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2020/06/21 | 2,411 | 8,558 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a model of an eye that I custom made in **Blender 2.83** that when printed only creates **roughness** on the printed object near where I had the supports. **The supports are not the cause of the roughness** (at least not completely) since the supports don't even touch the parts of the print where the majority of the roughness and bumps are (**refer to my photos** of the print)
**The roughness is only near the bottom part of the sphere as it prints upwards (refer to photos)**
What I'm looking for is a technique or any suggestions for printing this without the roughness so it's smooth like in the rest of the print. I'm also curious *what* is causing the roughness.
---
**Eye Model in Blender**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNlOr.gif)
**Blender Scale Ratio:** 0.001
**Blender Units:** mm
---
**Eye Model in Prusa Slicer**
Layer Gif
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pluI.gif)
Prusa Slicer Main Settings (Higher Res)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gEV0.jpg)
Variable Layer Heights For Smoothness
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggRpk.png)
---
**Eye Model Prints Photos**
Eye Model Small Version 3D Print (Notice it's **smooth** on top of print)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6tY.jpg)
Eye Model Small Version 3D Print **Trouble Area**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8pa6.jpg)
Eye Model Small & Large Version With Support (Notice **roughness** on the sphere)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4lXuB.jpg)
Example of Support Used On Small Print
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHuyp.jpg)
Smooth on inside of print
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKor2.jpg)
---
**--------- Print Details ---------**
**Printer:** Prusa i3 MK3s
**Filament:** PLA Galaxy Silver (Prusa Reserach)
**Slicer Software:** Prusa Slicer
**Print Temperature First Layer**: 205 degrees
**Print Temperature Other Layers**: 190 degrees
**Notes:** The suggested temperature for the filament is 205-215, I've adjusted after careful calibration given my environment to a lower temperature to reduce stringing. I created a tower at different temperatures and discovered 190 was the perfect setting to reduce stringing in my case with this material. Refer to my screenshot below. **I do not think temperature has anything to do with this since the print is smooth inside and near the top without any issues**.
**Temperature Tower Test For Filament Photo**:
(Note stringing in the cone test areas at 225 to 205)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4i87u.jpg)
---
--------- **Prusa Slicer Settings Photos** ---------
Filament settings
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH8q3.png)
Extruder Settings
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/90NXg.png)
Support Settings
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaBv4.png)<issue_comment>username_1: You can't print them smooth
---------------------------
The short answer is: with FDM you can't make curves that go into the Z-direction. The better question is: Why?
Let's look at why it is rough: the roughness is from the layer height and the thickness of the perimeters (walls). At some point, perimeters of the given thickness have to be placed in a way that does not cover up fully anymore. Let's look at this example of stacking. At first, how looks a sphere close to the equator? well, the stacking is rather easy there. Think of each printed wall as a rectangular crossection and you get this pattern:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbsFP.png)
As we move further up along the print, the overlap between each subsequent layer gets less and less. Somewhere in the middle we are at this situation:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iy609.png)
Till at the top of the dome this happens: The steps appear coarser and coarser and in the end create a very visible and feelable stepping pattern. Also, the top layer might get skipped because it is not a full layer height, depending on the slicer settings..
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nS9vT.png)
Mitigating?
===========
But there are ways to mitigate the sphere problem to some degree.
* reduce layer height a lot on the areas that are curved such heavily, though this has a direct effect on print time and can impact the quality.
* Don't use an FDM printer but an SLS printer with layer heights that are fractions of the layer heights possible with FDM
* Cut up your sphere. An example cut up is [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7749/how-could-i-print-a-large-sphere-like-object/7750#7750), but there are other options. If your print orientation is not mandatory, you can even cut your sphere up and reorient it to achieve this, mitigating both the layer problem as well as making support use 0:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ehNso.png)
Post-Processing
===============
The only true way to get rid of the layer lines is post processing. In this case I strongly suggest to use a filler and then sand off the excess material.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: While username_1 is completely right that the roughness can't be completely eliminated (you can't print a perfect spherical surface with discrete layers), the situation can be improved dramatically. The most telling photo in your question is the one of the removed support structure.
The part of your sphere that's seriously rough is all severe overhang. In this region, the outer wall of layer N+1 barely overlaps the outer wall of layer N, if at all, and without support would be printed mostly or entirely over thin air, failing to attach to anything and sagging/curling down randomly according to tensions in the extruded material, air currents, etc.
Now, with support material that's not entirely the case. Every so often (looks like a 2 mm grid) there are support lines under the overhanging outer wall. These will anchor it every so often and keep it from curling or sagging too much, but they don't actually constrain it to the place the slicer wanted the wall to go, and they don't provide a surface for the extruded material to press against to get the desired (e.g. 0.4 mm wide by 0.1 mm thick) extrusion cross section; instead the cross section will tend to be circular as a result of tensions within the molten material.
In order to get a decent surface over support material, you need what slicers call "Support Interface" or "Support Roof" (these are the names Cura uses; I suspect it's similar in Prusa Slicer). This feature builds a top surface as part of the support material itself for the supported part of the model to rest upon and press against. Of course that can make support harder (potentially a lot harder) to remove, and depends on tuning the Z distance between the model and the support as a tradeoff between quality and difficulty of removal, but it should get you much better results.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I’ve noticed the best way to get it smooth without support is to make the printer print the inner parts of the model first. That way it gives the hanging layer something to hold on to. I turn my window ac unit up to high aim it at the printer so it cools the filament quickly. Next you’re going to want to mess around with the extruder heat. Try to get it as low as possible but watch out for the good gooey bad gooey range. If the first overhanging layer is close to the bed turn the bed heat off. Then tinker with the flow try to get it low but not super low I go as low as 70 
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/21 | 1,121 | 3,848 | <issue_start>username_0: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcLgq.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hyr7P.jpg)
Just got an Ender 3 a week ago. This is my first 3D printer. On the 5th print the object ended up tearing away the surface of the print bed such that it's no longer usable. Trying to work out if this is something that I did wrong or if this is faulty material or a combination of the two?
To set the print head I watched a few tutorials and carefully followed the instructions checking the height with a piece of paper at each corner and in the center and repeated this until it was set.
I watched a couple more tutorials on how to remove the pieces from the bed. I have been removing the top sheet from the print bed by detaching the paper clips. Using the supplied putty knife I've worked around the edges tapping gently with a rubber mallet to get the putty knife under the piece and loosen it before it pops off.
Afterwards I've used the putty knife to scrape off any other residue to make sure that the surface is smooth.
The first 2 prints were with PLA and then the next 3 with PETG. The damage happened when removing a piece printed with PETG.
My specific questions: Is my approach to removing a print incorrect? If so, what would the correct approach be? Did this cause the damage?<issue_comment>username_1: Your print surface is destroyed
===============================
So, you managed to rip off your print surface in the center. Happened to me too. the corners of my scraper were too sharp, cutting the surface. Another time I did pierce the surface with my nozzle. Damage happens. Replacement surfaces for the Ender3 start at about 5 bucks a piece. So get yourself some spares. [Clean your bed before applying the new one.](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7960/how-to-clean-up-my-build-plate-for-a-new-build-surface)
Removal process
===============
To properly remove a print from the bed, grab your scraper blade and do the following:
* Sharpen the edge only on **one** side.
* Soften the corners, they should be slightly rouned.
Make sure the scraper is kept sharp.
When removing prints, be slow! Push the scraper against the bed with the bevel upwards. Apply careful pressure till the tip moves just a little. Move to a different spot till the blade slips under a little, then work the scraper left and right. You'll hear a sucking sound, that's the print coming free. It gets much easier if you let the bed cool down.
For very tall prints with a relatively small area, you might not need the scraper at all.
PETG has a tendency to stick too much with glass and fuse with PEI. We don't know if the Build-Tak clone Creality uses contains PEI. I suggest to grab gluestick to add a safety layer for printing PETG.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: PETG sticks to the bed much easier than PLA or ABS. I've found it harder to release from the bed. Note this reference indicates PETG can cause bed damage.
[https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament#:~:text=Other%20Print%20Bed%20Surfaces&text=It's%20not%20uncommon%20for%20PETG,permanently%20bonds%20to%20the%20surface](https://www.matterhackers.com/news/how-to-succeed-when-printing-with-petg-filament#:%7E:text=Other%20Print%20Bed%20Surfaces&text=It%27s%20not%20uncommon%20for%20PETG,permanently%20bonds%20to%20the%20surface).
If you aren't printing directly on glass, you can use a lower bed temperature to see how it affects the adhesion. Note this reference indicates you don't need a heated bed for PETG on an adhesive surface.
<https://all3dp.com/2/petg-print-bed-temperature-all-you-need-to-know/>
With a PEI sheet on a glass bed at 50C, I'm getting good adhesion without it being too much.
Upvotes: -1 |
2020/06/23 | 1,099 | 4,338 | <issue_start>username_0: Printing supports, either complete, or partially from PVA have not always resulted in successful prints according to my experience with the filament (used in a dual extruder Ultimaker 3 extended). But, when it works well, the surface finish is perfect as there is no gap between the PVA and PLA.
From my experience with PVA, I conclude it is prone to clog, the filament is very hygroscopic, resulting in popping sounds when printing if too moist which most probably also impacts on clogging. The clogs lead to failed support structures as the extruder grinds through the filament and as such failed prints.
I was wondering if PETG can be used for supports or for the interface layer of supports for printing supports for PLA prints? For example:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png "Non scaffolding support structure") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png "Non scaffolding support structure in material color")
This is a sliced view of a print in line color (left or top on small screens) and material color (right or bottom on small screens); black PLA and cream colored PETG. This print contains a larger gap that needs support. Can you make the support from PETG, either the support as a whole or just the top interface.
* How does PLA-PETG or PETG-PLA bond or stick considering the 2 different print temperatures?
* What are the concerns using a single nozzle?<issue_comment>username_1: While it is most certainly possible to use PETG as a support material, you might run into some trouble when the first layer of PETG goes down on top of the PLA. Since PETG prints so much hotter than PLA, the PETG may bond too aggressively to the PLA causing it to become very difficult to remove after the print has finished. I would say the hassle involved in using PETG to print supports outweighs any perceivable benefits as opposed to using PLA.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: PETG works as support material for PLA, see video
In theory, PLA printed on top of PETG will be fine because PETG softens and gets sticky at higher temperatures.
Printing PETG support on top of PLA may cause remelting of PLA, but if PETG is kept quite cold (220 °C) the issue will likely be minor. As shown in the video, it works.
PLA/PETG may still be better than using PLA/PLA because of this difference in extrusion temperatures that, for example in bridges where PLA is printed on top of PETG support, should result in very easily removable supports.
The type of supports used should be tested: tree supports could minimize the contact surface between the two and thus minimize marring by the hotter PETG being deposited onto the PLA at the expense of more PETG and normal supports could be used on a limited surface, so they can be removed easily. If the two materials really don't adhere much to each other, you may even be able to fake dissolvable supports, which increase the contact surface but provide a far better finish for bridges and bottom surfaces.
Using a single nozzle may require experimentation. In my experience, I print PLA at 230 °C so it wouldn't be an issue, and 220 °C would also work, but if PLA is printed cold, below 215 °C, you may need to heat/cool the nozzle. In any case, switching filament (especially PETG -> PLA) requires quite some filament to be discarded, so there is time for the heating. It is however to be kept in mind that cleaning of the nozzle between PLA and PETG (or in fact after any material swap) is difficult: some residue can remain in small gaps or low flow areas of the hotend and will be blended into the stream for quite some time after the swap, resulting in hybrid materials of unknown properties.1
As I said, experimentation is needed for this kind of task: my experience, with a 2012-era hot end, may not even be representative of the behaviour of modern hot ends.
---
1 - this effect is easily noticeable even with similar materials if switching from dark to light color filament, especially if not doing a cold pull to remove most of the material from the melt zone.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/06/24 | 2,983 | 10,006 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm having an issue where prints with narrow tolerance come out fused. This makes it pretty much impossible to print anything with narrow parts. It seems to be mostly (maybe only) an issue in the bottom skin layers. Once it gets through those, the rest of the print goes smoothly and tight tolerances are not a problem.
Here's an example where I've tried to print some hinges:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrtaB.jpg)
It's a test print where each hinge has a different tolerance, so the left and right are expected to look different. Below each real image is a preview layer from Cura showing how it's supposed to look.
The first layer appears OK. The second layer looks a little messy, and the gap between inner and outer circles has shrunk. By the third layer the hinge on the right is completely fused.
The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed (flat glass, no special surface), BLTouch, and Marlin 1.1.9. The slicer is Cura 4.6.1, and for this test print I used the default for "Super Quality - 0.12 mm" at 200 °C and 60 °C bed with no changes. The filament is Mika3D PLA.
Some things I've tried to fix this:
* Calibrated e-steps (currently set at 95.88) - no noticeable difference
* Calibrated flow rate (got 97.859 % but returned to 100 % for this test) - no noticeable difference
* Varying temperatures from 190 to 230 °C by 5 °C increments - no improvement from 200 °C
* Set "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" to -0.1 mm, -0.4 mm, and -1.0 mm in Cura. - no improvement.
* Set "Initial Layer Flow" to 90 %. - no improvement.
* Obsessively leveled and re-leveled the bed. - no improvement.
* Moved the Z-offset up and down to get more or less squish on the first layer - no improvement.
* Tried various brands and colors of PLA - problem is consistent.
* Reduced build plate temperature to 45 °C after initial layer - no improvement.
What else is there to check?
**Edit 2020-06-26:**
At `R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE`'s suggestion I returned the e-steps to default (93), re-leveled the bed, and adjusted the z-offset tighter. I made 10 attempts with varying z-offsets, and here's the best one:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRrSW.jpg)
The first layer looks better! But the second and third layers are just as bad as before, in fact maybe worse. The circle on the right completely fused on only the second layer. And the top surface is just as ripple-ey and messed up as before.
Here's a closeup of the fourth layer to show how bad it is:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7MvW.jpg)
So although the re-calibrated e-steps may have been *a* problem, that clearly wasn't the only problem. What else should I be looking at here?
**Edit 2020-06-27:**
At `Davo`'s suggestion I double-checked all my slicer settings. Flow is set to 100% everywhere, wall thickness is 0.8 mm for two walls (so 0.4 mm each), and nozzle diameter is correct at 0.4 mm.
At `R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE`s suggestion I double-checked my filament diameter. It is set to 1.75 mm. On the actual filament, my digital caliper measures 1.74 to 1.76, within the expected tolerance. So that doesn't appear to be the issue.
At `0scar♦`s suggestion I tried a print with 0.2 mm layer height. Here's the first layer:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFOUo.jpg)
Looks like the same over-extrusion.
Then I tried reducing the flow multiplier to 90% (for both "flow" and "initial layer flow") and printing at 0.2 mm layer height:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oloh.jpg)
Better, but it *still* looks over-extruded!
I don't know what else to try.<issue_comment>username_1: OK, let's start with your pictures. Putting aside the expansion in the XY plane, layer 1 looks seriously underextruded (gaps between the lines, even) while layers 2 and 3 look severely overextruded. It would be possible to achieve this with a reduced first-layer flow setting, but you haven't indicated that, and moreover, in addition to looking underextruded, the first layer's lines don't look very flat - they look a lot thicker than 0.12 mm. I suspect if you can take a caliper with resolution greater than 0.1 mm and measure the thickness of the first layer, you'll find it's at least 0.2 mm thick, maybe more.
So, what's happening? You're overextruding by **a lot**, but have lowered your bed enough to (more than) compensate, giving the excess material in the first layer a whole 0.2 mm or more of vertical space to expand into, preventing it from being pressed against the bed and taking up the horizontal space it should. Now, as soon as you start the next layer, the big problems start. Since the nozzle has only moved up by 0.12 mm, you only have 0.12 mm of vertical space, and the overextruded material gets squeezed out horizontally. Some of it goes down into the gaps between the lines of the first layer. But by the time you get to layer 3, there are no gaps and things go really bad.
What's the source of the overextrusion? Your "esteps calibration". This is not a number you need to calibrate. It's a function of the extruder gear, and for the Ender 3's (including the Pro's) factory gear it's 93.0 (\*).
After you fix the overextrusion by putting esteps back to the right value, you're going to need to re-level your bed. If you use the paper method, make sure there is significant tension on the paper and it does not slide freely under the nozzle at Z=0. If prefer using real metal feeler gauges and moving the nozzle to Z=0.1 to level. (You mentioned that you have BLtouch, which I'm not familiar with, but as I understand it you still need to calibrate it due to possible difference in sensor height and nozzle tip height.)
---
(\*) Note that for compressible filaments like TPU and to a lesser extent PETG, compression of the filament in the gear will alter the effective steps per mm of (uncompressed) filament moved. However, rather than modifying your firmware esteps setting for this, it makes a lot more sense to model that as either a flow adjustment percentage or a narrower filament diameter (since essentially that's what it is -- the filament becomes narrower at the point of measurement), since slicing software supports adjustment of these per-material. So, don't touch esteps unless you replaced extruder hardware.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I think this is resolved. After looking at every conceivable source of over-extrusion and coming up negative, `username_1` suggested that it might be a mechanical problem in Z axis movement, like in [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that).
I checked by leveling the bed and zeroing the Z axis at 0.05 mm above the bed, using a feeler gauge. I gave it the instruction to move the Z axis up by 0.2 mm (to simulate a single layer), then checked it with a 0.25 mm feeler gauge. It did not fit. I raised it .01 mm at a time, and I was not able to insert the gauge until it hit 0.5 mm!
I printed a 20 mm test cube and measured the Z height:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lvq2.jpg)
At 19.58 mm, it was short. Only a little bit though, which is consistent with Z problems only occurring in the first few layers for some reason.
Based on the advice in the other question, I fiddled with the eccentric nuts on the left and right side of X axis gantry, adjusting them to be tight enough that turning the wheels moves the gantry up and down, but loose enough that I can still turn the wheels if I hold the gantry in place.
I checked again with the feeler gauge, and this time the 0.25 mm gauge fit just fine at 0.2 mm. Cool! I printed another test cube and measured:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yq2zW.jpg)
OK, at 20.06 mm it's not perfect, but it's a lot better. I printed the hinges again:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4MYZ.jpg)
Again not perfect, but so much better. And the specific problem of uncontrollable expansion in the 2nd and 3rd layers is totally gone.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a problem with Z-axis' uneven movement. I worked a lot on fixing this and the solution I came up with was to reduce flow in Cura post-processing. You need to measure the movement of the X-axis in the vertical direction on the first layers and calibrate flow. Hope this helps as it helped me.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFMrj.png "Spreadsheet of Ender 3 first layers height")
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same problem with my Ender-3 V2.
You need to check if the feeder bracket is square like explained in [this YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnzNd_FIMKY)
If that is not the problem maybe you need a custom bracket to change the spacing between the Z-motor and the frame like [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080), [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699747) or [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723087)
I have improved mine a lot using:
* [This Z-motor mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080)
* Using [glue stick](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Elmer%E2%80%99s+Disappearing+Purple+Glue+Stick) instead of squeezing the first layer
* [Leveling the bed using a feeler gauge](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDm9OziZ6dY) instead of a piece of paper
* Initial fan speed 100 %, all layers the same
* Same flow rate, line width, line height on all layers
* Build plate 40 °C, nozzle 205 °C
* Seam Corner Preference: Hide or Expose Seam
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/24 | 3,047 | 10,054 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a model that's placed on the bed exactly like on this picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDTcF.png)
I have constant quality degradation as the bed moves down to print in the upper left corner **(1)**.
Everything is fine on the X **(2)-(3)** side. It does not have any visible artifacts. All hell goes along the **(1)-(3)** curve:
[](https://i.imgur.com/EvgyKFi.png)
Top left corner **(1)**:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPGTi.jpg)
On the way from **(1)** to **(2)** lines seem to disappear almost completely.
I used Cura slicer and these printing settings:
* stock ender firmware
* 0.2 mm layer height
* supports
* 2 bottom & top layers
* PETG 235 °C nozzle
* 80 °C bed
* walls x2
* 10 % infill gyroid
* ironing
* seam smart hiding
* 50 mm/s print speed
* 500 / 50 mm/s^2 acceleration / jerks
It looks like a mechanical issue, so I tried tightening/untightening bed bolts. It didn't help. They are a little bit tight, but not too much. The bed does not seem to be wobbling. Also, I tried the bed for wobbling in its top/bottom position. It looks fine along all the way.
What should I try next?
Extruder steps/mm are tweaked for this filament. Extruder produces exactly 97 mm of 100 mm of filament.
### UPD
I decided to change my software/hardware settings step by step. This time I changed only my software settings to these:
* Speed: 30 mm/s
* Acceleration: 3000 mm/s^2
* Retract: 4 mm
* Combing: Not in Skin (previous print had the same value)
* Overhanging wall speed 100% (same as the previous print)
Corners have become much sharper and there is a lot less of bulging on the arc.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpPQU.jpg)
However, by X-axis **(2) - (3)** I see more artifacts:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh7MP.jpg)
Y-axis has become better:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMuZ5.jpg)
Currently, I don't have any visible or sensible bed / X play. I tuned rollers to have enough tension not to slip if rotate them separately. So, if I rotate the roller, it moves the whole bed or X carriage. I'll try increasing the tension a little bit and then I'll share the result.
### UPD2
I've made belts a little bit tighter and decided to print a new model. The layer height is 0.3 mm. Also, I tried increasing temperature up to **240 °C** and changed the stock vent with a circular vent. The wall count is 50 to make the model solid. Coasting is off.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UgZQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZnsB.jpg)
Now all artifacts are along the X-axis. There are many fewer of them at (1) than at (2). The model is a doorstep. On the build plate it's placed like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYrF9.jpg)
Now I think the problem has nothing to do with X/Y play and these two factors can be eliminated. I'll revert belt tensions back to their previous values and decrease the printing temperature down to 225-230 °C.
PS. USBASP is still in customs, so I'm doing all this on the stock firmware.
### UPD3
I have finally figured out what was wrong. It was insufficient Z-belt tension on both sides. A close look at a DSLR camera shot gave me a clue: there was almost always a straight segment followed by a visible additional step down between layers.
There are still some artifacts but everything looks relatively tolerable now.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynYBN.jpg)
Thanks to all of you guys!<issue_comment>username_1: OK, let's start with your pictures. Putting aside the expansion in the XY plane, layer 1 looks seriously underextruded (gaps between the lines, even) while layers 2 and 3 look severely overextruded. It would be possible to achieve this with a reduced first-layer flow setting, but you haven't indicated that, and moreover, in addition to looking underextruded, the first layer's lines don't look very flat - they look a lot thicker than 0.12 mm. I suspect if you can take a caliper with resolution greater than 0.1 mm and measure the thickness of the first layer, you'll find it's at least 0.2 mm thick, maybe more.
So, what's happening? You're overextruding by **a lot**, but have lowered your bed enough to (more than) compensate, giving the excess material in the first layer a whole 0.2 mm or more of vertical space to expand into, preventing it from being pressed against the bed and taking up the horizontal space it should. Now, as soon as you start the next layer, the big problems start. Since the nozzle has only moved up by 0.12 mm, you only have 0.12 mm of vertical space, and the overextruded material gets squeezed out horizontally. Some of it goes down into the gaps between the lines of the first layer. But by the time you get to layer 3, there are no gaps and things go really bad.
What's the source of the overextrusion? Your "esteps calibration". This is not a number you need to calibrate. It's a function of the extruder gear, and for the Ender 3's (including the Pro's) factory gear it's 93.0 (\*).
After you fix the overextrusion by putting esteps back to the right value, you're going to need to re-level your bed. If you use the paper method, make sure there is significant tension on the paper and it does not slide freely under the nozzle at Z=0. If prefer using real metal feeler gauges and moving the nozzle to Z=0.1 to level. (You mentioned that you have BLtouch, which I'm not familiar with, but as I understand it you still need to calibrate it due to possible difference in sensor height and nozzle tip height.)
---
(\*) Note that for compressible filaments like TPU and to a lesser extent PETG, compression of the filament in the gear will alter the effective steps per mm of (uncompressed) filament moved. However, rather than modifying your firmware esteps setting for this, it makes a lot more sense to model that as either a flow adjustment percentage or a narrower filament diameter (since essentially that's what it is -- the filament becomes narrower at the point of measurement), since slicing software supports adjustment of these per-material. So, don't touch esteps unless you replaced extruder hardware.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I think this is resolved. After looking at every conceivable source of over-extrusion and coming up negative, `username_1` suggested that it might be a mechanical problem in Z axis movement, like in [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that).
I checked by leveling the bed and zeroing the Z axis at 0.05 mm above the bed, using a feeler gauge. I gave it the instruction to move the Z axis up by 0.2 mm (to simulate a single layer), then checked it with a 0.25 mm feeler gauge. It did not fit. I raised it .01 mm at a time, and I was not able to insert the gauge until it hit 0.5 mm!
I printed a 20 mm test cube and measured the Z height:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lvq2.jpg)
At 19.58 mm, it was short. Only a little bit though, which is consistent with Z problems only occurring in the first few layers for some reason.
Based on the advice in the other question, I fiddled with the eccentric nuts on the left and right side of X axis gantry, adjusting them to be tight enough that turning the wheels moves the gantry up and down, but loose enough that I can still turn the wheels if I hold the gantry in place.
I checked again with the feeler gauge, and this time the 0.25 mm gauge fit just fine at 0.2 mm. Cool! I printed another test cube and measured:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yq2zW.jpg)
OK, at 20.06 mm it's not perfect, but it's a lot better. I printed the hinges again:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4MYZ.jpg)
Again not perfect, but so much better. And the specific problem of uncontrollable expansion in the 2nd and 3rd layers is totally gone.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a problem with Z-axis' uneven movement. I worked a lot on fixing this and the solution I came up with was to reduce flow in Cura post-processing. You need to measure the movement of the X-axis in the vertical direction on the first layers and calibrate flow. Hope this helps as it helped me.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFMrj.png "Spreadsheet of Ender 3 first layers height")
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same problem with my Ender-3 V2.
You need to check if the feeder bracket is square like explained in [this YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnzNd_FIMKY)
If that is not the problem maybe you need a custom bracket to change the spacing between the Z-motor and the frame like [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080), [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699747) or [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723087)
I have improved mine a lot using:
* [This Z-motor mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080)
* Using [glue stick](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Elmer%E2%80%99s+Disappearing+Purple+Glue+Stick) instead of squeezing the first layer
* [Leveling the bed using a feeler gauge](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDm9OziZ6dY) instead of a piece of paper
* Initial fan speed 100 %, all layers the same
* Same flow rate, line width, line height on all layers
* Build plate 40 °C, nozzle 205 °C
* Seam Corner Preference: Hide or Expose Seam
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/27 | 2,051 | 7,263 | <issue_start>username_0: This is regarding the circuit of my 3D printer Tronxy X5SA's stepper motor for X axis.
**I had an observation:** It has a cooling fan (40X10 24V) which is having issues lately - it stops working sometimes, and when pushed to rotate, spins back.
**Problem:** Now one of the stepper motors (NEMA 17 ~3.5kgfcm) in my core XY has been malfunctioning, where it misses rotation sometimes out of the blue, which shifts the whole print. I thought this is due to the driver limiting the current to the motor, so I rotated the screw terminal clockwise a bit more to allow more current for the motor. This works fine for a while, but the problem comes back.
Now, I also noticed a few times that this issue occurred when the cooling fan for the drivers stopped working.
Can the stopping of the cooling fan cause the stepper motor to falter?
Another observation is that the stepper motor which is faltering is placed close to another stepper motor. Although I know stepper motors can work in extreme conditions, can this cause the issue?
If you require any more info to investigate the issue, please do let me know<issue_comment>username_1: OK, let's start with your pictures. Putting aside the expansion in the XY plane, layer 1 looks seriously underextruded (gaps between the lines, even) while layers 2 and 3 look severely overextruded. It would be possible to achieve this with a reduced first-layer flow setting, but you haven't indicated that, and moreover, in addition to looking underextruded, the first layer's lines don't look very flat - they look a lot thicker than 0.12 mm. I suspect if you can take a caliper with resolution greater than 0.1 mm and measure the thickness of the first layer, you'll find it's at least 0.2 mm thick, maybe more.
So, what's happening? You're overextruding by **a lot**, but have lowered your bed enough to (more than) compensate, giving the excess material in the first layer a whole 0.2 mm or more of vertical space to expand into, preventing it from being pressed against the bed and taking up the horizontal space it should. Now, as soon as you start the next layer, the big problems start. Since the nozzle has only moved up by 0.12 mm, you only have 0.12 mm of vertical space, and the overextruded material gets squeezed out horizontally. Some of it goes down into the gaps between the lines of the first layer. But by the time you get to layer 3, there are no gaps and things go really bad.
What's the source of the overextrusion? Your "esteps calibration". This is not a number you need to calibrate. It's a function of the extruder gear, and for the Ender 3's (including the Pro's) factory gear it's 93.0 (\*).
After you fix the overextrusion by putting esteps back to the right value, you're going to need to re-level your bed. If you use the paper method, make sure there is significant tension on the paper and it does not slide freely under the nozzle at Z=0. If prefer using real metal feeler gauges and moving the nozzle to Z=0.1 to level. (You mentioned that you have BLtouch, which I'm not familiar with, but as I understand it you still need to calibrate it due to possible difference in sensor height and nozzle tip height.)
---
(\*) Note that for compressible filaments like TPU and to a lesser extent PETG, compression of the filament in the gear will alter the effective steps per mm of (uncompressed) filament moved. However, rather than modifying your firmware esteps setting for this, it makes a lot more sense to model that as either a flow adjustment percentage or a narrower filament diameter (since essentially that's what it is -- the filament becomes narrower at the point of measurement), since slicing software supports adjustment of these per-material. So, don't touch esteps unless you replaced extruder hardware.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I think this is resolved. After looking at every conceivable source of over-extrusion and coming up negative, `username_1` suggested that it might be a mechanical problem in Z axis movement, like in [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that).
I checked by leveling the bed and zeroing the Z axis at 0.05 mm above the bed, using a feeler gauge. I gave it the instruction to move the Z axis up by 0.2 mm (to simulate a single layer), then checked it with a 0.25 mm feeler gauge. It did not fit. I raised it .01 mm at a time, and I was not able to insert the gauge until it hit 0.5 mm!
I printed a 20 mm test cube and measured the Z height:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Lvq2.jpg)
At 19.58 mm, it was short. Only a little bit though, which is consistent with Z problems only occurring in the first few layers for some reason.
Based on the advice in the other question, I fiddled with the eccentric nuts on the left and right side of X axis gantry, adjusting them to be tight enough that turning the wheels moves the gantry up and down, but loose enough that I can still turn the wheels if I hold the gantry in place.
I checked again with the feeler gauge, and this time the 0.25 mm gauge fit just fine at 0.2 mm. Cool! I printed another test cube and measured:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yq2zW.jpg)
OK, at 20.06 mm it's not perfect, but it's a lot better. I printed the hinges again:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4MYZ.jpg)
Again not perfect, but so much better. And the specific problem of uncontrollable expansion in the 2nd and 3rd layers is totally gone.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a problem with Z-axis' uneven movement. I worked a lot on fixing this and the solution I came up with was to reduce flow in Cura post-processing. You need to measure the movement of the X-axis in the vertical direction on the first layers and calibrate flow. Hope this helps as it helped me.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nFMrj.png "Spreadsheet of Ender 3 first layers height")
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same problem with my Ender-3 V2.
You need to check if the feeder bracket is square like explained in [this YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnzNd_FIMKY)
If that is not the problem maybe you need a custom bracket to change the spacing between the Z-motor and the frame like [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080), [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4699747) or [this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723087)
I have improved mine a lot using:
* [This Z-motor mount](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2752080)
* Using [glue stick](https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Elmer%E2%80%99s+Disappearing+Purple+Glue+Stick) instead of squeezing the first layer
* [Leveling the bed using a feeler gauge](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDm9OziZ6dY) instead of a piece of paper
* Initial fan speed 100 %, all layers the same
* Same flow rate, line width, line height on all layers
* Build plate 40 °C, nozzle 205 °C
* Seam Corner Preference: Hide or Expose Seam
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/28 | 360 | 1,184 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a repair part that I need to print with ABS and I know that I have warping problems with ABS.
I'm now trying to mitigate this by printing a circle around my object and use more brim. You can consider this as a manually designed skirt, but I want the brim to be on both sides of the skirt.
However, when slicing the repair part with the ring, I get brim only outside the "skirt", not inside of it.
How would I get brim also in the area marked here?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQiOx.png)<issue_comment>username_1: When there's a cut in the outer ring (the manual skirt), Slic3r will fill the area as expected:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lb2np.png)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t2WwV.png)
Prusa Slicer 2.2.0 in print settings
skirt and brim, set distance from object to zero
Other slicers should have same capability. As long as you have two parts on the bed that are not distinctly separated, you'll get only one brim.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/29 | 971 | 3,797 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm printing with anycubic i3 mega on an ultrabase bed. When I first got the printer the prints were easy to remove from the bed after it cools down, I didn't need to put any extra effort. However after I used 70% isopropyl to clean it it seems I removed some kind of extra coating as all next prints were sticking to the bed firmly even after the bed cools down. So I tried to heat the bed up to 100 degrees and then cool it down and wait until it gets to something like 35, at that point print comes off quite easily (really helped me with some big parts with huge initial layer) so I wonder if I should just add that extra heating cycle to the end of each print job.
Is there any possible problems with that?
PS my understanding is that PLA should be okay with short temperature spike since it is being melted with twice as high heat. However long exposure to that temperature might cause some deformation (eg if I throw the printed part into dishwasher).
Another possible concern is that extra heating cycle could potentially shorten life of the ultrabase, but not sure if it is the case.
UPDATE
so after some experiments I printed at least a dozen calibration cubes adjusting several parameters along the way as it seems each of them contributed to the issue
* I decided to reset initial layer thickness which I noticed was set to `0.25` when normal layer was `0.2`. Since it was thicker for better adhesion I thought I don't need it since I don't have problem with sticking to the bed :)
* second thing was the flow adjustment and enabling some layer filling settings in cura (filtering small holes etc). Ended up at `91%` flow rate which gave me much cleaner top layers as well as the bottom ones.
* and finally I played with `Z offset`, I did bed leveling recently so it was flat (did single layer tests to check that) but it might have been a little bit too high, so adding an offset seems like a good way to compensate for it. The thing I was looking after as a feedback here is the squeezing bottom layers issue, so I stopped once I got initial layers a bit smaller than the ones on top, went back a few values and ended up with `0.125 mm` which sounds quite big to me but it allowed to get initial layer very clean and consistent with next layer so I think I got it right.
I can say it is easier to remove the cube from the bed now (used to be very difficult and I was using a mallet almost every time in the beginning) but it still doesn't come off on its own. I also noticed that now all three dimensions are almost identical (Z was about `0.5` less). And all X/Y/Z are ~19mm after cube cools down (the model is 20mm) so I wonder if I need to fix that one now<issue_comment>username_1: Heating PLA even to 60°C will make it pliable and may affect dimensional accuracy; 100°C is likely to make that severe. Being stuck to the bed and thus constrained by it might help some, but I think it's a bad idea.
If your PLA is hard to remove, you probably have bed leveling issues. PLA should remove easily after cooling from reasonable print-time bed temperatures of 40-60°C to room temperature as long as it has not been extruded against the bed with excessive force (from being too close and having nowhere else to go).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You did exactly the right thing:
1. look,
2. see,
3. think,
4. evaluate and adapt
5. test
6. Back to 1. or continue to 7.
7. Solution found and applied!
Congrats!
Johan
Ps: I use the tape in paper, used to mask before paint jobs, I was not that keen as you! It always comes off, and I restart every time with a clean glass, no hairspray, glue or others. They cost nothing, and if you are handy, you can use 100mm wide stripes. (or just the amount needed for your part.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/01 | 690 | 2,583 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently bought some SUNLU PLA black filament and was attempting a small print with it and it started to come out in strings and lumps and was incredibly inconsistent. Before this I'd been using some Eryone PLA and those prints were superb, been printing back to back successfully but after using the SUNLU all of my prints since have been having layer separation issues. I've cleaned the extruder, taken off the fan and cleared out the hotend of some wisps of filament, then flushed it through with some more reliable filament which looked better and replaced my magnetic bed sticker with a new one as the adhesion on the initial layer was poor even though the bed looked level. Once I replaced the sticker, the adhesion on the first layer is excellent. I thought I'd fixed the problems so tried an XYZ cube and still getting serious layering issues and the infill is thin. Any ideas what else I could do to fix this problem? I've put slicer settings below:
* Hot end temp: 210 °C
* Bed temp: 60 °C
* Fan speed: 100 %
* Print speed: 50 mm/s
No custom modifications to the standard Cura profile for the Ender 3.
My filament diameter setting in Cura is 1.75 mm and so is my filament.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja49h.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/so9S3.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: This is under extrusion, not delamination. Delamination is the result of the under extrusion.
It typically happens when the wrong filament diameter has been set in the slicer (a larger diameter than used, e.g 2.85 mm instead of 1.75 mm). Another option is that you accidentally put the printer in volumetric printing mode which is accessible through the display of the printer:
`Control -> Filament -> E in mm³ -> Disable`
Other solutions may be found in the extrusion process, e.g. the extruder may be skipping.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Just to update on this, it wasn't directly a configuration setting, it was actually a blockage in the hotend (I suspect because the PTFE tube had become unseated from some black filament that was stated as 1.75 mm but I think it had a larger diameter). After clearing through my hotend with some PTFE tube, I found a disk of the black filament I initially started having this problem with. The issue was resolved once I cleared through the hotend and I now check all my filament with my digital callipers to be sure it's the correct diameter before running it through to save me heaps of pain.
Upvotes: 3 |
2020/07/02 | 1,106 | 4,025 | <issue_start>username_0: I am completely new to 3D Printing. I got my first printer, a Creality Ender 5 Pro, yesterday.
### My problem
I shutdown the printer without the axis being in home position (**X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 320** instead of **X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 0**). I thought this should be no problem but after turning the printer on again the info screen showed the axis position as 0, 0, 0 again.
So, I can't move the Z axis up now because the printer thinks it's already at 0.
NOTE: On the Ender 5 the bed lowers for increasing values of the Z. So 320 is the lowest and 0 the highest. I know that the motor works because it tries to go down further if I increase the Z position, but I am scared of damaging the motor because it can't move further but it tries to (judging by that weird sound).
### My question
Is this a normal behavior that the printer axis cant remember its position? Because I think when I built the printer the axes were also not at the 0, 0, 0 position and on the first start they moved back without any problems.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this? Or is this a broken printer?
PS: I could replicate this behavior on X and Y as well (moving them with prepare->move axis and then shutting down the printer). But in this case, I can easily disable the motors and move them manually back to 0, 0. This isn't the case for the Z Axis.
I hope I explained that understandably.<issue_comment>username_1: Once you pull the plug or disable power to the stepper motors, the printer forgets its location. That is perfectly normal and exactly how it is supposed to work.
The printer knows where the printer volume is once you have "homed" the printer. Homing is done prior to printing with G-code [`G28`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29) which should be present in your start G-code script of your slicer. Once homed, the offsets from the endstops determine where the origin of the printer is and the maximum dimensions determine the build volume.
After you switched on the printer, the printer doesn't know where the origin is and movement is limited. E.g. when the following constant is defined: `#define NO_MOTION_BEFORE_HOMING` no movement at all is possible before the printer is homed, this can help prevent destroying the printer.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Slightly unscrew the motor. Manually rig the Z-axis above its lowest point. Rescrew the motor back into place tightly. Then auto home it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: *(Summed up from several entries in this thread.)*
It is an untrue statement that the printer *can't move back to home anymore*, until the G-Code [`G28`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G028.html) is executed. **The printer can home, but must be ordered to do it.**
There are several **ways to home the printer** *(LCD hints are for Marlin firmware)*:
* Start a print, which (by the book) includes `G28` in its initial part
* Use the LCD menu option to home all axes: `Prepare > Auto Home`
* Use the LCD menu options to home single axes, for example: `Prepare > Auto Home Z`, after they are activated by adding the following to the *Configuration.h* file:
```
#define INDIVIDUAL_AXIS_HOMING_MENU
```
* Add your own options to the [custom menu](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7676/how-to-add-menu-options-to-the-marlin-firmware-lcd-menu/15216#15216) in the LCD: `Custom Commands > Your command` - for example to have more complex scripts at hand, like a custom sequence of axes, multiple repeats, different back-off behavior, or move to center of bed (G-Code snippets)
* The current position may be updated with G-Code [`G92`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G092.html), and this hack may be useful when a print gets stuck (e.g., power outage, thermal issue) and there is no space any more to home Z, but its actual position is known from the print file (the remaining part?) Set the known position of Z (`G92 Znnn`) and let X and Y home the standard way (`G28 X Y`)
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/07/03 | 1,040 | 3,687 | <issue_start>username_0: All my prints come out about 1 mm too short in the Z dimension. So for example a 20 mm cube comes out 19 mm high. A 10 mm cube comes out 9 mm high. The X and Y dimensions are fine. There's a little bit of visible elephant's foot at the bottom, so I assume whatever is happening is in the first couple of layers. The problem is fairly consistently around 1 mm even for larger prints.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pjuev.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSPfi.jpg)
The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed and BLTouch for automatic leveling, but otherwise stock.
I had a [similar issue with another Ender 3 Pro](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13940/expansion-in-bottom-skin-after-first-layer) that was resolved thanks to a link to [this question about problems in the first 3 mm](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that). The solution was turning the eccentric nuts on the left and right to loosen the rollers that connect the X-axis gantry to the vertical posts. There the Z issue was not as pronounced, and I was getting really messy prints in the first few Z layers. Here that is not an issue; the first few layers look fine while they're printing. Loosening the rollers did not resolve it.
Things I've tried:
* Tightening and loosening the gantry rollers using the eccentric nuts. They're currently just tight enough that turning them moves the gantry, but loose enough that I can turn them without moving the gantry if I hold it still.
* Tightening and loosening the two little screws that attach the extruder mount to the Z-axis lead screw. Currently I made them just tight, then backed off 1/4 turn.
* Adding a shim between the vertical post and the Z-axis lead screw. The lead screw is now pretty much parallel to the post.
* Slowly turning the lead screw by hand to raise and lower the gantry. There's no noticeable catching or increased resistance anywhere.
* Varying the brand and type of PLA filament.
* Varying the temperature from 190 °C to 210 °C.
* Obsessively leveling and re-leveling the bed. Manually leveling, auto leveling with the BLTouch, and adjusting the z-offset.
I'm using the stock Ender 3 Pro profile in Cura, and printing at 0.2 mm layer height. I've kind of run out of things to check. What else can cause Z height loss in the first few layers like this?<issue_comment>username_1: I have the exact same issue on my Ender 3 V2, perfect bed level using a dial gauge,
perfect first layer test prints (printing 9 squares all 1 layer high).
I can only get rid of it two ways:
1. Using a Raft as you have said (annoying).
2. Adjusting the Z-height Just exactly as the 1st layer finishes. I raise the height by 0.15-0.20 mm (in my case), and the resulting elephant foot is about 80-90 % better.
I recommend you follow Luke Hatfields guide on Ender 3 rework for The X-Gantry, as well as his other sections. Youtube channel "Edge Of Tech" does a decent job covering the rework in video form. Following most of these reworks I have made everything else in the print absolutely perfect, unfortunately EF remains.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Do you have any “slop” on the right side (non motor) of the gantry?
I’ve noticed that my gantry will settle on the right side and lag behind the motor driven - ever so slightly - when it starts to drive up. It will, after that first lag, move fine for the rest of the time. Z axis travel seems barely affected but all my prints are consistently about 0.5 mm short.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/07/03 | 601 | 2,241 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a few 3D printers and now want to start building a custom 3D printer.
I want to build a 3D printer with multiple nozzles, and I want to make the hotend thin so the nozzles can be closer together.
What is the thinnest nozzle avalible to buy?
Are there any guides or details on how I could make a custom nozzle or modify a nozzle if I can't buy a thin nozzle?<issue_comment>username_1: The size of the nozzle usually isn't the main factor for how close you can put nozzles together. To keep the filament drive gear system from being the limiting factor, you would need Bowden extruders. "Then, the heat sinks and fans would be your limiting factor. Have you considered a single nozzle with three extruders? Otherwise, you need custom angled heat sinks similar to the three heat sinks on a single nozzle, and still a way to orient the nozzles at the same Z-height. That would be difficult if all the nozzles are on the same heater block. It still seems that nozzle size is the least of the issues of putting nozzles close together.
If you search for smaller nozzle sizes, you will get nozzles with smaller openings, not smaller overall size. The threads on the nozzles are a standard size. Thus, the smaller opening size can't be put closer together than the larger opening size. Otherwise, you have only small variations between different types of nozzles and need room to screw them in to the heater block if you put all of them into one block. You can get a nozzle using a 6 mm hex wrench that is smaller than one using a 7 mm hex (E3D).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: One of the thinnest hotends I've seen are those from a Chinese factory Mellow Store, the heatsink is smaller than the top flange to mount the hotend. I don't know the quality of these hotends, the image below shows the basic layouts of available options:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsvUL.jpg)
Ultimaker uses high quality hotends which are pretty small 2.85 mm hotends they call "cores", they house 2 next to each other and use a lifting mechanism:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl0mt.png)
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/05 | 593 | 2,250 | <issue_start>username_0: I am building a medium-sized printer which needs to produce super-precise parts at a moderately fast print time. I frankly don't want to deal with belts or their tension issues but on the other hand, having ball screws on each axis will increase inertia...right?. I'm using Rexroth rails and will use (depending on what I decide) name brand belts or name brand ball screws.<issue_comment>username_1: The size of the nozzle usually isn't the main factor for how close you can put nozzles together. To keep the filament drive gear system from being the limiting factor, you would need Bowden extruders. "Then, the heat sinks and fans would be your limiting factor. Have you considered a single nozzle with three extruders? Otherwise, you need custom angled heat sinks similar to the three heat sinks on a single nozzle, and still a way to orient the nozzles at the same Z-height. That would be difficult if all the nozzles are on the same heater block. It still seems that nozzle size is the least of the issues of putting nozzles close together.
If you search for smaller nozzle sizes, you will get nozzles with smaller openings, not smaller overall size. The threads on the nozzles are a standard size. Thus, the smaller opening size can't be put closer together than the larger opening size. Otherwise, you have only small variations between different types of nozzles and need room to screw them in to the heater block if you put all of them into one block. You can get a nozzle using a 6 mm hex wrench that is smaller than one using a 7 mm hex (E3D).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: One of the thinnest hotends I've seen are those from a Chinese factory Mellow Store, the heatsink is smaller than the top flange to mount the hotend. I don't know the quality of these hotends, the image below shows the basic layouts of available options:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MsvUL.jpg)
Ultimaker uses high quality hotends which are pretty small 2.85 mm hotends they call "cores", they house 2 next to each other and use a lifting mechanism:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl0mt.png)
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/07 | 674 | 2,560 | <issue_start>username_0: I am new here and also new for the 3D printers world. I have built a 3D printer myself. Everything seems okay, but, when I install Marlin firmware I can't use the printer.
While my printer is connected to my power supply (12 V; 30 A) and when I push the button on the screen for selecting the menu items, Marlin is restarting.
But, when I connect my computer with USB and power supply together, Its working fine
I am using RobotDyn Arduino Mega 2560, RobotDyn Graphic LCD controller, RobotDyn DRV8825
Any help will be highly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.
The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.
It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This causes trouble when you power Arduino from RAMPS, because RAMPS sends 12 V to Arduino through Arduino's Vin pin, and this 12 V goes to Arduino's voltage regulator, which should reduce it to the 5 V used by ATMega MCU.
The question is, probably the Arduino's onboard voltage is running almost at its capacity and, when you press the button, the extra processing load or the redrawing of the display makes Arduino reset.
The solution would be disconnect diode D1 in RAMPS, and power Arduino from USB, or feeding 5V directly to Arduino's 5 V pin (not Vin).
A third option (more complex) would be feed about 7 V to Arduino barrel power-connector. This lower voltage would reduce the task of Arduino's onboard regulator. My 3D-printer uses an Arduino clone, but, as I discovered about this problem before building it, I've never powered it from RAMPS. I dessoldered D1 on RAMPS and, since the first day, Arduino was powered from USB, or from a DC-DC buck converter that reduces 12 V to 7.2 V.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You are right! This thread help me solve a 1 year old problem. I had to buy a new LCD(different model) because I had the same problem. Every time I press down the controller button the system resets. Your clue about it having something to do with the speaker helped solve this mystery.
I had to comment out #define SPEAKER and it is now working.
This is a strange bug that only occurs with a the SKR-E3mini V2 and the most basic 12864 LCD AND Marlin 2.1.1. I have 2 printers so I can pretty much confirm in my case it only occurs in this particular configuration.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/07 | 739 | 2,701 | <issue_start>username_0: 
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fDW1.jpg)
I'm just finishing the set-up of a CR-10 Max. It is a new printer.
I don't manage to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor.
I can hear the micro switch click; the LED turns blue, then a few millimeters after that (33 mm total from the entry point), there is something that prevents the filament from going forward. I don't see any switch on the outside of the sensor, and I applied a reasonable amount of force on the filament.
Can you tell me how to troubleshoot this ?<issue_comment>username_1: If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.
The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.
It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This causes trouble when you power Arduino from RAMPS, because RAMPS sends 12 V to Arduino through Arduino's Vin pin, and this 12 V goes to Arduino's voltage regulator, which should reduce it to the 5 V used by ATMega MCU.
The question is, probably the Arduino's onboard voltage is running almost at its capacity and, when you press the button, the extra processing load or the redrawing of the display makes Arduino reset.
The solution would be disconnect diode D1 in RAMPS, and power Arduino from USB, or feeding 5V directly to Arduino's 5 V pin (not Vin).
A third option (more complex) would be feed about 7 V to Arduino barrel power-connector. This lower voltage would reduce the task of Arduino's onboard regulator. My 3D-printer uses an Arduino clone, but, as I discovered about this problem before building it, I've never powered it from RAMPS. I dessoldered D1 on RAMPS and, since the first day, Arduino was powered from USB, or from a DC-DC buck converter that reduces 12 V to 7.2 V.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You are right! This thread help me solve a 1 year old problem. I had to buy a new LCD(different model) because I had the same problem. Every time I press down the controller button the system resets. Your clue about it having something to do with the speaker helped solve this mystery.
I had to comment out #define SPEAKER and it is now working.
This is a strange bug that only occurs with a the SKR-E3mini V2 and the most basic 12864 LCD AND Marlin 2.1.1. I have 2 printers so I can pretty much confirm in my case it only occurs in this particular configuration.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/11 | 659 | 2,476 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently got an Ender 3 V2 and when I go to Info -> Version it says V1.0.0. [However online, there is V1.0.1 available.](https://www.creality.com/download/)
How can I update the Ender 3 V2. It is different as it isn't a ATMEL chip like the ATMEGA 2560 but rather an ARM processor. I own many arduino boards but apparently the chip has the bootloader already on it.
So how can I update the board, through some uploader, specific software or what exactly.<issue_comment>username_1: If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.
The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.
It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This causes trouble when you power Arduino from RAMPS, because RAMPS sends 12 V to Arduino through Arduino's Vin pin, and this 12 V goes to Arduino's voltage regulator, which should reduce it to the 5 V used by ATMega MCU.
The question is, probably the Arduino's onboard voltage is running almost at its capacity and, when you press the button, the extra processing load or the redrawing of the display makes Arduino reset.
The solution would be disconnect diode D1 in RAMPS, and power Arduino from USB, or feeding 5V directly to Arduino's 5 V pin (not Vin).
A third option (more complex) would be feed about 7 V to Arduino barrel power-connector. This lower voltage would reduce the task of Arduino's onboard regulator. My 3D-printer uses an Arduino clone, but, as I discovered about this problem before building it, I've never powered it from RAMPS. I dessoldered D1 on RAMPS and, since the first day, Arduino was powered from USB, or from a DC-DC buck converter that reduces 12 V to 7.2 V.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You are right! This thread help me solve a 1 year old problem. I had to buy a new LCD(different model) because I had the same problem. Every time I press down the controller button the system resets. Your clue about it having something to do with the speaker helped solve this mystery.
I had to comment out #define SPEAKER and it is now working.
This is a strange bug that only occurs with a the SKR-E3mini V2 and the most basic 12864 LCD AND Marlin 2.1.1. I have 2 printers so I can pretty much confirm in my case it only occurs in this particular configuration.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/17 | 697 | 2,628 | <issue_start>username_0: On a Creality CR-10 Max, there is a bag of unidentified spares, which include three unmarked nozzles.
There is a needle that is exactly 0.4 mm in diameter, which needle fits exactly inside one of nozzles. It also fits loosely in the largest nozzle, which diameter looks like it's really close to 0.8 mm on my digital caliper. The smallest one has only room for the tip of the needle, and the digital caliper reads 0.34 mm on the tip of the needle when pushed from the inside of the nozzle.
I assume the sizes are: 0.8 mm, 0.4 mm and 0.3 mm.
Can you tell me how to measure the diameter with better accuracy?<issue_comment>username_1: If the trouble was just a short between 5 V and ground, the board probably would restart whenever you pushed the button, with all kind of power sources.
The fact that the Arduino restarts only when powered from RAMPS makes me wonder another cause for this problem.
It's well known that most of Arduino clones don't have a good voltage regulator onboard. This causes trouble when you power Arduino from RAMPS, because RAMPS sends 12 V to Arduino through Arduino's Vin pin, and this 12 V goes to Arduino's voltage regulator, which should reduce it to the 5 V used by ATMega MCU.
The question is, probably the Arduino's onboard voltage is running almost at its capacity and, when you press the button, the extra processing load or the redrawing of the display makes Arduino reset.
The solution would be disconnect diode D1 in RAMPS, and power Arduino from USB, or feeding 5V directly to Arduino's 5 V pin (not Vin).
A third option (more complex) would be feed about 7 V to Arduino barrel power-connector. This lower voltage would reduce the task of Arduino's onboard regulator. My 3D-printer uses an Arduino clone, but, as I discovered about this problem before building it, I've never powered it from RAMPS. I dessoldered D1 on RAMPS and, since the first day, Arduino was powered from USB, or from a DC-DC buck converter that reduces 12 V to 7.2 V.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You are right! This thread help me solve a 1 year old problem. I had to buy a new LCD(different model) because I had the same problem. Every time I press down the controller button the system resets. Your clue about it having something to do with the speaker helped solve this mystery.
I had to comment out #define SPEAKER and it is now working.
This is a strange bug that only occurs with a the SKR-E3mini V2 and the most basic 12864 LCD AND Marlin 2.1.1. I have 2 printers so I can pretty much confirm in my case it only occurs in this particular configuration.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/21 | 884 | 3,526 | <issue_start>username_0: I had filament on my 3D45 coming out of threads on the nozzle.
To fix this I removed the nozzle to find the PTFE Liner in really bad shape. It looked crushed and deformed. Now the tough part, how do I replace the PTFE Liner. You can't seem to buy the liner and getting a replacement nozzle assembly from Dremel takes weeks. Can anybody help me figure this out please, I really would like to get back to printing!!<issue_comment>username_1: The initial problem you had with filament coming out of the threads at the nozzle is caused by improper seating of the heat break to the nozzle. In a "from the ground up" installation, you'd have an empty heat block, containing your heater core and your thermistor. Threaded into the "bottom" of the block is the nozzle, just a turn shy of being flush with the heat block. The heat break is the thin threaded segment extending from the heavily finned heat sink.
The heat sink/heat break combination is threaded into the heat block until it contacts the nozzle, at which time, the nozzle is snugged into place securely. This keeps continuous the filament path from the heat break to the nozzle. Somewhere in time, a gap opened between the two.
When you have assembled everything (including the PTFE liner), you'll want to heat the extruder assembly to about 250 °C and re-snug the nozzle to the heat block and heat break. Hold securely the heater block, as you do not want to apply force that will snap or otherwise damage the fragile heat break. Use a wrench that fits the heater block without contacting the wiring. Use a wrench that will keep your fingers safe, as the heat block will be hot.
Stepping back in time a bit, when you remove the assembly, you should be able to determine the necessary length for the PTFE tube. I checked the manual for your printer and it is lacking in detail for this information. The diameters you've specified are standard and you should be able to locate a suitable substitute from many online sources. Amazon, Matterhackers, eBay, etc.
Examine the heat break tubing. The diameter should not be so small as to allow you to push the PTFE tubing in from the heater block side, unless you have an unusually manufactured product. Dremel may have decided to create a new bit of engineering, but I'd expect not.
You'll purchase more PTFE than required and examination of the upper portion of the heat sink should give you a clue how much to use. When the cover of the extruder assembly is removed, is there a guide for the filament to make it easier to push through the PTFE tubing? If so, the length of the PTFE is from the bottom of the guide to the bottom of the bore of the heat sink/heat break assembly.
Photos of the upper entry to the heat sink/heat break, with the cover removed, would be useful, but you may have sufficient resources in hand to resolve your problem, once you replace the nozzle and purchase PTFE tubing of the correct size.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Capricorn sells 3x2mm ptfe heat break tube. Havnt used it long enough to know if it will hold up to its claims of withstanding temps up to 275c and beyond for any length of time; but I do know the generic ptfe I had in it before lived up to its reputation of going funny at 240c even though they sell it as rated for 250c. But capricorn has a good reputation in general it seems; and I can already testify that the reduction in friction in my bowden tube certainly did live up to the hype, so id recommend giving them a try.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/07/23 | 881 | 3,861 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm printing 6 separate parts in one go, after 4 hours of printing one part failed, but the other 5 are printing nicely.
Is there a way to prevent the print from printing the failed part and continue printing the other 5 parts.
I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printer.<issue_comment>username_1: No, once you sliced the 6 parts on the build plate in your slicer, the G-code is fixed and the printer will print as the sliced instructions. During printing it cannot skip the code of a part that failed along the way; there is no way to interfere with the printing other than stopping the print. For that reason, many people don't pack the build plate too full, the more parts, the higher the chance it fails. You could print the part one after each other. Packing the plate with multiple parts is usually not faster than printing one at a time (if it fails you have nothing, otherwise a single failed print).
Depending on the size of the parts you can also tell the printer to print each part on the plate one after another in a single job; note that the printhead dimensions limit this. If one fails you stop the job, but the already printed parts are saved. You can then commence a new print of cut the G-code and reprint the shortened file.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you use the [OctoPrint](https://octoprint.org/) print manager, you can exclude regions to be printed using the [Exclude Region](https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/excluderegion/) plugin. The description states that it can be used to rescue partially-failed prints:
>
> The intent of this plugin is to provide a means to salvage multi-part prints where one (or more) of the parts has broken loose from the build plate or has otherwise become a worthless piece of failure. Instead of cancelling an entire job when only a portion is messed up, use this plugin to instruct OctoPrint to ignore any gcode commands executed within the area around the failure.
>
>
>
Other print managers may provide similar facilities.
I'm not sure if it will enable you to rescue your current print job.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Mick is right that you can do this with OctoPrint and maybe other print managers, and username_1 is right that there's no way to get the printer to stop printing the no-longer-wanted part when printing without a print manager (since it doesn't know about objects). However there is a way to recover and keep the non-failed parts if you're willing to waste material printing the rest of the failed part. It involved having a recovery tool built in advance, though.
Basically, you need an adjustable-height platform you can temporarily glue to the bed where the failed part would have been, small enough not to interfere with other parts but large enough to cover at least most of the area the failed part should have been in. The surface of the platform needs to be something your material will adhere to, ideally the same material you're printing with.
With the print paused and the head parked to the side, glue the platform to the bed and adjust its height using the depth-measurement function of a caliper to match the current layer height. Alternatively, you could use a straight-edge resting on two adjacent printed parts to match the layer height, but that risks dislodging them.
After it's attached and adjusted properly, resume printing.
I have not tested this with tall parts, but I have successfully made such "platforms" with layers of blue tape for small parts, and see no reason the concept should not scale to arbitrary height as long as you can get sufficient adhesion and match the layer height sufficiently well. Designing a sufficiently adjustable and reusable one (with adjustment mechanism that doesn't interfere above the desired height) would be an interesting project.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/07/25 | 711 | 2,689 | <issue_start>username_0: Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.
Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319> (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.
After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?
Corner pice:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGeA2.jpg)
Center piece:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfSas.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually this is not leveling alone, but it looks like the bed is not a perfect plane/perfectly flat. This is normal, my ikea mirror and my stock bed show the same thing. Now here's one solution:
Print calibration stickers, like you already did on various places around the bed to get a feel, where it is too low. Let it cool and put painters tape (the very very thin tape, that should not burn) on areas, where the bed is too low. Print more calibration rectangles and check if you have enough. Repeat until you cannot see a difference.
It took me about 2h to level everything absolutely perfectly. This was 2 years ago and I didn't have to touch the tape below my bed ever since. It just works.
Alternative solutions involve mesh bed leveling and buying a new bed surface or even the surface below the bed. However, I found that to neither of them work reliably, whereas the simple tuning does what it's supposed to.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.
In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across from the dead middle of the bed vertically and horizontally, where all that area would be a little too far out.
I did anything I could, eventually what solved it for me was tightening all of the frame once again, making sure the x-axis gantry doesn't wobble, the hotend doesn't wobble and then realign the gantry nuts below the bed, to help with this alignment I actually tilted the whole printer 90° so gravity will help the wheels get the right alignment.
The issues such as you are describing were gone after complete overhaul tightening as mentioned above.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/07/26 | 337 | 1,216 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Prusa i3 3D printer and am using Slic3r for slicing.
I've noticed that my extruder is underextruding. I've correctly set the nozzle diameter and the filament diameter and I've already tried to increment the extrusion multiplier (which is currently set to 1.1). As Slic3r suggests this is a maximum value, I'm wondering if there is something else wrong.
Does anybody a have suggestions on which settings I can look at?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYACg.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like the nozzle is too far from the bed, try leveling the bed again - that should solve the problem.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It may also be, that your hotend temperature is too low and the extruder 'spins through', so that too little filament is extruded. In that case you would hear some clicking noise.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I have a Prusa i3 pro b, and was having a similar issues. Turns out the spring for the plastic extruder feeder can be too slack. I printed [these](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936289) at 2 mm and put it under the spring and it solved my issue.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/07/31 | 1,008 | 3,791 | <issue_start>username_0: I found this in Handbook of Compliant Mechanisms (2013), page 162, or at the start of "Chapter 11, Elements of Mechanisms," subsection 11.1.2 Revolute
I don't understand how it's supposed to go from 1 to 2 when b rotates around c.
The description reads:
>
> This element is a rotational flexural pivot constructed by three
> curved beams to achieve a large range of motion. Theoretically, this
> element will rotate without axial-drift motion, because of the
> symmetric arrangement about the axis.
>
>
> (1) Rigid body a is fixed. Rigid body b rotates about c-axis.
>
> (2) Deformed configuration
>
> (3) Photo of the device.
>
>
>
It's unclear which part of the beam is attached to what. I can understand how one curved beam could switch its curvature (in general, like they do in bi-stable latches), but I don't see how they could both at the end of of the rotation end up curved in a way that's opposite to how they started.
How could c2/c3 go from the configuration in 1 to the configuration in 2 ?
Or could they be two different iterations of the same idea ? I can see how (1) or (2) would resist rotation of c around b, and snap it back to its original position. The text claims (2) is the deformed configuration though. I can also see how (1) with just c1, c3, c5 would deform to (1) with c0, c2, c4 if (b) was turning anti clockwise.
Also, what would be an ideal material to print this kind of compliant mechanism ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9Vka.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: I would try and print it in PLA because it is quite flexible.
ABS is harder in my experience and breaks more easily.
If you are able to print PET, you should also try that for the same reasons.
There might also be better materials I've never heard of, also please leave a comment if I'm wrong with anything.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The picture looks as if there is a printed back surface to which the central part is attached. This can not be the case, since otherwise the curved members would not be able to flex. Everything inside the outer ring must be detached from the back shell.
Like all couplers, especially flexible couplers, there is a limit to the amount of torque the coupler can transmit. Within the elastic limits of the material this looks like a good design, and a good match for 3D printing. The forces are along the layers, not across the layers.
This looks like a good design for a rotary coupler. I'm resisting calling it a "shaft" coupler since neither side is equipped with any connection to a shaft. One could modify the design to have a larger central hub with a shaft hole (and set screw(s)). As it is, there is an implied method to hold the outer ring, and a fairly explicit three-pin adapter to drop into the open slots in the arms which connect to the center.
I would use ABS rather than PLA, although it depends on the stiffness you require and ability to sustein abuse. PLA is stiller than ABS, while ABS, within the elastic limits, is more compliant. I am not confident that either of these plastics would stand up to thousands of millions of flexures.
I would prefer to print this of TPU or Nylon. Both of these are tougher than ABS and PLA. They withstand greater flex with fewer problems with micro cracks and degradation. I have printed another shaft coupler of TPU, and it was both compliant and still.
It isn't possible to really nail down a material without knowing the application.
As to your question about one example being a transform of the other, I don't thing they are. The A and B drawings are similar in function, but are not stressed and unstressed versions of the same part. Either will work as a coupler.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/02 | 730 | 2,445 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm new to this game, and recently upgraded the hotend on my Ender 3 Pro to a *clone* of an E3D V6, as I'm keen to do nylon prints at some point. I noticed however that this one I got has a teflon liner which seems to negate the advantage of a metal hotend entirely.
I'm wondering what temperature it's safe to run this hot end up to?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Uth3.jpg "Teflon insert#2")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QazJ2.jpg "Teflon insert#1")<issue_comment>username_1: It depends how *deep* it goes. If the teflon goes into the hotend then yes, it will limit the temperature end.
But: the teflon may just be something that ends *somewhere* in the cold side and sticks out so there is something to put into the extruder or higher up into the connector.
I cam currently setting up a Slice Mosquito for a Bondtech DDX. The Mosquito is full metal, but there is a (actually printed nylon) adapter for the DDS. In this adapter you put a teflon/capricorn tube, that ALSO sticks out only around 5 mm. Here is the point though: it never goes into the even cold side and is only there so the connection to the extruder on top has a width limitation.
So, it really depends how *long* this tube is (and no-one here will know because a v6 *clone* may be different internally from the original). I would suggest pulling it out (it should move out easily) and then seeing how deep it goes. As long as it stays on the cold side before the heatbreak, it never gets in touch with anything that is hot.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There are many types of [heatbreak clones](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone/11012#11012). In cour case, your clone effectively turns your hotend into an e3d Lite6, not an all-metal e3d v6. To function properly, the PTFE liner needs to butt against the nozzle or you will quickly develop leak and clog issues.
This means, handle it like a Lite6, which has a max of 245 °C listed, but under usual operation should not exceed 230 °C.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Long story short, you can print Nylon with a Teflon tube. I've done it. P.S. The nylon absorbs water like nothing you've ever seen. Even after the part is printed, it absorbs water, and expands!
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/08/02 | 1,065 | 3,687 | <issue_start>username_0: Ender3 v2, SIENOC PETG which advises temperature of 230-250 °C on the box. I'm printing on top of cleaned blue tape, using a temperature of 230 °C for the nozzle and 80 °C for the bed.
I've had all sorts of trouble getting first layer to stick but finally managed it. However the thin end of this hook has now warped and the other end is too.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QznJK.jpg "Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)")
Looking at the image above, you can see it's much thinner at that end. Should I try a lower nozzle temperature? Or bed? Or both?
The fans are at 50 % (set in Cura), should I have left them on 100 %?
---
I have to mention that the tape has been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. I can print PLA no problem direct to the bed but am having so much trouble with PETG - rather than warping this could actually be adhesion problems.
I've tried a higher initial layer (0.3 mm vs 0.2 mm), 0.1 mm Z offset, gapped to 1 sheet of paper as per PLA, then 2 sheets - I've done that 50 mm in on each corner and then checked it in the middle of the bed too. Initial layer is at 10 mm/s and then to 40 mm/s
As you can see in the picture the brim looks rather flattened, but if I give more gap (e.g. 3 sheets) it doesn't even stick at all.
I have managed to print a benchy after maybe 6 attempts, but this was luck and had really poor adhesion, a gentle tap with my finger dislodged it. The actual print was fine.
Tempted to try another PETG but wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious - at the moment I can't even print the brim again because it won't stick.
I'm really confused because a lot of I read suggests PETG sticks really well but I've having the exact opposite experience.<issue_comment>username_1: It depends how *deep* it goes. If the teflon goes into the hotend then yes, it will limit the temperature end.
But: the teflon may just be something that ends *somewhere* in the cold side and sticks out so there is something to put into the extruder or higher up into the connector.
I cam currently setting up a Slice Mosquito for a Bondtech DDX. The Mosquito is full metal, but there is a (actually printed nylon) adapter for the DDS. In this adapter you put a teflon/capricorn tube, that ALSO sticks out only around 5 mm. Here is the point though: it never goes into the even cold side and is only there so the connection to the extruder on top has a width limitation.
So, it really depends how *long* this tube is (and no-one here will know because a v6 *clone* may be different internally from the original). I would suggest pulling it out (it should move out easily) and then seeing how deep it goes. As long as it stays on the cold side before the heatbreak, it never gets in touch with anything that is hot.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There are many types of [heatbreak clones](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone/11012#11012). In cour case, your clone effectively turns your hotend into an e3d Lite6, not an all-metal e3d v6. To function properly, the PTFE liner needs to butt against the nozzle or you will quickly develop leak and clog issues.
This means, handle it like a Lite6, which has a max of 245 °C listed, but under usual operation should not exceed 230 °C.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Long story short, you can print Nylon with a Teflon tube. I've done it. P.S. The nylon absorbs water like nothing you've ever seen. Even after the part is printed, it absorbs water, and expands!
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/08/03 | 884 | 3,322 | <issue_start>username_0: I am converting an old Makerbot Replicator 2 to Marlin Firmware and everything works. The printer heats up, auto bed levels, and starts the print. However, after a couple minutes (usually after the 1st or 2nd layer), the printer crashes and stops. It does not continue printing and I have to restart it again. It crashed for every single print, I have not had any successful prints yet.
Here is a video showing the issue:
The camera was started right when the print started. After about 1.5 minutes, the printer crashes, and the LCD screen freezes.
Here are photos of a couple of prints that crashed:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHzNi.jpg "Photos of sample prints")
I have all of my code here: [RosalieWessels](https://github.com/RosalieWessels) / [**Marlin\_MakerbotReplicator2**](https://github.com/RosalieWessels/Marlin_MakerbotReplicator2)
My models are sliced with Cura and printed in PLA.
I tried hotend temperatures of 200, 210, and 220 degrees C. My print speed is around 50 or 60 mm/s.
Here is a sample sliced file that was used:
<https://filebin.net/df33a3jjwgemz0m8><issue_comment>username_1: Few things to try,
**Check G-Code** - Verify that the slicer is not the problem, slice using some other program / make a new default profile and re-slice.
**3D File** - Also In parallel with the above point, I would get a standard test cube STL to start with. This will be a simple quick print to get a solid reference.
**Voltages** - Get a Multi-meter on the Regulated Voltage rails, 5V Rail, 12V rail / 24V rail. See if at the moment of crash a voltage rail collapse, the most likely one would be the microcontroller rail, but you may be able to see the problem somewhere else.
**Current** - If possible, measure the current draw of the printer either from the mains or after the AC/DC regulator. Its possible something is going horribly wrong and current limiting.
**Serial Port** - Possibly connect the printer to a PC via its serial port and open a com port. See if the printer spits out an error code at the time of crash?
**End Stops** - Double check that none of the End Stops are accidently being triggered (Although this should not crash the system, it might be part of the problem)
**Verify Sensor Readings** - Check all end stops, check the bed temperature readings, check the nozzle temperature reading. Maybe a sensor has failed and is causing the controller to crash out.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I see a couple likely culprits for a hardcrash like this
* problems with the power supply. If the power supply does not provide enough voltage an/or current to the board, this can lead to a lockup of the board.
* temperature issues of the board. If the board overheats, it could fail to execute properly, leading to abort. make sure that the board is not overheating.
* faulty firmware. recompile your firmware and reflash it.
* faulty board.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you compiled your own firmware using visual studio code, use platformio's inspector found on the platformio homepage to make sure there are no memory overrun issues. You must read the whole prompt because sometimes it will not explicitly state that there is an issue
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/08/03 | 1,181 | 3,930 | <issue_start>username_0: The cube is a 2 cm x 2 cm with infill at 30 % and layer height 0.2 mm, more details can be seen below.
I'm printing with PETG using an Ender 3 printer.
There seems to be a gap between the perimeter walls, I have already referred to other forums and specifically: " [How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10276/how-to-fix-wall-separation-in-3d-prints-gaps-in-between-wall-perimeters) ", but I still can't find a solution for it.
Most would suggest to tighten up the pulleys, I've tried that, but that didn't work. Others also suggested tweaking to a higher temperature, again I've tried from a range of 230-250 °C, but this also failed.
Infill and initial/top layers seems to be strong and all lines are bonded except for the perimeter walls.
More details regarding the problem:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjFY6m.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wJjGm.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2tJGm.jpg)
Here are my print settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOZBWm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNKEbm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/srVksm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Q6zNm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9nPsm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgFkvm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3e3zVm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNGD5m.png)<issue_comment>username_1: PETG filament is not entirely rigid and compresses slightly in the Ender 3's extruder gear and Bowden extruder setup. Tightening it will only make this effect greater. Being compressed at the point where mm of extruder advance is applied means less than the desired advance of at-nominal-diameter filament will take place. I find I need a flow of 104% to compensate for this.
When adjusting flow in Cura, make sure you get the main flow setting not the first-layer one (which is an additional factor on top of the main one and can be left at 100%), *and* that all the derived flow settings for each type of extrustion (walls, top/bottom, infill, etc.) all come out matching the value you set. When I first tried fixing this with flow, they didn't propagate right and I ended up testing changes that weren't actually doing anything.
With that said, you may have something else going on too. The underextrusion looks pretty severe, *including* in the top layers which you said looked okay. You should not see deep grooves between the lines like that. I suspect they're only bonded to the layer below, not to their neighbors. This could be a result of tightening the extruder pulley, or some other problem.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I agree with @username_1, looks like under extrusion you could try a flow rate test print like this [link](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3397997) to try and dial in the value.
But probably worth just trying a flow of 105% and see if it solves the problem. Another thing worth verifying is that your printer is feeding accurately. You can mark out 100mm from the feed hole, then manually command the printer to extrude 100mm, then measure the distance from the 100mm mark. This will tell you if you have a feed problem.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/08/04 | 486 | 1,949 | <issue_start>username_0: I am building an enclosure for an Ender 3 Pro printer, and am planning on the power supply and LCD unit being outside the enclosure. How important is it to move the printer controller (where the SD card is inserted) outside the enclosure?
Would leaving it in place affect its longevity?
Answers to the first round of comments/questions:
* I expect to be primarily printing in the 200C-270C range.
* I'm not worried about losing heat from opening the doors - I'll be putting the SD card in prior to initiating printing.
* I'm thinking the stepper motors are somewhat of a moot point, there's no way I could move them outside of the enclosure.
* My printer is all stock.<issue_comment>username_1: It depends on what kinds of prints you make, and especially what kind of materials you want to use.
Certain materials (ABS especially, but also PETG to some degree) will print *much better* if the entire build area, which usually includes the printer chassis and controls, is enclosed to protect from drafts and allow a much higher ambient temperature.
If you print often with these materials, and the control board is included in that enclosed area, you ***will*** significantly reduce the life of the electronic components, [especially the capacitors on the board](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague)1.
On the other hand, if you print mainly with PLA, which is not as susceptible to issues requiring an enclosure, and prints better with an ambient temperature closer to room temperature, you can put the electronic controls wherever you want.
---
1 See especially this excerpt from the section on "Premature Failure":
>
> Electrolytic capacitors that operate at a lower temperature can have a considerably longer lifespan.
>
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This guy placed the whole Ender in a 100C environment but he emphasises how important it is to leave the electronics cool:
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/08/05 | 572 | 2,410 | <issue_start>username_0: I am going to design and build a 3D printer. I want the highest quality and accuracy so nothing except that is important for me. Which cartesian design has the highest quality and accuracy? CoreXY, Prusa, or Gantry (Ultimaker)?
Also, is it better to have a nozzle that moves in just direction "X", directions "X and Y", or "X, Y and Z"?<issue_comment>username_1: The tradeoffs in these systems are all about quality achievable at particular speed and acceleration profiles. If you really don't care about speed at all and want maximum accuracy, you probably want some type of Cartesian setup with no belts, only rigid lead screws which you can take to as fine a pitch as you like, and you can make all the parts as rigid as you like because mass doesn't matter (since acceleration doesn't).
Note however that extrusion accuracy is the limiting factor to quality and dimensional accuracy in even a half-decent printer. Rather than trying to design something with "perfect" spatial kinematics for quality from the outset, I think you should look at existing printers, figure out what about them isn't meeting your quality needs, and start from there to improve. You should also figure out what your speed constraints will be, even if they're only minimal.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Just to clarify: Examples of kinematic systems would be Cartesian (which includes CoreXY), Delta, Scara, and Six-Axis. The quality of the system has less to do with the system and more to do with the implementation.
Furthermore, there are 2 main types of desktop/benchtop 3d printers that are commonly available: Fused Deposition Modelling (or fused filament fabrication depending on who you ask) and stereolithography; of which the latter, stereolithography, has better accuracy and quality.
In terms of FDM however, it can be easily argued that CoreXY cartesian printers offer the best quality and accuracy (both of which are subjective btw) than either delta or gantry designs (e.g. gantry would be the Prusa i3). The reason is that in order to get the CoreXY to work at all, the overall engineering and frame rigidity must be at a certain minimum. Once this minimum has been achieved, the quality of the prints typically meets or exceeds the quality/accuracy of even a well-tuned gantry printer; and you are going to see it in the cost of a CoreXY printer.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2020/08/05 | 639 | 2,639 | <issue_start>username_0: I know that CoreXY kinematics is very complex and hard to calculate for the firmware making it better to use a 32-bit board. For some reason, I can't use any 32-bit board. What problems will occur if I use an 8-bit board like Arduino Mega with a CoreXY 3D printer?
Everything that I wrote in this question about hard kinematic calculations was referenced from this video, [HyperCube 3D Printer 8-Bit Speed Wall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySqj3gPqfrs), by Tech2c (the designer and builder of hypercube). After watching the video I doubted using an 8-bit board.<issue_comment>username_1: The tradeoffs in these systems are all about quality achievable at particular speed and acceleration profiles. If you really don't care about speed at all and want maximum accuracy, you probably want some type of Cartesian setup with no belts, only rigid lead screws which you can take to as fine a pitch as you like, and you can make all the parts as rigid as you like because mass doesn't matter (since acceleration doesn't).
Note however that extrusion accuracy is the limiting factor to quality and dimensional accuracy in even a half-decent printer. Rather than trying to design something with "perfect" spatial kinematics for quality from the outset, I think you should look at existing printers, figure out what about them isn't meeting your quality needs, and start from there to improve. You should also figure out what your speed constraints will be, even if they're only minimal.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Just to clarify: Examples of kinematic systems would be Cartesian (which includes CoreXY), Delta, Scara, and Six-Axis. The quality of the system has less to do with the system and more to do with the implementation.
Furthermore, there are 2 main types of desktop/benchtop 3d printers that are commonly available: Fused Deposition Modelling (or fused filament fabrication depending on who you ask) and stereolithography; of which the latter, stereolithography, has better accuracy and quality.
In terms of FDM however, it can be easily argued that CoreXY cartesian printers offer the best quality and accuracy (both of which are subjective btw) than either delta or gantry designs (e.g. gantry would be the Prusa i3). The reason is that in order to get the CoreXY to work at all, the overall engineering and frame rigidity must be at a certain minimum. Once this minimum has been achieved, the quality of the prints typically meets or exceeds the quality/accuracy of even a well-tuned gantry printer; and you are going to see it in the cost of a CoreXY printer.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2020/08/06 | 1,847 | 5,698 | <issue_start>username_0: I am printing small mechanical pieces in ABS:
* 100 ºC bed temperature
* 70 ºC Room temperature
* 250 ºC nozzle temperature
* 0.4 mm nozzle, at 0.15 mm per layer.
* 100.8 % scale to compensate ABS dimensional innacuracy.
The first layer is printed correctly, but later, corners warp and first 10 mm get deformed (See images).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QsSPm.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsummm.jpg)
How do I solve this? Unfortunately, I cannot increase room temperature over 70 ºC
Here is a picture while printing, we can see that the edges get warped even far over the first layer. (Sorry, the picture quality is not so good):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWjCG.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: The up-curling of overhangs is frequently seen when printing PLA or PETG when the just deposited layer hasn't been cooled enough. The residual heat will allow the curling as the plastic has not been fully set (above the so called glass temperature) because of insufficient part cooling.
Knowing that ABS doesn't need much cooling (to improve the inter-layer bonding), you most probably will not require full power of the fan (depending on the cooling power of the fan). You do need a little cooling though, but not for the first (few) layer(s), so keep the fan off at the first layer. Be sure it is up to speed at the layer you require the cooling as the first few percentage of the fan is generally not enough to rotate the fan. E.g. my fans start spinning at about 20-25 %.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Results of the suggestions in comments and answers
--------------------------------------------------
Following are the results, coming from the great answers received on this page. I post them here in case it can helps further readers in achieving good results.
>
> Note: when two numbers are indicated, the first is for the first layer, and the second for the rest of the piece. (e.g. 250 ºC / 230 ºC)
>
>
>
>
> If you want to see the result, go now directly to the bottom of the answer :-)
>
>
>
>
> Note2: Pictures are taken from the **worse** side. In some cases, other sides are much better.
>
>
>
First try:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: 70 ºC
* Speed: 60 mm/s
* Fan: 0% / 50%
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kT6wtm.png)
Second try:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: 70 ºC
* **Speed: 20s / layer**
* Fan: 0% / 50%
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CHxA5m.png)
Third try:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 240 ºC
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: 70 ºC
* Speed: 20s / layer
* Fan: 0% / **100%**
* **95% flow**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oiixVm.png)
Forth try:
* Nozzle temperature: **245 ºC / 230 ºC**
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: **50 ºC**
* Speed: 20s / layer
* Fan: 0% / 100%
* 95% flow
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jaTlXm.png)
Fifth try (succeed):
* Nozzle temperature: **245 ºC / 225 ºC**
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC
* Chamber temperature: **40 ºC**
* Speed: 20s / layer
* **Fan: 0% / 200%** (I added an additional fan)
* 95% flow
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIQffm.png)
**My current settings:** (in case it helps)
At the end, I opted for the following setup, which seems to adapt better to all kind of shapes:
* Nozzle temperature: 250 ºC / 250 ºC *(slighty higher temperature help adhesion between layers and give better piece resistance)*
* Platform temperature: 100 ºC / 80 ºC *(80 ºC I had some piece deformation over 85 ºC, especially big pieces)*
* Chamber temperature: 50 ºC
* Speed: 40 mm/s, or even 30 mm/s *(Help adhesion and good precision)*
* Fan: 0% / 200% *(I added an additional fan, helps avoid deformation in corners, as described in the question)*
* Scale the piece 100.5% *(ABS shrink)*
* Minimum layer time: 20s *(For small pieces, this allows each layer to cool enough)*
* Build Plate Adhesion: Brim
* 100% flow
Conclusions:
------------
* **The solution is to cool each layer as much as possible and as soon as possible, BUT avoiding warping.**
* **Use a very strong adhesion to avoid the warping, allowing a better cooling of each layer.** In my case I started to use a cheap and strong hairspray (which works surprisingly well).
* Using chamber temperature over 50 ºC make it more difficult to cool each layer quickly, thus, it is not recommended.
* Using ventilation is a must.
* Different configuration for first layer and consecutive layers helps.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: We usually stick the masking tape on the printer's bottom plate, so that the model is formed on the side of the masking tape which without glue, which looks good.
When there is no masking tape, we sometimes manually adjust the height of the bottom plate to make the nozzle appress to the bottom plate when printing the first layer. At this time, the melted material can hardly flow out. The strong pressure will adhere the material tightly to the bottom plate, which can effectively solve this problem. However, this may damage the extruder motor.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/08/06 | 504 | 1,905 | <issue_start>username_0: I need to make chocolate busts.
Is it better to make silicon reverse of the bust and cast the bust or directly print it using chocolate printer (I prefer cost and process speed over quality)? I don't have chocolate printer so if this method will be better I will need to use some 3D printing service.
I need to make quite a large amount of the busts.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> I prefer ... process speed
>
>
>
Printing is unlikely to win that battle. You might print a plastic mold once you can use for casts, but if you do make sure you use a liner of some kind. 3d-printed plastics are not considered food-safe.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In my experience, direct printing of chocolate is tedious because:
1. It has to be around 88 C to melt; and
2. It doesn't solidify very quickly at normal room temperature.
Unless you can print in a chilled environment (freezer is better than refrigerator), you will likely wind up printing a chocolate puddle. Even then, you have to heat not only the reservoir but also the entire nozzle (or it may solidify in the nozzle).
Also, some chocolates have issues if they freeze or become overheated, so it's a very tight tolerance with the temperatures.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: For your application, you should 3d print a positive model, then make a silicone mould negative of that model. Then use the silicone mould to make the final chocolate. Clean the silicone thoroughly before initial use. Fill gaps in the 3d printed model with a light epoxy resin. Use mould release and ensure you wash and sterilize that silicon mould before using it with chocolate.
An actual chocolate printer is not easy to come by, as a normal 3d printer converted to use chocolate is not able to be sterilized for food use.
The video in the link illustrates one person's attempt at this process.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/08/07 | 1,093 | 3,809 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to model the threads of a "Poland Spring" 500 ml bottle so I can 3D print an adapter for it. But I can't find information about it. I emailed them but they said they didn't have the information.
How can I find this information out?
The bottle seems to use non standard threads. It uses 3 threads 120 degrees apart that does not go all the way around. Any information on how to get this information?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEnwV.png)<issue_comment>username_1: You can use a program known as [OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org/) with the [threads library](https://dkprojects.net/openscad-threads/) to assist your objective.
The important aspects of a thread are the major diameter (outside diameter at the thread surface), the length of the bolt/nut and for your project, the start count. The noted library has a parameter called n-starts, which covers your triple start requirement.
It may require some trial and error processing, but you have a good foundation with OpenSCAD library.
Even if the bottle is manufactured with Imperial reference (unlikely), you'd probably have an easier time with metric threads. I just checked a Dasani water bottle, which measured at 27.27 mm major diameter, 10 mm length, thread pitch 2 mm. The thread pitch in metric is the distance between peaks (or valleys) from one to the next. This particular bottle has an interrupted thread, but that should not be a factor for creating an adapter.
This Dasani bottle does not have a multi-start thread. It's not a complete thread, but it is single start. Considering that a water bottle top has minimal length, you may also have an interrupted rather than a multi-start thread.
The code for the measured thread in OpenSCAD is relatively simple.
>
> use ;
>
> thread\_dia = 27.27;
>
> thread\_pitch = 2;
>
> thread\_length = 10;
>
> metric\_thread(thread\_dia, thread\_pitch, thread\_length, n\_starts = 3);
>
>
>
The above code would generate a 3-start thread in the form of a bolt. Using a difference() code would provide for the inverse required for your proposed adapter.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bvliP.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4vsS.png)
top image is single start, bottom is triple start.
Top view comparison:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0oGnP.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It's really unlikely that a bottle is using nonstandard threads; the engineering and tooling cost for doing so would not make sense. Most plastic drink bottles use PCO 1881 or PCO 1810 threads. If not, it should be one of a number of other less widely used standards.
The industry term for drink bottle thread is "neck finish". Searching on that, or on one of the standard names like PCO 1881, will find you a lot of information. You can then try to find a match for your threads. Note that the breaks 120 degrees apart do not affect the thread design, and may or may not be part of the neck finish standard, so you can ignore them.
There are existing OpenSCAD libraries for some of these, including
* [threadlib](https://github.com/adrianschlatter/threadlib#list-of-supported-threads)
* [IoP-satellite](https://github.com/MisterHW/IoP-satellite)
And some related articles on Hackaday about their development and use:
* [Learn The Secrets Of Matching Bottle Cap Threads To One Another](https://hackaday.com/2020/07/12/learn-the-secrets-of-matching-bottle-cap-threads-to-one-another/)
* [Generating Nice Threads in OpenSCAD](https://hackaday.io/page/5252-generating-nice-threads-in-openscad)
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/08/08 | 657 | 2,786 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a way of reducing the amount and strength of Model support when slicing in Cura?
Cleaning a model with large amounts of support can consume large amounts of time.<issue_comment>username_1: You could reduce the `Support Density`:
>
> A higher value results in better overhangs, but the supports are harder to remove.
>
>
>
Furthermore read [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7991/) on question: "[Difficult to remove support material](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7989/difficult-to-remove-support-material/)".
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There's a lot that can be done to improve the removability of supports, and much of this is not widely known/published.
One big wrong default in Cura that contributes to problems with support is *Limit Support Retractions*, which defaults to on. This causes heavy stringing between components of the support structure that should be separate, and poor layer adhesion between layers of the support *and between layers of whatever is printed right after the support* (!!), making support more brittle and difficult to remove in clean chunks. This setting should be turned off.
I find *Enable Support Brim* is also useful. Its nominal purpose is to make supports adhere to the bed better, but it also gives them more of a solid bottom so that the structure is rigid and admits snapping off as a chunk.
A nonzero *Support Wall Line Count* (it's zero by default for zigzag and most support patterns, but one by default for support tree and others) can make chunks of support easier to remove by making them more rigid.
*Connect Support Lines* (also called `zig_zaggify_infill`) helps with rigidity too, and with reducing time wasted on retractions once you turn off *Limit Support Retractions*.
Aside from these less-well-known tunables, the obvious ones are *Support Z Distance* and *Support X/Y Distance*, especially Z. You can increase this slightly from the default to make supports easier to remove, but it will hurt the quality of the surface just above the support (making it less flat, more stringy like a bridge). And the biggest one of all is *Support Angle*. Generally increase it as high as you can go, after doing some test prints to determine the maximum overhang angle you can print without support. This will save material and make it easier to remove what supports remain.
Finally, aside from support options, you want to make sure you don't have underlying print problems causing oozing, bulging, or other dimensional-accuracy/extrusion-accuracy issues. This is because any material that is printed or expands into the wrong place will, if it's adjacent to support material, bond to the support material and make it hard to remove.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/09 | 762 | 3,163 | <issue_start>username_0: Does anyone know of a hot end that is sealed? What I meaning is that the hot end has a rubber seal where the filament enters to keep the top airtight (in order to eliminate oozing).
I am looking to build a dual extruder printer but, I do not want any oozing from the hot end which is not in use. I could build a system to retract and 'close' the nozzle but it would be much more elegant if it would work to just seal the top of the hot end. Thus achieving the same effect as when you pull up water with a straw by covering the top with your finger.<issue_comment>username_1: You could reduce the `Support Density`:
>
> A higher value results in better overhangs, but the supports are harder to remove.
>
>
>
Furthermore read [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7991/) on question: "[Difficult to remove support material](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7989/difficult-to-remove-support-material/)".
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There's a lot that can be done to improve the removability of supports, and much of this is not widely known/published.
One big wrong default in Cura that contributes to problems with support is *Limit Support Retractions*, which defaults to on. This causes heavy stringing between components of the support structure that should be separate, and poor layer adhesion between layers of the support *and between layers of whatever is printed right after the support* (!!), making support more brittle and difficult to remove in clean chunks. This setting should be turned off.
I find *Enable Support Brim* is also useful. Its nominal purpose is to make supports adhere to the bed better, but it also gives them more of a solid bottom so that the structure is rigid and admits snapping off as a chunk.
A nonzero *Support Wall Line Count* (it's zero by default for zigzag and most support patterns, but one by default for support tree and others) can make chunks of support easier to remove by making them more rigid.
*Connect Support Lines* (also called `zig_zaggify_infill`) helps with rigidity too, and with reducing time wasted on retractions once you turn off *Limit Support Retractions*.
Aside from these less-well-known tunables, the obvious ones are *Support Z Distance* and *Support X/Y Distance*, especially Z. You can increase this slightly from the default to make supports easier to remove, but it will hurt the quality of the surface just above the support (making it less flat, more stringy like a bridge). And the biggest one of all is *Support Angle*. Generally increase it as high as you can go, after doing some test prints to determine the maximum overhang angle you can print without support. This will save material and make it easier to remove what supports remain.
Finally, aside from support options, you want to make sure you don't have underlying print problems causing oozing, bulging, or other dimensional-accuracy/extrusion-accuracy issues. This is because any material that is printed or expands into the wrong place will, if it's adjacent to support material, bond to the support material and make it hard to remove.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/15 | 514 | 1,987 | <issue_start>username_0: first time here.
I recently bought an Anycubic Mega S and I'm venturing in the 3D world. Lots to learn for sure. I have printed a few items so far and all went pretty well.
My question is about something that caught my attention while browsing on Thingiverse. I was looking for an organizer for a board game that I have and every option I found there shows the piece in a vertical position rather than horizontal which seems like the natural position of the piece.
I would like to know why most of this types of pieces are set to be printed in a vertical position rather than horizontal.
Here is the original piece [Betrayal at Baldur's Gate Organizer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949421) by [<NAME>](https://www.thingiverse.com/playfutbol2/designs). As you can see in the image below the piece is naturally horizontal but the actual files to print (blue ones) are all vertical.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vik4M.png)
PS.: I didn't really know which tags to use so I just added 3D, feel free to suggest any other I will happily edit it. :)<issue_comment>username_1: Thingieverse does respect the orientation an item was designed in, just like most slicers will. Designers will often choose any one of the three planes (XY, YZ, ZX) as their first by preference, then work out the other parts in relation to the first. This does often not take into account the actual print orientation it should be printed in.
In the case of this box, you'd have to turn all items around the Y-axis (the front-left to back-right one) by 90°, first to the *front*, then the *back* then to the *front* again, getting almost 0 overhangs.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: When I design parts in CAD software I pick a starting plane and go from there. And that starting plane doesn't correspond to how the part is designed to be printed. That usually comes later.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/17 | 532 | 1,991 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been wrestling with a filament grinding problem for a few weeks now and I'm stuck.
The problem manifests itself as starting a print alright then extrusion stops while the printer keeps moving. When I pull the filament out I see indents from the gear then a depression where it ground down the filament.
Filament used is 1.75 mm Spool3D PETG on a Hictop printer, which is a clone of a Prusa i3. I don't know the exact part number though. The extruder is direct drive, and the 28 mm heatbreak is connected to a heatsink block rather than something with fins. Nozzle is standard 0.4 mm.
My print settings are quite conservative. Speed is 20 mm/s, retraction is 20 mm/s (though it never grinds on retraction), temperature is 255 °C, which is 10 °C higher than what works in my other printers. No print cooling.
At first I thought there was a clog, but I can push the filament though by hand quite well. I also use cleaning filament frequently and it never pulls out any debris. Heatbreak and nozzle have been changed to fresh items.
Does anybody have any other ideas of things I can try, or should I just get a new extruder?<issue_comment>username_1: Thingieverse does respect the orientation an item was designed in, just like most slicers will. Designers will often choose any one of the three planes (XY, YZ, ZX) as their first by preference, then work out the other parts in relation to the first. This does often not take into account the actual print orientation it should be printed in.
In the case of this box, you'd have to turn all items around the Y-axis (the front-left to back-right one) by 90°, first to the *front*, then the *back* then to the *front* again, getting almost 0 overhangs.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: When I design parts in CAD software I pick a starting plane and go from there. And that starting plane doesn't correspond to how the part is designed to be printed. That usually comes later.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/17 | 2,607 | 9,912 | <issue_start>username_0: Lately I've been having problems with overhangs not adhering when curvature is outward (stringing across instead) that look like what you'd see at insufficient temperature, and that go away with temperature jacked up a bit (PLA at 220 °C, which is a bit extreme) or fan disabled. Is it possible that the hotend thermistor has drifted and is no longer accurate, making the actual temperature lower than nominal? Or do these things fail hard when they fail?<issue_comment>username_1: It is indeed possible that the thermistor is broken (yet not sure). I am aware of two types of issues with thermistors:
1. The contact (soldering) is broken, usually due to the temperature extreme variations. The thermistor will indicate the maximum temperature in case of PTC or minimum temperature in case of NTC. In some cases, due to vibrations or other factor, the contact will eventually touch, showing improbable jumps of temperature.
2. The thermistor is broken internally. In that case it will just indicate a wrong temperature. I can't say if constant temperature or constant delta.
For how to troubleshot the component, however, EE.SE seems more convenient.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't think it is the thermistor degrading. To answer your question directly, all my thermistors have failed because the tiny wire has broken off, and generally the fail is “hard” not soft.
It is more likely you’re experiencing absorbed humidity in the filament from it being out on the spool too long. this makes you have to increase the temperature.
I’m sure if you dehydrated the spool in the oven for a bit you’d get better prints and a slightly lower print temp.
Additionally, keep in mind that a lot of PLA on the market nowadays runs at higher temps because it’s laced with something (“PLA+”?). Check the item description for indicators of a new or improved formula.
You could try ordering a thermistor of the same make and testing the temperature of it. You can get a half dozen for about \$10. The Marlin firmware your printer probably uses should have a section for thermistors and what kind you’re using. It’s probably type “1” which is the cheap kind.
You can try using one of those distant head thermometers to measure the temperature wirelessly at the hot end. These are probably over \$100 right now because of COVID. I think that is how a well-resourced person would handle this (i'm not one personally).
Maybe start with the oven and while it’s cooking, research the thermistors and what goes in to replacing one. It’s a good learning experience because one day your hotend may be irreparably clogged and you’ll want to know some of the steps to disassemble it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Most thermosensors are functionally nothing different but a temperature dependant resistor. As such, our boards usually use $U=RI$ to get to the resistance, and then compare that to a temperature table. In effect, they put in a regulated potential difference, and measure how much current flows. Plugging this into $U/I=R$ gives the Resistance, which then gives the temperature from the table. In fact, since U is assumed fixed in most firmware, the lookup can also be done directly via the current.
In theory, a resistor's resistance follows $R=R\_0(1+\alpha \Delta T)$. Now, Alpha is the proportionality factor of our resistor, delta-T the difference to the tested temperature, at which point the resistor gives R0. Note that Alpha might be also temperature dependant, which is why the firmware looks up the table, not calculates it fresh. So far so good, right? Well... one more thing. Under the standard conditions, we can also use $R\_0=\rho \frac l A$ to learn about the resistor, the resistance is the specific resistance times length divided by crossection area.
Now, from just the many factors that play into the thing, we have several points where we might gain error over time:
* The Thermosensor's resistor itself might break down, for example by operating it too hot. In this case, the factor $\rho$ as well as the effective crossection area get altered. Such a resistor will show a resistance under no heating outside of the known good value. To do this, you'd need to operate your thermosensor above its rating, usually that's in the area of 250 to 290 °C. As an example, the standard e3D Thermosensors are good till [about 285 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge), but they also have ones good for [up to 500 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/v6-pt100-upgrade-kit), while the welded thermocouples are only safe for [-50 to 250 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/type-k-thermocouple-welded-tip) due to it's PTFE sleeve. Removing said sleeve allows to use it for a larger temperature area, but that is not listed.
* The wiring might be damaged. If the wires to the Thermosensor are kinked and effectively thinner, they might add extra resistance. This would be detectable by measuring the leads to the resistor - they should in best case have close to $0\ \Omega$ resistance. As the wiring is the most stressed part usually, and the wire bundles are often packed well enough to not show up too much even if some strands are broken, such should show up only in the very last stages before a total failure.
* The board might not measure correctly, for two reasons: either it might look at the wrong reference table as you might have swapped to a different type of thermosensor in a repair, or it might use the wrong (too little/too much) potential difference U to obtain it's measurement I and thus look in the wrong row of the table. For this, there is a fix available in the firmware by [swapping to the correct temperature](https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Marlin+Configuration) table or [calibrating your own](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:103668) one for your off-standard voltage. The latter is a highly involved process and needs you to measure against a known temperature repeatedly.
I am not affiliated with e3D; they are merely one of the best-documented stores for replacement parts I know about, which is why I consulted their catalog.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Adding my 2 cents...
In practice thermistors hard fail. They do not "drift" fast enough for an application to notice. What's most likely happening (assuming that the problem is the temp) is that the reference voltage that is being used to determine the resistance of the thermistor could be faulty. As a simple test, you should get a basic thermometer to measure the temperature of the room. Then check it against the printer when it is sitting idle. If the 2 temps differ by more than 1 degree, then something is wrong. Check if the bed and nozzle thermistors are reading the same value (again to within 1 degree). If they are not, then swap the leads and see if if you get the same problem (with the printer idle of course).
If you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the thermistor, and then look up what the resistance should be at a certain temp (there are tables for this on the internet).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Yes, thermistors can drift in value as well as outright failing (usually open).
In my experience this is not uncommon in thermistors operated above 100 degrees C. The drift is typically downward in resistance so the controlled temperature will be less than the desired setpoint, which is exactly what you are observing.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: NTC Thermistors can fail progressively due to moisture, cracking, changes in the material structure. Don't forget that you are operating them at neat the maximum temperature, not at room temperature.
In [this article](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0026271401000270) about NTC resistors for current limiting (subjected to current pulses, but tested also for high temperature stress) they say:
>
> Process of degradation of NTC thermistors has complex character and
> is, in considerable degree, determined by the total number of applied
> current impulses or thermal cycles. Initial rise of resistance is
> caused probably by oxidation process or modification of ionic
> distribution.
>
>
>
Luckily, after an initial burn-in, they are stable for quite some time. You may just need to recalibrate. Or use a PT1000 resistor which should not have similar issues, and which works without any additional electronics.
See also [here](https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/download/531116/19643b7ea798d7c4670141a88cd993f9/%20pdf-general-technical-information.pdf) for a statement by a manufacturer that NTC ages:
>
> At room temperature the polycrystalline material shows solid-state
> reactions which lead to an irreversible change in the characteristics
> (usually resistance increase, change of B value etc). Physical reasons
> for this may be thermal stress causing a change in concentration of
> lattice imperfections, oxygen exchange with the environment (with
> unprotected, non-glass-encapsulated thermistors) or diffusion in the
> contact areas of metallized surface contacts. At low temperatures
> these reactions slow down, but at high temperatures they accelerate
> and finally decline with time. To enhance long-term stability, our NTC
> thermistors can be subjected to an aging process directly after
> manufacture.
>
>
>
See this graph from [this page](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/227091056_Electrical_properties_of_NTC_thermistors_made_of_manganite_ceramics_of_general_spinel_structure_Mn3_-_x_-_x%27MxNx%27O4_0_x_x%27_1_M_and_N_being_Ni_Co_or_Cu_Aging_phenomenon_study/figures?lo=1) for drift as function of time and temperature:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/slNfv.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/18 | 2,578 | 9,823 | <issue_start>username_0: After a resin print completes, what is the expected process to finish the print? Is some cleaning expected? I also some manufacturers sell UV chambers to cure the print surface, is this required?
I purchased a low-cost printer from China that is quite high-quality hardware, but sadly short on documentation. Insight on the proper post-print process is appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: It is indeed possible that the thermistor is broken (yet not sure). I am aware of two types of issues with thermistors:
1. The contact (soldering) is broken, usually due to the temperature extreme variations. The thermistor will indicate the maximum temperature in case of PTC or minimum temperature in case of NTC. In some cases, due to vibrations or other factor, the contact will eventually touch, showing improbable jumps of temperature.
2. The thermistor is broken internally. In that case it will just indicate a wrong temperature. I can't say if constant temperature or constant delta.
For how to troubleshot the component, however, EE.SE seems more convenient.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't think it is the thermistor degrading. To answer your question directly, all my thermistors have failed because the tiny wire has broken off, and generally the fail is “hard” not soft.
It is more likely you’re experiencing absorbed humidity in the filament from it being out on the spool too long. this makes you have to increase the temperature.
I’m sure if you dehydrated the spool in the oven for a bit you’d get better prints and a slightly lower print temp.
Additionally, keep in mind that a lot of PLA on the market nowadays runs at higher temps because it’s laced with something (“PLA+”?). Check the item description for indicators of a new or improved formula.
You could try ordering a thermistor of the same make and testing the temperature of it. You can get a half dozen for about \$10. The Marlin firmware your printer probably uses should have a section for thermistors and what kind you’re using. It’s probably type “1” which is the cheap kind.
You can try using one of those distant head thermometers to measure the temperature wirelessly at the hot end. These are probably over \$100 right now because of COVID. I think that is how a well-resourced person would handle this (i'm not one personally).
Maybe start with the oven and while it’s cooking, research the thermistors and what goes in to replacing one. It’s a good learning experience because one day your hotend may be irreparably clogged and you’ll want to know some of the steps to disassemble it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Most thermosensors are functionally nothing different but a temperature dependant resistor. As such, our boards usually use $U=RI$ to get to the resistance, and then compare that to a temperature table. In effect, they put in a regulated potential difference, and measure how much current flows. Plugging this into $U/I=R$ gives the Resistance, which then gives the temperature from the table. In fact, since U is assumed fixed in most firmware, the lookup can also be done directly via the current.
In theory, a resistor's resistance follows $R=R\_0(1+\alpha \Delta T)$. Now, Alpha is the proportionality factor of our resistor, delta-T the difference to the tested temperature, at which point the resistor gives R0. Note that Alpha might be also temperature dependant, which is why the firmware looks up the table, not calculates it fresh. So far so good, right? Well... one more thing. Under the standard conditions, we can also use $R\_0=\rho \frac l A$ to learn about the resistor, the resistance is the specific resistance times length divided by crossection area.
Now, from just the many factors that play into the thing, we have several points where we might gain error over time:
* The Thermosensor's resistor itself might break down, for example by operating it too hot. In this case, the factor $\rho$ as well as the effective crossection area get altered. Such a resistor will show a resistance under no heating outside of the known good value. To do this, you'd need to operate your thermosensor above its rating, usually that's in the area of 250 to 290 °C. As an example, the standard e3D Thermosensors are good till [about 285 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge), but they also have ones good for [up to 500 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/v6-pt100-upgrade-kit), while the welded thermocouples are only safe for [-50 to 250 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/type-k-thermocouple-welded-tip) due to it's PTFE sleeve. Removing said sleeve allows to use it for a larger temperature area, but that is not listed.
* The wiring might be damaged. If the wires to the Thermosensor are kinked and effectively thinner, they might add extra resistance. This would be detectable by measuring the leads to the resistor - they should in best case have close to $0\ \Omega$ resistance. As the wiring is the most stressed part usually, and the wire bundles are often packed well enough to not show up too much even if some strands are broken, such should show up only in the very last stages before a total failure.
* The board might not measure correctly, for two reasons: either it might look at the wrong reference table as you might have swapped to a different type of thermosensor in a repair, or it might use the wrong (too little/too much) potential difference U to obtain it's measurement I and thus look in the wrong row of the table. For this, there is a fix available in the firmware by [swapping to the correct temperature](https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Marlin+Configuration) table or [calibrating your own](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:103668) one for your off-standard voltage. The latter is a highly involved process and needs you to measure against a known temperature repeatedly.
I am not affiliated with e3D; they are merely one of the best-documented stores for replacement parts I know about, which is why I consulted their catalog.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Adding my 2 cents...
In practice thermistors hard fail. They do not "drift" fast enough for an application to notice. What's most likely happening (assuming that the problem is the temp) is that the reference voltage that is being used to determine the resistance of the thermistor could be faulty. As a simple test, you should get a basic thermometer to measure the temperature of the room. Then check it against the printer when it is sitting idle. If the 2 temps differ by more than 1 degree, then something is wrong. Check if the bed and nozzle thermistors are reading the same value (again to within 1 degree). If they are not, then swap the leads and see if if you get the same problem (with the printer idle of course).
If you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the thermistor, and then look up what the resistance should be at a certain temp (there are tables for this on the internet).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Yes, thermistors can drift in value as well as outright failing (usually open).
In my experience this is not uncommon in thermistors operated above 100 degrees C. The drift is typically downward in resistance so the controlled temperature will be less than the desired setpoint, which is exactly what you are observing.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: NTC Thermistors can fail progressively due to moisture, cracking, changes in the material structure. Don't forget that you are operating them at neat the maximum temperature, not at room temperature.
In [this article](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0026271401000270) about NTC resistors for current limiting (subjected to current pulses, but tested also for high temperature stress) they say:
>
> Process of degradation of NTC thermistors has complex character and
> is, in considerable degree, determined by the total number of applied
> current impulses or thermal cycles. Initial rise of resistance is
> caused probably by oxidation process or modification of ionic
> distribution.
>
>
>
Luckily, after an initial burn-in, they are stable for quite some time. You may just need to recalibrate. Or use a PT1000 resistor which should not have similar issues, and which works without any additional electronics.
See also [here](https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/download/531116/19643b7ea798d7c4670141a88cd993f9/%20pdf-general-technical-information.pdf) for a statement by a manufacturer that NTC ages:
>
> At room temperature the polycrystalline material shows solid-state
> reactions which lead to an irreversible change in the characteristics
> (usually resistance increase, change of B value etc). Physical reasons
> for this may be thermal stress causing a change in concentration of
> lattice imperfections, oxygen exchange with the environment (with
> unprotected, non-glass-encapsulated thermistors) or diffusion in the
> contact areas of metallized surface contacts. At low temperatures
> these reactions slow down, but at high temperatures they accelerate
> and finally decline with time. To enhance long-term stability, our NTC
> thermistors can be subjected to an aging process directly after
> manufacture.
>
>
>
See this graph from [this page](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/227091056_Electrical_properties_of_NTC_thermistors_made_of_manganite_ceramics_of_general_spinel_structure_Mn3_-_x_-_x%27MxNx%27O4_0_x_x%27_1_M_and_N_being_Ni_Co_or_Cu_Aging_phenomenon_study/figures?lo=1) for drift as function of time and temperature:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/slNfv.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/19 | 2,896 | 11,001 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm pretty new in the 3D printing world, and there are some doubts that have come my way and I've not been able to find anywhere.
Usually, I'm going to try to print pieces bigger than the bed of my Elegoo Mars Pro (which is 115 x 65 x 150 mm, so it's pretty small). Everywhere I try to look at this they are talking about Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, and I guess that material will make the answer to these questions to be different, that's why I'm asking here. **All of these questions are focused on SLA printers.**
Is there any kind of technique / slicer software to be able to print those pieces by parts?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've read about slicers, but there seem to be a bunch of them, and some of them work best with some printers than others, and have different features but I haven't seen any that helps in this matter.
Also, I've seen the typical plane cut, but this doesn't make it easy later on to "fit" pieces. I would need some kind of female - male joint. Is there any (free) slicer that helps in that, and makes those joints to be accurate and solid?
Thank you!
---
I removed the "shrink size" part in the question and published it [as a separate question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14283/curated-resin-size-shrink-and-methods-to-reduce-it). Also moved [to a different question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14284/sla-resin-post-processing-gluing-parts-together) "gluing separate pieces" part.\*<issue_comment>username_1: It is indeed possible that the thermistor is broken (yet not sure). I am aware of two types of issues with thermistors:
1. The contact (soldering) is broken, usually due to the temperature extreme variations. The thermistor will indicate the maximum temperature in case of PTC or minimum temperature in case of NTC. In some cases, due to vibrations or other factor, the contact will eventually touch, showing improbable jumps of temperature.
2. The thermistor is broken internally. In that case it will just indicate a wrong temperature. I can't say if constant temperature or constant delta.
For how to troubleshot the component, however, EE.SE seems more convenient.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't think it is the thermistor degrading. To answer your question directly, all my thermistors have failed because the tiny wire has broken off, and generally the fail is “hard” not soft.
It is more likely you’re experiencing absorbed humidity in the filament from it being out on the spool too long. this makes you have to increase the temperature.
I’m sure if you dehydrated the spool in the oven for a bit you’d get better prints and a slightly lower print temp.
Additionally, keep in mind that a lot of PLA on the market nowadays runs at higher temps because it’s laced with something (“PLA+”?). Check the item description for indicators of a new or improved formula.
You could try ordering a thermistor of the same make and testing the temperature of it. You can get a half dozen for about \$10. The Marlin firmware your printer probably uses should have a section for thermistors and what kind you’re using. It’s probably type “1” which is the cheap kind.
You can try using one of those distant head thermometers to measure the temperature wirelessly at the hot end. These are probably over \$100 right now because of COVID. I think that is how a well-resourced person would handle this (i'm not one personally).
Maybe start with the oven and while it’s cooking, research the thermistors and what goes in to replacing one. It’s a good learning experience because one day your hotend may be irreparably clogged and you’ll want to know some of the steps to disassemble it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Most thermosensors are functionally nothing different but a temperature dependant resistor. As such, our boards usually use $U=RI$ to get to the resistance, and then compare that to a temperature table. In effect, they put in a regulated potential difference, and measure how much current flows. Plugging this into $U/I=R$ gives the Resistance, which then gives the temperature from the table. In fact, since U is assumed fixed in most firmware, the lookup can also be done directly via the current.
In theory, a resistor's resistance follows $R=R\_0(1+\alpha \Delta T)$. Now, Alpha is the proportionality factor of our resistor, delta-T the difference to the tested temperature, at which point the resistor gives R0. Note that Alpha might be also temperature dependant, which is why the firmware looks up the table, not calculates it fresh. So far so good, right? Well... one more thing. Under the standard conditions, we can also use $R\_0=\rho \frac l A$ to learn about the resistor, the resistance is the specific resistance times length divided by crossection area.
Now, from just the many factors that play into the thing, we have several points where we might gain error over time:
* The Thermosensor's resistor itself might break down, for example by operating it too hot. In this case, the factor $\rho$ as well as the effective crossection area get altered. Such a resistor will show a resistance under no heating outside of the known good value. To do this, you'd need to operate your thermosensor above its rating, usually that's in the area of 250 to 290 °C. As an example, the standard e3D Thermosensors are good till [about 285 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/thermistor-cartridge), but they also have ones good for [up to 500 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/v6-pt100-upgrade-kit), while the welded thermocouples are only safe for [-50 to 250 °C](https://e3d-online.com/collections/printer-parts-electrical/products/type-k-thermocouple-welded-tip) due to it's PTFE sleeve. Removing said sleeve allows to use it for a larger temperature area, but that is not listed.
* The wiring might be damaged. If the wires to the Thermosensor are kinked and effectively thinner, they might add extra resistance. This would be detectable by measuring the leads to the resistor - they should in best case have close to $0\ \Omega$ resistance. As the wiring is the most stressed part usually, and the wire bundles are often packed well enough to not show up too much even if some strands are broken, such should show up only in the very last stages before a total failure.
* The board might not measure correctly, for two reasons: either it might look at the wrong reference table as you might have swapped to a different type of thermosensor in a repair, or it might use the wrong (too little/too much) potential difference U to obtain it's measurement I and thus look in the wrong row of the table. For this, there is a fix available in the firmware by [swapping to the correct temperature](https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Marlin+Configuration) table or [calibrating your own](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:103668) one for your off-standard voltage. The latter is a highly involved process and needs you to measure against a known temperature repeatedly.
I am not affiliated with e3D; they are merely one of the best-documented stores for replacement parts I know about, which is why I consulted their catalog.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Adding my 2 cents...
In practice thermistors hard fail. They do not "drift" fast enough for an application to notice. What's most likely happening (assuming that the problem is the temp) is that the reference voltage that is being used to determine the resistance of the thermistor could be faulty. As a simple test, you should get a basic thermometer to measure the temperature of the room. Then check it against the printer when it is sitting idle. If the 2 temps differ by more than 1 degree, then something is wrong. Check if the bed and nozzle thermistors are reading the same value (again to within 1 degree). If they are not, then swap the leads and see if if you get the same problem (with the printer idle of course).
If you have access to a multimeter, then measure the resistance of the thermistor, and then look up what the resistance should be at a certain temp (there are tables for this on the internet).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Yes, thermistors can drift in value as well as outright failing (usually open).
In my experience this is not uncommon in thermistors operated above 100 degrees C. The drift is typically downward in resistance so the controlled temperature will be less than the desired setpoint, which is exactly what you are observing.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: NTC Thermistors can fail progressively due to moisture, cracking, changes in the material structure. Don't forget that you are operating them at neat the maximum temperature, not at room temperature.
In [this article](https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0026271401000270) about NTC resistors for current limiting (subjected to current pulses, but tested also for high temperature stress) they say:
>
> Process of degradation of NTC thermistors has complex character and
> is, in considerable degree, determined by the total number of applied
> current impulses or thermal cycles. Initial rise of resistance is
> caused probably by oxidation process or modification of ionic
> distribution.
>
>
>
Luckily, after an initial burn-in, they are stable for quite some time. You may just need to recalibrate. Or use a PT1000 resistor which should not have similar issues, and which works without any additional electronics.
See also [here](https://www.tdk-electronics.tdk.com/download/531116/19643b7ea798d7c4670141a88cd993f9/%20pdf-general-technical-information.pdf) for a statement by a manufacturer that NTC ages:
>
> At room temperature the polycrystalline material shows solid-state
> reactions which lead to an irreversible change in the characteristics
> (usually resistance increase, change of B value etc). Physical reasons
> for this may be thermal stress causing a change in concentration of
> lattice imperfections, oxygen exchange with the environment (with
> unprotected, non-glass-encapsulated thermistors) or diffusion in the
> contact areas of metallized surface contacts. At low temperatures
> these reactions slow down, but at high temperatures they accelerate
> and finally decline with time. To enhance long-term stability, our NTC
> thermistors can be subjected to an aging process directly after
> manufacture.
>
>
>
See this graph from [this page](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/227091056_Electrical_properties_of_NTC_thermistors_made_of_manganite_ceramics_of_general_spinel_structure_Mn3_-_x_-_x%27MxNx%27O4_0_x_x%27_1_M_and_N_being_Ni_Co_or_Cu_Aging_phenomenon_study/figures?lo=1) for drift as function of time and temperature:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/slNfv.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/19 | 1,332 | 4,793 | <issue_start>username_0: I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3d printer, and I was wondering when printing large pieces that need to be printed in different steps: is there some kind of post-processing to make it more suitable for gluing them?
I know of joints and so on, but sometimes pieces are big but not thick enough to be able to put a joint somewhere, so I guess the only solution would be to glue them.
Should I use some kind of specific glue to get better results with resins? Is there any process (post-processing, reducing layer height when printing, leave the resin being curated more time...) to improve the sticking of the different parts? Or can we go with any kind of "strong multisurface glue" without any further post-processing steps, and the results should be the same in matters of quality?
Thank you!<issue_comment>username_1: You can definitely use glue - however you can also brush some of the liquid resin along the edges of the two pieces, push them together and cure them, this will fuse them together.
You don't need much, and you need to watch for drip out while curing (don't your fingers in it)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As I learned after [asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin](https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin), the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. So let's look, [akin to the PLA-gluing question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla), what we can do!
Step 0: Safety First!
---------------------
Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resins, cyanoacrylate) or have irritating or flamagle fumes (heated cyanoacrylate).
**Use proper protection** when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!
Preparations
------------
For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: very lightly sand it to increase the surface area, don't touch the prints with bare hands to prevent fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!
Glues
-----
As a result of the chemistry I would suggest the following glues:
* The resin itself! Carefully applying a thin layer of the printing resin onto the cured parts and then pressing the parts together before letting it cure again will get you a good bond that might not even be visible as you have exactly the same material. Note though, that you might be able to assemble the part between washing and curing for absolute minimal visibility of the gluing surface and maximum bonding. Also note, that for a non-transparent resin (fully opaque to 400 nm light) you'd better look for a different gluing system, as the bond will be much weaker if it can harden only at the edge.
* Cyanoacrylate, aka Superglue. This glue is pretty much a one-serves-all, though it might cloud your surface. Also, not all superglues are the same, and some might work better than others or store differently.
+ Together with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.
+ CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much, if breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!
* 2-phase epoxy or [polyurethane](http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants-overview/adhesive-technologies/chemically-curing/two-component-(2-c)/urethane-adhesives). Another *glues everything* category, that should work rather well. The epoxy bonds are harder, the polyurethane ones are a little more flexible, but both bond very well with cured resin. As resin prints don't really deform under heat, you might take even faster-curing types.
* 2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like [Green Stuff](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Green-Stuff) or [Miliputt](https://www.milliput.com/), which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like [Pattex Repair](http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/reparaturkleber/repair-express.html)sorry, no English site for this or [UHU Repair All Powerkitt](http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab&step=70) harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.
Other methods?
--------------
Unlike PLA, we can **not** use thermic methods to add inserts, friction-weld or weld/solder two parts together as **Resin prints are generally not thermoplastic.**
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/08/22 | 1,285 | 4,469 | <issue_start>username_0: I was surprised to learn that, AFAICT, neither Protolabs, Xometry, or Shapeways\* can supply 3D printed parts from acrylic. Is anyone aware of a commercial source of 3D printed parts made from acrylic [polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA)]?
\*Shapeways does 3D print their "Fine Detail Plastic" which is an acrylic. However, during the printing process, the material is UV cured so, AFAIK, it is no longer a thermoplastic (as PMMA is). I need the thermoplastic property for my application.<issue_comment>username_1: You can definitely use glue - however you can also brush some of the liquid resin along the edges of the two pieces, push them together and cure them, this will fuse them together.
You don't need much, and you need to watch for drip out while curing (don't your fingers in it)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As I learned after [asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin](https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin), the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. So let's look, [akin to the PLA-gluing question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla), what we can do!
Step 0: Safety First!
---------------------
Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resins, cyanoacrylate) or have irritating or flamagle fumes (heated cyanoacrylate).
**Use proper protection** when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!
Preparations
------------
For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: very lightly sand it to increase the surface area, don't touch the prints with bare hands to prevent fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!
Glues
-----
As a result of the chemistry I would suggest the following glues:
* The resin itself! Carefully applying a thin layer of the printing resin onto the cured parts and then pressing the parts together before letting it cure again will get you a good bond that might not even be visible as you have exactly the same material. Note though, that you might be able to assemble the part between washing and curing for absolute minimal visibility of the gluing surface and maximum bonding. Also note, that for a non-transparent resin (fully opaque to 400 nm light) you'd better look for a different gluing system, as the bond will be much weaker if it can harden only at the edge.
* Cyanoacrylate, aka Superglue. This glue is pretty much a one-serves-all, though it might cloud your surface. Also, not all superglues are the same, and some might work better than others or store differently.
+ Together with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.
+ CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much, if breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!
* 2-phase epoxy or [polyurethane](http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants-overview/adhesive-technologies/chemically-curing/two-component-(2-c)/urethane-adhesives). Another *glues everything* category, that should work rather well. The epoxy bonds are harder, the polyurethane ones are a little more flexible, but both bond very well with cured resin. As resin prints don't really deform under heat, you might take even faster-curing types.
* 2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like [Green Stuff](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Green-Stuff) or [Miliputt](https://www.milliput.com/), which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like [Pattex Repair](http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/reparaturkleber/repair-express.html)sorry, no English site for this or [UHU Repair All Powerkitt](http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab&step=70) harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.
Other methods?
--------------
Unlike PLA, we can **not** use thermic methods to add inserts, friction-weld or weld/solder two parts together as **Resin prints are generally not thermoplastic.**
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/08/23 | 1,199 | 4,205 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for a filament that is strong, doesn't crack and doesn't break easily and is impact resistant. I'm currently using PLA and it's strong, but, I'm looking for something that doesn't snap or break when dropped.<issue_comment>username_1: You can definitely use glue - however you can also brush some of the liquid resin along the edges of the two pieces, push them together and cure them, this will fuse them together.
You don't need much, and you need to watch for drip out while curing (don't your fingers in it)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As I learned after [asking about the chemistry of a 3D printing Resin](https://chemistry.stackexchange.com/questions/138945/polymerisation-of-a-uv-curing-resin), the material uses radical polymerisation to get a well connected, branched copolymer. It is comparable to resin cast material but more brittle. So let's look, [akin to the PLA-gluing question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6723/what-glues-for-pla), what we can do!
Step 0: Safety First!
---------------------
Some of these methods are working with chemicals that can irritate the skin (resins, cyanoacrylate) or have irritating or flamagle fumes (heated cyanoacrylate).
**Use proper protection** when working with these! Eye protection and respiratory protection, as well as gloves, are to be used when necessary. Read the manual of the products you are working with!
Preparations
------------
For most glues, it is advisable to prepare the surface: very lightly sand it to increase the surface area, don't touch the prints with bare hands to prevent fingerprints etc. Follow the manual!
Glues
-----
As a result of the chemistry I would suggest the following glues:
* The resin itself! Carefully applying a thin layer of the printing resin onto the cured parts and then pressing the parts together before letting it cure again will get you a good bond that might not even be visible as you have exactly the same material. Note though, that you might be able to assemble the part between washing and curing for absolute minimal visibility of the gluing surface and maximum bonding. Also note, that for a non-transparent resin (fully opaque to 400 nm light) you'd better look for a different gluing system, as the bond will be much weaker if it can harden only at the edge.
* Cyanoacrylate, aka Superglue. This glue is pretty much a one-serves-all, though it might cloud your surface. Also, not all superglues are the same, and some might work better than others or store differently.
+ Together with talcum powder, CA glue can fill gaps easily.
+ CA is not stable under heating and when heated too much, if breaks apart into a rather noxious fume!
* 2-phase epoxy or [polyurethane](http://www.adhesives.org/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants-overview/adhesive-technologies/chemically-curing/two-component-(2-c)/urethane-adhesives). Another *glues everything* category, that should work rather well. The epoxy bonds are harder, the polyurethane ones are a little more flexible, but both bond very well with cured resin. As resin prints don't really deform under heat, you might take even faster-curing types.
* 2-phase Putty - in a similar vein come 2-phase putties like [Green Stuff](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-FI/Green-Stuff) or [Miliputt](https://www.milliput.com/), which harden after mixing. Their heat generation isn't too big and they allow to fill gaps easily. My favorite stuff though is not the expensive modeling putty but the stuff from the home depot: stuff like [Pattex Repair](http://www.pattex.de/do-it-yourself-mit-pattex-klebstoffe-produkte-new/pattex-klebstoffe/reparaturkleber/repair-express.html)sorry, no English site for this or [UHU Repair All Powerkitt](http://www.uhu.com/en/products/epoxy-adhesives-2-component/detail/uhu-repair-all-powerkitt-1.html?cHash=e0f929a3ec974e591e89c5e1987a30ab&step=70) harden within an hour, are surprisingly cheap and get a smooth surface.
Other methods?
--------------
Unlike PLA, we can **not** use thermic methods to add inserts, friction-weld or weld/solder two parts together as **Resin prints are generally not thermoplastic.**
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/08/25 | 375 | 1,500 | <issue_start>username_0: In all the bigger prints I print on my Ender 5 with PETG I have problems with warping and raft detachment during printing. I have a glass bed and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 standard printing settings for PETG (Recently I had some success using 245 °C nozzle temperature and 80 °C build plate).
Any ideas how to reduce those problems?<issue_comment>username_1: This sounds like a bed leveling issue. As reported by others, I get much less warping with PETG than with ABS or even PLA, and deal with too much adhesion with PETG rather than too little. With a Reprap x400, I printed a faceplate for the extruder to hold a electronic drop indicator. This gives me much higher precision leveling. Of course, I remove the drop indicator after leveling.
If leveling isn't the issue, then you may be printing too fast. The recommendations I've seen are to print PETG at 50 mm/s or less. I print a a lower speed than that.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Every print is somewhat affected by chamber temperature. On small prints, or prints with lower-temperature materials, the improvement is minor.
However, large prints with higher-temperature materials (like PETG) really benefit from a heated chamber. This helps by keeping the entire build close to the glass transition temperature until it's all done, and then letting it all cool together, more uniformly. Uniform cooling reduces the stresses of having different layers cool at different times and rates.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/28 | 923 | 3,403 | <issue_start>username_0: I am currently trying to print a gear with the possibility to connect it to the shaft of a DC motor. The following picture best describes what the shaft of the motor looks like by showing the hole printed in the gear:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNHn5.png)
So far this works well for a short amount of time, however since the gear is connected to another gear that is from time to time exerting quite some resistance already after a few revolutions the shaft starts to wear out the material that is holding it and it turns without powering the gear, i.e. the printed part is not strong enough to withstand the torque of the motor.
I am wondering what the best way forward would be here. I see multiple options:
* Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any
* Switch to a different material, I am currently using PLA, but I could also go for ABS or PETG if any of them would provide advantages. For PLA vs ABS I found some conflicting information which one is "harder"
* Play with the parameters of the print. At the moment I am only using 3 wall layers, I wonder if increasing the number of wall layers would improve rigidity.
Are there other ideas? What could you recommend me to improve this connection?<issue_comment>username_1: A good option would be to use a (set-)screw to press against the flat of the motor shaft, similar to how pulleys are mounted on stepper motors.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any
>
>
>
Use a shaft/flange coupler to be fastened to your shaft and to your printed part.
---
Without knowing the length of the shaft, you could connect a flange/coupler to design this into your gear. This is a good solution if you have to transmit larger torques. See e.g. [this pulley](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3296969) that incorporates that concept.
Shaft flange couplers can be connected to your printed part and to the flat part of the shaft.
Metal flange couplers are available in many sizes:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TPne9.jpg)
A recess in the printed part houses the flange:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pka5O.jpg)
When assembled you can mount the pulley/gear onto the shaft, provided you have enough length on the shaft.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PNt6V.jpg)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: If you're thinking of changing materials, you're looking at the wrong parameters. PLA has a higher hardness than either PETG or ABS, but hardness isn't what you want.
The problem you're experiencing is [creep](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)), where a material flows in response to pressure. Of the common printing plastics, PLA is by far the most susceptible to creep. Either ABS or PETG will be better in this regard, though unless you need ABS's strength, I'd recommend using PETG because it's easier to get dimensionally-correct prints.
That said, the contact area shown in your drawing is rather small. You'd be much better off using a metal flange to spread the contact out over a larger area.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/08/29 | 640 | 2,503 | <issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to use a standard color inkjet cartridge to color filament for full color 3D printing?
It seems like a natural next step to me, but I haven't seen much of anything on this. (Just a few ancient experiments on reprap wiki.)
I've learned that some inkjet printers have the heads built into the cartridge whereas others it's part of the printer. I think the former would be more appropriate.
Unfortunately I haven't seen anything on actually how to drive the cartridges. I'm guessing the mfgr's treat this as a trade secret (?) Still, there's got to be some overseas reverse-engineer... something... on this, right?
Anybody have resources/notes they'd like to share?<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think it makes a lot of sense - you don't need that kind of resolution, and getting a sufficient amount of ink that way to coat the filament would be hard. If you're going to be switching colors rapidly, you'd need a long purge between colors anyway. I also doubt the type of ink is suitable for sticking to filament materials.
If you really want an automated filament coloring system, I would do it with Sharpies and actuators to move individual ones on/off of the filament as it passes through. Coloring PLA with Sharpies prior to printing is a known-working technique, and there are even models available on Thingiverse for holders to keep them in place while the filament runs through. Designing the actuators to switch individual ones on/off, and the firmware controls for them, would be the natural next step.
Here are some examples I did with manual coloring of natural translucent PLA (from left to right: uncolored, silver Sharpie, and red Sharpie):
I didn't color a long enough segment of filament or properly purge for any of them, which is why the coloring is inconsistent/incomplete. But the technique definitely works.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: AS an FYI, this is becoming available commercially:
<https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product-level/PROFESSIONAL/color-series>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is a thing since I think 2-3 years. There's such a printer from XYZ printing. It's not cheap but worth it. <https://www.xyzprinting.com/en-US/product/da-vinci-color>
The other thing thats available right now is a new print technology named Multy Jet Fusion, where drops of resin being colored and droped to a 3D Print:
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/08/29 | 804 | 3,048 | <issue_start>username_0: I am still very much a novice and learning so here is the situation:
1. Filament was not extruding from nozzle. Checked the filament feeder (worked fine, filament was being squeezed through) and tried to push filament through hot nozzle to see if anything came out. Nothing did.
2. Did a cold pull, got a little bit of gunk out. Second cold pull didn't work out like the first one, and the glob of PLA that I fed into the nozzle remained stuck there.
3. I heated and removed the nozzle properly. I am going to soak it in acetone to get rid of the gunk inside. However, when I tried to install my other nozzle, it would take in the threads, and I see now that a little bit of the plastic from the last cold pull melted and trickled down.
What can I do to clean this out and install the nozzle? It is on an Ender 3 Pro.<issue_comment>username_1: I fixed this by using a q-tip to wipe out the threads!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have encountered this many times. This is how I solved it:
Sadly you have to disassemble the entire hotend. Remove the nozzle, remove the heatbreak and heatsink leaving the heater block in place, it does not need to be cleaned (unless I am mistaken). If there are any plastic pieces in those parts, remove them as well.
Now for the cleaning. Use hot air gun to heat the nozzle/heatbreak/heatsink hot enough so the filament starts to melt. Then you can use a thin screwdriver (or metal wire) to push the stuck filament out.
Alternatively, you can use blow torch (or gas soldering iron with the soldering tip removed) to melt and burn away the stuck plastic. However, when the plastic burns it transforms into a solid dirt which you have to manually remove. But it does not stick as well as the original filament.
I advise against using q-tips because they are made out of plastic which can stick to the surface as well. Instead, use a piece of old cotton cloth (old sock or t-shirt will do) to wipe the surface or threads after heating the part.
When doing so, use needle nose pliers to hold the part in one hand, with the other hand use hot air gun or blow torch to head it up. Then remove the source of heat and with the same hand use screw driver or piece of cloth to clean the part to your liking.
It is ugly and messy and you will most likely burn yourself several times. But it solves the problem quite reliably, unlike cold-pulls and other methods (at least in my experience).
Bathing the parts in acetone will most likely do nothing (unless the stuck filament is ABS) because most filaments in use are resistant against dissolving in acetone. If you need to remove filament from anywhere, use heat not chemicals. It is easier and works almost 100% time.
Good luck.
Note: The solution above for heatbreaks and heatsinks concerns only full metal hotends. Hotends with PTFE lining (such as on Ender 3 Pro - I do not own one, cannot confirm) need to wory about filament being stuck in the nozzle and/or in the PTFE tube, not in the heatbreak and/or heatsink.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/02 | 1,498 | 5,549 | <issue_start>username_0: I am very new to 3D printing. I am looking to purchase the Ender 3 V2 but before I do I would appreciate some advice on what I should purchase as the upgrades/addons for it. I'm not sure as to what I would need for the V2 since most websites are for the original Ender 3 so I don't know if the V2 already has that upgrade/addons or not when compared to the original. I would rather get all the upgrades/addons and the Ender 3 V2 at the same to save on shipping and all.
Pretty much the only upgrade/addons I have constantly seen is the auto bed level.
So if anyone can help out a first time 3D printer noob then that would be great!<issue_comment>username_1: IMHO, it's probably better to get the printer as-is first. This way you can get familiar with the printer and 3D printing in general before you get overwhelmed with all the extra introduced variables from your upgrades.
The new model already has loads of features that were considered upgrades on the older model and you can already get very nice results.
Upgrading your printer is a part of the 3D printing hobby, and you'll probably never be done with it :)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I have also been looking at getting into 3D printing and purchasing the Ender-3 V2.
In my research, the biggest differences between the original and V2 are the following:
* Tempered carborundum glass bed
* HD color screen instead of the old LCD character display
* Upgraded, 32-bit, self-developed, “silent” motherboard
* Capability to resume a print after a power outage
* XY-axis tensioner
* Manual filament feeding
* Toolbox embedded in the base of the printer
For more info, you can see more at all3dp and Creality's sites.
Next, there are several YouTube vids on upgrades/add-ons that you can do:
* [Firmware upgrade](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxfJelrckjM)
* [Dual Gear Extruder](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5gbFe7tjZQ)
* [Bed Springs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Ku8vZD9_g)
* [Another Bed Glass upgrade](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hov9lfBqXIw)
* [Octoprint](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OP2c-GQFu4)
There are several add-ons you can print yourself once you get your printer (some are not specific to the Ender 3 V2). Of course, you will have to decide which of these you are looking to add. Here are just a few:
* [First 24 Upgrades on my Ender 3 Pro](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kG_YKeJDaX8&t=447s)
* [Ender 3 Pro Upgrades](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy1wiP6dPjg)
* [Ender 3 Upgrades](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrLvz7OGAe4)
I would suggest, as others have, get the printer first and take it for a "test drive" first. Once you have seen its capabilities and if, again IF, anything needs to be fixed/upgraded/updated, then do what your budget allows. And by all means, do extensive research, ask questions on forums and here, and most of all have fun!
(Sorry, I don't have enough reputation to create more links.)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The first things I purchased for my V2 within the first week of having it were the magnetic flexible print bed as the prints were a pain in the butt to remove from the glass, and the aluminum extruder upgrade. I didn't do the dual gear drive because honestly I didn't pay attention at the time. however, the aluminum set is more positive in feel when feeding compared to the plastic that comes stock. I just felt like I'd break the arm if I tried harder than I should whereas having the aluminum arm feels better to me. Beyond that, maybe the BLTouch leveling sensor so you can set everything right more easily than using a piece of paper, but that's really all I can suggest for now. I've been using mine quite a bit lately and have enjoyed it as is. I realize this post is over a couple months old, but I just saw it and thought I'd contribute if you haven't already made your purchase(s).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I have an Ender 3 v2 and I haven't upgraded anything except updating the firmware. The first thing I suggest is updating the firmware and changing the hotend to an all-metal one. This will allow you to print in higher temperatures and adding a BLTouch for automatic bed leveling will make your life a bit easier.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Agree with the approach of using the V2 as is. Review some of the YouTube videos on initial setup and calibration. Identify the type of printing you'll doing and identify where it's coming up short of expectations. That will be the driver of what upgrades you'll want to start with.
Upgrades I've done to date:
BLTouch
Bed Springs (should have gone with spacers with the BLTouch)
Borosilicate glass print bed (OEM tempered glass bed was cupped in the middle)
Bowden tube (Lower friction)
X-axis belt (original shredded)
All fans for added reliability
Filament guide
Between the calibration and the above updates, I'm consistently printing dimensionally accurate parts. But your situation may vary as quality and tolerances in economy parts varies. Highly recommend the V2 though as the out of the box prints were far better than draft quality.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: As per my information, you don't need to upgrade your 3D printer but some of the following steps keep in mind to have your Ender 3 print better:
1. Level the bed.
2. Set the nozzle height.
3. Try different Build Plates for different effects.
4. Keep it on the sweet spot for your bed temperature.
5. Printer adjustment and maintenance are kept on priority.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/02 | 1,477 | 5,349 | <issue_start>username_0: I just bought a new RAMPS 1.6 shield to replace my old RAMPS 1.4 shield. The problem is that it's just not working, the motors don't move, heatbed/nozzle don't get heated. It was all working with the RAMPS 1.4 shield.
I checked the RAMPS 1.6 and there's no bridging in the solder joints.
The DRV8255 is drawing current also but the motor doesn't move.
I am using Repetier Firmware. I tried Marlin (default) and even it's not working.<issue_comment>username_1: IMHO, it's probably better to get the printer as-is first. This way you can get familiar with the printer and 3D printing in general before you get overwhelmed with all the extra introduced variables from your upgrades.
The new model already has loads of features that were considered upgrades on the older model and you can already get very nice results.
Upgrading your printer is a part of the 3D printing hobby, and you'll probably never be done with it :)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I have also been looking at getting into 3D printing and purchasing the Ender-3 V2.
In my research, the biggest differences between the original and V2 are the following:
* Tempered carborundum glass bed
* HD color screen instead of the old LCD character display
* Upgraded, 32-bit, self-developed, “silent” motherboard
* Capability to resume a print after a power outage
* XY-axis tensioner
* Manual filament feeding
* Toolbox embedded in the base of the printer
For more info, you can see more at all3dp and Creality's sites.
Next, there are several YouTube vids on upgrades/add-ons that you can do:
* [Firmware upgrade](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxfJelrckjM)
* [Dual Gear Extruder](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5gbFe7tjZQ)
* [Bed Springs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Ku8vZD9_g)
* [Another Bed Glass upgrade](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hov9lfBqXIw)
* [Octoprint](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OP2c-GQFu4)
There are several add-ons you can print yourself once you get your printer (some are not specific to the Ender 3 V2). Of course, you will have to decide which of these you are looking to add. Here are just a few:
* [First 24 Upgrades on my Ender 3 Pro](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kG_YKeJDaX8&t=447s)
* [Ender 3 Pro Upgrades](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy1wiP6dPjg)
* [Ender 3 Upgrades](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrLvz7OGAe4)
I would suggest, as others have, get the printer first and take it for a "test drive" first. Once you have seen its capabilities and if, again IF, anything needs to be fixed/upgraded/updated, then do what your budget allows. And by all means, do extensive research, ask questions on forums and here, and most of all have fun!
(Sorry, I don't have enough reputation to create more links.)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The first things I purchased for my V2 within the first week of having it were the magnetic flexible print bed as the prints were a pain in the butt to remove from the glass, and the aluminum extruder upgrade. I didn't do the dual gear drive because honestly I didn't pay attention at the time. however, the aluminum set is more positive in feel when feeding compared to the plastic that comes stock. I just felt like I'd break the arm if I tried harder than I should whereas having the aluminum arm feels better to me. Beyond that, maybe the BLTouch leveling sensor so you can set everything right more easily than using a piece of paper, but that's really all I can suggest for now. I've been using mine quite a bit lately and have enjoyed it as is. I realize this post is over a couple months old, but I just saw it and thought I'd contribute if you haven't already made your purchase(s).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I have an Ender 3 v2 and I haven't upgraded anything except updating the firmware. The first thing I suggest is updating the firmware and changing the hotend to an all-metal one. This will allow you to print in higher temperatures and adding a BLTouch for automatic bed leveling will make your life a bit easier.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Agree with the approach of using the V2 as is. Review some of the YouTube videos on initial setup and calibration. Identify the type of printing you'll doing and identify where it's coming up short of expectations. That will be the driver of what upgrades you'll want to start with.
Upgrades I've done to date:
BLTouch
Bed Springs (should have gone with spacers with the BLTouch)
Borosilicate glass print bed (OEM tempered glass bed was cupped in the middle)
Bowden tube (Lower friction)
X-axis belt (original shredded)
All fans for added reliability
Filament guide
Between the calibration and the above updates, I'm consistently printing dimensionally accurate parts. But your situation may vary as quality and tolerances in economy parts varies. Highly recommend the V2 though as the out of the box prints were far better than draft quality.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: As per my information, you don't need to upgrade your 3D printer but some of the following steps keep in mind to have your Ender 3 print better:
1. Level the bed.
2. Set the nozzle height.
3. Try different Build Plates for different effects.
4. Keep it on the sweet spot for your bed temperature.
5. Printer adjustment and maintenance are kept on priority.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/04 | 325 | 1,321 | <issue_start>username_0: If I need to 3D print a hollow box that can not have any light permeating into the box, what would be the best course of action? Should I 3D print the hollow box as a whole or print out the 6 sides individually and put them together at the end? And if I do the second option, what would be the best way to put the pieces together (design/connect grooves or use glue)?
I am very new to 3D printing so any feedback would be very much appreciated!<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Print it as a whole object
2. Use 20% infill.
3. Profit!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: That depends very much on what your goal is with the box. If it needs to be hollow and you don't need any access to the inside (and also prefer it to be printed in one piece) than the answer provided by username_1 would probably be the best.
Alternatively, if you need access to the inside of the box you would probably be best off printing the box in two pieces. A box and a lid. This way you can print the box without support and also save on material that would otherwise be used as infill.
The amount of light coming into your box also depends on the translucency of your material and brightness of the light source. To find the required wall thickness would be a matter of testing with the desired material.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/04 | 1,396 | 4,086 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a [direct drive kit](https://printermods.com/products/direct-drive-mod-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10), primarily so I can print soft materials like TPU. I bought a spool of [Overture TPU](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07VBKDM74) to try it out.
I'm getting really bad stringing on every print, to the point where it's pretty much unusable. This is my first time printing with TPU, so I'm at a loss for what to do.
**Direct Drive mod** -
After modding the printer I did a few prints with PLA, and it works great with very little stringing. So I assume I assembled the mod correctly and that's not the issue.
**Material** -
Reviews of the Overture TPU on Amazon mostly say it has low stringing and are generally positive, so I'm assuming it's not just bad filament.
**Temperature** - The consensus in the Amazon reviews seems to be that 230°C is the sweet spot. I did a temperature tower from 205 °C to 230 °C by 5 °C, and the print quality and stringing was pretty much uniform throughout.
**Retraction** - I tried with retraction off, then with 1 mm, 2 mm, and 6.5 mm, in various combinations with temperature and speed. Results varied in details, but all were pretty bad.
**Speed** - I tried slowing down to 15 mm/s (from Cura's default of 50). Results got even worse.
Following are photos of a stringing test with various combinations of settings.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GF47t.jpg)
PLA for reference - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBOOk.jpg)
TPU - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgTIt.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SygEx.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLrgw.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVlGv.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 6.5 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwuMV.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.12 mm - No retraction
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUOSK.jpg)
TPU - 240 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - No retraction
Is there something else I should try to reduce stringing? Is it possible that I just got a bad spool of TPU? Or is it more likely something's wrong with my printer?<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Print it as a whole object
2. Use 20% infill.
3. Profit!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: That depends very much on what your goal is with the box. If it needs to be hollow and you don't need any access to the inside (and also prefer it to be printed in one piece) than the answer provided by username_1 would probably be the best.
Alternatively, if you need access to the inside of the box you would probably be best off printing the box in two pieces. A box and a lid. This way you can print the box without support and also save on material that would otherwise be used as infill.
The amount of light coming into your box also depends on the translucency of your material and brightness of the light source. To find the required wall thickness would be a matter of testing with the desired material.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/06 | 399 | 1,498 | <issue_start>username_0: I already tried a lot settings in Cura and try to search for a solution but without success. Maybe someone got this issue and solved it.
I want to prevent Cura from printing such gaps at the wings to make it in one run. With ironing one run would (hopefully) bring better results. See the animation for what I mean.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C91H.gif)
Why want to do this? I hope to prevent thes ironing issues shown in the following pic.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq5vX.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Print it as a whole object
2. Use 20% infill.
3. Profit!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: That depends very much on what your goal is with the box. If it needs to be hollow and you don't need any access to the inside (and also prefer it to be printed in one piece) than the answer provided by username_1 would probably be the best.
Alternatively, if you need access to the inside of the box you would probably be best off printing the box in two pieces. A box and a lid. This way you can print the box without support and also save on material that would otherwise be used as infill.
The amount of light coming into your box also depends on the translucency of your material and brightness of the light source. To find the required wall thickness would be a matter of testing with the desired material.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/07 | 769 | 2,974 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got a direct drive extruder printer, that I have equipped with a Bowden-tube to give it a nice and defined filament path from my spool and to protect it from moisture when it exits my drybox. I've noticed that this 1 m Bowden tube adds quite a bit of friction to the system. I am keenly aware of it as feeding filament form the drybox into the tube by hand is quite a chore already, especially with high friction materials like PETG. Also I notice that I can sustain only lower volumetric flow without skipping or underextrusion after adding the tube.
So I figured, why not have a motor on both sides of the bowden tube? A big and heavy one at the entrance, providing a baseline pressure on the filament. And a comparatively light one on the other end, adding that fine control you want for your retraction, rather than trying to implement that via a 1 m wet noodle full of static friction.
Seems like it would give you the best of both worlds. Not quite as light as a full Bowden system, but you could have all the control of a direct drive system, with much less of the weight/flow rate tradeoff.
Anyone aware of this being done before? Or any good arguments as to why it is a stupid idea? Seems like a fairly straightforward mod; in the simplest implementation, just add an additional extruder of the same spec on the other side of your Bowden tube, and split the control signal to be the same amongst both motors.<issue_comment>username_1: A Bowden tube is by design fairly small diameter to match the filament within, constraining the forces applied by the remote extruder mechanism. As you've noted, friction is a consideration.
For your application, you would not have to have such a tightly constrained diameter. You could use a Bowden tube for 2.85 mm filament, if your direct drive extruder is made for 1.75 mm filament.
You'd have the environmental control of the smaller tube, the path control and all of the other benefits, but none (or little) of the friction.
Additionally, you would not have the complexity of managing retraction or synchronizing feed that a dual motor system presents.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I have a similar setup with one of my printers (that is using 1.75 mm filament), this answer is therefore my own experience with guiding tubes from spool to extruder (my previous was a direct drive extruder, the latter uses a Bowden setup, but both with a tube leading up to the extruder).
Initially I used smaller diameter tubing (inner diameter of 2 and 3 mm, that is commonly used for Bowden setups for respectively for 1.75 mm and 2.85 mm filament), but when I changed to 4 mm inner diameter (and 6 mm outer diameter) all friction was gone. The benefit of using 4 mm inner diameter is that it fits over the 2/4 mm ID/OD tubes, and as such I slide the larger inner diameter tube over a piece of 4 mm outer diameter, forme, this also simplifies feeding the filament to the extruder.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/13 | 815 | 2,950 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Monoprice MP10 with magnetic flexible paper coated build plate and I have just tried printing bed level test which is, of necessity, very thin on the build plate.
Watching the item print, I saw that the bed level was obviously way way off at the back left corner and down the left side. I was printing with PLA. There was no point in letting the print continue so I stopped it, let the build plate cool down and tried to remove the print.
The bottom line and right hand side came off cleanly but the top left corner and all down the left side stuck firmly. As it was so thin a layer there is no chance of getting something underneath an edge without damaging the paper surface. I tried acetone but this had no effect other than turning the surface white and thin cracks appearing in the paper surface. Wiped down with alcohol which toned down the white but was no help in getting the thin layer of PLA off.
I tried reheating surface, no joy. Does anyone have a foolproof way of getting this off as soap and water don't work either?<issue_comment>username_1: You could try freezing your bed with cooling spray around the print and then wait some seconds and try peel it off.
I had the problem once on my PEI sheet and it did help. I used this spray: [Spray](https://www.distrelec.ch/de/kuehlmittel-spray-prefix-prefix-200-suffix-suffix-ml-kontakt-chemie-freeze-75-200-ml-ml/p/30025851?channel=b2c&price_gs=17.51202&source=googleps&ext_cid=shgooaqchde-na&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyuGr5Ojy6wIVkuntCh2nawCXEAQYASABEgKQ5vD_BwE)
But make sure you don't break any electric parts on your printer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: In my experience with the Creality magnetic textured build surface, it's easier to remove a thin print while the surface is still pretty warm -- probably between 35 °C and 40 °C -- as opposed to fully cooled to room temperature.
If the print is *very* thin, however (as when the nozzle is much too close to the build surface) printing over it may be the only sensible option. In fact, if the print residue is too thin to get a scraper under, it likely won't show in another print with the same color/type filament, so you can just ignore it unless you're changing color or material.
BTW, don't use acetone. For *anything*, unless nothing else will do the job. Too flammable, too toxic, and it dissolves stuff you don't want to dissolve (but won't do anything notable to PLA, which is why you can't do acetone vapor smoothing with PLA).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You could print something on top of it, like a giant square covering the whole affected area. You should use some slightly higher temperatures than usual to make it adhere good (e.g. 75 °C bed 210 °C hotend), make sure that you print several layers.
There are 2 options removing the new print when there is an elevated temperature in the bed left after printing, or removing after a complete cool down.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/13 | 1,092 | 3,898 | <issue_start>username_0: Im using Prusa Slicer 2.1 for my FlyingBear Ghost 4.
I just changed my 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm but it seems to jam in the heater probably due to too much filament trying to get out by the nozzle. Where is the setting to reduce the filement speed and how much I should reduce it?
Here are my settings:
[Config.txt](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j_RsFQI1EtfSzptggYjGehpdlJlX7rsK/view?usp=sharing)<issue_comment>username_1: 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are half the diameter, but the maximum flow is not just half: Flow scales with the area. The 0.4 mm nozzle has an area 4 times as the 0.2 mm one:
$\frac{A\_1} {A\_2}=\frac {0.2^2}{0.1^2}=4$
You need to reduce `print speed` or the `volumetric flow` by this factor or make sure your printer can handle the increased flow by reducing the viscosity of the melt - for example by increasing the print temperature.
Also note, that a 0.2 mm nozzle can't be operated with layer heights above 0.15 mm.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Here's where you change the speed in Prusa:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FYF4a.png)
As username_1 said, you're likely trying to push too much material through too fast.
Steps you can take:
1. Increase print temp
2. Decrease print speed
3. Slice for thinner layers
4. Don't forget to adjust your nozzle diameter and/or extrusion width(s) as well.
I'd personally start with increasing my print temp 10 degrees and cutting my print speed in half, as well as making sure I had 0.2 mm nozzle and extrusion widths.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: The discussion about slowing the print speed is important, but in my experience it is not at the root of the problem, and slowing down printing may make it worse.
If ny "heater" you mean the complete hot-end, then I suspect you are jamming in the cooler part of the hot-end. This cooler part is separated from the heater itself by the heat break, which is often a thin-walled metal tube.
The hot side of the heat break is heated by the heater. The cooler-end, the cool side of the heat break, is cooled by two things:
1. cold filament being moved through it and
2. airflow from the fan over the heat sink fins.
It is heated by:
1. Thermal conduction through the thin metal tube
2. Convection airflow from the hot-end vertically and over the cooler-end
3. Hot filament being pulled through the heat break during retraction.
When you are printing with a smaller cross-section of extruded filament, the slicer program should adjust the flow rate and speeds based on the lesser volume of plastic extruded for a given pressure. Unfortunately, this is less plastic, so the filament cools the cooler end of the heat break less than it would if the feed rate were higher. As a result, the temperature of the cooler end goes up. If there is insufficient airflow to keep the cooler side below the softening point of filament, the filament softens and jams inside the cooler end.
Of course, if your jam actually is in the hot end, this discussion is not relevant.
But, I have found with my Prusa i3m3 that I have had problems with jamming in the cooler end, especially when I printed filament with a higher melting temperature, ABS in this case. I reduced the area of the airflow so that no air could pass through other than by passing over the heat sink fins, and the ABS printed correctly.
All of 3D printing is a balance of one factor against another. It is hard to lose, though, by increasing the cooler-end temperature. All will seem well until you print something with a lower flow, or a higher retraction rate, or you try using a higher temperature for the same filament. Then the jam can unexpectedly occur, or, perhaps worse, it can be an intermittent jam, or there can be a lot to sticktion, and printing becomes prone to gaps, or occasional under extrusion.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/15 | 1,127 | 4,154 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using "Pretty PETG" along with PrusaSlicer's consecutive print mode.
What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print, the printer hits `MINTEMP BED Fixed`. I'm not sure if it's immediate because I let the prints run overnight but I assume the bed cools down and then the error is hit.
I'm just starting to learn G-code and my initial thought was there's an errant bed temperature instruction but the only `M140 S0` instructions I see are in the `end_gcode` and near the bottom of the file. Maybe there a `goto` in G-code which may be running after `M140 S0` which then causes the `MINTEMP BED` issue? Perhaps there's something else going on?<issue_comment>username_1: 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are half the diameter, but the maximum flow is not just half: Flow scales with the area. The 0.4 mm nozzle has an area 4 times as the 0.2 mm one:
$\frac{A\_1} {A\_2}=\frac {0.2^2}{0.1^2}=4$
You need to reduce `print speed` or the `volumetric flow` by this factor or make sure your printer can handle the increased flow by reducing the viscosity of the melt - for example by increasing the print temperature.
Also note, that a 0.2 mm nozzle can't be operated with layer heights above 0.15 mm.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Here's where you change the speed in Prusa:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FYF4a.png)
As username_1 said, you're likely trying to push too much material through too fast.
Steps you can take:
1. Increase print temp
2. Decrease print speed
3. Slice for thinner layers
4. Don't forget to adjust your nozzle diameter and/or extrusion width(s) as well.
I'd personally start with increasing my print temp 10 degrees and cutting my print speed in half, as well as making sure I had 0.2 mm nozzle and extrusion widths.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: The discussion about slowing the print speed is important, but in my experience it is not at the root of the problem, and slowing down printing may make it worse.
If ny "heater" you mean the complete hot-end, then I suspect you are jamming in the cooler part of the hot-end. This cooler part is separated from the heater itself by the heat break, which is often a thin-walled metal tube.
The hot side of the heat break is heated by the heater. The cooler-end, the cool side of the heat break, is cooled by two things:
1. cold filament being moved through it and
2. airflow from the fan over the heat sink fins.
It is heated by:
1. Thermal conduction through the thin metal tube
2. Convection airflow from the hot-end vertically and over the cooler-end
3. Hot filament being pulled through the heat break during retraction.
When you are printing with a smaller cross-section of extruded filament, the slicer program should adjust the flow rate and speeds based on the lesser volume of plastic extruded for a given pressure. Unfortunately, this is less plastic, so the filament cools the cooler end of the heat break less than it would if the feed rate were higher. As a result, the temperature of the cooler end goes up. If there is insufficient airflow to keep the cooler side below the softening point of filament, the filament softens and jams inside the cooler end.
Of course, if your jam actually is in the hot end, this discussion is not relevant.
But, I have found with my Prusa i3m3 that I have had problems with jamming in the cooler end, especially when I printed filament with a higher melting temperature, ABS in this case. I reduced the area of the airflow so that no air could pass through other than by passing over the heat sink fins, and the ABS printed correctly.
All of 3D printing is a balance of one factor against another. It is hard to lose, though, by increasing the cooler-end temperature. All will seem well until you print something with a lower flow, or a higher retraction rate, or you try using a higher temperature for the same filament. Then the jam can unexpectedly occur, or, perhaps worse, it can be an intermittent jam, or there can be a lot to sticktion, and printing becomes prone to gaps, or occasional under extrusion.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/17 | 945 | 3,735 | <issue_start>username_0: On 16 September 2020, Autodesk announced changes in the way that Fusion 360 can be used for non-commercial use with their Personal license. As a hobbyist, most of these changes will not affect me very much, since I do not use Fusion 360's advanced features. The most irksome will be only being allowed to have up to ten "documents" active at any one time, the rest having to be archived.
However, Autodesk are also restricting the number of file formats that you can export to. For example, the STEP file format will no longer be available with the Personal license. Will this mean that I will not be able to move my models to another CAD package, such as FreeCAD, once the changes come into effect (without first buying a commercial license)?
[Autodesk: Changes to Fusion 360 for personal use](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Fusion-360-Free-License-Changes.html)
**Edit: Good news. Autodesk have announced, on 25 September 2020, that the facility to export models to STEP files will be retained for the free-to-use, personal license.**<issue_comment>username_1: Most of my answer is based off of what Autodesk has said and [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlnEThQ4HR8) from Maker's Muse, which explains this topic in much more detail.
In summary, Autodesk is planning on restricting your ability to export any parametric file formats like .STEP or .IGES, leaving no useful CAD-specific files available for users with personal licenses.
I would recommend exporting everything you want to keep as .STEP right now just in case you do decide to switch programs later on, because you won't be able to switch after the changes go into effect.
I hope that helps.
EDIT: As Oscar has pointed out, .STEP exporting is now also part of the general consumer's license, and you can export to other CAD packages at any time. As far as I can tell, other parametric formats, notably .IGES, is still not available for consumers. This shouldn't pose too much of a problem.
I'm going to leave my original post intact for now.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you use the private license: there was supposed to be a cutoff date.
=======================================================================
As long as you use the "private" license, you will get some restrictions. Originally, including the lock off of `.step` and similar files as well as limiting you to 10 active projects. This means, that you will need to deactivate some to make room for new ones, but unless you have many interlocking parts, 10 can be quite a lot for a hobbyist.
They also lock off features that are pretty much only useful for small companies - and if you are in the shoes missing those features, you are on the wrong free license anyway.
In late ([25th](https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/blog/changes-to-fusion-360-for-personal-use/).) September 2020, the lock of `.step` was reversed, but other formats will still no longer be available.
This does not apply to all free licenses
========================================
Note that this does not apply to the free education license for teachers and students or the free business license for sub 100,000 \$ companies. You might want to consider swapping to either of these two plans if you qualify.
Last words
==========
I agree with [<NAME>:](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4CqWWQXaPE&t=0s) Autodesk is under no obligation to offer a free version at all and even a somewhat restricted, locked into the Autodesk-world version is much better than nothing. I will keep using it, but I am also in the education space and thus not directly affected.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/17 | 664 | 2,267 | <issue_start>username_0: I took the plunge and bought a resin printer. I was wondering if I could use full strength home-brew vodka at 90 % instead of using isopropyl alcohol before anything is added to clean prints with?
I cannot seem to find anywhere or anyone that has tried this.<issue_comment>username_1: Isopropyl-Alcohol - Propan-2-ol - and Ethyl alcohol - Ethan-1-ol - are different chemically. As a secondary alcohol, Propan-2-ol has quite different solubility of different materials than ethyl-alcohol.
Now, let's look at home made alcoholic destillate. That stuff is, if done in one refraction and without tossing the first low temperature part, some percentages Metanol, Ethyl alcohol and maybe some water. That has not the same solvent properties as Propan-2-ol.
While it *might* work, nobody will sign a guarantee that it doesn't negatively impact your print.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Some manufacturers do recommend ethanol and not isopropanol. The problem would be getting relatively pure ethanol through distillation. When distilling you will get different fractions which may be full of methanol or water. You will probably need to do multiple runs. You could just buy some 95% ethanol and distill it once it gets dirty or leave it in the sun to cure the resin and filter it out.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: *Answer taken from [Apesa](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/18796/apesa)'s highly upvoted, and now deleted, comments ([1](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14440/home-brew-alcohol-to-clean-resin-prints#comment26055_14440) and [2](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14440/home-brew-alcohol-to-clean-resin-prints#comment26058_14440)). If Apesa posts their own answer, then this wiki answer can be deleted.*
*Note: Please don't post answers in comments - that is not how SE works.*
---
Isopropyl Alcohol is the more common choice for cleaning surfaces because it evaporates more rapidly than ethanol and also because it does not leave any traces of oils upon evaporation.
To add one more caveat. Homemade alcohol no matter the proof / % will have many fusile alcohols that will deposit themselves on your semi cured resin. 90% alcohol dosen't equate to clean solvent.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/18 | 590 | 2,100 | <issue_start>username_0: I had my 3D printer powered by dual 24 V PSUs wired in parallel and my heatbed was wired into the main using a SSR to help power it. I replaced the two PSUs with a single Corsair 750 W ATX. My printer runs smoother and there's much less wiring clutter to deal with but now no matter what the heatbed will not heat up.
The main connection of the ATX I purchased is an 8 pin connection so I tried using all 4 wires to power my printer and it didn't make a difference, I tried using the SSR again using 2 connections from the ATX leaving the other 2 to run the motherboard but that didn't work either. I even tried MOSFET and that also failed. I don't see why the Heatbed no longer heats up yet the thermistor is more accurate and working properly since my switch to the ATX, do I need to go up to a 1000 W ATX instead? I can't imagine what more I could do.
<issue_comment>username_1: You indicated that you were using 24 volts, implying you have a 24 volt bed. ATX power supplies do not have 24 volt outputs. The highest is 12 volts which would heat up the bed, but not fast or probably to full temperature.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: voltage = current x resistance
An ATX PSU is designed to only allow approximately 16 amps per pair of YELLOW and BLACK wires. The yellow is 12 V and the black is GND. If your bed were rated at 24 V then its resistance would be higher than that of the 12 V bed. The best solution for you would be to get a 12 V heated bed, as opposed to using a boost converter. Reason being is that you would need to get a boost converter that can tolerate over 200 W of power! It's just cheaper to replace the bed.
Finally, you need to consider the heat bed, the extruders and the steper motor's power needs before you purchase a PSU. If you had a multimeter with a current measurement, then you could accurately determine how much power each one uses and then purchase to size.
Based on your bed size (600 mm) I think that 500 W should be enough.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/19 | 1,573 | 4,172 | <issue_start>username_0: The title pretty much sums up the issue. It was happening before moving to an SKR Mini E3 V1.2 and is still happening with the new board.
If I run A `G28`, then a `G29` - while *not* heated - I will get some mesh data (poor mesh data because I haven't levelled the bed but that's not the main issue).
If I then repeatedly run `G29` (lets say 5 times) there will be variation between the measurement but only and expected amount and nothing more.
```
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.592 +0.270 +0.010
1 +0.082 +0.010 -0.062
2 +0.215 +0.078 -0.065
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.597 +0.267 +0.002
1 +0.085 +0.007 -0.065
2 +0.215 +0.078 -0.065
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.607 +0.267 -0.002
1 +0.085 +0.010 -0.065
2 +0.212 +0.075 -0.060
```
Although it does continue to climb a bit, it's a BLTouch they're not *the* most accurate things so I'm not worrying about it.
However, if I heat the nozzle (200 °C) and bed (60 °C):
```
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.537 +0.252 +0.022
1 +0.057 -0.002 -0.050
2 +0.200 +0.075 -0.087
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.495 +0.203 -0.030
1 +0.020 -0.027 -0.097
2 +0.150 +0.027 -0.127
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.462 +0.180 -0.067
1 -0.002 -0.072 -0.150
2 +0.122 -0.010 -0.170
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.422 +0.132 -0.105
1 -0.057 -0.140 -0.192
2 +0.075 -0.043 -0.215
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.367 +0.082 -0.165
1 -0.110 -0.155 -0.233
2 +0.030 -0.102 -0.255
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.347 +0.045 -0.190
1 -0.135 -0.180 -0.250
2 +0.002 -0.127 -0.280
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.322 +0.032 -0.215
1 -0.155 -0.230 -0.280
2 -0.020 -0.142 -0.315
```
As you can see the variations in the measurements are *very* high.
This must be a known issue because Marlin does have a `PROBING_HEATERS_OFF` option but this would take even more time and I'm just curious if there is a reason for this or another fix to it.
I don't believe it would be a current issue since the power supply used can deliver many amps so it's probably something like electrical noise. I think it's fine to leave it because you only home and probe once during a print so the measurements would be 'accurate' but it would be reassuring to find out a reason and a possible fix.
I measured the rail with my oscilloscope and it actually isn't very noisy, whether I was heating or not. However, Vmax was 4.6 and Vmin was 4.4 and I'm wondering if that is too low. These voltages didn't change while heating so I think they are always that low.
**Edit**
For completeness, here an image of the printer:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VPM3.jpg)
and here graphs about the BLtouch data over time:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MivOq.png)<issue_comment>username_1: You indicated that you were using 24 volts, implying you have a 24 volt bed. ATX power supplies do not have 24 volt outputs. The highest is 12 volts which would heat up the bed, but not fast or probably to full temperature.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: voltage = current x resistance
An ATX PSU is designed to only allow approximately 16 amps per pair of YELLOW and BLACK wires. The yellow is 12 V and the black is GND. If your bed were rated at 24 V then its resistance would be higher than that of the 12 V bed. The best solution for you would be to get a 12 V heated bed, as opposed to using a boost converter. Reason being is that you would need to get a boost converter that can tolerate over 200 W of power! It's just cheaper to replace the bed.
Finally, you need to consider the heat bed, the extruders and the steper motor's power needs before you purchase a PSU. If you had a multimeter with a current measurement, then you could accurately determine how much power each one uses and then purchase to size.
Based on your bed size (600 mm) I think that 500 W should be enough.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/20 | 429 | 1,560 | <issue_start>username_0: How would one go about squaring the gantry relative to the frame?
Referring to the image below, distance A and distance B are not equal.
Also would this account for the reason why when I attempt to print a circle it is not perfectly circular, and when I try to print a square, it is tilted?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/utLCW.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You indicated that you were using 24 volts, implying you have a 24 volt bed. ATX power supplies do not have 24 volt outputs. The highest is 12 volts which would heat up the bed, but not fast or probably to full temperature.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: voltage = current x resistance
An ATX PSU is designed to only allow approximately 16 amps per pair of YELLOW and BLACK wires. The yellow is 12 V and the black is GND. If your bed were rated at 24 V then its resistance would be higher than that of the 12 V bed. The best solution for you would be to get a 12 V heated bed, as opposed to using a boost converter. Reason being is that you would need to get a boost converter that can tolerate over 200 W of power! It's just cheaper to replace the bed.
Finally, you need to consider the heat bed, the extruders and the steper motor's power needs before you purchase a PSU. If you had a multimeter with a current measurement, then you could accurately determine how much power each one uses and then purchase to size.
Based on your bed size (600 mm) I think that 500 W should be enough.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/22 | 657 | 2,325 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to connect my PC to my Anet A8 through [Pronterface](https://www.pronterface.com/) on Ubuntu.
But when I'm clicking on the "connect" button in Pronterface, all I see is "*Connecting ...*".
What I did so far
* added my user to the `dialout` group
* tried to run it as `root`
* tried different baudrates
* switch to different USB cables
* tried to install and run it on a different machine and different OS (Windows) with nearly the same result (additionally I see repeated lines with `M105`, but no response)
The printer itself works - I want to connect to it, to "PID tune" it, because I added a different fan duct.
**How can I make sure the board isn't somewhat damaged, and its just my setup?**<issue_comment>username_1: You may need to install a device driver for the USB interface chip that your printer uses. I'm guessing that the Anet A8 uses a clone of the FTDI FT232RL chip (which was and may still be common with cheap Chinese printers).
If this is the case, you will need to install the appropriate driver from this site: [FTDI Chip Virtual COM Port Drivers](https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm).
Edit: I can confirm that Pronterface will not work with my Tronxy X1 (which uses an FT232RL clone) on the latest version of Ubuntu.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have this printer and used this board many times over USB.
The genuine Arduino boards use the FTDI FT232RL to convert USB signals to UART signals.
The problem with these Arduino based clone boards is that they do not use the FTDI chips as these are too expensive. These boards use a CH340G chip which is a Chinese clone which requires a specific driver to be installed before you can communicate with the board:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/C5712.jpg "CH304G chipset on Anet A8 board")
*Image shows a close-up of the CH340G chipset on the Anet A8 controller board.*
When you bought the printer, the SD-card contained the driver that you need to install on your OS. I remember that this driver was for the Windows OS. However, you can download the driver for many platforms (Windows, Mac and Linux) directly from the [manufacturer](http://www.wch.cn/download/CH341SER_EXE.html).
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/24 | 541 | 1,927 | <issue_start>username_0: So I have some old filament that I originally got for a 3D pen. The problem is it's unlabeled and I haven't been able to find anything that might help me distinguish whether it's PLA or ABS. The bag it all came in says that wherever this filament came from only makes PLA and ABS so it's got to be on of those two.
I have a roll of PLA in my 3D printer right now, but I can't tell if it's the same as the filament I have for the 3D pen. It's been a while since I've used the 3D pen, but I do remember whenever you used it, it would produce a very very bad smell. I've also noticed that the filament seems to be more flexible that the PLA in my machine. This makes me think it could be ABS, because the PLA smells far better than what I remember the 3D pen smelling like, and it's more flexible.
I also don't really want to do any heat tests or anything on the filament, so if the smell and flexibility is enough to determine which filament it is, could anyone tell me?<issue_comment>username_1: Mick's suggestion is a good one. PLA may shed some color in acetone, but ABS will dissolve completely in a suitable amount of time. If you have dark filament, you can test by flexing the filament until it breaks. ABS will sometimes/often/usually fatigue with a white break line, while PLA does not exhibit this tendency as much.
PLA has a somewhat sweet smell, which may be the corn sugars burning off, while ABS has a much more chemical-like odor.
Not doing heat testing does limit your options.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Just burn it and check flame color.
I know you mentioned that you would like to avoid heat test, but this method is much faster and easier then other techniques.
* [3D printing filament burn test](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNKno20GMMQ)
* [Do 3D Prints Catch Fire? ABS / PLA / PETG Burn Test - Episode 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7l0Aaysy_8)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/09/24 | 1,212 | 4,292 | <issue_start>username_0: What materials work well for lubricating moving PLA, ABS, or PETG parts? I'm talking items like the
the [Gear Bearings](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451) or [Print in Place Engine](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575774).
I've played with a few lubricants on my own, including hand lotion, trumpet valve oil, and carmex/vaseline. Of these, the vaseline has worked best for me so far, but I'd like to hear what has worked well for others, or especially if there's anyone here who understands the chemistry involved and could explain what to look for in different situations.<issue_comment>username_1: When dealing with lubrication of plastics, any solvent or reactive substance is to be avoided. Petroleum is risky and Vaseline™ is a brand name for petroleum jelly.
I've had quite good results using inert lubrication such as PTFE and silicone based lubes. PTFE is the generic term for [Teflon™](http://www.chm.bris.ac.uk/motm/teflon/teflonv.htm) and is quite a good lubricant. There are both silicone and PTFE greases for higher viscosity applications.
From the Teflon™ link:
>
> Teflon's amazing properties are down to its structure. Like most
> polymers, Teflon has a carbon-based chain. However, instead of
> reactive C-H bonds which occur in most polymers, Teflon has all its
> hydrogens replaced by fluorines. These strong C-F bonds are extremely
> resistant to attack by any other reagents, making Teflon very inert.
> This means that no other molecules will react with or stick to Teflon.
> The exception is Teflon itself, which will stick to itself quite
> readily, forming thick layers or solid blocks. With a friction
> coefficient of <0.1, Teflon has the second lowest friction coefficient
> (surpassed only by diamond-like carbon), which makes it perfect for
> non-stick items e.g. pans. DuPont invented the non-stick pan coated
> with Teflon in 1956 and have manufactured it ever since. Teflon
> coatings are so slippery that they are the only material that a gecko
> cannot stick to.
>
>
>
Who knew that gecko testing was a thing?
[Wikipedia](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease) for silicone grease:
>
> Although silicones are normally assumed to be chemically inert,
> several historically significant compounds have resulted from
> unintended reactions with silicones.
>
>
>
Powdered graphite is also a good lubricant if one can tolerate loose powder in some constructions.
I've read of others using lithium grease, but not for plastic lubrication.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: After some testing, I can say that any oil is a bad option.
I've found that light oils tend to soak into and **through** any 3D printed FDM parts because of the small voids between lines and in turns and corners.
It is possible that resin-printed parts could be more oil-resistant, but I don't have any for testing.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Petroleum based lubricants are perfectly acceptable for use with PLA, as well as PETG and TPU, and will not attack the polymer. I use STP red high temp automotive grease in my printed gears with no problems. ABS and ASA on the other hand sould not be used with such lubricants.
If your print quality is poor and you have lots of extrusion gaps between layers or between walls, it seems plausible that *any* lubricant will work its way into these gaps and loosen any points where it's just friction between the extrusion lines, rather than actual fusing of the plastic, holding them together. But this should not happen in parts intended for serious mechanical usage, which need to be printed in a manner that's structurally sound.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Try aerosol silicone spray first. That's worked well for me in most situations. It is reasonably innocuous and dries so is clean and doesn't attract or hold particulate contaminants. If that proves insufficient then try other options.
Graphite powder is a good dry lubricant but has disadvantages; doesn't adhere so has limited "staying power", may be electrically conductive and is messy.
If grease is indicated consider an anti-seize compound, essentially grease with a large dose of graphite mixed in. It's messy but may be a good solution if dry compounds or oils don't do the job.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/09/25 | 1,251 | 4,876 | <issue_start>username_0: Not storing left-over photopolymer resin back with pristine resin in its original shipping can seems to be a common recommendation.
What is the best practice here? Store in a separate bottle and pour this "once around the block" resin first for the next print?<issue_comment>username_1: Considerations for storing resin include using a light-tight bottle, preventing stray ultraviolet radiation from prematurely curing the resin.
You'll also note that users will filter the resin through a fine mesh filter. I've seen some videos in which the user pours through coffee filters to remove as many particulates as possible.
Left-over resin that has been carefully filtered is effectively the same as fresh-from-the-bottle material, from a purely technical view, but you can pick up contaminants that bypass the filter.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Safety first
------------
I suggest the following handling of resins, some basic stuff first:
* **ALWAYS** wear disposable, one-use gloves when handling resin.
* Respirators are highly advised to be worn.
* Work in a well-ventilated area.
* Tools dedicated to resin handling are for resin only to prevent contamination of other tools.
* Try to minimize the amount added to the vat, so you have as little rests as possible.
Re-cycling
----------
Now, what to do to get the used resin back to the cycle? Any resin that has been exosed to air and light, such as having been in the vat is best considered to be B-Quality. You can use it to cast greeblies or bits (aka disposal by curing), as one would do with leftover casting (2-component) resin, but that is a waste.
### Step 1: Re-botteling
So, let's look at some better ways: first of all re-botteling the resin. We need to take in mind, that the quality of our resin will further degrade the longer it stays exposed to light (and to a lesser degree: air), so we need to handle the resin in a way that allows us to eliminate exposition to either. For this, it would be best to keep an empty resin bottle at hand and label it as the leftover bottle. To fill this bottle, you should use a [Jig](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=resin%20vat&type=things&sort=relevant) to keep the vat in a position that it pours into the bottle. You might want to use a funnel in some cases!
Step 2: Re-conditioning
-----------------------
Now, we know how to get the stuff back into the (B-quality) bottle. But how to make sure it has the best quality we can? As you notice, many of the jigs involve a funnel. This funnel is used in conjunction with a filter to remove larger particles. The finer the filter, the better. [Coffee filters](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee_filter#Paper_filter) manage to snatch particles down to about 10 to 15 micrometers. It is equivalent to about Grade 4 laboratory filter paper. However, laboratory filter paper of [grades 1,2,3 or 602h](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_paper#Qualitative_filter_paper) would allow to catch particles of even lower size, as the mesh gets even smaller, but might clog faster. Tea filters on the other hand have worse filtration ability and should be avoided.
To get the best out of it, use a filtration stack, that starts with a metal mesh filter before going through a rough and a fine filter to get out any chunks and large particles that would clog the fine filter.
It would be best to have this process run in the dark, so mounting the dripping and filtration stack in a box might first sound like overkill, but if you go through a large amount of resin (for example by running several printers) it might be an investment that can save a considerable amount of resin in the long run. However, if you run so many printers, you also might run them continually with the same resin colors and just refill them as needed and only filter if there had been a print failure.
Step 3: Storage
---------------
Store your bottles in a closed cupboard. It would be best if this cupboard is ventilated through a filtration unit and then outside. It should also keep a steady temperature above about 10 °C to prevent clumping. Just follow the storage manual for the normal resin actually.
Step 4: Re-use
--------------
Now comes the tricky part: re-using the resin. While technically the filtered and re-bottled resin should be almost as good as new, it would be best to make sure that we mix it with some virgin resin to make sure we have enough photoinitiator in the resin. For this, I would suggest mixing the recycled resin with between a sixth and half of the fresh stuff. Mix the two well to make sure you get the best possible. Make sure it's the same type and color of the used resin, best even from the same original batch.
Use up the re-cycled resin first, as you should consider it's best before date much shorter than on the virgin bottle.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/09/27 | 1,238 | 4,832 | <issue_start>username_0: My only functional computer at the moment is a raspberry pi, and I was wondering if there was any software that supported it. My printer is a Newmatter mod-t, but I might be able to modify other software to support it<issue_comment>username_1: Considerations for storing resin include using a light-tight bottle, preventing stray ultraviolet radiation from prematurely curing the resin.
You'll also note that users will filter the resin through a fine mesh filter. I've seen some videos in which the user pours through coffee filters to remove as many particulates as possible.
Left-over resin that has been carefully filtered is effectively the same as fresh-from-the-bottle material, from a purely technical view, but you can pick up contaminants that bypass the filter.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Safety first
------------
I suggest the following handling of resins, some basic stuff first:
* **ALWAYS** wear disposable, one-use gloves when handling resin.
* Respirators are highly advised to be worn.
* Work in a well-ventilated area.
* Tools dedicated to resin handling are for resin only to prevent contamination of other tools.
* Try to minimize the amount added to the vat, so you have as little rests as possible.
Re-cycling
----------
Now, what to do to get the used resin back to the cycle? Any resin that has been exosed to air and light, such as having been in the vat is best considered to be B-Quality. You can use it to cast greeblies or bits (aka disposal by curing), as one would do with leftover casting (2-component) resin, but that is a waste.
### Step 1: Re-botteling
So, let's look at some better ways: first of all re-botteling the resin. We need to take in mind, that the quality of our resin will further degrade the longer it stays exposed to light (and to a lesser degree: air), so we need to handle the resin in a way that allows us to eliminate exposition to either. For this, it would be best to keep an empty resin bottle at hand and label it as the leftover bottle. To fill this bottle, you should use a [Jig](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=resin%20vat&type=things&sort=relevant) to keep the vat in a position that it pours into the bottle. You might want to use a funnel in some cases!
Step 2: Re-conditioning
-----------------------
Now, we know how to get the stuff back into the (B-quality) bottle. But how to make sure it has the best quality we can? As you notice, many of the jigs involve a funnel. This funnel is used in conjunction with a filter to remove larger particles. The finer the filter, the better. [Coffee filters](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coffee_filter#Paper_filter) manage to snatch particles down to about 10 to 15 micrometers. It is equivalent to about Grade 4 laboratory filter paper. However, laboratory filter paper of [grades 1,2,3 or 602h](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Filter_paper#Qualitative_filter_paper) would allow to catch particles of even lower size, as the mesh gets even smaller, but might clog faster. Tea filters on the other hand have worse filtration ability and should be avoided.
To get the best out of it, use a filtration stack, that starts with a metal mesh filter before going through a rough and a fine filter to get out any chunks and large particles that would clog the fine filter.
It would be best to have this process run in the dark, so mounting the dripping and filtration stack in a box might first sound like overkill, but if you go through a large amount of resin (for example by running several printers) it might be an investment that can save a considerable amount of resin in the long run. However, if you run so many printers, you also might run them continually with the same resin colors and just refill them as needed and only filter if there had been a print failure.
Step 3: Storage
---------------
Store your bottles in a closed cupboard. It would be best if this cupboard is ventilated through a filtration unit and then outside. It should also keep a steady temperature above about 10 °C to prevent clumping. Just follow the storage manual for the normal resin actually.
Step 4: Re-use
--------------
Now comes the tricky part: re-using the resin. While technically the filtered and re-bottled resin should be almost as good as new, it would be best to make sure that we mix it with some virgin resin to make sure we have enough photoinitiator in the resin. For this, I would suggest mixing the recycled resin with between a sixth and half of the fresh stuff. Mix the two well to make sure you get the best possible. Make sure it's the same type and color of the used resin, best even from the same original batch.
Use up the re-cycled resin first, as you should consider it's best before date much shorter than on the virgin bottle.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/09/27 | 807 | 2,673 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to print a part from Thingiverse. In the description, the creater writes that he used SBS to print it. I did some research because I never heard of SBS.
I found a description on Filaments.directory that describes it as:
>
> Poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) is a hard, durable rubber that is commonly used for shoe soles, tires and other products that experience high wear.
>
>
>
But if I search for SBS filaments to buy, there only shows ABS up. Did I misunderstood something and SBS is the same as ABS.<issue_comment>username_1: As you found and according to this site, SBS is a [Styryne-Butadiene](https://www.pslc.ws/macrog/sbs.htm) polymer that only contains Styrene and Butadiene chains interlinked. This is similar to ABS, but not identical.
Some people have access to filament manufacturing machines or use pellet extruders, however, googling for ["SBS" filament](https://lmgtfy.app/?q=%22SBS%22%20filament) I was able to source at the moment two sites with information:
* [Craftbot.nl](https://www.craftbot.nl/2016/04/26/sbs-filament-english/) is a reseller who also explain why this stuff is such expensive with 40€ for 750 grams
* the [very site you had (apparently defunct, no waybackmachine grab)](https://www.filaments.directory/en/plastics/sbs), which tells us there is exactly one brand: [Filamentarno](https://filamentarno.ru/default.html) from Russia, but the link to the amazon marketplace from there shows no availability of this product at all.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This response might be way late but no, SBS is not a typo.
[Here are the info](http://generalpolymers.net/sbs.cfm):
>
> **SBS (styrene-butadiene-styrene)**
>
>
> Poly (styrene-butadiene-styrene) or SBS, is a hard rubber that's used to modify asphalt, to make soles of shoes, tire treads, and other places where durability is important. It's a type of copolymer called a block copolymer. Its backbone chain is made up of three segments. The first is a long chain of polystyrene, the middle is a long chain of polybutadiene, and the last segment is another long section of polystyrene.
>
>
> Polystyrene is a tough hard plastic, and this gives SBS its durability. Polybutadiene is rubbery, and this gives SBS its rubber-like properties. In addition, the polystyrene chains tend to clump together. When one styrene group of one SBS molecule joins one clump, and the other polystyrene chain of the same SBS molecule joins another clump, the different clumps become tied together with rubbery polybutadiene chains. This gives the material the ability to retain its shape after being stretched.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/09/28 | 609 | 2,319 | <issue_start>username_0: Of course I'm referring to side by side and not stacking or overlapping. 200 x 200 mm PEI and Kapton sheets are more readily available than 400 x 400 sheets. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this and if the edges of the sheets cause a problem.<issue_comment>username_1: I haven't tried such a thing, but a speculative answer covering the constraints and expected failure modes may suffice here.
Unless the sheets have squared (rather than rounded) corners, the corners will almost certainly be a problem. In particular you'd end up with a hole right at the middle of the bed.
If the sides aren't entirely square (perpendicular) with each other then you'll have large gaps at one end or another.
As Trish noted in a comment, it's also possible that you may hit problems due to mismatch in thickness between the different sheets, although I'd expect these are fairly well-controlled in the manufacturing process; otherwise I'd expect bed leveling issues even with just a single sheet. If you do hit this kind of issue, it may be possible to avoid it with shimming of some sort.
Assuming you can avoid all of the above potential problems, I would expect what you've proposed to work reasonably well, especially if you're ok with very minor surface defects at the seams.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Aligning build surfaces isn't the main issue with 1 mm thick surfaces when aligning four 200 x 200 mm surfaces to make one 400 x 400 surface. The main issue is slight bucking at the seams from thermal mismatch. Using this with PETG tends to tear up the build surface at the seams. The image shows aligned surfaces.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/14q3L.jpg)
The above was a poor design because prints tended to always print on the seams, which are more susceptible to damage when removing the print.
More reliable was to put one 200 x 200 mm surface in the center of the bed, cut the other three in half, and tile them along the sides. Glue stice helps fill the seams.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg)
The center of the surface tends to wear out first. In that case only the center surface would need changing.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/09/29 | 889 | 3,287 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using an AnyCubic Photon Resin Printer. I have used the ([WoW model viewer](https://wowmodelviewer.net) to export a miniture that I am hoping to 3D print.
However, when I look at the model in photon workshop, certain parts appear in a different colour, and those parts are printing incorrectly on the final version. For example, if you look at the model below the headpiece feathers printed as a solid block all the way to the base of the model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnmjT.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiLiX.png)
Looking at the slicing file, this is what photon workshop exported. I believe the issue may be that, because these are models deisigned for games and not 3d printing, they have only one surface and what I am looking at in Blue is what the photon workshop considers to be the inside of the model. Would ye be able to recommend any steps that I could do to adjust the models to allow them be 3D printed?
<https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp_QHOvaWfPtULs>
The above link is the object as exported from WoW Model viewer.<issue_comment>username_1: I haven't tried such a thing, but a speculative answer covering the constraints and expected failure modes may suffice here.
Unless the sheets have squared (rather than rounded) corners, the corners will almost certainly be a problem. In particular you'd end up with a hole right at the middle of the bed.
If the sides aren't entirely square (perpendicular) with each other then you'll have large gaps at one end or another.
As Trish noted in a comment, it's also possible that you may hit problems due to mismatch in thickness between the different sheets, although I'd expect these are fairly well-controlled in the manufacturing process; otherwise I'd expect bed leveling issues even with just a single sheet. If you do hit this kind of issue, it may be possible to avoid it with shimming of some sort.
Assuming you can avoid all of the above potential problems, I would expect what you've proposed to work reasonably well, especially if you're ok with very minor surface defects at the seams.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Aligning build surfaces isn't the main issue with 1 mm thick surfaces when aligning four 200 x 200 mm surfaces to make one 400 x 400 surface. The main issue is slight bucking at the seams from thermal mismatch. Using this with PETG tends to tear up the build surface at the seams. The image shows aligned surfaces.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/14q3L.jpg)
The above was a poor design because prints tended to always print on the seams, which are more susceptible to damage when removing the print.
More reliable was to put one 200 x 200 mm surface in the center of the bed, cut the other three in half, and tile them along the sides. Glue stice helps fill the seams.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mC4ea.jpg)
The center of the surface tends to wear out first. In that case only the center surface would need changing.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/10/01 | 810 | 3,055 | <issue_start>username_0: My goal is to have a speaker inside a PLA casing to produce a nice hearable sound from a submersible item.
I intended to produce that sound from a Piezo buzzer stuck on a membrane held tight in hollow place between two pieces, but the result is unsatisfactory as the sound gets muffled to inaudible levels.
Is there any known 3D printable methods to permit for a sound to be heard from PLA?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLaB3.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: In space, no one can hear you scream. That's because there's no air to be vibrated, which is part of the definition of sound.
In the case of your model, the described diaphragm will generate sound because it is surrounded by air. The vibrations in the air will transfer (and reflect) from the PLA shell you've created.
In order to hear as much sound as possible, you have to have as thin a shell as possible and only one of them. It would be more effective if you could incorporate the membrane into the shell, which eliminates the sound damping effect of the plastic sphere.
Barring that option, one layer (vase mode, but probably not) would present the created sound with a much less massive amount of plastic to vibrate.
Additionally, PLA is not known for being water tight. One can apply epoxy or other sealants to make it so, but that will add mass to the overall equation.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You basically are asking about acoustics (see [http://www.cs.tut.fi/~sgn14006/PDF/L02-acoustics.pdf](http://www.cs.tut.fi/%7Esgn14006/PDF/L02-acoustics.pdf)). The main parameters you are dealing with you can see in the simple harmonic model: flexibility (spring) and mass. Thinner walls gives you more spring and less mass. Different filament materials will also change these parameters. On thing to consider is PLA becomes more brittle as it absorbs moisture. Someone who designs acoustical musical instruments probably could help you.
However, note that the ideal acoustics is different for a person speaking versus music, such as orchestra or band. Thus, application is important. For example, if your building earphones, you want to dampen external sound.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I did a lot of experimentation in this a couple years ago. The limitation on the sound is the amount of energy you can apply to the plastic, and the ability of the plastic to respond (move to) that energy. I ended up using epoxy to fasten a transducer directly to the plastic wall, and while the sound quality was not great (I could not have used it for speech or music) it was adequate to make the alarm sound, 50% PWM @ 3.3V and I controlled the frequency using the Arduino 'tone' library to control the frequency. I printed that side solid (no infill) and a bit thinner than the other sides (2mm instead of 4mm), printed it separately and then used epoxy to glue in (and its attached transducer) to the cube I was using for the rest of the circuitry.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/10/03 | 1,069 | 4,041 | <issue_start>username_0: After some months of good quality prints, since yesterday my heatbed does not heat anymore.
I've a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos with [this](https://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD-Mk2b-dual-power_blk.jpg) heatbed, controlled by [this](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71M29xMMLZL._AC_SY355_.jpg) mechanical relay and powered by [this](https://www.amazon.it/Lixada-Trasformatore-Tensione-Interruttore-Alimentazione/dp/B00ECW6K74) power source. I know that a mechanical relay is not the best choice for a 3D printer, but I only had one of those when I've built the bed and setting *bang bang control* for the plate gave me some satisfactory prints.
Since if I connect directly the heatbed to the power source, the latter stops working (I think because of its shortage protection), I'm almost sure that in some way I've managed to fry my heatbed.
Before buying a new one, though, I'd like to understand how I've broken the current heatbed without doing anything but printing, to avoid similar situations in the future.
I'm afraid I've forgotten some component whose functionality is to protect the heatbed (maybe a diode or something similar, I'm sorry but I have never studied electronics).
I've attached a very simple wiring diagram showing the current configuration.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHA7.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Assuming you are using the correct voltage hot bed, what you have set up should be just fine.
On the other hand, if it’s a 12 volt bed with a 24 volt power supply, you could have easily burned it out.
If the voltages were matched properly, you may have just gotten unlucky.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I see four points of error:
* The heatbed could be faulty.
* The lines could be faulty.
* The trigger signal could be faulty.
* The power supply could be faulty.
So, how to check what it might be? We need to measure, but we need to measure in a setup of 12/24 V circuits while they are live. While not necessarily considered "dangerous", take extra precautions! Remove the parts you will need to access from the machine, ground the power supply, and use your utmost care! Make sure the heatbed is not connected to the Power supply, so we can measure it in the safest way.
Ruling out the Heatbed
======================
The first step can be done without power: the resistance of the heatbed should be non-0, non-open line. It's best to measure directly at the input pins to the bed. If it shows close to 0 (some milli-Ohms), open line (OL), or no continuity (NC), it has a short or is burned out and needs to be replaced.
Ruling out the Power Supply
===========================
Once we have reached a safe setup, take a voltmeter and measure the voltage (potential difference) on the pins you reserve for the heatbed. If it is 12 V with some tolerance, it's good, otherwise you might need to get a new power supply or have a professional fix yours.
Ruling out the trigger signal
=============================
Next, move your measuring to the output of the board. Now order your board to heat up the bed. Make no illusions, we **will** trigger TRP, as the bed is disconnected. This will need us to reset the board between tests. You should see a 5 V trigger signal. If not, your board or firmware might be faulty and require different investigations.
Ruing out the lines and switch
==============================
Next step is to swap to Resistance mode on the multimeter and measure the resistance of the switch, best with the whole power line. Under "heating", the setup should show a close to 0 Ohm resistance, if not it should show an infinite or open line.
What now?!
==========
If it is neither of the 4, reassemble on the test stand, reconnect the bed to the power supply and investigate all connections between the elements we just checked. Now order a heating procedure - as all components should be ok, it has to be one of the interfaces between the parts.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/10/12 | 515 | 1,798 | <issue_start>username_0: I love PrusaSlicer but I am having a problem.
As you can see in the picture the head makes movements that seem useless[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CLrS.png)
(blue lines that come out of the print in the corners and go back instantly in the object) and these make damages to the object during the print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOA3y.jpg)
How to configure PrusaSlicer so that doesn't happen again ?
Thank you.
Edit : Thank you for your answers but I think we have a misunderstanding. I already have z-hop activated, the real problem is that the slicer makes the head move outside the print (that's what you can see on the first screenshot, every blue line crossing the print shouldn't exist).
I actually don't have this problem with curaengine on repetierhost as you can see in the following screenshot :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0b73.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Enable Z-Hop. I don't know what the actual parameter is called but it should say something like "Z-Hop".
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In PrusaSlicer 2.0, use the Filament Settings Tab, Filament Overrides entry.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxXYU.png)
Look for Lift Z, click the box, enter a suitable figure. 0.2 is a good place to start. You can raise it if needed, lower it to decrease (minimally) the overall print time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I found the solution :
It was the option "avoid crossing perimeters" that seems to do exactly the contrary of what it means.
Thank you all for your answers.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/10/16 | 537 | 1,848 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to print a small box with 1 mm thick walls.
The box has rounded corners.
Cura slices the rounded corners with straight internal lines instead of rounded lines:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kw87.jpg)
The reason for these straight lines is that Cura is using infill to fill the walls, because it determines that there's not enough space in a 1 mm wall for three 0.4 mm passes.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDQAc.png)
This causes the walls to have small imperfections in the final print.
I was able to solve this by increasing the model wall thickness to 1.2 mm (to allow for 3 0.4 mm lines), but even then it wasn't doing it as a single continuous line, but instead breaking it into short lines at the corner:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqSAN.png)
Is there a way to avoid this issue without increasing the wall thickness, and have 3 continuous lines?<issue_comment>username_1: Enable Z-Hop. I don't know what the actual parameter is called but it should say something like "Z-Hop".
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In PrusaSlicer 2.0, use the Filament Settings Tab, Filament Overrides entry.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lxXYU.png)
Look for Lift Z, click the box, enter a suitable figure. 0.2 is a good place to start. You can raise it if needed, lower it to decrease (minimally) the overall print time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I found the solution :
It was the option "avoid crossing perimeters" that seems to do exactly the contrary of what it means.
Thank you all for your answers.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/10/18 | 1,482 | 5,563 | <issue_start>username_0: **[SOLVED]** on [EDIT 3]
I just finished changing my i3 Mega's PTFE tube and brass nozzle, reassembled it, always taking care not to damage the heating element and thermistor wires.
Then I check the temperature and it was cooling down, despite the set temperature being higher (210 ºC). I turned it off, let it cool down and turned it back on. I set it again to 210 ºC and it only reaches about 135 ºC-140 ºC, not going over it.
So I change the heating element and thermistor for fresh new ones (original ones, that came with the printer) and the same behavior takes place: not heating up beyond 140 ºC.
Any ideas on why this is happening or how to fix it? I checked the connectors and they all seem to be fine. Cooling fans run normally as well.
Printer: Anycubic i3 MEGA. All stock parts, except the new nozzle (standard brass nozzle) and the PTFE tube (a blue one with 1.9 mm internal diameter). I'm setting the temperatures through the printer's interface, as I have always done.
**[EDIT]**
I did check some stuff with the multimeter and what I got is that:
* The cables leading to the print head are fine;
* The heating element's voltage is correct and the MOSFET seems to be
working fine both by checking the voltage and from the LED that
lights up when it is sending current to the HE;
* The resistance of the HE is correct as well;
Form that, I am guessing the problem is the current fed to the HE. Later today I will try to heat both the nozzle and the bed to the (safe) max temperatures and see if the bed heating is problematic too. If so, the problem should be related to current.
If anyone has any other ideas, they are appreciated! :)
**[EDIT2]**
Heating up the print bed and the hotend at the same time didn't affect the bed at all. It heated up at the same pace as usual. Since the cables are fine, it shouldn't be a problem related to the power supply.
So I'm gessing the problem is the motherboard (Trigorilla 1.1). It didn't seem to have any burned components at a glance but I'm gonna check with a multimeter.
**[EDIT3]**
Turns out I messed up the heatbreaker, so the heatsink was cooling the hotend way too much... This is one way of learning I need to be careful with the heatbreaker, I guess. I'll leave a solution here for the newbies like me that end up in a similar situation.<issue_comment>username_1: I recently had similar problem with my Prusa i3 MK2.5. It was not able to maintain the set tempereature. I measured the heater catridge (which was new) and its resistance was correct (about 4 ohms). So I changed the hotend MOSFET on the stock board with no result. So I changed the heater catridge for the older one and the issue was gone.
Since you have changed the heater, it is unlikely that you have multiple bad ones. Thus the only thing that remains is the MOSFET and the power supply. Make sure your power supply is stable under load and can deliver enough current.
More likely it is the MOSFET. It behaves like a resistor in the path for the current. If it is swithced off, it is like a large resistor (units or tens of megaohms) in series therefore no or very little current can flow. If it is switched on (units or tens of milliohms) the resistance is very small allowing the current to flow through the heater. If a MOSFET is bad, when it is switched on it can have higher resistance (units of ohms) and thus limiting the current and creating a voltage divider. Which you can measure.
You have to get to the bare wires that lead to the heater. Turn on the heater. Place your voltmeter lead on one wire and the other lead on the otehr wire. The voltemeter should show voltage close to your power supply voltage. If it is showing less, the MOSFET is bad and needs replacing.
For that you will need soldering tools and skills. You probably have an SMD MOSFET soldered directly to the board. I suggest removing it and replacing it with a THT MOSFET that you would place separately from the board with its own heatsink. When on the board, the board acts as a heatsink.
If you cannot do that yourself, ask someone to do it for you.
Before replacing the MOSFET, find whether it is a n-channel or p-channel MOSFET. It will most likely be an n-channel MOSFET but make sure it is.
If you replace it with THT MOSFET I would suggest these two: IRFZ44N (n-channel) or IRF4905 (p-channel). They are general purpose MOSFETs and should work well enough for drop-in replacement.
If it is not the MOSFET, power supply or the heater, then I have no idea.
You should be able to trace one of these loops:
power supply -> (fuse ->) heater -> n-channel MOSFET -> power supply
power supply -> (fuse ->) p-channel MOSFET -> heater -> power supply
Most likely will be the first loop.
NOTE: Checking the heater resistance might help but does not have to. At room temperature the resistance might be within limits (as with mine example) and when heated up the resistance increases with temperature and thus limiting the current. You would have to measure the resistance when heated up and disconnected from all circuits. (Heat up -> disconnect heater -> measure -> cooldown).
Hope that helps and good luck.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a part of the extrusion ensemble called heatbreaker, responsible for sepparating the hot- and cold-ends. The problem is that I screwed the heatbreak up into the cold-end heatsinks and the heated block was now touching it. This made it cool off way too hard.
The solution was switching to a new, undamaged cold+hotend.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2020/10/19 | 984 | 3,866 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a 3D print where there are 5 holes with a diameter of 4 mm in a cup, and I would like liquid to flow through all 5 holes at once while slowly draining the cup (by slowly I mean: just take a few seconds and not drain instantly). Therefore the holes can not be very large.
When I fill water in the cup it drains fine until there is a small amount of water left, and then it just stops with a small layer of water flowing over the holes.
I'm guessing it is due to surface tension and not enough pressure from water above to push the water through...
Is there a hole design that fixes this problem? I don't know what to Google or if this is the right place to ask the question. It just takes too long to guess my way through and print every attempt at the right size or shape of hole (which I have done so far and still got nothing).<issue_comment>username_1: What you encounter there is a combination of Adhesion, Cohesion, and Capillary Force.
Cohesion is what holds the water together. Adhesion is the force to retain water against a wall or hanging from a pen's end, it is proportional to the surface wetted. Capillary Force is the resulting effect where water moves up through a thin tube, it is anti-proportional to the diameter and in the opposite direction of the weight (force). Their relation can be shown in this picture, where a droplet hangs on the end of a glass rod, which has a capillary in it:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q9iYq.png)
How to reduce the water sticking in the cup then?
* Make the straight part of the bore as short as possible. This can be done by having a thin cup. The shorter the hole, the less surface there is the water can adhere to vertically, and you might overcome capillary force.
* Smooth the hole. Maybe print it 3.5 mm and drill it up to your 4 mm diameter. This reduces adhesion.
* Smooth the inside surface. Reducing the adhesion to the inside by having less steps.
* Chamfer the inside of the holes. This alters the whole geometry and flow setup in the very low water level case, especially when the surface separates into several areas, above each hole. Then the larger volume belonging to each hole on the inner side means there is a little more pressure and you can get out some more water - and it also shortens the distance the hole has to bridge.
* make sure there is some slope everywhere inside so that the water will collect in one of the holes.
An example for a (non measured) design which relies heavily on chamfering to guide the water to the already chamfered holes and then keeps the straight section as short as possible could look like this: the central hole has a very wide chamfer, the whole plate directs water to the center and each of the other holes has a chamfer to guide out water.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMaIe.png)
However, there is a lower limit to where just tweaking the design will workd, which is based on cohesion. Cohesion is what results in surface tension and viscosity. You can only shift those limiting factors by altering the properties of the liquid, for example by adding an agent that lowers the surface tension and viscosity (soap).
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If it is possible to add a downward pointing thin needle (hair, AWG-40 wire etc.) to the edge of (each) hole, do it. The droplets will smoothly glide along it to its end, where the needle circumference becomes so tiny that surface tension cannot hold the droplet anymore. Surface tension won't have a chance!
With a very thin needle and funnel-like hydrophobic surface of the vessel, you may get rid of virtually any (microliter) amount of water. It can be hard to make it by 3D-printing, though.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/10/21 | 791 | 2,680 | <issue_start>username_0: There is filament residue on my glass bed that is so thin that it wont come off. I have had residue buildup for over a year now and none of it has come off. This residue appears with both the PETG and the PLA filament I have. Is there anyway to remove this residue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmG4e.png)<issue_comment>username_1: I would try a single edge razor blade at a low angle used as a scraper. If you can't feel the blade catching in the residue, it probably isn't an issue.
If you must get rid of it you don't have good choices of solvents. Maybe you can burn it off by placing the class in an oven through a clean cycle. With luck the hearing and cooling won't break the glass.
If you can't scrape it off with a sharp razor blade, I would just let it be.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Maybe you could put your bed at the max temperature and print a large square of 1 mm onto it using a higher than normal temperature for that filament, maybe this bonds the residue to the new print. Let it cool down and pry the print off or remove while hot.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Heat the bed to around 90 °C and then scrape everything off with a metallic scraper, like the ones used to fill gaps in walls. No need of a super sharp one, since the plastic will be very soft a that temperature.
If you have a razor blade and a **proper handle to avoid cutting yourself**, you won't need to heat the bed to more than 40 °C, since you dont want the plastic to be too soft.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: It's probably not practical, but what would be ideal is to put the glass from the bed in an oxygen plasma asher used in the semiconductor industry. It would probably be difficult to get a used one large enough, since your bed size probably matches state of the art wafer sizes.
What would be even more practical is for someone to develop an oxygen plasma cleaning torch that wouldn't overheat the glass (<https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/FINAL-REPORT-U-.-S-.-Department-of-Energy-Plasma-of-Hicks/fc32a874806de71f1d10f2d979d3a74e2bb7c0d0?p2df>). Plasma cutting torches already exist.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I had exactly the same issue. I read where ethyl acetate would work so I bought a can of Klean Strip M.E.K Substitute ([MSDS](https://www1.mscdirect.com/MSDS/MSDS00052/70250402-20200318.PDF) says it is ethyl acetate) at Home Depot and it works like a champ. No heating of the bed is required. All of the PLA build-up came off with a cloth rag and a little bit of elbow grease. Make sure to follow instructions. Good luck.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/10/25 | 773 | 2,976 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to create a case or a box which has two holes for incoming and exiting water. I want the box to be opened and closed. Therefore it is good to be something like a treasure box.
Is there a way to design the lid of the box to prevent water from leaking around the areas where the box and the lid are meeting without using glue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYo0p.png)<issue_comment>username_1: "Completely" is always relative, but for water at the pressures involved it's probably achievable. Normally you need some sort of *gasket* (material that can bend/compress to slight imperfections in the mating surfaces), and a means of holding the two surfaces tight against the gasket, to get such a seal.
With 3D printing, it's plausible that the print itself could be sufficiently non-rigid to achieve this, if you have a way of keeping the lid and box pressed tightly against each other - bolts through the lid, clips around the edges, etc. But it's unlikely to work well.
I would either print I suitable gasket in TPU, or cut one from some suitable material if you don't have the capability to print with TPU. Either way you still need to design your box and lid so that they're pressed tightly against the gasket.
One possible frame challenge would be doing a round box instead, with a circular threaded lid. It's likely that you could achieve a decent seal for your purposes without any gasket just by tightening the threads, and if not, you still have a really good setup for use with an added gasket.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this sounds obvious, but given the box has holes in the top – does it only need to be watertight when it's the right way up? If not, you could just do something like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg)
Assuming that won't work, I think a really good seal would be hard with just something like PLA, because the printing texture alone means there will always be tiny gaps between the mating surfaces. In some cases, those grooves will actually act as capillaries (if you've ever tried to use a sharpie marker on a print, you can imagine what I mean).
If the lid fits snugly, then just lining it with something like plumber's thread tape would probably do a good job.
If it needs to work straight out of the printer, then I would try something like this (obviously I've exaggerated the detail):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg)
The idea being something like the plastic seal you see on some types of refrigerator door, which has a thin wall with a free edge that allows it to flex.
NB in all these cases, sharp corners will cause problems – it will be easier to get a seal if you put a radius (say, 5mm) on the vertical edges of the box.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/10/26 | 834 | 3,231 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an SKR PRO control board with a dead (shorted, it's burning hot) main processor. I ordered a new board, it was my mistake.
The voltage regulators work, so I ordered a replacement STM32F407 processor from STM (a free sample actually) and I'll repair the board in my free time.
How can I test all pins of the new board, so that I can ensure the board is working when I'll sell it/when I'll use it for my next project?
I think that programmatically turning on and off each pin would be enough, then I would use an oscilloscope or a LED to verify the result. The pins which have special functions (heater, fan, MOSFET in general) would be tested accordingly, but I still need the pulsating input.<issue_comment>username_1: "Completely" is always relative, but for water at the pressures involved it's probably achievable. Normally you need some sort of *gasket* (material that can bend/compress to slight imperfections in the mating surfaces), and a means of holding the two surfaces tight against the gasket, to get such a seal.
With 3D printing, it's plausible that the print itself could be sufficiently non-rigid to achieve this, if you have a way of keeping the lid and box pressed tightly against each other - bolts through the lid, clips around the edges, etc. But it's unlikely to work well.
I would either print I suitable gasket in TPU, or cut one from some suitable material if you don't have the capability to print with TPU. Either way you still need to design your box and lid so that they're pressed tightly against the gasket.
One possible frame challenge would be doing a round box instead, with a circular threaded lid. It's likely that you could achieve a decent seal for your purposes without any gasket just by tightening the threads, and if not, you still have a really good setup for use with an added gasket.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this sounds obvious, but given the box has holes in the top – does it only need to be watertight when it's the right way up? If not, you could just do something like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg)
Assuming that won't work, I think a really good seal would be hard with just something like PLA, because the printing texture alone means there will always be tiny gaps between the mating surfaces. In some cases, those grooves will actually act as capillaries (if you've ever tried to use a sharpie marker on a print, you can imagine what I mean).
If the lid fits snugly, then just lining it with something like plumber's thread tape would probably do a good job.
If it needs to work straight out of the printer, then I would try something like this (obviously I've exaggerated the detail):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg)
The idea being something like the plastic seal you see on some types of refrigerator door, which has a thin wall with a free edge that allows it to flex.
NB in all these cases, sharp corners will cause problems – it will be easier to get a seal if you put a radius (say, 5mm) on the vertical edges of the box.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/10/26 | 992 | 3,860 | <issue_start>username_0: Unfortunately and regrettably.
Whilst trying to install and fit an SKR Turbo 1.4 Turbo Motherboard into 3D printer body, I managed to break the SKR 1.4 Turbo Motherboard SD-card reader. The card reader is not flush and protrudes from the board. It peeled the reader from the PCB.
I attempted to fix it without success. I have since removed it from the controller board (the original SD-Card Reader PCB pads are not intact so connecting a new SD-Card Reader in place is not possible)
**Have I bricked my brand new controller board?**
Please can anyone suggest (If possible):
1. Is there a way that this could be rectified in respect to uploading/flashing the Marlin 2 firmware to the SKR 1.4 Turbo
without the original SD-Card Reader Module?
*I am under the impression I may be able to use a programmer of some description to upload the firmware?*
2. Installation of a new SD-Card Reader that could be used instead of the built in default SD-Card Reader?
*I think I would be required to first modify Marlin and then flash the motherboard firmware? Then perhaps be able to connect another SD-Card reader to the motherboard via SPI or alternative e.g wires to the respective pins on the reverse of the board?*
Could somebody kindly point me in the right direction?
I would appreciate some guidance if this indeed possible?<issue_comment>username_1: "Completely" is always relative, but for water at the pressures involved it's probably achievable. Normally you need some sort of *gasket* (material that can bend/compress to slight imperfections in the mating surfaces), and a means of holding the two surfaces tight against the gasket, to get such a seal.
With 3D printing, it's plausible that the print itself could be sufficiently non-rigid to achieve this, if you have a way of keeping the lid and box pressed tightly against each other - bolts through the lid, clips around the edges, etc. But it's unlikely to work well.
I would either print I suitable gasket in TPU, or cut one from some suitable material if you don't have the capability to print with TPU. Either way you still need to design your box and lid so that they're pressed tightly against the gasket.
One possible frame challenge would be doing a round box instead, with a circular threaded lid. It's likely that you could achieve a decent seal for your purposes without any gasket just by tightening the threads, and if not, you still have a really good setup for use with an added gasket.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this sounds obvious, but given the box has holes in the top – does it only need to be watertight when it's the right way up? If not, you could just do something like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXft9.jpg)
Assuming that won't work, I think a really good seal would be hard with just something like PLA, because the printing texture alone means there will always be tiny gaps between the mating surfaces. In some cases, those grooves will actually act as capillaries (if you've ever tried to use a sharpie marker on a print, you can imagine what I mean).
If the lid fits snugly, then just lining it with something like plumber's thread tape would probably do a good job.
If it needs to work straight out of the printer, then I would try something like this (obviously I've exaggerated the detail):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P5Fuc.jpg)
The idea being something like the plastic seal you see on some types of refrigerator door, which has a thin wall with a free edge that allows it to flex.
NB in all these cases, sharp corners will cause problems – it will be easier to get a seal if you put a radius (say, 5mm) on the vertical edges of the box.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/10/29 | 1,904 | 7,673 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to build a DIY 3D printer for myself. I've been exploring many different styles of printers and found this type of printer that has a fixed bed that stays fixed in one place and the whole gantry moves which includes all axes.
* Why is this so rare?
* Are there flaws in this design?
* Will print quality be affected by using this approach?
Check out this video for reference and skip to 10:50:<issue_comment>username_1: >
> Why is this so rare?
>
>
>
Such kind of printers usually harder to assembles, calibrate, and maintain because 3 axes machine is a bit more complex than 2 axes. For instance, it's can be tricky to move an entire extruder among all 3 axis and some of such printer's designs may require even dedicated exruder's design like Bowden Extruders.
>
> Are there flaws in this design?
>
>
>
The key disadvantage of such kind designs is complexity with moving of an extruder among all 3 axes. Moving platform by at least one axis simplifies that.
>
> Will print quality be affected by using this approach?
>
>
>
It depends on the exact printer's design, so, potentially you can have issues with ease of assembling and maintenance due to more complicated construction and as a consequence higher risk of low printing quality due design, assembly or configuration mistakes.
On the other hand, if you already have some device with precise enough 3 axis machine, like CNC milling machine, you can upgrade it to 3D printer by installing an extruder, however, it would also require update of software and, probably, electronics.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Why is this so rare?
>
>
>
This is rare because machine designers basically copy the designs that work, without trying to innovate too much. As a result of this, [Adrian Bowyer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adrian_Bowyer)'s original [RepRap](https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap) design (a travelling type) is currently the most prominent desktop 3D printer design around.
>
> Are there flaws in this design?
>
>
>
There aren't any flaws in the concept for a static bed, after all, it is just a design concept; there are advantages and disadvantages for each type (static, floating and travelling).
>
> Will print quality be affected by using this approach?
>
>
>
The individual implementations will have varying levels of success. Certain designs provide more quality than most due to the rigidity of the frame that is required (e.g. CoreXY) which in turn provides better print quality. Any printer design can produce a good print quality when the machine is well designed and well maintained.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: As a frame challenge, they kind of are. It's just that the optimal, and in some sense only reasonable, design for a fixed build platform that doesn't move on any axis is the [delta robot geometry](https://reprap.org/wiki/Delta). This design is not the most popular, but it's far from obscure - there are lots of cheap entry-level delta printers available as well as higher-end ones.
What makes delta optimal? Keeping a single gantry (like the Ender 3 has) square with a fixed bed height is hard enough; it requires a very rigid frame and perfect rails/rods. If you want to have a multi-axis motion system over a completely fixed bed, you have a whole extra dimension in which it can be non-square. Mechanically (at least for a plain cartesian configuration) it's like having a gantry that moves between two other gantries, each of which already has concerns about remaining square, and the resulting system might not even end up being planar.
The delta configuration avoids this by not having a 2-axis motion system that's constrained to a particular movable Z height relative to the bed, but instead calibrating the transformation between a constrained motion system with free degrees of freedom and normal cartesian coordinates. Any error can just get calibrated out.
On top of that, delta has an extremely low toolhead mass, allowing extreme speeds and accelerations.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: Within the realm of Cartesian machines (eg having orthogonal X, Y, Z axis) consider the sort of design you do see: the Ultimaker-like X-Y stage over a build platform which can drop.
The question is then, why drop the build rather than raise the mechanism?
Likely the reason is mechanical simplicity. The X-Y gantry is the part that moves around quickly and may vibrate. It's also the part that is rather complex and has lots of electrical cables. Making that fixed in the housing is generally a simplicity. In contrast, the built object in a typical consumer printer has lower mass, and the build platform only moves slowly so variation in dynamics from its increasing mass isn't really an issue (increasing build mass typically isn't even really taken into account in designs where the build rides on a rapidly moving Y axis either).
You might ask, what would a machine like this look like if instead of dropping the build you raised the mechanism?
It turns out such a thing does exist, in the form of a clever hack where you run a linear rail up the wall of your hackerspace, mount your entire Ultimaker-style printer on it (less build platform and bottom panel), and tap out the Z control signals such that the printer climbs itself up the wall leaving some towering sort of build on a fixed platform below. Conceivably if you wanted to start there you could also saw off all but the top third or so of the cabinet to leave the X-Y gantry with some rigid frame. But it's a bigger, more expensive product that doesn't work simply by lifting it out out of the shipping box. Apart from very unusual or "proof of concept" builds, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
The thing about the 3d printer realm is that you're free to try anything you like. Some ideas work. Some ideas don't. Some that go a little bit against orthodox mechanical design as taught in Mech E. departments turn out to work a bit better than they should fairly be expected to, and make it into products. But generally what is on the market is what has proven to present a good balance between cost and utility.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: Now that I learned the truth about supporting the XY gantry, I can answer this. No, **it’s not about complexity**, it’s about stability. There’s nothing complex about 3-axis movement. However, **moving the gantry has more requirement** than moving the bed, and this additional requirement is the reason why many implementations stick to moving the bed instead.
Why moving the bed instead is easier
====================================
The XY gantry moves around quickly, horizontally. Which means that it *must* be supported by at least 4 points of supports forming a square, otherwise, it’ll wobble. Yes, 3 points define a plane, yet the XY gantry cannot be stably supported with just 3 points, which is why this is challenging. [Synchronizing the movements of those four supports is not as easy](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10417/37830) as linking them all together with a single belt. This introduces another challenge. To do this correctly, typically, it requires multiple motors for the Z axis (e.g. Voron 2.4 has four Z-axis motors.). And even with 4 points of supports, they can still fail to stably support the rapidly-horizontally-moving gantry.
On the other hand, the stuff on the bed does not move around. The weight does not move around. Meaning, the bed is absolutely fine with less than 4 supporting points (e.g. 1, 2, or 3 leadscrews).
Now you should see why moving the bed is considered as easier and more stable.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/01 | 506 | 1,845 | <issue_start>username_0: I am attempting to make my Ender 3 Pro print significantly faster than it is intended it I fear.
I hear a clicking noise coming from the extruder above 130 mm/s in Cura when it is going in long straight lines (I think my acceleration settings prevent it on shorter lines). I have seen this before when the bed is too close to the nozzle but I have auto bed leveling now and it is happening on all layers.
I have a standard extruder + Bowden tube setup. What can I do to make things go faster? I am less concerned about the quality of the print and more concerned about the speed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sof1U.jpg "Front View")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zta0M.jpg "Top View")<issue_comment>username_1: I am still somewhat of a noob, but I have heard that your problem may be because the extruder is not getting the filament out fast enough. You are trying to extrude filament before it is sufficiently fluid. Try increasing your hotend temperature by 5 degrees.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You're likely hitting the thermal limit of your hot end.
The standard Creality hotend used in your printers maxes out at around 8-12 mm³/s.
To calculate your current volumetric speed, you can simply calculate
`speed * layer height * extrusion width`
With an 0.45 mm extrusion width and 0.2 mm layer heights, printing at 130 mm/s would put you at around 11,7 mm³/s - very high for the standard hot end.
Increasing temperatures as suggested in the other answer will help, but might reduce print quality on other layers / intricate structures.
The "proper" solution would be a Volcano or SuperVolcano hot end, or any of the other "high flow" alternatives.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/05 | 348 | 1,288 | <issue_start>username_0: I am running an Ender 3 pro with an Octoprint connected. I accidentally set the print speed too slow in Cura and the print will take very long. Is there a Marlin command I can issue to the printer to speed it up without stopping the print?<issue_comment>username_1: yes
===
Print speed is a setting that can be altered by just turning the click-wheel of the Ender 3. You don't need to push it to gain access to menus. A turn to the right does increase the speed, left lowers it. It is applied only some moments after
stopping the turning - then the firmware does inject a `M220` command as the next line. This means the current running movement is ended with the last set speed, the new speed is set and the following command will be done with the new speed.
As username_2 correctly states, one can also send a `M220` command to the printer via a terminal, but then you need to have one set up *before* the print starts, as plugging in a terminal will **reset** your printer and abort the print!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use the [`M220`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M220.html) g-code like
`M220 S200`
to speed up your print speed to 200%.
You can simply enter this g-code command in OctoPrints "Terminal" tab at any time.
Upvotes: 3 |
2020/11/07 | 672 | 2,481 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to port Marlin to my Qidi Tech 1 printer which previously ran Sailfish 7.8. Everything worked fine on the old board, including the temperature sensors.
All cables except for power, LCD, and USB (for flashing) are disconnected. I am still very early on in testing and have yet to plug anything else in.
When uploading Marlin to the board, at first startup I received the following error:
```
Err: MAXTEMP: E1
PRINTER HALTED
Please Reset
```
There may be a problem with my configuration. So I commented out all of the thermal runaway protection options since the bed and extruders aren't yet connected:
```
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER
```
I rebuilt, flashed, reset, and the printer is still telling me that E1 is at MAXTEMP.
Why am I still getting this thermal protection message?
I cleared the EEPROM from the LCD menu in Sailfish before flashing.
This board uses an ATmega2560 and I'm using the default fuses (E:FD, H:D8, L:FF, LOCK:CF).<issue_comment>username_1: #define THERMAL\_PROTECTION\_HOTENDS is for thermal runaway. When the temperature "should" be climbing or falling at a predicable rate, or holding steady once at running temp.
#define HEATER\_0\_MAXTEMP defines the maximum temperature Marlin will allow the extruder to get to before initiating a shutdown. This is ALWAYS active for an active extruder (E0) This setting is what will throw MAXTEMP if it is exceeded.
MAXTEMP error when there is no heat on is usually from a short in the thermistor cable.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: `MAXTEMP` and `MINTEMP` are **not** part of the [Thermal Runaway Protection](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection), but separate, equally needed safety nets: Mintemp is meant to make sure that the printer does not try to run cold, Maxtemp is the operational limit of your printer - if the machine tries to go hotter, the firmware denies and shuts down. Maxtemp is usually set to about 235 °C for a lined hotend.
A defective thermosensor can trigger Mintemp and Maxtemp errors by virtue of either shorting or by having no connectivity. The same behavior is exploited in a simple test if the triggers are set: disconnect the leads for unlimited resistance that the board interprets as an absurd high temperature, then short the leads, as 0 Ohm registers as an insanely low temperature.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/07 | 1,190 | 4,714 | <issue_start>username_0: Assuming a Cartesian printer with a belt and smooth rod design in which one axis moves another (i.e. the X-axis rails 'sit' on the Y-axis rails), what are the main considerations in sizing the rods and belts? For example, given a base design using 8 mm diameter rods and 6 mm belts (assume these are the limiting factors of the printer and that the frame, etc. can handle whatever you throw at it), what is roughly the maximum load, print speed and build size that this should be expected to support? If you were to increase the rod diameters to 10 mm or even 12 mm on one or both axes (assume the steppers could handle the increased load), what would the increased rigidity buy you in terms of maximum speed and/or build size and would 6 mm belts still be appropriate? Ballpark calculations or rules of thumb are fine as I understand the variables are likely not trivial and am looking more for a rough range of guidance to understand the trade-offs involved.<issue_comment>username_1: 8 mm rods and 6 mm GT2 belts are generally accepted as a good tradeoff between price and performance, an exact calculation is possible but might not be very relevant if another part is flexing. Also, generally speaking, the smaller the part the sooner it will wear out of specification. Thus your service interval might be higher compared to an over-engineered printer.
In short, it depends on what your goal is, if you desire low maintenance and accurate machine, you might be better off with heavier gauge parts. Obviously, this will also affect the speed of printing.
A 6 mm GT2 belt might have a higher stretch factor compared to a 10 mm belt, but can be mitigated by adjusting the acceleration. In addition, a 10 mm belt has a larger pulley reducing the number of steps per mm, lowering precision. As such you might be better of using two 6 mm belts.
Increased rod size for the print bed will not affect printing speed much but might help with accuracy since the bending modulus is lower. Play around with the calculators below to get an idea of the force your beam will have to withstand. That said, there are a lot of other factors that will flex under load, for example, the bed leveling springs. You can replace them with solid spacers, but that might warp the bed when it heats up.
<https://www.engineering.com/calculators/beams.htm>
<https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration>
To conclude, I would use the calculators to figure out if the 8 mm rods are within tolerance for the intended speeds and load, but don't forget to look at the overall picture. The quality of parts you choose is one such thing.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The 3D printing revolution started out with the idea/community project to build self-replicating machines:
>
> RepRap was the first of the low-cost 3D printers, and the RepRap Project started the open-source 3D printer revolution. It has become the most widely-used 3D printer among the global members of the Maker Community.
> *(From RepRap.org)*
>
>
>
The main aspects for this project was to build self-replicating machines from cheap and "simple" available materials and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone. The rod solution is a simple and affordable solution for linear motion with fair tolerances.
As far as the rigidity of the X carriage, rods aren't the best solution, increasing rod diameter will surely increase the stiffness, but it will be smaller than a design that uses a (quality) linear rail, these are much stiffer. Note that instead of steel, carbon rods can be used, these are stiff and light and reduce the weight of the carriage, allowing for higher acceleration and speed. The solution of using rods is mainly based on availability and being a cheap solution.
Do note that rods flex much more than linear rails, even when you increase the diameter, this will limit the length of the X-axis.
[From all3Dp](https://m.all3dp.com/2/linear-rail-3d-printer-really-better-or-just-a-hype/):
>
> Any decent rail will have far less give. In terms of 3D printing, this leads to greatly reduced backlash and ringing artifacts, yielding cleaner print surfaces and edges.
>
>
>
Belts allow the rotational motion to be transferred into a linear motion. Belt width depends on the force (carriage weight) you need to move. Same as for rods, an increased height will allow for a larger load to be driven/moved, but for a fixed load, the increasing height allows for less stretch and thus less printing defects. Note the different [types of belts](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6714) are available, all having their own stiffness and load bearing capacity.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/09 | 1,067 | 4,055 | <issue_start>username_0: My 3D prints shift along the Y-axis on my Ender 3 3D printer. I don't know what to do. My Y-axis belt is tight, So I don't think that is the problem...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVtPS.png "Y-axis layer shifting")<issue_comment>username_1: 8 mm rods and 6 mm GT2 belts are generally accepted as a good tradeoff between price and performance, an exact calculation is possible but might not be very relevant if another part is flexing. Also, generally speaking, the smaller the part the sooner it will wear out of specification. Thus your service interval might be higher compared to an over-engineered printer.
In short, it depends on what your goal is, if you desire low maintenance and accurate machine, you might be better off with heavier gauge parts. Obviously, this will also affect the speed of printing.
A 6 mm GT2 belt might have a higher stretch factor compared to a 10 mm belt, but can be mitigated by adjusting the acceleration. In addition, a 10 mm belt has a larger pulley reducing the number of steps per mm, lowering precision. As such you might be better of using two 6 mm belts.
Increased rod size for the print bed will not affect printing speed much but might help with accuracy since the bending modulus is lower. Play around with the calculators below to get an idea of the force your beam will have to withstand. That said, there are a lot of other factors that will flex under load, for example, the bed leveling springs. You can replace them with solid spacers, but that might warp the bed when it heats up.
<https://www.engineering.com/calculators/beams.htm>
<https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/acceleration>
To conclude, I would use the calculators to figure out if the 8 mm rods are within tolerance for the intended speeds and load, but don't forget to look at the overall picture. The quality of parts you choose is one such thing.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The 3D printing revolution started out with the idea/community project to build self-replicating machines:
>
> RepRap was the first of the low-cost 3D printers, and the RepRap Project started the open-source 3D printer revolution. It has become the most widely-used 3D printer among the global members of the Maker Community.
> *(From RepRap.org)*
>
>
>
The main aspects for this project was to build self-replicating machines from cheap and "simple" available materials and making them freely available for the benefit of everyone. The rod solution is a simple and affordable solution for linear motion with fair tolerances.
As far as the rigidity of the X carriage, rods aren't the best solution, increasing rod diameter will surely increase the stiffness, but it will be smaller than a design that uses a (quality) linear rail, these are much stiffer. Note that instead of steel, carbon rods can be used, these are stiff and light and reduce the weight of the carriage, allowing for higher acceleration and speed. The solution of using rods is mainly based on availability and being a cheap solution.
Do note that rods flex much more than linear rails, even when you increase the diameter, this will limit the length of the X-axis.
[From all3Dp](https://m.all3dp.com/2/linear-rail-3d-printer-really-better-or-just-a-hype/):
>
> Any decent rail will have far less give. In terms of 3D printing, this leads to greatly reduced backlash and ringing artifacts, yielding cleaner print surfaces and edges.
>
>
>
Belts allow the rotational motion to be transferred into a linear motion. Belt width depends on the force (carriage weight) you need to move. Same as for rods, an increased height will allow for a larger load to be driven/moved, but for a fixed load, the increasing height allows for less stretch and thus less printing defects. Note the different [types of belts](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6714) are available, all having their own stiffness and load bearing capacity.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/10 | 1,252 | 4,333 | <issue_start>username_0: For my Ender 3 Pro I bought this touch sensor set [Chinese clone BLTouch set](https://tr.aliexpress.com/item/4001209045993.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68ea4c4d3CjwfW) and changed the printer's firmware to the latest TH3D firmware (first I tried with Creality's original BLTouch firmware but after 4 hours, I never managed to set a correct Z offset, I believe there is a bug or this BLTouch clone isn't compatible with Creality firmware).
After installing TH3D, found the right Z offset, when I print items like [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3476490) which stays at the center everything just perfect it sticks well, no strings, strong lines.
But if I try to print something [like this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2973856) which is using almost all the printing table from corner to corner (I need to rotate the print 45° to fit onto the build platform), it's good on center or near to center but not sticking on the corners and first lines are sticking to nozzle (because at the far corners, the nozzle is too far or too close) and makes a mess.
I powered off the printer and adjusted the good old way (with a paper) and re-setted the Z offset accordingly but the result is the same.
According to my research some peoples advised you need to add `G29` after `G28` to your G-code to get proper solution, I added the code in Cura. When I try adding `G29`, the printer starts leveling after starting printing, but the "not sticking problem at the corners" still continues.
I tried with both magnetic bed & glass bed, but nothing helped. I was using 200 °C for the nozzle and 60nbsp;°C for the bed, printing speed is 50nbsp;mm/s with Standart quality 0.2nbsp;mm, retraction enabled, mostly using 10nbsp;% infill on my models.
I thougt maybe filament causes this problem, changed filament to another roll but not helped, I also have an Ender 3 V2 (no BLTouch) and tried same model, same filament, same settings on V2 printed perfectly.
This is how my bed looks like according to OctoPrint bed visualizer plugin;
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8YQH.png)
I've watched many tutorial videos and some said you need to adjust your bed with spirit level to make sure it's flat, I even did that and it is just perfectly flat.
I've installed the BLTouch clone 1 week ago and I'm struggling with this problem since then, I believe I'm missing something very obvious or making a realy simple mistake because many people use touch sensors and they are all happy with auto bed leveling.<issue_comment>username_1: I would suggest you read [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/jdd2nf/for_some_reason_my_bltouch_isnt_working_quite_as/g9amvfn/?context=3), even tho it's a different mainboard it may help.
Next to that you should level the bed the old fashion way first with a paper on the 4 outer corners, it is essential that you do this because ABL can only compensate so much when printing. After that set the Z-offset using a paper and run some bed adhesion test prints and use babysteps.
Level and probe your bed with it being heated up to 60 °C for PLA and 80 °C for PETG, the thermal expansion of the bed can easily mess up the probe data you already have!
Also make sure your ABL functions as Z-endstop; it solved all the issues for me.
---
*If you ever want to upgrade your mainboard for some reason I can highly recommend the SKR mini E3 V2 it has great support for additional sensors.*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Following [Nathan's](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14765/5740) answer, I've solved my problem with Nathan's suggestions and the method in [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8ouBPnRV4s&ab_channel=cheule).
What I did?
1. Flashed Creality's original BLTouch firmware to printer
2. Heated up bed to 60 °C
3. Leveled bed the old fashion way first, but with slight resistance (you don't have to level perfectly)
4. Followed the youtube method to find proper Z offset
5. Opened Cura, Settings->Printer->Manage Printers: and added `G29; ABL` after `G28`
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpOtR.png)
Voilâ, now your printer prints perfectly! Enjoying the relieving after 1 week of struggling.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/10 | 949 | 3,926 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for a methodology to easily measure/evaluate Z positioning accuracy, using equipment on hand or easily obtainable such as a high-precision digital caliper. In particular I want to be able to evaluate whether steps (actual motor steps, or some other chosen unit of increment) are uniformly the nominal step height, or whether some are larger than others, and if so whether the irregularity is reproducible. Has anyone worked out a way to attach a caliper or equivalent measurement device sufficiently rigidly to both a fixed point and a moving-in-Z point (e.g. the bed and the gantry on a typical cartesian machine) that the magnitude of individual steps can be read off? Or maybe a high precision laser range finder/interferometer solution is more appropriate, but I'm not sure about cost/availability.
I ask this in the context of recurring concerns about a common overconstained Z axis design (Ender 3 and nearly everything else with V rollers), but this question is intended to be about measuring not mitigations/fixes.
I'd also be interested in opinions on the necessary measurement precision for this measurement to be meaningful. Almost surely errors as small as 5% of the layer height will lead to some visual surface inconsistency, XY dimensional accuracy problems, and weak points for part to break at, which you'd need 10 micro resolution for 0.2 mm layers to see, but I suspect the reality is much worse for lots of printers and even 20 micron resolution or worse might aid in making serious improvements.<issue_comment>username_1: What you ask is probably not easily doable: you want to measure distances with no more than 1 micron error!
1 micron because assuming 2 mm leadscrew pitch and full steps only, you have 100 full steps per mm (10 microns per step). With 10% error at most you need to measure 1 micron.
What you can do is avoiding measuring distances and rather measure angles to verify that angles are at least equally spaced.
Place a mirror on the shaft of the stepper motor and align a laser and a paper sheet so that the laser reflects on the mirror and reaches a known position on the paper.
Then mark the position of the spot after each step and, with trigonometry, you can calculate the real angle movement per step.
You will need to repeat the alignment every time the laser gets outside the surface of the paper, but you can also use a wall if you prefer. In any case, to cover 360° you need at least 200 measurements...
And obviously take into account measurement errors.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In the world of hobbyist milling machines, a DRO accessory is extremely valuable for improving work flow and accuracy of project builds. The Digital Read Out devices run the gamut from affordable to astonishingly expensive and cover one, two and three axis readouts.
For single axis purposes, some hobbyists will simply find a means to attach a digital caliper, as you've suggested, to the machine with appropriately fabricated brackets. That's one option. For a few dollars more, there are off-the-shelf digital read-outs, such as this one from [Amazon](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01G4FQI64):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VToWb.png)
Six, twelve and twenty-four inch travel options are available with the pictured six inch unit priced at US$39.95, a reasonable figure for 0.01 mm accuracy.
One can purchase pricier models with higher resolution if required.
Brackets included with the device may not fit well to your application and may require modification.
Some DRO devices, such as the one installed on my mini-mill, use physical contact (gears) to read the position information, which means friction and loading of your printer. Other models use micro-engraved glass scales and have minimal friction, but will likely be a bit more expensive.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/10 | 890 | 3,114 | <issue_start>username_0: I bricked my <NAME>'s controller board, and I've decided to just replace it rather than unbrick it because they are relatively cheap. I recently bought a new MKS GEN L v1.0 board, but I've been unable to flash new firmware onto it. Every time I go to upload the firmware, I get an error just as it begins to upload, saying:
```
"failed to send command to serial port does not exist or is not connected"
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.
```
avrdude: stk500v2\_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
```
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
```
Any ideas of what the issue could be? I've tried both the USB ports on my computer and using a USB 2.0 hub (I believe my computer ports are both USB 3.0). I've also made sure that I had the correct port selected in Marlin (1.1.8.13).
I also think that its worth mentioning that my bricked board and new board seem to appear differently in the device manager
Bricked:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex7ZK.png)
While my new board appears as this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWYoP.png)
The new board also seems to "cut-out" when I first connect it to my computer as well. In the device manager, my computer will indicate that an unknown device is connected, then it will quickly disconnect and disappear, only to reconnect and reappear as pictured above.
Do you guys think there is a hardware issue with the motherboard? Thanks for your help, this is giving me quite the headache!<issue_comment>username_1: Your new board may have a counterfeit FT232R USB-to-serial interface chip, and the Windows update channel has installed hobbled FTDI drivers that won't work with counterfeit chips. The use of counterfeit FT232R chips is very common with budget 3D printer controllers, and FTDI are trying to discourage their use. Because of this, a lot of manufacturers have switched to using the CH340 chip, which does not suffer from this problem, and it looks like your old board used a CH340 chip. Try deleting the device and its drivers, and then installing the Windows setup executable from the following website:
<https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm>
The 2.12.28 drivers will work with counterfeit chips.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Your motherboard is not an MKS GEN L v1.0, it's a [MKS SGEN L](https://github.com/makerbase-mks/Datasheet/blob/master/English%20datasheet/MKS%20SGen%20Datasheet.pdf) - unfortunately, a very very naming scheme.
Your board is actually a **32-bit board**, and must therefore be flashed with Marlin 2.0, built for the 32-bit board.
The firmware is then updated by placing it on the SD card and restarting the board, as explained in the [documentation for Marlin here](https://marlinfw.org/docs/basics/install_platformio_vscode.html)
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/12 | 1,120 | 4,267 | <issue_start>username_0: What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?
PETG is known for sticking well to the bed; so well that it does not need a heated bed. If it weren’t for printing other materials, I would try printing directly on the glass bed instead of a build surface. However, the build surface may help protect the glass from excessive force.
To reduce how strong the PETG sticks to the build surface I’ve reduced the bed temperature to 35 °C. It is easier to remove the skirt and brim by heating the bed up to 90 °C, so that the PETG is soft. However, if one tries to remove the printed object at 90 °C, the printed object is like to distort and ruin.
I did sharpen the putty knife on the top side only. This helps, but it still takes excessive time to remove the print job and clear the bed. The excessive force on the bed from the putty knife seems to increase the need to level the bed. It also seems to affect the flatness of the build surface.
I’m looking for techniques to make it easier and less time consuming to remove the PETG print from the bed.
P.S. Additions after input from answers.
1. Added keeping the initial Z-height high enough to keep adhesion to the bed from being too high. This resolved the adhesion to the bed issue, but seemed to make adhesion between layers worse.
2. Set hot end to 230°C for first layer, then increased hot end temperature to 250°C for better adhesion between layers.<issue_comment>username_1: Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close. With the bed leveled properly - using feeler gauges or test prints and a sub-0.1-mm-precision caliper - I have no trouble taking PETG prints off a buildtak-clone bed. Glass should be easier.
If you already have PETG stuck to a build surface you care about and don't want to risk destroying it, try heat, or alternating heat and cold.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints. However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few square inches) with the print bed, there will be problems getting the print off. So I still use painter's tape (in case I have to rip the print off with force) and glue sticks (so that I don't often need to) on my aluminum print bed as I've found that makes it much easier to deal with without damaging either the bed or the print.
You can also try dialing back the heated bed temperature a bit (I think I've got mine set to 70-75 °C for PETG) but that also doesn't eliminate the issue with larger prints. Also, if I lowered it too much I had problems with first layer adhesion on any size print.
I also have a glass plate that I use for ABS, which I don't use with PETG. I've read too many accounts of it sticking too well to glass as well (to the point of the plate being destroyed) and didn't want to try using the amount of force on it that I sometimes have to when removing a PETG print. I also considered trying BuildTak but read accounts of similar issues with it and PETG. So I stayed with what's been working for me: tape and glue sticks.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets directly in your slicing software (AFAIK, Cura needs an extra plugin for it, Prusa Slicer has it built-in).
If you have done everything correctly, the PETG model should come out almost by itself just by letting the bed to cool down naturally to 40ºC approx. Be patient.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Spraying Windex (the original formula blue w/ammonia - not the multisurface, and not the vinegar based) on the build plate and allowing it to dry. I still print PETG on a heated bed, and prints come right off (textured) PEI plate when cooled. Even the skirt lifts right off.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/13 | 798 | 3,045 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to print something that might take 15 hours. I don't want to risk my printer so if I print for 15 hours, what is the worst that can happen? So far, I haven't printed anything for more than 5 hours.<issue_comment>username_1: Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close. With the bed leveled properly - using feeler gauges or test prints and a sub-0.1-mm-precision caliper - I have no trouble taking PETG prints off a buildtak-clone bed. Glass should be easier.
If you already have PETG stuck to a build surface you care about and don't want to risk destroying it, try heat, or alternating heat and cold.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints. However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few square inches) with the print bed, there will be problems getting the print off. So I still use painter's tape (in case I have to rip the print off with force) and glue sticks (so that I don't often need to) on my aluminum print bed as I've found that makes it much easier to deal with without damaging either the bed or the print.
You can also try dialing back the heated bed temperature a bit (I think I've got mine set to 70-75 °C for PETG) but that also doesn't eliminate the issue with larger prints. Also, if I lowered it too much I had problems with first layer adhesion on any size print.
I also have a glass plate that I use for ABS, which I don't use with PETG. I've read too many accounts of it sticking too well to glass as well (to the point of the plate being destroyed) and didn't want to try using the amount of force on it that I sometimes have to when removing a PETG print. I also considered trying BuildTak but read accounts of similar issues with it and PETG. So I stayed with what's been working for me: tape and glue sticks.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets directly in your slicing software (AFAIK, Cura needs an extra plugin for it, Prusa Slicer has it built-in).
If you have done everything correctly, the PETG model should come out almost by itself just by letting the bed to cool down naturally to 40ºC approx. Be patient.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Spraying Windex (the original formula blue w/ammonia - not the multisurface, and not the vinegar based) on the build plate and allowing it to dry. I still print PETG on a heated bed, and prints come right off (textured) PEI plate when cooled. Even the skirt lifts right off.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/14 | 1,206 | 4,313 | <issue_start>username_0: I had a new Extruder tip on my Ender 3 3D printer. the tip looked like the left tip in the below image. After I have been using it for about 5 months, the tip got dull/flat, like the tip on the right in the below image.
The only filament I have used is a spool of PLA (from hatchbox) and a spool of PETG (from sain-smart)
About the Filament
------------------
From the time that I replaced the tip, to now, i have only used my 1 spool of [PLA filament](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00J0ECR5I).
I don't believe it has any carbon-fiber in it, the only other things I can think of, are that the filament has a tough time sticking to the bed, so I have to print pretty close to the bed.
**Image of my 3D prints using my PLA filament**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntcad.jpg)
**Image of my PLA filament**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3PGS.jpg)
---
I don't 3D print a terribly large amount, Is it normal to have to be replacing the pen this often?
How do I prevent my extruder tip from getting dull so soon? Is there a way to prevent the pen tip from getting dull at all?
**Actual Images:** (Sorry for all the edits, I’m trying to add the images on my phone and it’s not working)
<issue_comment>username_1: Correctly level your bed. Seriously, that's the answer. PETG does stick well, but it only gets difficult to remove if you're smashing the first layer against the bed with a nozzle that's way too close. With the bed leveled properly - using feeler gauges or test prints and a sub-0.1-mm-precision caliper - I have no trouble taking PETG prints off a buildtak-clone bed. Glass should be easier.
If you already have PETG stuck to a build surface you care about and don't want to risk destroying it, try heat, or alternating heat and cold.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Playing around with the nozzle height will help: back it off until just before you have first layer adhesion issues. Don't jam the filament into the bed as you might for ABS. This helps with small prints. However, my experience has been that if you have a large enough continuous contact area (i.e. more than a few square inches) with the print bed, there will be problems getting the print off. So I still use painter's tape (in case I have to rip the print off with force) and glue sticks (so that I don't often need to) on my aluminum print bed as I've found that makes it much easier to deal with without damaging either the bed or the print.
You can also try dialing back the heated bed temperature a bit (I think I've got mine set to 70-75 °C for PETG) but that also doesn't eliminate the issue with larger prints. Also, if I lowered it too much I had problems with first layer adhesion on any size print.
I also have a glass plate that I use for ABS, which I don't use with PETG. I've read too many accounts of it sticking too well to glass as well (to the point of the plate being destroyed) and didn't want to try using the amount of force on it that I sometimes have to when removing a PETG print. I also considered trying BuildTak but read accounts of similar issues with it and PETG. So I stayed with what's been working for me: tape and glue sticks.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Try to lift the nozzle more than you'd do even for PLA. PETG sticks really well to the heated bed. If your bed is already well leveled you can adjust the nozzle position in Z by using Z offsets directly in your slicing software (AFAIK, Cura needs an extra plugin for it, Prusa Slicer has it built-in).
If you have done everything correctly, the PETG model should come out almost by itself just by letting the bed to cool down naturally to 40ºC approx. Be patient.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Spraying Windex (the original formula blue w/ammonia - not the multisurface, and not the vinegar based) on the build plate and allowing it to dry. I still print PETG on a heated bed, and prints come right off (textured) PEI plate when cooled. Even the skirt lifts right off.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/15 | 629 | 2,480 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to make a G-code script for Cura to clean the nozzle every Xth layer or every one minute?
With Cura there is only start and end G-code, so there is no "layer change" G-code like another slicer (e.g. Ideamaker).
Where should I write the code?
How can I define the Layer number?<issue_comment>username_1: There are extensions for Cura that can do almost what you want to do for you (with respect to the layer or height).
You need to add post-processing scripts to the Cura slicer. You do that from the top menu options `Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code` and then add the option of choice.
E.g. for an event at every layer change you should use script "*Insert at layer change*" and fill out the G-code you want to perform.
There are options to write your own extension, but that would require some software development skills.
Optionally, you could use the "ChangeAtZ" script to add absurd temperature changes of the extruder to post process that later by a simple e.g. Python script (outside Cura) to replace those actions with the cleaning actions you want to perform. But, when you can do that, you could write a script outside Cura to detect the layers (e.g. from the comments or from the layer change command `G1 Zxx`) and insert that right away.
For inserting this on the basis of time would be very difficult, it is difficult to estimate the time printing actions take to then inject such a script.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Cura now has a **setting "Wipe Nozzle Between Layers"**, located in the Experimental settings group. it requires the installation of a wipe brush or wipe surface that is fixed to the x axis at a certain x position and moves with it the y and z directions. You can find suitable 3D printable [nozzle brush holders](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=nozzle%20brush) for most 3D printers.
It does more or less exactly what you are looking for, just that you do not specify nozzle cleaning intervals "every Xth layer or every one minute" as you want but by print volume – see sub-setting "Material Volume Between Wipes". B setting this to a very small value, you can however force a wipe after every single layer, as that is the hardcoded maximum number of wipes that this setting will generate.
For a good article explaining the setting in depth, see "[Cura Wipe Nozzle Between Layers](https://the3dprinterbee.com/cura-wipe-nozzle-between-layers/)" by <NAME>.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/11/20 | 1,312 | 5,160 | <issue_start>username_0: There are lot of advices on the web how to paint the 3D printed objects, but generally they are advices for manual painting and this required special skills, especially if the object is small. My guess is that maybe 3D printer can lay the color layers as well? I am especially interested in the layering of enamel paints (which can be transparent and which can required high temperature heating afterwards). Medieval art has fine examples how detailed enamel art was created on the metal. Maybe something like this can be achieved with 3D printers as well?
If 3D priner with the paint-printing capability is not available generally then what are the prospects when such printer can be available? Maybe there are some early, experimental efforts to create such printer and maybe test devices are available?<issue_comment>username_1: Painting Prints
---------------
Yes, you can paint your models with [enamel paints](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enamel_paint). Actually, most paints will work. You might need to roughen the surface with sandpaper a tiny bit. Note that some spray paints might contain solvents that might soften or melt the prints, so read your ingredients!
### ...not with vitreous enamel
However, you can't use [proper enamel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vitreous_enamel), as that needs to be sintered after the paints have dried, and that will destroy your print unless you have used a metal-printer.
Printing Color
--------------
Now, if you want a printer to print a paste of vitreous enamel, you are looking for a **paste printer**. However, the paint for such a device needs to be very viscous, and the print quality (due to the large nozzle) will be far below what a skilled artisan can achieve. Also, you'd need one paste extruder per color.
Foils?
------
One could possibly work with foils, cutting them on a plotter and then carefully transferring them to the printed object. This would allow much finer details than a paste printer currently is able to create. Such a foil can also be printed upon by special printers - possibly achieving the full spectrum in a single application step.
Alternatively, one would use a "puzzle" of smaller pieces and apply each piece separately. The result might actually be somewhat similar to the *Chromolith* (Colored Stone) stonewares that had been created by Villeroy & Boch starting 1876.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: So, there's not really anything like a 3D painting machine/robot like I think you're looking for, but there are printers that do fine detail with actual paint, usually oils, but not on 3D materials.
I found a [thread](https://studioartist.ning.com/forum/topics/paint-printers-do-they-exist) that talks about canvas printing about 8 years ago, along with a couple of videos that show [current machines](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vj3NKmIKErE) doing [just that](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ri7sa90EVk), but that's still not what I think you're looking for.
There are also [CNC machines](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK0r7PfMUwQ) that print with enamel paints, but these are usually for 2D again, and not very precise, as they are used for lapel pins that have cavities to hole the paint while it dries. I'm sure something like this could be used without the cavities, but you'd have to do a lot of testing to make sure the paint stays put or mixes as you want it.
Just like the oil printers, these enamel printers are likely very large and costly.
Alternatively
-------------
What might work for you is hydrodipping. There's a variety of methods to this, but one company has done a bunch of research on this and can do extremely accurate detail printing to "paint" 3D objects. The below video shows a variety of these hydrodipping techniques, but I've skipped to the most relevant part.
Here's the original video of what I think you're most interested in. It's not 3D printing in the way most of us think, but it's definitely a fantastic outcome.
To explain, if these videos are ever deleted: detailed prints are made of a 3D model to color it exactly the way it needs to be, sometimes using multiple steps and computer positioning to get the object colored/"painted" correctly and seamlessly. One part of the video shows how the software can accurately make straight lines on a human-contoured face mask, while another part shows how a blank, fully 3D cat model can have spots or stripes added in 3 steps with the seams being completely invisible as well as it detailed enough to be mistaken for a real housecat beyond first glance.
As it turns out, you can do (some of) this yourself. After doing some research, I've found that you can actually get blank (instead of pre-printed) films and use an off the shelf printer, as long as it meets certain requirements. (I'm not recommending a site, brand, or anything else, this is just the first/only option I can find. If you do more research, I'm sure there's more options out there.)
<https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-film/>
<https://www.tsautop.com/blank-hydrographic-water-transfer-printing-inkjet-printer-6-color-inks/>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/11/20 | 469 | 1,714 | <issue_start>username_0: I have observed some occasional delamination in horizontal layers of my resin prints — see two examples:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxGPD.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZEoF.png)
What is the cause, and how can this be minimized?<issue_comment>username_1: With the information provided my thought is that your layers are underexposed for their thickness. Each layer is just barely bonding to the layer above it. After being pulled on by layers below eventually one of the layers fails. This is especially likely to happen on a thin part of the print any may need more support if it is followed by wider layers. But I would suggest trying to increase your exposure time first.
option two: it could be your FEP if that has seen too much use it may be time to replace it.
[calibrating a resin 3D printer](https://ameralabs.com/blog/key-things-calibrating-resin-3d-printer/)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: [Besides the options of underexposure or bad FEP film](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14947/8884), there's also the option of the print being in a bad orientation for printing. Often, the quality gets better if you tilt the model some degrees. You do have to clean up some places, but the stresses from pulling free of the FEP get distributed more evenly and are lower, resulting in generally better prints.
Other factors that can impact the print quality is the resin's viscosity: the more viscous, the more likely resin can't flow in enough. Resin's viscosity is antiproportional to the room temperature - the hotter the room, the less viscous the resin.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/11/22 | 428 | 1,656 | <issue_start>username_0: I do not have a clear understanding of what causes resin prints to become brittle. Firstly, it appears excessive cold (in the 40s or even 30s, I am in New England) may be a factor. What else can cause brittleness in resin prints? Is there a difference between resin types?<issue_comment>username_1: With the information provided my thought is that your layers are underexposed for their thickness. Each layer is just barely bonding to the layer above it. After being pulled on by layers below eventually one of the layers fails. This is especially likely to happen on a thin part of the print any may need more support if it is followed by wider layers. But I would suggest trying to increase your exposure time first.
option two: it could be your FEP if that has seen too much use it may be time to replace it.
[calibrating a resin 3D printer](https://ameralabs.com/blog/key-things-calibrating-resin-3d-printer/)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: [Besides the options of underexposure or bad FEP film](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14947/8884), there's also the option of the print being in a bad orientation for printing. Often, the quality gets better if you tilt the model some degrees. You do have to clean up some places, but the stresses from pulling free of the FEP get distributed more evenly and are lower, resulting in generally better prints.
Other factors that can impact the print quality is the resin's viscosity: the more viscous, the more likely resin can't flow in enough. Resin's viscosity is antiproportional to the room temperature - the hotter the room, the less viscous the resin.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/11/24 | 652 | 2,529 | <issue_start>username_0: The plastic glide rail on which my refrigerator vegetable drawer (bin) traveled recently broke.
The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.
I'm thinking about 3D printing a new glide rail and attaching it (somehow) to the existing shelf.
Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?
Note that the glide rail needs to be somehow attached to the shelf at a 90 degree angle. I keep using the word "somehow" because I haven't figured out how to make that magic happen yet.<issue_comment>username_1: This is one of those tricky problems where the form of the repair and the materials that you need have to go hand in hand - you need a way to fix the new rail to the shelf and you need the repair to be strong enough to do it’s job. Perhaps consider screwing the rail to the shelf - cyanoacrylate adhesive is good for 3D prints but doesn’t like low temperatures. Once you know how you’re going to fix the rail, the design requirements will be clearer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?
>
>
>
**Yes.** 3D printed parts can be plenty strong enough to handle the kind of load you're considering. You'll need to create a 3D model of the part you want it a CAD program, which is something that takes some practice if you don't already know how to do it, so it may or may not be easier *for you* than milling the from a plastic blank.
One advantage that 3D printing brings with it is the ability to iterate rapidly on your design: you can model and print the part that you think will work, try it out, adjust your model to incorporate what you learn from the first try, and print new versions until you get it just right. If the existing shelf is broken in some irregular way, for example, you can design a new part that mates tightly with the broken edge of the part you have.
>
> The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.
>
>
>
Perhaps you've already looked, but there are a great many parts suppliers online. If you have the part number, be sure to look beyond just what the manufacturer can supply -- it's very likely that someone out there has the part you need.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/11/25 | 1,065 | 4,170 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a number of fairly large printed pieces. The parts, when assembled, form a very large sword. (The model is this: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060>, and is not mine.) It is about 7' from tip to pommel, and individual pieces are fairly large. The pieces are already printed, so advice to modify the model geometry to add reinforcements at this point is moot.
I have printed the pieces in PLA. I'm not asking for glue recommendations, necessarily, but rather something that could help with adhesion in addition to the glue. I'm concerned that after gluing them together, they won't support their own weight very well. I'm not worried about swinging it, just holding it and hanging it on a wall.
If I was very clever, I would have modified the files to add a through-hole that I would've put a pipe through or something, but I didn't think that far ahead. I could drill holes in the printed pieces, but I don't have a good way to make sure they line up.
So, what is the best way to add some kind of support to help keep the parts from falling apart? Is there some trick I could use to figure out how to line up drill holes?<issue_comment>username_1: **Previous answer assuming not yet printed**:
If you want to drill holes, print smaller guide holes to guide the drill bit. The best glue depends on the material. Printing structures like dovetails makes the connection less dependent on the strength of the glue.
**Answer with the parts already printed**:
The best way to align drilled holes is probably to glue the pieces together first, then drill the holes. Otherwise, you need a method to clamp the pieces together or do precision drilling.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Superglue - aka Cyanoacrylate can do the job quite well if given help.
It depends on two flat and clean surfaces. If your printer has any lifting in corners, glue won't save you. The two parts have to be flat as possible, which may mean sanding with a clean sheet of 120 grit glued to a backing board. Any coarser and it will rip strands out; too fine and it will take forever plus your released plastic micro-particles get smaller.
Also, toothing the plastic print is critical if you're gluing the bed-face to something else. The first layer tends to have an almost glossy surface, and this is hard for the glue to adhere to.
If you can, add "gussets" across the join line, to help give the glue more surface area to stick to.
Avoid using "kicker" because it gives a weaker bond, though it sets faster.
---
Other solvents can help too, but they depend on the plastic you've printed in.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: A stronger joint than glue can be had by welding, albeit uglier and best used in hidden areas. One way to weld is with friction, using a Dremel to spin a piece of filament so fast it heats up and melts with the two plastic pieces you are joining. You tack the pieces together with a couple spot welds, then move along the joint slowly, melting a bead of plastic that is melted into both sides. Like metal welding, penetration is key to strength. You need a straight piece of filament (heat gun works, and rolling it on a flat surface while it is soft), and 3mm is a better size than 1.75mm, if available. It also helps if the joint is a little “V” shaped, so you melt plastic in the crack between the two pieces. Search “filament friction welding” for articles.
You can also weld with some filament and a chisel tip soldering iron with variable temperature (lower the temperature to a little above the filament’s printing temp). Melt the filament into the crack between the parts. Do something to get rid of the fumes if using ABS, etc.
Both work, friction welding might get more penetration into the parts being joined, thus a stronger joint, but they are both a sturdy way to do a butt joint between two printed parts, that would be weak if glued.
The friction welding can also be used to “rivet” overlapping parts, if you dive in and melt the spinning rod through the two parts, then stop the motor and hold it in place while it cools, then snip the end of the rivet off flush.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/11/28 | 1,575 | 4,850 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to subtract a polyhedron from a cube, but it is not working (the cube remains solid). However, I can see the cut-out poly in preview mode (but not after a full render).
**Preview** -- poly cutout shows on the top (and bottom).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk1Z5.png)
**Rendered** -- poly cutout not visible.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cofDh.png)
**Poly Exploded** -- pulled the poly to the right to show its shape.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VILrM.png)
**Code**
```
size = 30;
wall = 3;
wall_x2 = wall * 2;
nubGap = .125;
nubHeight = 8;
nubOffset = wall + nubGap;
xCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;
yCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;
cutoutLowerY = nubHeight + nubGap;
cutoutUpperOffset = nubOffset + wall;
difference() {
cube([size, size, size]);
translate([wall, wall, 0]) {
polyhedron(
points = [
[0, 0, -10],
[xCutoutSize, 0, -10],
[xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, -10],
[0, yCutoutSize, -10],
[0, 0, cutoutLowerY],
[xCutoutSize, 0, cutoutLowerY],
[xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],
[0, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],
[cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size]
],
faces = [
[0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0], // bottom
[0, 1, 4], [1, 4, 5], // side A
[1, 2, 5], [2, 5, 6], // side B
[2, 3, 6], [3, 6, 7], // side C
[3, 0, 7], [0, 7, 4], // side D
[4, 5, 8], [5, 8, 9], // slope A
[5, 6, 9], [6, 9, 10], // slope B
[6, 7, 10], [7, 10, 11], // slope C
[7, 4, 11], [4, 11, 8], // slope D
[8, 9, 10], [10, 11, 8] // top
]
);
};
};
```<issue_comment>username_1: If the polyhedron surface and top surface of the cube are exactly coplanar, which they seem to be, it won't work; OpenSCAD operates numerically rather than analytically and which is "inside" or "outside" the other is subject to numerical instability. Whenever using differences you need to make the object being subtracted extend by at least some small epsilon outside the surfact of the object you're subtracting from.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Usually when there's an overlap in two objects during a difference action, F6 render will resolve the problem. There's something more than that involved here, as reducing the height of the cube creates a non-manifold object from the difference. user R..'s answer has merit but is not going to solve the problem.
Isolating the cube from the code and exporting the result as an STL allows me to determine that the faces are generated in a manner preventing a proper difference action:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEtXM.png)
This image from meshmixer shows the faces have inverted normals. The order of the points are critical when describing a polyhedron. From the wiki page for [OpenSCAD](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/The_OpenSCAD_Language#polyhedron):
>
> It is arbitrary which point you start with, but all faces must have
> points ordered in the same direction . OpenSCAD prefers clockwise when
> looking at each face from outside inward. The back is viewed from the
> back, the bottom from the bottom, etc. Another way to remember this
> ordering requirement is to use the right-hand rule. Using your
> right-hand, stick your thumb up and curl your fingers as if giving the
> thumbs-up sign, point your thumb into the face, and order the points
> in the direction your fingers curl.
>
>
>
EDIT: I reversed some of the points, haphazardly and luckily picked the correct ones:
```
faces = [
[0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0], // bottom
[4, 1, 0], [1, 4, 5], // side A
[5, 2, 1], [2, 5, 6], // side B
[6, 3, 2], [3, 6, 7], // side C
[7, 0, 3], [0, 7, 4], // side D
[8, 5, 4], [5, 8, 9], // slope A
[9, 6, 5], [6, 9, 10], // slope B
[10, 7, 6], [7, 10, 11], // slope C
[11, 4, 7], [4, 11, 8], // slope D
[10, 9, 8], [8, 11, 10] // top
```
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GWBMo.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/11/29 | 2,150 | 7,446 | <issue_start>username_0: (Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board and Touchscreen, BlTouch)
Hello everybody,
I want to print something for my family but the hotend gets clogged every time in the same part of the print. I tried:
* Different Nozzles
* Different Filaments
* I cleaned every Part
* The E-Steps are set right
* The retraction Setting didn't make a difference
* The Extruder Position is perfect
* I tried different speeds
* Everything else you find on Google with a clogged hot end.
The most odd thing about this is that the problem occurs at the same place every time.
On Flat surfaces are some anomalies, that wasn't there when I had the normal clogged nozzle problems (from: retraction settings, dirty Printer, e-steps false). I think it has something to do with the anomalies.
Another thing I don't get behind are missing layers after the layer change,
even when I don't use retraction at all.
In The Picture from the side you see the Support with the Layer change problem.
After around about Layer 40 there is one Layer missing and the next Layers are not connected anymore.
From the top you see the Surface anomaly I don't know how to describe.
It would be helpful to know what I did wrong. I am sure I did Everything against a clogged Nozzel but I can be Wrong so tips in this direction are Helpful too.
I am quite new to 3D Printing(2 Months) I had the usual clogged Nozzel Problem Solved and It Worked Perfectly. I Tried to Fix It with the same Solutions and Nothing Helped, so I think it is a different problem.
Sry for my bad English I am from Germany.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA9br.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKgpD.jpg)
I have an Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board, Touchscreen and BlTouch which I use together with [insert slicer here]. I print in [PLA/ABS/PETG/Whatever Material] at [Extruder temperature] °C. The print bed is set to [Bed Temperature] °C. I use a print cooling fan at [whatever] %. The layer height I set to 0.[x] mm, the line width [line width/extrusion width] from the 0.[x] mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to [x] mm/s for walls and [x] mm/s for infill. My retraction is [off / [X] mm at [x] mm/s].<issue_comment>username_1: I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.
1. If you are on original hotend and Bowden style extruder, then first try the [hot end PTFE fix](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831)
2. What the picture may show is a temperature too low, especially on these bad layers. Raise the temperature like you have tried (200 °C is good).
3. To avoid prints being knocked off the bed, try brim (it's in bed-adhesion in Cura), most people don't use raft anymore. What brim does is to add addition loops on the first layer of your prints and make it sticks as good as possible.
4. No raft, add brim. Then disable Z-hop, enable combing in Cura.
These steps should be able to mitigate the problem.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I use the older 2018 model of the Ender3, and so far I have had only to replace some consumables and my extruder for an aluminium one, some nozzles, and one time a fresh Bowden, and I am golden.
To me, I see 2 problems:
* You might print too cold. I print PLA at 200 °C, some brands I do print a little hotter.
* You measured your extrusion rate. That is wrong. You need to calculate your steps per millimeter!
Because I don't know your printer, you need to look at how to calculate your proper steps/mm. I assume you have the [Typical NEMA17 motor with a 1.8° per step (=200 Steps per rotation) and 16 Microsteps](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3353/calculating-extruder-motor-steps-for-1-mm):
* $d=2\times r$ diameter of the push-gear = 2\*Radius
* $C=d\times\pi$ Is the Circumference
* $Step = 1.8°$ & $Ms=16$
* $S=\frac {\frac{360°}{Step}\times Ms}C =\frac {200\times Ms}C =\frac {3200}{d\times\pi}$ Steps/mm
For a typical gear of about 10.5 to 11 mm diameter, that gives numbers between 97 and 92.5 steps/mm. Use your calculator to establish the minimum and maximum numbers first by using the top and bottom of the gear. Then you can test for the correct number in between these numbers. Depending on how soft the material is, the place for the effective gear diameter shifts: softer materials are closer to the high steps/mm number, harder ones more to the low steps/mm end.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Conclusion
==========
So I found my mistake: It was the E-Steps I did wrong it over extruded. The best E-Steps per mm are 92 for me. The mistake took place because I took my E-step number from a Video Tutorial about my dual extruder. I found the optimal number by testing out; the formula I got for the E-Steps was in the Video and I think I used it wrong, I'll watch the Video again and look at what I did wrong and I'll write a comment about it. I will test more today to get it perfect but [@username_2](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/14915/8884) was right.
Thank you to everybody for their Time.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5nh7.jpg)
How the problem was diagnosed:
==============================
Did I have a bad Temperature?
-----------------------------
First, I tested all temperatures in the range of 190 to 210 °C, and the best looking is 200-205 °C. After that, I tried a different height for my print head which just resulted in the model not sticking to the bed. So I could rule out bad layer height.
This was made at 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the heat bed:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YFf5a.jpg "This was made with 200 °C, The problematic areas are at the corners and on Flat Surfaces parallel to the Heat bed.")
Is the Cura profile the culprit?
--------------------------------
I made a new printer Profile to find out if I broke it in the settings. I got the same results.
So I tried every Setting in Cura that could have something to do with that, the only thing that helped a little was using 50% Top Surface Flow:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MMcm0.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynXsO.jpg "this Picture is with 50 % Top Surface Flow")
While testing, I saw that the corners are really bad. I think it's because of the print head acceleration. So, I went back and tuned more...
E-Step Configuration Issue Identified:
--------------------------------------
Finally, I revisited the video I saw originally and figured out, it might be the E-steps per mm. I went through trial and error to come to 92 and realized, I had mistakenly inserted a number for a different extruder setup.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: I noticed that on my Ender 3, if the belts aren't tight enough, I have a similar problem, but mostly when I print anything circular.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/29 | 583 | 1,955 | <issue_start>username_0: Given a .SCAD file which contains some modules, how can I execute one of those modules from the command line?
**example.scad**
```
module One() { ... }
module Two() { ... }
```
**render.sh**
```
openscad -q -o one.stl --module One example.scad
```
Note that there is no `--module` option, but that is what I'm attempting to do. The workaround would be to make another .SCAD file e.g. `one.scad` which includes `example.scad`, and simply calls `One();` within and render that file from the shell file. But this is not ideal.<issue_comment>username_1: OpenSCAD doesn't have such an option on the command line, but the general idiom I believe you want to use is have `.scad` source files which are modules include invocations of the module(s) at the top-level controllable by variables you can set on the command line or GUI customizer interface. Any such invocations will be ignored if the file is used (via `use` directive) in another file so they don't hurt its status as a library and make it easier to preview/test. So for example you could have:
```
wantOne = false;
if (wantOne) One();
```
and then set `wantOne` to `true` from the command line.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The `openscad -D` option can actually include arbitrary code, not just variable definitions, so you can include a call to the module. You can even use `/dev/null` on Linux or NUL on Windows as the input file and have 100 % of your code in `-D` statements.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: elaborating on the answer from @r-github-stop-helping-ice, I find the following pattern useful:
###### example.scad
```
module a() { .. }
module b() { .. }
module c() { .. }
module print(item=0) {
if (item==1) a();
if (item==2) b();
if (item==3) c();
}
item = 0;
print(item);
```
###### render.sh
```
#!/bin/bash
for i in {1..3}; do
openscad -D item=${i} -o item_${i}.stl example.scad
done
```
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/11/29 | 450 | 1,896 | <issue_start>username_0: So I got the SKR mini E3 for my Ender 5 after hearing all the positive reviews.
When it arrives I plug everything in, make sure it's secure and test the axis... they all worked correctly.
I then tested auto home... everything worked.
I then tested the heating... everything worked again.
Finally, I go to do a test print-- it heats up and then homes. When it is finished heating, the hot end assembly starts moving slowly until it goes into the corner and contacts the side of the printer. Obviously, I turned it off right away.
Currently, I am uncertain whether it is a firmware issue, a board issue, or something else? If anyone could please help me solve this, that would be greatly appreciated!<issue_comment>username_1: So I found an answer on Reddit when I asked the same question: It actually had to do with the homing -- basically, it was starting at 220, 220 instead of 0,0, which resulted in when the print started for it to head straight into the corner. In order to counter this, I had to change some of the firmware. Everything works now. Thank you for your help!
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: This issue is related to the way Creality has defined the origin of the printer. Usually, the origin of the printer is at the front left when facing the printer. Creality has chosen to set the origin in their default Creality configuration at the back right.
Vanilla Marlin (Ender 5 configuration) has the origin at the front left. When facing the printer this makes more sense. Do note that there are printers with the origin in the middle and in the back right location, but these are outnumbered by far in preference of the front left location.
This means that when you switch boards you need to carefully look at the settings of the endstops and the definitions of the being min or max endstops and inverting or not of the steppers.
Upvotes: 1 |
Subsets and Splits