plate, and the result is very disgusting. It is the same with the basic black PLA, or with other PLA from ICE-Filaments but I can't do anything.
I use Cura and I've reset it several times, using the defaults options or not.
Here are two examples of some prints (normal cube):
[example 1](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835338/Snapchat-1209640225.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSqA2.jpg "First example of poorly printed cube")
and [Example 2](https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/380420138920574986/455045425636835340/Snapchat-27434386.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hb1dJ.jpg "Second example of poorly printed cube")<issue_comment>username_1: My slicer (Cura-lulzbot) has a setting for initial printing temp, and then printing temp after the first few layers. Is it possible that your temp is initially OK, but then drops too low? Does your printer have a readout that shows the current temp? Is the temp still OK when it stops?
It sounds like you are printing a sample cube, so I assume not too large. Could you simulate this by just directly command your printer to extrude 500 mm of filament, or longer? Then see if it clogs. That would tell you if it was a physical problem with your printer instead of some change specified by the G-code for a sliced print.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I redid the print in order to reply to some questions posed in the answer of @username_1. The print started but the output was not consistent and sometimes stopped. The temperature is 195°C and sometimes 'drop' to 194°C. First I pushed the new real so that the extruder did not need to pull so much. When this did not solve the problem I changed the temperature to 200°C. Now the output became consistent and my print finished. It was not as good as the one that I did with my previous filament. The top was not as neatly closed. Only the last 2 layers covered more or less for 100% the surface (perhaps 200°C is too high for this?).
For me the solution is to higher the temperature to 200°C (or perhaps 205°C).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/06/11 | 421 | 1,637 | <issue_start>username_0: Just one quick question about the filament.
Can I leave the filament in the extruder for a prolonged period of time while the printer is off?<issue_comment>username_1: Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.
There are some filaments that need to be stored away from moisture, particularly Nylon, because they absorb moisture from the air and don't print well if they contain a lot of absorbed moisture. However, this isn't an inherent issue with having the filaments in the extruder (if you had some setup that protected the filament from moisture while in the extruder, that would be fine as well - but in most cases it is more practical to store such filament in an airtight box).
Most commodity filaments (ABS/PLA/PETG) don't suffer from this as much (PLA supposedly also absorbs moisture but I haven't noticed this to be a problem, perhaps it depends on the conditions of the room in which your printer is kept) so they're fine to leave in the extruder.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you "planing" to leave the filament there for months, then it would be a good idea to store it away, but for most filaments it is not a big deal to be stay loaded... provided that the humidity is not high (e.g. a shower or kitchen next to it would be not so good).
My experiences with "moistured" filament is that they get brittle, but only breaks when I don't print something. And it is a pain in the a\*\* to get out the last part of the filament that broke right at the entrance... so store it away is always a good idea, if you are not too lazy ;)
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/11 | 450 | 1,732 | <issue_start>username_0: I cannot get my extruder to work on my Creality Ender-4 printer. I have heated the nozzle but the extruder does not move.
I tested the motor and cable on another system and they work just fine.
Could it be the board or what could it be?<issue_comment>username_1: Most filaments you can leave in the extruder indefinitely without any ill effects.
There are some filaments that need to be stored away from moisture, particularly Nylon, because they absorb moisture from the air and don't print well if they contain a lot of absorbed moisture. However, this isn't an inherent issue with having the filaments in the extruder (if you had some setup that protected the filament from moisture while in the extruder, that would be fine as well - but in most cases it is more practical to store such filament in an airtight box).
Most commodity filaments (ABS/PLA/PETG) don't suffer from this as much (PLA supposedly also absorbs moisture but I haven't noticed this to be a problem, perhaps it depends on the conditions of the room in which your printer is kept) so they're fine to leave in the extruder.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you "planing" to leave the filament there for months, then it would be a good idea to store it away, but for most filaments it is not a big deal to be stay loaded... provided that the humidity is not high (e.g. a shower or kitchen next to it would be not so good).
My experiences with "moistured" filament is that they get brittle, but only breaks when I don't print something. And it is a pain in the a\*\* to get out the last part of the filament that broke right at the entrance... so store it away is always a good idea, if you are not too lazy ;)
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/11 | 746 | 2,758 | <issue_start>username_0: So as the title said my heated bed stopped heating mid print.
I'm pretty confident the bed itself is not the problem as I've ran continuity tests from the wires and a resistance check (which showed a total resistance of about 1.5 ohms, which is where it should be). I've done voltage checks across the input terminals which showed a successful output of 12 V.
Finally I did a voltage test across the output terminal at D8 where the heated bed should be outputted to. The result came up with nearly 0 V. I then noticed that the LED that usually lights up for D8 was turned off. The weird thing is, I unplugged the wires from D8 and this time the LED lit up like it was supposed to. Due to this, I believe the problem to be with the MOSFET attached to D8.
My proposed solution would be to move the heated bed terminal to D9 instead of D8. I wish to this because despite the firmware set up for a fan, I do not have a fan attached to D9. This leaves this terminal open and with a potentially unharmed MOSFET. Despite this I have found no information on how to go about accomplishing this.
What do you guys think? Is that even a good idea or should the component (or board be replaced)? Any help would be greatly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: you can swap pins in Marlin firmware.
When you download it from GitHub, there is a file called [pins.h](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/pins.h) (please be aware that this file is an example), and you can play with your setup to skip the broken mosfet.
**Sometimes, it could be easier and faster to desolder and swap elements directly on the board - that depends on the skill set we have**
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: First you should check if the bed still works when applying 12V directly. You can then also check the voltage over the 12V output terminals to measure the power supply unit while it is powering the bed. It is unclear whether you measured the voltage of the PSU while it was powering a large load.
It is also a good idea to get the external MOSFET board out of the equation (the less components you have, the less you need to troubleshoot).
From the post can be concluded that you are using the so-called RAMPS EFB setup, e.g. in [Marlin firmware](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/) defined by constant `IS_RAMPS_EFB` in your firmware printer setup (Extruder on pin 10, fan on pin 9 and bed on pin 8).
In the pin configuration file [pins\_RAMPS.h](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h) you can find the following lines:
```
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define HEATER_BED_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
```
To change the pin layout, switch the values of the constants.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/11 | 563 | 2,064 | <issue_start>username_0: Im planning on building an enclosure for my CR-10S and am debating whether to use MDF walls lined with an insulation foam that reduces noise and keeps the heat in or going with double pane glass walls.
My main concern is not necessarily keeping the enclosure hot as it is for noise reduction. Obviously the wood with insulation will give better sounds dampening, but I am wondering if anyone has tried both or at least heard a printer before and after with both and if the glass alone had a significant effect on the sounds reduction.<issue_comment>username_1: you can swap pins in Marlin firmware.
When you download it from GitHub, there is a file called [pins.h](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/pins.h) (please be aware that this file is an example), and you can play with your setup to skip the broken mosfet.
**Sometimes, it could be easier and faster to desolder and swap elements directly on the board - that depends on the skill set we have**
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: First you should check if the bed still works when applying 12V directly. You can then also check the voltage over the 12V output terminals to measure the power supply unit while it is powering the bed. It is unclear whether you measured the voltage of the PSU while it was powering a large load.
It is also a good idea to get the external MOSFET board out of the equation (the less components you have, the less you need to troubleshoot).
From the post can be concluded that you are using the so-called RAMPS EFB setup, e.g. in [Marlin firmware](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/) defined by constant `IS_RAMPS_EFB` in your firmware printer setup (Extruder on pin 10, fan on pin 9 and bed on pin 8).
In the pin configuration file [pins\_RAMPS.h](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h) you can find the following lines:
```
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define HEATER_BED_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
```
To change the pin layout, switch the values of the constants.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/13 | 779 | 3,218 | <issue_start>username_0: If I'm working with standard PLA, and I want to print a box that I can stand on without any risk of it breaking, is there any good way to calculate the appropriate print settings?
I know that structural strength comes from the infill. Knowing this, and knowing the dimensions of the box, the weight of my body, the surface area of my shoes, and the material I'm working with, is there any good way to determine the minimum infill percentage I'd want to use in order to safely bear my weight?<issue_comment>username_1: Strictly speaking, it is difficult to do calculations on these materials, but not impossible (I've heard about a few commercial analysis tools that do that). The FDM process (Fused Deposition Modeling) creates a product based of fused slices of material causing an anisotropic material (this means that the properties of the material are different in different dimensions). Basically, your product will be quite strong and similar in the X and Y directions, but fragile in the Z direction (layering direction). You can imagine that every layer may be a seed for cracks to grow when you're pulling at the part.
When applying a compression load on a product like in your example, the walls need to be strong enough to hold the pressure (not all of the load as, based on the type of infill, the infill also can/should take part of the load!) and need to be of sufficiently high percentage, not only to take part of the load, but also support the walls to prevent buckling. I remember that stress calculations for buckling are difficult and require FEA (Finite Element Analysis) for more complex objects other than bars or beams.
I think it is difficult to determine or calculate the infill percentage based on the compression load beforehand as you do not know the exact material properties and the buckling behavior. You do know that a 100% infill will give you enough strength and support, you could try to print at a lower infill, e.g. 75%, and test if that works for you.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: A fast way to do this is by using SolidWorks.
You can draw the box in it and run a simulation test with the max load expected.
Here is a link on how to make dynamic load simulations work in SolidWorks, [How to apply dynamic load in solidworks simulation ?](https://forum.solidworks.com/thread/72005)
The catch in the process is that SolidWorks takes cubes and most objects as complete solids, i.e. 100% infill in 3D printer terms.
You would have to actually design your infill pattern into the cube so as to get the best and most accurate result.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: I would suggest doing some calibration runs - granted this'll use up a lot of time and filament. But an infill of even 30 to 40%, plus a reasonably thick set of walls and top/bottom layers, should have almost the same strength as a 100% infill. Look at the girders & beams on road bridges, for example. As Oscar wrote, modelling with FEA tools is unreliable, more so because every extrusion printer is a little different.
Try printing a test box, say only 10 by 10 cm, same height, and see if you can stand on that, before printing the full-size item.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/06/13 | 2,912 | 11,381 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Monoprice Maker Select v2. It is the kind where the moving plate (heat bed) provides the Y-axis and the moving extruder provides the X-axis. It has a fairly rigid sheet metal frame. In addition, I added steel rods has Z-braces.
I see some pretty obvious ghosting. This happens for an inch or so right after every sharp turn. Clearly, vibration is to be blamed. I found two simple techniques that improves the situation:
1. soft floor mats under the feet (allowing the machine to move freely)
2. bolt the machine to the desk (preventing the machine from moving)
Surprisingly, these two opposites provided exact same level of improvement for ghosting. My question is: *which approach is better*? Moreover, to further improvement, should I use...
* (extreme version of 1) hanging the printer from the ceiling using bungee cords (maximize the freedom to move); or...
* (extreme version of 2) bolt the printer to garage floor (0 freedom to move) ?<issue_comment>username_1: Personally, I would select the 2nd option.
The forces and vibrations inside printer will propagate over every single part connected. Having that in mind, making rigid external frame is just a part of the solution.
Please consider some extra points:
1. filament spool on the top bar adds vibration to the frame (get a rubber pad to separate hook from the frame - but I will remove it from the printer)
2. steper motors are mechanically noisy as well - get a stepper damper (as a piece of thin rubber between the motor and bracket)
3. moving speed and acceleration also adds a pressure to the construction, so high acceleration and braking need to be reduced (when you put hand on the frame you will fill all those movements (close your eyes))
4. stepper drivers also have an impact on the quality side (circled model skin)
5. you also could add an extra tensioners from top of the frame to the base.
Fixing it to the floor will be a benefit and considering points above will also improve printing quality.
[an alternative lateral frame](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2958034):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oLUwq.png)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: To fix ghosting it doesn't realy matter if the printer is bolted down or flying thru the air. The main point is to get rid of any movement in the printer construction itself.
What I mean: If you bolt down your printer, but all parts wiggle as hell, then you will have ghosting. And if you have a printer with no wiggeling parts, then the printer could theoretical even been moved while printing.
So reduce vibration sources or undock them with dumpers and made the frame stiff as possible.
sure a bold down would provide a reduce in flexibility in the printer, but if that would help also an internal reinforcement will do the job. (Like a extra frame)
For my personal 2 cents: I suggest to use a soft floormat to stop vibrations transfering to the table, because it would be annoying a.f. to stay in the same room if you have a vibrating device that uses the table top as a drum.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Ghosting is very well described in the topic [What causes “ghosting”?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5389/what-causes-ghosting).
>
> Ghosting is an artefact in the print due to the vibrations in the
> printer that are induced by rapid changes of direction
>
>
>
To add to that answer and get on topic of your question and your possible solutions I'd like to say that **neither** of the solutions you provide is correct. What do we know? We know that ghosting depends on the mass of the printer head being accelerated and decelerated. This causes overshoots that are damped out by the construction causing the ripples or ringing effects that die out after a few mm of printing.
If the head is considered to have a mass M1 and the printer mass M2 (where M2 is larger than M1), the following simplified figure can be drawn:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dxo4K.jpg)
Note that the head is without friction (which is not the actual case), when the head is subjected to a force, or suddenly a force acting on mass M1 disappears, the mass M1 wants to travel further; the spring and the damper then come into play causing a dynamic displacement of x1.
If you assume the printer to be bolted to the ground, M2 becomes the mass of the earth (M2 >>> M1) and solely the x1 displacement is taken into account. However, if you hang it freely (M2 > M1) or use rubber damping between the printer and you get a complex vibrating system where mass M1 influences the displacement of mass M2. E.g. M2 is now connected to the earth (or not if freely suspended) with its own damper and spring (or free). If x2 and x1 are in phase the effect may be even stronger than if x2 and x1 are out of phase. This all depends on the values of the spring and damper values and the involved mass weights. Although clamping down seems the best way to go forward, putting the printer on rubber matting or feet may be more comfortable as it reduces the vibrations.
This demonstrates that the displacement of M1 will always exist until you either fix the mass of the head (M1) or the force acting on mass M1 (lowering speed and jerk).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Ghosting is caused by differential movement between the bed and the head when the head undergoes acceleration. The forces add energy to a resonance in that differential vibration mode.
By changing how you mount the base, you will change the mode and probably change the frequency.
With the soft mounting, the bed can move more easily. It will tend to follow the head acceleration better. The whole system will still ring (you can't get rid of the momentum change), but you can cause the energy to go somewhere else and not excite that mode.
With the base bolted down tight, the base gets stiffer, increasing resonant frequencies. You also may be making the base more resistant against racking or twisting motions.
It is completely credible that both interventions reduce the problem. Of the two, I would prefer any intervention that increases the stiffness.
If you know your movement speed (perhaps from your configuration file) and can measure the linear frequency of the ringing, you can determine the resonant frequency that is being excited. Depending on the frequency, you may be able to excite that frequency with an audio generator and transducer (maybe even just a speaker), such as with one of these: [Dayton Audio Transducers](https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-tt25-8-puck-tactile-transducer-mini-bass-shaker-8-ohm--300-386).
With the system shaking at the right frequency, you can use your finger to find portions of the frame which are vibrating strongly, or maybe even your phone camera to make a high-speed video of the movement.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: There are 3 options to reduce ghosting working on different methods.
Basics of motion physics
------------------------
When the machine changes movement direction, it does so with a very short time difference delay between the head and the frame, inducing vibration. Let's assume the head makes just movements back and force around a point $x\_0$ in the mid of the bed with an amplitude of 1. So the positional curve of the print head is $x\_h=x\_0+sin(\omega t)$. The [second derivate](https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=d%C2%B2%2Fdt%C2%B2%20(x_0%2Bsin(%5Comega%20t))) of this is the acceleration $\frac {d^2} {dt^2}{x\_h}=-\omega^2 sin(\omega t)$. The frame though lacks behind, it has a phase shift to this. It's movement is $x\_f=x\_0+sin(\omega t +\tau)$, so its acceleration is $\frac {d^2} {dt^2}{x\_f}=-\omega^2 sin(\omega t +\tau)$. The factor $\tau$ is determined how the printhead is mounted (friction), the weight of the frame (it's inertia) and how stiff it is. It might change depending on the height due to the construction of the frame (changing stiffness).
We'll assume a 1-dimensional printer as it is easier to model, but in praxis, we'd have all three axis to look at to model the printer in its entirety.
Method one: less friction
-------------------------
One way to lessen the factor $\tau$ is to reduce the ability to transfer the motion energy between the print head and the frame. This means to **reduce friction** between the frame and the printhead. So better bearings are one way to do this.
Method two: lighter head/heavier frame
--------------------------------------
Another factor is the inertia differential. If the head has less kinetic energy and/or the frame higher inertia, this reduces the ghosting as with less energy available, the phase shift $\tau$ gets reduced. This is where bolting down the printer acts to some degree: the mass of the printer becomes the mas of the printer plus the part it is bolted to.
Here is where a super lightweight head on lightweight carbon fiber tube rails with Bowden setup (Hypercube design) shines: by having a super low mass, the energy transfer is hindered.
Method three: Stiffening the frame
----------------------------------
The frame has a certain frequency it wants to swing at. To shift this, one can add stiffening rods or different mounting, which also increases the weight. This shifts $\tau$ down some.
Method four: Tuning $\tau$
--------------------------
Just adding mass to the printer and from the printhead or stiffening the machine has its limits. There is however a way to isolate the machine from other systems: put it on spring dampeners. As long as these dampeners are not in resonance to the frame's resonance, the machine itself can be tuned in itself. At this point comes in what you noticed when you put the machine on rubber mats: if the machine has a $sin(\tau)\to 0$, then the factor $\tau$ suddenly gets only little effect on the calculation. By the way, the symmetry makes it easy for us, creating boundries: $\tau \in \{0,2\pi\}$
Best Practice?
--------------
It is often hard to find the best way through calculations alone. Even Engineers use trial and error to look for where to add mass (using for exampele clay and weights) and look at complex measurements how much mass they need to reduce where to change the ring of the machine so the multiple factors in $\tau$ cancel each other out or get the resonance frequency where they want it to be.
For home use, it is often the best to fix it as easy as possible.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I'm missing something here. How about damping the movement of table and head by placing a tuned mass damper on table and head? Something like a mass that is mounted in the top of a skyscraper...
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I got good results by mounting my printer on a concrete paving slab (obviously cleaned and sealed) and placing that on a foam mat. The combination of high mass and flexible mount has substantially reduced ghosting in my prints. Not my idea; I found it on a video on YouTube (linked below). Honestly not sure if this is the best solution from an engineering perspective (I like the idea suggested above of trying to find the resonant frequency) but it's easy, fast and cheap. And as a bonus, it has substantially reduced the noise level of my setup.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/06/13 | 916 | 3,212 | <issue_start>username_0: Simple question: how do you reinsulate the MakerBot Smart Extruders?
Backstory:
I work at the library. We've recently replaced the MakerBot (extruder connection issues followed by software incompatibility) with a Prusa.
As a new hire, I'm obsessed with the 3D printers. I'm trying to make it my mission to get the MakerBot working again, just so we can have two printers running.
It takes quite the request chain to get materials in and I had some plumbing tape on hand, so I tried to wrap it with that, per [this thread](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1247/efficient-and-easy-way-to-thermally-insulate-the-heat-block-of-the-hotend). It's not going too well because of the housing around the Smart Extruder, which I cannot figure out to remove (easily and/or without voiding the warranty and taking it completely apart).
I imagine even with the cotton + Kapton tape, you'd need better access to the hotend than the housing allows.
Any help is appreciated!<issue_comment>username_1: Strictly speaking, you do not require the insulation to be there. It is supposed to keep some of the heat contained in the core to allow more heat to be available for the filament to melt (basically higher print speeds and less chance of burning your fingers :) ).
If I go to the Makerbot website and look at the video [Smart Extruder+ - 3D Printer Extruder - 3D Printer PLA Extruder](https://www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/smart-extruder/?wvideo=8adgspxkmv)
at 1:37, you'll see that the hot end is wrapped in cotton and Kapton tape. Like the stuff that is cheap and easy to buy:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xu5QN.jpg)
and that the casing cover is removable, so you should be able to open it to insert new cotton. Why worry about voiding warranty? You can gain a working printer for a few bucks or bite the bullet and buy a new Makerbot Smart Extruder. I guess if you had warranty you could already have it replaced by now.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I recently wrapped a LOT of hot PLA around my print head and, as a result, had to remove the kapton tape and the fibreglass insulation that came with it.
I was reluctant to use fibreglass because of the tissue embedding hazard and the lung hazard (especially on what is effectively an indoor appliance) and kapton tape is very hard to find in Australia.
After some research, I wrapped the print head in 100% wool felt that I bought from a fabric store (be very careful, as most craft felt nowadays is either acrylic, polyester or a poly/wool blend) and then bound it all up with teflon thread tape (plumber's thread tape).
Cotton has a scorch temperature of 150 to 200°C, while wool won't scorch until 500 to 600°C, and the teflon tape can handle temperatures between 200 to 300°C.
Did it work? Well I can now put my finger on the outside of the tape after the element has been at 200°C for 10 minutes, and only feel a little warmth. The print head heats up twice as fast, and I can run my massively oversized print cooling fan at 40% rather than the 10% I could use before. There is no odor of anything cooking off either. Success!
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/15 | 1,085 | 3,563 | <issue_start>username_0: I have got a problem that after upgrading my printer to an aluminum frame my extruder went from around 400 steps per mm at 16 micro steps (which did match the manufacturer's recommendation perfectly) to a bit over 1000 steps per mm at 16 micro steps.
This is a problem for me, since the limited amount of steps per second lower my maximum retraction speed.
What I tried since the rebuild:
1. Replace and adjust the current of the stepper driver - no change, even with another type of driver on different micro steps, of course with other values, but also about 2.5 times too high;
2. Connecting another motor with another cable - the other motor with nothing attached to it drove the same angle as my extruder stepper.
Could it be that the ATmega2560 on my MKS gen 1.4 board got damaged? Or did I change something in the firmware, which does have this effect?
I am using Marlin 1.8.5 and a E3D Titan 1:3 geared extruder and I am using the same setup as before! E3D claims to have 437 steps per mm on a 200 steps/revolution Nema 17 stepper and 16 micro steps. This value was working perfectly fine before.
### Update:
With an Arduino Nano I measured the amount of steps my board sends at 418.5 steps/mm (programmed in EEPROM and in firmware) on a specific amount of extrusion length
```
G92 E0 -> G1 F100 E30
```
and I got
```
5220 steps for 30mm extrusion (reproducible).
```
It should be
```
418.5 steps/mm*30mm = 12555 steps.
```
Where,
```
(12555/5220) * 418.5 steps/mm = 1007 steps/mm
```
to have the effect of 418.5 steps/mm
...which is, oddly, the exact number that I got by marking filament, extruding, measuring and calculating.<issue_comment>username_1: After a rebuild, and certainly after changing to another extruder (e.g. replacing it by a geared extruder like you supposedly did as taken from the comments above before the edit, which now clearly is not the case) or setup e.g. other stepper drivers, you should always calibrate the extruder.
To calibrate you e.g. disconnect the hot end nozzle and command to extrude 100 mm. Be sure to make marks and measure the extruded distance. Divide the latter value by 100 to divide this result by the steps per mm value in the configuration file. So, if you measured 102 mm and commanded 100 for 400 steps, the new would be 400/(102/100) = 392. There is a lot to find on this matter on the internet. All can be done with G-codes that can be entered through a terminal connected over the USB port. E.g. applications as Pronterface, Repetier-Host, OctoPrint, etc. all have a terminal interface to the printer if connected over USB.
You could find more detailed instructions e.g. [here](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder), or this [video](https://www.google.no/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=%23&ved=0ahUKEwjsuYaexNXbAhWxx6YKHXtTADIQwqsBCEYwBQ&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Ok, thanks everyone for at least taking time to read or thinking about this.
The Problem is an absolute mess and there are two possible reasons:
-> the octoprint eeprom editor is broken
-> the ATMega2560's eeprom is broken. as far as i know companies buy used atmegas to cheapen the price and the >100k writes on my chip has been reached
I will try to figure out the exact problem, if i find time in the next days.
My current setup is just deactivate eeprom and i'm good to go. Even wiping eeprom with a small arduino sketch will get the error to return.
Now i will be able to sleep again :D
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/17 | 566 | 2,270 | <issue_start>username_0: My Zortrax M200 has a skipping extruder motor, I’ve checked the seating of all connections and 3 different (electronic ribbon) cables and still can’t fix the issue. The gear is clean and have tried fresh filament.
* Does anyone have any possible thoughts on why this happens?
The extruded motor will move in the desired direction and then skip back.
Loading the filament is fine. Tried new nozzles, blockages checked, etc.<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Check the pins on the motor. Are they bent? If yes - straighten them out with a screw driver.
2. This could be a stepper driver problem. If it is then bad luck. Zortrax hard solders their stepper drivers onto their control board (this sucks and is a pure monetization related move by them).
This results in you having to get a whole new set of connector cables and or new control boards every time something goes wrong.
Ask for a control board replacement with new connector cables, if your machine is still under warranty it should be free of charge.
Switch to different or cheaper machines like Wanhaos or Ultimakers if you want the same ease of use and cheap part replacement.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Every time I've had an extruder "skip", it was actually because some condition was causing excessive back-pressure. Either the hot end isn't hot enough, the nozzle is too close to the bed, or something has clogged the nozzle.
If there is a "skipping" noise, then this is almost certainly the problem. When a stepper can not advance, the magnetic field will continue to "step". After the rotor is behind the steps by 180 degrees of field phase (which might be only a fraction of a degree os stepper motor shaft rotation), the rotor will snap back to re-align with the magnetic field. The sudden movement of the rotor and the release of compression on the filament often makes a loud clicking or thumping noise. If you can see the gear, it will jump backward and then rotate slowly forward before jumping backward again.
To see if it is the drivers, try extruding with no filament, or if you can, try moving filament through the extruder. If it doesn't move at all, or doesn't move under light drag, it may be the driver, the wiring, or perhaps the motor.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/06/17 | 971 | 3,889 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a question about Slic3r software.
I would like to subtract two parts. For example, I have an STL model, when I right click on the part, I can select **Settings...**, and in the **Settings** window, I can select modifier and I can select slab.with selecting proper thickness. Now we have two parts where one of them is inside of another. My problem is subtracting those two parts.
How can I subtract this part from another?<issue_comment>username_1: Given my limited familiarity with all the CAD tools that exist, I would fall back to something that I know does binary operations on volumes -- openScad.
One can create two objects, one from each of the two STL files, and subtract one from the other. One can also compute intersections, unions, and other operations.
There are probably other programs that also do this, but openScad allows for doing in programmatically, so that once you have it right, you can update the objects without needing to redo the finicky part of the operations.
slic3r may do this, but I haven't seen such features in my multi-year use of slic3r for slicing.
When in doubt, IMO it is better to script something. It is virtually never that I do something only once, especially in 3D printing where rapid prototype leads to rapid change and improvement.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I am assuming your trying to perforate, hollow or cut your design in a specific shape that is the same as the inner 3D object or vice versa?
Do this with 3Ds max its just really easy there for such operations.
Please load into Autodesk 3Ds max and perform Boolean.
This is the link on how to use the Boolean tool, [Boolean Compound Object](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/3ds-max/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2017/ENU/3DSMax/files/GUID-3DBEB7C2-43CC-4B78-9463-5DD448FD921C-htm.html)
There are other software like magics where this can be done but as you seem to be trying this for the first time. I will suggest only 3Ds max.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Don't try to do it in the slicing program, instead create a new STL that is the difference. The slicing program shouldn't be used to modify STLs.
Plus, this is a pretty quick and easy thing to do. You can do a difference operation using OpenSCAD (as mentioned above) or atomiccompiler.com if you don't want to install new software just for one operation.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: If the objects are manifold and has no issues, Blender can perform boolean operations. I would prefer blender over OpenSCAD as OpenSCAD crashes (at least for me) if there are issues with the mesh; over 3DMax because it is free, fast, and smaller to download and works in my choice of operating system.
Import STL files by File, Import, STL. If that option is not enabled: File, User Preferences, Add-ons, search for STL and enable that option.
Simply select the main object with right click, on the right panel find modifiers with wrench icon, click add modifier and select the operation (difference) and the other object. If the result is not satisfying, try Carve in the solver options. If there are problems in the result it is generally because of issues with the STL files. Use a tool fix those issues and try again.
Once you are happy with the result, you can export by selecting your object, going into File, export, STL and select Selected only option so that the negative object will not be merged with the carved result while exporting.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Meshmixer will perform boolean operations between two STL objects faster than OpenSCAD.
Import the primary .stl, append the second .stl: the one you want to take away from the primary. In the Object Browser window select the primary and then hold the Ctrl key down and left click on the second, a window pops up giving you a boolean difference option.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/06/20 | 1,195 | 4,166 | <issue_start>username_0: I have just assembled the Creality3D Ender-4 kit a couple of days ago.
I completed some rewiring and everything seems to be wired correctly, I'm able to auto-home successfully, but this is the problem I'm having:
I tried printing a [calibration cube](https://makerware.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865).
The first problem I noticed is that the printing is starting on one corner instead of the center as specified on the Printer Settings in CURA (check settings below).
Second problem is that I'm getting significant distortion. The movement of the printer seems to be fine, no jerks of weird sounds. I tried all I know but I honestly don't know how to proceed with this. I have a couple of hours of experience in 3D Printing so I'm completely lost.
This is the result I got (Model printed with Raft for adhesion):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qXkCz.png "Model printed with Raft for adhesion")
These are my CURA settings:
**Printer**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaqvA.png "CURA settings - Printer")
**Extruder**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SfRst.png "CURA settings - Extruder")<issue_comment>username_1: The **first problem** is solved by removing the tick mark at `Origin at center`. Most printers have their origin at a corner (not Delta's, their origin is in the top center).
The **second problem** is a little more difficult to solve. Please note that a kit should be loaded with preset values that should be fair enough to print, your picture does not appear to print the calibration cube correctly, so you should try to **eliminate each possibility one at a time**. As said, your picture is not very clear, but it does not appear to be a cube, it looks more rectangular (also note that a raft is only interesting when printing difficult, read prone to warping, filaments like ABS).
What you could do is print simple squares (no raft, but use a brim or skirt), e.g. 50 x 50 mm (only 1 or 2 walls in width and a few layers high), and measure the printed size.
* If these squares do not stick to the heated bed, calibrate the Z height to nozzle distance and re-level the bed or increase the heated bed temperature;
* If the X and Y sizes are different, you should calibrate the steps per mm for the direction that differs ([M92](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit) is the G-code to set the steps per mm; [M500](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M500:_Store_parameters_in_non-volatile_storage) to store the value to memory; these codes can be given over USB using specific programs that interface through a command line interface e.g. Pronterface, Repetier-Host or OctoPrintor alternatively in a `.gcode` file and loaded through the printer user interface);
* If extrusion does look weird, measure the filament width at various sections of the filament with a vernier caliper and calibrate the extruder stepper and set the correct amount of steps per mm;
* Finally, print the 20 x 20 x 20 mm cube and measure the height and adjust the steps per mm for the Z direction.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Fix was actually pretty simple.
I just removed the printer that I had setup on CURA following the manual provided by Creality (found on the provided SD Card) and started from scratch.
The one that worked was actually setting up the printer as a [Creality CR-10](https://www.inky.mx/MPRESORA-CREALITY-CR-10-,728_1513022174?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6p6pnq_v2wIVQh1pCh3FyQntEAQYBCABEgJ1hPD_BwE) and then just changing the XYZ dimensions. This setup has the *Origin at Center* option unchecked as suggested in the comments. That's all it took...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nt1io.png)
**New results:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G8SIH.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/24 | 3,327 | 10,166 | <issue_start>username_0: I finished the mount of my Anet A8, tested everything and apparently it was ok. I installed the driver that came with it, `CH341SER_MAC`, turned on the printer, connect USB cable, but nothing happened.
In Cura, I tried to add a printer many times and this message always appears
>
> The printer isn't connected.
>
>
>
In OSX, I discover in System Information, an **USB2.0-Serial**, that I think can be the printer. Is it a printer driver problem? Is it the Cura setting? I'm completely lost...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyfZ6.png "OSX System Information - USB")<issue_comment>username_1: There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. To use this cheap CH340 chip that is used by a number of Arduino compatible (clone) boards to provide USB connectivity (a USB bus converter chip that converts USB bus signals to serial interface) you need to install a correct working driver.
For Mac OS X you can try to download a working version for the OS system you are using. You can try to use [this driver installer](https://blog.sengotta.net/signed-mac-os-driver-for-winchiphead-ch340-serial-bridge/) or [this driver installer](https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver). Both reported to work with Mac OS.
---
**Edit**: If you are using OSX El Capitan, please read [this](https://www.kiwi-electronics.nl/blog?journal_blog_post_id=7&lang=en). To get the CH340 drivers to work you need to use the tool **csrutil**.
>
> * Reboot and press CMD+R immediately after hearing the startup sound to boot to Recovery Mode
> * Open Terminal
> * Execute the following command: `csrutil enable --without kext`
> * Reboot
>
>
>
More information is found [here](https://tzapu.com/making-ch340-ch341-serial-adapters-work-under-el-capitan-os-x/)!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: *You are using OSX El Capitan. The version of OSX is **particularly** relevant w.r.t. the CH340 drivers. A driver that works on one OSX version, **will not necessarily work** with a different version of OSX - even minor version changes of OSX can be affected (as the answers to [Problem with serial driver for CH340G board](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/19059/problem-with-serial-driver-for-ch340g-board) demonstrate.*
---
### Important Note
Before installing *any* new drivers, it is always worth backing up the original file, just to avoid any unpleasantness later. For example:
```
sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.old
```
---
I seem to remember having the same issue, not with a 3D printer, but just with a cloned Arduino board. I thought that I had written a lengthy blog about it but can't locate it at the moment (I will update this answer when I find it)1.
The CH34x ICs are infamous for their poor support on OSX. On Windows they generally fare a little better, and TBH it is probably well worth considering a WinTel option just to save yourself time, frustration and headaches...
Nevertheless, I think that I found this site to be useful, [How To Use Cheap Chinese Arduinos That Come With With CH340G / CH341G Serial/USB Chip (Windows & Mac OS-X)](https://kig.re/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html).
See also [Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/71/compatibility-between-arduino-and-arduino-clones/13414#13414):
>
> The most annoying issue, and even then it is quite minor, is that a lot of Chinese clones do not use an ATMega for the USB and instead use a CH340G. These chips, while fine when connecting to a PC running Windows 7, have great difficulties with the drivers on OS X, and end up just not being recognised. It is possible [to find a driver for the CH340G](https://kig.re/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html), but when I installed it, it immediately crashed the MacBook, upon plugging in the cloned UNO..!
>
>
>
This advice also proved to be invaluable, from [Post #47 - Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues](https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.msg2151505#msg2151505)
>
> For any others who haven't been able to solve this one yet: if, like
> me, you decided to go with the cheaper chinese kick off arduino clone
> boards and had problems similar to this one, please check the
> following forum post, as it solved the problem for me:
>
>
> <http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=289518.0>
>
>
> And another blog site that explains the whole process really simply
> for noobs like me:
>
>
> <http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html>
>
>
> Actually the dude has even mirrored the relevant driver that solves
> the problem without having to find it on an all chinese or all russian
> website!
>
>
>
---
Finally, I have just had a problem with an Arduino Nano and my Mac (running Mountain Lion). Using this link, [Connect Arduino Nano with Mac OSX](https://medium.com/@thuc/connect-arduino-nano-with-mac-osx-f922a46c0a5d):
>
> 1. Download the driver from [url](https://github.com/ledongthuc/example/blob/master/file/CH34x_Install_V1.3.zip): link
> 2. Extract and install file `CH34x_Install.pkg`
> 3. Run the command: `sudo nvram boot-args="kext-dev-mode=1"`
> 4. Restart the Mac.
> 5. Replace the text `-P{serial.port}` to `"-P{serial.port}"` in 2 files:
> `/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/platform.txt` (1 instance)
> `/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/programmers.txt` (4 instances)
>
>
>
However, this did not work for me, but I am running OS X 10.8.5 and the driver is meant for 10.9 (according to the `ReadMe.pdf`). My `/System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext` file remained unchanged (i.e. the date did not change), so maybe the installer will not work for 10.8.5.
I tried the second of username_1's suggestions, but this didn't work for me either (on **Mountain Lion**): [adrianmihalko/CH340G CH34G CH34X Mac OS X driver](https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver) - The `usb.kext` file was never installed in `/System/Library/Extensions/` by either the 1.3 or 1.4 versions.
The first of username_1's links, [Signed Mac OS Driver for Winchiphead CH340 serial bridge](https://blog.sengotta.net/signed-mac-os-driver-for-winchiphead-ch340-serial-bridge/), interestingly pointed out that, *after* installation (and the associated reboot), one may have to copy the `usbserial.ktext` file manaually to /System/Library/Extensions/`. So after locating the installed file I did the following:
```
sudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext
```
and then rebooted once again.
Note the change of the filename - this may or may not be necessary. Either way, when I used both `usbserial.kext` and `usb.kext`, *yet again*, this did not help me on Mountain Lion. However, the documents do state that this particular driver is for 10.9 (Mavericks) through to 10.13 (High Sierra).
[The answer](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/53139/uploading-to-a-ch340-nano-board-using-a-mac-with-osx-high-sierra#answer-53611) to this question, [Uploading to a CH340 “Nano” board using a Mac with Osx High Sierra](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/53139/uploading-to-a-ch340-nano-board-using-a-mac-with-osx-high-sierra), may help you on **OSX High Sierra**.
It might be worth trawling through this list of questions on the Arduino.SE site: [`osx nano`](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/search?q=osx%20nano), such as this one [Rename device name (ch340 usb to serial) Mac OS](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/3700/rename-device-name-ch340-usb-to-serial-mac-os/13344).
---
### Additional note
Another pitfall is that some drivers may be named `CH341xx.xxx`, but they may work for both the CH340 *and* the CH340... then again, they may not. The docs don't always say whether they will or not work for both ICs.
---
### Footnotes
1 I think it might be this [Re: Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues](https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.msg2151553#msg2151553):
>
> Yes, I have been struggling for a month or so, and finally realised
> (after reading
> <http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.15#msg1720630>) that
> other chips were being used, in lieu of the FTDI chip, for example the
> Prolific 2305. After inspecting the board with a magnifying glass, I
> saw that I did not have an FTDI chip in my Chinese clones of an Uno
> and a Mega, but a CH340G instead.
>
>
> Once I realised that I found the <http://wch.cn/product/CH340.html>
> site, but the Mac driver doesn't appear to be there. After a bit more
> googling I found [the kiguino site](http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html). I downloaded the mirrored driver,
> rebooted the mac, and when I connected the Uno, my MacBook died and
> restarted with the grey serious error screen and refused to boot.
> After disconnecting the Uno, the Mac rebooted as normal, so no lasting
> damage done, but I am a bit wary of trying to plug the clone in again.
>
>
> Anyway, note that the chip says CH340 on it, but the drivers are
> CH341. I assume that they are compatible.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: What Cura version do you have?
Cura only works with the Anet A8 via USB on versions 2.3 and lower according to this [page](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/forums/general/topic:12212). The page is from thingiverse(A 3d printing forum + print files page)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: The problem is not in drivers! In the file located at Ultimate Cura -> Contents/Resources/USBPrinting/AutoDetectBaudJob.py in line 74 in the if statement you should replace `and` with `or`:
```
if b"ok" in line or b"T:" in line: # or instead of and
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/25 | 3,613 | 10,920 | <issue_start>username_0: I purchased two DQ542MA drivers in order to run two NEMA 17 steppers. After about five days of use I noticed that the green indicator light had gone out on both drivers.
The DQ542MA driver running my NEMA 23 High Torque stepper was still running and it has been connected to that stepper for five months now. Using an Ohm meter to check I found that the [10amp 125v](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0451010MRL?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxU2g%2F1juGqdRmCQF0%252bT4VCAcmqQZMjh4%3D) LittleFuse connected to the power pins had blown on both drivers connected to the NEMA 17 steppers cutting off the power.
I decided to test the still working driver by disconnecting it from the NEMA 23 stepper and corresponding pins on the motherboard and connecting and resetting it to work with one of the NEMA 17 steppers. The minute I turned my printer back on, the still working stepper (now attached to the NEMA 17 stepper) immediately blew the same fuse. I don't understand why the NEMA 17 steppers blew the fuses of the drivers, seeing as how both are properly set to a RMS of 1.69 and a pulse/rev of 400, and both are connected to a 24v PSU.
**My question is:** "When I fix the drivers should I solder in a [15amp 125v](https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0476015MRSN?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtxU2g%2F1juGqTi%252bNtKN7qu4p8sgPytjpHvp9IQs9yJn3A%3D%3D) LittleFuse to better help the power flow and prevent any further blown fuses?"<issue_comment>username_1: There are a lot of problems with the CH340 chipset drivers to be found on 3D SE and various forums on the internet. To use this cheap CH340 chip that is used by a number of Arduino compatible (clone) boards to provide USB connectivity (a USB bus converter chip that converts USB bus signals to serial interface) you need to install a correct working driver.
For Mac OS X you can try to download a working version for the OS system you are using. You can try to use [this driver installer](https://blog.sengotta.net/signed-mac-os-driver-for-winchiphead-ch340-serial-bridge/) or [this driver installer](https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver). Both reported to work with Mac OS.
---
**Edit**: If you are using OSX El Capitan, please read [this](https://www.kiwi-electronics.nl/blog?journal_blog_post_id=7&lang=en). To get the CH340 drivers to work you need to use the tool **csrutil**.
>
> * Reboot and press CMD+R immediately after hearing the startup sound to boot to Recovery Mode
> * Open Terminal
> * Execute the following command: `csrutil enable --without kext`
> * Reboot
>
>
>
More information is found [here](https://tzapu.com/making-ch340-ch341-serial-adapters-work-under-el-capitan-os-x/)!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: *You are using OSX El Capitan. The version of OSX is **particularly** relevant w.r.t. the CH340 drivers. A driver that works on one OSX version, **will not necessarily work** with a different version of OSX - even minor version changes of OSX can be affected (as the answers to [Problem with serial driver for CH340G board](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/19059/problem-with-serial-driver-for-ch340g-board) demonstrate.*
---
### Important Note
Before installing *any* new drivers, it is always worth backing up the original file, just to avoid any unpleasantness later. For example:
```
sudo mv /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext.old
```
---
I seem to remember having the same issue, not with a 3D printer, but just with a cloned Arduino board. I thought that I had written a lengthy blog about it but can't locate it at the moment (I will update this answer when I find it)1.
The CH34x ICs are infamous for their poor support on OSX. On Windows they generally fare a little better, and TBH it is probably well worth considering a WinTel option just to save yourself time, frustration and headaches...
Nevertheless, I think that I found this site to be useful, [How To Use Cheap Chinese Arduinos That Come With With CH340G / CH341G Serial/USB Chip (Windows & Mac OS-X)](https://kig.re/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html).
See also [Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/71/compatibility-between-arduino-and-arduino-clones/13414#13414):
>
> The most annoying issue, and even then it is quite minor, is that a lot of Chinese clones do not use an ATMega for the USB and instead use a CH340G. These chips, while fine when connecting to a PC running Windows 7, have great difficulties with the drivers on OS X, and end up just not being recognised. It is possible [to find a driver for the CH340G](https://kig.re/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html), but when I installed it, it immediately crashed the MacBook, upon plugging in the cloned UNO..!
>
>
>
This advice also proved to be invaluable, from [Post #47 - Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues](https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.msg2151505#msg2151505)
>
> For any others who haven't been able to solve this one yet: if, like
> me, you decided to go with the cheaper chinese kick off arduino clone
> boards and had problems similar to this one, please check the
> following forum post, as it solved the problem for me:
>
>
> <http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=289518.0>
>
>
> And another blog site that explains the whole process really simply
> for noobs like me:
>
>
> <http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html>
>
>
> Actually the dude has even mirrored the relevant driver that solves
> the problem without having to find it on an all chinese or all russian
> website!
>
>
>
---
Finally, I have just had a problem with an Arduino Nano and my Mac (running Mountain Lion). Using this link, [Connect Arduino Nano with Mac OSX](https://medium.com/@thuc/connect-arduino-nano-with-mac-osx-f922a46c0a5d):
>
> 1. Download the driver from [url](https://github.com/ledongthuc/example/blob/master/file/CH34x_Install_V1.3.zip): link
> 2. Extract and install file `CH34x_Install.pkg`
> 3. Run the command: `sudo nvram boot-args="kext-dev-mode=1"`
> 4. Restart the Mac.
> 5. Replace the text `-P{serial.port}` to `"-P{serial.port}"` in 2 files:
> `/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/platform.txt` (1 instance)
> `/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/programmers.txt` (4 instances)
>
>
>
However, this did not work for me, but I am running OS X 10.8.5 and the driver is meant for 10.9 (according to the `ReadMe.pdf`). My `/System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext` file remained unchanged (i.e. the date did not change), so maybe the installer will not work for 10.8.5.
I tried the second of username_1's suggestions, but this didn't work for me either (on **Mountain Lion**): [adrianmihalko/CH340G CH34G CH34X Mac OS X driver](https://github.com/adrianmihalko/ch340g-ch34g-ch34x-mac-os-x-driver) - The `usb.kext` file was never installed in `/System/Library/Extensions/` by either the 1.3 or 1.4 versions.
The first of username_1's links, [Signed Mac OS Driver for Winchiphead CH340 serial bridge](https://blog.sengotta.net/signed-mac-os-driver-for-winchiphead-ch340-serial-bridge/), interestingly pointed out that, *after* installation (and the associated reboot), one may have to copy the `usbserial.ktext` file manaually to /System/Library/Extensions/`. So after locating the installed file I did the following:
```
sudo mv /Library/Extensions/usbserial.kext /System/Library/Extensions/usb.kext
```
and then rebooted once again.
Note the change of the filename - this may or may not be necessary. Either way, when I used both `usbserial.kext` and `usb.kext`, *yet again*, this did not help me on Mountain Lion. However, the documents do state that this particular driver is for 10.9 (Mavericks) through to 10.13 (High Sierra).
[The answer](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/53139/uploading-to-a-ch340-nano-board-using-a-mac-with-osx-high-sierra#answer-53611) to this question, [Uploading to a CH340 “Nano” board using a Mac with Osx High Sierra](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/53139/uploading-to-a-ch340-nano-board-using-a-mac-with-osx-high-sierra), may help you on **OSX High Sierra**.
It might be worth trawling through this list of questions on the Arduino.SE site: [`osx nano`](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/search?q=osx%20nano), such as this one [Rename device name (ch340 usb to serial) Mac OS](https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/3700/rename-device-name-ch340-usb-to-serial-mac-os/13344).
---
### Additional note
Another pitfall is that some drivers may be named `CH341xx.xxx`, but they may work for both the CH340 *and* the CH340... then again, they may not. The docs don't always say whether they will or not work for both ICs.
---
### Footnotes
1 I think it might be this [Re: Arduino in OS X 10.9 Mavericks - Serial Port Issues](https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.msg2151553#msg2151553):
>
> Yes, I have been struggling for a month or so, and finally realised
> (after reading
> <http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=198539.15#msg1720630>) that
> other chips were being used, in lieu of the FTDI chip, for example the
> Prolific 2305. After inspecting the board with a magnifying glass, I
> saw that I did not have an FTDI chip in my Chinese clones of an Uno
> and a Mega, but a CH340G instead.
>
>
> Once I realised that I found the <http://wch.cn/product/CH340.html>
> site, but the Mac driver doesn't appear to be there. After a bit more
> googling I found [the kiguino site](http://kiguino.moos.io/2014/12/31/how-to-use-arduino-nano-mini-pro-with-CH340G-on-mac-osx-yosemite.html). I downloaded the mirrored driver,
> rebooted the mac, and when I connected the Uno, my MacBook died and
> restarted with the grey serious error screen and refused to boot.
> After disconnecting the Uno, the Mac rebooted as normal, so no lasting
> damage done, but I am a bit wary of trying to plug the clone in again.
>
>
> Anyway, note that the chip says CH340 on it, but the drivers are
> CH341. I assume that they are compatible.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: What Cura version do you have?
Cura only works with the Anet A8 via USB on versions 2.3 and lower according to this [page](https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a8-prusa-i3/forums/general/topic:12212). The page is from thingiverse(A 3d printing forum + print files page)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: The problem is not in drivers! In the file located at Ultimate Cura -> Contents/Resources/USBPrinting/AutoDetectBaudJob.py in line 74 in the if statement you should replace `and` with `or`:
```
if b"ok" in line or b"T:" in line: # or instead of and
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/26 | 3,000 | 11,194 | <issue_start>username_0: ***Note***: Before any negative flagging, we asked permission on Meta prior to posting & got a YES: **[Could this Printing Material Recommendation Question be or shaped to be valid on 3D SE?](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/281/could-this-printing-material-recommendation-question-be-or-shaped-to-be-valid-on/283#283)**
---
Which common 3D printing materials/methods will suitably replicate (with durability) this injection molded Polypropylene item?
**Item to replicate via 3D Printing:**
[Club Handle](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DfX58.jpg) - 5/6 image album (a few images are attached below as well)
**Physics, Mechanics & Forces in play on object:**
Usage Intent is not to create an Impact or Hit but to **Flow in Circular motion** like this: [YouTube - 10 Best Indian Club Exercises](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIEOWh87ahY)
* Item with **PCO 28 PET Threading**
* 20 cm Length - Avg. 28 mm Diameter
Instead of me trying to figure out materials, I seek advice from experienced experts here.
Please advise and suggest on materials:
* Ideal top 3 materials recommended/ most suitable for this item?
* Other top 3 materials that are easier to get through "Entities" on 3dHubs?
* **Add Thought:** *Is "negative" printing is the way to go (Sculpting, lathe, threading, CNC types)?*
**Note:** The immediate answer people gave was to use **PP printing**, however I am looking for alternatives because PP printing is **not common or easy to find nearby** and **expensive**.
---
**Self Homework:**
So I looked through these **material guides** which show **different attributes** and **ratings** for various **parameters**:
* Print-ability
* Strength
* Stiffness
* Durability
* Price
For example, Polypropylene - [Simplify3D - Polypropylene](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/polypropylene/)
*Polypropylene is great for high-cycle, low strength applications due to its fatigue resistance, semi-flexible, and lightweight characteristics.*
**Entire Material Lists looked at:**
* [Simplify3D - Ultimate 3D Printing Materials Guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/)
* [Tinkercad - 3D Printing Materials Guide](https://blog.tinkercad.com/materialsguide/)
* [All3DP - 2018 3D Printing Materials Guide](https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-materials-guide-3d-printer-material/)
* [3DPrinting.com - 3D Printer Materials Guide](https://3dprinting.com/materials/)
* [Shapeways - Materials for every stage of any project](https://www.shapeways.com/materials)
---
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqbz5.jpg "Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 1")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6ZtT.jpg "Injection molded Polypropylene item - image 2")<issue_comment>username_1: No FDM print at all.
--------------------
The problem of your design will not be the materials, but a basic property of FDM printing: FDM Printers do create a structure by placing a long string of filament next to itself and ontop of itself, creating tons of boudaries.
These boundaries between the layers are the weak points for this application: Even if the material like ABS could withstand the blow handled with such a club, the print will break at its weakest point - which in this case is any layer boundary. This is amplyfied by the basic design we have here: The elongated shape will serve as a lever on each of the weak boundries, until one gives way and results in catastrophic failure and a flying clubhead.
Non-FDM for the rescue.
=======================
To counteract this, you need to use a different method than FDM printing to get a more homogenous material than the bound deposited filament. Such methods could be for example SLA (Stereolithography) or SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). Both could easily offer even tiny details.
SLS uses Nylon or metal powders, sometimes even ceramics - Tungstencarbide for example.
### SLA/Resin
Using a Resin printer using the SLA methods results in an object almost as homogenous as an injecion molded object. Proper aftercare and curing is required to get the best results. Also, Resin prints usually age under UV light, which can negatively impact lifetime. SLA printers are expensive (for home printers), print shops that offer them relatively rare and costly (in comparison to FDM) but usually offer superb resolution and almost perfect smoothness. A lot of the exact material properties is resin and aftercare dependant.
A way around the aging could be that the results of an SLA print could be used to create green-sand molds countless times, which can be used for casting metal or even some thermoplastics. Remember though, that cooling metal shrinks.
### SLS Nylon
Nylon would be a medium rigid, light solution, but it ages and has a quite rough surface. It does offer some flex, almost perfect for this application. While most SLS machines for nylon are commercial to industrial, print technology of this kind is widespread enough to make them somewhat affordable (for an industrial printer) and printshops for these relatively common, prints are not cheap but well priced.
### DMLS / SLM
Direct Metal Laser Sintering and Selective Laser Melting - an evolution of SLS - allows to create structures from various metals by sintering/melting powders of metal at the right spot to gain shape. The benefit would be, that you get a part that could withstand much more destructive testing than your bottle used as a clubhead - you get a workpiece of solid metal (Steel, aluminium, Titanium and a lot others are available) after all that has the same properties as a cast item. The big downside is, that only few companies currently delve into DMLS, among them the former patent holder of many of the FDM printing patents, [Stratasys](https://www.stratasysdirect.com/technologies/direct-metal-laser-sintering). This means, that a machine for this is industrial rated and priced, and that print suppliers charge accordingly.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: ***If you want a 3D printing answer then***
I see that the part has a few major points of concern to me:
1. Threads (Gosh I hate threads).
2. Tolerance - +/- 0.1 mm-0.2 mm should work fine (in terms of those threads fitting on the top of the bottle)
3. Strength - This needs to be strong, so as to be able to effectively not break when spinning around.
In terms of tech your best option is - SLS
Layer resolution - 0.120 mm
For material options (In descending order of choice)
1. ***PA 11*** - Impact resistance is the major property for these parts. This is the material for your application .
Here is the material data sheet - [EOS PA 1102 Black](https://www.3dhubs.com/material/eos-pa-1102-black).
2. ***Glass filled PA-12*** (I'll be taking this as second option) it has the strength but is extremely brittle . Material Data sheet - [EOS PA 3200 GF](https://www.3dhubs.com/material/eos-pa-3200-gf).
3. ***DuraForm ProX HST Composite*** (The expensive option) Yeah this will work. Check out the data sheet [3D Systems DuraForm ProX HST Composite](https://www.3dhubs.com/material/3d-systems-duraform-prox-hst-composite)
***Now the Non 3D printing solution***
So, to manufacture this design any other way is actually very simple but the threads are a serious area of concern.
1. The body section can be cut on a standard 3 axis CNC.
For material options please choose a no brainer like ***polycarbonate or delrin***. Find information here: [Plastic
CNC machining](https://www.3dhubs.com/cnc-machining/plastic).
2. Threads would have to be manually lathe machined onto it. (You need some beautiful hand work here). This might not be feasible by suppliers on 3dhubs.
Now my argument is to go for Additive manufacturing over CNC as you get the part straight out of the machine with the threads and material strength innate.
You can even make the part hollow using some design skills. This will make it lighter.
It would be very nice if you could get your 3D file ready so as to start this whole process and actually go about to manufacture it.
I can add more details if you want to. Just comment and ask.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I do think that FDM is possible for this item.
----------------------------------------------
Polyamide (nylon) would be my first choice for this, as it has great interlayer strength and it is very impact resistant and durable. Its failure mode will be permanent bending and stretching rather than cracks or a clean break like common FDM plastics like PLA and ABS.
I also needed a filament to simulate PP for FDM use recently, and found that [Polymaker's nylon co-polymer CoPa](http://www.polymaker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/PolyMide%E2%84%A2-CoPA_TDS_V3-1.pdf "Polymaker CoPa") in its conditioned state closely matches PP in its properties. Conditioned means that it has absorbed moisture which softens polyamide.
Regular nylon for 3d printing should have similar properties to CoPa, if a bit softer than PP in my experience.
However material is only secondary to geometry
----------------------------------------------
I believe that in general the actual 3d model and its geometry is more important than the material itself. Indeed this item could be made using regular brittle PLA if the design is good, but it might be heavy or bulky. Thus choosing a better suited material is often a trade between weight, dimensions, and cost. Printing with PLA using very high infill might work, but would take too long and be too heavy compared to nylon, as an example.
This also means that the design of the part would inform the choice of the printing method to be used. Using FDM printing the Z-axis is a lot weaker than X-Y. But other methods are not completely isotropic either - they still have layers that can introduce stress risers and weaker bonding, but they are much less prominent than in FDM. Changing the design can enable you to choose a cheaper process.
Two important principles for designing for 3d printing to be considered before doing a final selection of material are:
* Increasing the dimensions/wall thickness in weak or highly loaded
areas.
* Design with printing orientation in mind. Choose a proper orientation for the load the item will experience.
To exemplify for your particular case:
Increase the thickness of the handle around the connection to the bottle.
Lay it down with the long axis in the X-Y plane which will increase the strength tremendously, perhaps enabling it to be printed in PLA, ABS or PETG. Either split it in half and glue/screw it together, or use supports. You may need to print the threads upright as a separate part that is mated to the handle in the assembly process.
Finally, I would like to encourage you to embrace the main benefit of "rapid prototyping" - its speed and low cost to try things out. Make a first prototype and test it to destruction before settling on the design and material selection.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/06/29 | 2,305 | 9,005 | <issue_start>username_0: I just re-ran all basic calibration steps from the Original Prusa i3 MK2 Manual.
Now, when doing the first layer calibration, lines that are running in positive X direction are ok, while those running in negative X direction are severely squished.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5zzEl.jpg)
*(The "waviness" of my print bed is an artifact of the camera lens distortion of my smartphone)*
I already did Bed level correction, so each line is exactly the same width over its entire distance and tried to raise the live-adjust Z, but that leads to the thin lines not adhering at all. My printer is 100% stock, I modified nothing about it.
What can I do to troubleshoot this further?<issue_comment>username_1: No FDM print at all.
--------------------
The problem of your design will not be the materials, but a basic property of FDM printing: FDM Printers do create a structure by placing a long string of filament next to itself and ontop of itself, creating tons of boudaries.
These boundaries between the layers are the weak points for this application: Even if the material like ABS could withstand the blow handled with such a club, the print will break at its weakest point - which in this case is any layer boundary. This is amplyfied by the basic design we have here: The elongated shape will serve as a lever on each of the weak boundries, until one gives way and results in catastrophic failure and a flying clubhead.
Non-FDM for the rescue.
=======================
To counteract this, you need to use a different method than FDM printing to get a more homogenous material than the bound deposited filament. Such methods could be for example SLA (Stereolithography) or SLS (Selective Laser Sintering). Both could easily offer even tiny details.
SLS uses Nylon or metal powders, sometimes even ceramics - Tungstencarbide for example.
### SLA/Resin
Using a Resin printer using the SLA methods results in an object almost as homogenous as an injecion molded object. Proper aftercare and curing is required to get the best results. Also, Resin prints usually age under UV light, which can negatively impact lifetime. SLA printers are expensive (for home printers), print shops that offer them relatively rare and costly (in comparison to FDM) but usually offer superb resolution and almost perfect smoothness. A lot of the exact material properties is resin and aftercare dependant.
A way around the aging could be that the results of an SLA print could be used to create green-sand molds countless times, which can be used for casting metal or even some thermoplastics. Remember though, that cooling metal shrinks.
### SLS Nylon
Nylon would be a medium rigid, light solution, but it ages and has a quite rough surface. It does offer some flex, almost perfect for this application. While most SLS machines for nylon are commercial to industrial, print technology of this kind is widespread enough to make them somewhat affordable (for an industrial printer) and printshops for these relatively common, prints are not cheap but well priced.
### DMLS / SLM
Direct Metal Laser Sintering and Selective Laser Melting - an evolution of SLS - allows to create structures from various metals by sintering/melting powders of metal at the right spot to gain shape. The benefit would be, that you get a part that could withstand much more destructive testing than your bottle used as a clubhead - you get a workpiece of solid metal (Steel, aluminium, Titanium and a lot others are available) after all that has the same properties as a cast item. The big downside is, that only few companies currently delve into DMLS, among them the former patent holder of many of the FDM printing patents, [Stratasys](https://www.stratasysdirect.com/technologies/direct-metal-laser-sintering). This means, that a machine for this is industrial rated and priced, and that print suppliers charge accordingly.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: ***If you want a 3D printing answer then***
I see that the part has a few major points of concern to me:
1. Threads (Gosh I hate threads).
2. Tolerance - +/- 0.1 mm-0.2 mm should work fine (in terms of those threads fitting on the top of the bottle)
3. Strength - This needs to be strong, so as to be able to effectively not break when spinning around.
In terms of tech your best option is - SLS
Layer resolution - 0.120 mm
For material options (In descending order of choice)
1. ***PA 11*** - Impact resistance is the major property for these parts. This is the material for your application .
Here is the material data sheet - [EOS PA 1102 Black](https://www.3dhubs.com/material/eos-pa-1102-black).
2. ***Glass filled PA-12*** (I'll be taking this as second option) it has the strength but is extremely brittle . Material Data sheet - [EOS PA 3200 GF](https://www.3dhubs.com/material/eos-pa-3200-gf).
3. ***DuraForm ProX HST Composite*** (The expensive option) Yeah this will work. Check out the data sheet [3D Systems DuraForm ProX HST Composite](https://www.3dhubs.com/material/3d-systems-duraform-prox-hst-composite)
***Now the Non 3D printing solution***
So, to manufacture this design any other way is actually very simple but the threads are a serious area of concern.
1. The body section can be cut on a standard 3 axis CNC.
For material options please choose a no brainer like ***polycarbonate or delrin***. Find information here: [Plastic
CNC machining](https://www.3dhubs.com/cnc-machining/plastic).
2. Threads would have to be manually lathe machined onto it. (You need some beautiful hand work here). This might not be feasible by suppliers on 3dhubs.
Now my argument is to go for Additive manufacturing over CNC as you get the part straight out of the machine with the threads and material strength innate.
You can even make the part hollow using some design skills. This will make it lighter.
It would be very nice if you could get your 3D file ready so as to start this whole process and actually go about to manufacture it.
I can add more details if you want to. Just comment and ask.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I do think that FDM is possible for this item.
----------------------------------------------
Polyamide (nylon) would be my first choice for this, as it has great interlayer strength and it is very impact resistant and durable. Its failure mode will be permanent bending and stretching rather than cracks or a clean break like common FDM plastics like PLA and ABS.
I also needed a filament to simulate PP for FDM use recently, and found that [Polymaker's nylon co-polymer CoPa](http://www.polymaker.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/PolyMide%E2%84%A2-CoPA_TDS_V3-1.pdf "Polymaker CoPa") in its conditioned state closely matches PP in its properties. Conditioned means that it has absorbed moisture which softens polyamide.
Regular nylon for 3d printing should have similar properties to CoPa, if a bit softer than PP in my experience.
However material is only secondary to geometry
----------------------------------------------
I believe that in general the actual 3d model and its geometry is more important than the material itself. Indeed this item could be made using regular brittle PLA if the design is good, but it might be heavy or bulky. Thus choosing a better suited material is often a trade between weight, dimensions, and cost. Printing with PLA using very high infill might work, but would take too long and be too heavy compared to nylon, as an example.
This also means that the design of the part would inform the choice of the printing method to be used. Using FDM printing the Z-axis is a lot weaker than X-Y. But other methods are not completely isotropic either - they still have layers that can introduce stress risers and weaker bonding, but they are much less prominent than in FDM. Changing the design can enable you to choose a cheaper process.
Two important principles for designing for 3d printing to be considered before doing a final selection of material are:
* Increasing the dimensions/wall thickness in weak or highly loaded
areas.
* Design with printing orientation in mind. Choose a proper orientation for the load the item will experience.
To exemplify for your particular case:
Increase the thickness of the handle around the connection to the bottle.
Lay it down with the long axis in the X-Y plane which will increase the strength tremendously, perhaps enabling it to be printed in PLA, ABS or PETG. Either split it in half and glue/screw it together, or use supports. You may need to print the threads upright as a separate part that is mated to the handle in the assembly process.
Finally, I would like to encourage you to embrace the main benefit of "rapid prototyping" - its speed and low cost to try things out. Make a first prototype and test it to destruction before settling on the design and material selection.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/02 | 352 | 1,461 | <issue_start>username_0: When using Slic3r I noticed that `Slice now` and `Export G-Code` do different things. While `Slice now` is nice, it does not show any tool paths etc.
Is there an actual way to generate and visualize the G-code in Slic3r without saving the exported G-Code first? When aligning seams etc., it is quite annoying to always save the file to see a difference because `Slice now` seems to make little difference.<issue_comment>username_1: After you use the Slice Now button (and the slicing progress bar shows completed), select the preview tab. To the right of the window you will see a pair of vertical sliders. Each slider changes the start and finish locations for the filament layers.
You can slide the left one to the bottom, which will "empty" the virtual print bed. Each movement upward will display a succeeding layer, showing the placement of the filament. This ostensibly will present to you alignment information as well as unexpected holes or other failure points.
I don't know of any slicer that lacks a preview. That doesn't mean one does not exist, but why would such a useful feature be omitted?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Using Repetier Host V2.1.2 and slicing with Slic3r (or with CuraEngine), there is an "edit Gcode" button under the Print Preview tab. It is located at the top right of the screen. With that button you can access, examine and change the Gcode of the project you are working on.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/03 | 517 | 1,674 | <issue_start>username_0: My G29 command reports
```
+0.178 +0.281 +0.830
-0.614 -0.012 +0.371
-1.208 -0.849 -0.351
```
So should I tighten up the screw of the bed, close to 0,0 position or loosen it?
I have a feeling that when I loosen it, it gets away from zero and I expect the opposite to happen.
For bed leveling i use a capacitive probe and after playing around with the screws here is the result
```
+0.406 +0.127 +0.411
-0.161 -0.007 -0.041
-0.572 -0.652 -0.668
```
Finally the leveling process was found [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y_1Kg45APko)
But the question remains. The value `-0.572` corresponds close to `0,0` ?<issue_comment>username_1: After you use the Slice Now button (and the slicing progress bar shows completed), select the preview tab. To the right of the window you will see a pair of vertical sliders. Each slider changes the start and finish locations for the filament layers.
You can slide the left one to the bottom, which will "empty" the virtual print bed. Each movement upward will display a succeeding layer, showing the placement of the filament. This ostensibly will present to you alignment information as well as unexpected holes or other failure points.
I don't know of any slicer that lacks a preview. That doesn't mean one does not exist, but why would such a useful feature be omitted?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Using Repetier Host V2.1.2 and slicing with Slic3r (or with CuraEngine), there is an "edit Gcode" button under the Print Preview tab. It is located at the top right of the screen. With that button you can access, examine and change the Gcode of the project you are working on.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/04 | 2,376 | 7,301 | <issue_start>username_0: I just received an old 3D printer from one of my school teachers. I have no idea whatsoever as to which brand it is, no instruction manual attached to it, or any other info about it.
How can I find some information about it?
Some links would be very useful. Remember when giving advice that I know nothing about 3D printers.
This is the printer:
*Backside*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GC3mb.jpg "Printer as seen from the back")
*Front*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmDtw.jpg "Printer as seen from the front")
*The X-axis stepper*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXuiX.jpg "The X-axis stepper")
*The electronics board*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YTJwl.jpg "The electronics board")<issue_comment>username_1: As far as I can see on the pictures - the main board shall be capable to upload Marlin software and run smoothly.
If you connect power and PC/Mac over the USB connection, then using [Pronterface](http://www.pronterface.com) you can validate mechanical movements of the printer.
As the rods looks a bit dusty - please clean them with a soft cloth and degreaser to avoid jamming.
If you have any issues you could flash a new version of the firmware - please use [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5849/9730), to the question, [How to upload firmware to reprap printer?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5848/how-to-upload-firmware-to-reprap-printer), as a guide to how to upload firmware to the printer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is an old 3D printer that looks a lot like the [Mendel](https://reprap.org/wiki/Mendel) or a simpler remix of the Mendel (the [Prusa Mendel](https://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Mendel)). I think this is a Mendel you have obtained, it was released in October 2009.
This is a printer type from the early days, a lot about these printers can be found now that you know the type. These old types can be constructed from printed parts and hardware store materials. Nowadays, metals like steel and aluminium sheets or aluminium profiles are more commonly used.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Here are some further details on:
* The control board, and;
* The stepper motors
Control board
-------------
The electronics board has this marking:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ui1WV.png "EJE Electronics Gubbel Engineering")
```
EJE Electronics Gubbels Engineering
```
The serial number is `0070-003`
According to this site [Xinchejian First Mendel V2 Reprap](https://wiki.xinchejian.com/wiki/Mendel_Reprap) the board is:
>
> Gen6 Electronics, with AT Mega 644p processor (PCB EJE Electronics, Gubbels Engineering - mendel-parts.com)
>
>
>
It seems to be this board (the serial numbers match):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dccKv.jpg "Gen6_PCB_final_batch")
Information on this board can be found here: [Generation 6 Electronics](https://reprap.org/wiki/Generation_6_Electronics):
>
> Generation 6, or Gen6, can be described as a dedicated, Plug-&-Play, single board solution for FFF/FDM 3D Printers. It is designed to be professionally manufactured, with many small surface mount components, as opposed to Generation 7 which is designed to be printed on a Mendel(among other design goals).
>
>
> Another major difference with Gen6 electronics is that they use Texas Instruments DRV8811 chips to drive the stepper motors. This means they require firmware modifications from the normal Polulu-based electronics which use Allegro A4983 chips.
>
>
>
It goes on to say:
>
> **Benefits of this Design**
>
>
> * These electronics are a single board solution, so you don't need all those cables and one thick sheet and 4 reprap parts less.
> * However, the thick sheet does add a fair amount of rigidity. @$@#?? the bottom thick sheet (big one) doesnt add
> much rigidity, the front one is used for stiffness of the frame, not
> the bottom one.
> * It has a standard USB connection (USB A>B cable needed)
> * It uses micro-stepping (1/8) for quieter operation.
> * It is cheaper than for example Makerbot's version of the RepRap Generation 3 electronics.
> * It uses small standard Molex connectors for motors, heater, and optos.
> * The pcb of the optos are integrated, so you only need the optos on cables with 5way Molex connectors
>
>
> **Hardware Features**
>
>
> * on-board USB-RS232 convertor
> * Integrated hardware for driving one extruder (stepper, heater and thermistor)
> * RS485 bus connector with the possibility to link through the extruder step and dir signals
> * Integrated hardware for driving H21LOB or TCST2103 slotted optosensors
> * High input voltage range: 12-24Vdc
> * Use of standard connectors with easy and clean installation
> * Debug LEDs for power, communication and heater output
> * Reset button
>
>
> **Specifications**
>
>
> * Dimensions 110x60mm
> * Mounting grid: 100x50mm (4x M3)
> * Input voltage 12-24Vdc
> * On-board controller: ATmega 644p (Atmel Corp.)
> * RS485 connector: RJ45
> * Heat output: MOSFET output, 4A
> * Thermistors input: 100K thermistor
>
>
>
There is a lot more information on that page, including information about the power supply, USB, End stops, Heaters, Motors, Firmware, etc. I suggest that you read it fully, in order to understand the board's functionality.
Stepper Motors
--------------
The stepper's model number can be seen here:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ozDOL.png "Stepper serial number")
The stepper's model number is `SY42STH47-1683B`,
which is a *NEMA-17 High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motor*, with these specifications:
* Step angle: 1.8°
* Number of phase: 2
* Rated voltage: 2.8 V
* Rated current: 1.68 A
* Holding torque: 4.4 kg/cm
This would be, at least, part of the [datasheet](https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/images/SY42STH47-1684B-060047076.jpg):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5nZ07.jpg "Stepper specification")
Here are a couple of links, should you need replacements (~€17):
* [NEMA-17 (SY42STH47-1684B Stepper Motor) - Polabs)](https://www.poscope.com/product/nema-17-sy42sth47-1684b-stepper-motor/)
* [SY42STH47-1684B High Torque Hybrid Stepper Motors](https://www.zappautomation.co.uk/sy42sth47-1684b-high-torque-hybrid-stepper-motors.html)
This stepper motor is also listed on the [RepRapWiki - NEMA 17](https://reprap.org/wiki/NEMA_17_Stepper_motor) page:
```
Model Holding Torque Rated voltage Shaft Step angle Motor length Rated current Inductance
SY42STH47-1684B 43.1 N·cm 2.8 V Ø 5 mm double 1.8° 48 mm n/a n/a
```
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/07/04 | 446 | 1,637 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an Anet A8, and recently updated the firmware to Marlin 1.1.8.
My only change was replacing the configuration files by the Anet A8 sample files built in with the firmware zip file.
Everything works fine but, sometimes, right after finishing a printing (while doing the "home all"), the LCD shows some weird data, like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8H1Vn.jpg "LCD weird data")
The same happens when push the "confirm", after the mesh bed leveling.
I'd like to know why it happens. Is it a Marlin bug?<issue_comment>username_1: This is a known problem of the Anet A8 display, it is caused by electrical interference. Pressing the middle button will refresh the display.
This is prone to happen when doing long prints.
There are some reported successes of people inserting ferrite beads or toroidal rings.
No, this is not a firmware issue, this is a hardware issue.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have solved completely, I covered the flat cable, with copper tape, this shield should be connected to the 0V of the power supply.
All disorders will disappear.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I had this issue for a long time and finally I tried a super-simple hack. Attach a testlead from bed to PSU (which is grounded). Problem solved!
In other words: The Marlin firmware may be more "sensitive" than the original stock firmware, but it is not really a firmware issue.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3klX.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/06 | 659 | 2,431 | <issue_start>username_0: A little backstory to help you understand the situation. I put the 3D printer together and turned it on and everything seemed fine until I started printing. It didn't even get the first layer down when the screen reset and so did the print. I didn't think anything of it, I just went back and tried again, but this time right when I pressed start, the fuse blew.
I have done some research on the issue and haven't had any luck besides recommendations for putting in a secondary fuse before the power supply (which I will be doing in the near future). As for now though, my plan is to just replace the power supply fuse if possible. I went to the hardware store and picked up a Bussmann T5AL/250V fuse (photo attached below) and before I put it in, I just want to make sure this is the correct fuse and I'm not going to kill the entire printer this time.
*Picture showing the internals of the power supply unit:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fYGTI.jpg "PSU, cover removed showing fuse")
*Picture of the fuse I bought:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QU6dU.jpg "Picture of the fuse I bought")
Any and all help is very much appreciated because as you might expect, I'm not too happy with the printer so far.<issue_comment>username_1: The fuse rating is same as described on the board - so that shall be no issue with it.
**My main concern is why the fuse is down?**
Was there a short-circuit? As this is mains fuse - that suggest a big-bang, so, please check carefully hot-end and bed heater connections before restarting the device, to avoid replacing another fuse.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To add to the answer of *@username_1* (which you **absolutely need to address first** (find the cause why it blew); else the fuse might blow again), you might be interested in installing fuse clamps. As *@fred\_dot\_u* mentions:
>
> use caution when soldering leads to the fuse that you do not de-solder
> the internal fuse from the caps
>
>
>
is that if you incorrectly solder the fuse, you might de-solder the caps, soldering the clamps is easier.
*Example of fuse clamp:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwRFQ.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/06 | 478 | 1,849 | <issue_start>username_0: I have been using my Anet A2 for about a year. A few problems but none that I haven't been able to resolve. Today it suddenly stopped auto homing.
Using the position commands I can advance the X and Y positively but not negatively (after I manually re-position the carriages before turning the printer on). Also the Y stepper motor makes an unusual noise and it will over advance the Y axis. This behavior was preceded by a feed fault. The print started fine but the stepper motor stopped feeding shortly after the print started.
I am printing from an SD card as I always have. I changed SD cards thinking it might be a connection problem and I checked the G-code and all the commands including the E commands seem to be there. I have checked all the electrical connections - they seem to be fine.
Any suggestions to solve this?<issue_comment>username_1: The fuse rating is same as described on the board - so that shall be no issue with it.
**My main concern is why the fuse is down?**
Was there a short-circuit? As this is mains fuse - that suggest a big-bang, so, please check carefully hot-end and bed heater connections before restarting the device, to avoid replacing another fuse.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To add to the answer of *@username_1* (which you **absolutely need to address first** (find the cause why it blew); else the fuse might blow again), you might be interested in installing fuse clamps. As *@fred\_dot\_u* mentions:
>
> use caution when soldering leads to the fuse that you do not de-solder
> the internal fuse from the caps
>
>
>
is that if you incorrectly solder the fuse, you might de-solder the caps, soldering the clamps is easier.
*Example of fuse clamp:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HwRFQ.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/06 | 1,485 | 5,313 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an incoming project and the only 3D printer available to me is the TronXY X1.
So the question is: Can it handle at least four days of continuous load or should I search for an alternate solution?
*I don't want to damage (my only) 3D printer for this project.*<issue_comment>username_1: I know that this is a bit *wishy-washy* but some can, some can't.
The TronXY has a bit of an issue with the power supply to start with. The *power brick* is a (*reportedly*) bit suspect, for long jobs, see [my answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5798/ramps-1-4-with-a-power-brick/6171#6171) to the question, [Ramps 1.4 with a power brick](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5798/ramps-1-4-with-a-power-brick).
It could be worth upgrading the power supply to a higher current rated PSU (20 A - 35 A), with an aluminium enclosure, i.e. those PSUs which are marketed as LED power supplies, such as this, [Tronxy 3D printer accessoires power supply 240W AC110/220V DC 12V 20A for 3D print DIY kit part](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Tronxy-3D-printer-accessoires-power-supply-240W-AC110-220V-DC-12V-20A-for-3D-print-DIY/32723053329.html) on AliExpress.
Then you can add your heatbed (that you refer to in your other question), without worrying.
It all depends on how critical your 24/7 project is. Is it a serious production run or just a hobby-like project that is a bit of a fun endurance test? How important is it that the print run goes without a hitch? Would a power supply failure mid-print be catastrophic or easily shrugged off? Would the delay incurred by trying to find a replacement power brick actually matter that much?
A simple analogy would be driving from Germany to Mauritania across the Western Sahara, with some serious, and urgent medical supplies. You could either either buy a well maintained, and carefully run in, Mercedes, which will most likely last the entire journey and then some, *or* you could buy a clapped out old Lada, with 500000 km on the clock, with the vain hope of getting there. The Mercedes would seem to be the better option.
However, if you are delivering a [Dundee cake](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dundee_cake) for an Aunt, which is neither time critical nor particularly important and you aren't even sure that your Aunt will be at home when you get there, then maybe the Lada will suffice.
Into which category does your 24/7 print project fall in? It sounds like the former.
Apart from the power supply, i.e. w.r.t. the stepper motors and hotend, unfortunately, I don't know the answer and can not answer your question.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have the same Printer - a TronXY X1, and I feel confident that with a little upgrade here and there, it can handle long prints without problems.
The most needed upgrade is a quality power brick. Mine died after some month. For replacement I have chosen a 12 V/10 A output one of a reputable supplier with warranty and it runs without any warming since.
Then, I did upgrade the hotend itself. The built in hotend can become leaky under long prints. I did fix this by exchanging it for a genuine e3d-v6 lite. Yes, only a lite, because this machine can only print PLA anyways for a lack of a heated bed - and there is little size one can add to the machine's print surface due to design limitations (one can only extend Y and Z to some degree without generating problems).
Tighteners for the X on the Z-axis and the bed are a very good idea to make the printer a little more reliable, resulting in less misprints or lost prints at upper heights due to wobble or layer shift.
Generally, I have printed some quite long prints (several 16 hours, one 28 hours), and with a reliable hotend and good filament feed (in once case the spool got jammed by a pen falling into it), the TronXY X1 did do its work quite good. Mind, that I tend to always print at 0.1 mm layer hight.
I do not know how 4 days of continuous load would work out, but my X1 has some summed up 2 weeks of prints under its belt by now, so... I *think* it can do this, but I would give it a general check (for example inspect if the bed is still settled tight) between prints.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Rather than investing up front in a new power supply, consider printing with the equipment you already have; knowing in advance that the power supply may fail, but proceeding with the confidence that you can replace it if it does.
This approach won’t cost you anything to try. If it fails, it will result in only a brief outage until you replace it. If it doesn’t fail, you saved the cost of a power supply.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: The answer is yes, with a little of extra care maintaining your hardware cold as possible, when I started to print I mounted some PC fans where I notice that the heat will be a problem. For my printer I placed one small fan to Z motors and other one pointing to the power source connectors; I could print for 2 weeks easily. I´m using a PC power source, so this power supply has his own fan.
Now I've calibrated the Z motors current, so now keeps a low temperature, the power connectors were soldered instead using the loose connectors, so now I'm using a fan for the whole shield just for extra caution.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/07 | 775 | 2,827 | <issue_start>username_0: I came across several issues which seem to have been lowered.
Firstly, I changed from a 0.4 to a 0.5 mm nozzle. Because of the backpressure I was not able to print my PETG (Colorfabb XT filament) below 270°C which caused unresolvable oozing. After that I was able to extrude till 230°C.
The left print below shows the result. I disassembled the hotend, there was no leak or whatsoever. Maybe it was too cold for printing. However, the temperature displayed was 250°C. Then I replaced the cheap aluminum heat block with a copper alloy based one. After that my PIDs did not work anymore. I had to greatly enhance the d-term, otherwise there was a big overshoot. Guess there was a serious heat conducting issue with the old BQ hotend.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxd43.jpg "Prints using BQ Alu Heatblock (left) and Copper alloy heatblock (right)")
Anyway, from there it became better. However, I noticed that I still have severe underextrusion after travel moves (second piece, first picture, first piece, second picture). I use Cura, so I activated retraction with the feature to prime after travel moves. I got the wall closed just after 0.35 mm³.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oj1Ey.jpg "Prints using Copper alloy Heatblock (left)")
My Question: Is this underextrusion after travel moves normal for PETG/XT? I did not discover such behavior with PLA or ABS in the past.
Current Site Advice: Despite the weight, copper heat blocks seem to be worth the upgrade.<issue_comment>username_1: Have you tried adjusting the Extra Restart Distance in Simplify3D or Retraction Extra Prime in Ultimaker Cura? Most slicers should have a similar setting, perhaps named just slightly differently. A small positive value can help prime the nozzle after a long travel when you've lost back pressure or oozed a little.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Zero retraction is just a special (worst) case of under-retraction. You'll pretty much always lose material to oozing if you don't retract before travel. At best this ends up hidden inside the print (but can still affect weight and weight balance); usually it'll also harm the surface.
Ensure that retraction is set to *always* happen (not skipping short travel), and at least 5-6 mm for bowden extruders. Direct extruders can get away with less but I'm not sure exactly how much less. Less-rigid materials need more retraction to make up for compression of the filament between the extruder gear and the nozzle.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/07/08 | 865 | 3,125 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Bowden extruder in my printer setup. Everything works great except this effect which must be related with retraction and is generated on Z layer change:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vasJH.jpg "Print layer effect")
The model itself, is printed in one layer perimeter / outline shell, with 0.25 mm layer height with the following settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/D66PI.png "Printer settings")<issue_comment>username_1: What you see on the outer surface is called "[zits and blobs](https://www.simplify3d.com/preventing-blobs-on-3d-print/)".
These small imperfections you experience are "zits" (larger ones are referred to as blobs). As the extruder needs to start and stop as it moves around during a print, it is difficult to create a seamless joint, so the over-extruded filament represents the location where the extruder started (or ended) printing a section of the outer perimeter of your print model. Sometimes it returns to the same spot in a single extrusion run, in other cases the perimeter is constructed of multiple sections.
It is possible to do something to minimize the effects depending on the slicer you use, but the general solution is to prevent too much plastic being deposited at either the start or the end of that seam. E.g. incorrect retraction settings may cause too much plastic to be extruded at the start, and pressure build-up in the nozzle may cause an excess of plastic to be extruded, both lead to the imperfections you experience. First you have to find out which of the two effects is happening with your prints. Once identified, you can play with settings like retraction, priming, and coasting to counteract on these imperfections. A more detailed description can be found [here](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#blobs-and-zits).
---
***Edit***:
Please read the addition posted in the comment by @Trish; the comment describes that this may also be related to over-extrusion!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Your **retraction-related setting "Extra Restart Distance"** = 0.12 mm could be the cause of your issue, by using a too-high value.
I don't know which slicer you use, but it seems that this setting is the equivalent of "Retraction Extra Prime Amount" in Cura, there explained as follows:
>
> Some material can ooze away during a travel move, which can be compensated for here.
>
>
>
So if retraction happens on layer changes in your case, then this setting could be too high, leading to the observed zits.
Indeed your value is quite high. It is equivalent to $\pi \times (\frac{1.75 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.12 mm = 0.29 mm^3$ (assuming 1.75 mm filament). Each of your zits is roughly a half cylinder of 0.6 mm in diameter and 0.35 mm in height, so $0.5 \times \pi \times (\frac{0.6 mm}{2})^2 \times 0.35 mm = 0.05 mm^3$. It is easy to imagine that your 0.29 mm3 extra prime amount could be too much by 0.05 mm3.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/08 | 482 | 1,596 | <issue_start>username_0: Why does this happen (circled in red), and how can I fix it? It is making my prints come out horrible.
Not shown in the picture, but the option "Coasting" was Enabled:
* Coasting Volume 0.064 mm3
* Minimum Volume Before Coasting: 0.8
* Coasting Speed 90%
---
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a4sB6.jpg "Rendered G-code view of a sliced model")<issue_comment>username_1: I have had a similar thing happen when slicing a large piece that has - in real life - walls of about 2 cm. By scaling it down to 1.5%, this become less than the wall thickness, and the wall was simply omitted by CURA.
In my experience, a model showing gaps *can* have in these locations a thickness less than 1 wall.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you enable the option "Coasting", the extruder will follow the extrusion path at the end of switching to the next layer or the next section, but will not deposit any material as it uses the build up pressure in the nozzle to deposit the final bits. This shows up in your G-code representation by empty (non-depositing) gaps (in reality, when fine-tuned correctly, will be filled).
*E.g. sliced without "Coasting" enabled:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1YJCg.png)
*E.g. sliced with "Coasting" enabled:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SAtyB.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/07/08 | 454 | 1,752 | <issue_start>username_0: My first printer is Delta style Kossel clone and I have bad luck with Print In Place (PIP) models, especially with hinges. I suspect that my printer just can't achieve low enough tolerances to make the hinges work.
Are there any tricks I can employ to get better prints for PIP models?<issue_comment>username_1: Delta printers are considered to be able to be accurate printers cause of the limited weight in the head (using Bowden extruder setup). The positioning can be very accurate (limited weight, limited overshooting) and because of the limited amount of weight, the print speed can be increased.
An [interesting paper](http://www.scielo.br/pdf/mr/v20s2/1516-1439-mr-1980-5373-MR-2016-1039.pdf) has been written on a comparative study between a Cartesian and a Delta machine. The paper concludes that the Delta style printer produces "a better surface finish". However, I'm a bit skeptical as the images of the Cartesian printed part they have printed are of far less quality I can produce with 2 of my printers. Fact is that Delta machines have no Z-wobble (also called [banding](http://www.soliwiki.com/Banding)) that is a common problem with Prusa i3 style printers for instance.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It is possible that your printer is over-extruding, and this will certainly give less satisfactory results when you try to print models which have internal clearances.
It is also possible that you have some calibration issues which affect orthogonality, x/y/z dimensions or flatness in each axis.
In terms of general improvements, slower and maybe cooler might help - but before jumping in with difficult models, how are your 'standard' print test parts coming out?
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/08 | 1,075 | 4,085 | <issue_start>username_0: Waiting for a heatbed to get up to 85˚C for a relatively small part got me wondering why beds aren't hardware/G-code configurable for what area is heated? I'm sure it would be an increase in parts costs and electronics, but it seems that being able to just heat an area a little larger than the part(s) being built would save in time and energy use.<issue_comment>username_1: I've wondered that myself a while ago and fact is that such beds or silicone heating pads do [exist](http://www.formbot3d.com/dual-zone-heated-build-plate-and-digital-controller-for-t-rex-2_p0015.html). Usually these are quite large (and expensive) and usually referred to as "dual zone heat beds/pads".
As far as energy consumption; less area to heat is faster heat up times (depending on the control) and less energy consumed. For small prints this may be beneficial. The price of such beds are very high, so to break even you would have to print a lot. An alternative to buying would be to [etch your own bed](https://reprap.org/wiki/Etched_heatbed_construction).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As the etched version is very impressive (thanks username_1 for that), there are other possibilities to build zones on the bed:
1. Using [resistance wire](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UD-wire-box-6-in-1-with-a1clapton-wire-braided-twisted-ni200-wire-nichromme-wire-for/32666221193.html);
2. Using a etched bed with zones.
The challenge with zones is mainly down to:
1. When and how to switch on/off particular zone;
2. Temperature control needs to be added to every zone to avoid over/under heat in the particular zone.
This last point brings *even more* challenges as that requires a PWM channel and a temp sensor (per zone), so standard RAMPS need some extensions in the wiring.
One could overcome that using custom G-Code to set on/off zones and a double temp sensor for the main zone to follow the temperature changes.
In detail: a dedicated Arduino with PWM outputs that will read the temperature from a secondary temperature sensor in the main zone and follows it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: The heated bed is a reasonably good thermal conductor, so the difference in energy between heating all or 10% of the bed (assuming a 3x3 grid split 1 and 8) isn't going to be that significant.
In terms of heating speed, 200W across the whole bed will heat it faster than 40W applied to the centre square, and will also be less likely to cause warming or heat cycling effects (unless PSU regulation is a problem).
If the bed is much larger, or has thermally separated zones, then there might be some justification in the increased control complexity.
As an example, although glass has a thermal conductivity around 1% of a metal, it is still 30x better conducting than air. Conductivity towards the unheated areas of even a solid glass bed will roughly match the surface loss - so best case you would reduce losses to somewhere 20%-50% of what heating the whole bed might cost (assuming the same 3x3 grid).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: it is probably too late for the party but i thought about grid heated bed recently. about controlling which zone to turn on and off, i think we can treat the grid as Led matrix, the matrix led signal can be used to drive mosfets to power the heat pads.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: It makes more sense to insulate "unused" areas, since the heat conduction goes with the surface area. Heating the plate at some place (instead allover the area) makes no big difference (aluminium is a very good heat conductor, this is already mentioned). But insulation will do. I would propose a downside full insulation (5-10 mm) and some "windows-shaped" square silicone (other thin material?) mats to cover the unused areas (mostly on the outer side of the bed) on the top side. Beware of collisions and auto-leveling algorithms (starting very often at corners). Side effect: you may reach much higher temperatures at the uncovered areas (might be doubled if covering half of the surface).
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/07/09 | 507 | 1,979 | <issue_start>username_0: I am slicing with Cura and Slic3r and one important thing that I recently took my attention is that cura positions head in start point of the new layer and then lifts the nozzle. That caused my few printouts to fall as they collided with the nozzle.
Slic3r behavior is different: it raises the nozzle in last printed point and then moves to a new layer starting point (which for me is more obvious)
**Is there a way to instruct Cura to lift nozzle before it goes to the starting point of a new layer?** excluding Z-hops.<issue_comment>username_1: To lift the head to prevent the nozzle to tip over your print you could use an option called `Z hop` in Cura. Just enter `hop' in the search box on the right side to make those options magically appear (in a recent version of Cura, e.g. version 3.x.x).
Other than `Z hop` there is no default action, or series of commands, per layer to be specified before the start of the layer. There are 2 other ways to circumvent this:
1. The first is saving you G-code to file and open the file in an advanced text editor (e.g. Notepad++). With a (recorded) macro you can find the words `;LAYER:`, which are inserted by Cura before each layer starts, and insert a pre-copied list of commands that set the movement in relative mode, move Z up 2 mm, set into absolute mode again. When the next layer starts the extruder goes to the layer start from a 2 mm rise.
2. Write a plugin for Cura to post-process (`C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura x.x\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts`) the G-code file to inject the code to Z hop before the start of every layer, or a plugin that adds a new option and/or category to the slicer settings sidebar of the GUI.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: OK, after going via all the options I found that CURA has a combing mode which reduces retraction and offers another option which is `Avoid Printed Parts When Traveling`.
That solves my problem.
Upvotes: -1 [selected_answer] |
2018/07/09 | 2,273 | 7,064 | <issue_start>username_0: A member of our hackspace wants to get their 8- and 11- year old kids1 excited about 3D-printing and CNC cutting and makering in general. We have a weekly open training where people can design and print/CNC/laser an item of their choice like a dogboned box or a two-piece sword and hilt, or a name tag, or whatever. I need a few ideas prepared so we don't spend half our lesson on Thingiverse or in Fusion (more like a quarter)! I'm not a parent and my youngest friend is probably in their twenties.
What we have:
* a full bed 1200x1800 mm CNC (preferred, because it's loud and fast)
* Prusa mk3
* cheapo 80W 500x300 mm laser
* Fusion 360 based workflow, easy :)
* Arduinos and stuff
Ideas we've had: a minecraft creeper, done as a simple-ish box.
---
1: the (girls) are not interested in my normal kids' goto, which is: swords, shields. They are interested in: minecraft, dragons, horses. \_o\_/
edit: this is NOT an opinion-gathering post, though there may be more than one "correct" answer. We need specific applications of 3d printing for a young audience. This collection of answers will be useful to evangelize making to a whole new generation!<issue_comment>username_1: Our local library makerspace holds summer camp for a limited number of lucky attendees, ages from 12-15 and the curriculum has a segment which appears to match your objective.
In the case of the Launch Pad Camp, the campers will be using [OnShape](http://onshape.com/) to create a keychain/nametag with text of their choosing. It will be an unremarkable 3mm thick x 35-40 mm wide x 70-80 mm long "plank" with a depressed center (by 1.5mm) and raised text. The mentors of the camp expect to be able to teach these campers how to use the software to perform tasks by rote. I assisted the mentor in the process as she had no idea how to use OnShape. Neither did I, but that never slows me down.
Another aspect of her camp is that it will (or may) include using [Scratch](https://scratch.mit.edu/)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqBBt.png)
and does include using a Scratch based program called [Ozoblocky](https://ozoblockly.com/) to interface with [Ozobots](https://ozobot.com/).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BmG3q.png)
I suggested to her that she could use [BlockSCAD](https://www.blockscad3d.com/) to create the 3D objects, as the interface is nearly identical, and in my opinion, very easy to use.
Not surprisingly, BlockSCAD has a series of tutorials available on the [YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xs0a4hzd1Tk).
The [editor for BlockSCAD](https://www.blockscad3d.com/editor/) is browser based removing the requirement to install on every computer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zd5VS.png)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As @fred\_dot\_u mentioned above, keychains are a simple, personalized item to make. In terms of interesting projects, things that I found intriguing when I first encountered 3D printing were objects that could not be made by other means, such as those "geared bearings" ([Google: geared bearings 3d print](https://www.google.com/search?q=geared%20bearings%203d%20print&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjQ9vvpn5LcAhXkKX0KHcqfBLQQsAQITA&biw=1576&bih=820&dpr=1.13)). Given the popularity of figet spinners a while back, they could be an interesting item.
A captive ball in a box, or three joined rings, can also be set up as a 3D print, and could have the same effect, while being easier for the kids to design.
EDIT: Some links to versions of items along the above lines. Thingiverse tends to slowly break links, though, so these might not last:
* [Geared Bearing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451)
* [Captive Ball](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:621854)
* [Three Rings](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4345)
* [Triple Gear](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79310)
* [Self-aligning Bushing Keychain](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148303)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This question is unfortunately, not a good fit for this site, as it stands, for as you say it is opinion based. However, it is great to see that you are getting kids into a relatively new technology (yes, I know it has been around for years, but it is still seen as new to *big media* and the general public).
My answer doesn't provide you with any actual designs, as you asked for. However, just to add an idea or two that I have been thinking about recently, in order to engage kids:
* Have you thought about using 3D printing pens (as side projects to the main feature of the printer)? Although I'm not so sure that the fumes at such close proximity would be that great, unless using PLA. That really would show close up the additive process.
* Also, there is a lot of useful sites to be found on [google](https://www.google.co.th/search?q=T3d%20printing%20for%20kids) (which you have probably seen), such as:
+ [kidscodecs - What is 3D printing?](https://www.kidscodecs.com/what-is-3d-printing/)
+ All3DP has [3D Printed Toys – 11 Ideas for Children of all Ages](https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printed-toys-kids-3d-printing-toys/), but these *seem* to need to be purchased.
* Alternative applications for kids, from [Best CAD Software for Kid Creators](https://3dprint.com/159445/best-cad-for-kids/), that might be worth considering if Fusion 360 doesn't float their Benchy boat:
+ [Solidworks Apps for Kids](http://appsforkids.solidworks.com/),
+ SketchUp
+ 123D Design
+ Tinkercad;
+ LeoCAD
+ Leopoly
+ BlocksCAD
+ 3D Slash
+ Some other ideas from [3dPrint.com - 3d design app for kids](https://3dprint.com/tag/3d-design-app-for-kids/)
* Maybe, as all kids seem to have iPhones, or what have you, these days, how about an App for kids upon which they can play with a design, and then print it later? Such an app would probably provide examples for them to get started with. One such app is the [Toy Maker by AstroPrint](https://toymaker.astroprint.com) - although that may require a commercial printer, I'm not sure. However, other such apps for smart phones probably are out there.
As for examples, there are [42 kids](https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:kids_toy) toys tagged on Thingiverse, such as:
* [Save the last Unicorn [Game]](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2238123)
* [Cartoon Weiner Dog](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2855568)
* [L<NAME> (Peter Rabbit Series)](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2124806)
* [Grand Hillar](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:368229)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/El7xY.png "Grand Hillar")
Also to take from username_2's idea, some fidget spinners:
* [Fidget Spinner](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2313626)
* [Kid Sized Generic Spinner](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2285700)
* [10mm Nut Fidget Spinner](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2245460)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/07/09 | 691 | 1,957 | <issue_start>username_0: I am pondering about buying a Creality Ender-3, and I am honestly confused about some reviews. Some claim it is running 24 V, one did claim it was 12 V, most don't mention it. Since I know about some issues with the clamps, if I get myself an Ender-3, I want to replace the hotend with a proper one from day one. So knowing its voltage is needed to order the right parts.<issue_comment>username_1: After checking the amazon listings of the ender-3, they contain more information than the gearbest listing: indeed it is a **24V** machine.
>
> Product description
>
>
> [...]
>
>
> **Output: DC 24 V 15 A 360 W**
>
>
> [...]
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Bearing in mind that the specifications on Amazon's page are sometimes not 100% (even though they are *in this case*), it is always best to check on the manufacturer's website.
From Creality3D's own website, [Creality3D.shop](https://www.creality3dofficial.com/), on the Creality3D Ender-3 product page, [Creality3D Ender-3 3D Printer Economic Ender DIY KITS](https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/official-creality-ender-3-3d-printer), the specifications are given as (emphasis is mine):
>
> ##ender-3 Machine Parameter:
>
>
> * Modeling Technology：FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling）
> * Printing Size：220*220*250mm
> * Machine Size：440*410*465mm
> * Package weight：8kg Max
> * Traveling Speed：180mm/s
> * Filament：1.75mm PLA,TPU,ABS
> * **Input：AC 100-265V 50-60Hz**
> * ***Output：DC 24V 15A 360W***
> * Layer Thickness：0.1-0.4mm
> * Nozzle diameter：0.4mm
> * Precision：±0.1mm
> * File Format：STL,OBJ,G-Code
> * Working Mode：Online or SD offline
> * Max Nozzle Temperature：255℃
> * Max Hot bed Temperature：110℃
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The Ender 3 and the CR-10 printers use the same board which runs on both 12V and 24V. I have one of each and have to be careful swapping parts between the two.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/10 | 2,924 | 9,403 | <issue_start>username_0: Ok, I did it, I ordered myself an Ender-3, a genuine 24V e3D hotend, inductive sensor and some better tubing/clamps to cope with the problem the CR10/Ender line has occasionally.
But now I need to fix up my Cura for the machine coming in. The start is the CR10, and fixing the dimensions is easy.
But now comes the tricky part: Start and End G-code. For my TronXY I never bothered with changing it away from the "basic" settings that a "custom 3D printer" on Marlin gave, but this time I want to know what I type in there. The basic code, after I dragged out the G-code handbook from the RepRap wiki to add the missing comments is:
```
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast
;Prime the extruder
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
```
The [RepRap Wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/Start_GCode_routines) suggests that there could be made so much more from this.
I would love to *swipe* the nozzle before starting to print, making sure that the curled up filament from this first extrusion doesn't get squished against the nozzle and make a bad first layer.
**How does an example (commented) G-code for swiping the nozzle look like?**<issue_comment>username_1: What code we have so far
------------------------
The code already made by Ultimaker Cura 3 (and then commented on) can be explained a little more:
`G28 ;Home`
*This homes your machine to hit end stop positions, from now on your printer knows the coordinates of the print volume. This place it knows as <0-0-0> - check where that is: above the print surface or next to it!*
`G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the Gantry up 15mm going fast`
*Instruct the build plate to move down, or in your case lift the head up 15 mm at 6000 mm/min*
`;Prime the extruder`
*This is a comment that the nex code will deal with priming the nozzle*
`G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance`
*[G92](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position) sets the position of the extruder by resetting the current position to the specified value of zero*
`G1 F200 E3 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock`
*This will extrude 3 mm of filament at a feedrate of 200 mm/min*
`G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance`
*This will reset the extruder length again to zero*
Result of the code
------------------
Basically you will have some filament dangling on your nozzle now, or falling of as the nozzle is hot creating a fine string. You now are facing the possibility that the primed material will be dragged along the build plate to the start of the print.
Nozzle Preparation: Priming sequences
-------------------------------------
### Ultimaker 3: 'blob'&swipe
An alternative I really like is the priming sequence of the Ultimaker 3. The hot end is instructed near the origin of the printer at about a height of 2 mm above the build plate when it starts to extrude plastic, once the extruded plastic becomes a puddle of about 6 mm in diameter the build plate lowers a few mm's and keep extruding for a bit. It then moves in positive Y direction (to the back) and raises the platform (this is the swipe action), then retracts and starts to move to the print start. Now the puddle of filament stays near the origin and will not be dragged.
You can easily make a similar schematic for your printer, I've done so also for various printers. Try and experiment what works best for you. The swipe action is the movement where the nozzle will be instructed to move near the build plate while moving in a certain direction (Y or X), a height of a few tenths is enough to swipe.
I don't have my exact profile here, but you could add (skipping feedrates):
```
G1 Y15 Z0.2 ; moves the nozzle backwards and down from 15 mm to 0.2 mm
G1 Y20 Z0.2 ; swipes the nozzle, this should cut off the "worm"
G1 Z1 ; raise for movement to start of print to add a little space to travel
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The lazy way: Skirt/Brim
------------------------
With my TronXY X1 I learned pretty fast, that this first bit of extrusion on an unheated bed can totally mess up the first layer by being just in the way, as explained in the question.
To some degree, this behavior can be avoided by adding a skirt of a certain length. An equally good alternative that also increases bed adhesion for tricky parts is the brim. Both are not set via G-code but can be added by the slicer. In Ultimaker Cura both are found in the tab Build Plate Adhesion as type, as the following pictures show:
### Skirt: 2 lines, minimum length 250mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iN6IM.png)
### Brim: minimum length 250mm, 8mm width
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uL1Fn.png)
The Prusa Priming-line
----------------------
Angus/MakersMuse introduced me to the Prusa Priming Line in one of his [tutorial videos](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6csbJ5965Bk). For his Wanhao he used (for the video) just this start G-code script:
```
G28
G1 Y-3 F500 ; Move out of print volume
G1 X60 E9 F500 ; start purge line
G1 X100 E12.5 F500 ; finish purge line
```
This resulted in a nice line like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAWQW.png)
In Ultimaker Cura, this piece of code is added via the preferences of a machine. In Cura 3, you usually had to add the starting G-code yourself. Since at least version 4.2.1, all preset machines contain some variant of a priming line, usually at the left side.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Blob & Cut
----------
A different approach is to move to a position out off the print bed, then extrude a long piece of filament and then move forward, cutting the filament at the edge of the print surface. A sample G-code that needs to be adjusted to your bed:
```
G28
G1 Y-5 X5 Z0.1 F500 ; Move off the print surface, a bit above the 0
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 F200 E10 ; extrude 10mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 Y2 F500 ; Move into the print platform
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This is my code:
START CODE:
```
M117 Preparing.... ; Nozzle clean message
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temp
M107 ; Turn layer fan off
G21 ; Metric
G28 ; Home X/Y/Z axis
G0 X0 Y0 Z20 F9000 ; Move up 20mm for heating
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set extruder temp
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temp
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for extruder temp
G92 E0 ; Zero extruder
G28 ; Home X/Y/Z axis
G0 X1 Z0.1 F9000 ; Move up 0.1mm
G0 Y10 F500 ; Move 10mm to get rid of material
G0 Z1 F9000 ; Move up
G0 Y110 F9000 ; Move to line start
G0 Z0.2 F9000 ; Move down
G1 Y20 E25 F500 ; Extrude 25mm filament over 90mm Y axis
G1 Y10 F500 ; Move 10mm without extracting
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder
G1 E-7 F1400 ; Retract 7mm filament
M117 Printing.... ; Printing message
```
END CODE:
```
G91 ; Incremental coordinates
G1 E-3 F1800 ; Retract
G1 Z10 F9000 ; Move up
G90 ; Absolute cooridinates
M106 S0 ; Turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; Turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; Turn off bed
G1 X0 Y220 F9000 ; Move back
M84 ; Disable motors
M117 Finished!. ; Printing message
```
It's almost working perfectly. I can start prints without checking if the first layer is good (requires a leveled bed).
I am open for improvements
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I've experimented a lot with priming/swiping in the G-code prologue, as a result of realizing from [this question and answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8643/11157) how important it is to get it right. The key points are:
* Don't go back and forth; you risk picking back up material you already got rid of. Just swipe in one direction.
* Don't overextrude. This can lead to ending with pressure remaining (especially for printers with bowden extruders) after the swipe/prime line is finished. It's fine if your extrusion rate is so low that adhesion doesn't start til halfway down the line.
* Slow movement with fan on is good.
And with that said, here's what I use with my Ender 3:
```
M106 ; Max fan to discourage ooze sticking to nozzle
G28 ; Home all axes
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E18 ; Draw priming line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching
```
I also undo all but 1mm of the filament retraction at the end of my epilogue (custom end) G-code, to leave the printer in a state comparable to having freshly loaded filament. If you don't undo the retraction here, the low extrusion rate in the prologue might not be enough to prime the next time you print, but increasing it would over-prime in the case where you're dealing with freshly loaded filament.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/10 | 1,905 | 6,676 | <issue_start>username_0: I am getting a 24 V based Ender 3. From the factory, it has an aluminium bed. So I also put this [LJ12 A3-4-Z/BX Inductive NPN NO 4 mm](https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B071ZQ6VV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) with 6-36 V operation current into the box together with a few other spare parts. Now, as I read up on these things something dawns on me: The normal input and output voltage of a simple switch is 5 V, as sensors are ran on 5 V on most boards (and in digital logics). The sensors run on 6 V plus though.
I do not want to fry my machine by putting in 24 V into the sensor input: What do I have to do (besides making a mount)?<issue_comment>username_1: The inductive sensors work better when you apply a higher voltage than 5 V. Usually they are rated for 6-36 V, but please do check.
To prevent frying your board when connecting the sensor to (12 or) 24 Volts you could optically isolate the 5 V and the (12 or) 24 V circuit with an OptoCoupler module:
*Image of an optocoupler module*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xfrlg.jpg)
This module uses an optical switch based on the output of the sensor and should be correctly connected:
*Image of connecting an optocoupler module to the sensor and to the board*
Please note that the image uses a capacitive sensor rather than a inductive sensor, both are connected similarly
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/munY6.jpg)
Note that there are many sorts of sensors, a few are listed [here](https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/improvement/autobedleveling#sensor_support). Generally speaking, the larger the diameter of the sensor, the larger the detection distance to the bed. Note that these work well with metal beds (Iron/steel better than Aluminium), but will not work for glass (capacitive sensors work on glass but are prone to drift by moisture in the air, a touch sensor may then be a better alternative).
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_1: Another possibility is to create a [voltage divider](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider) circuit.
>
> In electronics, a voltage divider (also known as a potential divider)
> is a passive linear circuit that produces an output voltage (Vout)
> that is a fraction of its input voltage (Vin). Voltage division is
> the result of distributing the input voltage among the components of the
> divider. A simple example of a voltage divider is two resistors
> connected in series, with the input voltage applied across the
> resistor pair and the output voltage emerging from the connection
> between them.
>
>
>
Note that fluctuating voltages of the power supply can have side effects that the voltage of the divider is either too low or high for the pin and could result in either a detection miss or could burn the on board processor.
A voltage divider based on 12 V is depicted below based on [this source](https://mertarauh.com/2017/01/18/dont-trust-the-internet-and-how-to-add-an-inductive-proximity-sensor-to-your-3d-printer-the-proper-and-easiest-way):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6HSYk.png)
Please note that for different voltage you require a different value, e.g. for 24 V you would require ([by calculation](http://www.ohmslawcalculator.com/voltage-divider-calculator)) a 2.63 kΩ resistor (which does not exist, so put two resistors in [series](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Series_and_parallel_circuits); a 2.2 kΩ and a 430 Ω to get that value).
---
*NOTE:
This is posted as a separate answer as the question by the OP can be answered by different solutions; this solution uses a totally different approach than my other answer. It is up to the OP to decide which of the answers suits the OP best. This is not in contrast to the SE approach as can be taken from various Meta questions on this topic. To incorporated this answer into the other answer (with multiple ways under captions) is per definition not better than having various answers; different solutions should be in different answers so that they can be voted independently of each other*
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **Minimalist Solution**
The very simplest possible implementation is to use a single resistor(!) to protect the input pin, as described in this [source](https://scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/). The AVR inputs are protected from over/under voltage by internal silicon diodes D1 and D2. The input resistor must be sized such that it will conduct no more than 1 mA when the internal clamping diode, D1, conducts at Vcc+0.5V, or 5.5V in this case. A 22K resistor could work in this case if we use our 24V supply for the sensor. Our current through the clamping diode is calculated by Ohm's Law as (24V - 5.5V)/22K = 0.84 mA.
There is no reason, in this case, to cut so close to the bone though. We do not need particularly high speed detection for this application, so a 100K resistor would be a better choice, and limits diode D1 to 0.19 mA. This gives additional protection for voltage spikes.
This solution works well until the internal diode gets fried by a spike or surge, so it is much better to add redundancy, and use a pair of external Schottky clamping diodes, which have a lower forward voltage drop and will conduct before the internal silicon diodes.
So, my solution, (the one I plan to implement soon on my own Ender 3 Pro\*), is from [this source article](https://scienceprog.com/using-current-limiting-resistors-on-avr-io-pins/) and looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iudxx.png)
Where R1, D3, and D4 are my external components as described, and C1 is omitted for simplicity. (If C1 is used, it forms a low-pass RC filter, so you'd need to size it appropriately. If we find that noise or 'bounce' is an issue, we can add C1 easily later.)
In my opinion a single 100K resistor and two Schottky diodes are adequate protection for this circuit, and the 6-36V proximity sensor will work very well on the available 24V supply.
\*Based on the first comment to this proposed solution, I recognize the need to look carefully at the failsafe property here. Depending on whether the existing Z endstop is included in the loop, and how Marlin handles this too will determine whether this is a satisfactory solution.
I'll leave my part of the discussion there for now, until I get closer to design and implementation on my own machine.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/11 | 2,598 | 9,981 | <issue_start>username_0: When I print large prints close to (but not exceeding) the maximum dimensions of the heated build platform on my Anet A8, the brim or skirt or the print itself is printed outside the heated bed, while there is some space left at the opposite sites. It appears as if the print is not in the center.
* Why is the print not centered on the bed?
*It was centered in the slicer before generating the G-code.*
* How can I center the print to make it fit on the heated build platform?<issue_comment>username_1: When centered in the slicer correctly, without offsets defined in the slicer, the printer is most probably incorrectly configured! Luckily you can do something about that! Basically, you will have to calibrate the printer for a new center.
Printer origin?
---------------
First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common (for most printers) to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the [configuration of Marlin](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h) we find the origin is e.g. in the front-left corner. Note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right. Also be aware that there are a few printers that have the origin in the center, e.g. Delta's and a few Cartesian printers. Marlin definition (edited snippet) of a common bed layout:
```
* +-- BACK ---+
* | |
* L | (+) | R
* E | | I
* F | (-) N (+) | G
* T | | H
* | (-) | T
* | |
* O-- FRONT --+
* (0,0)
* .(-Xh, -Yh)
```
How do I find the physical origin of the printer?
-------------------------------------------------
This can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a [terminal/console](/q/10573) or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. `G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500`); *note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!*. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.
Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the "Origin at center" is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner. When the slicer is properly instructed, but the origin is still not at the corner of the build plate (**beware!** in some printers the origin is in the middle of the plate) you might have incorrect endstop to origin offsets.
Determine the offset first!
---------------------------
To quantify the offset of the center as it is known by the printer software (firmware) it is advised to print a large square that is a few percentage smaller than the maximum size of the bed. E.g. you can create a square hull at e.g. 90 % of the dimensions of the bed (parametric designs are very useful for this purpose, see e.g. [this design](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529/)). There are many things (`.stl` models) to be found on the internet. If it includes a cross, even better as some platforms have a mark in the center of the bed.
*Example of a bed center calibration model*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9eM3Wm.jpg)
Once printed, measure the distance from every edge from the build platform to the printed square. If you fail to print the square, please check the level of the platform; **this is also an excellent test for the level of your bed!**
The measurements should give you a notion of the offset of the bed. E.g. for the X-axis you measure a distance of 12 mm on the left and 8 mm on the right (when facing the printer) you can easily deduce that the center is (12 - 8)/2 = 2 mm to the right (positive X direction). This implies that the printer manufacturer has done a lousy job by delivering you a printer with an offset bed; better said incorrectly configured in their firmware. Note this is not uncommon!
How to fix this!
----------------
Once you quantified the offset, you want to be sure that your next print prints in the middle of the bed. How to proceed? Basically there are a couple of solutions you can use, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.
1. A simple solution (i.e. if the printer support this) is to adjust the position of the endstops. Alternatively you can print alternate endstop holders to match the position change as measured from the calibration print.
2. Another simple and popular solution is applying an **offset in the slicer**. You could do that in the printer options some of the available slicers. If such options are not available, you could add **G-code commands in the start code** to create the offset (e.g. `G1` X-2 moves to the left and `G92 X0` resets the X origin). Note that this is a quick fix and should be applied wisely. The printer does not know where the actual center is! You merely changed if after the homing sequence. Exchanging `.gcode` with fellow enthusiasts with the same printer may have adverse effects.
A far better solution is to fix the center in the firmware so that the printer knows the **actual** center. This requires some extra effort by uploading firmware (files including configuration settings) to the printer or send G-code commands. The latter option will be discussed first.
3. A prerequisite of this method is that it requires the [G-code command](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) `[M206](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes)` to be supported by your firmware; note that not all 3D printer firmware solutions are able to use this G-code command for axes offset definition. E.g. the stock Anet A8 runs a modified Repetier version that does not support `M206`, it would be time to upload a new firmware like e.g. [Marlin Firmware](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin) making this particular printer safer as the stock firmware does not include thermal runaway protection! See question: "[What is Thermal Runaway Protection?](/q/8466/)". To send G-code commands to a printer you have the option to hook up your computer to the printer over USB and use a 3D printer program that support sending commands to the printer (this is called a terminal; i.e. an interface to the printer). Programs like [PronterFace](http://www.pronterface.com/), [Repetier-Host](https://www.repetier.com/), [OctoPrint](https://octoprint.org/), and probably many more have such an interface. A simple alternative that works also is creating a text file (with `.gcode` extension) with the commands on separate lines and executing the "print". The following codes need to be sent: `M206` e.g. `M206 X-2 Y2` (move center left and to the back, note to use integer values, float values are not allowed!) and store this new center with `M500`.
The final, best solution is to set it fixed in the firmware. This requires an upload of a more recent configured version of an applicable firmware. See e.g. question: "[How to upload firmware to reprap printer?](/q/5848)". Note that there are different methods to upload a firmware to the board, it is best to search the internet for the applicable method for your board.
4. To do that you will have to be comfortable with computer software and tools to build source files and upload binary code to the printer. This depends on the type of firmware you choose and therefore cannot be described for each firmware in detail. Various sources on the internet describe this process. Generally speaking, it requires you to set the bed and offset values/positions correctly. For Marlin Firmware this comes down to changing the settings in the [configuration file](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h), this is similar in other firmware software solutions:
```
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 220
#define Y_BED_SIZE 220
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -35 ; used to be -33, so 2 mm shift to left now
#define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; used to be -10, so 2 mm shift to the back
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE
#define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE
#define Z_MAX_POS 240
```
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As to **why** this happens, particularly with a budget printer the end-stop mountings may not be particularly precisely located, or the moving part may actuate the endstop slightly differently in each build. In my case, replacing the hot end (and thus the whole carriage) gave me an offset of some cm. With this upgrade, it was impossible to retain the stock calibration since the extruder dimensions are quite different.
As to **how to fix it**, the easiest way for me was to modify the 'start g-code'. This fix only applies to the particular slicer, means that what I slice for my A8 won't be centred on the work maker-club Prusa, but doesn't need me to mess about with firmware or apply a per-model update.
After the Z-home operation, I already have a pre-extrude step. Prior to this, I set the actual position of what I want my homed point to be, using `G92`
```
M82 ; absolute extrusion mode
G28 ; home all
G92 X17 Y-12 ; re-define origin
G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/11 | 915 | 3,178 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm printing parts for a HEVO ([HyperCube Evolution](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2254103) CoreXY), using Colorfabb XT filament. After several successful prints. I'm having a lot of failed prints. They start off pretty well but after ~15 layers the filament starts to string and blob.
Printer details
```
Model: RepRap i3
Extruder: E3D 1.75 all metal hotend.
Nozzle: .4
Print temp: 260°C (max. recommended).
```
Steps I took to troubleshoot
1. First I thought my nozzle was clogged. But it's not I can push the filament by hand without issues.
2. Lowered the speed to 35 mm/s.
3. Disabled retraction / disabled part cooling.
4. increased the max temp with 10 % to ensure the filament flow
Printed parts that fail:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2wEjO.jpg "Top view printed part")
*Note: the two parts on the left are printed in one job*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1jure.jpg "Side view printed part")
UPDATE 26/07
Dit a few more prints with PETG to eliminate the moisture problem. Same results.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l6vj4.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GL1IF.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: This looks a lot like **under extrusion caused by heat creep**.
Heat creep is when the nozzle temperature 'creeps' up through the filament and makes it melt (a bit) and form a blob (or just widen enough to get stuck) a centimeter or two before the nozzle.
The characteristic is usually that everything works perfectly well for some quite fix amount of time, then there is severe under extrusion.
Solutions:
* Lower the temperature (yes, as then the heat won't creep as much!)
* Add a fan cooling down the cooling part of the print head
I have the same print head as you it seems (E3D 1.75 all metal) and I had heat creep when I changed the fan to a less noisy one (but also less effective).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This suggestion may not apply in your specific case (you seem to have looked closely at the problem, and it doesn't really fit the apparent time-dependence) but you might have an issue with the extrusion drive. If your hobbed drive isn't tight on the stepper motor then the 'push' might not be enough to match the force you've tested by hand. This explains one way that the extruder can be more sensitive to small performance variations than you would normally expect (heat build up somehow contributing to those variations).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I have a possible cause for my problems. XT is sensitive to moisture (hydrolytical stability) When I extruded 20mm filament manually, the string felt a bit rough. When I looked closer very tiny bubbels where visible. I baked the filament at 60°C for 2 hours.
The baked filament allowed me to print a perfect model.
But after one print the filament is again affected by moisture so I need to build a dry-box and do some more tests before I come to a conclusion.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/12 | 1,456 | 4,318 | <issue_start>username_0: I read something the other day about a guy who found a way to knock over completed prints with the printer head itself, then slide them to the edge of the build plate, where they fall into a box/basket. This allows printing several Eiffel Towers while you sleep for example. It doesn't work with skirts (duh), and the adhesion has to be just right not to wake up with a pile of spaghetti, but it still sounds useful.
Well, now I cannot re-find the description I read; does anyone know what this process is called? Is there an easy way I can perform such an end-of-print action on my CR-10 with a cura plugin? If such a thing takes a touch of end-time custom gcode, is there a proof of concept rough draft or demo I can start tinkering with? Any more info is helpful.<issue_comment>username_1: You could cool down the heated bed (with e.g. `[M109][1] R28`) and cool down the hotend (with e.g. `[M190][1] R40`). This will usually release the print from the plate, perform the actions to move the head (e.g. go to the largest X, Y position `G1 X{max} Y{max}`, move down `G1 Z10` to then move to minimum X, Y `G1 X0 Y0` position such that it sweeps the print to the origin) that it knocks it into the basket and start printing again by copy pasting the whole G-code beforehand a couple of times. Note that this all depends on the product you are printing. You should at least use the end code scripts for the specific tasks to cool down, and start scripts to heat up again.
You can write a Cura plugin to implement a new GUI item to copy the G-code multiple times or create a post processing plugin.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I would advice against it, or at least have some detection for when the object won't budge:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BbbjJ.jpg "Print damaged by impact")
Leaving a printer unattended needs special care too (fire alarm springs to mind but not only).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: For fun, from Thingiverse - [Automatic Print Ejector - The Punching Machine](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:872617).
There's even a video: [MatterHackers Punch-Out!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Viy928RLsdU)
Hover for a (slightly annoying) image:
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BerJJ.gif)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: ### Another method - shake it off
Taken from [Automatic 3D Print Removal using G-Code](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avlengYsJdw), by [Make Anything](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVc6AHfGw9b2zOE_ZGfmsnw)
In order to shake the completed print from the bed, you can use an *ending script*, like so:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPywh.png "Screenshot of ending script")
See the video at [2:45](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avlengYsJdw&t=165) for an explanation of the scripts, both starting and ending. Note that the starting script does *not* include a wipe (for purposes of a purge), as a brim is used, which acts as a purge.
The code is:
```
G1 X105 Y195 Z50 F3000; Move up and back
; Make some (alert) sounds
M300 S3520 P200 ; A7
M300 S4698.63 P200 ; D8
M300 S5274.04 P200 ; E8
M300 S6271.93 P200 ; G8
G1 X105 Y195 Z1 F3000 ; Lower
G1 X105 Y1 Z1 F2400 ; Remove print
G1 X105 Y30 Z1 F8000 ; Shake it out
G1 X105 Y1 Z1 F8000 ; Shake it out
G1 X105 Y30 Z1 F8000 ; Shake it out
;M106 S0 ; Turn off fan
;M104 S0 ; Turn off extruder
;M140 S0 ; Turn off bed
;M84 ; Disable motors
```
The guy is using an Anycubic i3 Mega, but this technique *should* work with most other printers.
---
### A note on the motor sounds
With respect to the alert sounds at the start of the ending script, there is a video for making the motors emit sounds and tunes, see [I Taught My 3D Printer How to Sing ( and Dance! )](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bdf9NHAuO0w) - using `G1`, `G4` and, principally, `M300`.
An example can be seen here, [the mii channel theme but it's played using a 3D printer ♪ ♫](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsH_oUaFmas).
See also [Writing G-code: Audible Alert at end of print](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/11056/4762).
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/14 | 777 | 2,931 | <issue_start>username_0: I have built a 3D printer from parts. It is using a standard 12V power supply, an Arduino Mega 2560 replica and a RAMPS 1.4 board. The hotend cooling fan is connected to the 12V-AUX pin (the one right next to the x axis stepper driver) on the RAMPS board so that it continuously receives power as long as the machine is turned on. The printer is controlled by the Marlin firmware.
When I give power to the board, the cooling fan starts spinning with a lot of noise. It sounds like it is receiving a higher amount of current than it should. Moreover, the noise is not steady, but fluctuates slightly. After about 30 seconds, it gets slightly quieter; after about 40-50 seconds, there is a sudden break. From then on, the fan spins quietly and regularly.
According to measurements with a multimeter, the power supply is keeping a constant and correct voltage of slightly over 12V right from the beginning. Hence, I suspect the issue is somewhere on the RAMPS board.
I am worried about this being more than a problem of unpleasant noisiness. What could be the cause and is there more to worry about?
You can listen to a recording of the sound: [3D printer hotend cooling fan noise](https://soundcloud.com/user-769347820/3d-printer-hotend-cooling-fan-noise/s-OizCr)
Note that I am not talking about a fan for cooling the extruded plastic, but the one sitting on the extruder heatsink.
---
Shutting down the printer (even literally unplugging the power supply) and plugging it back in does not lead to the startup noise appearing again. Only when waiting for multiple minutes before reconnecting does it happen again.
The voltage to the fan is measured to be constant. The current, on the other hand, correlates with the sounds heard. It starts at 110 - 115 mA. When the fan is quiet, it is at about 90 mA.<issue_comment>username_1: I propose examining the current voltage of the motor and the arm. The fluctuation of voltage causes the noise.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Now that you have done some measurements, you could make some conclusions.
>
> The voltage over the fan is reported to be constant, but the current
> starts at 110-115 mA and reduces to 90 mA over time.
>
>
>
With limited knowledge of electronics you can conclude that the resistance of the fan is not constant as the resistance determines the amount of current through the fan. So the fan resistance increases over time. This could just be a manufacturing problem or characteristics of the fan. You could try to replace the fan with another fan to see if this fixes your problem.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Late to the party but still...
The noise could be caused by the lubrication of the fan ...when you turn on the fan, the lubrication is seated down. As the fan spins, the lubrication gets all over the bearing thus centering the fan reducing the vibrations aka noise.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/14 | 2,796 | 9,306 | <issue_start>username_0: I got myself the Ender 3. The Home position is about 1 mm left and 2 mm in front of the front left corner. Now, the hotend center axis is 11 mm from the carrier plate with the "Mk 10" cooler mounted right onto a pair of 5 mm pegs that are part of the plate. As I want to change to an e3D v6, which has a diameter of 22 mm, I will have to move out some distance (ca. 13 mm) to the current Z axis. This means, that any Y command will be off by this distance.
**How do I reconfigure the Home position to have an offset to the 0-positions gained from the limit switches?**
According to Repetier Host it runs on **Marlin 1.0**. Creality offers the firmware on [their website](https://www.creality3d.cn/download/firmware_c0001) as a **.hex** file - which is hard to edit.<issue_comment>username_1: When homing the printer, the hot end carriage will be instructed to hit the (mechanical or optical) end stops. From this point a well configured firmware knows where to find the origin of the heat bed.
For the printer to know the origin of the bed, offsets are defined in the firmware from the end stop locations to the actual origin of the heat bed.
E.g. in Marlin Firmware this is defined by
```
#define X_MIN_POS -35 ; move the head 35 mm to the right to place the
; nozzle at X = 0
#define Y_MIN_POS -8 ; move the head 8 mm to the back (or the plate
; forward) to place the nozzle at Y = 0
```
When you change the hardware (e.g. carriage), you need to re-calibrate the movement from the end stop location to the origin of the bed. Note that any arbitrary point on the heat bed can be used to re-calibrate this. E.g. the center of the bed can also be used, and is frequently much more easy to re-calibrate as the heated beds usually have rounded corners or are slightly larger than the actual print area (e.g. I have a 300 x 300 mm heat bed that actually measures 315 x 315 mm). Printing a large square on the heat bed will therefore give you a good impression of the offset of the nozzle due to your new carriage design.
Note that, if you cannot or will not flash new firmware, an alternative solution exists to set new incremental offset values using the [`M206`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes) command **IF** [your current firmware supports](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M206:_Offset_axes) this.
A detailed description to re-calibrate is found in answer [How to center my prints on the build platform?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6376/5740) or in external link [Bed center calibration](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2280529).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: *Following on from username_1's answer*
---
To change or obtain your EEPROM settings you need to open Repetier Host (for Linux or Windows, v2.1.3 - the OSX version I tried, v1.1.0, didn't seem to have this functionality).
### To change existing settings
From [How to make changes to the EEPROM data](https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/4641/how-to-make-changes-to-the-eeprom-data). Apparently there is an EEPROM editor available (in Repetier Host). From [this post](https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/18712/#Comment_18712):
>
> If you see it in eeprom editor just change them. If it is repetier-firmware based it will store changes in eeprom on pressing "ok".
>
>
>
### To retrieve existing settings
[This post](https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/comment/2817/#Comment_2817) from [retrieval of existing settings...](https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/933/retrieval-of-existing-settings), shows how:
>
> To copy eeprom data:
>
>
> * Connect with host
> * Open eeprom settings
> * Select export eeprom settings. That saves all data in a epr file and you can later use import eepsom settings to rewrite it.
>
>
>
An example of the resulting file is shown in the question, [Help with Repetier firmware variables (Dimension Dual Delta - J Group Robotics)](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4184/help-with-repetier-firmware-variables-dimension-dual-delta-j-group-robotics), a sample of which I have included below:
```
Language
Baudrate
Filament printed [m]
Printer active [s]
Max. inactive time [ms,0=off]
```
---
However, you would appear to have to be running Repetier firmware for these two solutions to work, and not Marlin (but I may be wrong).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: [username_2](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762/greenonline) and I spent this evening hacking/reverse engineering the Ender3 to solve this. [username_2 also wrote about this in his blog](https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2018/08/13/compiling-marlin-for-a-creality-ender-3/).
Step 1 - Get the Firmware
-------------------------
To do this, there are basically two ways:
1. Find the a ready-to-use firmware
2. Make your own
Variant 1 would be to use the pre-supplied .hex files from Creality or some other manufacturer. Variant 2 means writing the settings yourself or using [Repetier firmware](https://www.repetier.com/firmware/v100/) to write the files for you. In the case of the Ender 3, the chip used sadly disqualified Repetier firmware, so writing it yourself is the only option.
To write the firmware yourself or using Repetier firmware, you need the old settings. To get these, connect the printer via USB, connect it with a software like [Repetier host](https://www.repetier.com/) and send [`M503`](http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M503.html) to get all the settings.
Now, either hack those into Repetier firmware or use a blank [`Marlin.ino`](http://marlinfw.org/meta/download/) and the Arduino IDE to customise it. In the later case, you need to put the folder `Marlin-?.?.X.ZIP/Marlin-?.?.X/Marlin` into the `Arduino` folder in Documents (Windows) or Home (Mac). Now open the `Marlin.ino` in [Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software). Set up the new firmware with these base settings or adjust as needed.
Step 2 - Adjust
---------------
Now that we have our Configuration files (in the end we pretty much skipped step 1 and [grabbed a fitting (**German!**) one](https://www.chaos-drucker.de/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Marlin-Ender3-V1.zip) from [Christian](https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/), a German maker also known as "Chaos-Drucker"), we need to first adjust them as needed to fit our needs and then compile them properly (next step!). As an alternative (**English!**) base to work with, the [TH3D firmware](https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/th3d-unified-firmware/?seq_no=10) is also available, provided by the Hooglands and team at TH3D.
So, let's open your `Marlin.ino` with [arduino](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software) and find the `X_MIN_POS` (`CTRL`+`F` > `X_MIN_POS` > Search all sketches).
In the configurations we grabbed the sketch file `Configuration.h` contains lines 786-789 *(might differ)*:
```
// Travel limits (mm) after homing, corresponding to endstop positions.
#define X_MIN_POS -10
#define Y_MIN_POS -15
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
```
Adjust these till the wanted position is achieved - Repetier Host can help here to determine the right position.
Step 3 - Compile
----------------
The hardest step with the Ender3 was to get the code to actually compile, as it uses an [ATmega1284P 16Bit](http://www.technoblogy.com/show?19OV) which isn't supported by Arduino natively. While the [MightyCore](https://github.com/MCUdude/MightyCore) supports this chip, it doesn't compile with this hardware library. However, Christian did figure out that the [Sanguino](https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino) set to an ATmega 1284P 16bit does work. These belong as *extracted folders* into the `Arduino/hardware` folder, usually in your Documents (if you use Windows) or Home (on mac). Now, we did set `Tools>Board:> Sanguino` and `Tools>Processor:>ATmega1284 or ATmega1284P (16 MHz)`
It was also mandatory to have the [U8glib.h for Arduino](https://github.com/olikraus/U8glib_Arduino) installed. To do this, download the zip from github, then in the Arduino software `Sketch>Include Library>Add .ZIP Library...` and choose the whole zip repository to auto install.
With these settings we were able to compile the settings.
Step 4 - Getting it on the machine
----------------------------------
Most people would expect to read about bootloaders and flashing now, and indeed that is an option. But as I had just figured out [how to install firmware from .hex](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6654/how-to-install-a-hex-firmware) and so I wondered: Can't we make .hex files from our settings? And yes, [Arduino supports this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6658/8884).
So, in Arduino IDE press `Ctrl`+`Alt`+`S` (or `Sketch > Export Compiled Binary`). This will result in two files:
* `Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex`
* `Marlin.ino.with_bootloader.sanguino.hex`
Of these two, the `Marlin.ino.sanguino.hex` is the interesting one for "direct flashing" via CURA. Use this file with the process starting at Step 2 [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6655/8884) or use one of [username_2's solutions](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6656/8884) to get the firmware flashed - no bootloader needed!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/07/16 | 826 | 3,104 | <issue_start>username_0: I am wondering if this piece of G-code is valid:
```
G0 (Some comment (Its G0 command)) Y10 Z-5
```
I have tested this on my Chinese CNC machine and it strips out the comment and works flawlessly.
The machine processes this as `G0Y10Z-5` which seems like the correct approach to me.
I have however never seen such comment in real CNC practise.
It would be nice if anyone is able to test it out on their CNC/3D Printer.
Many G-code simulators on the internet fail to process such a line in their parser so it makes me confused. I haven't found anything about it on RepRap Wiki or even Google.<issue_comment>username_1: This is not universally valid G-code, and how it is handled depends on the implementation. You can use this style of comment on *some* machines, but not all.
The way parsing used to be implemented in Marlin (a very common 3D printer firmware), it would work fine unless the comment string included a X, Y, Z, E or F character. The parser simply looks for the first occurrence of X/Y/Z/E/F and then tries to parse the bit of text appearing after that character into a number. If the string cannot be parsed as a number, it defaults to 0 instead. For example,
```
G0 (Some comment containing the character Y) Y10 Z-5
```
would be interpreted as `G0 Y0 Z-5` and not as `G0 Y10 Z-5`, because ") " (the string appearing after the first occurrence of "Y") does not parse to any valid number. Your example happens to work fine because the comment string doesn't contain any special characters.
Marlin does support end-of-line comments, which should start with a semicolon and continue until the end of the line.
This is how it used to work in older Marlin versions. Newer Marlin versions have a more advanced parser, but it still would not play well with these parentheses-style comments. It is best to avoid them, as compatibility is not guaranteed.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: It looks like comments inside parentheses are not allowed in numerous parsers (ie. Marlin). This seems to be true for most of the 3D printers. Classical CNC milling machines use parentheses without problems.
It should work on Prusa printers as stated in their [Wiki](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#Comments). Unfortunately there are no words about nesting of the comments.
I have however found a comment on cnczone.com forums regarding the nesting of comments within parentheses.
>
> Printable characters and white space inside parentheses is a comment. A left parenthesis always starts a comment. The comment ends at the first right parenthesis found thereafter.
>
>
> Once a left parenthesis is placed on a line, a matching right parenthesis must appear before the end of the line.
>
>
> Comments may not be nested; it is an error if a left parenthesis is found after the start of a comment and before the end of the comment.
>
>
> Here is an example of a line containing a comment: `G80 M5 (stop motion)`
>
>
>
Source: [cnczone.com](https://www.cnczone.com/forums/g-code-programing/103434-coments-g-code.html#post763510)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/07/16 | 1,363 | 5,399 | <issue_start>username_0: Scenario: I'm cruising [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/), and I find the awesomest thing. I NEED THIS IN MY LIFE. I download it, print it, and for whatever reason, it doesn't work quite right. OK, no big deal, I'll just download the source because the maker was so kind, modify it ever so slightly, and I will have the most awesomest thing evar!
Several hours later, I realized that I could have designed it from scratch in a software that is way more user friendly, deterministic, simpler, etc.
And then I **do** redesign it. From scratch. Maybe taking a measurement or two from the thing, or something related to the thing. And I refine it, and it turns out better than the original was.
Did I make a new thing? Did I only draw inspiration from the previous thing? Did I make a derivative work? Using Thingiverse's terminology, did I remix it?
I'm looking for some canonical guidelines to refer to for the US. Thingiverse can be an example, but god answers should not be limited to Thingiverse, nor my specific example.
I ran into this issue while trying to print out a case for a Raspberry Pi Zero. I'm not done redesigning it, but I've been wondering how I could share it on Thingiverse, and if any restrictions from the original model's licensing might affect me when I post my thing.<issue_comment>username_1: When you remix, either by modifying the existing CAD files (STL or sCAD or whatever), or by rebuilding essentially the same item from scratch, that **is** a remix and subject to whatever restrictions the original author put on his work.
So the critical issue so far as copyright is concerned is whether the output is a clear copy or remix. No different from taking someone's novel and rewriting it using Notepad++ and LaTeX instead of the original Microsoft World.
Now, when remix or reuse is allowed by the originator, it is still incumbent upon you to provide proper attribution, just as you would provide footnotes and bibliography so as to avoid plagiarism in a research paper.
All that said, you are free to do whatever you wish in "the privacy of your own home" (IANAL and laws vary by location, but the chance that the copyright holder will track you down because you have a widget in your bedroom are nil). You can't publish or sell, of course w/o permission.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I should start by saying that I am not a lawyer. I have been both the complainant and defendant in patent cases, and have had the role of observing copyright compliance for a performing arts organization. With that in mind, the following is my own opinion and information.
---
Ultimately, there is no simple answer to your question. It would depend on the case law that applies to 3D printed objects, which is not very clear. You are venturing into Copyright law, which is very different than Patent law.
For example, if someone had a patent on "A Raspberry PI case with a ", and you made a case with that feature, you would be in infringement. It wouldn't matter if the case looked like the original, or was completely different. If it included that patented invention, you would be more likely to lose if challenged in court. The one thing about patent court prosecutions is that it is really rare that anyone actually "wins". The cost to put forward a case is very high, and usually someone runs out of money (sometimes even the "good guy") before a decision is reached.
Copyright is much harder and softer at the same time. Copyright can relate to the design feel of an object -- such as rounded vs. square, or using a trash can vs recycle bin icon. Prosecuting a copyright violation of this kind would require that the aggrieved rights holder demonstrate that the design was copied, or at least derived in an unpermitted way, from the original work. This is often more a matter of opinion than law, which is why the lawyers matter, as well as the judge and potential jury.
Technically, you are not free to do whatever you wish in the privacy of your own home. You are much less like to be detected and then prosecuted, and the penalties would be lower, but you are just as much in violation if you make one for your own use or sell them by the millions.
The best way to handle it, if you are prepared for possible adverse reaction from the original designer, is to ask them for permission. You can say ask for clearance to use, such as by saying:
>
>
> >
> > I loved your object on Thingiverse. I plan to . Although I didn't copy your design, I would like to acknowledge that I saw your design before doing my own. How shall I do that?
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Your next steps will depend on how they respond. Most likely, they will either give you free leave to do as you wish, or they will ask for something.
This happens a great deal in music, and expensive and acromonious problems have developed over who actually composed a particular guitar riff. You can pick up the ["Stairway to Heaven" case here](https://www.google.com/search?q=stairway%20to%20heaven%20copyright%20case&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS753US753&oq=stairway%20to%20heaven%20copyright%20case&aqs=chrome..69i57.5643j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8). If you are doing this commercially, it is better to negotiate ahead of time. If you are putting your object back on Thingiverse for sharing, I'd just identify it as derivative an get on with life.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/17 | 918 | 3,198 | <issue_start>username_0: I noticed that my version of Ultimaker Cura was out of date, so I tried to go to [their website](https://ultimaker.com) and download a new version. For whatever reason, I could not get the [download link](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/download-request/191) to work properly in Firefox with a slew of security extensions.
Where are reputable mirrors for Cura?
Download.Cnet.com and Sourceforge [came up as sources](https://duckduckgo.com/?q=download%20cura&t=ffsb&ia=web), but years ago they both [went to the darkside](http://insecure.org/news/download-com-fiasco.html) (SourceForge: [HowToGeek](https://www.howtogeek.com/218764/warning-don%E2%80%99t-download-software-from-sourceforge-if-you-can-help-it/), [thecomputerpeeps](https://thecomputerpeeps.com/2013/08/sourceforge-malware/)). I don't see anything else that looks even remotely reputable in the search results.
I did some analysis, and it appears that the drop down and form don't work correctly if you select "I don't want to share any personal information", leading me to think this is web page bug.<issue_comment>username_1: Cura is a software tool developed by Ultimaker for 3D printers. There is a downloadable page for this tool: <https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list>. There is no restriction to download it.
I'm using Firefox on all my PC's and it can be downloaded with no problems, even if I'm using Windows XP, the main PC works at full speed with 3D models.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The answer to your question is: **"From the application developer itself!"**.
Below is the explanation how you can (directly) download Ultimaker Cura from the most reputable source: Ultimaker.com
---
Regular download
----------------
When clicking the [link to download](http://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list) of the Cura application download button from the [Ultimaker website](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software) you are presented with a pop-up GUI that asks you if you want to share where you are using the program for. When you select the required field and press download, the download starts. If this doesn't work, a direct download approach can be used.
Direct download
---------------
If the regular download method fails, or you do not get the pop-up GUI, you can use the direct link for Ultimaker Cura from the developer's website:
<https://download.ultimaker.com/cura/Ultimaker_Cura-4.1.0-win64.exe>
This link can be found at the download directory at the website:
<https://download.ultimaker.com/current/>
This web directory overview also shows all previous releases and installers for other platforms.
As of version 3.6.0, the download does not appear to be in the list, this link will show an overview: <https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software/list>
Do note that the latter link will show the pop-up.
*As of version 4.1, the web directory overview link will serve a 404.*
### Github
The Ultimaker Cura Project has a Github, where they offer the current and previous editions under:
<https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tags>
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer] |
2018/07/18 | 2,350 | 7,363 | <issue_start>username_0: Problem: Z-Axis doesn't work during a print. It attempts to work, maybe climbs on the Z-Axis, but screws back down. It whines, too. But, Z-Axis DOES work while not printing. It doesn't matter if the bed and nozzle heating or not, if it's not printing, it works as it should. I don't know what else I can do to troubleshoot this problem.
I have:
* Changed the Ramps 1.4 board twice
* Swapped drivers around, bought new drivers
* Swapped X-Axis and Z-Axis motor connections
* Cleaned threaded rod.
* Leveled two Z-Axis threaded rod riders to near atomic perfection.
* Changed firmware to each of the 3 latest updates
* Remounted motor so both face same cardinal direction
* Cursed
* Changed jumper configurations from 16th microstepper to 8th for more power. No dice. Fried two drivers that way.
* Dialed and redial and tridialed and quaddialed the driver pots
* Recalled the Z-motors work while not printing so it isn't the driver pots
* Cursed again
* Scoured the web for similar issues
* Looked for G-code that might limit Z-Axis elevation
* Died a little. Just a little
Hardware:
* RepRap Guru DIY Prusa i3 V2 3D Printer Kit
* Ramps 1.4
* A4988 Driver
* Firmware:
+ Marin 1.1.8,
- 1.1.7 (screen didn't function),
- 1.1.6 (screen didn't function),
+ RepRapGuru\_Marlin\_v4,
+ RepRapGuru\_Marlin\_v2
Additional information:
* My power supply is the original 12 V 360 W supply with the kit.
+ The 5 amp power in is 12.02 V, the 11 amp power port is 11.96 V and 12.18 V depending on which heater is on.
+ The bed measures 11.50 V and the hotend is 3.4 V
* While heating the bed and hotend I am using the LCD screen and rotary encoder to move my axes. It works as expected until printing. I have upgraded to an aluminum 12/24 V hotbed from the original PCB.
* Currently getting Repetier. Will update.
* The z-axis leadscrew is M5-0.8 mm<issue_comment>username_1: I would check the gcode you're generating to make sure it's not full of "bad" z-commands.
Further, I'd take any gcode file you have and manually edit it, leaving in all the initializations, heatings, zeroing, etc., and then delete everything except some z-motion commands. Run that as a test case to see what happens.
I think it's extremely unlikely that the gantry has enough mass to force the z-screws to counter-rotate (lowering the gantry), and you'd see that with power off in any case.
edit
----
As username_2 discovered, a [bad choice of lead screw](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#comment5535_4038) might cause the behavior you're seeing. It would be a bit scary if a stock kit such as the one you bought provided high-pitch Z-screws. Better check that out!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: From [your comment](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6421/z-axis-doesnt-work-only-during-printing#comment9763_6421)
>
> the z-axis leadscrew is m5-.8
>
>
>
I presume that your lead is 8 mm? You don't state whether it is a threaded rod or a leadscrew, so I will presume that it is a leadscrew.
If so, then I would suggest that you choose a different leadscrew, one with a lesser lead, say 2 mm or 4 mm. This is because, for a 8 mm lead, the stepper motor has to lift the X-axis gantry by 8 mm upon one rotation, which requires four times the amount of work that would be required to lift the X-axis gantry by just 2 mm if a rod with a 2 mm lead is used.
So you need to either:
* Change/upgrade your stepper motors to ons with more torque, or;
* Change the rods, for some with a smaller lead.
Depending where you are in the world, one option may be cheaper than the other.
*If you are going to upgrade your rods*, then change from a [threaded rod](https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod) (if you are using one), to a [leadscrew](https://reprap.org/wiki/Threaded_rod#Leadscrew), as they are much better quality, have less friction, more precision and less wobble. However, you may also have to change your [rotary] fittings, i.e. the nut that goes around the rod - although you would have to do that anyway if you change your threaded rod for one with a lesser lead. Also, many threaded rods, and leadscrews, come with the rotary fittings included.
Also, you state that your threaded rod/leadscrew is M5. Again, if you are going to have to change it, it might also be worth changing from M5 to M8, see [Lead screws - M8 instead of M5?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5589/lead-screws-m8-instead-of-m5?rq=1)
---
For a more in depth explanation, see [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#4038) to the question, [Would using a leadscrew with 1 or 2 mm lead, en lieu of 8 mm, result in a better printer?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better) Here are some highlights:
>
> A more aggressive leadscrew will require more torque to drive. We have one kit printer we bought a couple years ago that has an overly aggressive multi-start leadscrew for the z-axis. The small motors included in the kit do not have the torque required to reliably start upward movement of the carriage, leaving it sitting there skipping steps until the carriage is given a little upward nudge to get it going (no, it's not a lubrication issue or a driver that needs turning up).
>
>
>
and
>
> (As Tom [points out](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4031/would-using-a-leadscrew-with-1-or-2-mm-lead-en-lieu-of-8-mm-result-in-a-better/4038#comment5535_4038)) An 8 mm lead can result in the weight of the X-axis gantry (especially in a P3Steel) overcoming the idle torque of the stepper. As a result of this, the X-axis gantry can end up sliding down the leadscrew, in particular at power down
>
>
>
---
Note that there is a difference between *pitch* and *lead*:
* **Pitch** is the distance between adjacent grooves on the rod, whereas;
* **Lead** is the distance travelled along the rod upon one rotation
The difference depends upon the number of leads, or *starts* that your threaded rod has.
From [What is the difference between screw pitch and lead?](https://www.thomsonlinear.com/website/com/eng/training/difference_between_screw_pitch_and_lead.php)
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QHdqn.png "Pitch versus Lead")
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: username_1, I think you are on to something with rogue commands limiting the Z-Axis. Thank you for pressing me to try a new program. Now I need to learn it...
So, it works now. The only difference is that I am printing from Repitier using Cora instead of using Slicer to make g-code for an SD card. While, I am happy with the results, I am dissapointed that I still don't *KNOW* the source of the issue. There must be some command from stock Slicer causing issues.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same issue with an Ender 3.
The threaded rod was not lubricated enough. Adding some lithium grease, applying it evenly, and moving the Z-axis from top to bottom multiple times fixed the issue.
I had to recalibrate the Z-offset after that.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/19 | 1,201 | 4,710 | <issue_start>username_0: I made a few successful prints since I got my CR-10 two weeks ago and I didn't run into any major trouble. The printer is new.
Today I set it to "preheat" mode while I was preparing the SD card with the settings being 210°C for the nozzle and 60°C for the bed. When I wanted to start the print I noticed that the temperature showed as "actual temperature" on the printer's screen showed 233°C and it was going up steadily while the "requested" temperature was still 210°C.
Thiking it might be a mis-manipulation on my part I powered it down for a few minutes (I got scared by the high-temp) and then powered it back on. I then immediately requested the print to start. The CR-10 heated up to the proper value, started printing and kept heating the nozzle. I stopped it at 217°C.
I looked for an answer on the internet but all I could find is people having trouble with the nozzle not heating at all ...<issue_comment>username_1: This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value. If the firmware is not able to keep the temperature at the requested level, but goes beyond that level, that could be considered "strange". As it measures the temperature (and reports it on your display) it must know that it is over the limit and thus should not power the hotend.
In this process there are a few possible candidates for you to look at:
* Check for a faulty [MOSFET](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET) (sort of an electronic switch) on your controller board (is it leaking current to the hotend?).
* Check and or update the current settings for the [PID](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller) values (settings for the control loop of the hotend). The PID values control the overshoot of the temperature. E.g. is this is very large overshoot? When incorrectly configured the temperature can get higher, but normally should never increase to infinity, are you sure it keeps rising? The determination of the new values is called [PID tuning](https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning). Important commands (that need to be send over a USB connected printer with a 3D printer terminal application like Repetier Host, OctoPrint or Pronterface):
+ The [M503](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings) [G-code](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) command shows the current settings (somewhere in the heap of all settings).
+ The [M303](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning) [G-code](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) command can determine the values.
* Reflash the firmware
* Replace the printer controller board
You could replace the thermistor and the heater cartridge (just to be sure, most definitely not the problem, but they are really cheap to replace). The thermistor works as it reports the temperature, and the heater element doesn't get powered by itself.
As suggested below **the most likely candidate for your problem is the MOSFET**. These are pretty easy to replace (depending on your board) or replaceable by an external MOSFET module (if you happen to have one lying around).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.
---
Actually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then added a multimeter in series with my power supply and the load, also a voltmeter across the voltage regulator. I then corrected every motor driver DRV8825 to a reference voltage of 0.6 V so that the maximum current supplied to each of the motor will be less than 1 A. All these made my circuit checked ok. Then I uploaded the G-code, but I couldn't print because my extruder gets heated about 280 °C and got reset and suddenly shut down the extruder supply. This continues to happen.
Then I reinstalled the Marlin firmware and I also changed the port of my thermistor. Now my 3D printer is ok and prints nicely. I also faced another problem while I gave the print command - it showed that the extruder and bed had started heating but it actually was not heating. So I reinstalled the firmware again and this fixed it. Now my 3D printer works OK. You just try for these steps:
1. Check the connection.
2. Reinstall the firmware.
3. Try manually preheat the extruder, and just see whether it heats to infinity.
These are my working experience please try for these, I think it will help you. Just don't leave it you will get the solution. Keep on trying.
Upvotes: -1 |
2018/07/21 | 1,066 | 4,168 | <issue_start>username_0: I am searching for 3D printing filaments, that are suitable for outdoor purposes, but printable on unheated beds.
I will mostly use it for sensor node enclosures (should withstand temperature up to 50°C/120°F) and car accessories (70°C/160°F).
If it requires annealing, it should have low shrinkage, since I will be printing parts that will fit into each other.<issue_comment>username_1: This is not an easy one to solve, the firmware of the printer should be keeping the printer at a certain temperature depending on the temperature setting and the current value. If the firmware is not able to keep the temperature at the requested level, but goes beyond that level, that could be considered "strange". As it measures the temperature (and reports it on your display) it must know that it is over the limit and thus should not power the hotend.
In this process there are a few possible candidates for you to look at:
* Check for a faulty [MOSFET](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET) (sort of an electronic switch) on your controller board (is it leaking current to the hotend?).
* Check and or update the current settings for the [PID](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller) values (settings for the control loop of the hotend). The PID values control the overshoot of the temperature. E.g. is this is very large overshoot? When incorrectly configured the temperature can get higher, but normally should never increase to infinity, are you sure it keeps rising? The determination of the new values is called [PID tuning](https://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning). Important commands (that need to be send over a USB connected printer with a 3D printer terminal application like Repetier Host, OctoPrint or Pronterface):
+ The [M503](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings) [G-code](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) command shows the current settings (somewhere in the heap of all settings).
+ The [M303](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning) [G-code](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) command can determine the values.
* Reflash the firmware
* Replace the printer controller board
You could replace the thermistor and the heater cartridge (just to be sure, most definitely not the problem, but they are really cheap to replace). The thermistor works as it reports the temperature, and the heater element doesn't get powered by itself.
As suggested below **the most likely candidate for your problem is the MOSFET**. These are pretty easy to replace (depending on your board) or replaceable by an external MOSFET module (if you happen to have one lying around).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A similar condition occurred in my 3D printer. I solved the same. I checked all my connection and I came to know that I connected the thermistor of the extruder in the wrong port. So just check the connection of your thermistor.
---
Actually my 3D printer circuit board frequently failed because of over current. I then added a multimeter in series with my power supply and the load, also a voltmeter across the voltage regulator. I then corrected every motor driver DRV8825 to a reference voltage of 0.6 V so that the maximum current supplied to each of the motor will be less than 1 A. All these made my circuit checked ok. Then I uploaded the G-code, but I couldn't print because my extruder gets heated about 280 °C and got reset and suddenly shut down the extruder supply. This continues to happen.
Then I reinstalled the Marlin firmware and I also changed the port of my thermistor. Now my 3D printer is ok and prints nicely. I also faced another problem while I gave the print command - it showed that the extruder and bed had started heating but it actually was not heating. So I reinstalled the firmware again and this fixed it. Now my 3D printer works OK. You just try for these steps:
1. Check the connection.
2. Reinstall the firmware.
3. Try manually preheat the extruder, and just see whether it heats to infinity.
These are my working experience please try for these, I think it will help you. Just don't leave it you will get the solution. Keep on trying.
Upvotes: -1 |
2018/07/21 | 836 | 3,107 | <issue_start>username_0: Is hot glue suitable for FDM printing, or some process similar to it?
I think it has all of the required properties, and could produce a flexible transluscent print. It's cheap, hotends are cheap, and the technology has been around for a while.
I couldn't find any examples or anyone talking about such a material for use, on here or the general Internet. I wonder if there are tradeoffs or challenges that make it not worth pursuing.<issue_comment>username_1: You could mount a hot glue gun to a 3D positioning frame, but you would immediately notice the following:
* Hot glue sticks are fat, so you lose a lot of precision for each feed/retract increment. I.e., it's a lot harder to get precise feeds with a fat stick because the stick size is so much larger than the nozzle.
* Hot glue sticks are short, so you would to create a filament to spool the stuff or come up with a glue stick feeder.
* Hot glue melts at 120 °C and common plastics such as nylon melt at much higher temperatures. So hot glue would make an AWFUL structural part like a stepper mount. Even PLA barely deals with stepper temperatures. Note that temperature tolerance is irrelevant for costume parts.
* Hot glue is soft, which makes it a great glue, but not very stiff for, say, making parts for a 3D printer. However, the parts might be fine for use only in costumes, etc.
But, if you then used your 3D glue printer to dispense glue for gluing stuff together, well...that might be valuable. :D
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I think not. Unless you intend to make a very special printer that feeds on glue stick, you must make filament from it. Should be doable.
But my experience with cold hot glue, is that it is not very durable. It's a bit elastic but nothing like elastic filament. It breaks instead. So when you have your filament, I think you will have a bit of trouble handling it, feeding it into the printer etc. If you, for instance, clog the nozzle the slightest, the extruder will tear the filament to shreds very quickly.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Yes, we have Hyrel users who print with Hot Melt Adhesive 3796 from 3M (essentially a high performance hot glue) with our Krakatoa series print heads.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Qdcx.png)
These heads don't print with filament; the user fills a metal reservoir with paste, gel, or even powder or granules, loads the reservoir onto the head, loads the head onto the printer, applies heat if necessary (some models up to 250C), and then prints the gcode with positive displacement. The KR2 is like the KRA above, but it is made specifically for higher temperature, higher viscosity materials, with tighter tolerances and multiple gaskets.
I have used this model head to print materials including hot glue, polycaprolactone, porcelain, vasoline, toothpaste, plasticine, and metal clays.
See <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD2FrZ4kg1g> for an overview of this head.
Note: I sell this equipment, and have used it since 2012.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/21 | 877 | 3,462 | <issue_start>username_0: I own a DIY Hypercube Evolution equipped with Tevo Titan extruder, Clone Chimera hotend and Capricorn's High-temp PTFE tube. I use RAMPS with Mega and A4988's.
During prints, my extruder motor randomly clicks. I touched the filament and during the clicks I'ven't felt any problems with extrusion. I looked at the motor shaft to control if it clicks at special angles or randomly, but it clicks randomly. My prints do look very good: clear and shiny.
Do you have any suggestions? (the sound really gives me headache)<issue_comment>username_1: Even though you may have acceptable extrusion, any clicking from that area of your printer is likely to be a missed step on the extruder motor. This may be insignificant with respect to print quality, but as you suggest, it is an irritation.
If you are confident that your nozzle is clean of debris (which is likely), you could consider to raise the nozzle temperature a few degrees. If the nozzle is not applying enough heat to the filament, it may resist being forced through and a click representing a delay, allows that much more heat to be applied.
You should not have to increase by much, certainly no more than five degrees. It's also possible that you can slow the feed rate a bit to accomplish a similar result.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If an extra few degrees of heating the hot end does not work, you could try to increase the amount of Ampere through the steppers. Increasing the current will increase the torque of the stepper.
The question is what your current Vref of your extruder stepper driver is. To get a [maximum current](https://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board) of 1 Ampere you require a Vref of 0.4 V if you have genuine Polulu A4988 stepper drivers with a 0.05 Ω (Rs). Chinese drivers often have a different sensing resistor (Rs = 0.1 Ω). With formula:
`Vref = I_TripMax * 8 * Rs`
You can then calculate the Vref to be 1 \* 8 \* 0.1 = 0.8 V.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: One thing or another limits (controls) the flow form the nozzle. in ideal operating conditions, the molten/softened plastic is kept in a small pool in the nozzle, without high pressure, and responsive to pressure by flowing from the nozzle. The plastic must be viscous and self-adhering enough that gravity and residual pressure on the melt will not be sufficient to draw the plastic out.
If the plastic is too stiff, such as through not being at a high enough temperature, as the filament is fed by the extruder the pressure will increase until the pressure is high enough to force plastic from the nozzzle. The plastic that is being fed by the extruder elastically compresses to generate the pressure. Hooke's law in action. This causes a delay at the beginning of extrusion, and a continuation of extrusion at the end. The elastic "wind up" of the filament gives us the delay. A printer in this mode will appear to work pretty well. It may require higher "retraction" lengths to unload the pressure.
If this is the operating mode, the filament outflow rate may be less than the rate at which filament is passing through the extruder. Pressure continuallly increases until the extruder motor has insufficient torque, at which point it skips. The pressure is not reduced very much by the skip, and plastic continues to flow, lowering the pressure until the extruder can again advance the filament.
It might be worth increasing the temperature.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/21 | 1,283 | 4,822 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to modify some parts on [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115095) thing. I'm kind of new to dealing with the modeling aspects of this.
I am attempting to widen the part essentially 3mm. This would involve modifying the chain segments, and the anchor points.
I have already attempted this with 3D Builder and the result was less than stellar. I split the part, cloned off about 3mm of the middle of the X-Chain (including the top & bottom bits). The intent was to break the part, translate one of the halves off 3mm, add back the 3mm into the gap.
When I put all the parts back together and merged them in 3D Builder, the resultant model, while visually on screen appeared to be one piece, the slicing proved otherwise.
Is there a way that I can do the above in FreeCAD? I'm learning this so tutorial links would be more than sufficient. But if there is someone who can explain this process to me in FreeCAD that would also be appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: When you want to change an STL file in FreeCAD then this is how I do it. I open the STL file in FreeCAD and select the option in the `Part`/`Component` sub-menu: `Make a form from mesh` (hope that I translated it well. I use the Dutch version). It can take quite some time but when it is finished you have an editable object. Just remove the STL object and do what you want.
When you finished then you can perform all actions like if you created it from scratch with FreeCAD.
I am a beginner in 3D design so there might be 'smarter' solutions. When I want 1 special part then I create as many cubes as needed and perform a MINUS action on the solid and a cube. After a while I end up with only the part I need.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I found that the answer provided by @username_1 was helpful but not the correct answer I was looking for.
Here is the general approach I used (Based on [this](https://open-shelf.appspot.com/FreeCAD/en-US/34.html)).
1. Create new document
2. Import STL file
3. Switch to Part workbench
4. Select imported mesh
5. Part -> Create Shape from Mesh (use default tolerance)
6. Delete imported mesh
7. Select shape
8. Part -> Refine Shape
9. Delete "unrefined" shape
10. Select refined shape
11. Part -> Convert to Solid
12. Follow instructions in [link](https://open-shelf.appspot.com/FreeCAD/en-US/34.html) provided.
Below is the list of instructions from #12
1. Have shape loaded
2. Switch to a plane that you would like to cut parallel to. e.g. XZ
3. Switch to Draft workbench
4. Draw rectangle around item to cut
5. Upgrade using '^' up arrow (blue) in toobar
6. Adjust the Placement Angle/Position via the "Data" in the property editor lower left side.
7. Switch to the "Arch" workbench
8. Double click the solid to cut in the 3d view
9. Ctrl+click the plane you will cut with
10. Select "cut-plane" and choose which side to capture
You will have to play around with the pattern in 12. The idea is to use the same Face created through 12 to cut the part at the same point twice. To create two halves. Take note of the position of the Face created in 12.
In my case, I was attempting to stretch the part along the Y axis, so I was able to cut the part with an XZ plane (created in 12) and offset with a distance in the Y plane.
After performing this "split" I created a cross-section of the at the point of the cut and extruded the cross section 3mm.
Afterward, I was able to use the Edit -> Alignment tool to attach all three parts back together.
Once attached, I selected all three and performed a "union" operation to make them all whole again, then executed the Part -> Refine shape.
End result was that I could make the chain links 3mm wider than the original.
I'm still working on tweaking out the other components that constitute this feature but still this is an interesting exercise.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I found username_2's answer to be helpful, however I could only use additive features (e.g. Pad) on the created object, and could not make subtractive features *into* the object (e.g. Pocket).
Here's what worked for me using FreeCAD 0.19 (Instructions from [this site](http://pinter.org/archives/4255)):
1. Create new document
2. Import STL (File --> Import)
3. Part workbench --> Create shape from mesh
4. Part workbench --> Shape builder...
5. Create shape, select "Solid from shell". Make sure "Refine shape" box is checked. Press "Create" button. (You may need to switch to the "Model" tab in the Combo View and select your shape object.)
6. Change to the PartDesign workbench. Select the newly-created "Solid" in the Combo/Tree View, then select PartDesign --> "Create body"
7. A new Body will be created with your Solid as a BaseFeature that can work with Pad *and* Pocket features.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/23 | 1,225 | 4,672 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using a Flashforge Creator Dual Extrusion 3D Printer with RepG ([ReplicatorG](http://replicat.org/)), and tonight a print completely detached from the build plate.
I reset everything and watched it closely. It is a simple abs print at 230/110 degrees.
A few seconds after start of print, I noticed that the print bed temp had dropped to 109... and kept dropping.
This is new behavior. I haven't started to troubleshoot yet. I am looking for suggestions on how to troubleshoot the issue.
**Edit 1:**
Tonight RepG would not connect to the printer. I reseated the USB cord
and now it does.
The test print is ABS at 230/110 from this open scad.
```
difference()
{
cylinder(d = 10, h = 2);
cylinder(d = 9, h = 2);
}
```
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2/Oscar
Once the print starts the print bed begins cooling. It is cooling before
any filament is laid down.
**Edit 2:**
Examination of the gcode shows the root cause. It does contain
```
M104 S230 T1 (set extruder temperature)
```
It does not contain a
```
M109 S110 (set build plate temperature)
```
When I manually add the M109 to the gcode file, the model prints normally, and the build plate temperature holds for the duration of the print.
The drop in temperature last week is due to the fact that I tend to preheat the printer before actually starting the print. Since there was no M109 the bed plate cooled to ambient temperature.
There isn't a hardware issue here. Most likely it is a Rep G configuration error of some sort.
**Edit 3:**
I resolved the issue by a fresh install of the latest Rep G. I rebuilt the profiles from scratch with G Code to set the correct bed temp. Thank you for your suggestions.<issue_comment>username_1: Your bed is obviously capable of heating up, so I would double check your cable for any kinks, cuts, blow-outs, or general connection issues both where your machine rests during warm-up and Z0 where your machine begins printing.
Most likely there is a poor connector or kinked/cut wire for the build plate.
If that doesn't appear to be the issue, I might also suggest checking your power supply. I've heard of other similar machines' power supplies not being quite strong enough to support two extruders AND a heated bed.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Check your slicer settings. Some slicers allow the temperature to change at a specified layer. You may have programmed the slic3r to turn off the bed after the first (or maybe zeroth) layer.
You call also examine the G-code for M140, M144, and M190 commands.
Of course, the usual intermittent electric connections, power supply failures, etc. should be checked, but don't overlook the possibility that it is working exactly as you are asking it to work.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Preheating the bed is a commonly used approach to shorten the time to print. I'll explain; it actually does not shorten the physical print time itself, but before you start a print there is always stuff to do like inserting the SD-card or loading the model in the print server, while you do that, the bed will be heating, so time gained.
When you load a model it apparently resets the temperatures, so preheating will only have an effect when you also actually set the bed temperature in the G-code file. This means that either your G-code file has some codes that influence the temperature, the connector is loose or loading a print over the program you use must reset the bed temperature, there aren't any other options.
To comment on your G-code, M109 is used to set the extruder temperature and wait till it is reached, M190 is used to set the bed temperature and wait till it is reached. Usually M190 is used to set the bed temperature before the first layer is being printed; the printer waits until the temperature is reached before the printer continues to the next command (usually the heating of the hotend). If you have selected a different temperature for the rest of the print you will find the M140 G-code command prior to printing the second layer.
I have tested on my Prusa i3 clone running a Marlin fork to print a model with all references to M190 and M140 removed. I pre-heated to 70 °C (for PETG) and loaded the model in OctoPrint print server and commenced the print. The printer retained the bed value and did not drop.
Basically, it is needed to take a closer look at your G-code file. The answer must be in there. If there is nothing to find in the G-code file and electronic connections are fine, the answer must be found in ReplicatorG, this might send reset signals prior to sending the print, but that sounds really strange.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/07/24 | 2,105 | 7,994 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a new Tevo Tornado, which I have completed two good prints with, a 20x20 test cube from the supplied SD and the spool holder also from the SD. I say this to note that the printer was capable of producing a good print.
Print 3 was a design I created in Fusion and it printed badly, very disappointing holes missing. Stringing gaps between material just rubbish. I downloaded a simple print from Thingiverse just to see if it was my poor design skills or the printer and that came out just as poorly: lots of strings between details. Both of these were sliced in Cura. As that doesn't have a tornado driver, I downloaded one from the support group and the prints have not even started properly, see pictures for example.
I might be going down rabbit holes here but this is what I have found and tried:
* 1 relieved bed - done to ridiculous degree of accuracy, cold gross levelling then bed and nozzle at PLA working temp using feeler gauges. I have done 0.1 mm, 0.15 mm, 0.2 mm
Now I have added to the suspicion the z axis coupler see images below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KX2DWm.jpg "z axis flexible coupling#1")[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KAWNmm.jpg "z axis flexible coupling#2")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/djWvKm.jpg "z axis flexible coupling#3")
YouTube videos, that I have seen, show couplers that are not a spring - any thoughts? I would certainly appreciate the time anyone has to impart their knowledge.
**EDIT 1**: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)
*The print bed is brand new from Tevo the unit has only done a few prints most aborted, and I also thought perhaps a residue from the feeler gauges had contaminated the bed, but I have cleaned it with alcohol wipes and also tried putting prints on to unused parts of the bed. You are right the g-code from the test print was from an unknown slicer, no doubt tuned by the manufacturer the part I designed in Fusion was sliced by cura. I have since tried the original test piece and it fouls the extruder nozzle almost straight away.*
*The main differences and there are not many between the set up parts, are that the Cura code does a G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-3.5 before starting layer 0 (both set z0,3). The test piece just does a G92 E0 G1 F7200 the feed rates are different the cura print sets M204 S500 and the test sample sets no acceleration. I assume there is a default in the Marlin firmware.. there is no doubt some globs of PLA stick like in dots between the strings, but the extrusion between direction changes do not kind of like join the dots where dots stick and joins don't.*
*I am going to change the coupler because, well, I don't know what else to do. Replacing it with a better one can't help. Other things I have thought about - PLA temps - I have gone up the whole range according to the manufacturers bandwidth in 5 degree increments no difference I have also done some bed changes but neither hotter nor colder (it's 30°C and humid at the moment, so maybe a materials property issue, but then again no difference in conditions between a successful first test and all the messes). I am storing the PLA in a gel bead box to reduce humidity. still basically stumped!*
**EDIT 2**: (Additional information posted as comment, now moved to question)
*Thanks for your observation, it's a new bed and I clean down with alcohol wipes ( isopropyl) I don't think I have ever put a finger on the bed - very aware of that. While I don't know what I am talking about on the one hand I am semi convinced it is not the bed, anyway I am going to get a glass bed in part to deal with the protruding screw head issue.*<issue_comment>username_1: The "springs" connected to the stepper motors aren't a problem. They are special shaft couplers which allow some relief if the motor mounts are not strictly perpendicular to the lead screws. They are very rotationally stiff and allow just a little bit of misalignment between the shafts.
The first two prints were from the SD card. You didn't talk about slicing from an STL file, so it is possible that they were pre-sliced for this machine. Every G-code file has introductory code that initializes some aspects of the operation. Check the "preamble" code at the front of the files you have sliced. Are there commands that look different? Is the Z parameter for the first layer different from the pre-sliced files? Are there G-codes missing from the files you sliced?
If you are trying to understand what the G-codes do, [this resource](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code) may be helpful. Some possible commands could be commands to limit acceleration, jerk, speed, or introduce offsets. Also check that the temperatures are being set correctly in the G-code you generated.
If you had sliced the files on the SD card, then double check that the parameters were the same. Try re-slicing the object and comparing the G-code that is generated.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Based only on your title, and not on the content of the question, I would guess that maybe your print bed is not clean any more, and this is causing bad adhesion.
There are lots of bed surface material options - I guess you have some specially engineered high stick surface on this printer so you should check the manufacturer's specific direction regarding the print material since there is a risk (eg with PETG) of excessive bond strength requiring the use of a release agent in some cases.
I use kapton tape on my bed, and always wipe over with acetone or isopropyl alcohol before printing. Soap/water might also be effective - the problem which you're maybe facing is the oils deposited from touching the bed with fingers.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Update and close
I have changed the coupler on the z axis and levelled the bed put a print on to test, skirt and first layer look good so I think we can call this one closed and thank you very much for your comments.
---
so over the weekend I have run a couple of prints, one very successful the other a complete fail, I would however judge the layer 1 adhesion issue to be largely solved by the replacement of the coupler, which was slightly fiddly. What I did notice was in purchasing a new coupler the design used by Tevo has to sets of perpendicular grub screws one for the lead screw and on to locate in the stepper motor shaft. The stepper motor only has in flat face so picking up on this is important and the factory had not - sloppy ! Secondly the lead screw has no faces so I *dremeled* two peep faces
Once the lead screw was dressed the locking down of the coupler was simple and secure. Took about 30 minutes to fix after days of misguided bed levelling and slicer tweaking.
Old and new coupler new one bought as a pair from amazon £6 could have for them cheaper but I wanted next day not to wait.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wmk2q.jpg "Old and new coupler")
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: What it may useful to improve your prints, are the following elements, according to my personal experience with the Tevo Tornado:
1) level the bed when it's warm.
2) print a cylinder that should measure 100 mm, afterwards measure it with a caliper: regulate the steps per mm according to the difference (many guides for calibration are available, for example: <https://youtu.be/Wk3qYOB4E9I>)
3) print this object to be installed on the z axis and regulated with an M5 screw and nut: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2827664>
4) Print a test for temperatures, like this: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2131069>
I hope it helps. Happy printing.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/07/26 | 1,956 | 7,637 | <issue_start>username_0: I specifically want to test
* calibration
* tolerances
* precision
* accuracy
I'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality.
The printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing.<issue_comment>username_1: The best place to start looking is to go to [Thingiverse](http://www.thingiverse.com) and search on '[benchmark](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=benchmark)'. There are a great many models there intended to test various aspects of printing. In fact you could search for example '[calibration benchmark](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration%20benchmark)' or '[calibration test](http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration%20test)' and get more specific examples.
Actually, [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/username_1/collections/benchmarks) is a collection I just made today of the benchmarks I thought most promising. Disclaimer: I haven't tried them yet!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a fairly open ended subject, but the different calibration/test models can be broken down into a few different groups. Although there are a few common 'standards', as soon as you get to looking at a specific parameter, you will need to look for something that is a good match for your problem (not everything on thingiverse is really 'useful), and work out how to use it for your adjustments. Ultimately, the specific model you're working on is the best test - and it may also be that this model is not optimal in some way.
Here is a print from my own test model which shows the slicer not handling my model very well, partly because the model doesn't respect the filament dimensions. It also shows how a variety of print details can be captured in a small (20 min) print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXK9zm.jpg)
Basic Calibration
-----------------
This is a step that you might be tempted to skip on a non-diy printer, since it mainly focuses on the construction. The [basic 20mm calibration cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) (just a square) can be used to test that your printer is dimensionally accurate, and is also one way to check your extruder steps/mm (extrusion is variable, x/y steps generally only change when the belt skips).
You can also use bigger shapes if you suspect that there are drive problems, and [bed leveling](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2664146) might come into this group too, where you could use a one or two layer print.
Test Parts
----------
These are small parts that might once have been considered hard to print, but now seem to be a standard reference for a 'good' print. Most people who have been printing for a while have a collection of [benchie](http://www.3dbenchy.com) and [marvin](https://www.3dhubs.com/hub-academy/your-first-order-marvin-test-print) prints. You might use these to quickly test a new filament, although the benchie is borderline large.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Q9H0m.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMa9wm.jpg)
Detail calibration
------------------
Depending what you want to focus on, there will be different things you can use. Temperature calibration towers, overhang and bridging tests, ripple tests (for acceleration), fan tests, etc. This is an area where finding a 'good' test part can be hard. You would want to make sure that the previous two classes of test show good all round performance (or have identified a specific problem) first, before trying this sort of test.
For the print-in-place example, you might need to check extrusion/ooze/coasting, as well as checking linearity and orthogonality (it's no use if a circular part turns out to be more like a diamond with rounded corners). You also need to make sure your first layer is good, without a rim or warping.
Torture tests
-------------
I put this in a group on it's own because it may not be as useful for tuning a printer as some of the others. This is a little bit more about showing off how good your printer is tuned - and is the origin of the benchie and marvin type models, just with the difficulty turned up a notch or two. Some print-in-place models might fit into this category.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: **Any print you make can be considered a test print!** But, specific test prints are easily found on the internet and lend themselves better for specific tasks. In order to improve your printer / print quality, you need to follow a meticulous series of tests and record the parameters you use to slice the model. Each test should be broken down into several print process parameters (and recorded) and tested for their effects (e.g. speed and temperature).
---
A general accepted strategy is to calibrate the extrusion process first and that look into the general accuracy.
Filament deposition calibration
-------------------------------
An important aspect of printing is deposition of just enough filament (if you deposit too much the lines become wider, and so are the dimensions). To calibrate the extruder deposition of filament you can easily heat up the hot end, mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point and extrude e.g. 100 mm. Now measure the filament mark again with respect to the reference point to verify you actually extruded that same demanded amount.
Accuracy
--------
For general accuracy printing of 20x20x20 mm cubes is usually fine. Note that the print accuracy is generally determined by the printer (construction) itself, but can be influenced by print speed. Large speeds in combination with a large mass of the printer head can lead to positioning inaccuracies (like overshoot). That said, you should also look into the printer itself. Does it have play? Are the belts tight enough, but not over-tightened? Is the bed skew, or are XYZ perpendicular?
[This cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) is frequently used to calibrate the dimensions:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gw7Tm.jpg)
*Please do note that the poster of this picture probably produced a dimensional accurate print, but still faces under extrusion (as seen from the gaps between the lines)*
If dimensions seem to be off reasonably, e.g. more than 0.2 mm (depending on the printer construction) you could change the amount of steps per mm in the firmware. Do note that the steps per mm is mechanically determined by the belt and pulleys.
More tests?
-----------
Even more tests can done to make specific filament adjustments. E.g. "temperature towers" can be printed to test the optimal parameters for filament flow and / or bridging (printing in air between two parts), or overhang (unsupported parts of the print). But, these last tests are not specifically designed for the issues you mentioned.
Tolerance test
--------------
Once you have calibrated the printer to the ability of yourself and to the capacity of the printer itself you could try to print a dimensional printing [tolerance test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318105). Such tests are usually constructed by cylinder shaped (or diabolic shaped) objects in a housing that is slightly larger that the shape.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RqTpm.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPTqdm.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/27 | 966 | 3,361 | <issue_start>username_0: I need to replace the lid of my water kettle and am searching for a filament, that is suitable for this purpose. The requirements are:
1. Stable at 100°C (212°F)
2. Resistant to steam/moisture
3. Food-safe
Has anyone experimented with this or similar purposes?<issue_comment>username_1: There are few materials that go up to that temperature and beyond.
A very nice generic overview is given by [Simplify3d](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/properties-table/):
*This figure shows an overview of many of the used materials in 3D printing*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/em4Xd.jpg)
When looking closely, and without pointing to specific brands (to avoid a commercial posting), your best chances for appropriate filaments for your application is to look at Nylon, Polycarbonate (do not consider Polypropylene; that is very difficult to print) or (not mentioned in the overview as they are more recent filaments) Co-Polyester polymers.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Referring to the table provided in username_1's answer, the key challenge with high temperature materials is the gap between the glass transition temperature (bed temperature) and the extruder temperature.
Polycarbonate for example is listed as usable up to 121°C, printing on a bed at 80-120°C, but requiring an extruder temperature of 260-310°C. This extruder temperature is potentially going to challenge the mechanical, thermal and measurement properties of a printer.
In this application, you don't strictly require 100°C operation, so Nylon (80-95°C) and ABS (98°C) might be worth trying. Even if one side of the part is at this temperature, immersed in steam, the opposite side is exposed to air and convection cooling. Providing there is sufficient thermal insulation and internal rigidity, the upper shell of the part is likely to support it. However, if the inner face does start to flow it may take some time before a problem is apparent.
So long as the material is not *soluble*, absorbing moisture may not be a major issue.
When it comes to being food-safe, this is a huge can of worms, and you're really looking to investigate 'how much of a risk' rather than get a go/no-go answer.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I recommend PEEK if you are able to print around 400 °C.
From [Wikipedia - Polyether ether ketone](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RU7QR.png)
---
As requested in comments, here is the setup I use to print small PEEK parts:
* Hyrel3D Engine, Standard Resolution (ESR): $2500 list
* Hyrel3D MK1-450 print head for 1.75mm filaments between 300 °C and 450 °C: $450 list
*Please note that larger parts will require (and all parts will benefit from) a heated build chamber.
Also note that annealing PEEK parts after printing (we use a circuit board reflow oven) recrystallizes (strengthens) the PEEK (and is recommended, but not required).*
Here is one of our videos from 2015 showing the 410 °C prototype for this head printing PEEK: [YouTube - Introducing Hyrel's MK1-450 Printing PEEK and PC](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om9cjxMXuxY)
I work for Hyrel 3D. The company page is linked in my profile.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/28 | 649 | 2,349 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm very new to 3D printing, but so far I've been able to print a couple things off Thingiverse without issue. However, as I'm trying to print another part, I've run into a situation where Cura is totally confused as to what's touching the buildplate and what isn't:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j56yL.png)
All I did was use the "mirror" feature to put it in a better orientation for printing....
Any ideas what's going on here? I'm using Cura 3.4 for Linux.
---
**Update:** I tried using the rotation tool instead as suggested by Oscar, but I get the same result:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4v0HG.png)
**Update 2:** Hmm so even when I just import the part without doing anything else, Cura is still confused:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jschr.png)<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to mirror the print to get the top to the bottom, and visa versa, you just need to rotate the part using the XYZ rotation tool. Mirroring is used to make a mirror image in the X-Z or Y-Z plane, not the X-Y plane.
You might just caught a bug, you could post that of their forum.
Update:
If that does not fix it, you might have an incorrect STL model, e.g. the normals of the faces are incorrect. You could try to fix this by repairing the model through an online service like [this one](https://service.netfabb.com).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The up- or down-ness of a part is its Z-orientation, which is specified in STL. It looks like whoever published that STL file published it upside down, requiring you to flip the part or rotate it by 180. You can flip it in Cura as you've done or leave a comment to the author of the STL that the part is upside down. However, the author may not know how to fix this because low-end modeling tools typically do not have the capability of flipping a model. In these cases, using another tool such as Cura or Slicer can generate a right-side up model. Cura seems to like generating AMF files, so I use Slicer to generate STL files for upside down models. Once you correct the STL file, you'll be able to import the model directly into Cura right-side up.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/29 | 1,371 | 4,538 | <issue_start>username_0: I had a Z probe installed but the wires came out of the header so I am trying to use software endstops, but any time I `G28` the nozzle will always ram into the bed. I am using Marlin Firmware. Which I am relatively new with. I'm used to having hardware endstops, but,
**I don't have a hardware endstop currently (no probe/no switch).**
* Is it possible to do this with software?
* I took out `G28`/`G29` in my G-code and it shows that it is going to z0.2 and working upward (but it still hits the bed). If the bed is level do I need a `G28`?
* Should Z probe offset be 0?
```
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
// Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable.
// This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles.
#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE
#define PROBE_MANUALLY
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 1 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3.4
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE 0 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES 3 // Z Clearance between probe points
// For M851 give a range for adjusting the Z probe offset
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN -20
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MAX 20
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
#if ENABLED(MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS)
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_X
//#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Y
#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOP_Z
#endif
#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING
#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_BED_SIZE) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT ((Y_BED_SIZE) / 2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axes (G28).
#endif
```<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to mirror the print to get the top to the bottom, and visa versa, you just need to rotate the part using the XYZ rotation tool. Mirroring is used to make a mirror image in the X-Z or Y-Z plane, not the X-Y plane.
You might just caught a bug, you could post that of their forum.
Update:
If that does not fix it, you might have an incorrect STL model, e.g. the normals of the faces are incorrect. You could try to fix this by repairing the model through an online service like [this one](https://service.netfabb.com).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The up- or down-ness of a part is its Z-orientation, which is specified in STL. It looks like whoever published that STL file published it upside down, requiring you to flip the part or rotate it by 180. You can flip it in Cura as you've done or leave a comment to the author of the STL that the part is upside down. However, the author may not know how to fix this because low-end modeling tools typically do not have the capability of flipping a model. In these cases, using another tool such as Cura or Slicer can generate a right-side up model. Cura seems to like generating AMF files, so I use Slicer to generate STL files for upside down models. Once you correct the STL file, you'll be able to import the model directly into Cura right-side up.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/07/31 | 821 | 2,789 | <issue_start>username_0: High performance polymers are becoming available for specific applications.
One of such materials is PEEK ([PolyEther Ether Ketone](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyether_ether_ketone)), a thermoplastic polymer in the polyaryletherketone (PAEK) family. PEEK competes with certain Aluminium alloys but is half the weight of Aluminium. For aerospace application this sounds very promising!
NASA has [shown](https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/20170000214.pdf) that printing these types of polymers is feasible using low-cost, open source hardware.
**Does anybody know why the prices of PEEK are so high?**
Depending on the supplier/manufacturer you're looking at about 700 - 900 Euro per kg.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqNar.png)<issue_comment>username_1: My assumptions about PEEK filament price are:
* Raw material is more expensive. Compare price of [ABS](https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/abs-pellet.html) with [PEEK](https://www.alibaba.com/showroom/peek-pellet.html) pellets.
* Demand is much lower. There are not many printers able to print peek. If you manufacture PEEK filament you have to store a filament batch for longer time. Manufacturer has to calculate into price storage space, material degradation, ...
* Filament machine tuning. You have to tune filament extrude machine for PEEK, which takes time because it's a totally different plastic. Maybe there is a cleanup needed after finishing a batch and switching to another material.
* Working conditions. PEEK is quite smelly and I am not sure if you have to improve work conditions like better ventilation.
* Research costs. You have to distribute research costs to a filament production where demand is low.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: **Patents** still seem to play a role as well.
I was curious about this question and did a bit of research: If you filter the [U.S. patents after 2010 mentioning PEEK](https://patents.google.com/?q=%22Polyether%20ether%20ketone%22&country=US&after=priority:20100101) and its various applications and improvements, you still get roughly 10,000 patents. Those are not all primarily patents for PEEK, but still.
Even *Victrex PLC*, formerly named *[Imperial Chemical Industries](https://drakeplastics.com/peek/)*, who filed the [first patent for PEEK back in 1978](https://register.epo.org/application?number=EP78300314&tab=main), had a [patent published in 2016](https://patents.justia.com/patent/20160208045) for a new PEEK production procedure:
>
> The process can be used to produce high quality, relatively light
> coloured polymers having a lower Tm than those produced using a
> standard PEEK process.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/08/01 | 3,247 | 11,896 | <issue_start>username_0: I´ve have read an article to change different pattern depending on amount of layers, but my question is if is possible to have different infill in the same part? For example:
* Base: has the infill of 25 % but the same base has some tabs for screws and mount the part for this area the infill need to be 40 % or greater.
* The walls and forms: this has the same of the whole part and can be filled at 25 % but some areas need to be filled at 15 % or less.
Probably someone has seen or reviewed another software to achieve this, or I'm fooling myself.<issue_comment>username_1: This answer explains that you can have different infill within the same part. Firstly the implementation in **Ultimaker Cura** is described, secondly how you can do this in **Slic3r**.
---
Ultimaker Cura
--------------
I've used a feature in **Ultimaker Cura** that can be used to alter the infill density locally. What you need to do is load your model into Cura, then load other objects (models) at the size of the area/volume you want your infill differently and position those at the position you want a different infill. Alternatively, you can add support blocker cubes that can be used as well. So basically, you use other models to intersect with your primary model to create intersections that can take a different infill percentage (please note that you can alter even more options, as long as you add these to the intersecting volume). This is extremely useful for lugs and brackets where you need some extra infill (e.g. extra stiffness for compression stresses) at the fastener holes. Note that this is an advanced feature which is not easy to use, but quite handy if you master it.
I could not find the video (*on second thoughts, I think it was animated GIF*) posted by Team Ultimaker, so I quote a section of one of their forum topics.
[A short how-to:](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20470-infill-density-for-smaller-parts/) (italic font is not in the reference, but added to reflect recent version of Cura)
>
> * Unselect "keep models apart" *(now called: "Ensure models are kept apart")* and "drop models to build plate" *(now called: "Automatically drop models to the build plate")* in Cura preferences
> * Import a second object (for example a simple cube)
> * Put Cura in "custom mode"
> * Select the cube, and use the button "per object settings" on the left side
> * Select "Infill Mesh" *(now called: "Modify settings for infill of other models")* and enable that setting
> * The cube now turns transparent gray.
> * Position the cube to overlap part of your model. It should overlap with the section that you want to change the infill for.
> * Also with "per object settings" *(now called: "Per model settings")* select the option "infill density"
> * Set it to the desired value. All is more or less illustrated in the screenshot below
> * The picture shows a cube on the buildplate with infill 20 %. Locally, with a rotated 2nd cube, the infill % is raised to 100 %.
> * What happens is that the volume where the cube intersects with your object is locally sliced with different infill.
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oIjIj.png)
>
>
>
Please find below another example of a simple bracket that has extra cylindrical objects loaded to create the intersections with the bracket at the fastener holes. In the [example](https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20470-infill-density-for-smaller-parts/?do=findComment&comment=193146), the infill at the fastener holes is set to 99 %.
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MqSpA.png)
>
>
>
After slicing, you will see that the infill at the intersections is adjusted accordingly.
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/v9guy.png)
>
>
>
**Note:** I've tested this in Ultimaker Cura 3.4.1, and confirm it works. I sliced a part with the inserts for fasteners and it actually is not very difficult, it just requires a little more work. You will have to make some STL's of cylinders and position them correctly. If you make your own 3D models it will be a very easy task to add extra components while you design, positioning will be a lot more easy then (as they align with your model). An example is the following linear [Z rod bracket of a Hypercube Evolution CoreXY printer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4441751/files), this bracket requires local reinforcements for the bolts clamping the bracket onto the aluminum extrusion profile:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVlF1.png "Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket")
Inserts are modeled together with the development of the bracket:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/w8XlM.png "Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket insert")
When combined, it looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qJszQ.png "Hypercube Evolution Z rod bracket and bracket insert")
Now the infill can be modified locally to 100 % to increase compression strength.
Note that this will also work if you want a different infill percentage at the first X layers, just use a large cube (larger than the model) and position it correctly. Note that Cura already has an option called "Gradual Infill Steps" to adjust the density at the top layers.
---
Slic3r
------
[This reference](http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/modifier-mesh) describes how to do this for **Slic3r** in detail.
The blog describes the use of a simple volume (the green volume loaded from an STL file). After loading:
>
> Right-clicking on the main part brought up the object settings menu.
> From there, clicking "Load Modifier" and selecting the previously
> saved model adds it to the part as a modifier.
>
>
> The green "+" was selected and "Fill Density" was added to modifier
> list and set to 100 %.
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/llvIG.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EslBH.jpg)
This shows that the functionality in Slic3r is very similar to the functionality in Ultimaker Cura.
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I don't particularly recommend the following, but it may be easier than username_1's answer (which I would recommend implementing if you use Cura).
Slice your object twice, once at the lower infill and once at the higher infil. Then open both gcode files in a text editor and replace all per-layer code in one file with the code from the same layers in the other file. This certainly takes some care to ensure no bugs fall in, and you'll want to know the exact layers at which to change infill. Further, this only changes density on a per-layer basis, not on an X-Y region basis.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Yes, it's possible, and not just limited to Cura. If you use GrabCAD Print (for Stratasys printers), the *Advanced FDM* feature allows different infill in different regions of your part - not based on layers, but based on your CAD geometry. Because of this, you have to start the process in CAD, by creating a part with multiple bodies. (For example, in Solidworks, you do this by turning off "merge" when you add a second boss, or by making a cut from a sketch and turning on "keep both parts".)
Once you've done this, go into the *Advanced FDM* tab in GrabCAD Print, and add your CAD part (the CAD file itself, not an STL). The two or more bodies in your part will be shown separately in the project panel: select them all and choose "merge". Now they will all be printed as a single part, but you can select each one and give them different infill settings.
You can also select any CAD face (i.e. not individual triangles) and override its wall thickness.
You can read a [full tutorial about Advanced FDM](https://help.grabcad.com/article/245-advanced-fdm) on the GrabCAD website.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: While you definitely can do this with custom slicing settings, if the "infill" is a design constraint necessary for the part to properly function, I prefer making it a part of the design rather than leaving it as something you can mess up at slicing time. This is particularly important if you will be sharing the design for use by others or using a 3D printing service that might not give you sufficient control over the slicing parameters. Moreover, when you say you want "higher infill" in particular parts, this is often an imprecise way of conveying what you really need, which is *particular infill structure* - usually additional walls - not just a denser version of the infill pattern.
To use your example of points that need to accept screws (either drilled/tapped after printing, or with printed threads), just having denser infill in that part of the print won't help unless it's 100%; drilling into infill pattern will not give you something solid that a screw can thread securely into.
What I do for things like this is create internal gaps in the model, narrower than the minimum clearance needed to avoid walls bonding to each other. For example, cutting out concentric cylindrical surfaces can make a great solid region to thread a screw into. As noted by Trish in a comment, 0.05 mm seems to be a good choice of gap width that's below the clearance needed for FDM printers to avoid bonding, but large enough not to get removed by slicing tools.
If you want to ensure the model is still logically one connected component, leave some gaps in the cut, something like:
There's a lot of room for experimentation with exactly what kind of gaps work best. As Trish suggested, varying the location of bridges between layers may help. Adjusting spacing based on expected extrusion line widths may also be a good idea. One approach i've used in strengthening bolts, that might also work for threaded holes, is repeating the inner and outer thread profiles as a gap in the model. Here's an example cut to show the gap:
This particular reinforcement is mitigating the fact that roofing above infill is only supported by the infill, and thereby is able to sag slightly, preventing the layers from bonding as strongly and preventing the threaded walls from bonding strongly to the head.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: Using Cura 4.8
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FEkYR.png)
5% infill
This is the **Support Blocker** button:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9lJO.png "Support blocker button")
Drop anywhere on bed, then resize and move like any model, make sure to turn off uniform scaling
With support blocker selected, then click the **Mesh Type** button:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cQ10p.png "Mesh Type button")
* Modify settings for overlaps
* Select settings
* Type infill in the search
* Select infill density
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1LmCH.png)
Infill density has now been changed to 100% for selected part only.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/08/01 | 1,296 | 4,039 | <issue_start>username_0: Following on from [What level of voltage does the Creality Ender-3 run at?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at/6521#comment9993_6521)
[Dave's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-level-of-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at#answer-6521) states that both 12 V and 24 V can be used on the controller board. It also goes on to say that the controller board is used in both configurations in two different printers:
* Ender 3 and;
* CR-10
I would like to know how this dual voltage operation works:
* Does it use both voltages at the same time, or either one or the other?
* Are there two different electrical inlets or are they the same?
* Does it auto-detect or are there jumpers used to configure or are the components tolerant to both voltage levels?
Also related:
* What is the board used?
* Is the board a proprietary design or a standard third party board?
* Does anyone have any photos of the board and/or schematics?<issue_comment>username_1: This answer addresses the input voltage. If you look up the official replacement board at the official Creality store the board features a single pair of connectors next to it says: 12 V / 24 V. So you can either use 12 V, or 24 V, not both. An internal regulator will most probably reduce the voltage anyways.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W1xgl.png)
Please note that (kindly reminded by user profesor79 through the comments) that the microprocessor on these boards only use 5 V. So any voltage you supply (12 or 24 V), the voltage regulator will always make sure the microprocessor does not get more than 5 V. However, that does not necessarily apply to all peripherals connected to the board! This should be verified if for the peripherals also a voltage regulator is used. One of my own boards, [the RUMBA board](https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA) can be fed by any voltage ranging from 12 V - 35 V, but this also applies to the peripherals like the heater cartridge and the fans! I use the RUMBA with a 24 V power supply, so I need to use 24 V fans heater elements and heat bed.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I own the Ender 3, and it runs on 24V, as this photo of the power supply shows:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3VrGx.jpg)
From power supply to the board, it uses a 2-wire line connected with a XT60 plug/jack that is common on RC cars:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uXc5B.jpg)
The board itself is a proprietary design and labeled as "V1.1.2". The Voltage in is the lowest input on the left:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQBpB.jpg)
The Cooling fan (blue-yellow wire), the hotend cooling fan, heater cartridge (white shielded), bed heater (left black-red), board cooling fan (middle red-black) run (in this setup) on 24V. The Logic connectors (black-black & White-white) run 5V logic. I could not figure out the voltage of the stepper motors (upper row).
I have not figured out how the power management circut works, but it achieves this:
* Supply voltage $ U\_S = 12\ \text V \lor 24\ \text V $
* Logic Voltage $ U\_L = 5\ \text V $
* Sensor Voltage $ U\_{sens} = U\_L$
* Hotend Cooling Fan $ U\_{cool} = U\_S$
* Hotend Heating Cartridge $ U\_{hot} = U\_S $
* Heatbed $ U\_{bed} = U\_S $
The chip's caption can't be read on the photo, but it is labeled as "Δ ATMEL // ATMEGA1284P // AU 1726"
For the pinout, a [german maker](https://www.chaos-drucker.de/anleitungen-und-tutorials/creality-ender3-mit-marlin-ausstatten/) did determine, that it the configuration of a [Sanguino](https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino) equipped with an Atmega1284P 16Bit works for compiling firmware and flashing via a bootloader.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2018/08/01 | 597 | 2,304 | <issue_start>username_0: We know from [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/183/11242), 3d printed materials continue to outgas after printing and being cured. My question relates to this:
* How much does heating the printed object after printing (or being cured) affect out-gassing?
* Does the continued out-gassing degrade the stability/quality of the print?<issue_comment>username_1: The effect of temperature on outgas rates is a subject for Engineering.SE . As to continued outgassing - depends on the material in question. To pick an extreme example, solid CO2 (dry ice) will outgas until it's gone. But stuff that's got VOCs is expected to outgas; said volatiles leave by design and the remaining material stands on its own.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is not an answer to your question, but it relates to outgassing so I am sharing it here.
I have used the acetone vapor method of smoothing the surface of ABS prints. It works really well, and the surface becomes much smoother and glassy. I printed a large coffee mug (lets, for the moment, ignore food safety issues) and made it very smooth.
After a couple of weeks to allow the acetone to fully evaporate, I poured a nice, hot cup of tea. Unfortunately, the acetone had not fully left the print, and the surface was immediately covered with dozens of bubbles as the acetone evaporated and pushed against the ABS.
This effect was only because of the acetone. Another cup that had not been vapor smoothed worked perfectly and was unaffected by the hot water.
I have not seen similar outgassing from PLA, ABS, Nylon, or PETG.
If I may hazard an opinion about the substance of your question...
I don't think that outgassing is the biggest contributor to the aging of prints and their properties changing. I suspect that (perhaps not in order) these are larger factors:
1. exposure to UV light. UV light breaks polymer bonds and reduces
the strength of plastic.
2. absorption of water vapor, which can both expand the material which causes stress, and chemically break polymer bonds.
3. long-term crystallization of the material
4. fatigue from repeated sub-failure stress
NASA used to have resources that spoke to outgassing rates related to suitability for space applications.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/08/01 | 1,967 | 6,243 | <issue_start>username_0: I have been wondering about 3D metal printing (steel, aluminium), but after a short research on google I found only too expensive printers (markforged, desktop metal and a few other industrial ones). Is there any less expensive printer that is able to print metal parts on the market ?<issue_comment>username_1: Anzalone and friends published [A Low-Cost Open-Source Metal 3-D Printer](https://ieeexplore.ieee.org/document/6678531/) in *IEEE Access*:
>
> This paper reports on the development of a open-source metal 3-D printer. The metal 3-D printer is controlled with an open-source micro-controller and is a combination of a low-cost commercial gas-metal arc welder and a derivative of the Rostock, a deltabot RepRap. The bill of materials, electrical and mechanical design schematics, and basic construction and operating procedures are provided.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: You can do lost-PLA investment casting, the actual gear to do it is kind of pricey unless you're willing to create your own DIY forge for melting aluminum.
Check it out though, you don't need a special printer to do it.
There's also a way to coat your prints with metal it would require an electric current and some nasty chemicals, but it's possible as an alternative.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: **Printing metal** (directly) is done in mainly two types:
* Laser Sintering (LS), where a metal compound or alloy is sintered into form. For example, Tungsten Carbide is Laser Sintered. Common shorthands are SLS, DMLS, and SMLS, but others crop up too.
* Laser Melting, where the laser actually smelts the metal into spot. DMLS/DMLM (direct metal laser (s)melting) and SLM (Selective Laser Melting) are currently the top of the development.
There is a side market of a special setup that welds objects, making the whole item a single weld, but that is (strictly speaking) not printing, it is welding.
What bars the availability of OpenSource machines: [Patents](https://patents.google.com/patent/US7794647B1/en), [more patents](https://patents.google.com/patent/EP1700686A2) and [even more patents](https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2013090174A1) are still running, and some of these patents contain parts essential to metal printing, so they are barred. Only a few key patents for Laser Smelting/Laser Sintering/Laser Melting like [this one](https://www.google.com/patents/US5597589?dq=US5597589&hl=de&sa=X&ei=qB3pUqaQC4rI4AS544C4DA&ved=0CDgQ6AEwAA) did expire at all up to now. Some of the nowadays relevant patents for METAL printing like **[this](https://patents.google.com/patent/US6676892)** (exp: ~2019-2024), [this](https://patents.google.com/patent/US20170182598) (exp:~2037) or [this new one](https://patents.google.com/patent/EP2893994A1/en) (exp: ~2035) still have years to go, so it will take some time.
Another factor is market: There is only a small market for hobbyists demanding metal printers while the industrial demand is large, and the industry is willing to pay big money. So there is little pressure on the big ones to make small machines, while the open source groups need to develop ways that get the right results without breaking patents.
A more complete history of metal laser printing (and a little more help which patents actually are relevant for industry) can be found [here](https://designandmotion.net/design-2/manufacturing-design/dmls-a-little-history/).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: FFF/FDM
=======
You can create a metal object via metal casting or using a special filament containing metal parts.
Metal filament
--------------
You print with a special filament that contains from mixture of metal and plastic. After the print you heat up the object around 450°C to burn plastic away and melt metal grains together. You need a kiln. [DIY kiln](https://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Electric-Kiln/) is about 150$.
Before kiln process
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqtvk.png)
After kiln process
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tMkfY.png)
The only filament I know is [Filamet from The Virtual Foundry](https://shop.thevirtualfoundry.com/). CopperFill from ColorFabb contains just 30% of metal in oposite to Filamet containing 80%.
* [virtual foundry youtube channel](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCcSee448u4lPpFbLx1LwlJw/videos)
* review: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDIUCzV1vMg>
* [3Ders article](http://www.3ders.org/articles/20160630-filamet-lets-you-3d-print-pure-metal-objects-with-your-desktop-3d-printer.html)
* Price
+ Copper Filamet™: $ 110.00 / 1kg
+ Bronze Filamet™: $ 165.00 / 1kg
+ Stainless Steel 316L Filamet™: $ 248.00 / 1kg
Just remember that these filaments are pretty dense which makes 1kg spools quite "shorter" and thus even more expensive!
Casting
-------
This method is very closed to [lost-wax casting](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost-wax_casting). In short you print an object, surround it in clay/green sand, heat it up to burn out plastic and pour liquid metal in.
You can find an example of this tech [on youtube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HVgPM1ojyLw), but the method is pretty much the same as with lost wax casting.
RepRap experiments
==================
I have found some metal printing experiments in the RepRap projet, but did not study them in detail.
* <http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_metal_3-D_printer>
* <https://reprap.org/wiki/MetalicaRap>
* <https://reprap.org/wiki/Metal_Delta_RepRap_v1>
* <https://reprap.org/wiki/The_most_Affordable_Desktop_metal_3D_printing>
Bronze paste & paste extruder
-----------------------------
This is just an idea: You could arguably take a FFF printer with paste extruder and print with a paste containing a high amount of metal in a paste. Then the print is processed in a kiln.
Industrial technologies
=======================
Here is a list of [metal print technologies by all3p.com](https://all3dp.com/1/3d-metal-3d-printer-metal-3d-printing/) An example from the list:
* Desktop metal
* Markforged Metal X
* [Digital Alloys](https://all3dp.com/4/boeing-horizonx-invests-metal-3d-printing-startup-digital-alloys-inc/)
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/08/04 | 746 | 2,629 | <issue_start>username_0: I know very little about the history of 3D printing, except that SLA came first (in the 1980's?), and FDM development was probably held back by patents.
By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists, in the <€300 price range, as price-reduced clones of designs which had already seen several iterations.
Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines (as opposed to the >€2000 semi-professional lab budget prototyping class), or were the earlier iterations of these kit machines also suitable/adopted by hobbyists?
I realise that early popularity would grow exponentially, but I'm thinking particularly at what point people could build a printer without needing to compile their own firmware, solder any boards, etc.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> By 2016, very low price kit machines were available to hobbyists [..]
>
>
> Was this the start of the break-out of cheap FDM machines
>
>
>
No, not by any means. The [RepRap project](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RepRap_project) started in 2005, and by 2008-2010 there were several open-source printer designs out there that were somewhat workable for hobbyists. These designs were still quite expensive, you needed to source all the components yourself and do a very significant amount of troubleshooting.
However, as early as mid-2009 you could buy a [Makerbot Cupcake CNC](https://gizmodo.com/5286457/makerbot-cupcake-cnc-delivers-diy-3d-printing-for-just-750/) for \$750 as a kit (which might have involved some soldering) or \$2500 fully assembled (presumably without soldering, but it's conceivable it was plug-and-play). Makerbot went on to become quite a successful company, piggybacking off the RepRap project and could be viewed as the "break-out" you ask about.
I purchased my first printer kit (no soldering or firmware involved) for \$500 (plus around \$150 in shipping and taxes) in February 2014; cheap hobbyist machines were commonplace well before that.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The Makerbot Replicator was released in 2012 and was the first 3D consumer-level printer that was sold only as a complete unit, not a kit. They were also well funded and had a famous Maker-Person as a founder. This seemed to coincide with wide-scale coverage of 3D printing in the media, and a big boom in the DIY side of the movement which is continuing to this day.
The unit was still expensive by many standards (US$2500), but it did solve the bootstrap problem... you could just buy one at a store, instead of having to have a specific knowledge set in order to build one.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/08/05 | 456 | 1,692 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm printing PLA with the Creality Ender 2 and my print comes out totally fine with the exception of the first layer.
Here's the weird part though, if I place a raft or a brim below/around the print - the raft or brim will print perfectly cleanly. Even on a raft though, the very first layer of the actual print comes out ugly, as seen in the photo below, but the raft itself will be perfectly printed.
Following that first ugly layer of the actual print, the rest of the print will be 100% clean. This happens consistently every time I print any object.
The perfectly printed raft can be seen on the right and the ugly first layer that printed on top of that raft can be seen on the left. Be sure to click the image to see the details of what I mean.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z1Kem.jpg "Ugly first layer and raft")<issue_comment>username_1: Sounds like you need to get the printing nozzle closer to the bed. In the case of the raft you can adjust the 'air gap' which is how much it raises off the top of the raft before starting the print.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Turns out it had to do with the nature of the small holes that I was printing. I had to slow the speed of the initial layer down from 25mm/s to 15mm/s and also set Cura to 'optimize wall printing order' so that it didn't jump back and forth between holes constantly.
I also sped up the travel speed to 50mm/s on the initial layer to minimize oozing (although I'm not sure this actually did anything). Print came out beautifully.
Didn't even need the raft.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/08/05 | 1,194 | 3,075 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been seeing the 330 m and 110 m length estimates for 1.75 and 3.0 mm spools (of PLA, presumably). But a moment's thought staring at that will raise an obvious question.
Using πr², we get the area of the filament in square millimeters (rounding to two decimal points)
For 1.75 it's 2.41 mm²
For 3.00 it's 7.07 mm²
Then taking the ratio and multiplying:
(2.41/7.07) \* 330 m = 112 m which is close enough to 110 m.
BUT as all makers of filament and makers of extruders know, 3.00 mm is just a rounding off of the real dimension, which is 2.85 mm. Now do that:
For 2.85 it's 6.38 mm²
and:
(2.41/6.38) \* 330 m = 125 m which is at least 120 m.
So, whoever calculated the approximation of 110 m did the calculation based on the rounded rather than actual dimension. What am I missing here?
My point is not that the 330 and 110 would be inaccurate given the dimensions of 1.75 and 3.00. Rather, my point is that the 3.00 mm diameter is not what is really so; it's actually 2.85 mm and therefore the answer is longer than 110 m.<issue_comment>username_1: Let's go about this scientific:
$A\_r=\pi{r}^{2}=\pi{\frac{d}{2}}^{2}$
As a result the crossections are $A\_{3}=7.06858\text{mm}^2=0.0707\text{cm}^2$, $A\_{2.85}=6.3794\text{mm}^2=0.0638\text{cm}^2$ and $A\_{1.75}=2.40528\text{mm}^2=0.024\text{cm}^2$.
Volume of a cylinder is $V\_{A\_d,l}=\times {A\_d} {l}$. Turned around to get a length from Volume and Area we get $l=\frac {V\_m}{A\_d}$, but what is V?
We know the density of comercial PLA is about $\rho=1.25 \frac{\text g}{\text{cm}^3}$, and we know $m=\times V \rho$. So: $V\_m=\frac{m}{\rho}=\frac{1000}{1.25}\text{cm}^3=800\text{cm}^3$.
Taking this Volume and using the $l=\frac {V\_m}{A\_d}$ we get:
$l\_{d=1.75}=33333.33\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=333.33\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$
$l\_{d=2.85}=12539.18\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=125.39\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$
$l\_{d=3}=11315.41\frac{\text{cm}}{\text{kg}}=113.15\frac{\text{m}}{\text{kg}}$
If the filament is more on the dense side $(\rho>1.25\frac{\text g}{\text{cm}^3})$, then it will have a smaller volume and thus be shorter than this estimate.
To show this better, a graph: This is the length of a filament spool in dependancy of the density. The values were calculated for the usual diameters with their closest neighbors rounded to 0.1 as absolute diameters and run over a broad range of densities commonly used in plastics - 0.7 g/cm³ to 2 g/cm³.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jydly.png)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The 110 meter figure is for 3.0 mm filament that actually is 3.0 mm in diameter. As you (correctly) note, most 3.0 mm filament is often actually closer to 2.85 mm. In that case, the correct figure is indeed around 125 meters. Note that this figure is for PLA filament (see e.g. [my answer here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/1452)). For ABS, being significantly less dense, a 1 kg spool would be around 155 meters.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/08/05 | 407 | 1,356 | <issue_start>username_0: It would be helpful to me if I knew in advance how much the ***empty*** filament spool weighs.
Not having emptied any spool yet, I can't contribute data points, but has anyone compiled a list of empty weights from various manufacturers and sizes?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, there is a table on [Reddit - Empty spool weights for estimating remaining filament](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/4hlwse/empty_spool_weights_for_estimating_remaining/) which suggests that the norm (in 2015) was between 170 and 330 grams for a 1 kg spool, superficially in a bimodal distribution clustered around the high and low points. Presumably these were for 3 mm filament, this post dating to before the popularity of 1.75 mm...
Manufacturer's have an incentive to reduce the mass of their spools, or even ship without spools, since the shipping cost will eat into their profit margin.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Following on from [Sean's excellent answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6558/is-there-a-table-or-list-of-tare-weights-of-empty-spools-of-various-manufacturer/6560#6560), here is the (out of date) table in question:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Mdi0.png "Empty spool weight table")
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/08/05 | 1,651 | 6,600 | <issue_start>username_0: I see plans for various spool holders, either for PLA in the open, or for whatever filament in a dry box, that use 608 bearings. Elsewhere, I see warnings not to oil your filament to make it go through the extruder better, because problems going through mean something else is wrong, and it's better to fix the other thing. So, if I use the 608's, will oil leak on the filament, and is this bad?<issue_comment>username_1: Typically, oiling a filament would mean to use a vegetable based or non-petroleum type of lubricant, possibly even PTFE (teflon) or silicone. Those materials will not damage PLA filament.
Oiling filament is not the haphazard application of lubricant, however. One drop on the filament sponge guide will last a rather long time and should be given sufficient time to distribute itself in the sponge, helping it along by alternately squeezing and releasing the sponge.
Ball bearings of the type you've described will not have oil, unless otherwise modified by the user/owner. The bearings are packed with grease which will not leak out under normal circumstances. Running the bearings at high speed will cause the grease to thin a bit and perhaps drip or if hot enough will "sludge up." If your bearing grease turns to sludge, the bearing has already gotten hot enough to melt out of your plastic fitting.
For spool holder applications, you can clean the grease from the bearing with a suitable solvent (denatured alcohol, acetone, soap and hot water in a pinch) and expect little impact on the drag. The spools rotate at such slow speeds and under such small load that the bearings alone will work nearly forever. This recommendation is void in dusty environments.
With respect to oiling the filament, it's not a bad idea to have a sponge dust catcher that has no oil just as the filament enters the last open location. My bowden extruder system is nearly enclosed and the sponge sits at the very edge of the spool, while a direct extrusion system would have the sponge at the entry to the extruder gears.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Sounds like an instance of bad advice without any real basis in reality.
1. Oil is not bad, and generally only bearings specifically being sold for use with skateboards will be oiled. I don't mean all 608 bearings, but rather 608 bearings intended for/marketed to skaters to use with their boards as opposed to general purpose 608 bearings. You can tell if a bearing is oiled vs. packed with grease by spinning it. A greased bearing will stop almost immediately due to the viscosity of the grease. An oiled bearing will spin under its own momentum for a while after you spin it. But, regardless, grease or oil, the chance that it will contaminate filament in any appreciable way is very small. The skin oil on your fingers that gets deposited every time you load the filament is way more significant than accidental bearing leakage, and either way, it doesn't matter.
2. The advice about not oiling your filament is, well, bad advice. Or perhaps it was simply misunderstood. There is ***nothing*** wrong with oiling filament if done properly, and every little thing you can do to make the filament extrude with that much less resistance is a good thing. And it is certainly not 'bad' to oil filament, as no matter what, it is going to improve the situation.
What that advice is trying to say is that if the extruder is having problems extruding, then oiling the filament is not really a solution. It is never actually necessary to oil filament, and it is not something you should rely on to fix a problem, but rather something that can increase performance. So yes, don't try to make a non-working extruder working by oiling filament. That doesn't mean oiling it is bad, or you shouldn't do it, just remember that at best, it can only hide a problem, but it won't fix it.
3. Despite what the other answer to this question says, **you cannot 'oil' filament with PTFE lubricant, or any other lubricant that is not actually oil, and the purpose is most definitely *not* to lubricate the filament**. You also do not need to do it constantly, just once in the while. And it is only useful in all-metal hotends. Hotends where a PTFE tube all the way past the heat break will not be hurt by oiling, but it won't get much benefit either.
So what is the point of oiling if it isn't to lubricate the filament? Well, when certain types of oil (vegetable oil, shortening, canola oil, etc) is heated for a long time at a temperature of 190°C or higher, the fatty acids oxidize and reorganize, or more accurately, ***polymerize*** into a new plastic-like layer of molecules. This polymer layer acts as an extremely slick coating that is almost as slippery as a teflon coating. Regardless, it is much lower fiction than bare aluminum or stainless steel - having this coating inside your hotend will lower the drag on the filament that much more, which is always a good thing.
If something about this sounds familiar, you probably already know about it under a different name - ***seasoning.*** You know, that thing people often do to cast iron cookware. Only, it isn't actually specific to cast iron - it works just as well with aluminum or stainless steel.
Repeated exposure to hot oil continues to build on this coating, making it more slippery and durable. The polymer coating actually bonds to the metal. And you aren't lubricating anything, that is not the point, you do not need to constantly oil filament. You can lower the extrusion resistance in all metal hot ends by oiling during the first few prints, then oiling a print every once in a while to build up the coating again (which will slowly wear away over time), but it isn't something you really need or should do all the time. And using too much oil during a print can weaken the print's final strength because any excess oil will mix in with the PLA (or whatever it is you're printing with).
One final thing - if you do wish to season your hotend, canola oil anecdotally seems to work the best. Using PTFE lubricant will do nothing, and again, the point of oiling filament is to season the hotend, not to actually act as a lubricant.
The important take away here though, is you don't need to worry about any of this. Just use bearings, don't worry too much about keeping filament clean, just have something to clear off dust and other detritus that might be large enough to clog the nozzle. If you needed to be so vigilant as to worry about oil or grease from bearings, we'd all be using rubber gloves to even touch our filament.
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/08/06 | 790 | 2,970 | <issue_start>username_0: I purchased a glass bed to use with my still-in-transit Ender 3. Since the bed came in before the printer, I pulled it out and used a flat edge ruler to see how flat the glass surface is.
It appears the glass is slightly "dished" in the center from one side and "raised" in the center on the other side. I am wondering if this is a sign of a defective glass, or if it is likely that the glass may change shape slightly as it is heated?
If it does change shape, should it be put with the dish side up or down?
Logic would say that if it does change shape, the bottom would probably get hotter since it is against the heater while the top is slightly cooler, so in theory the bottom may expand more "pulling" the center down?
I guess the bottom line is, should I send the glass back as defective or wait until the printer arrives and see what happens when I heat it up?<issue_comment>username_1: Glass will not change its shape you can watch this interesting video: [YouTube - Fix Your Bowed Glass Build Surface - CR-10 3D Printer](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j9fa86jiv0) .
Or simply change your glass.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: ### TL;DR
Yes, glass warps when hot. Use a physical touch sensor and calibrate it out, or swap glass if it's "bad".
---
The further you go into mechanical studies like 3d printing, mills, and lathes, you will find out that nothing is perfectly flat. Everything has a tolerance to it, whether the manufacturer provided it or not. Better manufacturers provide the tolerance data.
As you have or will find out, *yes*, glass does warp when heated. That is because you are not warming the glass evenly. When hot and cold spots form in glass, the glass tends to warp up or down, depending how the heat travels.
It's common for 0.01 mm warp when a glass bed is brought to printing temps (60-100 °C). If one has a larger format bed, like my Vulcanus at 500x500, 0.03 mm changes are possible.
One can remediate this warping, as it usually appears in the same place during the heat cycle. So if you calibrate **after the bed is heated**, you should reduce said errors. Another more comprehensive way to fix this, is with a physical touch sensor and create a grid map of the bed geometry.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Yes, glass will warp. Think about it this way: the edges cannot be as hot as the centre if you use uniform heating, because they lose heat more quickly.
If the edges are colder, they are also shorter than the hotter centre, which expands more.
If the centre is longer than the edges, it will bend to accommodate the extra length.
You can solve it by placing extra heating along the edges. Once you heat the edges more than the centre, the edges will pull apart the centre, which will result in a flat centre. However, the edges will deform as well, you need just a bit of stretch of the centre, but not so much that it pulls the edges back.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/08/07 | 4,220 | 16,186 | <issue_start>username_0: Let's say I'm modeling a simple box with a lid. Just as an example, we'll say the **outer** edge along the top of the box is 50 mm x 50 mm. With 3D modeling software, it's easy to build a lid for this box to surround the top with an **inner** edge size of also exactly 50 mm x 50 mm ...but this seems like a bad idea. Surely I'll want some kind of of gap, to ensure an easy on/off. An *exact* fit seems like it's asking for trouble.
* How much gap do we leave for this kind of thing?
* Is it related to nozzle size?
* I suppose it also matters how tightly you want to fit, though I expect in cases where a tight fit matters some kind of snap or clip would be used.
* Are draft prints with larger layer sizes useful for figuring this, or do the rough layers make things seem tighter than they'll be in a final print?<issue_comment>username_1: ***Short version:** basically, this depends on your printer, make, model, type, state of maintenance, extruder, slicer settings, belt tension, play, friction, etc.*
---
***Long version:*** Basically your printer determines how accurate it prints; you can influence the accuracy a little by calibrating and fine tuning the printer. What regularly is done is to print [calibration cubes](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) of fixed size. Before you do that, you should read "[How do I calibrate the extruder of my printer?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6483/how-do-i-calibrate-the-extruder-of-my-printer)"; this explains to calibrate the extruder. With a fine tuned extruder you could print those XYZ calibration cubes, or in your case create a box of e.g. 50 x 50 x 15 mm. When you measure the length and the width with a caliper, you will know how much the tolerances are for this print size. Eventually, you could change this by re-adjusting the steps per mm in the firmware of the printer, but this is not always a recommendation (as your steps per mm should be related to the mechanical layout of the used mechanism, e.g. the belt size and pitch in combination with the pulley and the stepper resolution).
Please also look into the answer of "[How to make moving parts not stick together?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6570/5740)"; this answer hints to printing a tolerance calibration model that uses diabolic shapes set apart from the outer object by several values for the offset between the pieces. When you print this you can find out what sort of tolerance works for you. Please do note that the tolerances on smaller parts may be different than the tolerances on larger parts.
The answer on your question thus depends on your 3D printing machine, but usually the tolerance values range in the few tenths of a millimeter. To enable a lid on top of a box like in your example, you need to keep the tolerance in mind when designing the lid. Usually an extra few tenths of a millimeter will do the trick, but if you make some test prints first you will know exactly.
To answer the question what the influence is of layer height on tolerance, I [quote](https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/):
>
> Load a 25 mm cube into your slicer and set the infill to 0%,
> perimeters to 1, and top solid layers to 0. You’ll also want to print
> it at a fine resolution – I chose 0.15 mm and it actualy did make a
> small (0.02 mm) difference in the wall thickness as opposed to 0.3 mm.
>
>
>
So yes the layer height has an effect, it is very little though.
An interesting read is "[A Guide to Understanding the Tolerances of Your 3D Printer](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/a-guide-to-understanding-the-tolerances-of-your-3d-printer)" from "[matterhackers](https://www.matterhackers.com)".
Furthermore, when you have calibrated the printer but still run into small deviations, is that most slicers will allow you to compensate for X and Y dimensions.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes, some clearance is necessary. Even if you were machining perfect metal parts, you would want a clearance gap (and make an allowance for mis-alignment along the Z axis too, long joints can bind quite easily).
In addition to this, you need to make a small allowance for the walls bulging slightly under the extrusion pressure (layer height being less than the nozzle diameter).
Other factors to take into account are layer-change ooze (which often makes a small seam appear), and ripple effects resulting from acceleration. This means that even once you have tested the gap that a specific model requires on your printer, you can't rely on the same gap working perfectly when you design another model. If you require rotational symmetry in your fit, it will be harder to get a good tight joint to be reliable.
Sometimes a print-in-place design can give you a similar effect to a clip together design, but permitting a more positive retention
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I use my clearance values according to my rule of thumb: 0.1 mm - to fit with some force, 0.2 mm - just fit edge to edge without force.
Examples:
1. 3 mm metal cylinder to be pressed into plastic part needs $3\ mm+0.1\ mm\*2=3.2\ mm$ diameter printed hole (clearance from two sides)
2. 3 mm screw to fit into plastic part needs a hole bigger than $3\ mm+0.2\ mm\*2=3.4\ mm$ that is 3.5 mm will be already good.
This is fully experimental but always worked for me on three different printers and both on PLA and ABS.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_4: Since you said nozzle, I expect you mean FDM 3d printing. Typically you would use one (1) outline of gap between the parts. An outline is usually equal to the size of the nozzle. The corners of a 3d printed square object are rounded. The radius of that rounding would be half your nozzle diameter (i.e. the nozzle's radius). Also if there was any over extrusion occurring on the outline it the two parts would not fit within each other. This is of course assuming that they are being designed to easily come apart. Otherwise you can make them an exact fit if you intend to friction fit them together.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I usually print a test cube with different wall thicknesses and calculate the average deviation. This I use as tolerance. However, I do not believe that many belt driven cartesian printers can perform much better than +/- 0.1 to 0.25 mm along the XY-axis. Consequently, I would suggest to use something between 0.1 to 0.25 mm. If it is more than 0.5 mm you have an issue with the mechanics.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: After printing 4 months, I've learned an answer for at least two situations, based on the geometry of the filament and nozzle. For this discussion, I'm using .1mm layers with a .4mm nozzle.
First is the basic box and lid, from my question. It's important to remember the shape of the nozzle opening is a circle, and therefore when extruding to open air you get a cylinder. But we don't extrude to open air. We subtly press the extruded filament into the build surface or previous layer. In that case, using my best ascii art, a cross section of an extruded line of filament has rounded edges that only approximate that .4mm nozzle size, like this:
```
( )
```
And as you lay down several layers, the exterior edge of a printed part should look more like this:
```
(
(
(
(
```
where the outer edge of the curve actually protrudes slightly from the planned dimensions of the part. The question is, "how much"? My experience so far has been as much 0.05 mm. And remember, you need to account for that for both the box part and the lid part. Additionally, when designing the lid, you need to account for this gap on both ends of each dimensional axis. That means a gap of as much as 0.2 mm could still be a nice, snug fit.
For the second scenario, let's say you have a pair of prints that will fit together. The base print includes an upward-pointing rod or cylinder, like a Lego piece, that will slot into a paired opening.
Now you need to create the matching cylinder opening in the upper part, and you need to know how big. The concern is the top of the opening, which has nothing but air below it to hold up the filament. For small gaps you might bridge the distance. For larger gaps you might use support material or hemisphere top.
Let's say you find those options difficult for this scenario, or perhaps other factors have you printing this part laying sideways. so instead of an opening for a cylinder sitting like a can of soup, you print the part as is the cylinder were laying on it's side.
Now we can consider the geometry of how the filament is laid down. With my example nozzle and layer dimensions, we realize your opening *is not the precise circle indicated by the model*. Instead, you have a grid pattern, like old 8-bit computer art. Worse, the width of each "pixel" is up to 4 times greater than the height.
With that in mind, the minimum extra space you need will be 1/2 of that 0.1 mm height, and the wrong situation could extend this to as much as 1/2 of the 0.4 mm filament width. And since this goes all the way around the part (on both sides) you need these distances twice. This is *in addition to* the ridging effect discussed for the box earlier. The result means your rounded part should look for between a gap between 0.3 mm and 0.5 mm, with additional gap space if you're designing a part you may want to scale at some point. Remember, though, that plastic is pliable and if push comes to (literal) shove, sandable. In practice I've done well near the lower end of that range.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: Before we get into nozzle sizes and snap fits, let's start with the bigger picture. We need to use a common language for defining the parts.
* **Allowance** is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.
* **Clearance** is an allowance defining the intentional space between two parts.
* **Interference** is an allowance defining the intentional overlap between two parts.
* **Tolerance** is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension. How much error can the part tolerate and still function?
Let's use an example. We want a 5 mm pin to go into a 5 mm hole, and we want a loose fit between them.
We've said 5 mm, but which 5 mm is more important -- the 5 mm hole or the 5 mm pin? Let's say other people have 5 mm pins they want to use with our hole. In this case the pin dimension is out of our control, and therefore is more important for interoperability.
The loose fit is calling for clearance. Let's specify 0.2 mm so they're free to turn.
We could add the 0.2 mm allowance to the hole, giving a 5.2 mm hole with a 5.0 mm pin; we could subtract the 0.2 mm allowance from the pin, giving a 5.0 mm hole with a 4.8 mm pin; or split the difference in any way we want, such as a 5.1 mm hole and a 4.9 mm pin. Because we specified the pin is more important, we'll add the allowance to the hole.
Now that we have defined our part, let's define other terms important to helping us understand the manufacturing process:
* **Accuracy** is the maximum dimensional variation between parts. (Another word might be repeatability.) Note that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.
* **Precision** is the size of the steps a machine is capable of. Precision is often confused with accuracy, but they are not the same thing.
Now we need to understand our machine's accuracy. The printer could print the pin larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. Or it could print the hole larger than 5 mm or smaller than 5 mm. To determine the printer's accuracy, we'll need to print some 5 mm pins and 5 mm holes and measure the differences between what we defined and what we printed. The difference between the largest and smallest measurements is our machine's accuracy. Be sure to measure the accuracy in the X, Y, and Z dimensions; a printer might have a difference between the X and Y axes that would affect the roundness of the parts. (If it's off, this can usually be adjusted in the machine's firmware through a calibration process.) Furthermore, we should test round parts, round holes, square parts, and square holes, as each printer can be different in how repeatable those parts are.
Let's say that the printer's measured accuracy for both round holes and round pins is +/- 0.2 mm.
Then, we move to clearance. What is the minimum gap between parts that still does the job, and what is the maximum acceptable gap? As the designer, it's up to you to decide. In this example we said we want a loose fit, so let's define a clearance of at least 0.2 mm between the pin and hole, but no more than 1.0 mm or the parts will fall out.
Since the machine's accuracy is +/-0.2 mm, the pin will be anywhere between 5.2 mm and 4.8 mm. The hole must therefore be the maximum pin size, 5.2 mm, *plus* clearance *plus* the accuracy of the hole. That gives the hole dimension as 5.6 mm +/-0.2 mm. The minimum tolerance condition would be a minimum-sized hole (5.4 mm) and a maximum-sized pin (5.2 mm), giving a 0.2 mm clearance; the maximum tolerance would be a maximum-sized hole (5.8 mm) and a minimum-sized pin (4.8 mm) giving a 1.0 mm clearance.
Note that a clearance of 1.0 mm is really sloppy. It might be way too loose for our application. We might think to tighten the tolerances to 0.05 mm in order to reduce the clearance. But we've noted that a machine can't produce a tolerance tighter than its accuracy. If the printer can't produce a part that meets our specified tolerances, we would need to find a different way to manufacture or finish the parts.
In the metalworking world, a common way to do this is to specify the parts to be initially manufactured with intentionally maximal material. This lets us start with a smaller hole and use a bore or a drill bit to open it up to a more precise and round hole. We can do the same thing with a pin, by starting with a thicker rod and turning or grinding it down to make it more smooth and round.
In the FDM 3D printing world, we can do the same kind of thing at the workbench. First, print the parts with an extra wall layer (or two). The extra thickness gives more material to remove while drilling it out, or grinding it down, without weakening the part too badly. After printing, run a drill bit through the hole to clean it up. Or spin the pin in a drill motor's chuck and grind it down with a loop of sandpaper.
Of course, any time you add a finishing operation, it's more labor-intensive and therefore more expensive. So this isn't something we want to do on every part, but we can consider it.
Notice that when you define parts this way you aren't starting with the nozzle diameter or layer height. Instead, you're allowing the nozzle diameter, layer height, belt stretch, and the sum of all the causes of variations to show up in the measured accuracy of the machine. Smaller nozzles, thinner layers, heated beds, slower speeds, or cooling fans may each contribute to improved accuracy, allowing you to print parts with tighter tolerances. But to make successful prints you need to factor in the cumulative impact of all the machine's options.
Once you've got the terminology, it will be much more clear how to factor in an allowance for half the width of the extruded material, which is a function of nozzle width, extrusion rate, and layer height.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_8: Start with your nozzle width for a prototype. I made some 50-80 mm jars with screw-on lids using a 0.4 mm nozzle. I could get the threads to start using 0.15 \$slop parameter (BOSL2 scad library trapezoidal thread at pitch 5 or 6) but couldn't get past 1/4 turn. With 0.4 $slop it turned loosely with just a little bit of play and tightened up nicely.
There are obviously a bunch of parameters that will affect the actual clearance, but nozzle width seems like an excellent rule of thumb for a draft.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: My approach has always been that I'm going to lose material when I sand down the item to remove layer lines, so I generally print to exact fit, and then manually correct with sandpaper or a craft knife.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/08/07 | 1,034 | 3,958 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently, I have heard people talking about masterspool, when talking about 3D printing filament.
* What *exactly* is master spool?
* Where did the idea come from and when?
* Is it being widely adopted? Or to be specific, how many distributors/manufacturers have adopted this already, and is it gaining traction?
* Is this something that I should get excited by?
* If so, why is it such a good idea?<issue_comment>username_1: A masterspool is the practice of printing your own spool out of filament, which will then be used to support your filament you purchase without a spool attached. The main idea is to create a reusable spool and create less waste.
(*NOTE: I'm in no way affiliated with MatterHackers.com, nor am I an endorser of their products.* There is also a version which [Village Plastics](https://www.villageplastics.com/the-filament-koil/) has created.)
On [MatterHackers.com](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/tech-breakdown-the-master-spool) website, they state:
>
> Filament without a spool? Why are we making this? The short answer: because the community wants it. We had enough questions, comments and plenty of tweets asking if we had plans to pick up the Master Spool concept. Seeing the response and interest within the community made it clear to us: we needed to bring this idea to the States. With a joint effort between MatterHackers and Village Plastics, you can now purchase Master Spool refills from within the US.
>
>
>
They are tying to apply the *Reduce, Reuse, Recycle* mantra to create a cleaner environment for the rest of the world. While they are not the first to create or use a printable spool, they are pretty happy to be pressing forward with the idea of having a reusable spool and selling filament without a spool attached.
MatterHackers go on to state:
>
> What are the benefits of the Master Spool? Not only is there the benefit of reducing plastic waste, using a Master Spool will also reduces shipping costs for new spools, and limits the clutter from amassing of a huge collection of used or empty spools. Rather than throwing away, trying to recycle dozens of spools, or trying to come up with a way to reuse them in some (like the Spool Tool), using the Master Spool means you can use all those filament scraps you have laying around on something useful and have one spool for all of your filament.
>
>
>
As far as where it started, it appears to have originated with [this print on Thiniverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1738730) created by [Dingoboy71](https://www.thingiverse.com/Dingoboy71/about). A well known 3D printer named *RichRap* created the reusable spool which MatterHacker promotes, though they say there are several which will work with their product (Village Plastic says pretty much the same).
If you get excited about saving the planet, then you should be excited about this. If you are a robust printer, going through tons (hopefully not literally) of filament per year, this method will save a lot of waste in the long run.
Realize there are (as of this writ) only limited suppliers of spool-less filament, though I think the trend for this type of product will increase in the future as the idea catches on. I guess time will tell.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: One key difference between a 'masterspool' and any old spare empty reel you have left over is that the masterspool is a 2-part design which can be fitted over an existing roll of filament without needing to un-spool and re-spool the whole roll.
The idea being that filament can be packaged and secured for shipment (with cable ties or the like) without needing to include a whole spool every time. The end user can buy/print only as many spools as they need.
This concept also allows for 'extra' features to be included in the spool (such as retention for loose ends) without these features being wasted on every discarded spool.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/08/08 | 1,094 | 4,037 | <issue_start>username_0: Let's say you're printing a container or some other object with no infill. What's a good rule of thumb for how thick to make the outside? I'm looking for something along the lines of millimeters thick per square inch of area.
I'm thinking about PLA right now, but answers for ABS and other materials are welcome, too.<issue_comment>username_1: I make small objects (25mm^2) with 1 to 1.5 mm walls and larger objects (think coffee cups) with about 2.5 - 3 mm walls. I set the line width and number of perimeters to completely fill the thickness.
I use this for ABS and PLA.
The PLA objects have been electronics enclosures, with internal structures to support the parts. They aren't subjected to strong forces. I've made small containers for stain gauges with the amplifiers, and larger ones for greater sequences and Arduino boxes.
I've used ABS also for coffee mugs and beverage glasses, to withstand the mass and temperature of drinks.
It can take some fussing to worry the Slic3r slicing parameters into place. Especially with mugs the design is for function and appearance, not for effect.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This totally depends on what you think is acceptable for your print, and what the usage of the print is: is it a structural/functional part or just for aesthetic purposes. There is no general rule of thumb for that. Basically this is a design issue.
If it has to be stiff and may not flex much you would require to use more walls to give it more rigidity. Less if it is not that important.
When using infill and depending of the part, 0.8 to 1.2 mm walls are frequently used for nozzle sizes of 0.4 mm, without infill you could use the same values, but need to take less rigidity for granted. Add more walls when you need it to be more rigid. Note that the larger the wall surface area becomes (height over width), the easier a wall can buckle under load; increase the wall count to counteract.
In your case (design of a container) I would consider what the purpose of the container is; e.g. how big is it, how much weight is it going to contain (e.g. heavy nuts and bolts, or left over filament pieces), is it stackable, etc. etc. etc.. As a final thought, note that you can play with the design as well, a straight box/container is less stiff than a box with some curved edges or stiffeners. An example of a stackable container is e.g. [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:647425):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AFTuB.jpg)
The indents on the walls of this container give it more rigidity, these walls are in the range of 2 to 3 perimeters.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: As alluded to in username_2's answer, it is important to stick to multiples of your nozzle width for thin shells. If you try to print a 1mm wall with a 0.4mm nozzle, you give the slicer a bit of a challenge in filling the joint between the two outer faces. Maybe it can print a half-width line, by under extruding, maybe not - but a 0.8mm wall is likely to be stronger.
So long as the slicer has more than 3 nozzle widths to play with, it is able to add diagonal fill to build up a solid form (as hinted in this comment on github for cura)
The answer to the question depends completely on the rigidity required. A single (vase) wall can work, particularly for a curved object - but you might find that a stronger lip is required. Although 2 or 3 perimeters will flex, they may be strong enough for your application.
Above this, you may be better off with a 2-sided wall. 2 perimeters each side with a 1mm gap (and a bit of infill) is comparable to a 6 perimeter solid wall due to the increased overall thickness and the compression/extension multiplication. I rarely go above 3 perimeters - if I need extra strength, I resort to punching holes like the slots in [this part](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2566782).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zINop.png)
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/08/08 | 1,364 | 4,811 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a printer with a 0.1 mm typical layer thickness. Of course I can choose some different sizes in Cura or other slicing software, but most prints on this machine will be .1mm. In my (admittedly limited) experience thus far, the 0.1 mm seems typical for other printers, too.
I want to get a sense of just how thick this is. I know about the paper trick for leveling the print bed, but my understanding is the first layer pushes into the bed a little, meaning it's less than 0.1 mm and so paper isn't a good example for the typical layer.
Is there a similar item with close to 0.1 mm thickness I can use to visualize this?<issue_comment>username_1: Sure. Get a 0.1mm thick feeler gauge.
<http://duckduckgo.com/?q=feeler+gauge+.1mm>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm not sure exactly what you mean by your comment to username_1's answer, but with respect to your use of a sheet of paper reference, it seems like you can still use *80 gsm* paper as a reference for 0.1 mm layers.
From [Paper Sizes Explained](http://www.printware.co.uk/Blog/311/Paper-Sizes-Explained.html) (emphasis is mine):
>
> There is no universal calculation for the thickness of paper based on the gsm as varitaions in paper composition can affect the weight, so two different brands of 120gsm paper could have slightly different thicknesses. However, **an average sheet of 80gsm paper, the most commonly used weight, measures approximately 0.1mm in thickness**, which means that *10 sheets would measure 1mm*. By comparison, *10 sheets of 120gsm paper would be 1.5mm thick*, assuming the paper composition was the same.
>
>
>
So, given that:
* 80 gsm => 0.1 mm
* 120 gsm => 0.15 mm
Then
* 40 gsm => 0.05 mm
* 60 gsm => 0.075 mm
From [A Guide to Paper Types and Sizes](http://www.officexpress.co.uk/paper-guide/)
```
Paper Weight Descriptions
Weight Feels Similar to:
35-55 gsm Most newspapers
90 gsm Mid-market magazine inner pages
130-250 gsm A good quality promotional poster
180-250 gsm Mid-market magazine cover
350 gsm Most reasonable quality business cards
```
So, it would appear that you could use a newspaper sheet (or two) to test for layers of less than 0.1 mm. Obviously this would depend upon where in the world you are, and the (physical) quality of your newspapers. Here in the UK, or rather Europe, the *exported version* of the Guardian used to be printed on some extremely lightweight paper (almost transparent tissue thin), in order to keep the costs of transport down to a minimum. So a folded sheet of that would certainly be in the range of 0.75 - 0.99 mm (which seems to be the range that you are looking for). However, given that the printed media (as opposed to the online version) is currently in decline, I am not entirely sure if it is still available.
Or, how about grease proof paper? From the [Wikipedia entry](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greaseproof_paper):
>
> Basis weights are usually 30–50 g/m²
>
>
>
Although, this paper has been processed ([supercalandered](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercalendered)) and treated with starch, which will increase the density, so the thickness will not correlate to the table above (i.e. it will be thinner).
Giftwrap paper (not the really thick stuff) could be another option.
After having doing some long winded googling, I guess that the best bet would be to get hold of a micrometer and measure whatever paper yourself, as the specifications of paper are generally given in `gsm` and not `mm` (which is a bit annoying), and so it is somewhat difficult to provide you with a definitive answer (without physically measuring it).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Maybe a better way to visualise 0.1mm is to explain that it only becomes really visible on a shallow slope. A 10 degree slope will place one layer boundary every 8mm, and these steps will probably be visible on a print.
For a sphere, such as the 3D-hubs marvin, this means that the top portion will have a clear layering, but the majority of the shape should have minimal visible layers. For example, this was printed at 0.1mm layer as a test:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wxrcr.jpg)
You could also say that the layer is about the same as the embossing on a typical coin (using the same photo as a reference), but realise that the resolution of embossing is greater.
Looking inside the eyes of this model demonstrates how a gentle slope exposes the presence of layers.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: IMO, better way for the thickness visualization is the [feeler gauge](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge). Also it can be successfully used for the calibration of gap between the nozzle and the hotbed (instead paper)
Upvotes: 0 |
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