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2020/02/19 | 1,696 | 6,036 | <issue_start>username_0: I run a 3D printer farm and I have to replace my Bowden tubes on the printers after about a month or two of use(roughly 1000 hours of use). The Bowden tubes continually melt on the side of the tube very near to where it pushes against the nozzle. I am running Ender 3 Pros and I run at about 205 °C with PLA. The Bowden tubes I have are some I found on Amazon and they are not Capricorn tubes.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnhmZ.png)
EDIT1: I have added more pictures below of a new failure. This time you can see the marks of the teeth of the coupler a good inch below the failure point.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPk6E.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3xXQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9l5a.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PB7Ox.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: If the tube is PTFE, the tube is not likely to be melting unless your hotend temperature is out of control. You would probably notice the PLA cooking.
So, perhaps they aren't PTFE, or perhaps it is wear.
If it wasn't PTFE, you should be able to tell by the texture, slipperiness, and bending force.
The four thinned faces look like they would correspond to four of the barbs in the connector. The thinned ring below the four thinned faces look like a wear line where the tube is pressing against the exit of the connector. It looks to me as if the tube is moving or flexing in the connector. The barbs act as little chisels cutting into the tube, which is how they restrain such a slippery material as PTFE.
It might work better if the tube were a little longer. This might reduce the forces at the limits of movement which may be placing strain on the tubes. If you can, you might also fashion a strain relief for the tube so that it doesn't bend right as it exist from the connector. If you can cut down on the movement, you will help with the external wear.
It is also possible that the tubes are being strained by a high filament pressure. All the drive to push filament into the hot end is matched by an equivalent reverse pressure from the tube onto the connector. If you can stand a higher print temperature, the life of the tube may be increased.
@towe added a comment:
>
> I don't think those are marks from the teeth of the pneumatic coupler. The questions states "where it pushes against the nozzle", and the Ender 3 Pro seems to have a hot-end where the Bowden tube reaches all the way through the cold end and heat break to the nozzle.
>
>
>
A mechanical drawing of what may be a MK-10 hot-end as used on the Ender 3 Pro also suggests that the Ender 3 Pro has a PTFE lined hot end. Lets accept that drawing as confirming that @towe is right. Never-the-less, the marks you show in the photo look like the types of cuts I have seen from a pneumatic coupler. How can we reconcile this contradiction?
The most direct answer would be that the tube is not reaching through to the nozzle. In the photo you don't show enough of the blue tube to show the coupler scars which should be a little further up the tube. Suppose that, in fact, the tube is not pressing against the nozzle. This might not be the case if any of these are true:
1. There is a separate piece of PTFE that is permanently in hot end.
The Creality Ender 3 Pro looks as if
it is not configured for a Bowden feed. A PTFE lined hot-end for a
direct extruder would have a piece of PTFE cut to length in the
hot-end. A simple mod to make that a Bowden would leave that
sculpted PTFE tube in place.
2. The pneumatic couplers have been replaced. Many couplers do not
permit the tube to pass through them, although the hole in the end
can be drilled to 4mm diameter. In fact, preventing the tube from
passing through a pneumatic coupler is a feature in the intended
application of coupling to air tubes in moderate pressure
applications.
3. There is a bump in the path that is catching the tube and
preventing it from extending through to the cold end and onward.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: After a lot of hard work and months of replacing and inspecting this issue I realized what's going on. The bowden tube gets soft as it gets hotter and hotter which allows the filament which is being extruded and retracted at a high speed to wear down the side of the tube. After some time the tube gets stretched out and it will eventually tear and that is seens as the hole in the pictures I provided. The solution to this problem is to upgrade to an all metal hotend, instate less aggressive retraction settings (which is what I did), or closely monitor your prints and replace your bowden tubing when it does eventually get damaged (which I also do).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This isn't melting, it is wear.
And it isn't typical wear you would expect due to abrasion. It is wear caused by retraction. As your filament retracts (usually between parts of the model to reduce stringing), the semi-molten filament is sucked back into the tube.
Then, when the filament is unretracted, the filament is pushed back into the nozzle. However, in the meantime, a little of the filament solidified on the PTFE wall. PTFE is very slippery, so the solidified chunk is peeled off the wall no problems - but it takes with it a tiny bit of the inside of the tube.
Do that hundreds of thousands of times, and the wall of the tube gets thinned at that point until it fails.
One solution to this is to reduce retraction. Notice how the distance between the worn bit and the end of the tube is always the retraction distance in millimeters?
Another solution is an all metal hotend.
Or just trim your bowden tube shorter by a few mm every hundred hours of printing or so.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/02/21 | 375 | 1,341 | <issue_start>username_0: I am Attempting to print this, from Blender
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKdun.jpg)
But Cura decides to fill in the middle part of the model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fj3T.png)
I exported and imported the model from an STL file.
If anyone can answer this, that would be greatly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: I would recommend using an actual CAD/CAM program, such as Autodesk Fusion 360, instead of using a 3d model program. Not only will this be able to directly export you finished model to Cura, and the models are made in a way that works with a 3d printing slicer, there will be more help around 3D printing for it.
Although it is slightly difficult to use to start with, as you become more proficient, it is a very powerful tool to have. . Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists or students. See this link for help activating: <https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists>.
Another option would be SolidWorks, although you do have to pay for this option, but it is much simpler to work with in my opinion.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Try disabling the "Union Overlapping Volumes" option on Mesh Fixes section. Worked for me.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/02/22 | 794 | 2,918 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently I've been having trouble printing properly on my Creality Ender-3 printer. I ran a pretty long print (approx. 15 hours) that turned out really well. I then started printing an attachment for the original print and saw that it was printing layers that were extremely thin.
I first scraped off the excess filament left on the extruder nozzle. Then, I heated up the bed and rubbed off the layer with alcohol. I tried printing it again but it still didn't print right.
Thin layer
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4wh5.jpg)
Weird thing
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUTgb.jpg)
From the images above, you can tell it's noticeably hard to see the layer, which shows just how thin it is.
I sliced the model in Ultimaker Cura. I set the layer height to 0.15 mm. I've printed models before with this height but the layer wasn't transparent.
What should I do to fix this issue?<issue_comment>username_1: If your first layer is more thin than you expect it to be, the bed is too close to the nozzle. Note that you need to check the level an bed-to-nozzle distance once every few prints. Also, the first layer shouldn't be a too thin layer, the Cura default for a 0.4 mm nozzle is about 0.28 mm. Personally, I always use 0.2 mm.
The best solution is to re-slice the model with a thicker first layer. Next, re-level the bed to the proper distance of an A4/US Letter printing paper. You should feel some drag when you pull it between nozzle and bed.
Other solutions that also work include the redefinition of the Z=0 level, but this is not advised. Please fix the hardware.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You need to level you bed. Thin prints happen when the extruder is too low and is printing too close to the bed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ybFIO.png)
Download the following test codes from this address:
<https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html>
1) The first code is the most important you will want to run moves the extruder to five points on your board - Front Left and Right, Back Left and Right, and Center. Using a folded piece of paper - I use a business card - drag the paper under extruder of each of the four corners. You want to make sure you get a bit of drag when pulling out the paper/card. If you feel have enough of a gap that you can run put the paper/card under the extruder and that you feel a bit of tug when pulling it out. It runs the middle last - if you are having issue with the drag, adjust all four corners slowly until it is right.
2) The second runs the extruder in a square pattern on your board. You simply want to run your finger of the print - if it sticks to the bed, you are good - if it doesn't, adjust your corners up and keep testing.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/02/23 | 1,915 | 7,297 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been trying to find a solution to a problem I've been having recently whereby the bottom layers of my print (1.2 mm; 12 layers) are either being compressed. over extruded or both. The problem results in the nozzle being dragged through previously extruded filament leaving deep groove marks and the bottom layers being risen/wavy, thus causing (I believe) the print layers to expand horizontally outwards
Settings are:
* Anycubic Chiron
* 0.1 mm layer height
* 200 °C hotends temperature
* 55 °C bed temperature
* 40 mm/s print speed
* eSun black 1.75 mm PLA
* Cura 4.4.1
It's less noticeable on less intrinsic prints but for my [latest project](https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=260512), its becoming a real issue. The problem is that for the square holes for the buttons (of which there are a lot), the bottom layers are extruding (essentially elephants foot-ing) which is impacting the tolerances of the build (holes should be 13 mm to accept 12.5 mm square buttons but are coming out at ~12.7 mm only on the bottom layer, I've measured the walls of the square holes and they're coming out perfectly).
I've tried almost everything I can think of/find on Google:
1. Levelling the bed (multiple times)
2. Tried print temps from 190 °C to 210 °C (even printed a temp tower which confirmed printing at ~200 °C is correct for my filament (eSun black PLA)
3. Calibrated the extruder
4. Calibrated the Z-axis
5. Set different horizontal expansion settings in Cura
6. Reduced entire print flow rates (have tried 90 %, 85 % and 80 %); this somewhat worked but produced problems elsewhere in the print due to lack of material (skin overlap etc.)
7. Used the 'modify settings for overlap' mesh setting to reduce infill flow & inner wall flow to 45 % and 55 % respectively for the bottom layers (up to 1.2 mm).
The last point in that list is where I've had the most success but it does leave a slight indentation around the outer wall until the full flow rate kicks in (i.e. >1.2 mm) and I'm thinking there may be other things at play that are causing the issue and I shouldn't have to do this reduce bottom layer flow so much if at all.
Has anyone seen this before?<issue_comment>username_1: The first thing that comes to mind is that, even though you have levelled the bed, the print nozzle may be too close causing too much "squish" on the first layer. Squish isn't bad as it promotes adhesion, but in your case, as you are looking for finer tolerances on the holes, it may be a problem. I use a feeler gauge and aim for 0.15 mm gap when printing at 0.2 mm layer height.
Next thing to consider is ensuring you have calibrated your flow rate/extrusion multiplier. [See here for detailed procedure](https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Flow+rate+(Extrusion+multiplier)+calibration+guide./89)
Assuming flow rate is calibrated I can think of some settings in Cura that could affect your print.
* Initial Layer Flow
* Flow Rate Compensation Factor
* Combing Mode / Avoid Printed Parts
*Initial Layer Flow* enable the use of a higher/lower flow rate in you first layer. Typically I set this to a value larger that my flow rate, 120 %, as I want good adhesion and am less worried about the elephant's foot effect. However, you could reduce it to less than your flow rate although that may compromise adhesion unless you use a brim.
*Flow Rate Compensation Factor* For most circumstances this should be 100 % which indicates that your flow rate should be used as set and not compensated for. I would check that this value has not been altered cause over-extrusion.
Lastly, there are two travel settings. *Combing Mode* and *Avoid Printed Parts* work in combination to reducing the impact of travels in the finished print. I would ensure you have combing turned on (e.g. Not in Skin) and that you have enabled Avoid Printed Parts. More details on these settings can be found [here](https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52838-travel)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem with bottom 8-10 layers being squashed. Tried all the possible settings and nothing helped.
Eventually found that the bottom part of the Z-axis guide rails was narrower then the top and it was not rolling properly down the bottom.
Found out by taking off the Z-axis rod and moved extruder up and down and I felt it was moving a lot worse/getting almost stuck down the bottom. Also tried it by disabling steppers and rolled the Z-axis motor by finger, almost no effort at the top to roll it down, but took a lot more effort down the bottom 5 cm or so.
I loosened the screws and pulled the bottom part wider and problem solved... Probably a rookie mistake as it is my first printer....
Hope it helps someone saving days of experimenting.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: So I managed to figure it out and it turns out the vertical guide screws had a lot of grease/oil build up near the bottom which was impeding the X axis motor from properly moving the nozzle vertically when instructed.
After removing both guide rods and cleaning with degreasing fluid, the troublesome problem is no more!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I had similar issues during the past few days. My first 3~5 layers overlapped. I ended up with figuring out it was the screws to mount Z stepper became loose and the stepper shifted itself downwards instead shifting up the nozzle for the first several layers, until the stepper had nowhere to go.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I have had a similar problem after years of clean printing and spent ages messing with it until I read this article and cleaned my lead screws on the Z-axis - a quick hit with a brush seems to have fixed it - fingers crossed.
Problem: my layers looked over extruded in random areas inside models and by the time I hit the top layer, I got some pretty serious results with blobs big enough to change the detail and fill in large gaps with ooze.
I tried the following:
* Tweaked my Cura settings for ages in case I had retraction set wrong, wiped back to factory defaults, regressed to earlier versions of Cura - no luck,
* Replaced my hot end assembly pretty much three times over, no luck except to clog a few brand new hot ends lol
* Used different filaments, dried filaments including new ones in the oven for a day, no luck. Probably wasted a couple of rolls of PLA persisting with trying to get a job completed through the problem.
* Cleaned the lead screw. It may have improved it somewhat but is difficult to tell as it is somewhat random.
UPDATE: The problem is not fixed, unfortunately. I will try a more detailed clean of the lead screws tomorrow, but I ran a 100 mm clean Z-axis raising test and noted it was pretty close to the mark, but interestingly it was about 99 mm on the left side and 101 mm on the right, although I doubt this could fully account for the problem I am having from about 2 mm up the axis unless the z height loss occurs in one concentrated section right near the bottom. The printer previously printed well and has not been damaged in any physical way that I am aware of. I will consider if there is any degradation in the functionality of the stepper motor by swapping them if more cleanup doesn't help. Keen for any other ideas if you have any.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/02/24 | 1,306 | 4,945 | <issue_start>username_0: My problem is that I have used a 3D printing machine from the University and found out that the cover for the car was not smooth even after using sanding paper and painting it.
What material would work best to print the cover of the Cyber truck. I want it to be light and smooth.
I have to print it from any online companies that have this service here in Germany.<issue_comment>username_1: I have 3D printed models which were then sanded using progressively finer grades of sandpaper, terminating with wet sanding using micromesh to 12000 grit. The result was smooth and shining without any coating applied.
If your original results were not acceptable, the process may have been flawed and should be re-considered for technique.
For your purposes, as a body for a radio controlled vehicle, you'll want to consider something that can manage an impact reasonably well. ABS is going to be less expensive and provide some energy absorption but will have layer lines that require sanding and finishing. Layer thickness plays a substantial part in providing for good results and a smooth finish. I used 0.100 mm layers to get optimum smoothness.
You could request your model to be created in nylon using the SLS method, but the surface will be granular and would also require sanding to accomplish a smooth finish.
SLA or MSLA resin printed models will provide a very smooth surface, but the material is brittle and may crack during "on-road" use. You may find a printing service which offers to create using a more flexible resin, but you'd have to request that or confirm the selection when placing the order.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Choice of Material
------------------
PLA is an obvious choice, but it has drawbacks compared with ABS.
1. PLA is more brittle than ABS.
2. PLA softens at a lower temperature than ABS.
3. PLA is not treatable with acetone for vapor smoothing.
4. PLA can not be glued
with (most) solvent-based adhesives.
I would consider ABS or ASA to be good choices for an RC-car body.
Getting Smooth Surfaces
-----------------------
To get a really smooth surface, after printing with thin layers and good print settings to minimize strings and blobs, you will want to treat the surface. The two most common techniques are sanding and vapor smoothing.
Wet Sanding is Great. Dry Sanding is Not.
-----------------------------------------
Sanding is a great smoothing technique for PLA and even for ABS, but one must be careful. In addition to some of the sand paper grains being aligned as proper cutters to remove material, many grains are uselessly aligned and simply contribute to friction. The plastics used in FFF printing are, by definition, thermoplastics and will melt. One can easily soften and even melt plastic with dry sanding.
When the plastic softens, it can form little balls which dig into the surface, or stick to the surface. These hurt the surface finish like snowmen mar a field of freshly fallen snow.
Any sanding should be done wet, with wet-rated paper. Work up through the grits. Lower grit abrasive removes more material so that the surface can be "even". Lower grit lets you sand out the layer lines quickly.
Use a Sequence of Grits
-----------------------
Higher grit papers remove the scratch marks of the previous grit.
Generally, I go up by about 50% of grit number at each change.
When I am removing a lot of plastic and want to end with a glossy surface, I go through this sequence: 36->80->120->180->220->330->400->500->1000->1500->2500->3600->5000. Yes, I know that there are some big jumps there, but I haven't happened to stock papers at intermediate points, and it works for me. Depending on how smooth the surface already is, or how much material I must remove, I start further up the progressing. For 3D printed objects, I start at 220. The last three are critical.
Consider Adding Vapor Finishing to you Toolbox
----------------------------------------------
Vapor finishing of ABS can give some very fine and glossy results. It is worth trying, although be aware that acetone mist is very flammable. If you are heating the acetone, treat it as life-threatening and possibly explosive.
If you use vapor finishing, consider that the acetone goes into the ABS. A warm soak or vacuum degassing could help remove it. You don't want the hood of your RC car to start bubbling in the sun as the acetone is motivated to escape.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You may consider PETG too. It's not as strong as ASA or ABS but it's much easier to print.
You can polish it by first sanding and then flame-smoothing.
See [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycGDR752fT0) from CNC kitchen about comparing the different materials (ABS is not considered because similar to ASA in properties but more difficult to print) and see [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jTLmQVsk_s) about flame-smoothing PETG.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/02/25 | 1,107 | 4,288 | <issue_start>username_0: My model is a keycap for mechanical keyboards. There is the cap itself, and a stem with a hole in the form of a cross, which fits the switches themselves.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Xxb.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkBxu.jpg)
I print in the same position as it is intended to be used, top up. This means that the stem and the cap are not connected until quite a few print layers.
To prevent the stem from falling off during the print (it has a small footprint), I created connectors in the first layers, to hold it in place.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXDEn.jpg)
The issue: it seems like all my prints have a rotation of the stem, compared to the cap. It probably rather is the cross-shaped hole, or its walls, that are not completely symmetrical. I do not think it is only the edges against the printing bed that are the cause, since I have trimmed them with a scalpel. The rotation is always in the same direction.
The twist is detectable when watching the keycap with the switch, and more so with keycaps on switches on a keyboard plate (you can see that the edges of the caps do not align. They do in my CAD program):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aJ5S.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvUvU.jpg)
I use Cura as my slicer, layer height 0.06 mm, and ABS. I attempted a slow print (30 mm/s), which didn't help.
The first work-around that comes to mind is to measure the twist and compensate for that in my model. But I believe that since the problem is in the printing process, the problem would best be solved in the slicer.
What could possibly be the issue? Is there an option is Cura to compensate for this? Short of the work-around mentioned above, what are other steps I should look into?<issue_comment>username_1: This looks like a shift rather than a twist.
--------------------------------------------
Looking closely at the "+" opening, it doesn't look as much twisted as it looks as if the top and bottom halves are sheared, with the top half shifted slightly right and the bottom shifted slightly left. The horizontal part of the plus seems aligned on the left and right halves.
When you press-fit the keycaps, you will "average" the displacement forces and the keycap will twist.
I am suspicious of a backlash problem in the X axis (left to right). Perhaps the belt isn't tight enough, or some part shifts differently. It could be in the rails, the belt, a loose drive pulley, the hot end being slightly loose on the carriage, or any uncontrolled movement. It could be a high-friction x-axis which causes spring wind-up in the drive system.
I recommend carefully examining the printer for any excess friction or movement, and taking action to fix that first before tweaking the model to compensate for what can not be fixed.
If it is a twist, use more cooling.
-----------------------------------
If the photos have misled me, and the vertical "+" shaft if actually twisting, you may need to use higher cooling. The drag of the filament as the head traces the perimeter can create a torque on the shaft, and if the plastic is not sufficiently cooled it could be dragged around. I consider this more of a theoretical problem than a real one, and have not yet seen it in practice.
This is a beautiful design
--------------------------
This is a wonderful application of 3D printing. With a multi-material printer it would be tempting to label the keys similar to old-style multi-shot keycaps.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Another possibility is that those connectors you put in are pulling the cross-pattern off-center. Is there enough height that you could specify supports in that area instead? If so I'd recommend a brim "everywhere" to help stabilize the supports under the centerpost.
If there is sufficient clearance in the mechanism itself, consider expanding the diameter of the post (not the cross itself) to increase stability as the print is in progress.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/02/27 | 1,842 | 6,998 | <issue_start>username_0: I am thinking to use closed-loop stepper motors to prevent step loss and make the machine more accurate. What options (preferably low cost) are there for:
`stepper motor + driver + encoder + microcontoller`
Is building it from scratch worth it? E.g. Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4/1.5/1.6 + stepper motors (e.g. NEMA17) + drivers (e.g. A4988, DRV8825) + encoders (e.g. AS5047P, AS5047D, AS5048A, TLE5012B) + microcontrollers (e.g. STM32).<issue_comment>username_1: A number of options exist, but keep in mind that cost will be a limiting factor.
*(Small sidenote: cost depends on persective, financial cost does not equal mental cost. The tradeoff between buy or make depends also on your willingness to persist when things don't work right away.)*
**Before you start:** make sure that your printer has enough space to accomodate bigger motors.
**So, what options are there?**
1. Change your current configuration. If you are losing steps, it could very well be that it can be fixed in firmware.
* Pro: No budget and nothing to lose.
* Con: No shiny closed loop system. (Is that bad though?) Possibly need to configure and compile your own firmware.
2. MacGyver / DIY solution based on low lever components
* Pro: Probably as cheap as you'll get depending on how you choose your components. Might be an interesting learning experience, not to mention the satisfaction afterwards. This could be the smallest build size you'll see in all the options.
* Con: You'll need a decent amount of engineering and debugging. Might be tricky to mount the encoders.
3. Same as 1, but now consider using of the shelf stepper motors [with integrated encoders](https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/stepper-motor-w-encoder?mfp=161-motor-nema-size[Nema%2017]).
* Pro: Most robust option on a budget in my opinion due to the single mechanical piece (motor + encoder).
* Con: Integrated encoders have a considerable cost and are large compared to their vanila versions.
4. Go for [off the shelf motor+encoder and drivers](https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/closed-loop-stepper-kit).
* Pro: No need to worry about driver configurations too much. Just plug in the numbers or set the dip switches. Very conveinient solution. Pretty much plug and play.
* Con: This will already be challenging on a budget. Making a wrong mix and match might lead to unpredictable results such as drives going in overcurrent. (Which, believe me, is very frustrating for your application!)
5. If we are allowed to consider servo motors: [ClearPath-SD series](https://www.teknic.com/products/clearpath-brushless-dc-servo-motors/clearpath-sd-stepper-replacement/) (Or any alternative for that matter!) *I'm just including this for completeness.*
* Pro: Performance wise a clear winner on pretty much any relevant level.
* Con: You'll need a big budget!
**Bottomline**: You'll probably want to give the first option a go before spending money. Next stop, you might want to take the second option (you already did research on different specific low level components), and if you have time to spare I'd go with that as well. If you are also on a budget timewise, I'd definively suggest to take the third option with existing driver boards.
The other options are more cost heavy and become real options in produciton environments, where downtime is also costsing money.
As to the microcontroller, take whatever you have available. Just know that more computational power will allow you to output steps faster and will allow for smoother movements. Lot's to talk about there as well!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: So, I am one of those who has implemented this on my big scale heavily modified cr-10 S5.
Why?
Well with bigger prints, the risk of crashing into itself because of a small blob is very real. Possibly ruining a 100$ worth of filament and missing deadlines. (We are using this professionally.) Blobs will happen, especially if you run low cost filaments and PETG, which is the only sane option for functional bigger prints from a cost perspective. We are using the BTT system S42B on all axis and it works well. A blob is now just a small distraction which can be polished away but the remaining print is still dimensionally correct.
However, it is not a trivial task to actually implement. To make this work one needs a printer main board allowing for external stepper drivers, like SKR E3 DIP,SKR V1.4,SKR V1.4 Turbo and so on. Also there one needs to tune the PID:s for the system in use which is not super simple.
If you are truly an expert and do big prints, I really think this is a must have upgrade. On the other hand if one are only printing smaller parts on a hobby scale this will not be a worth while upgrade. I am not talking about the money involved, the pcbs are just 14$/pcs but the work needed with new cabling pid-tuning marlin-digging and so on. For us it is just amazing to not have 30% failures any more, du to the inevitable blobs sometimes appearing in bigger prints.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I've implemented a closed-loop system about 25 years ago on an 8 x 32 erosion table scanning it at one cm resolution using laser triangulation. It took 120 hours to scan the surface. Most of the time was spent waiting seven seconds for the system to stop shaking. I put shaft encoders on the X, Y, & Z shafts, not the stepper motors. I wanted to sure I got the movement of the camera.
In the end, I settled on moving to a goal with a 1/10 mm tolerance and added any error into the move to the next goal. There was a sphere of confusion of the location of the camera of more than 2/10 mm. Moving back and forth to make up for a missed step at the cost of nearly 10 seconds a move could add days to a run. We were well past the end of the table's life.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: It has been 25 or 30 years since I did my first closed-loop system. I was driving a syringe pump from a printer port on a MS-Dos PC that ran hot had to disable the timer interrupts to make the deadlines amount moving the plunger, updating the floppy drive reading and computing the new position, getting the time, and fixing up the timer.
I found moving to a goal with a tolerance of 1 or 2 stepper motor steps was on the money over 95% of the time and I made deadlines over 90% of the time. Any error was made up in the next move. I used the same scheme on an 8 x 32 foot structured light scanning table. I am pretty sure I saw memory errors from cosmic rays on this one. It took 500 hours to scan that with no parity check on the RAM. It had some wooden structures that changed size over time. I could track the movement with the error files from the shaft encoders.
On the x y scanning table, the wait time was7 seconds after a move before the camera stopped asking enough to capture an image. We elected to fix up the position in software and accumulate the errors in the next move in order to be able to finish the project.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/02/27 | 211 | 754 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to put a spiral lid on top of a container. When the lid opens, then the spiral mechanism will rotate into the container. Is there a name for this mechanism? If not, would something like this be possible?<issue_comment>username_1: No spiral lids that I know of. I'm not sure how they would work, anyway. There are plenty of designs with hemispherical lids -- so-called "Venus" boxes. Check Yeggi:
[Yeggi : Venus box](https://www.yeggi.com/q/venus+box/)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: It sounds like you're talking about an [iris diaphragm](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diaphragm_(optics)). This has many parts that slide against each other, and would best be printed as separate parts, then assembled.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/02/28 | 524 | 2,010 | <issue_start>username_0: If I set my prints on the window sill (indoors) will the sunlight still be able to cure the resin? The problem with setting them outside is the wind knocking them over.<issue_comment>username_1: The glass will block most of the uv light; but not all. It will depend on the type of light that the resin is sensitive to; in order to determine if it will continue to cure behind a glass window in direct sunlight. Some resins also sensitive to blue light. You will need to look at the material data sheet for the resin to be able to know for sure. Be advised though, that the resin does not stop curing, and will continue to cure slowly over time, just sitting on the desk.
<https://www.thoughtco.com/does-glass-block-uv-light-608316>
From the link:
>
> Glass that is transparent to visible light absorbs nearly all UVB. This is the wavelength range that can cause a sunburn, so it's true you can't get a sunburn through glass. However, UVA is much closer to the visible spectrum than UVB. About 75% of UVA passes through ordinary glass. UVA leads to skin damage and genetic mutations that can lead to cancer. Glass does not protect you from skin damage from the sun. It affects indoor plants too. Have you ever taken an indoor plant outside and burned its leaves? This happens because the plant was unaccustomed to the higher levels of UVA found outside, compared with inside a sunny window.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Yes.
I frequently leave models made on a Saturn printer with Elegoo gray resin on a surface in the sun to slow cure them. If properly cleaned their finish is indistinguishable from models rapid cured in a UV chamber.
It should be noted that I only do this with small models that are Table top miniature scale. Large models with lots of shadows, overhands or complicated detailing may not cure evenly.
I usually do this if I have a lot of models to cure and am too lazy to keep cycling them through my cure station.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/02/28 | 594 | 2,062 | <issue_start>username_0: I made a custom printer with RAMPS. I used Y-MIN endstop at beginning. After few prints I discovered that Y-axis was inverted (mirrored).
I fixed Marlin firmware and now I have:
```
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
```
I also connected the Y-endstop to Y-max pin on RAMPS.
Now the printer homing in the same direction than before (in front) and the y-endstop works as expected.
If I try to start printing or if I try to press the "center" button in Pronterface, the Y-axis moves in the wrong direction.
Can someone help me?<issue_comment>username_1: Usually I just flip the connector around on the board. This causes the stepper to reverse without fiddling around with firmware.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This [blog post](https://www.everybitelectronics.co.uk/blog/3d-printer-error-prints-reversed/) shows 3 main solutions:
1. Flipping the motor cables (As suggested in the other answer)
2. Switching the x and y-axis:
This may switch the direction of your y-axis depending on the way your printer is setup)
3. Change the direction of the axis in firmware which you can see below how to do:
>
> "When the solution opens up, you will see many different files open. You need to navigate to the Configuration.h file. Within this file scroll down to the following lines of code:"
>
>
>
```
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
define INVERT_X_DIR true
define INVERT_Y_DIR true
define INVERT_Z_DIR true
```
>
> "This is where you need to switch the values around. If they are currently true, change them to false and if they are false, change them to true. Due to the fact I was having issues with my x-Axis, I have changed the above to the following:"
>
>
>
```
// Invert the stepper direction. Change (or reverse the motor connector) if an axis goes the wrong way.
define INVERT_X_DIR false
define INVERT_Y_DIR true
define INVERT_Z_DIR true
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/02/28 | 2,212 | 8,274 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been noticing in some of my linear advance test towers that the (very minor/fine) ripple pattern in walls varies with the K factor, which made me think that it isn't coming from any vibration in the print head motion, but rather from quantization of the extruder into discrete steps (i.e. wall gets slightly thicker right after a step, thins out afterwards until the next step, repeats).
By my math, with 1.75 mm filament and 93 steps per mm on my printer (Ender 3), each step is 0.02585 mm³ of material. At 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height, there's 0.08 mm³ of material per linear mm, so that should give roughly 3 extruder steps per linear mm. That seems comparable to the ripple rate I see, although not exact; I suppose it varies somewhat because of linear advance and perhaps other reasons.
Anyway, to get to the question, am I missing something or is this the limiting factor in print resolution on my printer? It seems like isolated small details (smaller than 1/3 mm) won't be extrudable at all except as ooze, or over-extruded if they happen to cross a step threshold, and like things would be far worse if I tried to use a smaller nozzle and thinner layers. It seems that, ideally, you'd want the E-axis steps per mm to be sufficiently high that quantization is a non-issue (i.e. +-1 step is small relative error) for extrusions corresponding to a single X- or Y-axis microstep.<issue_comment>username_1: Short answer
------------
*Usually* no.
Long answer
-----------
There are several big factors that limit how small things you can print. The bigger ones are pretty much:
* Positional accuracy and settings (limited by steps/mm in X, Y, Z)
* Nozzle diameter
Now, why don't you need to care about steps/mm on the extruder that muchin the grand scale compared to the positional accuracy? Well, we have 1.8° per step, from which, with the diameter of the gear, 11mm, we get 0,1778 mm of filament extrusion or 0.428 mm³ of extruded plastic per full 1.8° step - which clearly is unsuitable to printing at all. But with the 16 micro-steps the shorter movements are possible and a single micro-step extrusion is in the area you calculated - I got to 0,0267 mm³, possibly the result of different rounding between us. With an assumed effective gear diameter of 11mm (usually the effective gear diameter is a little smaller, thus the 93 steps) we come to about 89.9 steps per mm of filament, which corresponds to about 2.4 mm³ of extruded plastic, or about 30 mm of line (with your given parameters), bringing us to about 3 microsteps per millimeter of line on the tray. So far, your math checks out. But that usually shouldn't be too much a limiting factor. We know from your given settings, that the *Configuration.h* will look like this, putting the microsteps into the steps/mm:
```
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 }
```
As you don't have a micro-stepping driver, this part in *Configuration\_adv.h* is non-functional:
```
// Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.
#define MICROSTEP_MODES {16,16,16,16,16} // [1,2,4,8,16]
```
With the proposed 0.4 mm/0.2 mm line, we are still somewhat on the good side, allowing us about 1/3rd of a millimeter as the shortest line printable as a single step extrusion. That's a consistent with printing a simple, circular dot being printable with these settings - 0.4 > 1/3.
But once you get to smaller nozzle diameters, the limitation gets more noticeable: at a 0.2 mm nozzle and 0.22 mm line at 0.1 mm height, that's a 0.022 mm² crosssection, so the 1-step extrusion is equivalent to a full millimeter of line! That's much more bothersome in theory.
However, I haven't been able to witness the inability of showing that limit of lacking extrusion yet on my TronXY-X1 with a 0.2 mm nozzle - the steps/mm in it are also about 90-100 last I set them. The TronXY uses a very similar (virtually identical) extruder setup as the Ender 3, and it achieved printed lines of about 0.3 mm length at 0.1 mm layer height somewhat reliable, but the retraction made huge issues, which might also mask the problem.
I believe that it needs these smaller nozzles to amplify the problems to make them noticeable. It also should become more noticeable if you'd use 2.85 mm or 3 mm filament.
Ways to improve resolution
--------------------------
However, if printing with smaller nozzles, it might be a good idea to think about how one could improve the accuracy of the extruder system.
The most-easy way would be to alter the extruder and swap the gear to one of a *smaller* effective diameter - That way a single step accounts to *less* extrusion, which means, in turn, a higher number of steps/mm, and thus allowing for shorter extrusions that can be still achieved.
Next one might think about getting a different motor/driver setup that might have either more microsteps or generally a smaller step size.
Quadrupling the effective (micros)steps/mm would allow us to print about a 0.25 mm line on the 0.22 mm nozzle I proposed, being pretty much a spot - if it wouldn't be partially masked in other issues as I experience.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Your calculations about the theoretical extruder resolution are spot on. I did a similar calculation to evaluate which extruder to use with different hot ends, I paste the results. The dark cells are the input cells, the rest is calculated. You can see that for some lines I entered directly the mm/microstep value, since I wanted not a theoretical but practical result for my printer (3 mm filament) or for known extruders (BMG).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mQeA.png)
Concerning the question, the resolution of the extruder matters, but it's a bit complicated to estimate exactly how much.
In general, this are the factors I can think about.
A poor resolution may not impact straight lines much, since the rotation of the extruder is continuous and the extruder is unlikely to snap exactly to the desired microstep position as soon as you ask for it: it's likely a bit behind all the time, that's how torque is obtained (more or less).
The issue may become smaller with drivers which interpolate microsteps up to 256x.
However, whenever there is a change of flow rate, poor resolution implies that you cannot control the exact location/moment where/when the flow changes. This matters mostly at the end and at the beginning or retractions/re-retractions. Maybe you get more ooze?
However, the extruder resolution is not, in practice, as good as you calculated. In fact, as we know, microsteps reduce the incremental torque to very low values. The extruder is a motor which requires quite a lot of torque, since pushing the filament is quite hard, and it is unlikely that you can achieve all the time the 16x microstep accuracy you assumed. For example, due to friction in Bowden, hot end, ... the filament (= the motor shaft) may at a certain point stay "back" more than average. This would cause an increase of effective torque, pushing the filament a bit faster, which would it bring to in sync or so with the desired position, but at that point it would slow down, and so on. Depending on the average speed, this oscillation may be dampened (and then no rippling is visible) or may oscillate constantly, and you see ripples also along straight lines.
This is why I placed the usteps column in my calculations: it is meant to calculate a more realistic resolution assuming that no accurate microstepping is achieved. I assumed higher achievable microsteps the lower the load on the motor is (this means gears, or thinner filament).
Having a high resolution to begin with clearly helps to reduce this issue. You can try to increase the current to the max your drivers and motor and cooling allow, and see if the ripples change. I think it will be reduced.
You may also try to build the [Orbiter extruder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223085) (linked also in the table) and see how it goes.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/02/29 | 1,963 | 7,339 | <issue_start>username_0: I began build LCD printer and I want make some modifications.
What if I will place LCD below VAT[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tznt5.jpg)? Will the display break when printing? what are the risks?
I seen a lot of printers and all of them use PP material for VAT bottom and attach with a lot of screws. I want make more simple VAT-LCD constructions and I think this construction transmis UV light better<issue_comment>username_1: Short answer
------------
*Usually* no.
Long answer
-----------
There are several big factors that limit how small things you can print. The bigger ones are pretty much:
* Positional accuracy and settings (limited by steps/mm in X, Y, Z)
* Nozzle diameter
Now, why don't you need to care about steps/mm on the extruder that muchin the grand scale compared to the positional accuracy? Well, we have 1.8° per step, from which, with the diameter of the gear, 11mm, we get 0,1778 mm of filament extrusion or 0.428 mm³ of extruded plastic per full 1.8° step - which clearly is unsuitable to printing at all. But with the 16 micro-steps the shorter movements are possible and a single micro-step extrusion is in the area you calculated - I got to 0,0267 mm³, possibly the result of different rounding between us. With an assumed effective gear diameter of 11mm (usually the effective gear diameter is a little smaller, thus the 93 steps) we come to about 89.9 steps per mm of filament, which corresponds to about 2.4 mm³ of extruded plastic, or about 30 mm of line (with your given parameters), bringing us to about 3 microsteps per millimeter of line on the tray. So far, your math checks out. But that usually shouldn't be too much a limiting factor. We know from your given settings, that the *Configuration.h* will look like this, putting the microsteps into the steps/mm:
```
/**
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (steps/mm)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z, E0 [, E1[, E2[, E3[, E4]]]]
*/
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 93 }
```
As you don't have a micro-stepping driver, this part in *Configuration\_adv.h* is non-functional:
```
// Microstep setting (Only functional when stepper driver microstep pins are connected to MCU.
#define MICROSTEP_MODES {16,16,16,16,16} // [1,2,4,8,16]
```
With the proposed 0.4 mm/0.2 mm line, we are still somewhat on the good side, allowing us about 1/3rd of a millimeter as the shortest line printable as a single step extrusion. That's a consistent with printing a simple, circular dot being printable with these settings - 0.4 > 1/3.
But once you get to smaller nozzle diameters, the limitation gets more noticeable: at a 0.2 mm nozzle and 0.22 mm line at 0.1 mm height, that's a 0.022 mm² crosssection, so the 1-step extrusion is equivalent to a full millimeter of line! That's much more bothersome in theory.
However, I haven't been able to witness the inability of showing that limit of lacking extrusion yet on my TronXY-X1 with a 0.2 mm nozzle - the steps/mm in it are also about 90-100 last I set them. The TronXY uses a very similar (virtually identical) extruder setup as the Ender 3, and it achieved printed lines of about 0.3 mm length at 0.1 mm layer height somewhat reliable, but the retraction made huge issues, which might also mask the problem.
I believe that it needs these smaller nozzles to amplify the problems to make them noticeable. It also should become more noticeable if you'd use 2.85 mm or 3 mm filament.
Ways to improve resolution
--------------------------
However, if printing with smaller nozzles, it might be a good idea to think about how one could improve the accuracy of the extruder system.
The most-easy way would be to alter the extruder and swap the gear to one of a *smaller* effective diameter - That way a single step accounts to *less* extrusion, which means, in turn, a higher number of steps/mm, and thus allowing for shorter extrusions that can be still achieved.
Next one might think about getting a different motor/driver setup that might have either more microsteps or generally a smaller step size.
Quadrupling the effective (micros)steps/mm would allow us to print about a 0.25 mm line on the 0.22 mm nozzle I proposed, being pretty much a spot - if it wouldn't be partially masked in other issues as I experience.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Your calculations about the theoretical extruder resolution are spot on. I did a similar calculation to evaluate which extruder to use with different hot ends, I paste the results. The dark cells are the input cells, the rest is calculated. You can see that for some lines I entered directly the mm/microstep value, since I wanted not a theoretical but practical result for my printer (3 mm filament) or for known extruders (BMG).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mQeA.png)
Concerning the question, the resolution of the extruder matters, but it's a bit complicated to estimate exactly how much.
In general, this are the factors I can think about.
A poor resolution may not impact straight lines much, since the rotation of the extruder is continuous and the extruder is unlikely to snap exactly to the desired microstep position as soon as you ask for it: it's likely a bit behind all the time, that's how torque is obtained (more or less).
The issue may become smaller with drivers which interpolate microsteps up to 256x.
However, whenever there is a change of flow rate, poor resolution implies that you cannot control the exact location/moment where/when the flow changes. This matters mostly at the end and at the beginning or retractions/re-retractions. Maybe you get more ooze?
However, the extruder resolution is not, in practice, as good as you calculated. In fact, as we know, microsteps reduce the incremental torque to very low values. The extruder is a motor which requires quite a lot of torque, since pushing the filament is quite hard, and it is unlikely that you can achieve all the time the 16x microstep accuracy you assumed. For example, due to friction in Bowden, hot end, ... the filament (= the motor shaft) may at a certain point stay "back" more than average. This would cause an increase of effective torque, pushing the filament a bit faster, which would it bring to in sync or so with the desired position, but at that point it would slow down, and so on. Depending on the average speed, this oscillation may be dampened (and then no rippling is visible) or may oscillate constantly, and you see ripples also along straight lines.
This is why I placed the usteps column in my calculations: it is meant to calculate a more realistic resolution assuming that no accurate microstepping is achieved. I assumed higher achievable microsteps the lower the load on the motor is (this means gears, or thinner filament).
Having a high resolution to begin with clearly helps to reduce this issue. You can try to increase the current to the max your drivers and motor and cooling allow, and see if the ripples change. I think it will be reduced.
You may also try to build the [Orbiter extruder](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4223085) (linked also in the table) and see how it goes.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/03/02 | 605 | 2,191 | <issue_start>username_0: A question to those who have a 3D printer. Have you ever needed a spare throat or a heater block? Do they ever break?
I just bought some spare parts: heaters, thermistors, nozzles... However, I am not sure if buying throats and heater blocks make any sense.<issue_comment>username_1: Short answer
============
Yes
Long answer
===========
Heater bocks
------------
A heater block is destroyed if one of the following happens
* Threads stripped
* Bent or otherwise deformed
* stripped grub screw
All of these can happen by handling the block with too much force when securing nozzles, thermosensors or heater cartridges.
Throats
-------
Throats can be destroyed, especially e3D v6 throats with their neck down on the center can be simply turned and broken in two. Lined throats can be heated too much and the liner destroyed, which not always can be replaced, mandating a spare part. And you can strip the threads.
Another chance to damage the throat is by using very hard material nozzles - stainless steel comes to mind. Such a nozzle would not deform itself like brass when tightened against the throat and might lead to damage to the end of the throat if exchanged several times.
Conclusion
----------
If you run several printers or change nozzles regularly for whatever reason, it is a very good idea to have at least a complete set of spare parts on hand to fix problems that might occur during work on the printer. I have a fully assembled spare hotend waiting for its day to shine in case my current one breaks...
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Parts don't have to break or bent, they may become unusable by other issues as well!
In addition to [the answer of @username_1](/a/12115), if you clog your hotend, or the hotend/heater block/nozzle gets buried deep into solidified filament (see image below), it might be much easier just to replace the parts rather than salvaging the parts (or you can salvage the parts later, in the meantime you'll be up and running).
E.g. recover from [this](/q/8252):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/02 | 368 | 1,426 | <issue_start>username_0: [A part](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195002) I've printed (on a Monoprice Maker Select V2, sliced with Cura) has a small peg on it, which is an unsupported overhanging section of the model.
The first few layers of the peg end up a mess of PLA spaghetti. Here I've rotated the part to get a better shot, normally it would be printed on its side.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lawtn.jpg)
I've done test prints that contain L-shaped overhangs and they worked ok, so I'm not sure what's broken about this one.
One guess I have is that because the peg is relatively low to the heated build plate, the material isn't cooling as quickly, and it needs to be more rigid in order for subsequent layers to print.
I also tried with supports but I found it too hard to remove.<issue_comment>username_1: Unsupported parts need to be printed with support. If your supports are too hard to remove, try the Tree Support setting and make sure that your support structure is set up with a gap to the actual print. As we don't know which slier you use, I can't go into more details here.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You could try printing slower and/or increase cooling ( possibly even a cooler bed temp) if you absolutely want to avoid supports, or just use supports with a support interface and tweak support distance.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/04 | 506 | 1,869 | <issue_start>username_0: Printer: SecKit Go w/ BMG/v6 and SKR v1.3/TMC2130 Drivers
Slicer: Simplify3d or Cura (problem is much worse in Cura?)
Long story short - after getting this printer running, I have noticed that it will underextrude ONLY on corners on an internal perimeter specifically once we're above bottom layers - and nowhere else. See below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9Y3r.jpg)
E-Steps have been calibrated, extrusion multiplier has been calibrated (single perimeters are 0.48 mm), linear advance has been calibrated, but here it gets weird. Anything resembling a 'standard' value (suggested between 1-2) results in MASSIVE underextrusion after the speed change. I was able to get a good looking line using the linear advance test with a value of 0.15 (which seems very low).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvSl7.jpg)
Retraction (1 mm @ 30 mm/s), junction deviation (0.02) and all other settings are off the factory Simplify3d profile. Turning linear advance off makes the problem slightly better but doesn't fix it, going to a value of around 1 results in huge underextrusion after any change in direction.
I am absolutely lost as to what to try next.<issue_comment>username_1: Unsupported parts need to be printed with support. If your supports are too hard to remove, try the Tree Support setting and make sure that your support structure is set up with a gap to the actual print. As we don't know which slier you use, I can't go into more details here.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You could try printing slower and/or increase cooling ( possibly even a cooler bed temp) if you absolutely want to avoid supports, or just use supports with a support interface and tweak support distance.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/11 | 1,604 | 6,135 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm getting a pet bird soon, and I know that off-gassing from heating PTFE above 300 °C creates noxious fumes, which are bird-killer1. To try to prevent even the chance of that I'm replacing my hotend with an all-metal one. I have an E3D v6 1.75 mm, which I noticed still uses a PTFE tube at the cold side (the 3 mm version apparently doesn't, but 1.75 mm filament is what my printer uses, so there we are).
If I'm reading the instructions correctly, it sounds like the heatsink shouldn't even get warm to the touch, and if that's the case I'm not worried as long as things go well. What I'm still worried about is what happens if the heatsink cooling fan fails. I plan to plug the fan into the always-on 12 V port on my board (SKR 1.3): if I do, then is it possible to set my firmware (currently Marlin 2.0.4.4) to stop a print if the fan fails?
If I can't get the firmware to stop on fan failure, then is there a 1.75 mm all-metal hotend out there that doesn't require the use of PTFE on the cold side?
---
1- [Here:](http://healthline.com/nutrition/nonstick-cookware-safety) "at temperatures above 570°F (300°C), Teflon [PTFE] coatings on nonstick cookware start to break down, releasing toxic chemicals into the air [(14)](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3276392/)"<issue_comment>username_1: First of all, we need to discuss the failure mode and what can be done. LEt's do a
Failure mode 1: coolend-fan stops working.
------------------------------------------
Let's assume the coolend-fan for whatever reason (cut cable, defect fan, burnt board...) stops working. As a result, the coolend starts to rise in temperature, as it doesn't drain as much heat into the room air as before. This directly leads to an increase of the hotend temperature, which results in a case differentiation:
* The hotend does not cope well with the loss of the heatsink and it triggers Thermal Runaway protection as for a given voltage bump the heating gets too high - the print gets aborted before the hotend reaches a temperature above 275 °C.
* The hotend does not trigger Thermal Runaway Protection but the controller alters its heating behavior and works the heater on a lower duty cycle. As long as the hotend temperature is ordered to stay low enough, we will get a lot of extrusion problems from heat-creep, but the PTFE seated into the heatbreak stays below the heater break's temperature, as the thermal mass of the coolend alone draws away thermal energy into the room, even without the fan that keeps it at room temperature. As long as you don't print at above 300 °C and the thermosensor is intact, the failure mode does not release any fumes that could result in Polytetrafluoroethylene Toxicosis.
Failure Mode 2: coolend fan stops Working, no TRP, Thermosensor OK
------------------------------------------------------------------
But what if TRP is off? Let's look at this Double Failure: The hotend does not trigger Thermal Runaway Protection (or it was turned off to begin with) and the temperature increases due to the lack of cooling from the coolend.
As the hotend reaches 275 °C (few printers print that hot, and they use specialized setups), it should trigger the next safety line: a MaxTemp error and cut power. Heating stops before the coolend gets to the dangerous zone of 300 °C, as the coolend always is less hot than the heater block.
Failure Mode 3: no TRP, Thermosensor broken
-------------------------------------------
We are getting desperate and turn off TRP, *then* break or disconnect the thermosensor to get a static low temperature. NOW we are getting serious, as only with such a failure we can trick our controller to continuously heat the heater cartridge and not trigger any of the error conditions. Only now there is the mere possibility to heat the coolend over 300 °C.
Marlin Firmware is designed to carefully work with checks and balances to keep the heater block in the wanted margin, and it would need a **deliberate manipulation** of the software to **disable** all safety features **in conjunction** with the failure of the thermosensor for the printer to go into Thermal runaway in such a degree that the coolend goes over 300 °C. And then you have different problems: your printer surely is turning into a molten pile in that failure mode. The presence or absence of the coolend fan would just delay the inevitable, should you run such a fire hazard-machine
Conclusion
==========
[Configure and install a recent firmware distribution](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide) (Marlin 1.1.9 and Marlin 2.x come with TRP enabled by default) and be sure to have MaxTemp enabled at 275 °C and Thermal Runaway Protection on, and you have a 3-layer safety against PTFE-fumes.
Adding more layers surely is possible, but the cost-effect calculation gets worse starting there.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It is doubtful that small PTFE inside hotend could produce that kind of dangerous gas leak.
But another thing should be considered: the PTFE tube inside hotend WILL degrade over time and will need replacement.
For last several years I had numerous experiments with all kind of solutions including my own designs made. And recently I found the best and all metal solution: Volcano 20mm heater + M6 stainless throat + normal SHORT E3D nozzle (not the Volcano nozzle but the normal one). Basically this solution put the problematic gap (merge of nozzle with throat) deep into hotter zone, you just need longer throat. So far I have best quality and speed with this approach.
The most important thing for the all metal hotend is to have fast retracts.
For the FAN I recommend to use double deck, that is to put one fan on top of another and connect them in parallel.
I found this solution in some server power supplies.
And indeed two fans produce really good flow to cool heatsink at higher temperatures (before I was considering water cooling but two fans much cheaper and do the job very good). Also the probability that two fans will fail is very low.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/03/12 | 1,121 | 3,566 | <issue_start>username_0: We are using the Board SKR 1.3 with the following pins:
```
/**
* Trinamic Stallguard pins
*/
#define X_DIAG_PIN P1_29 // X-
#define Y_DIAG_PIN P1_27 // Y-
#define Z_DIAG_PIN P1_25 // Z-
#define E0_DIAG_PIN P1_28 // X+
#define E1_DIAG_PIN P1_26 // Y+
```
We need a double Z motor, so We have defined the number of stepper drivers to 2 and it works like a charm:
```
#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2
```
Here is the problem, We need to have a single extruder with **two heating zones**, not a real second extruder. We have defined the number of extruders to 2:
```
#define EXTRUDERS 2
```
We want to reinforce that the second extruder does not exist, we only need the **second heating zone**. It's a big hotend with two different heating cartridges, that is, two different temperatures. So we do not need the stepper driver, only the temperature.
Then we get the following error messages:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jNEg.png)
We have thought of enabling the chamber and use it's pin, but we got stuck with all the structure for it:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER 5
```
```
#define CHAMBER_MAXTEMP 250 // Extruder first temperature zone
```
```
#define HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN 24
```<issue_comment>username_1: I second the previous answer if running second Z motor in parallel, just split wires or buy adapter consisting of two females to one male, Z motor on most printers don't draw huge current (or at least in smaller less frequent intervals to give things time to cool).
Erm I extruder with two temperature zones, hmmm buy a larger heating element, like a E3D Volcano or I believe they have an extreme version now, mine is rated for 40 W+.
Or you could use external MOSFET with separate Arduino PID.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately, I faced the same problem. The heated chamber will not be accurate enough due to lack of PID tuning. As a result, the temp will differ up to 10 degrees celsius when the heater is on. Is a big difference that will either not dry your filament enough or in the worst scenario will melt it. You will need to enable other features in order to bypass the issue. Find below how I enabled the 2nd heater element with the exact same setup as yours. You need to define the following:
```
#define EXTRUDERS 2
```
---
On the following part you must change the `SERVO_NR` to `-1` otherwise you will face issues in case you are using a BLTouch, for example:
```
// A dual extruder that uses a single stepper motor
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER
#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_EXTRUDER)
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_NR -1
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1[, E2, E3]
#if EXTRUDERS > 3
#define SWITCHING_EXTRUDER_E23_SERVO_NR 1
#endif
#endif
// A dual-nozzle that uses a servomotor to raise/lower one (or both) of the nozzles
#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE
#if ENABLED(SWITCHING_NOZZLE)
#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR -1
//#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_E1_SERVO_NR 1 // If two servos are used, the index of the second
#define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1 (single servo) or lowered/raised (dual servo)
#endif
-----------------------------
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1
-----------------------------
```
And finally, you must `#define PID_PARAMS_PER_HOTEND` in order to be able to PID tuning the 2nd heater which will be used for your inline filament dryer.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/03/13 | 775 | 2,921 | <issue_start>username_0: In my custom printer I have probe and nozzle at same height and configured Marlin this way:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 0 }
```
On the bed I've a 2 mm glass. How I need to change the configuration? Do I need to act adding a positive Z offset? like this?
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 2 }
```<issue_comment>username_1: No.
===
You define the Z-Value of the Nozzle to Probe offset mainly to get avoidance of collisions, but it is checked nowhere in the firmware code at all. Usually, the probe is mounted a millimeter or so above the nozzle anyway: you mount it in such a fashion that it triggers when the nozzle has the correct distance to the bed.
If you alter the bed by altering the distance between the nozzle and the metal part of the bed, you might need to alter the physical position of the probe to get the printer to trigger at the correct height, but you don't necessarily need to add a Z-offset.
You might, however, want to include it in the slicer for the case you want to print items in a sequence, which forces most slicers to try to do an error-avoidance pattern.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can define the probe offset (or better the trigger point to bed level distance) in the array definition of `NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET`, but it is not the usual and logical place to do that. Instead you position the probe higher than the nozzle and define the offset later when calibrating the bed level. A positive value is a positive offset, Z+.
---
This answer is intended to be a more generic answer for Z-offset determination. The question is not clear on what kind of Z-probe is used. In case of a touch (or an inductive or a capacitive) probe, a probe trigger point defines how far the probe needs to be from the bed level (the sensor is always placed higher than the nozzle). This trigger point is a measure for the offset and used to determine the distance of the nozzle to the bed print surface (using the offset). Correct installation is trivial, as is the determination of the nozzle to trigger point definition. For a touch sensor, the probing element is either stowed, fully deployed, or pushed in during leveling up to the point that the trigger point is reached and the probe stowes the rest of the pin, see figure:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wdto7.png)
The `M851 Zxx.xx` offset is determined by lowering the nozzle beyond the trigger point until the nozzle hits a sheet of paper. If the stowed position to nozzle distance is used, the distance is too large and the nozzle will dive into the bed on printing. A similar sketch for inductive/capacitive proximity probes can be drawn.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2sGwU.png)
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/03/15 | 2,210 | 6,867 | <issue_start>username_0: I notice that if I print from Cura without preheating the printer, it will first raise the bed temperature and then raise the extruder temperature. The G-code it generates is:
```
M140 S55 ; set bed temperature to 55 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C
M104 S210 ; set hot end temperature to 210 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M109 S210 ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C
```
The "Preheat" feature of Cura presumably send the "set temperature" commands without the corresponding "wait" command.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to do something like this:
```
M104 S210 ; set hot end temperature to 210 C
M140 S55 ; set bed temperature to 55 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M109 S210 ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C
```
Then the bed and extruder heat up simultaneously, and we wait for the higher temperature one *first* assuming that the other will reach its target temperature in the meanwhile.
If this is sound, is there a way to set this in Cura, or would I need to submit a patch?<issue_comment>username_1: I have an [open bug report/feature request](https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1010) for this. Apparently Cura doesn't do it because some of Ultimaker's printers have underpowered power supplies that will shut off if you try to do both at the same time. I've been carrying a patch (note this is against CuraEngine not the Cura GUI) that fixes this:
```
diff --git a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
index de3c771c..ced22017 100644
--- a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
+++ b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
@@ -500,7 +500,7 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage& stor
const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temperature\_layer\_0");
if (bed\_temp != 0)
{
- gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed\_temp, scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temp\_wait"));
+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed\_temp, false);
}
}
}
@@ -547,6 +547,18 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage& stor
}
}
}
+
+ if (scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temp\_prepend"))
+ {
+ if (scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("machine\_heated\_bed"))
+ {
+ const Temperature bed\_temp = scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temperature\_layer\_0");
+ if (bed\_temp != 0)
+ {
+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed\_temp, scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temp\_wait"));
+ }
+ }
+ }
}
}
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This can be achieved with start G-code adaptations, this requires no software changes. Cura, and most slicers, have the ability to use placeholders (basically variables or maybe better: constants). These placeholders are substituted with the correct value upon slicing.
To sequentially heat the bed and hotend you would need to add the following into your start G-code:
```
M117 Heating bed 1st...
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M117 Heating core 2nd...
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
```
For simultaneous heating you need to add:
```
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature to e.g. 55 °C and continue
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hot end temperature to e.g. 210 °C and continue
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to reach e.g. 55 °C
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end temperature to reach e.g. 210 °C
```
Note that Cura is very limited in using placeholders. E.g. Slic3r allows for arithmetic using the placeholders. The following example shows heating the bed first to the bed first layer temperature minus 10 degrees Celsius; then the hotend starts heating and heatbed starts further heating up to the final temperature. For my machine this results in the bed and hotend being at final temperature at the same time; so no time is wasted and printing can start.
```
M117 Heating bed...
M190 S{[first_layer_bed_temperature]-10}
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
M117 Heating core...
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
```
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: It is a little annoying, what `Cura` is doing for me is forcing to wait. On start G-code I have:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***
M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed
M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S200
;*** End Preheating ***M420 S1; Load Mesh Bed Level
```
But on the generated G-code I have:
```
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***
M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed
M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S200
```
In the end I'm changing it directly on G-code what is a pain
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: ```
import os
for filename in os.listdir():
if filename.endswith(".gcode"):
with open(filename, "r") as file:
lines = file.readlines()
for i in range(len(lines)):
if "M140 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M140 S50\n"
elif "M104 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M190 S50\n"
elif "M190 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M104 S185\n"
elif "M109 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M109 S185\n"
lines = [line for line in lines if "M105" not in line] # remove first two M105 lines
with open(filename, "w") as file:
file.writelines(lines)
```
I wrote the above Python script to edit my G-codes in bulk for a plane I'm creating. This makes both extruder and bed heat up at the same time. It changes the places the code comes up in the order that @username_2 listed above. And removes the grab temp `M105` lines. This makes my prints start at least a few minutes faster which is nice when you have many to do.
1. Install python3 in Windows or Linux,
2. Create a file called `something.py`
3. Paste the code above and save
4. Move the script to the same folder of G-code
5. Open cmd or PowerShell or Linux terminal and type `python3 something.py`
or `python3 ./something.py`
It will update all G-codes to heat simultaneously. For modifying yourself edit the temps I have `S50` for the bed and `S185` for the extruder.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/16 | 2,000 | 6,193 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using a 200x200 mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12 V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both pin 2 & 3 of the bed. Heat bed worked properly. But the wires that connects power source to power supply pin on RAMPS were being heated badly. I think the problem is come from heat bed because when I unplugged heat bed, wires were cool down instantly.
Can someone helps me with this problem. I'm just a newbie in this area.<issue_comment>username_1: I have an [open bug report/feature request](https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1010) for this. Apparently Cura doesn't do it because some of Ultimaker's printers have underpowered power supplies that will shut off if you try to do both at the same time. I've been carrying a patch (note this is against CuraEngine not the Cura GUI) that fixes this:
```
diff --git a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
index de3c771c..ced22017 100644
--- a/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
+++ b/src/FffGcodeWriter.cpp
@@ -500,7 +500,7 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage& stor
const Temperature bed_temp = scene.current_mesh_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temperature\_layer\_0");
if (bed\_temp != 0)
{
- gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed\_temp, scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temp\_wait"));
+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed\_temp, false);
}
}
}
@@ -547,6 +547,18 @@ void FffGcodeWriter::processInitialLayerTemperature(const SliceDataStorage& stor
}
}
}
+
+ if (scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temp\_prepend"))
+ {
+ if (scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("machine\_heated\_bed"))
+ {
+ const Temperature bed\_temp = scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temperature\_layer\_0");
+ if (bed\_temp != 0)
+ {
+ gcode.writeBedTemperatureCommand(bed\_temp, scene.current\_mesh\_group->settings.get("material\_bed\_temp\_wait"));
+ }
+ }
+ }
}
}
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This can be achieved with start G-code adaptations, this requires no software changes. Cura, and most slicers, have the ability to use placeholders (basically variables or maybe better: constants). These placeholders are substituted with the correct value upon slicing.
To sequentially heat the bed and hotend you would need to add the following into your start G-code:
```
M117 Heating bed 1st...
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0}
M117 Heating core 2nd...
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0}
```
For simultaneous heating you need to add:
```
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature to e.g. 55 °C and continue
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hot end temperature to e.g. 210 °C and continue
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to reach e.g. 55 °C
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for hot end temperature to reach e.g. 210 °C
```
Note that Cura is very limited in using placeholders. E.g. Slic3r allows for arithmetic using the placeholders. The following example shows heating the bed first to the bed first layer temperature minus 10 degrees Celsius; then the hotend starts heating and heatbed starts further heating up to the final temperature. For my machine this results in the bed and hotend being at final temperature at the same time; so no time is wasted and printing can start.
```
M117 Heating bed...
M190 S{[first_layer_bed_temperature]-10}
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
M117 Heating core...
M109 S[first_layer_temperature_0]
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature]
```
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: It is a little annoying, what `Cura` is doing for me is forcing to wait. On start G-code I have:
```
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***
M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed
M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S200
;*** End Preheating ***M420 S1; Load Mesh Bed Level
```
But on the generated G-code I have:
```
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0
M140 S60
M105
M190 S60
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
;*** Start Dual Nozzle/Bed Preheating ***
M140 S60 ; start preheating the bed
M104 S200 T0 ; start preheating hotend
G28 ; home
M190 S60 ; heat to Cura Bed setting
M109 S200
```
In the end I'm changing it directly on G-code what is a pain
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: ```
import os
for filename in os.listdir():
if filename.endswith(".gcode"):
with open(filename, "r") as file:
lines = file.readlines()
for i in range(len(lines)):
if "M140 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M140 S50\n"
elif "M104 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M190 S50\n"
elif "M190 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M104 S185\n"
elif "M109 S" in lines[i]:
lines[i] = "M109 S185\n"
lines = [line for line in lines if "M105" not in line] # remove first two M105 lines
with open(filename, "w") as file:
file.writelines(lines)
```
I wrote the above Python script to edit my G-codes in bulk for a plane I'm creating. This makes both extruder and bed heat up at the same time. It changes the places the code comes up in the order that @username_2 listed above. And removes the grab temp `M105` lines. This makes my prints start at least a few minutes faster which is nice when you have many to do.
1. Install python3 in Windows or Linux,
2. Create a file called `something.py`
3. Paste the code above and save
4. Move the script to the same folder of G-code
5. Open cmd or PowerShell or Linux terminal and type `python3 something.py`
or `python3 ./something.py`
It will update all G-codes to heat simultaneously. For modifying yourself edit the temps I have `S50` for the bed and `S185` for the extruder.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/18 | 1,389 | 4,459 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an Ender 3 and I have a problem with auto home. I use auto home and then level the bed with the wheels beneath the bed. I then start a print and the first layer is well above the bed. Perhaps about a millimeter. If I stop the print at this point and level the bed so that the first layer prints the normal paper width above the bed, everything works fine.
The stops for the 3 axes seem to be in the right places and there is nothing noticeable obstructing them. When I use auto home it does touch the stops at all 3 axes. My belts seem to be tight and there is no movement of the bed if I try to jiggle it with my hand.
Is there a way to adjust the Z axis so that the auto home elevation and the elevation of first layer of the print will be the same?
This is an example of the first lines of G-code:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:4724
;Filament used: 1.70716m
;Layer height: 0.16
;MINX:96.551
;MINY:96.545
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:138.448
;MAXY:138.455
;MAXZ:100.4
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.5.0
M140 S50
M105
M190 S50
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
```<issue_comment>username_1: The Z stop can be loosened and moved up but it seems weird that it would need to be moved and I don't think that would fix your issue. The Z height should be the same for the auto home and printing. I auto home then disable steppers and slowly move to all 4 corners. I have caught myself resting my arm on the X axis and moving it down. If that happens I manually move the Z until it just barely presses the Z stop in when I hear the button click. I have heard some say that they got a warped bed. I wonder if that's the issue. A glass plate would be a good way to be sure or maybe using a straight edge to check.You could also double check the tightness on the wheels is just right. Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors has a really good setup video called "Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips" that has a few other tips that really helped me get set up well.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: From the added G-code instructions you can see that the printer is instructed to go down to a height of 0.3 mm (`G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position`). If the printer nozzle is not at 0.3 mm height, there must be a Z-offset present in the firmware or incorrect placement of the endstop.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: It sounds like there’s two things that could be going wrong here:
1. Your starting G-code has some code in it that’s making it think that you want to treat a few layers up as `Z0`. If I were you I would minimize the start G-code until you get this sorted out. A quick fix would Be to add the following code to the end of your starting G-code:
```
G28: Homes all axis
G28 Z0: Homes the Z-axis
G29: Auto-bed-leveling (optional if you’ve already attached a leveling device)
G1 Z3 F5000: Raises the Z position up 3 mm relative to where it was (G1 tells the machine to move, Z3 tells it how much to move and along which axis, F5000 is the speed of movement)
G92 Z0.3: Treats the current position as Z = 0.3 (applying an offset of -0.3 and creating a sort of false home for the Z-axis).
```
Any commands made after this simple code will assume the print bed is lower than what it actually is (to account for any original gap between the nozzle and the print bed). If you want to have the nozzle raised, you’ll have to insert a negative value after the `G92` command.
2. You have a Z-offset set in your slicer software. This is a super easy fix if you find that you have one set, and it’s usually just because the slicer is using the preset for an Ender 3 with a glass bed. I would try setting it back to 0 if there is one already and try the G-code above.
Even if the starting G-code I provided doesn’t solve your problem you should still find the Z-Offset setting in your slicer software and set it down -0.1 mm at a time until your printer starts printing in the correct Z-Axis position.
Here’s an All3DP article that helped a ton when I first got started: [Ender 3 (Pro) Z Offset: How to Adjust It](https://m.all3dp.com/2/ender-3-pro-z-offset/)
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/03/19 | 1,176 | 4,542 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got a peculiar issue today, and was looking for some help with it.
Of the six Ender 3s I manage at my college, one of them seems to be **stretching the Y axis** of all the prints I make with it.
Some points about the issue:
* It's variable, but is much more pronounced in larger prints:
+ A raspberry pi frame-mounted case I printed came out too long along the Y-Axis by over 2 mm.
+ To troubleshoot, I printed a calibration cube but the Y-axis was only 0.5 mm longer.
+ It seems to affect only part of some prints; a bit over half of the pi case was stretched, but a section at the top appeared normal (screw holes were perfect circles, but towards the other end they were ellipse-shaped).
* I tried tensioning the Y-belt, and while I noticed it was loose before tightening it, this didn't make a noticeable improvement.
* It doesn't occur in any of the other five Ender 3s, all of which are equal in modifications.
* A re-flash of the Marlin firmware didn't fix the issue. It's a preconfigured Marlin version that I pulled off github based on a recommendation. I flashed this version to try and solve the problem, the previous version was installed by the printers' previous caretaker but the new version didn't help (makes me think we might have both grabbed the same version).
* It means that I can no longer print any components that require high tolerances, as they simply won't fit together.
The most recent print was a 40 mm fan shroud for a "hero me" setup (which I'm working on installing on all six printers).
* I ran two of them, one on the printer with the issue and one on a perfectly functional printer.
* They were run this morning, in identical conditions and started at the same time.
* There are no other structural defects aside from the stretching, it simply looks like a normal, print but as if someone used the photoshop transform tool and pulled it.
Here is a side by side of the two finished prints, comparing them along both the X and Y axes. As you can see, the X axis is perfect on the problem print, but the Y is consistently stretched (visible in the shape of the round cone and the screwholes).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/75J8V.jpg)
This issue has been consistent and I'm honestly stumped, any help is appreciated! If anyone needs me to obtain more documentation or test something, I'll be back in with the printers in the morning (roughly when this post is 10 hours old) and I'm happy to get any documentation needed.<issue_comment>username_1: It is likely you have PU belt and it is likely it stretched in some area. I had all my PU belts finally stretched with big tension and high speed printing.
Now I am using reinforced rubber belts.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If an axis doesn't print the sizes you command it there are basically 2 options causing this.
1. The printer is incorrectly configured,
2. The printer has an hardware issue.
To find out which of the 2 is applicable, you need to look into your setup and into the firmware settings. E.g. from the printers display you can read the amount of steps the stepper needs to make to move the axis 1 mm. Alternatively, send [`M92`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit) through a [terminal](/q/10573) and look at the steps per mm. If X and Y are the same, the firmware is correctly configured and you are facing a hardware issue. Note that for the stock Ender 3 the value for X and Y needs to be 80 steps/mm. **Do not alter these values!!!** These values are based on the mechanical layout and the micro-stepping used by the stepper drivers.
Since you have flashed a stock hex firmware file it is highly improbable that the firmware contains the incorrect steps per mm value for the Y axis (unless you accidentally changed this through the interface/display). This leaves you with a hardware issue. Common reasons that could identify the source of the problem are:
* Loose grub screw of the pulley on the stepper,
* Missing steps, e.g. due to too much friction (if dimensions are smaller, in your case this is not the problem, it is added for completeness),
* Loose, under tensioned belts,
* Stretched belts as a result of over tensioning the belts.
Considering the stretched Y dimensions, the most logical explanation would be that your belts are stretched, you cannot fix this by changing the steps/mm value, it requires mechanical attention; i.e. replacing for new belts.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2020/03/19 | 1,424 | 5,596 | <issue_start>username_0: Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what? Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc?<issue_comment>username_1: Both.
3D printing is especially useful for creating replacement parts for things for which it would otherwise be difficult, expensive, or impossible to obtain a conventionally manufactured one. You may have seen in the news recently the [story about 3D printing being used to replace hospital ventilator valves](https://www.bbc.com/news/technology-51911070) that were not available in time to save patients who needed them, and that normally cost \$11000 from the manufacturer. But the same kind of thing applies to regular household items too. For example, I've replaced broken wheels on my child's toy cars, a broken windshield washer fluid coupling in my car, and various similar things. I'm also planning to replace broken plastic wheel bearings in my vacuum cleaner (the manufacturer's design was atrociously bad and I'll probably adapt it to use real bearings with a 3D printed adapter), a window switch in my car, and lots of other things I can't remember at the moment.
Of course you can do craft and hobby things too. I don't think this really calls for examples/evidence.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what?
>
>
>
Yes, but in a very limited sense. If there is widespread demand for an item, then it will always be available from stores. This is basics economics: if there is enough demand for something, somebody will step in and provide the supply. The store-bought alternative will almost always be of better quality and relatively cheap.
3D printing can be useful to create a niche part that is needed but not readily available, such as replacement parts for appliances long out of production. This unfortunately takes a lot of time since you need to make a 3D model of the part yourself, which also requires considerable skill.
Some examples of items that I made for my home:
* Custom brackets to hang blinds when the store-provided ones did not fit my window.
* A special mounting bracket to more easily hang a ceiling light panel.
* Replacement wheel for a vacuum cleaner.
* Cover plate for a deprecated telecom socket.
* Fix for a broken clothes drying rack.
3D printing can also be used to create "trinkets" such as custom vases or similar objects.
I would say 3D printing is a bit like woodworking as a hobby: it is a skill that can be used to make genuinely useful items, but going to IKEA is a perfectly viable alternative.
>
> Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc?
>
>
>
It is ideal for this. I do not know of anybody who has a 3D printer specifically for home use. However, there are many hobbyists that use 3D printing for another primary purpose that occasionally find their 3D printers useful around the house.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: 3D printing is a **tool**. A really versatile one. I have myself used it in various applications:
Spare parts.
------------
I have broken a couple of appliances in the past and then made spare parts with my printers, skipping on delivery and full replacements. The hanger in the wardrobe got a replacement disk, the vacuum with the broken hinge got the break briged and a couple of other items have gotten simple but effective custom spare parts.
Education
---------
Be it taking the Colosseum into the class or a miniature of a Roman Castra, a Danish longhouse, it is different to have a picture of something or allowing to turn the item around and look at different angles.
And there are ways to teach physics or geography with it too! For example, a simple sextant can be printed and then used to determine the longitude of your school, or you print the fixings of a [Blackburn Pendulum](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2804504) or a [harmonograph](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3991322) and ask your students what influences the patterns of the complex shapes that appear.
In languages, the use larger (~30 mm) dice with the forms (for example in Latin: ego, tu, is/ea/id, nos, vos, ei/eae/ea) or tenses generates questions for the students in training and self-study.
And then there is the use to make custom boxes to transport all the learning aids.
Cosplay & LARP
--------------
I have printed decoration and art pieces for Cosplayers and LARPers that would take a lot of handiwork to make otherwise. Be it helmets, masks or shoulder armor, 3D printing allows manufacturing complex items for such.
Engineering & Tools
-------------------
I have not used it *myself* a lot, but on the 2016 SMM, I had talked with a fluid dynamics laboratory that used (miniature) FDM prints of static propellers to test an evaluate designs in water basins.
Similarily, on the 2018 didacta, I had seen projects by several universities to combine engineering with education and getting basic training in engineering into schools as extracurricular activities.
There are numerous tools for [spacing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0olWXL7yMCE) and such that you can easily make or adjust to your needs. A friend of mine works in wood professionally, and they printed themselves drill-jigs for parts they repeatedly use.
Art & Decoration
----------------
Here 3D printing can shine, and I have made pure decorative objects too.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/03/22 | 720 | 2,258 | <issue_start>username_0: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwWuN.jpg)
So these past few days I have been 3D printing again with my Ender 3 with PETG and 0.4 mm nozzle and while I have been using the same setting as usual I am seeing an unusual amount of stringing between the prints. Does anyone know why? If you're wondering regarding the settings here they are, I'm using Cura for slicing, see options:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ialqzm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc2Blm.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SpNZm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6H1M6m.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KMAQm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWib6m.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Petg it stringy material, all I can do is keep it dry to prevent blob. but I live in hot country with high moisture so I decide to keep filament in heat dryer box while print. It help a lot.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The travel speed of 160 mm/s is a big red flag. PETG is not tolerant of a hot nozzle moving over it at high speeds, especially unretracted (combing). The nozzle will drag material in a stuttering pattern, every so often, marring the surface and pulling what it dug up into strings.
Lower the travel speed to the same as the print speed, and then experiment with whether you can increase it without problems. I would not try going over 80 mm/s and probably not even over 60.
For what it's worth, this *sounds like* softened/molten PETG is a non-newtonian fluid, where at low stress (slow moving nozzle pushing/pulling) it deforms gracefully, but at high stress (fast moving nozzle) it strongly resists deformation and has a discontinuous breaking point. A quick Googling turned up this article, [Thermal, Rheological and Mechanical Properties of PETG/rPETG Blends](https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s10924-019-01544-6), which might explain what's happening.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/03/23 | 1,059 | 4,219 | <issue_start>username_0: I am working on a project that requires an enclosure that I am thinking to prototype using a 3D printer (which is pretty easy and overall awesome).
My question is simply whether this same model can be used later on for mass production (i.e. mold injection)? What adjustment (if any) need to be done to model between prototype and mass.prod. stages? What areas in design to look out for that can make model viable for 3D printing non-viable for mass production?<issue_comment>username_1: That's a hard No.
Models used in industrial injection molding are very specific to the process sometimes even the machine. When they build those molds they have to include constructs like spurs and runners; things to get the molten plastic to where it needs to go. Further the wall thickness of an injection molded part can only be so thick, because the plastic will contract when cooled, which will distort the final part if it is too thick.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I respectfully disagree with the hard no answer. There are many casting methods, some of which are not compatible with 3D printed parts and at least one that definitely is. See investment casting, aka lost wax casting. (Ref 1) Also search YouTube for "investment casting using 3D printing". Formlabs, the company that makes the Form 2 and Form 3 3D printers, sells a 3d printable resin specifically for investment casting. (Ref 2).
There is a whole world of casting, so I will describe, as an example, a very simple process that will make a replica of your 3D printed part. I will briefly address the steps necessary for making multiple copies at the end of my answer. First you need to add a cylindrical extension to the shape that will create a sprue. See the two models shown in the image below. Next make a foil cup a little larger than your 3D printed part and place your part in the cup, suspended by the sprue. Pour liquid plaster of Paris (POP) into the cup, covering the 3D printed part, with just the top of the sprue sticking out. Once the POP has hardened, you can remove the 3D printed part by dissolving it in an organic solvent (acetone for acrylic) or by heating the part to several hundred degrees C so it will burn out (convert to gasses). You will now have a block of POP with a void shaped like your 3D printed part plus a cylindrical hole to the outside that acts as a sprue. Once you have heated the POP to drive out any remaining water, you're ready to cast. Fill the void (via the sprue hole) with, for example, copper powder and heat it to well above its melting point. Once everything has cooled, lightly tap the POP with a small hammer or equivalent, to remove it, leaving your final part plus the sprue. You can remove any remaining POP with some warm baking soda and patience. The final step is to cut or saw off the sprue shape.
Please understand that the process described above is just to give you a basic idea of the process. There are many alternate or additional steps that may produce a better final product. Also, the process described should work of the rook model shown on the left of the image below, but not the model on the right, which has a small hole through the middle. There are ways to solve that issue, but as I said before, there is a whole world of this stuff.
Casting is a way to create parts out of materials that you otherwise could not 3D print directly (on a home budget). For mass production, you would need to start with an inverse of the final shape. For example, a cylindrical slug with a rook-shaped void. Then you would use the investment casting process to create a mold out of a rigid material that you could use to, for example, create rubber copies of the original part that could, in turn, be used as the "wax" for copies in the final material.
I urge you to experiment, maybe following one of the tutorials on YouTube. Good luck.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xii6A.png)
Ref 1 - Investment Casting
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting>
Ref 2 - FormLabs 3D printable casting resin
<https://support.formlabs.com/s/article/Using-Castable-Resin?language=en_US>
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/24 | 1,563 | 5,399 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to make an order with this configuration
* Arduino MEGA 2650 R3
* Ramps 1.6 Plus
* 2 TMC2130
* 2 Stepper motors 17hs3401
* 1 Fan
But I am not sure what voltage and current would be enough to make it work. The Ramps 1.6+ board has an input of 12V as you can see in the picture, but I have read that [other people](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9911/tmc2130-external-vm-ramps1-4) had to increase the voltage with a DC-DC converter.
So, would be 12V and 15A enough to make work that configuration?<issue_comment>username_1: The easiest way to know how powerful the PSU should be is to download from <https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim> the Excel workbook which simulates the power absorbed by the stepper motor. Input the motor specifications, check in the graph the max speed at which you plan to run it, check the absorbed power, add 20% for the various losses. Once you know the absorbed power, you can multiply by the number of stepper motors and obtain the current required, add 20% not to stress the PSU too much.
In you case, this is the result
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yoKsG.jpg)
Your motor will never absorb more than 7 W, 14 W for the two motors, around 20 W considering losses in the motors and overcapacity of the PSU. This means that around 2 A PSU will be perfect for your setup.
---
*Previous answer, which may not be completely correct but still provides a useful background knowledge:*
The TMC drivers limit the current to the value you set, which is most of the time lower than the datasheet. In no case you will need more than 1.3 A \* sqrt(2) \* 2 motors = 3.6 A. In fact, you won't need this much either.
When there is no field in a coil, the driver applies full voltage, but the current is low (initially zero) so you don't hit the 1.3 A per coil.
The current increases (the higher the maximum voltage available to the driver, the faster it increases) and the driver (probably) keeps the full voltage until the preset current is reached. Just a moment before that, the current is almost there, but you still have full voltage from the power supply. This is the theoretical worst case, but it applies only for a very short amount of time.
As soon as the current reaches the preset, the driver "cuts the voltage" to keep 2.4 ohm \* 1.3 A = 3.2 V (because V = R \* I). This means that the power supply sees 3.2 A/12 V\*1.3 A = 0.35 A.
When running, the motors almost never start from zero to max current: both coils are powered and when one increases, the other one decreases.
In fact, the microstepping makes the steppers act more or less like AC motors with two phases. This means that overall the current is the max current per phase multipled by sqrt(2). Also, when using microstepping one phase (coil) is not completely shut off, but two of them work at the same time (with different current levels). This means that in total one compensates the other, and the power supply only provides, more or less, 0.35 \* 1.4 = 0.5 A per stepper. You have two, so it's 1 A total, therefore 2 A PSU considering the inefficiencies.
A very easy and complete explanation is provided [here](https://www.njr.com/semicon/PDF/application_notes/Drive_circuit_basics_APP_E.pdf):
>
> By controlling the duty cycle of the chopper, an average voltage and
> an average current equal to the nominal motor voltage and current are
> created.
>
>
> ...
>
>
> As the current increases, a voltage develops across the
> sensing resistor, which is fed back to the comparator. At the
> predetermined level, defined by the voltage at the reference input,
> the comparator resets the flipflop, which turns off the output
> transistor. The current decreases until the clock oscillator triggers
> the flip-flops, which turns on the output transistor again, and the
> cycle is repeated
>
>
>
So you never have coming out of the PSU more than the preset current.
>
> **Supply current is not the same as the motor current in a copper drive**. It is the motor current multiplied by the dutycycle, at
> standstill typically Isupply = IM · ( VM ⁄ Vsupply )
>
>
> ...
>
>
> Depending on
> how the H-bridge is switched during the turn-off period, the current
> will either recirculate through one transistor and one diode (path 2),
> giving the slow current decay, or recirculate back through the power
> supply (path 3). The advantage of **feeding the power back to the
> power supply** is the fast current decay and the ability to quickly
> reduce to a lower current level.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Yes, A power supply that can deliver 12 volts and up to 15 Amps will work. Since that board says 12 V, that means it is designed to work at 12V. The components on the board might not survive 24V. The TMC stepper motor drivers specified can tolerate a max of 2.5 amps. That current draw is dependent on the per phase winding impedance of the motors that are used. @2.4 ohms phase resistance, that 12 volts could generate a max of 5 amps (more than the Trinamic can tolerate). Therefore, if you configure the stepper drivers to operate at more than 50% power, they will overheat and shutdown.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/03/26 | 513 | 1,808 | <issue_start>username_0: I have the original Prusa i3m3 printer. Prusa recommends cleaning the bed before each print with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol), with only occasional cleaning with acetone. The textured bed prohibits using acetone.
Given the SARS-COV-2 situation and COVID-19, isopropanol is impossible to find, and will not be in stock on shelves in the US for months.
What would you suggest as an alternative that might still be found on store shelves?<issue_comment>username_1: **Ethanol** (Ethyl Alcohol) should work just fine as long as it's around 80% or more. It's very similar to isopropanol as a cleaning solvent. What you're basically doing is removing any stray grease from the bed with a solvent that evaporates quickly.
**Methanol** would also probably work. It's very poisonous though, and shouldn't come into contact with your skin, so it requires a bit more careful handling. Methanol also has the benefit that it can't be used for hand sanitizer (since it's absorbed through the skin), so supplies shouldn't run out.
Look for alternative sources, for example, methanol is often sold as de-icing agent for pneumatic brakes on trucks. Just make sure it's pure alcohol without anything funky added.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Dish soap will remove grease very well. Once you rinse it with a moist sponge and dry with a clean cloth most residues will be gone.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: The [Prusa manual](https://cdn.prusa3d.com/downloads/manual/prusa3d_manual_mk3s_en_3_12.pdf) also states that you can use Windex for PET-G:
>
> use Windex instead as it degreases less thoroughly.
>
>
>
Also works with PLA, I've tested it, but for assured adherence, I also use a little swipe of the glue stick included with the printer.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/27 | 547 | 2,073 | <issue_start>username_0: I work with Fusion360 for designing lots of things. Recently I learned how to work with parameters that I can easily modify all at once, allowing to pretty much make easily customizable pieces.
Now, Thingiverse wants customizer pieces in the shape of `.SCAD` files, and some people just can't work with Fusion360 (`.F3D`) or proper `.STEP` files that can be imported by most CAD programs.
I have no experience with OpenSCAD. Can I import my `.STEP` into openSCAD, retain my parameters and export it as a `.SCAD`, and if yes, how?<issue_comment>username_1: No, you cannot import STEP nor Fusion360 files in OpenSCAD.
OpenSCAD [currently supports](https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Importing_Geometry):
**3D formats**
* STL (both ASCII and Binary)
* OFF
* AMF [Note: Requires version 2019.05]
* 3MF [Note: Requires version 2019.05]
**2D formats**
* DXF
* SVG [Note: Requires version 2019.05]
**Other**
* CSG can be imported using `include<>` or loaded like an SCAD file, PNG can be imported using `surface()`
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Even though OpenSCAD can import a variety of formats, the file structure will not be accepted by Thingiverse in the manner presented by the OP.
OpenSCAD is a text-based description language. One creates parameters assigned to specific aspects of a model and implements those parameters to create the desired shapes/components by typing in a text editor. The native editor for OpenSCAD provides for some management, but notepad or equivalent would work just as well.
The file format of OpenSCAD is text. None of the CAD type modeling programs will provide equivalent text output.
For your objective, you'd have to learn the basics of OpenSCAD (not particularly difficult) and reference the parameters in the STEP files, then assign them to the appropriate labels in OpenSCAD.
If you have particularly complex designs, it can be a handful. It can also be rewarding when you change a parameter as a test and the complete model follows as expected.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/03/29 | 654 | 2,527 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm new to 3D printing and have bought an Ender 3. I have printed a few good prints but I'm noticing a worsening issue:
When I select "autohome" the axes head towards their limit switches, but the y axis in particular seems to slam into the limit switch, bending it away, meaning that the platform bounces off and doesn't activate the limit switch a second time
This causes the machine to slam against the back over and over until the limit switch is triggered or power is removed.
I've replaced the limit switch twice
I've tried supergluing the limit switch to its PCB but even with a needle and patience this caused the limit switch to be ruined
What can I do?
Edit: Here are some photos of the switch (2nd replacement). The OEM switch also did the same thing, but I don't have photos of that. The screws are loose in these photos, but this is just because my Allen key is lost - the previous two switches had the screws reasonably tightened with the correct Allen key, provided in the box[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/myOyr.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJ7vM.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3JHa.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Personally, I have found that if you bend the arm of the limit switch out, it gets triggered earlier and solves this issue for good, (broke a switch clean off at the bend on the pins, soldered old switch back onto the pins in the board) bent the arm to a greater angle, so the striker triggers 3-5 mm earlier, problem averted!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The solution seems to be simply triggering the switch earlier, and making sure that it is triggered. The thin arm can end up bent over the actual button of the switch, meaning that the arm can be touching the switch without actually "pressing" the switch. For some, bending the arm seems to have worked, but for me I had to wedge a small piece of plastic between the arm and the switch button, meaning that it is a lot more reliable when you press the switch. The piece isn't stuck in there in any way, simply held by friction. This isn't the best solution as you have to keep an eye on that piece with every homing, but until a better answer is available, I recommend this solution as it was more reliable than bending the arm out or into a different shape.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2020/03/29 | 855 | 3,076 | <issue_start>username_0: I use an Ender 3, with cheap Amazon "Eryone PLA", which states a range from 190-220 °C, 1.75 mm dia. I have had this for about a year.
I use the rough build plate, not the glass. I have tried my best to level the bed but I am an amateur
I was originally getting poor adhesion so I cleaned the bed, levelled it, increased filament temp to 196 °C and heated the bed to 40 °C, with no fans in a house around 20 °C with not much airflow.
This helped adhesion, but my layers are very messy - the first perimeter may adhere correctly, but subsequent layers curl off, meaning the inner passes lift off the build plate. Attempting to persevere, pulling out these regions causes the blobby, ridged mess shown below. This is still the first layer.
I have noticed the extruder makes a knocking noise every so often, and the edges of prints can be so thin they are translucent.
I've browsed the web for common 3D printing errors but nothing I've found or tried has helped.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOT5H.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: This is clearly overextrusion relative to the volume the material is being deposited into, but that doesn't necessarily mean your extrusion rate is wrong. It could be:
* Nozzle smashed down into the bed (bed way too high) but somehow still extruding
* Problem in Z axis movement preventing the head from moving up the right amount for each layer (possibly not moving up at all?)
* Extrusion (flow) increased significantly above 100% in slicer
* Wrong extruder steps/mm setting (usually controlled on printer not slicer, though you can send a setting in the start gcode)
* Misconfigued filament diameter (unlikely since there's no common setting smaller than 1.75 mm; larger setting would under-extrude)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd add to [R..'s answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13272): It could be:
* temperature is too high - which would cause the melted filament to flow a bit freely
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Bad filament is my answer. I bought PRLine and both print terrible like your picture. Suspect 2 factors, one is that the line is less than 1.75, so they underextrude and so you see those lines and in some cases gaps, second is the material itself is slippery suggesting to me that it has florinated additives.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I just recently got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 v2) and am also using the Eryone PLA filament. After the first week, I was having bed adhesion problems as well. I think part of the problem is the bedsprings become loose rather quickly.
Here is my current solution, leveling the bed with a receipt paper (thinner than regular 20lb bond paper) and using blue painter's tape on the stock glass bed.
Since using this setup, I have not had any major issues with my prints. I have ordered new bedsprings ([Ogrimmar Yellow Springs](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FY47BX7)) and hope these will be a more lasting solution to the loose bedsprings.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/03/29 | 945 | 3,548 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to import an STL file, I created in FreeCAD. It has a hole in the hull of the object and behind that hole there are two pins inside the object (see attached FreeCAD screenshot).
When I import the STL in Cura, there are no walls around the whole object where there is the hole in the hull (see attached Cura screenshots). However the wall and the hole are visible in light grey, Cura just doesn't print it.
Update:
I understand the problem. It's not a watertight solid. I found a way to import it somewhat fine using meshmixer to create a hollow with an offset which makes the outer Hull actually have a thickness to it. Now the problem is, that's not really what I want. The result in cura now can't be printed with infill since the actual inside of the model is only within the walls. Also cura sees both sides of the wall as outer Perimeter. I understand the problem but actually am looking for a way to just prevent printing part of the regular model's wall.. In other words: I would basically like to set the whall line count to zero in that particular area. I just tried to use the support blocker and "Modify settings for overlap" but that doesn't do anything.
CURA:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrCAY.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ETuW.png)
FreeCAD:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lddxh.png)<issue_comment>username_1: This is clearly overextrusion relative to the volume the material is being deposited into, but that doesn't necessarily mean your extrusion rate is wrong. It could be:
* Nozzle smashed down into the bed (bed way too high) but somehow still extruding
* Problem in Z axis movement preventing the head from moving up the right amount for each layer (possibly not moving up at all?)
* Extrusion (flow) increased significantly above 100% in slicer
* Wrong extruder steps/mm setting (usually controlled on printer not slicer, though you can send a setting in the start gcode)
* Misconfigued filament diameter (unlikely since there's no common setting smaller than 1.75 mm; larger setting would under-extrude)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd add to [R..'s answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13272): It could be:
* temperature is too high - which would cause the melted filament to flow a bit freely
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Bad filament is my answer. I bought PRLine and both print terrible like your picture. Suspect 2 factors, one is that the line is less than 1.75, so they underextrude and so you see those lines and in some cases gaps, second is the material itself is slippery suggesting to me that it has florinated additives.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I just recently got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 v2) and am also using the Eryone PLA filament. After the first week, I was having bed adhesion problems as well. I think part of the problem is the bedsprings become loose rather quickly.
Here is my current solution, leveling the bed with a receipt paper (thinner than regular 20lb bond paper) and using blue painter's tape on the stock glass bed.
Since using this setup, I have not had any major issues with my prints. I have ordered new bedsprings ([Ogrimmar Yellow Springs](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FY47BX7)) and hope these will be a more lasting solution to the loose bedsprings.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/03/29 | 2,377 | 8,480 | <issue_start>username_0: I fired up my printer again last night to print something (Printrbot LC that I have customized), and happened to notice the Octopi instance still had a file that I printed ~5 years ago. Also, I noticed i had files from ~2013 when I got started. My printer is from that time, so keep that in mind.
I've noticed that sometimes I will see a Y axis shift, and then the print will correct itself. It did it again last night. Since this had happened before, I thought maybe the wires for the heated beds were getting snagged on something, so I made sure they were out of the way, and made sure they had proper strain relief before printing [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3086428/files).
However, about 1 cm up the Z axis, my print had a 1-2 mm shift of the Y axis for ~2-3 mm, and then corrected\* itself somehow.
**The Question**
----------------
What is this kind of problem called? What should I look for to try to troubleshoot it? Let's make sure to include the possibility that one of my upgrades has gone awry to leave no stone unturned.
Stay on Target
--------------
My printer probably also has other problems, and that's fine to point them out after addressing my primary concern.
\*Almost completely corrected itself. Maybe .5-1 mm off.
This is the print.
------------------
It'll be serviceable after some filing. It's from this thing.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNd6N.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JY1sE.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N2kh.jpg)
This is my printer
------------------
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGxe3.jpg)
Upgrades
--------
* Printrbot LC, I want to say I bought in 2010. It was a kit and I assembled it.
* This pic is from 2014 and it's about the same.
* I've extended the physical Z height, but supposedly the firmware needs to be updated to make use of it. I would still need to adjust the wiring too.
* I've extended the Y axis (front to back).
* As part of extending the Y axis, I added a 2nd heated bed. It's not plugged in, and I only use the one which is the one closest to the camera. There is room for a 3rd bed, but that was an accidental bit of engineering.
* There was a lot of bow in the bed, even with the added support. I manually adapted [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:55053) to add in a bearing to support the bed near where the hotend was. Manually with a dremel, super glue, etc.
* I have noticed a clicking where the support bearing touches a screw holding the aluminum rail to the wood, but that would only impact prints for the second bed. The print I am asking about was in the middle of the primary bed, and far away from this.
* I updated the belt and pulley to the G2(?) belts. Those are standard now, but this was an upgrade for this bot.
* I added an additional support bearing for the hotends, which reduced the X axis slightly.
* Added fans for the part and the incoming filament.
Misc
----
* Bed is manually leveled by adjusting screws and nuts
* Glass is held to the bed by small aligator clips
* I print on bare glass with purple glue
* I am using PLA+, hotend at 220 °C, and bed at 60 °C
* I have an old version of OctoPi on a Raspberry Pi 1 controlling the printer
* I sliced last night with Cura 4.1.0
* I use 3 mm filament
* Printer has a .4 or .5 mm hotend, whatever was stock (I don't recall, and I don't see the setting in Cura)
* Printing at .2 mm height
* I have noticed some wear on the 3D printed gears for the extruder, but they still seem to be working. I've been meaning to print some spares, and have printed a spare bigger one in case they fail.
* The printer has wooden 1x4 supports in one corner, so none of the PVC cage moves at all now. It didn't move much before unless I was pushing on it.
* I printed and screwed in some stops that go around the feet of the printer to prevent it from moving around.
* The printer is very rigid with the above feet stops, the wooden supports, and the ~20lb roll of filament on top of the Z axis.
* The y axis has some friction and some spots are tighter than others, so I will keep looking at the mechanics of the bed to see what I can do.
Things I have tried so far
--------------------------
* Tried multiple things at a time, because screw science lol. Close to order of operations below, but not perfect.
* Upgraded Cura to 4.5.0
* Printed multiple times. Still have the problem.
* Rotated print by 180 degrees. Same problem in same direction, at same height. Towards the Y axis zero.
* Adjusted flow to 97%, so now I'm not overextruding. The screw holes come out as screw holes, and the top surface looks mostly normal. Once I'm done with this print, I might try 95%.
* Cut a zip tie that may have been catching on bed clips.
* Added more clips to hold the glass to the bed. Removed old clips that were worn out and may have been impacting the gantry.
* Adjusted the tension on the screw that holds the bed and the guide rods, to reduce friction of the guide rods and their bearings. This reduced friction, but did not have an effect on the print.
* Rotated print by 90 degrees. Same problem in same direction, at same height.
* Watched the printer as it was printing the strange part. There were no mechanical collisions, and things seemed normal.
More thoughts
-------------
* I will look into spinning up a new Octoprint server on a newer Raspberry Pi to see if that helps.
* I am having a hard time finding examples of layer shift that didn't 100% kill the print. The fact that this corrects itself makes me think it's not the usual mechanical problems associated with layer shift.
* I have added the other thing to the print (from the same designer and thing page), and we'll see if they both have the problem, or what else might happen.
Updated pics
------------
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJzOR.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tVqp.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd97B.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPShI.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: This is clearly overextrusion relative to the volume the material is being deposited into, but that doesn't necessarily mean your extrusion rate is wrong. It could be:
* Nozzle smashed down into the bed (bed way too high) but somehow still extruding
* Problem in Z axis movement preventing the head from moving up the right amount for each layer (possibly not moving up at all?)
* Extrusion (flow) increased significantly above 100% in slicer
* Wrong extruder steps/mm setting (usually controlled on printer not slicer, though you can send a setting in the start gcode)
* Misconfigued filament diameter (unlikely since there's no common setting smaller than 1.75 mm; larger setting would under-extrude)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd add to [R..'s answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13272): It could be:
* temperature is too high - which would cause the melted filament to flow a bit freely
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Bad filament is my answer. I bought PRLine and both print terrible like your picture. Suspect 2 factors, one is that the line is less than 1.75, so they underextrude and so you see those lines and in some cases gaps, second is the material itself is slippery suggesting to me that it has florinated additives.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I just recently got my first 3D printer (Ender 3 v2) and am also using the Eryone PLA filament. After the first week, I was having bed adhesion problems as well. I think part of the problem is the bedsprings become loose rather quickly.
Here is my current solution, leveling the bed with a receipt paper (thinner than regular 20lb bond paper) and using blue painter's tape on the stock glass bed.
Since using this setup, I have not had any major issues with my prints. I have ordered new bedsprings ([Ogrimmar Yellow Springs](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07FY47BX7)) and hope these will be a more lasting solution to the loose bedsprings.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/03/29 | 700 | 2,350 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm new to 3D Printing and recently purchased an Ender 3D PRO I'm having an issue with the filament guide tube getting pushed out of the nozzle on the feeding mechanism. The assembly instructions don't include a whole lot of detail about installing this guide tube but there are blue clips that were included along with the spare nozzle. There are no instructions on where to use these blue clips and I have a hunch this might be the problem.<issue_comment>username_1: The blue clips stick in the connector on the extruder end of the feed tube. They are to keep it from opening as the printer extrudes and retracts filament.
To install them, push them in between the white part of the fitting on the feed tube (not the hot end). You should only need one or two, and they are all of varying thicknesses. If you're not familiar with these fittings, I found a [YouTube video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BummHzgf5c) on how to use them.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsuQ4.jpg)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The clips or collet clips as they are called are to secure the Bowden tube more solidly to improve printer extrusion; more specifically: extruder retraction performance.
E3D has explained this very nicely on their site under [Bowden tube physics](https://e3d-online.com/blog/2017/10/27/bowden-tube-physics/):
>
> For the bowden couplings (which can have some wiggle room in them) we are introducing collet clips, which slide under the toothed collet part of the coupling that physically holds the tube and locks it into place with a little pre-tension to boot. This reduces coupling lash to near zero as the collet and tube it is holding are locked into place.
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YobdM.png)
From the [animated gif from the E3D website](https://i.imgur.com/RTWnzB5.gif) (animated gifs are not allowed on SE) it can be seen that without clips, the tube can move in the tube coupling:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfzfWm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OpuTm.png)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/03/31 | 783 | 2,562 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently my RAMPS power connector caught fire while heating the heated bed. I suspect this was a defect caused by the connector, and de-soldered/removed it as best I could. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I'm looking for advice on whether It is possible to re-solder the power connectors directly onto the board, or I'm just risking another fire. Here are pictures of the top and bottom.
<issue_comment>username_1: The blue clips stick in the connector on the extruder end of the feed tube. They are to keep it from opening as the printer extrudes and retracts filament.
To install them, push them in between the white part of the fitting on the feed tube (not the hot end). You should only need one or two, and they are all of varying thicknesses. If you're not familiar with these fittings, I found a [YouTube video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BummHzgf5c) on how to use them.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JsuQ4.jpg)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The clips or collet clips as they are called are to secure the Bowden tube more solidly to improve printer extrusion; more specifically: extruder retraction performance.
E3D has explained this very nicely on their site under [Bowden tube physics](https://e3d-online.com/blog/2017/10/27/bowden-tube-physics/):
>
> For the bowden couplings (which can have some wiggle room in them) we are introducing collet clips, which slide under the toothed collet part of the coupling that physically holds the tube and locks it into place with a little pre-tension to boot. This reduces coupling lash to near zero as the collet and tube it is holding are locked into place.
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YobdM.png)
From the [animated gif from the E3D website](https://i.imgur.com/RTWnzB5.gif) (animated gifs are not allowed on SE) it can be seen that without clips, the tube can move in the tube coupling:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfzfWm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OpuTm.png)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/04/01 | 705 | 2,489 | <issue_start>username_0: I usually use `Slic3r 1.3` but now I'm trying the new `PrusaSlicer 2.2` that offers new features.
I see that PrusaSlicer creates a lot of support material when compared to `Slic3r`:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQxar.jpg "screenshot comparison of Slic3r and PrusaSlicer sliced 3D model")
this involves two problems:
1. A lot of material is wasted
2. The structure is very difficult to separate from the model
This is my configuration panel in Prusa:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lRm2K.jpg "Screenshot of PrusaSlicer configuration panel")
Is it just a settings problem?<issue_comment>username_1: In my opinion, PrusaSlicer aims for the most robust printing process at the cost of a higher demand for material in the standard configuration.
I totally agree with [@0scar](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13294/prusa-slicer-and-support-material#comment23677_13294) that the small pillars have a high tendency of falling over with increasing height of the print.
To handle the waste of material you could use the feature "Paint-On Supports" (since version 2.3) to tell the software where support material has to be used. The feature can be found on the left panel while on "3D-Editor View". This is an extra step to prepare your model, but to speed up your post-processing I think it should be worth it. Prusa improved the modifier by "you get what you click".
If you want to stay in Version 2.2, I think you have to use the generic modifiers, which are a lot more time-consuming to set up.
[Paint-on supports @Prusa Knowledge Base](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/paint-on-supports_168584)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Additionally for those who may not know, (I'm fully aware this post is a few years old) there are improvements that come with PrusaSlicer 2.6 in terms of options for cutting prints along a plane, adding pegs to those cut prints and organic supports, just for those who may not be aware.
Additional details can be found in the article from Tom's Hardware "[New Features Added to PrusaSlicer 2.6 Alpha Release](https://www.tomshardware.com/news/new-features-added-to-prusaslicer-26-alpha-release)".
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/02 | 1,105 | 4,094 | <issue_start>username_0: Would it be posible to design something that is as flexible and that can be printed with PLA that would work as a cloth? I did some research and found that there was a company named Electroloom but that didn't make it. I'm not looking for anything fine, just something that would work for wiping<issue_comment>username_1: Maybe you would be better off with TPU or some other type of flexible material...
I have been able to print PLA and have it flex quite a bit, but that was an ~0.2mm single layer print, I guess maybe up to 0.3-0.4mm should still be a little bit flexible, but not much. Also since you want it to wipe things, maybe you should look if TPU even has all the properties required for that as Carl mentioned in the comments.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can not 3D print that because there is no nozzle or method for producing filaments of the required size. A few microns at least. You might be able to spin molten pla like cotton candy and it might absorb; but I doubt it.
<https://phys.org/news/2010-05-cotton-candy-machine-tiny-nanofibers.html>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFHQd.jpg)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: printed PLA will not behave like cloth.
---------------------------------------
Hard PLA can not behave like cloth, and even a 0.1 mm sheet of PLA will behave like a plastic sheet, not like cloth. In itself, it will always be a hard material.
printed PLA can be combined with fabric
---------------------------------------
Printing a hard plastic onto a thin mesh of fabric can create a compound material. For example, this has been used to create "scales" that are embedded on the fabric, for example with an [octagon setup](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948315). These materials have limited bending areas and can, if designed well and made from small scales, almost fall similar to a stiff normal fabric, or have totally different behavior.
Only the printed on fabric will be able to absorb moisture, a hard lip printed onto the material will be able to push liquids and solids. If instead of PLA a TPE was used, the lip would deform to have contact and act as a wiper.
With clever design, this can even be used to imitate [fantastical scales](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755451).
Printed PLA scales can imitate cloth
------------------------------------
[NASA](https://www.jpl.nasa.gov/news/space-fabric-links-fashion-and-engineering) worked on a 3D printed scale mail, which offers a somewhat solid surface when under no extra load but shows special movement patterns when exposed to forces. For example, a curtain of these printed scales could, under force, always push itself to the left side and assume a shape that funnels an airstream to the right. These 3D printed scales are at times referred to as "printed chainmail" or "printed fabric", depending on how they fall and how large the individual elements are.
The result of inquiries into these print in place solutions range from designs that use techniques used in [classic flexible jewelry band designs](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:399474) and [European 4:1 Chainmail patterns](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867241) that fall exactly like their metal counterparts over designs inspired by the NASA method that [almost behave like a leather](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3095799) in a limited movement range to more exotic ones that [imitate in one axis the movement of tank threads while being a little stiffer in the other](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942351)
There is spun PLA cloth...
--------------------------
[PLA can be spun into yarn](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13312/8884) in a similar process to the making of other polymer-based yarns. The resulting thread is 0.01 mm and thinner and then can be weaved using traditional methods. In this thickness, it behaves exactly like cloth, but that is an order of magnitude thinner than the thinnest nozzle available on the commercial market (0.1 mm) and unprintable.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/03 | 1,183 | 4,348 | <issue_start>username_0: My printer is calibrated for a certain clearance from the heated bed, which is chosen based on PLA.
I would like to try to increase it for the first layer for PETG, so that adhesion is reduced. The printer has M5 screws with 4000 steps/mm, so the resolution clearly allows that.
I don't want to modify the printer, I would like a G-Code or another option that I can apply in Prusa slicer in association with the specific filament when desired. I don't want to change the flow rate of the first layer, only the "zero" distance.
How can I do that?<issue_comment>username_1: Maybe you would be better off with TPU or some other type of flexible material...
I have been able to print PLA and have it flex quite a bit, but that was an ~0.2mm single layer print, I guess maybe up to 0.3-0.4mm should still be a little bit flexible, but not much. Also since you want it to wipe things, maybe you should look if TPU even has all the properties required for that as Carl mentioned in the comments.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can not 3D print that because there is no nozzle or method for producing filaments of the required size. A few microns at least. You might be able to spin molten pla like cotton candy and it might absorb; but I doubt it.
<https://phys.org/news/2010-05-cotton-candy-machine-tiny-nanofibers.html>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VFHQd.jpg)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: printed PLA will not behave like cloth.
---------------------------------------
Hard PLA can not behave like cloth, and even a 0.1 mm sheet of PLA will behave like a plastic sheet, not like cloth. In itself, it will always be a hard material.
printed PLA can be combined with fabric
---------------------------------------
Printing a hard plastic onto a thin mesh of fabric can create a compound material. For example, this has been used to create "scales" that are embedded on the fabric, for example with an [octagon setup](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2948315). These materials have limited bending areas and can, if designed well and made from small scales, almost fall similar to a stiff normal fabric, or have totally different behavior.
Only the printed on fabric will be able to absorb moisture, a hard lip printed onto the material will be able to push liquids and solids. If instead of PLA a TPE was used, the lip would deform to have contact and act as a wiper.
With clever design, this can even be used to imitate [fantastical scales](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755451).
Printed PLA scales can imitate cloth
------------------------------------
[NASA](https://www.jpl.nasa.gov/news/space-fabric-links-fashion-and-engineering) worked on a 3D printed scale mail, which offers a somewhat solid surface when under no extra load but shows special movement patterns when exposed to forces. For example, a curtain of these printed scales could, under force, always push itself to the left side and assume a shape that funnels an airstream to the right. These 3D printed scales are at times referred to as "printed chainmail" or "printed fabric", depending on how they fall and how large the individual elements are.
The result of inquiries into these print in place solutions range from designs that use techniques used in [classic flexible jewelry band designs](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:399474) and [European 4:1 Chainmail patterns](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2867241) that fall exactly like their metal counterparts over designs inspired by the NASA method that [almost behave like a leather](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3095799) in a limited movement range to more exotic ones that [imitate in one axis the movement of tank threads while being a little stiffer in the other](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2942351)
There is spun PLA cloth...
--------------------------
[PLA can be spun into yarn](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13312/8884) in a similar process to the making of other polymer-based yarns. The resulting thread is 0.01 mm and thinner and then can be weaved using traditional methods. In this thickness, it behaves exactly like cloth, but that is an order of magnitude thinner than the thinnest nozzle available on the commercial market (0.1 mm) and unprintable.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/06 | 414 | 1,555 | <issue_start>username_0: Specifically using stainless steel nozzles, but I guess it's worth knowing about brass too. Is there any reason to be concerned about dimensional accuracy of the nozzle or anything like that as a result of repeated heating with a butane torch?<issue_comment>username_1: If you carbonize the filament or other particles that are clogging the nozzle, then you will never get them clean. In my experience, it's not worth cleaning the nozzle with anything other than cleaning filament. If that doesn't work then change the nozzle. Heating the metal nozzle with a torch will change the temper of the material. I used to try cleaning with a soldering iron; which was to no avail.
Purchase a dozen brass nozzles and save your self the headache. Either that or a good quality set of stainless steel ones. They are easier to clean with the cleaning filament and aren't ablated by the filament as quickly, allowing for better dimensional accuracy over multiple prints.
[https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you can get the torch hot enough and you carbonise/burn the filament properly, it may work. You still need to do a cold pull to remove as many residues as you can, but if you heated it enough, the residuals maybe won't stick too much to the nozzle.
You already have the butane, try and tell us.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/10 | 585 | 2,098 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm having some issues with my Prusa i3 prints. I'm trying to print the default beer opener print that came with the Prusa's memory card but the infill will break causing clogging and now allowing the print to finish. I've attached a picture of one of the failed prints.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNPn4.jpg)
I've checked Prusa's website and tried tightening the extruder gears and made sure the gears are clean. I'm using the PLA sent with the printer (1.75 mm) and with a default G-code file so I'm fairly sure it is a hardware issue, but I'm not sure what the issue could be.
[Here is the link](https://blog.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints/) that I've used to help me troubleshoot.<issue_comment>username_1: If you carbonize the filament or other particles that are clogging the nozzle, then you will never get them clean. In my experience, it's not worth cleaning the nozzle with anything other than cleaning filament. If that doesn't work then change the nozzle. Heating the metal nozzle with a torch will change the temper of the material. I used to try cleaning with a soldering iron; which was to no avail.
Purchase a dozen brass nozzles and save your self the headache. Either that or a good quality set of stainless steel ones. They are easier to clean with the cleaning filament and aren't ablated by the filament as quickly, allowing for better dimensional accuracy over multiple prints.
[https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-CLEANING-Filament-Printers-Cleaning/dp/B00MVIYNFW/](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OhXB.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you can get the torch hot enough and you carbonise/burn the filament properly, it may work. You still need to do a cold pull to remove as many residues as you can, but if you heated it enough, the residuals maybe won't stick too much to the nozzle.
You already have the butane, try and tell us.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/10 | 327 | 1,256 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking to print this item:
>
> <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4274950>
>
>
>
I want to lay it flat on the bed, 90° to how it's shown on Thingiverse. The problem is there's the one little corner on the end of the piece. When placed flat, this corner makes one side of arch. During the print, this section will build up to have much more material up in the air over a relatively small contact point, until the archway is connected.
I'm worried the section will shake loose from the bed. Is it possible to tell Cura to put a brim around just this section, and not the whole piece?
If I have to, I can edit the model the include 0.13 mm thick section there as part of the file. But I'd prefer to slice for this.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know a way to do that with Cura without breaking it up into multiple parts with different settings for each, but what about just enabling supports? You'd only get a very small amount of support material and it would act similarly to a brim to keep the small part from detaching.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I would enable supports using "Touching Build Plate", and then place a support blocker over the portion that you don't want supports added to.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/10 | 2,905 | 11,217 | <issue_start>username_0: I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.
So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA filament to a new roll; I thought it might have been the roll faulty so I've tried a spool that had been working fine until 2 hours before it all started. Nope, skipping with that one as well.
Here's what I've tried doing so far:
* Replaced the stock PTFE tubing with Capricorn tubing.
* Checked that the tubing is tight and does not have play.
* Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system.
* Performed various cold pulls.
* Replaced the nozzle.
* Upped the extruding temperature from 195 °C to 205 °C.
* Checked that there's the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.
* Yelled at the printer.
* Asked for advice to my cats.
None of the above worked, and my cats looked funny at me. Print settings as below:
* Filament diameter in the slicer 1.75mm (yes I've checked).
* Temperature: 195 °C, upped to 205 °C.
* Print speed: from 20 mm/s for the first layers to 50 mm/s for the infill.
I've also reverted back to the old PTFE tubing as I noticed that the Capricorn was giving too much resistance to the filament. Nope, still skipping.
I've noticed that the extruder gear grips quite firmly onto the filament, so much so that when it starts slipping it actually eats away the filament until it breaks. It's almost like there's a clog somewhere but the tubing is clear, the hot end is clear (I've cleared it and checked multiple times), and the nozzle is brand new.
What else can I try? Have I missed something? Apart from the changes listed above (carried out after the extruder started skipping), the printer is absolutely stock, firmware and everything.
**UPDATE:** I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all.
The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.
**UPDATE 2:** I've modifed the following parameters on the EEPROM to limit the filament flow:
```
M203 Z5.00 E25.00
M201 E1000
```
I've also crancked the temperature up to 220°C but it made no difference whatsoever. What I've noticed is that, after cleaning hot end and tubing, it starts skipping after 1 hour of printing, every single time without fail.
**UPDATE 3:** I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.
**UPDATE 4:** The extruder idler pulley has a compression washer to hold it in place without impeding idle spinning; it is usually mounted in the order idler pulley, compression washer and bolt. I've noticed that the pulley wasn't spinning freely this way, so I inverted the order to compression washer, idler pulley and bolt. The bolt head is small enough not to stop the pulley from spinning.
I've also increased the pressure the spring arm excise on the idler pulley, so that the toothed pulley grips more firmly on the filament.
This way I've managed to improve things although not solve them. It's been printing for the last 3 and a half hour without skipping but it's not a solution, as the toothed gear is chewing too aggressively on the filament. In just one hour a good deposit of PLA shavings has formed on the extruder, and I had to blow it away, and this never happened before this all started.<issue_comment>username_1: Since you've said you can feel a problem at the nozzle pushing it through manually, and since you say it goes away for a while after cleaning, you probably have somewhere that molten filament is getting into that it's not supposed to, then solidifying and jamming. Check that the cooling fan for the heatsink on the coldend is working, and that the PTFE tube is properly installed all the way through the heat break and butted up against the nozzle with no gaps or irregularities, and that the pressure fitting is holding it firmly and not allowing it to back out. If you can't find anything wrong, it's possible that something is just defective/damaged inside the hotend assembly.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: So, after some day of yelling and disassembling, I figured out what was the issue. As many were suggesting, I indeed had an issue with the tubing lifting from the nozzle. it was lifting, so PLA was slowly infiltrating where it wasn't supposed to be to the point it created a blockage, resulting in skipping.
However, no amount of cleaning and reseating the tubing got rid of it. i've also changed, again, nozzle, tubing and pneumatic fittings to higher quality ones to no avail.
I got absolutely fed up and bought a direct drive conversion kit. One of the cheap ones, reusing most of the stock hardware, including stock extruder and gears. The idea, for me, behind it was that the mass of the extruder, and the much shorter length of tubing, meant that the tubing had no space to move around and let the PLA out.
It looks like it's working so far, I'm 6 hours in on a 10 hours print with no skipping at all. I also managed to ease the pressure that the extruder arm excise on the filament, so it's not being chewed anymore and I'm not seeing any PLA shavings so far.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I my case helps reducing printing speed, from 100% to 80%.
Looks like the filament is cooling noozle to fast.
In some large prints at the begining (on first layers) I'm reducing speed to 60%.
This looks like the background temperature is not the same in the center and at the borders.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Lot's of factors can cause this behaviour. Firstly check there are no knots in the reel - that can lead to the reel locking up. Second check the PLA temperature and if dual wall (a lot of material being put out) check that the print head is not knocking (running over the top of) excess material due to oozing. I found that after swapping out the print head HE and extruder for new, that the root cause was that I had oozing and was not using the nozzle fan. This led to the head bumping over lumps in longitudinal runs (you could hear a thud), which led to the head getting gradually backed up and the reservoir in the head back-filling with hot PLA. This then created back-pressure into the Bowden tube and then up to the extruder, which is trying to push material into an already full reservoir (head + Bowden). And.. that leads to the cog wheel in the extruder fighting against the pent up flow in the HE. The solution was to put the fan on and that stopped the ooze blobs. Because I had elected to print a fairly heavy object, the wall count was causing an excess build up and my extra-prime setting, although good for thin wall printing, together with the 6mm retract, wasn't right for thick-wall printing. So I could have turned down the extra-prime a bit, but the nozzle fan was the best and easiest option. You have to think about the whole material flow process and how the system is wired: flow-wise. It's a fancy glue gun when you think about it. So you have to be mindful of all of the parameters that can affect material flow.
Having replaced the HE was actually a good idea, as I can now easily prime the head just by pushing material through by hand and feeling the flow. If you are having to push really hard, that means there is a blockage: either the head, or in the tubing or reservoir. Every two months you should maintain the printer and make sure that the head is running clear. The Bowden can also start to restrict in the head where the cleat locks onto the tubing. Heat, plus continual flexing leads to the tube starting to kink. If you are getting flakes at the extruder gear mechanism, then you have a Bowden tube or HE issue. Pushing the PLA by hand will tell you that. After a new HE is put in, you can feel the difference. A Creality 3D Pro head assembly is a few quid. I would suggest keeping a spare set of parts for maintenance work on-hand.
Flakes at the extruder could also be a sure sign of water ingress in the PLA. Look for small warts or bubbles in the print. If so, put the reel in an oven at at 60 °C for about 10-15 minutes. Then let cool off. Ideally you need a dry room to store reels, or a proper bucket with a drying agent inside. In the summer as heat and humidity rises, you'll notice that there's more absorption of water. If your printer is in the same room as a washing machine/dryer, you're asking for trouble. Ideally you need a dry cool space. Or just print a huge batch off and get through the reel quickly...
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: i've expirenced this a few times and just using my expirence from machining i narrowed it down to a few factors that changing fixed. #1 hot end temp, #2 axis speed, #3 filament feed rate. by playing with these settings i tend to find a happy medium with what im printing. it takes running a few set up pieces but with trial and error you can find a working point for your machine vs recommended settings. no two printers are ever the same just like no two CNC centers are ever the same. the jamming of the extruder usually is feeding too much material into the unit for its temp or it gettinng clogged at points by a bad bed level. If prints still come out ok, its pushing too much in IMO.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away.
The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure develops at the feeder and it skips. This worked for me, everything is stock and no changes to the feeder settings or anything else.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: In case anyone else also runs into this problem and has tried everything above, here is how you fix it for good.
While the direct drive extruder might work, it may seem odd to some that the system that previously worked fine now doesn't and needs a complete rebuild.
The problem is caused by a faulty cooling fan for the heat sink. Replace the AXIAL fan on the hotend. That is not the radial fan that is used to cool the print.
The devious thing about this problem is that the symptoms occur seemingly randomly which is caused by the rather slow heat transfer in the heat sink. At some point during the print a critical temperature is reached which deforms/lengthens the heat sink and opens up gaps in the path of the filament. Those gaps cause the filament to get stuck.
The other devious thing is that the cooling fan appears to be working alright but is not. I assume the rotational speed is lower than would be necessary but that can not be verified with the means currently at my disposal.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/11 | 2,457 | 9,304 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm printing stacked Prusa COVID-19 face shields on a modded Ender 3. It works fairly well until the second layer of masks, where we get this weird effect that's kind of like stringing. It looks like the curve is becoming "low poly." I'm sorry that I can't be more specific, but I really don't know how to describe it more than this. Please look at the pictures to get more info.
One of the strangest things is that it worked earlier with the same slicer and the same profile. I am using PrusaSlicer, but I tried it with Cura and it still didn't work. There are a few more problems with the prints: some under-extrusion on the supports, and some spots had little gaps between the layers.
Does anyone have any fixes for any of these problems? I would mainly like to know about the strange kind of stringing because that actually prevents me from stacking prints.
I am printing Overture PETG at 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed. This is at a speed of 50 mm per second. I have the Basaraba Innovations direct drive mod, the Creality silent board with TH3D Unified Firmware based on Marlin 1.1.9, and the EZABL Pro.
Please look at the pictures to see what is happening.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBYu2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/koHSS.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TveJc.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/urpmX.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOLcQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T21Ng.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMDNI.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PnvN.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Since you've said you can feel a problem at the nozzle pushing it through manually, and since you say it goes away for a while after cleaning, you probably have somewhere that molten filament is getting into that it's not supposed to, then solidifying and jamming. Check that the cooling fan for the heatsink on the coldend is working, and that the PTFE tube is properly installed all the way through the heat break and butted up against the nozzle with no gaps or irregularities, and that the pressure fitting is holding it firmly and not allowing it to back out. If you can't find anything wrong, it's possible that something is just defective/damaged inside the hotend assembly.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: So, after some day of yelling and disassembling, I figured out what was the issue. As many were suggesting, I indeed had an issue with the tubing lifting from the nozzle. it was lifting, so PLA was slowly infiltrating where it wasn't supposed to be to the point it created a blockage, resulting in skipping.
However, no amount of cleaning and reseating the tubing got rid of it. i've also changed, again, nozzle, tubing and pneumatic fittings to higher quality ones to no avail.
I got absolutely fed up and bought a direct drive conversion kit. One of the cheap ones, reusing most of the stock hardware, including stock extruder and gears. The idea, for me, behind it was that the mass of the extruder, and the much shorter length of tubing, meant that the tubing had no space to move around and let the PLA out.
It looks like it's working so far, I'm 6 hours in on a 10 hours print with no skipping at all. I also managed to ease the pressure that the extruder arm excise on the filament, so it's not being chewed anymore and I'm not seeing any PLA shavings so far.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I my case helps reducing printing speed, from 100% to 80%.
Looks like the filament is cooling noozle to fast.
In some large prints at the begining (on first layers) I'm reducing speed to 60%.
This looks like the background temperature is not the same in the center and at the borders.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Lot's of factors can cause this behaviour. Firstly check there are no knots in the reel - that can lead to the reel locking up. Second check the PLA temperature and if dual wall (a lot of material being put out) check that the print head is not knocking (running over the top of) excess material due to oozing. I found that after swapping out the print head HE and extruder for new, that the root cause was that I had oozing and was not using the nozzle fan. This led to the head bumping over lumps in longitudinal runs (you could hear a thud), which led to the head getting gradually backed up and the reservoir in the head back-filling with hot PLA. This then created back-pressure into the Bowden tube and then up to the extruder, which is trying to push material into an already full reservoir (head + Bowden). And.. that leads to the cog wheel in the extruder fighting against the pent up flow in the HE. The solution was to put the fan on and that stopped the ooze blobs. Because I had elected to print a fairly heavy object, the wall count was causing an excess build up and my extra-prime setting, although good for thin wall printing, together with the 6mm retract, wasn't right for thick-wall printing. So I could have turned down the extra-prime a bit, but the nozzle fan was the best and easiest option. You have to think about the whole material flow process and how the system is wired: flow-wise. It's a fancy glue gun when you think about it. So you have to be mindful of all of the parameters that can affect material flow.
Having replaced the HE was actually a good idea, as I can now easily prime the head just by pushing material through by hand and feeling the flow. If you are having to push really hard, that means there is a blockage: either the head, or in the tubing or reservoir. Every two months you should maintain the printer and make sure that the head is running clear. The Bowden can also start to restrict in the head where the cleat locks onto the tubing. Heat, plus continual flexing leads to the tube starting to kink. If you are getting flakes at the extruder gear mechanism, then you have a Bowden tube or HE issue. Pushing the PLA by hand will tell you that. After a new HE is put in, you can feel the difference. A Creality 3D Pro head assembly is a few quid. I would suggest keeping a spare set of parts for maintenance work on-hand.
Flakes at the extruder could also be a sure sign of water ingress in the PLA. Look for small warts or bubbles in the print. If so, put the reel in an oven at at 60 °C for about 10-15 minutes. Then let cool off. Ideally you need a dry room to store reels, or a proper bucket with a drying agent inside. In the summer as heat and humidity rises, you'll notice that there's more absorption of water. If your printer is in the same room as a washing machine/dryer, you're asking for trouble. Ideally you need a dry cool space. Or just print a huge batch off and get through the reel quickly...
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: i've expirenced this a few times and just using my expirence from machining i narrowed it down to a few factors that changing fixed. #1 hot end temp, #2 axis speed, #3 filament feed rate. by playing with these settings i tend to find a happy medium with what im printing. it takes running a few set up pieces but with trial and error you can find a working point for your machine vs recommended settings. no two printers are ever the same just like no two CNC centers are ever the same. the jamming of the extruder usually is feeding too much material into the unit for its temp or it gettinng clogged at points by a bad bed level. If prints still come out ok, its pushing too much in IMO.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I had the exact same issue and then suddenly it went away.
The only thing I had changed was my Z-offset. I moved it away from the plate by roughly 0.1 mm. To confirm it was the reason I set it back closer to the plate and the problem came back. I think When the nozzle is too close to the plate the plastic cannot freely flow out and hence the pressure develops at the feeder and it skips. This worked for me, everything is stock and no changes to the feeder settings or anything else.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: In case anyone else also runs into this problem and has tried everything above, here is how you fix it for good.
While the direct drive extruder might work, it may seem odd to some that the system that previously worked fine now doesn't and needs a complete rebuild.
The problem is caused by a faulty cooling fan for the heat sink. Replace the AXIAL fan on the hotend. That is not the radial fan that is used to cool the print.
The devious thing about this problem is that the symptoms occur seemingly randomly which is caused by the rather slow heat transfer in the heat sink. At some point during the print a critical temperature is reached which deforms/lengthens the heat sink and opens up gaps in the path of the filament. Those gaps cause the filament to get stuck.
The other devious thing is that the cooling fan appears to be working alright but is not. I assume the rotational speed is lower than would be necessary but that can not be verified with the means currently at my disposal.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/14 | 1,092 | 3,787 | <issue_start>username_0: PLA has a heat capacity of [1.8-2.1 J/g-K](https://www.sd3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MaterialTDS-PLA_01.pdf), while [PETG 1.1-1.3 J/g-K](http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=4de1c85bb946406a86c52b688e3810d0). This means that each gram of PLA needs more energy to heat up. I assume no "melting latent energy", since we talk about plastics.
The density is about the same.
Still, printing speed for PETG is said to be kept at max at 60 mm/s, while PLA can easily go up to 100 mm/s.
Why is PETG supposed to be printed slower than PLA?
Edit: a link to a more recent question may be of interest: [Power consumption of filament extrusion](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10173/power-consumption-of-filament-extrusion/10175?noredirect=1#comment30444_10175)<issue_comment>username_1: The density of PLA is around 1.25 g/cm³ and the density of PETG is around 1.38 g/cm³. When you're talking about the amount of energy needed to melt a particular *volume* (which is what your extrusion units are) rather than mass, you need to scale the heat capacities (with units of $\frac{\mathrm J}{\mathrm g\cdot \mathrm K}$) by the density to get $\frac{\mathrm J}{\mathrm{cm}^3\cdot \mathrm K}$. This brings their volumetric heat capacities somewhat closer: 2.25-2.63 vs 1.52-1.79 (about 47 % higher for PLA rather than your figure of about 62 %), but with PLA still higher.
You also have to account for heat loss to the environment. PLA is typically printed around 200 °C or 210 °C at most; PETG in my experience requires 250 °C to reach low enough viscosity to be printable at any speed. Assuming an ambient 20 °C, the rate of heat loss should be something like 25 % higher for PETG. So the hotend has that much additional energy needed to begin with.
Beside that, PLA is printed at temperatures where it's still extrudable and able to bond even if the temperature drops significantly below the nominal nozzle temperature (down to 180 °C, maybe even slightly lower), whereas PETG has trouble with increased viscosity and poor bonding right away if temperature drops.
Going broader still, PETG seems to need to keep its heat longer after being extruded in order for layers to bond well. (As evidenced by the need to lower fan or turn it off completely.) A slow-moving nozzle both provides heat (from the proximity of the nozzle itself) to slow the cooling, and reduces air flow across the part (by not causing as much air flow itself just by moving).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_1: I'm adding this answer to somewhat challenge the findings of my original answer, and the premise of the question: PETG does not need lower print speeds, and can even be printed at higher speeds than PLA under some conditions due to reduced need for cooling. You can see this from some of the "#speedboatrace" entries printed with PETG. So what was really going on with the original claim and my agreement with it?
I think my original answer is still somewhat true: it's likely that it takes more hotend power to melt PETG at a rate that can be successfully extruded *and bonded* than to do the same for PLA. But there are other factors at play in the perception that "PETG has to be printed slow".
FarO did not specify details of the printer(s) in question, but I found the big limiting factor for my Ender 3 printing PETG was the stock extruder, which presumably was skipping bad to begin with, and even worse with Linear Advance, trying to keep the filament under high pressure to compensate for its compressibility. Since replacing the extruder with a direct drive one, I've had no problem printing PETG at the same speed as PLA, and both can print much faster than I ever could with the stock bowden extruder.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/04/15 | 317 | 1,206 | <issue_start>username_0: On my Monoprice Mini Select v2 there is poor adhesion when the print head goes to put down a new layer on the bed as seen in the photo. Does anyone have a fix for this?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVbXE.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You could try a higher bed temp, but also check to make sure bed is levelled all round as this can sometimes cause this to happen
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Things you need to check or do:
1. Use adhesion layers
2. Set lower speeds at first layer.
3. Increase bed temperature (try 5 degrees steps)
4. Clean the bed
5. Check if the bed is completely leveled up.
6. Increase the thickness of the first layer.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you have already used alcohol to eliminate grease and fingerprints, sometimes scrubbing the print surface with a regular green scotchbrite pad can restore adhesion. It micro-scratches the surface and seriously increases the surface area of contact.
This all assumes you have properly calibrated the bed, reduced first layer print speed by at least 50%, increased first layer print thickness By >= 50%...
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/04/16 | 537 | 2,021 | <issue_start>username_0: I have two options - to buy either the Ender 3 or the Mega Zero. I'm heading towards Ender 3 because the Mega Zero doesn't have a heated bed.
My question is, how is a printer without a heated bed (the Mega Zero) a better option than one with a heated bed (the Ender 3)?
Why would I even consider buying a printer without a heated bed when the Ender 3 can do the same things **and** has a heated bed? I want be able to print not only PLA but other materials as well. Doesn't the Mega Zero limit you to using only PLA?<issue_comment>username_1: Lack of a heated bed does not necessarily limit you to using PLA. I would say (among those I've used) the material that's least sensitive to whether you have a heated bed is probably TPU. Depending on your model, it can even be hard to print PLA without a heated bed, unless perhaps you're willing to use a brim or raft. Printing ABS or ASA without a heated bed is almost certainly out of the question, and PETG *might* be possible, but I'd expect it to be difficult.
Mechanically, the Anycubic Mega Zero looks very similar to the Ender 3. The claimed bed size on the Mega Zero is slightly smaller (220 mm vs 235 mm) but they might just be counting the usable part.
The only possible objective advantage to the Mega Zero I could find is the double gear extruder, which may help with printing faster or flexible filaments.
Presumably you could add a heating element to the bed if you want.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I used to print PLA with my heated bed turned off, since it was deforming when heated.
It works perfectly fine, only detaching the print was terribly difficult.
I would not buy a printer without it, because even a weak bed reaching only 50°C gives you many more possibilities.
I mean, you could use it to keep your coffee warm while you work at the computer, or to warm up chemical solutions to make them react faster. You can also use the bed to shake the solution!
Go for a heated bed.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/17 | 543 | 1,872 | <issue_start>username_0: The heater cartridge on my CR10 V2 broke so I ordered a new one(12V). After replacing it the new one heats of very quickly past the target temperature and the slowly decreases to the target. Once it hits the target temp it goes up and down by 10 °C or so during prints. During the prints there is under extrusion. I read that if the filament gets hot too high up the hotted it could cause clogs. I replaced the nozzle as well and cleaned out everything.
Some things that I think may have an effect:
1. Could the new heater cartridge not be compatible?
2. does a poor solder job with heater cartridge wires have an effect
3. It's possible I messed up the thermistor when replacing heater cartridge, could that explain whats happening?
4. Is there anything else in the hot end assembly such as fans that would cause this?<issue_comment>username_1: This sounds as if you have bought an incorrect heater element, e.g. one for 12 V instead of 24 V. The CR-10 uses 24 V. The 12 V cartridge has a lower resistance, so when powered by 24 V, the current is much higher and therefore also the heating power ($ {(\frac{24}{12})}^2 = 4 $ times higher). For details on the calculation, the [this answer](/a/13313) on question: ["PID autotune fails 'Temp too high' with 12 V heater cartridge but works with 24 V?"](/q/13310). This makes the hotend heat up very fast resulting in a large overshoot. You need to replace the cartridge for one for 24 V.
---
*Note that I recently experienced exactly the same problem by mixing up the cartridges see [this answer](/a/13314).*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: funny I have the opposite worry, I have a CR10s5 and relaxed the whole hot end with the CR10v2 one and now I get a thermal error at 170 degrees and it shuts off, should I just replace the cartridge, or do I need to replace the fans tooo
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/19 | 568 | 1,874 | <issue_start>username_0: I´ve tried tunning printer settings with different Nozzle(190-210 ºC)/ Bed(0-60 ºC) Temperatures, Fan Speeds (0-100 %), Cura and Slicer adjustemens but nothing worked. I still get the same bubbles in the first 3 mm of every print.
I also tried a glass bed and the magnetic bed that comes with Ender 3 pro and the result is still the same.
The last thing I tried was moving the 0 position of the Z axis 10 mm up, but it didn´work.
What else could I try? Any idea of which could be the issue. Thanks in advance.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpCwy.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q32Pv.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It seems like your bed might be too close to the nozzle, hence the large elephants foot (bulge on the first layer). You can try using babystep Z to increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed and see how that works out. I think you might need to reduce the flow multiplier (extrusion multiplier) a little too.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: [This answer](/a/13458) hints to the correct diagnosis but doesn't explain how to fix this in Cura or any other solution other than babysteps. You don't want to adjust babysteps at every print...
Basically, your nozzle is too close to the bed (from comment 0.1 mm to be exact). To increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed you can:
* level with a little thicker paper,
* move the bed down on all corners,
* move the Z endstop up,
* redefine the Z=0 in your start code,
`G1 Z0.1 ; Move to 0.1 mm height`
`G92 Z0 ; Redefine zero height`
* install Cura plugin "Z Offset Setting" from fieldOfView (through the Cura Marketplace) and define a `Z Offset` of 0.1 mm, and/or
* increase the first layer height a little.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/20 | 520 | 1,873 | <issue_start>username_0: Does a filament exist that can resist ozone (like certain silicone tubing's can). Most glass bottles come with tin or plastic screw hard tops and I would like to replace the screw caps with something that is more resistant to ozone.
The reason for this is I make my own homemade ozonated oil in glass bottles and I would like to print out different hard screw top caps for some of the bottles.<issue_comment>username_1: If making your own caps ends up being the best solution, TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is probably your best bet. I don't have specific information on printed TPU filament and ozone, but TPU is widely regarded as one of the most chemical-resistant materials you can easily print with, and [this page by Ozone Solutions](https://ozonesolutions.com/blog/ozone-compatible-materials/) rates polyurethane (no mention of specific types) A/Excellent described as:
>
> Ozone has **no effect** on these materials. They will last indefinitely.
>
>
>
Being at least slightly flexible, TPU will also yield a good seal without any additional gasket. You should probably choose an unpigmented "natural/clear" TPU filament in case the pigments do react.
It might (probably would) also work to coat an existing cap with polyurethane. I'm not sure how you'd best get it to adhere, but lightly sanding the plastic then using a spray in multiple coats is what I'd try first.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: According to <https://www.calpaclab.com/polyetherether-ketone-peek-chemical-compatibility-chart/> and <https://www.polyfluor.nl/en/chemical-resistance/peek/> PEEK is very resistant to ozone.
PEEK does cost about as much per gram as silver.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: This is highly relevant: PETG is very resistant to Ozone.
<https://www.plasticsintl.com/chemical-resistance-chart>
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/20 | 430 | 1,716 | <issue_start>username_0: I've found many Youtube videos of makers upgrading to BLTouch sensor.
I have a Creality CR-10S Pro, so far bed leveling hasn't been an issue (after some days of trial and error).
My question is what are the problems/issues users need to face in order to need (or justify) an upgrade?<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know your printer but I don't have BLtouch, and I have to set the height every time because the bed expands with heat.
If you print at variable bed temperature (PLA, ABS, PETg, nylon require different values) then that sensor helps a lot.
BL touch can also speed up bed calibration: you scan the bed, see the values to be corrected, adjust the bed without having to guess (given the thread pitch and required correction).
Also, if you print only in the center it's easy but if you print fully using the size of the bed, I doubt you can get very flat bed. The BLtouch helps for that too.
Also, there are clones like 3D touch which were tested and work equally well. Depending on your budget, they may be an interesting alternative.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: A touch or an inductive/capacitive sensor is useful when you cannot get prints to stick to the build surface because of a skew bed platform/heated plate or if the plate has a bend, large concave or convex area.
Even with such a sensor, you need to provide a bed that is as level (trammed) as you can get. Automatic Bed Levelling (ABL) is not magic, it is just a tool that can help out if you have a problematic bed surface. But, recent versions of Marlin have "manual bed levelling"; i.e. you can map the surface using your printer without a sensor and store that geometry in memory.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/20 | 824 | 3,104 | <issue_start>username_0: * I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?
* Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEr8Z.png)
Update, I received a hint that an existing question has the answer; that link was not really to my satisfaction -- but it did link to another one that did: [What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20/what-are-main-differences-between-rafts-skirts-and-brims)<issue_comment>username_1: My understand is that's is basically a purging extrusion, so that you get flow through the extruder before you start printing the object, as filament that's been inside the hotend during warm-up might have been "overcooked" by spending too much time in the hotend at temperature. It also helps stabilise the PID loop controlling the extruder temperature by allowing the PID loop to stabilise the temperature of the hotend as it's got filament flowing through it compared to it being idle.
It also shows the user where it intends to start printing, which is a useful check if something went wrong with Gcode generation.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?
>
>
>
The (equidistant) lines at distance from the print object is called the "skirt", the skirt is an option found under the "Build Plate Adhesion" options in your slicer. The primary function of the skirt is to get the flow going, but there are more benefits you can get from the skirt:
* You can find out whether the bed is correctly levelled, or if the bed has concave or convex areas (the skirt should be a line, I prefer at least 2 lines, of consistent thickness, if not, this may hint to incorrect levelling;
* You can find out if there is enough or a sufficient amount of adhesive (e.g. glue stick, hair spray, specific print adhesion sprays like 3DLAC or DimaFix, etc), if not the bed might be greasy or lacking the adhesion product;
* You can configure the skirt height to use the skirt as a shield for draft or ooze and distance to product);
>
> Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?
>
>
>
Do note that a skirt limits the useable build area by the distance and width of the skirt.
---
*Basically this has been answered (see [this answer](/a/11303) and [this answer](/a/11304)) in a different question (["Random lines are being printed?"](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11300/random-lines-are-being-printed)), but it might be beneficial to answer this question rather than closing this for a dupe. This question is focussed on the skirt, the equidistant lines around the print object, while the other question focuses on the priming line.*
---
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer] |
2020/04/20 | 1,256 | 4,928 | <issue_start>username_0: Are there any defacto standards for interfacing between common 3D printers and custom extruders or other tooling? I was thinking how it would be good to have switchable nozzle widths mounted on the same heat block and switched between using a solenoid so you could have say a 0.25 mm for surface layer and details, then swap to 0.6 mm for the infill.
What would be the path of least resistance so it could be accessed in generic firmware?
The design I was thinking would be similar to a generic aluminium heat block with two nozzles screwed in side by side with there inputs meeting in an inverted Y junction with its center drilled out and replaced by a rod with appropriate channeling to divert the already molten plastic between nozzles. Turning the rod would be done from a solenoid mounted somewhere behind the heat-break.with a clamping mechanism.<issue_comment>username_1: Generally: nozzles are not changed, the whole tool head is
----------------------------------------------------------
While "tool change" is easy to implement in a G-code and could be easily adapted in the firmware, there are several practical issues to hot-swapping nozzles without swapping the whole hotend assembly:
* The hotend is a fluid-dynamic system that needs to be sealed to operate under pressure and temperature.
* The seal of the nozzle-heatbreak system is in most systems a metal-on-metal pressure seal
* Rubber seals are not an option in a system that runs over 180°C
* Moving metal seals are very hard to make and run smoothly.
Your idea: especially **No**
============================
There is literally no way to design a turning Y-switch that fits the following bills:
* sealed
* filament path ~2 mm
* screw-in diameter for heatbreak and nozzles M6
* creates enough free space between the lower outlets to mount 2 M6 nozzles with enough space to hold a wrench (=15mm diameter of centers)
* fit into the form factor of a conventional heater block
Your idea would need to be considerably larger, need a stronger heater element and creates an impossibly to clean area around the turning junction peg. Atop that, you would trade 1 area of possible leak (between heatbreak and nozzle) for 3 areas of possible leaks (nozzle-block and heatbreak block) and one area of guaranteed leak (the turning peg).
How is it done then?!
---------------------
Currently, there are the following ways to swap between different of nozzles mid-print that have been proven to work somewhat reliably:
1. fixed independent print heads with independent carriages.
2. fixed independent nozzles and heaters on one carriage.
3. swapping print heads on one carriage.
The first design is used for example in the Leapfrog Bolt, combined heads are for example the [e3D Chimera, Cyclops and Kraken](https://e3d-online.com/hotends/multi-extrusion). e3D also designed on a reliable printhead - or rather tool - swapping system starting about 2018 and did release it to the public in [late 2019](https://e3d-online.com/blog/2019/04/18/toolchanger-the-update-youve-all-been-waiting-for/).
Type 1 needs you to level the printheads well and to the same height in the easy case, but with the right setup of firmware, a Z-offset of the two tools can be included and compensated for - possibly even automatically. Type 3 does usually demands you to include very accurate offsets of the used tools or includes a way to measure the offset during operation, though I lack insight into how e3D solves it. Both setups can mitigate oozing of the unused nozzles out of the printing volume.
Type 2 not only demands hyper exact leveling, but it *also* is very prone to create some sort of oozing of the unused nozzle.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Tool change is M06 (then some value specifying what change to occur). You will need to implement the necessary changes in the firmware to support whatever electronics is required to perform the tool change (eg stepper driver | hobby servo, mosfets to run the solenoid).
Once done, your slicer now has to do the work of knowing that there is a different nozzle size for different parts of the model. I know of no, slicer that can do that for different sizes on the same layer.
As for your idea: manual "tool changes" might be a better way to go, otherwise you would have to put the entire hot end on a carousel.
[Proposed hot end ejection mechanism](https://www.polync.com/2019/08/hotend-ejection-mechanism/)
The link (authored by me) describes a fast removal system for manually changing the hot end nozzles before prints. The electronics would need to be connected via pogo pins so that the installer doesn't need to connect any wires.
Further in this video ([Printhead swapping](https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=11&v=RMoyh84kEiw&feature=emb_logo)), the author shows a magnetically attached and registered quick swap hot end, which can even swap the extruder.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/04/22 | 278 | 1,044 | <issue_start>username_0: Before it stopped working, the stepper motor worked very well and didn't show any problem. I experienced this after I fixed a filament problem. The filament got stuck soI retracted to pull the filament out of the heat nozzle. But when I finished this, the extruder didn't work anymore...
I restarted the system but it didn't work. All the motors work fine, even the extruder motor. The A4988 driver has the right voltage at 1.0 - 1.2 V. I have already replaced my RAMPS shield and AtMega board, but it still does not work! I changed the extruder motor to another axis port and it worked good. The voltage input is stable at 11.2 V
I can't figure out why the extruder motor is not working for the extruder port?<issue_comment>username_1: When you pulled the filament out of the extruder you most likely induced a voltage back into the stepper driver which fried it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have found an answer. So dumb♂️♂️. It need to heat up nozzle before use extrude or retract command
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/04/23 | 1,052 | 3,274 | <issue_start>username_0: I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.
Designed in Tinkercad ([link to my (updated) design](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1JZRKfOQHxr)), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.
The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.
So I got this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z76pt.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oAAI.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjdhi.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY4Li.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lLI8.jpg)
The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.
1. Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?
~~2) I have a handheld "3D print pen". If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to "hug" the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.~~ nvm that
---
Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/518RF.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3BDb.jpg)
---
I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t2Zb.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: The reason for this sort of error might be either
1) a clogged nozzel, [try doing this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg4sOaSvimY)
2) disturbed bed level,[resolve this issue](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL3Gmy4hh3Y)
3) poor filament quality,
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.
Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/04/23 | 1,313 | 4,486 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got a Renkforce RF1000 which should be a good 3D printer. I got it second-hand for my birthday one year ago. I've got no way of contacting the old owner.
I spend a good amount of hours fine-tuning the slicer settings last year but at best got mediocre prints. Between September and a week ago I lived somewhere else and didn't touch my printer.
Now here's what I don't know:
* I don't know what parts are replaced
* I don't know what my nozzle size is
* I don't know if the limit switches are calibrated correctly
+ Though I think they are. This doesn't seem to be a problem. I did re-calibrate the Z-axis
Here are some important details:
* I use 3 mm Renkforce PLA filament which I print at 190 °C on a bed heated at 60 °C. The PLA is over one year old now.
* There's a fan on the motor on top that isn't connected to anything.
Here are some of the problems I've got:
* I've had multiple prints failing due to the extruder not working properly. The motor keeps on spinning but the "feed knurl" remains stationary
* I can't seem to get the right extraction settings
* I can't seem to get my prints to consistently stick. It tends to work when I heat the bed to 60 °C and use glue and get lucky.
Feel free to give any thoughts you've got. These are the most important questions I've got:
1. Should I replace the nozzle with [this one](https://www.conrad.com/p/renkforce-nozzle-v2-03-mm-suitable-for-3d-printer-renkforce-rf1000-renkforce-rf2000-1296238?searchTerm=renkforce%20nozzle&searchType=suggest&searchSuggest=product) so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?
2. Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?
3. How do I fix the extruder?
* I tried getting the "feed knurl" off but can't seem to do this easily. I've got some super glue I could try to put in there but something's telling me this might be a very bad idea...
4. Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.
5. How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?
For now, these are all hardware problems. I can post my Slic3r settings too but I believe the hardware should be fixed before going into slicer settings.
Here are some pictures showing the problems:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg)
This is the extruder. The feeding mechanism can be seen in front. It shows the "feed knurl" of which the inside spins while the outside remains stationary (question 3). Next to it are 4 screws which determine how tight the filament is held against the extruder (question 5). On the back it shows a black fan, this got placed by the previous owner but isn't connected (question 4).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cu0UM.jpg)
This image shows the unconnected fan (question 4) to the right. Behind it is the motor that's connected to the extruder. The motor works but the extruder doesn't spin with it. The extruder has a little black hole on top.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyWj2.jpg)
This shows the extruder from the front. The inner layer spins, the outer layer doesn't (question 3)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZd1o.jpg)
These are some of the prints when the extruder was still working.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdToY.jpg)
Nozzle and print bed (question 1)<issue_comment>username_1: The reason for this sort of error might be either
1) a clogged nozzel, [try doing this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bg4sOaSvimY)
2) disturbed bed level,[resolve this issue](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lL3Gmy4hh3Y)
3) poor filament quality,
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: One hundred percent infill is not necessarily stronger than lower values. By having such a high infill figure, the forces on the model as it cools are magnified and not in a particularly good manner.
Consider that you could use twenty to thirty percent infill to get the strength you require for this application, saving filament and time for the print. You've not noted how many wall layers used, but for increased strength, four to five would make for a very strong model.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/04/25 | 757 | 2,777 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently purchased a BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 and need to adjust some of the settings in configuration h to accommodate for my custom built 3d printer. In the past I've used the RAMPS 1.4 board and adjusted the firmware in the arduino IDE. What is the best way/recommended way to do this for the mini E3 V1.2.
Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: Basics
======
Firmware can be distributed in 2 ways:
* As a compiled file (for example as .hex).
* As an uncompiled repository (as in a preconfigured marlin distribution) that needs to be compiled at the users' side.
compiled file
=============
Compiled files **can't** be altered easily. The only way to change settings after installation is to send the correct commands via a [console](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10573/what-is-a-printer-console-terminal) to alter the settings in the SRAM then save the new settings into the EEPROM via [`M500`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html) from the [M50X family of commands](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11438/m502-will-reset-all-configurable-settings-to-their-factory-defaults-which-set/11440#11440) - and hoping that EEPROM was activated in the firmware to begin with.
uncompiled distribution
=======================
To alter an uncompiled Repository, you can follow the basic path in [Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12153/updating-marlin-firmware-step-by-step-guide)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The previous answer is good, but here's one specific for Bigtreetech.
1. Install platform.io. I use the command-line interface (CLI)
2. Modify your marlin files. You can clone existiing firmware for your board from the BigtreeTech Github for your board.
3. Remove microUSB card from your Bigtree tech board
4. Plug microUSB card into microUSB reader, and the microusb reader into the computer. You should be able to read your microUSB card
5. Enter the command in the root directory of your Marlin files: `platformio run -e STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB`. At least, this is the one for my board. You should have to run this in one folder before the `Marlin` folder.
6. It creates a file called `firmware.bin` in the directory `.pio/build/STM32F103RC_bigtree_USB/firmware.bin`. Copy it to your microUSB card, replacing and deleting any existing `.bin`. You can use the name `firmware.bin`.
7. Remove microSD card from computer and plug into board.
In your Marlin `Configuration.h` file, there should be a variable called something like `MACHINE_NAME`. If you make that name custom, then it will appear in the Octoprint terminal when connecting to your board, letting you know that you have updated the firmware.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/25 | 976 | 3,823 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm new to printing resin miniatures for Dungeons & Dragons and most of my prints are successful, i.e. one or more miniatures print as expected.
However when I have multiple minis on the build plate the one in the middle works okay but the ones on the edges don't adhere to the build plate.
Should I limit myself to one or two minis in the center of the build plate? Or should it work and I just need to get my settings correct?
Note I'm using a Beam 3D Prism printer.<issue_comment>username_1: You can definitely print full build plates of minis. You just need to find correct settings. If nothing sticks to the build plate - then you should increase bottom exposure time. Also check if the build plate is even. You can also sand your build plate a little bit to make adhesion better. Additionally, print with lower print speeds to increase success.
Finally, if your FEP is worn out and scratched or hazy, you should replace it.
I own a company producing 3D printing resins. We also write extensive printing guides from time to time. You can read more on finding correct settings in this [article](https://ameralabs.com/blog/the-complete-resin-3d-printing-settings-guide-for-beginners/) of mine.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can fill the plate as much as you want, as long as the playing figure is not at the edge of the plate (can create problems).
The problem could be that the plate is too smooth or that it is not perfectly level.
If the plate is too smooth you could use some sandpaper to make it rough.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I regularly print multiple models on the build plate of an Elegoo Saturn. If your built plate is level and your tank is firmly fastened down you should have no problems.
What I have found is the my slicer (Chitubox) will sometimes corrupt the base layer if I print multiple models. With me this usually causes the bottom layer to be deformed, and to have jutting protrusions that were not on the original layer, or for the slicer not to recognize the base layer as being flat.
The second picture shows an example of how the skate or one model was deformed. The small pieces of cured resin are corrupted data and aren't part of any model or support structure. They were not visible in Chitubox unless I manually rotated the object view and saw little visual glitches.
I would advice that you check your sliced files.
See the example image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dnTJC.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gQzHT.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Open your file in your slicer, and set it to only view the bottom few layers. Spin the view around several times and view it from different angles. Look for odd shadows or lines.
If it looks anything like the below image then the problem isn't with your printer, it's with the file that you've just sliced.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AaOM6.png)
For some reason the slicer no longer sees its own raft as being flat, and it is creating floating geometry that sometimes breaks loose.
I've found that I can sometimes resolve this problem by reducing the size of the raft. About 105% usually does it for me. Otherwise the problem might be the geometry of the models that you're printing. I tend to print off models that I've made myself, so it's quite possible that it's something that I've done, or the way that I've exported the STL files.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Check the plate and be sure that it is level. Also, you need to check that your model is level.
The problem will be in the settings if everything is level.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/04/26 | 537 | 1,871 | <issue_start>username_0: I was just about to start using my 3D printers heated bed to warm a chemical reaction in a container and was thinking it would be great to be able to get the bed stepping back and forth to stir the pot.
Can anyone already up to speed in programming G-code walk me through a quick and dirty way to get the X-axis on my old Printrbot metal doing a couple of micro-steps either way in an endless loop? Or suggest some software out there that could achieve the same effect?<issue_comment>username_1: Never mind, figured the quickest dirtiest way myself - created a tall thin cylinder shape model in Blender and positioned it in Repetier so the printer head will be clear of the table as it moves. Then just broke off the filament that was currently in the printer so it will stop feeding once the current piece gets to the end of the feeder wheel. - not an endless loop but should give me a good 10 or 20 minutes of agitation before I need to restart the print if necessary.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Basically you need to write a G-code file yourself. This is a plain text file with a `.g` extension.
You need to home the printer with `G28`, then move the Y axis all the way forward (for a Prusa style printer) with `G1 F1500 Y{ymax}` (where `{ymax}` is the length of the bed). Now raise the head with a similar command `G1 F500 Z{zmax}` (where `{zmax}` is the height of the printer volume).
Heating the bed is done with [`M190 S60`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp) (set and wait to reach 60 °C).
You can now rock the Y axis by moving it fast, e.g. with `G1 F5000 Y{ymax-5}`, `G1 Y{ymax-1}`, `Y{ymax-5}`, `Y{ymax-1}`, etc.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Stefan from CNC kitchen already did it: <https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration>
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/04/30 | 900 | 3,220 | <issue_start>username_0: I have been working hard the last year on the model below. I am new to everything 3D that is modeling and especially 3D printing. I have however successfully concluded quite a good number of 3D prints which I created in blender with my Creality Ender 3 Pro so I have a bit of experience.
All this new experience for me started with the desire to do this project I have been working on for all this year. A complex 3D model of a knight's tomb which I would like to print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ5Lx.png)
As you can see Cura is clearly indicating that there is a need for supports in these red areas. The model will be printed in a 15 cm size. I have also managed to resize the model from a 22 million face mesh full of holes to a 900k manifold model.
However, when I slice it I get this.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5o8.jpg)
As you can see supports are only generated for the outer column part. None are generated for the arches which are totally absent when the model is sliced.
I have tried to alter the model's orientation but with no result. I will try to separate this mesh in parts but it would mean restarting all from scratch since I found no good software to slice it precisely.
I am quite sure that the main problem lies in the fact the Ender 3 pro is an FDM printer an that the vertical lines of the arches are too thin. Since I tried to upload my model on 3D printing services to see if it could be printed in other materials and could be printed in finely detailed resin.
I would like at least to know if I am right in my problem spotting or if there could be any solution to the present problem so that not to go wrong if I will redesign this part.<issue_comment>username_1: Never mind, figured the quickest dirtiest way myself - created a tall thin cylinder shape model in Blender and positioned it in Repetier so the printer head will be clear of the table as it moves. Then just broke off the filament that was currently in the printer so it will stop feeding once the current piece gets to the end of the feeder wheel. - not an endless loop but should give me a good 10 or 20 minutes of agitation before I need to restart the print if necessary.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Basically you need to write a G-code file yourself. This is a plain text file with a `.g` extension.
You need to home the printer with `G28`, then move the Y axis all the way forward (for a Prusa style printer) with `G1 F1500 Y{ymax}` (where `{ymax}` is the length of the bed). Now raise the head with a similar command `G1 F500 Z{zmax}` (where `{zmax}` is the height of the printer volume).
Heating the bed is done with [`M190 S60`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp) (set and wait to reach 60 °C).
You can now rock the Y axis by moving it fast, e.g. with `G1 F5000 Y{ymax-5}`, `G1 Y{ymax-1}`, `Y{ymax-5}`, `Y{ymax-1}`, etc.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Stefan from CNC kitchen already did it: <https://github.com/CNCKitchen/3D-Printer-Vibration>
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/02 | 452 | 1,675 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm working on a project with will be buried in soil. It's an enclosure for a sensor that will be potted inside the 3D printed part. What filament will give me the longest life in soil?
ETA: burial will be permanent, and I'd like it to last at least five years.
ETA: The printed part will provide mechanical support for the sensor, so it needs to retain most of its mechanical properties.<issue_comment>username_1: If TPU ends up not being rigid enough for you:
I've had good enough luck with ABS coated in automotive RTV.
Thing with ABS though is that it's a special (not so)"solid" that gets softer as it gets hotter. My use had water in it when warm so wasn't too much of an issue, and it never experienced freezing temperatures.
Also it hasn't been 5 years yet. ~2 years and counting.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Instead of TPU or ABS, you might also want to try ASA. It has a better resistance against weather, so it might help you here.
Here is a little article about ASA filament: [Article](https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/testing-asa-3d-printing-filament-weather-resistant-alternative-abs-62785/)
And [this article](https://all3dp.com/2/asa-filament-explained-and-compared/) lists its pros as having a strong UV resistance, high wear and impact resistance, and high glass transition temperature.
Overall, you might want to give this a try. Hope it helps!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I would recommend PETG - only because it is structurally similar to the plastic used in the bottles that last forever, and most PETG is food grade - implying that its chemical stability should be reasonably good...
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/03 | 597 | 2,107 | <issue_start>username_0: I’m new to 3D printing and have the Creality Ender 3 Pro. I work a lot with clay for earrings and wanted to design my own cutters with a sharp edge to create clean shapes.
I use PLA and have been using the speed and nozzle (0.4 mm) that was already set when I bought it. It’s been creating fine edges but I’d like to make it a lot sharper. Using the instructions from videos I saw online, I created the following "U" shape (extrusion of .5 mm Is the “cutting edge”. I started getting some weird bubbles too and am not sure what has created that either (see pic).
I use Fusion 360 to make the cookie/clay cutter and then send it to Ultimaker Cura to slice.
Any help with how to make it sharper and more clean cuts would be great!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uMjD.jpg "Cookie/clay cutter form")<issue_comment>username_1: An extrusion width of 0.5 mm is too wide for making a sharp outline, I do use this sometimes for extrusion width for the infill.
Note that you can sand plastic (e.g. PLA or ABS) to sharpen the edge.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To build in username_1's answer, standard nozzle width is 0.4 mm, so using a width of 0.5 mm will likely make the slicer extrude the edge as *two extrusion lines*, either with one of them very thin (which is hard to print precisely), or overextruded so that the total width is closer to 0.8 mm. You should probably aim for exactly the nozzle/line width, or since that sometimes causes slicing problems due to numerical inaccuracy, something like 5% over, with the slicer's "minimum flow" set to 10% or more so that a second line does not get laid down at all. You could also try reducing the line width below the nozzle width. Down to about 75% of the nozzle width should work pretty reliably; below that it's likely to have problems.
Aside from that, your print seems to have a lot of blobs and extrusion errors on it. To make this work well, you should try to find the causes of those issues too and get them fixed.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/03 | 1,040 | 3,897 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking to increase the printing speed, through increasing the volumetric flow rate, which is currently at 5 mm³/s. Larger amounts cause the feeding mechanism to skip steps.
I'm running at 190 °C, which helps with easier bridging less stringing and personally see no reason to increase the temperature to the popular 205 °C.
So, my thought process is the following: since I run at lesser temperature, there is still potential for the heating block to provide more heat and I need a longer nozzle to accumulate more heat and provide more surface area for transfer to the fillament (PLA), to speed up the melting of the plastic inside the nozzle (*which seems to be the bottleneck*).
*That's similar to using larger tips for soldring iron, when faced with heating up large surfaces in order to desolder something large, since we need to stay at precise temperature, and need to increase the heat supply as well.*
The suggested solution is to switch to the E3D's Volcano "everything included" kit. Which is nice and cool, but I don't think it's that necessary.
* Is it possible to just switch to a volcano nozzle? (Manufacturer#: VOLCANO-NOZZLE-175-0400)
* Would it actually noticeably help to increase the extrusion speed?
*Current setup:*
* *Ender 3 Pro, no mods*
* *Classic 0.4 mm nozzle*<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, the Volcano or the Super Volcano allow for larger flow rate (typically when using larger nozzles), that is where they were designed for. Just the nozzle will not help you, you need this larger nozzle shaft to be inside a Volcano heater block, else you cannot transfer the heat.
According to measurements from Metaform, the volumetric flow of a Volcano hotend is larger than the regular E3D V6 hotend.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p6Le.png)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is opinion-based, but the volcano has drawbacks that affect print quality, mine is oozier and sloppier than a V6 with the shorter, more precise melt zone. It isn’t a slam dunk upgrade, more of a special applications part. I think there is no point to using a Volcano unless you’re running big nozzles fast, like .8 mm.
Your 5 mm3/s throughput is low, the V6 is generally known as a ~13 mm3/s volumetric throughput, vs the Volcano at 25 mm3/s. This is due to the low temperature you favor, possibly something not ideal with your extruder. I could see...
* just living with the slow speed. I realize I vastly prefer print quality over print speed because one takes no human interaction and the other does.
* do what everyone else does. go hotter, plastic viscosity goes way down even with a 5-10 degree increase
* increase extruder torque. If you can increase stepper current safely (know the limit for your driver and motor!) with a trim pot on the stepper driver, you may be able to get more torque before the motor skips steps. This can increase motor temperature. If you get more torque, at some point the filament will slip and get carved up by the extruder’s hobbed gear. Double geared extruder designs like Bondtech can grip the filament from both sides and get more traction on the filament if you want to get diabolical shoving the filament.
* use a larger nozzle for faster printing at your preferred temp. I’m loving the .6 mm nozzle for bigger prints. It has most of the detail of the .4 mm but double the plastic comes out. A larger nozzle hole means less pressure in the nozzle at a given temp and extruder feed rate
If you think the extruder might not be all it can be, try heating up the nozzle hotter than usual, and get the extruder going slow and steady, and pull a little on the filament by hand, see if it skips steps easily with a little resistance. It should pull pretty strong. I had a failing wire to my extruder that manifested in wimpy extrusion.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/04 | 807 | 2,951 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an Ender 3, I got a new glass bed, the bed comes with glue on the back.
Should I stick the glass bed to the aluminium base? or just use it with the clips?
I saw other people just use the clips, but my glass seems to have a sticky back...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iq7WD.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, the Volcano or the Super Volcano allow for larger flow rate (typically when using larger nozzles), that is where they were designed for. Just the nozzle will not help you, you need this larger nozzle shaft to be inside a Volcano heater block, else you cannot transfer the heat.
According to measurements from Metaform, the volumetric flow of a Volcano hotend is larger than the regular E3D V6 hotend.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p6Le.png)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is opinion-based, but the volcano has drawbacks that affect print quality, mine is oozier and sloppier than a V6 with the shorter, more precise melt zone. It isn’t a slam dunk upgrade, more of a special applications part. I think there is no point to using a Volcano unless you’re running big nozzles fast, like .8 mm.
Your 5 mm3/s throughput is low, the V6 is generally known as a ~13 mm3/s volumetric throughput, vs the Volcano at 25 mm3/s. This is due to the low temperature you favor, possibly something not ideal with your extruder. I could see...
* just living with the slow speed. I realize I vastly prefer print quality over print speed because one takes no human interaction and the other does.
* do what everyone else does. go hotter, plastic viscosity goes way down even with a 5-10 degree increase
* increase extruder torque. If you can increase stepper current safely (know the limit for your driver and motor!) with a trim pot on the stepper driver, you may be able to get more torque before the motor skips steps. This can increase motor temperature. If you get more torque, at some point the filament will slip and get carved up by the extruder’s hobbed gear. Double geared extruder designs like Bondtech can grip the filament from both sides and get more traction on the filament if you want to get diabolical shoving the filament.
* use a larger nozzle for faster printing at your preferred temp. I’m loving the .6 mm nozzle for bigger prints. It has most of the detail of the .4 mm but double the plastic comes out. A larger nozzle hole means less pressure in the nozzle at a given temp and extruder feed rate
If you think the extruder might not be all it can be, try heating up the nozzle hotter than usual, and get the extruder going slow and steady, and pull a little on the filament by hand, see if it skips steps easily with a little resistance. It should pull pretty strong. I had a failing wire to my extruder that manifested in wimpy extrusion.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/04 | 1,423 | 5,258 | <issue_start>username_0: I am new to 3D printing which we all are/were at some point. I have **no** clue how to address the issue which likely is reason why I haven't found the solution yet. So if you see that this question has been posted elsewhere, please link it! Thanks!
I have had this issue for a while, however right now, one minute ago, it worked kind of. The text below is a description of the problem that very often occurs!
So the issue is basically the extruder. I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3. In it's software you have a *"Load"* and *"Change"* option which you change and load filament with. When I load filament it goes through the tube but it never exits the extruder. The common answer is that the nozzle is clogged. I have honestly checked this, it isn't the problem. I have cleaned it as Flashforge says and I have also been using really small metallic pins to push out **all** the filament. So that isn't the issue.
Sometimes the filament also gets stuck inside the tube. Or the Bowden tube I think it is called.
I did a test 10 minutes ago, it went through the tube smoothly. No filament came out at the other end however. I then changed the filament, which means I pulled it back. I then saw that a part of the filament had gotten stuck at the end of the tube. It didn't pull all the filament back, a very small bit of the filament had somehow gotten stuck?
As it doesn't extrude filament when I load the filament it has nothing with the calibration to do what I know. So my own conclusion would be that something between the tube and extruder is going crazy. And I know, that isn't a good conclusion. However I don't know how to address it as I said before.
I know that it's hard to troubleshoot a text, so I will upload a video for you guys reading this. I really just want my 3D printer working again as the company said it probably isn't anything wrong with the machine..
When the machine starts working again it prints, but not good. Here is a video of how hit prints a big "F". [Link](https://youtu.be/kis_jNTRgI0). Sometimes it stops extruding filament for a while then it starts to extrude again..
There is also an image of the print below
The machine is printing at 195 °C! I appreciate all the help I can get, I just want my machine fully working again.
---
Here is a video of the Bowden tube: [Link](https://youtu.be/lFGUK6hUmkA)
Here is a video of the extruder issue: [Link](https://youtu.be/Y6u2Pi2xINk)
Here are two videos regarding the cold pull, I "try" to speak English so you get more information this time! [Link](https://youtu.be/ZfnNGwdTufI) [Link 2](https://youtu.be/IQmYHiYgoEo)<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, the Volcano or the Super Volcano allow for larger flow rate (typically when using larger nozzles), that is where they were designed for. Just the nozzle will not help you, you need this larger nozzle shaft to be inside a Volcano heater block, else you cannot transfer the heat.
According to measurements from Metaform, the volumetric flow of a Volcano hotend is larger than the regular E3D V6 hotend.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5p6Le.png)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is opinion-based, but the volcano has drawbacks that affect print quality, mine is oozier and sloppier than a V6 with the shorter, more precise melt zone. It isn’t a slam dunk upgrade, more of a special applications part. I think there is no point to using a Volcano unless you’re running big nozzles fast, like .8 mm.
Your 5 mm3/s throughput is low, the V6 is generally known as a ~13 mm3/s volumetric throughput, vs the Volcano at 25 mm3/s. This is due to the low temperature you favor, possibly something not ideal with your extruder. I could see...
* just living with the slow speed. I realize I vastly prefer print quality over print speed because one takes no human interaction and the other does.
* do what everyone else does. go hotter, plastic viscosity goes way down even with a 5-10 degree increase
* increase extruder torque. If you can increase stepper current safely (know the limit for your driver and motor!) with a trim pot on the stepper driver, you may be able to get more torque before the motor skips steps. This can increase motor temperature. If you get more torque, at some point the filament will slip and get carved up by the extruder’s hobbed gear. Double geared extruder designs like Bondtech can grip the filament from both sides and get more traction on the filament if you want to get diabolical shoving the filament.
* use a larger nozzle for faster printing at your preferred temp. I’m loving the .6 mm nozzle for bigger prints. It has most of the detail of the .4 mm but double the plastic comes out. A larger nozzle hole means less pressure in the nozzle at a given temp and extruder feed rate
If you think the extruder might not be all it can be, try heating up the nozzle hotter than usual, and get the extruder going slow and steady, and pull a little on the filament by hand, see if it skips steps easily with a little resistance. It should pull pretty strong. I had a failing wire to my extruder that manifested in wimpy extrusion.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/04 | 913 | 3,381 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been looking at the Ender series and decided to take the plunge. But I'm unsure on electrical matters. The 110 or 220 volt switch, I assume goes to 220 V as I live in the UK but my main question is, from what I've read they come with an EU plug and a uk adapter, is it safer to switch to a 'kettle lead' for it to have it's own fuse and be grounded or is the adapter it comes with fine? *(I've never been a fan of adapter and I've read in different places that they're fine or that they are horrible.)*
Please help as if I need to buy a cable I'll do it the same time I buy the printer. Thank you all in advance for any help I get, hope to join this community properly as soon as the printers come back in stock anywhere.<issue_comment>username_1: The fuse *may* be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding another fuse in the form of a proper UK plug certainly won't hurt.
I'd certainly do this, too. Fuseless plugs have no place in my home/workplace
For the rest - yes, the 220V position for the switch is good. Grounding, again, certainly can't hurt, but the PSU is probably double-insulated, which doesn't require it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Safety First!
=============
To guarantee proper grouning and avoid putting the machine on a static charge level against the ground of the house you need to properly connect the ground wires to the ground wire of the house. This is done by using a grounded power cord with a **C13-plug on the machine end** and a proper, grounded plug fitting your sockets on the other end.
Proper plugs
------------
In most of the continental EU (safe France), you usually can use a Shuko (Schutzkontakt) TypeF/CEE 7/3 while the Type E+F/CEE 7/7 plug adds France on the house end, as these are proper grounded 3-wire plugs. But in the UK you need a **Type G/BS 1363 plug**, with or without a fuse.
Fuses
-----
Because the machine operates on mains voltage in the PSU, it usually already has a fuse mounted inside the PSU, so a fused plug is not strictly needed, however it is not a bad idea to include an extra fuse - technically you'd end with 3 in total if you are properly grounded because the circuits breaker-box fuse is there too.
Wire Extensions
---------------
What would be a bad idea though is to use any extension cord in the wiring that is not grounded because it might use a plastic ground pin or lack the metal contact surface needed to ground the cord.
Improper plugs
--------------
A 2-wire "Europlug". Europlug CEE 7/16 is only rated for 250V/2.5A and **not grounded**, thus it is **not** suitable for operating a 3D printer , and I strongly advise **not** to use a gritish folding plug either as it is not grounded!
Safety Mantra!
==============
Let me reiterate this: **Only use grounded connections from machine to socket or you risk creating a charge on the machine!**
Check your socket's ground if you are not sure it is properly installed. For further information, I strongly suggest watch [Angus (Makers Muse)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1OuYg7AJjw) with how he discovered a problem with his extension cords leading to a potential dangerous charge on his machine and [DIY3D Tech](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jYZDLOV4Jc) explaining the basics of the problem and how to solve it to you again!
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/04 | 1,532 | 5,571 | <issue_start>username_0: It seems to me that the size of hole in the nozzle shouldn't matter in and of itself. If you program in the layer height and line width, then the same amount of plastic has to be extruded, no matter what size the hole is in the nozzle.
Of course I understand that, mechanically, the best results are got with the line width slightly larger than the nozzle size. We couldn't print a 0.3 mm line with a 0.6 mm nozzle, and trying to print a 1 mm line with a 0.4 mm nozzle probably wouldn't work well either. But in terms of what the actual G-code needs to do, the nozzle size doesn't seem to matter. After all, printers feed filament based on length/volume, so the size of the nozzle shouldn't impact the amount of plastic extruded.
What prompted this question: I want to switch from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.8 mm nozzle, but I cannot find out how to change the nozzle size in Cura. There are many bug reports about the nozzle size setting disappearing or not displaying in Cura, and I think that's my problem. However, in the troubleshooting threads, many people claim that you can just change the line width and ignore the nozzle size completely and the result will be the same. In other words, if I want to switch from 0.4 nozzle and 0.48 line width, to 0.8 nozzle and 1 mm line width, I can just keep my slicer set to 0.4 nozzle size, but increase the line width to 1 mm, and if I physically install a 0.8 mm nozzle, it will do exactly the same thing. There are even Cura developers saying the nozzle size setting will be removed in a future version completely.
This may depend on the way individual slicers work. Has anyone tried switching between say 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle settings, while leaving the line width the same (say 0.8 mm line width for both), and see any differences in the G-code? I can't test this myself, because I can't change the nozzle size right now...<issue_comment>username_1: CNC kitchen tested various extrusion widths with various nozzles and in fact there's no difference, only the line width matters.
<https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/big-nozzles-how-do-they-make-your-3d-prints-stronger>
Of course it's up to you to avoid too thick layers with small nozzles.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I never thought about that!
I do know from experience that Cura uses nozzle sizes to sanity check your settings, warning you if you do something unreasonable. That is reason enough to include the feature for me. However, I did wonder what, if any, differenced this actually makes, so I tested it and here's my results:
I went through and tested it on the [3DVerkstan Face Mask](https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3DPX-013306). I compiled the same model in the same place in **Cura**, the only differences between the two being that I changed the nozzle size from 0.4 mm to 0.8 mm. I then ran the VS Code Diff Checker on the files as well as loaded the exported gcode back into Cura to compare and got some interesting results.
1. The estimated times and filament usages are very slightly different: 2689 seconds for 0.8 and 2698 seconds for 0.4, 6.18899 m for 0.8 and 6.18883 m for 0.4. This means something different is happening somewhere, but it's very similar to within a rounding error.
2. The brim is exactly the same for both. No differences whatsoever in the G-code.
3. When the model starts printing, everything in the gcode becomes different. This seems to be down to a few reasons: (note these photos were taken by exporting gcode then re-opening that gcode into Cura)
* Differing layer start positions
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hCtAv.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rWdnG.png)
* Possibly a difference in line overlaps? On the 0.8 mm file, cura shows a larger gap between the brim and the part, and more overlap between the outer wall and inner walls when compared to the 0.4 mm file.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WDzWQ.jpg)
That's all the differences I can observe in this model. Every layer is different in the gocde, but it seems to be down to the two differences noted above. IMO, that's all inconsequential and you should be fine to change all the settings to how they should be for a larger nozzle and be just fine. Other than the warnings, nozzle sizes may be a holdover from a past version when they were more useful, or simply may have just seemed like a reasonable feature to put in at the time and no one really thought about it.
---
As far as changing nozzle size goes, I go to `Preferences` > `Configure Cura` > `Printers` > `Machine Settings` > `Extruder 1` > `Nozzle Size`. If that option is not there, consider creating a new machine of a different type that's similar to what you have. I have an Anet-A8 but use the Prusa i3 printer type in Cura since that's most similar to what I have.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I’m using sli3r. It use nozzle size for some auto value like auto extrusion width which calculate by 105% of nozzle diameter and prevent some error like setting layer height greater than nozzle diameter.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Technically, you don't need the nozzle diameter. All you need is line width, layer height and filament diameter. After all, all the settings are just used to create a displacement of the filament feedstock (volumetric displacement).
But slicers do use the diameter to set initial values for some parameters, e.g. the wall width.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/06 | 1,074 | 4,064 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Monoprice MP10 Mini, a cut-down Creality CR-10 with lobotomized firmware. Heated bed.
I'm trying to do PLA prints, but have been unable to find a usable temperature.
If I set the temperatures (either nozzle or bed) too low, the initial raft layers don't stick, the print shrivels up, and the result is a tangle.
If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.
If I start with a high temp but reduce it during the print, the layers stop sticking to each other, solid areas still warp, and the printer eventually fails to extrude anything (presumably the filament congeals inside the extruder or tube, that's very unpleasant to recover from, fortunately I have some cleaning filament).
Tried with multiple types of filament and multiple models (from thingiverse, converted into gcode using cura 3.6)
What should I be trying?<issue_comment>username_1: Try bed at 50°C and hotend at 215°C, these are safe values.
Enable retraction in the slicer, to avoid/reduce oozing during long moves, but with Bowden setups finding a good value is trickier. Try with 6 mm.
Set the first layer height properly, but do it AFTER the bed has been heated for 5-10 minutes.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Here is the important information from your question:
>
> If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.
>
>
>
If you have material leaking from the nozzle during moves, this means your retraction settings are wrong - either off entirely, or insufficient distance. As I understand it your printer has a bowden extruder, so retraction distance needs to be at least 5 mm and probably 6 to 6.5 mm. Note that "Retract at layer change" is a separate and independent option from "Enable retraction", and is not really important; "Enable retraction" is the one that must be on. "Retraction Minimum Travel" should also be set very low (the Cura default of twice the line width, or slightly lower than that, is probably good).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If you get one of those lazer pointer thermometer things from the hardware store for checking the temperature of hot water pipes and stuff you can usually heat your hot end up and look at the actual temperature of your nozzle. If it's hotter or colder than the temperature that your filment is rated for them there should be a line of code in your firmware that will allow you to offset the temperature making it perfectly calibrated spot on. Then you should never have to change it ever again
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: First, you shouldn't need a raft for most PLA prints. That will help you get better bed adhesion at lower temperatures.
Second, you can reduce the stringing by increasing travel speeds (120 mm/s is not too fast) and a small amount of retraction: around 1.5 mm for direct drive and 5-6 mm for bowden.
With those settings, you should be able to print most PLA with a bed at anywhere from 50-60 °C and an extruder at anywhere from 190 to 215 °C.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: As @<NAME> suggested, the z-offset was wrong. I needed to bring the nozzle and the bed closer together. The printer's default is -0.50 mm, I had to change to -0.78 mm or so to get it to stick. But then I need to reduce set it back to -0.50 or -0.40 during the print to avoid the nozzle banging into the model.
I used 205C for nozzle and 35C for bed and it works great, virtually no warping.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/06 | 1,040 | 3,277 | <issue_start>username_0: My printer is ignoring the "Z offset" setting in Cura and the "Bed Z" stored in the printer LCD settings? It has been working before but after a firmware update of my printer, it doesn't work. Even after flashing the previous firmware back "Bed Z" changes no longer affect anything. No matter if I change "Bed Z" during prints or if I use the "Z offset" option in Cura, the nozzle still prints at the same height.<issue_comment>username_1: I have the same problem. You need to check your G-code to detect where's the problem.
Try comparing the G-code file with different values of the Z offset.
In my case it looks like this:
No offset
```
;LAYER_COUNT:107
;LAYER:0
M106 S255
G1 F300 Z0.84
G0 F6000 X124.645 Y78.208 Z0.84
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F300 Z0.44
G1 F1500 E0
```
With offset (comments made by Cura)
```
;LAYER_COUNT:107
;LAYER:0
M106 S255
G1 F300 Z2.06 ;adjusted by z offset
G92 Z0.84 ;consider this the original z before offset
G0 F6000 X119.093 Y42.498 Z0.84
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F300 Z0.44
```
I hope this helps.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Z offset in Cura
----------------
Z offset in Cura is nothing more than an additional increase/decrease in height calculated throughout the whole file. This does require the installment of a plugin from the Ultimaker Cura "Marketplace" called "Z Offset Setting" by developer "fieldOfView". This should work (if not, this implies the plugin is defective, version 3.5.7 appears to work as it should which is the latest version to date), the G-code is parsed (as in post-processed) by the plugin to recalculate all Z values (a redefinition of the Z level with `G92` might have been a lot easier...), as an example an object is sliced without an offset, a negative offset (-0.333 mm) and a positive offset (0.333 mm) below. The layer numbered `;LAYER:0` will start printing at:
No offset:
```
G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.27
```
Negative offset:
```
G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z-0.063 ;adjusted by z offset
```
Positive offset:
```
G0 F4285.7 X81.669 Y84.791 Z0.603 ;adjusted by z offset
```
Z offset in firmware
--------------------
A Z offset is the distance between the nozzle and the build plate surface that is needed for good adhesion. This is obtained from levelling the bed putting a piece of A4/Letter paper in between the nozzle and build plate during levelling of the bed. Basically this is an offset from the endstop position. Using the menu of a Marlin operated printer you can manually adjust this value e.g. during printing of the first layer by turning the jog dial for Z babystepping. The paper levelling method is a manual/mechanical Z offset that can be extended with the value changed by the menu. When storing such an offset you basically change the offset from the endstop position, this can be done with [G-code `M206`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M206.html). Storing the value to be retained for future prints, the value needs to be stored to memory (using [G-code `M500`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M500.html) or an equivalent save settings from the menu of the printer controller).
*Note this offset is something different when using a Z probe. The Z probe offset in firmware is set by `M851` or `G29.1`, depending on the used firmware.*
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/06 | 858 | 3,310 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a very frustrating problem, my extruder clogs up pretty much immediately after cleaning it from the previous clog and I cannot figure out what the hell is going wrong.
I use a genuine E3D V6 in direct drive configuration (dual drive) and I print only PLA.
I have tried many nozzle offsets from the bed but because I have to test so frequently I am just printing in the air for now.
This is what I tried:
* To print using the following temperatures: 200, 205, 210 and 220 °C
* Using different brands of PLA
* Lubricating filament
* Installing a filament dust cleaner
* Using both Bowden and direct configurations (my retraction setting for my direct drive setup is 0.8 mm, I am not sure what I used for the bowden but because the tube was fairly short it was probably around 3 mm. However I am not even printing I am simply running and stopping the extruder stepper, I am not using any retraction at all right now)
* Buying a brand new E3D V6
* Trying both 12 V and 24 V heat cartridges (with the respective power supplies of course)
* Checking the temperature with other sensors (yes the temperature is displayed correctly)
* Using acetone baths to clean all parts.
* Using stronger and weaker heat sink fans and fan options
* Push the filament manually
* Performing PID tunes
Even after all that the extruder clogs up usually mere seconds after it has been fully cleaned and inspected before being re-assembled. I make sure there is no bit of plastic or dust/dirt present before I re-assemble the extruder. I also hot tighten the nozzle but I also tried to run it without doing it but it made no difference.
I would love some help with this problem because I am pulling my hair out figuring out why this keeps happening.<issue_comment>username_1: I have had one roll of filament that did this. I'd get a jam, clean it out, and immediately jam again.
I got the filament from a friend who had reported problems using it, but I thought, "I have a Prusa3D i3m3-mmu2, I can print with anything." Unfortunately, I could not.
I threw away the filament (first I've ever jetisoned so callously), replaced the nozzle, and was back in business.
So, some filament just doesn't work.
But, there is another possible problem to check -- you might have a problem with stepper driver. Even with low current from a blown driver or badly adjusted driver, the extruder motor may spin. It may even be able to extrude filament into the air through the hot nozzle. But, the torque may not be sufficient to force the molten plastic as it pushes against the build plate.
Pushing the molten plastic against the build plate so that it "smooshes" well requires pressure, which comes from the push on the filament from the extruder gear, which comes from the torque of the motor, which comes from the current from the driver, which may be either blown or seriously mal-adjusted.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It turned out that the stepper driver on my duet 2 wifi board is defective which resulted in the extruder motor being poorly controlled which in turn caused the clogs, using a different stepper driver fixed the issue.
I am a bit bummed out that one of my drivers turned out to be defective since the board has barely been used but at least I got my printer to work.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/09 | 839 | 3,250 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an extrusion problem with my creality CR 10 3D printer while printing.
I am using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle with a 1.75 mm diameter PLA and I use Cura as my slicer.
This printer worked perfectly fine and I stopped using it a few months ago right after the problem started.
When I try printing a `.gcode` file, the first layer is very thin but visible (it seems like the glass bed is engraved). However, after the first layer is complete, the extruder stops working properly. It moves forward then jumps backwards so it looks like the filament isn’t moving (I can also see the extruder’s marks on the filament). Also, the axis seem to move fine in all directions as I’m able to see a clear first layer.
However, when I go into the “prepare” menu of my printer and move the extruder, it works great as the filament flow is very smooth.
Hence, the problem is only visible while printing. I don’t think there’s a problem with the `.gcode` files as I printed them perfectly fine beforehand.<issue_comment>username_1: Clearly you're having an extrusion problem. Extrusion problems usually come either from a clogged nozzle (as @<NAME>. said) or from the extruder it self. To determine where the problem is located I would first do a flow rate test using [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWBkPIXTOlo&feature=emb_logo). When doing this test you can determine if the extruder is grinding the filament or if it's not grabbing it too much. After the calibration of the flowrate you can be certain that the printer is (by .gcode) pushing the correct amount of filament. If the problem persist I would first do an unclogging (since it's cheaper than the following option) using something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7tUVLku14).
If both previous options do not solve the problem, I would highly recommend you to by a mk-8 like metal extruder. After a while, the plastic one that comes with the printer loses force and you'll lose steps. Personally, I had a similar problem where the first layer was printed in a droplet pattern and was solved by changing the extruder to a metal one.
Try these options and if the problem persist you could upload some pictures of the first layer or a video. Other possibilities I think of are that the filament is having trouble passing through the Bowden tube or maybe you'll have to reasemble the hotend.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Without images of the problem it is difficult to diagnose, but, the described symptoms sounds as if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the extruder not strong enough, the filament flow is very limited due to pressure caused by a very small opening between the nozzle and the bed. Skipping of the extruder may wear out (grind) the filament and stop extrusion altogether.
Re-level the bed with a (thicker) piece of paper or with a feeler gauge. Alternatively, increase the height of the nozzle by re-defining the height or add an extra Z raise in the slicer (see question: "[How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13330/how-can-i-add-an-offset-to-the-first-layer-to-increase-clearance/13334)").
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/09 | 1,044 | 3,914 | <issue_start>username_0: I've had the Ender 5 Pro, as is, for 3 months.
After I tried a cheap PLA filament (maybe too cheap), it clogged the nozzle. I cleaned it, but any other filament I have would have similar problems from then on. After some days doing test prints, it clogged again. This time, I heated it up to 240 ºC, I unscrew the nozzle, cleaned it up, chopped the Capricorn tube (it had clear symptoms of a previous tube not reaching the bottom of the hotend and leaking material around it), perfectly aligned, cleaned the heating block with a brass brush, started screwing the nozzle… and it never reaches the end. It even jiggles a little bit (by "jiggles", I mean that when the hotend is hot, you can push the nozzle back and forth, and it does move... like it was a joint, and not a threaded bolt), like it was too small for the block. I try screwing a new nozzle. Same happens.
To me it looks like the heating block thread broke, but I can't be sure. I tried a thicker nozzle (0.8 mm, but same thread in the end) and it worked. I could feed filament and it wouldn't look like clogged (at least for 15 cm of feeding filament, when in previous cases it was almost instantaneous).
Time to get a new heating block? Any recommendation?
Would another kind of heating block be better?
Edit: Here's a picture of the bottom of the heating block. Now it's clear there's a metal chip glued with material, and almost (if any) no thread at all.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt8Cb.jpg)
Another question. Could it have been that cheap material that caused the clogging, or was it just a lack of proper maintenance?<issue_comment>username_1: Clearly you're having an extrusion problem. Extrusion problems usually come either from a clogged nozzle (as @<NAME>. said) or from the extruder it self. To determine where the problem is located I would first do a flow rate test using [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWBkPIXTOlo&feature=emb_logo). When doing this test you can determine if the extruder is grinding the filament or if it's not grabbing it too much. After the calibration of the flowrate you can be certain that the printer is (by .gcode) pushing the correct amount of filament. If the problem persist I would first do an unclogging (since it's cheaper than the following option) using something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7tUVLku14).
If both previous options do not solve the problem, I would highly recommend you to by a mk-8 like metal extruder. After a while, the plastic one that comes with the printer loses force and you'll lose steps. Personally, I had a similar problem where the first layer was printed in a droplet pattern and was solved by changing the extruder to a metal one.
Try these options and if the problem persist you could upload some pictures of the first layer or a video. Other possibilities I think of are that the filament is having trouble passing through the Bowden tube or maybe you'll have to reasemble the hotend.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Without images of the problem it is difficult to diagnose, but, the described symptoms sounds as if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the extruder not strong enough, the filament flow is very limited due to pressure caused by a very small opening between the nozzle and the bed. Skipping of the extruder may wear out (grind) the filament and stop extrusion altogether.
Re-level the bed with a (thicker) piece of paper or with a feeler gauge. Alternatively, increase the height of the nozzle by re-defining the height or add an extra Z raise in the slicer (see question: "[How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13330/how-can-i-add-an-offset-to-the-first-layer-to-increase-clearance/13334)").
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/10 | 688 | 2,605 | <issue_start>username_0: I have this CTC i3 printer; when I print square test prints, as it moves along the Y-axis back to zero (front). It extrudes lines but very thin or none at all.
But opposite direction along the Y axis is 100 %
<issue_comment>username_1: Clearly you're having an extrusion problem. Extrusion problems usually come either from a clogged nozzle (as @Adam S. said) or from the extruder it self. To determine where the problem is located I would first do a flow rate test using [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWBkPIXTOlo&feature=emb_logo). When doing this test you can determine if the extruder is grinding the filament or if it's not grabbing it too much. After the calibration of the flowrate you can be certain that the printer is (by .gcode) pushing the correct amount of filament. If the problem persist I would first do an unclogging (since it's cheaper than the following option) using something like [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7tUVLku14).
If both previous options do not solve the problem, I would highly recommend you to by a mk-8 like metal extruder. After a while, the plastic one that comes with the printer loses force and you'll lose steps. Personally, I had a similar problem where the first layer was printed in a droplet pattern and was solved by changing the extruder to a metal one.
Try these options and if the problem persist you could upload some pictures of the first layer or a video. Other possibilities I think of are that the filament is having trouble passing through the Bowden tube or maybe you'll have to reasemble the hotend.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Without images of the problem it is difficult to diagnose, but, the described symptoms sounds as if the nozzle is too close to the bed. If the nozzle is too close to the bed, and the extruder not strong enough, the filament flow is very limited due to pressure caused by a very small opening between the nozzle and the bed. Skipping of the extruder may wear out (grind) the filament and stop extrusion altogether.
Re-level the bed with a (thicker) piece of paper or with a feeler gauge. Alternatively, increase the height of the nozzle by re-defining the height or add an extra Z raise in the slicer (see question: "[How can I add an offset to the first layer to increase clearance?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13330/how-can-i-add-an-offset-to-the-first-layer-to-increase-clearance/13334)").
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/12 | 1,046 | 3,752 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to compress different 3D files, but find it difficult to find the right software to compress the file.
What are the most suitable 3D file compressors to compress 3D files like STL, OBJ and STEP?
I have tried Draco, and mac zip compressor.<issue_comment>username_1: If a general-purpose compression tool using a good compression algorithm, such as 7zip or gzip (for linux and command line enthusiasts) is not providing good compression it is not likely that your files *can* be compressed very much.
This applies to a wide variety of binary files beyond just 3D print files. There is always a fundamental limit on compression (since it works by finding patterns and removing redundancy in files), and well-designed binary file formats generally can't be compressed very far.
You may however have some luck with changing the settings on your CAD tool to output less detailed files (though you this is obviously a tradeoff.)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: 3D files differ greatly in size and what they contain:
STL
===
STL Stereolithography files were invented by 3D Systems to store surfaces. Originally it used ASCII text to store information by naming triplets of vertex positions for each triangle (facet). Since that got too large, newer STL are Binary, which is quite smaller.
Many programs can export them, their size is dependant on the number of surfaces. You can reduce the size of an STL by lowering the number of surfaces at the cost of detail.
OBJ
===
OBJ was invented by Wavefront as a means of storing 3D information. It stores the data as plain text by storing vertices, to which they connect and what texture is on surfaces spun up by the vertices.
In comparison to STL, they can be bigger if they include surface information. Programs that can't do STL usually support OBJ. Slicers take either. You can reduce the size of the file by reducing complexity.
STEP
====
STEP files don't save 3D items per se, they store instructions for CAD programs to generate a 3D item. This makes them extremely information-dense and can create highly complex items with a somewhat minimum of file size. They also allow us to easily modify the file.
However, STEP files can't be sliced directly and need to be opened by a CAD program.
Comparison
==========
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iGcpT.png "Simple hollow cube from two C-clamps")
This is a simple object generated by a mere extrusion, rounding corners, extruding again and a sweep, then copying the item and moving it into position.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EDOM6.png "Tools sequence")
But how does that compare as STL and OBJ? Well, the results of this item are rather small in either case, but you get a rough gist of their general comparability.
The STL is 74.3 kB, STEP is 90 kB, OBJ is 95.4 kB.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tJLsx.png "STL")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LvJyp.png "STEP")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DncAn.png "OBJ")
However, in a maximum compressed `.zip` archive, things change a lot:
* STEP shrinks by 86 % to 13 kB
* OBJ by 84 % to 16 kB
* STL by a mere 73 % to 21 kB.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BWSUk.png "Compressed")
Conclusion
----------
STEP is the best to give out in a zip archive if you want others to edit it. OBJ is a tad smaller in a zip archive than STL, but also can contain additional data.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/05/13 | 574 | 2,316 | <issue_start>username_0: When I have overhangs in my model, Cura colors them red. However, I noticed if I make layer thickness thinner, the red area is reduced or disappears.
This could mean that thinner layer thickness is better for overhang, but it could also mean that a larger ratio of line width to layer thickness is better. It makes sense that if line width is 4X the layer thickness (such as 0.15 layers with 0.6 line width), overhang performance should be better than if line width is only 2X (such as 0.3 layers with the same 0.6 line width.
Is there a model that explains the optimum ratio of line thickness to layer height? Is only the ratio important, or is layer height also important by itself?<issue_comment>username_1: In terms of Cura's model for showing overhangs, I'm nearly sure it's just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that's what makes sense mathematically:
At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the "run" - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the "rise" - the layer height.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.
However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no *a priori* optimal value.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air.
If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed.
Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/14 | 707 | 2,542 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got an Anycubic Predator (aka Anycubic D). I followed the official instructions and leveled my printer.
The first annoying problem I ran into is that after the auto-leveling, the level test printing shows that the printer wasn't leveled at all. I tried about 4-5 times, and finally leveled the printer (I thought I just got lucky).
The second problem that isn't solved is that the prints I get are of poor quality. Shown in *figure 1* and *figure 2*. The cube should be 20x20x20 mm, but what I got here is 19.6(x) x 20.4(y) x 20.5(z) mm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeclv.jpg)
*Figure 1 - X-Y (side) view of calibration square*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YkU0.jpg)
*Figure 2 - Z (top) view of calibration square*
Does anyone have any idea about how to improve the printer's printing quality? Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: In terms of Cura's model for showing overhangs, I'm nearly sure it's just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that's what makes sense mathematically:
At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the "run" - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the "rise" - the layer height.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.
However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no *a priori* optimal value.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air.
If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed.
Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/14 | 573 | 2,348 | <issue_start>username_0: From what I understand, UV curing of resin prints works by starting a chemical reaction that hardens the resin permanently.
Also, a curing step after print is needed to speed up the print and also to reduce the curing during print, which would cure resin beyond the current layer.
However, what is the transmissivity of UV light in partially cured prints? If I print a more massive object, or if I use an opaque resin, how deep will the object harden properly? Absorption is always exponential, meaning that it decreases quickly with depth.
Depending on the resin, how thick prints can be effectively cured? This information is not provided with the resin, which I actually would expect from reputable manufacturers.<issue_comment>username_1: In terms of Cura's model for showing overhangs, I'm nearly sure it's just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that's what makes sense mathematically:
At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the "run" - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the "rise" - the layer height.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.
However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no *a priori* optimal value.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air.
If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed.
Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/15 | 1,331 | 4,921 | <issue_start>username_0: Hoping to get some help with something I'm trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, due to my being a noob with 3D modeling in general, I'm coming here for hopefully more direct help.
```
Env. Details: OS: Windows 10
Word size of OS: 64-bit
Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit
Version: 0.17.13541 (Git)
Build type: Release
Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-17
Hash: 9948ee4f1570df9216862a79705afb367b2c6ffb
Python version: 2.7.14
Qt version: 4.8.7
Coin version: 4.0.0a
OCC version: 7.2.0
Locale: English/UnitedStates (en_US)
```
Essentially, I have a need to design some housing for a small electornics board. Due to the nature of 3D printing being less than ideal for bending/snapping locks, I've decided to use small screws to hold multiple layers of housing together.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBSLA.png)
SketchUp Free proved to be a super intuitive, easy to understand 3D modeling software, tho is limited in functionality due to paid tiers.
Unfortunately, FreeCAD felt like a confusing cross between early 2000s Microsoft Paint and Eclipse (Java). However as the open source alternative, I understand it's incredibly powerful and can/should be able to do what most 3D modeling software is capable of, if you know how to use it properly - and that's where my lack of understanding shines through. Research into my use case revealed a plugin (Fasteners Workbench) which seemed purpose built for dealing with screws/threads, and I greatly prefer this approach due to being able to select standardized sizes.
On to the problem:
I decided to sketch out the main design for the housing in Sketchup, and am happy with it, though I am missing the holes in the four corners. To add this, I decided to export the file from Sketchup as STL and import it to FreeCAD. Once in FreeCAD, I switched to the fasteners workbench and created a screwtap of arbitrary length. Now, from most tutorials I've watched, removing one piece from another is a boolean operation, often a cut or an intersection. However, when I highlight both the part object and the screwtap and select the CUT boolean operation, what I expect to happen (the screwtap was "cut" or carved out of the part object) did not.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWykE.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqkC7.png)
I'm wondering if:
- My understanding of the boolean operation is wrong. There is a different function that is used for "boring" threaded holes?
- My process is wrong. Does exporting an STL from sketchup free not work for certain operations when importing to FreeCAD?
- My models are off. I have an understanding that "grouping" parts of models is big when putting a model together from parts, so as to simplify life. I'm wondering if it's also required in these cases? Attempting to do the boolean operation in sketchup failed but did require having grouped components. I'm not sure this is the case in FreeCAD, or if I'm already doing this?
Would appreciate any help with this. Attaching the FreeCAD file [here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/17_NEe8SXjl54cQzKhfzkMZsMBHSc9e5X/view?usp=sharing).<issue_comment>username_1: In terms of Cura's model for showing overhangs, I'm nearly sure it's just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that's what makes sense mathematically:
At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the "run" - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the "rise" - the layer height.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.
However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no *a priori* optimal value.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air.
If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed.
Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/16 | 1,902 | 7,095 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm new to 3D printing and I noticed some problems with my print.
I've printed it 3 times and releveled the bed. Now, I found that the right lower corner always has holes,
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZK0WA.jpg "Printed model on bed shows incomplete coverage during initial layers")
and some stringing problems
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpjYF.jpg "Printed model on bed shows stringing")
Lastly, the place where there should be a full line suddenly becomes string-like, and it always happens at the same place.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Fr55.jpg "Printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZz3J.jpg "Another printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like")
It's like my extruder pulls out the filament or fails to create filament in the area that should be filled with filament. Is it normal or did I set my printer wrong? I'm afraid it might cause holes in my new print.
There's also some stringing problem that causes the layer to be uneven.
Slicer: Cura 4.6
Settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQYf9.png "Cura Speed settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/84ZNv.png "Cura Travel settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbboi.png "Cura Material settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdrDd.png "Cura Cooling settings")
My printer is Anycubic 4Max Pro<issue_comment>username_1: From the wispy horizontal lines within the perimeters in your second image, it appears that the nozzle is still oozing material during the travel moves. This is likely causing the hole in the corner and the wispy perimeters too. When the extruder reinserts the filament into the hotend after a travel move, it expects the same amount of material to be in the nozzle as when it extracted the filament, but some material has oozed out during the travel move so that is not the case. I had a similar issue with my printer, and was able to mitigate the problem by increasing the *retraction extra prime amount* in the material section of Cura. This should compensate for the material loss during the travel move by reinserting the filament slightly farther when starting the extrusion. This solution is not perfect as different lengths of travel allow different volumes of filament to ooze from the nozzle. If you want perfect prints, you may have to tune this to the model you are printing: larger models usually require larger travel moves which would allow more time for plastic to ooze from the nozzle.
If you try this, make sure to look for blobs at the start of extrude moves. If the prime amount is set to high, it can create blobs on the side of the model (or inside depending on which perimeter is extruded first) which could cause tolerance issues on more complex parts.
Personally, I have also added a small coast distance to the end of each extrusion (located in Cura's experimental section). This allows the nozzle to ooze into the perimeter of the part which should decrease the stringing on travel moves, and thus loss of material on travel moves.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Anycubic 4Max Pro appears to be a direct drive printer (extruder motor is right on top of hotend). The 6.5 mm retraction on in your slicer settings is more typical of a Bowden setup, where the extruder motor lives off of the moving carriage, and has to move extra to compensate for slack in the tube to the hotend. Direct drive retraction distance is typically 1 mm to 3 mm. I bet you can retract faster than 25 mm/s- the speed matters. Also, 60 mm/s travel speed is quite slow. 150 mm/s is typical. Faster travel means less time to ooze.
Your initial layer print speed of 20mm/s is good, slow slow makes the first layer stick better. I don’t see your 1st layer thickness setting, but I have had good success with using a thick first layer with a chunky, wide line width (like 150% of nozzle size), even if the following layers are fine. The idea being that more plastic and height in the initial layer makes it less temperamental as far as bed leveling goes, and it holds together nicely.
The cobweb-like lines are from the Combing Mode setting in Cura, that ignores the retraction when traveling through infill. Unfortunately there is a setting that also ignores retraction on the bottom layer, you want to change that under “combing mode” it is set to “not in skin”, or combing is set to off.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I see this is an old post but I type anyway if someone else stumbles up in here with the same problem.
First of all, I have a Qidi X-max printer and it printed exactly as in the picture. I am not 100 percent sure because pictures don't tell everything. I googled it very hard to find people that had the same issue. I only find this but it didn't help me so much.
I took apart my printing head on the machine, it is built with a direct extruder. I found some screws were not tightened and the block was a bit loose. I could screw it in 1 whole turn. After that, I cleaned the gear for the extruder so all the old filament was gone. There was not much filament but better do it properly. After that, I screwed all back and it was gone. I can't say for sure what was the exact cause. But if I have to guess I think it was because of not having properly tightened screws. This problem occurred every time when it was starting a new layer. It was not squeezing properly from the beginning and after maybe 3-4 mm everything squeezing as it should. New layers and seams were affected by this. Holes at the beginning of the layer and holes in seams. I also tried increasing the temp and flow. Flow helped a little but not much. So check all the screws. The ones I found were holding the print head. If that doesn't help do as I did and see if that fixes the problem.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CRaZI.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pnqnq.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EHon5.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/19 | 871 | 3,314 | <issue_start>username_0: Currently, I'm using a Creality printer to print PLA (that's what I have on hand) but I'm definitely interested in working with other materials that require higher temperatures (both much higher, and just enough higher that the stock hotend is very marginal) in the future.
I understand that all-metal hotends are less forgiving and that they particularly are not the best for printing PLA, and shouldn't be assumed to be an upgrade when only printing PLA.
What I don't understand is, *how bad are they?* Are they so bad that I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hotend whenever I print PLA or ABS? Or are they suitable for use on a printer that is sometimes used for printing PLA and ABS and sometimes printing high-temp filaments?<issue_comment>username_1: >
> Are they so bad I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hot end?
>
>
>
No, all metal hot end are not that bad, and may even be beneficial when printing at higher temperatures. You mentioned that you want to print ABS and other such materials. At temperatures this high, my understanding is that the PTFE tube in the hot end may melt, or at least become so damaged that the hot end is blocked, leading to needing to replace the tube. My first 3D printer used a PTFE ho tend, which due to the printing temperatures I was using, and lack of knowledge of the many types of hot end, the tube got damaged after about 2/5 hours, leading to me needing to replace the tube. I eventually sent the printer back, got my money back and got a printer with an all metal hot end. That has never failed me in hundreds of hours of printing.
>
> Are not the best for printing PLA
>
>
>
I have never had a problem printing PLA with an all metal hot end, however if you are printing just PLA, a PTFE hot end would be just fine, although not as versatile if you wanted to try different materials in the future.
**In Summary:**
Provided you print fast enough (I regularly print at 60 mm/s) to ensure that no filament cools down in the hot end you should be fine.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> All-metal hotends are less forgiving
>
>
>
Yes
>
> not as good for PLA
>
>
>
No
>
> but how bad?
>
>
>
That is very subjective and totally depending on the skill of the 3D printer operator! So, that part of the question cannot be answered.
Fact is that all-metal hotends are sold as being upgrades to lined versions, this is simply not true. It is a different design that can handle higher temperatures. To operate such hotends you require a little more experience as these hotends are a little less forgiving if you do not have the right slicer settings. Key parameters are hotend temperature, cold end cooling and retraction speed and length and amount of retractions in the model.
Another fact is that e.g. the Ultimaker cores concept (we opened a 0.4 mm core to see that for ourselves) doesn't use a PTFE lining, nor do other brands. They can perfectly print PLA (even with a high retraction length). The only time if failed printing PETG (higher temp than PLA) was the result of a heat creep induced clog which was caused by a cooling fan failure (the cooling fan ingested something and seized up), so just one print of a few meters of the several kilometers 2.85 mm that got printed.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/19 | 892 | 2,705 | <issue_start>username_0: [Adding custom M Codes to Marlin](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3586/adding-custom-m-codes-to-marlin) doesn't work for Marlin 2.0
How would one go about adding custom G codes or M Codes to Marlin 2.0? The Marlin\_main.cpp file does not exist.
In general for Marlin 2.0, things are organized better, but split into more files.<issue_comment>username_1: The code in 2.0.x is similar to the old branch 1.1.x, G-code is parsed in [`gcode.cpp`](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/gcode.cpp), specifically in `process_parsed_command`:
```
void GcodeSuite::process_parsed_command(const bool no_ok/*=false*/)
```
In the case statement the codes read from the G-code files are parsed (interpreted) and the appropriate method is called (e.g. `G28()` calls [`void GcodeSuite::G28()`](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/2.0.x/Marlin/src/gcode/calibrate/G28.cpp))
If you want to create your own codes, it could be an idea to start there. Also think of using a different letter and/or codes in the 10,000 range so that it will not collide with new implemented G-codes.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: 0. Choose a code in the >10,000 in case new codes are added. But in this example I will choose 13
1. Navigate to 'src' folder of Marlin
2. Edit the file `gcode.cpp` around line 223 to have a new unused number. For example, this will create a new G code function for the label `G13`.
```
...
// Handle a known G, M, or T
switch (parser.command_letter) {
case 'G': switch (parser.codenum) {
case 13: G13(); break;
case 0: case 1: G0_G1(
...
```
3. On line 375 of `gcode.h` add: `static void G13();` to declare it.
4. In my case i was reading values from an analog system. So I went to `src/temperatures` and copied `M105.cpp` to be `G13.cpp`. Then inside the file I replaced `GcodeSuite::M105` to be `GcodeSuite::G13`. I am using this to take in the weight of something using a [scale][1] but for now I just want to test functionality so here is my test function:
```
void GcodeSuite::G13() {
SERIAL_ECHOPGM(MSG_OK);
SERIAL_ECHOLNPGM("here is where weights are broadcast");
}
```
And again this is the only part I changed in my new copy of M105.cpp (a new file named G13.cpp). There is still more stuff in the file than just these few lines.
5. Upload to board
6. When going to octoprint and typing in `G13` I get:
```
Send: G13
Recv: okhere is where weights are broadcast
```
A bit more work can be done to make it look nice, but this was the hard part.
[1]: <https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bathroom-Scale-With-50-Kg-Load-Cells-and-H/>
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2020/05/20 | 266 | 1,041 | <issue_start>username_0: Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for a few days it is like I glue it to the bed with epoxy. It is impossible to remove and when I remove the black projects from the bed I see white color at the bottom of the object printed. Maybe because of too much force but I don't know why this happens.<issue_comment>username_1: This usually happens when your nozzle is too close to bed during the first layer.
Quick fix is **redo bed levelling**.
Clean your build surface.
Watch you first layer
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PAC4o.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Had this problem on my second print. The nozzle was too close to the bed. The only way I got it all off was to heat the bed. Then the PLA became a bit softer and came off pretty fast.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/05/21 | 469 | 1,630 | <issue_start>username_0: Typically in Arduinos, most of the 5 V outputs that have a limited amount of current (40 mA).
Are there any 3D printer boards, or is there even a more usual spot, where you can get a 5 V output that isn't capped by the microcontroller?
I know that USB 2.0 is (typically) limited to 500 mA especally when connected to a laptop. Just wondering if there was a way to for e.g. get a 200 mA output from one of the 5 V pins, or more if there is a stronger power supply connected to the USB port.<issue_comment>username_1: Any pin that is labeled as "5 V" can supply the full amount of current. Looking at, for example, the [Arduino MEGA pinout](http://domoticx.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Arduino-MEGA-pinout.jpg), we can see several pins labeled in red with "5 V". These are the pins you can use. Most 3D printer boards will expose the 5 V pins at several points. For example, the endstop connectors often have a 5 V pin that can be used.
The pins that are limited to 40 mA that you are thinking of are the digital pins, i.e. the pins that can be switched on/off by the microcontroller. These are actually more limited than this, and while in some cases drawing 40 mA from them may be possible, it is not a good idea.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Any 5 V "output" on those main boards would be used to power a USB host. This is because the electronics actually runs on 3.3 volts. It would be better to splice the input power (the 12 to 24 V) and use a buck converter to get down to your required 5 V. Select the right one, and you can have all the current you need.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/05/23 | 1,413 | 5,564 | <issue_start>username_0: About two months ago, I added a heated bed to my custom 3D printer in order to print larger ABS parts for my research project. The heated bed (the PCB kind) was not new, but taken from an old printer I had built, but took apart. The bed worked well for a few weeks, but after one print finished, the glass bed above the heater PCB had shattered into several pieces (represented by bed 1 in the image below) and the nozzle was below the level of the bed (I believed it had lowered into the glass causing the breakage. I haven't determined what caused this motion, but it hasn't happened since). Notably, this print was using the heated bed at 90 °C. I chalked this up to a freak accident, and since it did not happen again, just replaced the glass and kept printing.
However, as soon as the heated bed was activated after the replacement, a small crack appeared on the glass and continued to lengthen as time progressed. I took off the glass as soon as possible and prevented it from fully breaking (see bed 2 in the image below. This bed was smaller as I didn't have access to a large enough piece of glass at the time).
At this point, I figured something more than an impact caused the glass to shatter. Since both cracks occurred when the bed was heating or cooling, I figured that thermal shock could potentially be the source of the cracking, and a quick google reinforced this idea. Due to the nature of both cracks (not being straight shards but meandering around the build plate and propagating slowly), they both appeared to have been caused, or at least propagated, by thermal effects.
To try to avoid future cracking, I took care in assembling the third bed. The heater PCB was attached tightly to the glass with Kapton tape and a thin layer of thermal paste was added as an interface layer to try to get an even contact and heat distribution throughout the glass plate. I made sure that the cardboard shims (which press the glass into the clips) were not too compressed, thinking that pressure in the middle of the glass plate from the shims may have accentuated the cracking by putting the top of the glass under tension.
But after a few cycles with this new bed, the same problem appeared (bed 3 below). This time, the cracking was as severe as the first case, but no impact occurred and I was not touching the bed. The bed was heating up to temperature (90 °C) when the cracking occurred. The strangest part is, the file set to print was one I had already printed successfully on the newest bed.
At this point I am at a loss and don't know what to do next. I don't want to make another bed just to have it crack in a few prints, but I need the bed in the near future. Any suggestions to mitigate this problem would be greatly appreciated.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRWws.jpg)
**Update (currently fixed)**
I have replaced the bed with a borosilicate glass sheet, switched the heater to a stick-on 120V silicone heater (the same size as the bed), and added a PEI sheet on top. After about 2 months, it is working great and no cracks have formed. My best guess is that it was a combination of poor glass, possibly with small fractures on the edges already since I cut it myself, and the heater which was too small for the bed. Thanks for the suggestions!<issue_comment>username_1: The problem is in the design of your bed. Let's start from the basic setup of a glass bed:
The heater element is usually mounted to a metal carrier, which is both spreading the thermal energy over the bed, but also is the structural element that is leveled against the carriage. Atop that comes the glass print surface.
Now, once the heater element is turned on, the aluminium starts to expand and evens the distribution to the glass. As the glass has a much lower thermal expansion coefficient, it doesn't expand as fast. Because of this, the glass surface should **never** be glued to the bed or heater but held in position to the metal bed with a clip. This way the thermal and mechanical stress on the glass sheet is mitigated: The metal bed evens the heat transfer and the clip can move its position on the glass.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I would be careful before trying another glass just hoping it will go better, since you haven't found the issue.
I have a PCB heated bed in direct contact (PCB copper traces on top) a 2 mm glass (plain float glass, not hardened and not borosilicate). It never broke and I've been using it intensely for the last few months. My heated bed is very flat (even if it bends with the heat) and also clean: no residues which can push against the glass. Clean yours properly!
Also, how powerful is your heated bed? mine is about 120 W for 12x12 cm. If yours is too powerful, maybe you could slow down the heating by reducing the maximum duty cycle (you need maybe to recompile Marlin) or by increasing the temperature 10 °C at time.
I also see that you use mirrors, maybe recovered from other applications. I bought the glass new, which is very cheap but it is also guaranteed defect free. Maybe yours had issues already.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: As manufactuer and 3D printing's fans, I think it's better to use custom tempered glass. It will be nice and flat and stiff. It's also easy to clean and holds up well. You can print on the bare glass with many materials or use various preparations like PVA (glue stick or white glue diluted with water are popular), hairspray, or others.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/05/23 | 1,286 | 4,487 | <issue_start>username_0: As stated above, I am trying to solve a problem I've had for a long time. Unfortunately, this has recently intensified to the point where it causes layer splitting/detaching from each other. I have tried various ways to fix this and, while decreasing the temperature and extrusion multiplier improved the situation, the problem is still present.
My settings:
- Nozzle 235 °C Bed 100 °C
- Cooling 25 %
- Extrusion multiplier 0.89
- Speed 150 mm/s for everything, 50 mm/s for small perimiters
- Acceleration 1000 mm/s2, (default)
- Layer height 0.15-0.3mm
- Line width - 0.6mm for everything, but 0.45 for first layer and 0.42 for top solid infill
Is there a different solution than lowering print speed or buying an E3D silicon sock? I have lost my spare ones and the current one wore down. Obviously, I can simply pause the print when I see plastic bulding up on the nozzle, but I am sure that there is a more efficient solution.
UPDATE: I found that the hotend was very dirty and full of burnt/molten plastic. I am almost sure that the hotend is leaking somewhere between the heat block and the heat break. This didn't happen before I replaced the nozzle. How can I fix this? Do I have to replace the heat break or some other part?<issue_comment>username_1: I saw PETG printed at 100 mm/s, but 150! That's a lot.
One solution to avoid blobs may be to limit the maximum speed to a value you can actually achieve with reliable results.
Simple test to find your machine limits (each combination filament brand + nozzle + temperature has a different value): extrude filament in the air at increasing speeds, see how the flow changes, and when you see more than 5% decrease, that's it.
1. M83
2. mark the filament as if you were calibrating the E steps
3. calculate filament speed: speed = volum/s / filament surface \* 60 = mm^3/s \* 25 (this factor is valid for 1.75 mm filament)
4. set extrusion speed for 2 mm^3/s: G1 F50
5. extrude 50 mm: G1 E50
6. measure actual length extruded
7. repeat 2.-6. but increase the speed by 2 mm^3/s each time: 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, ...
8. at a certain speed you will see that the actual filament length starts to decrease. When you see that the underextrusion reaches 5-10% (depending how much underextrusion you accept), write down that volumetric speed (mm^3/s) somewhere, it's your limit for THAT filament + THAT nozzle + THAT temperature
9. Either a) calculate the max print speed = volumetric speed / layer height / line width or b) set the maximum volumetric flow rate in the slicing software so that the speed will be automatically capped taking into account layer height and line width. [Prusaslicer](https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/max-volumetric-speed_127176/) allows to set that in the "Print" or in "Filament" settings, I recommend it for "Filament" settings, since it's a filament-dependent parameter.
Example data from [CNC Kitchen](https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/flow-rate-benchmarking-of-a-hotend):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXRYV.png)
You can increase the max print speed, at the price of a little loss of quality around edges, if you calibrate the E steps at a speed corresponding to 2-3% underextrusion (alternative: to the speed of outer perimeters).
This way you know that when you print slower than that (uncommon... typically only sharp corners and small perimeters) you'll get up to 2-3% overextrusion, and you extend by 2-3% the maximum print speed, since your max speed is the one where you get 5-10% underextrusion compared to your E steps calibration speed.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Even not extruding anything but just performing travel moves over PETG at 100 mm/s or higher will *tear it up and drag material all over the place*. The result is blobs stuck to the nozzle, possibly even stringing, and choppy lines that the next layer will not properly adhere to. PETG simply cannot be printed at these kind of speeds regardless of how fast your hotend can melt it.
Turn **all** speeds, print and travel, down to 40-50 mm/s, then experiment to see if you can increase them at all.
Note that if your acceleration is only 1000 mm/s², you're basically never going to reach the desired 150 mm/s anyway, so this probably won't be as much of a slowdown as you expect. Jack the acceleration up as high as your machine can handle and it might still print as fast or faster, but without the blobs.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/24 | 1,207 | 4,616 | <issue_start>username_0: First of all, I'm still new to this 3D printing and I've bought myself a second hand Ender 3 with some mods done to it.
I've successfully printed with PLA in different colors but after a good first layer the print seems like it is skipping lines.
I've already tried to:
* Change the nozzle
* Set the bed level (like a million times)
* Download calibration files (e.g calibration squares)
I have used Cura with the Ender 3 Pro profile:
* I print in PLA at 200 °C
* A print bed temperature of 60°C
* Cooling fan at 100%
* Layer height of 0.2 mm
* Line width is 0.4 mm from a 0.4 mm nozzle
* Printing Speed is set to 50 mm/s for walls and 25mm/s for infill
* Retraction is 6.5 mm/off at 25mm/s
I really don't know how to fix it the bad quality.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJMBw.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Many questions on 3D Printing SE are answered, at least by me, not with a "this is the problem", but instead, this is how I would analyze it.
Looking at the picture you supplied, there is something strangely periodic about the under-extrusion in the top visible flat layer.
I don't think it is an X or Y axis problem. It is too low-frequency to be an extruder drive problem, such as a slippery drive hobbed gear. It seems too high frequency to be a filament feed problem, unless you are very close to the end of a spool with a small inner diameter. This is less likely because you have printed many things, and I would infer that you have seen this with full spools and empty ones.
The Ender 3 looks like a Bowden-fed printer. You are printing PLA, which should work well with Bowden.
Temperature variation could also cause this problem. If the nozzle were cooling and heating in an unstable control cycle, where the nozzle is cooler you would find under extrusion and even non-extrusion. This looks compatible with the results.
What could cause thermal problems?
* Not delivering energy to the heater, perhaps because of a bad
connection, or perhaps because of an intermittent heater cartridge
* Not sensing the temperature correctly, perhaps because of a shorting thermister
* Thermal control look is out of tune, which I consider unlikely since you haven't messed with it, and in my experience that is pretty forgiving
* Not conducting heat from the heater to the nozzle, which is unlikely
If you have an infrared thermometer, put a piece of masking tape on the heater (to get a consistent IR emissivity) and monitor the temperature. Is it cooler when under extruding? It might only be a few degrees different, but that could be enough if you are right on the transition temperature.
If the temperature is stable, you might try printing 10 degrees hotter, just to see. Some variation is normal, and you might be on the edge.
It is possible you have a filament that widely varies in diameter, but for that strong an effect, you would have noticed that the filament was thinner in some places than others.
My best suggestion is to look at temperature.
Further Reflection
------------------
It is also possible that you have something dragging on the filament spool. I don't like it as a solution, but it is consistent with printing a lot (at the beginning of spools) and then encountering this problem. A problem feeding, although I discounted it in my earlier answer, could produce a periodic under-extrusion if the drag on the spool changes. If the problem was one-time, then it may have been bad winding in the spool so that once per revolution it requires some extra tug to unwind the filament. That tug would reduce the torque available to push the filament through the working side of the printer. There might be extruder jumps (pops, clicks, etc.) coming from the extruder as it skipped steps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd suggest running through basic maintenance. Check
* Is the nozzle clean/unblocked? If not clean it out
* Is the nozzle worn? If so, replace it
* Is the bowden tube okay in the hot end ? If not, replace, or at least shorten it.
* Are your e-steps calibrated correctly?
...etc
Also consider whatever mods were made, and whether they help or not. There's a chance something there was sub-optimal, which is why it was sold off by the previous owner.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had this exact issue - PLA wasn't sticking to itself. It was intermittently being dragged around by the nozzle, and prints literally fell apart when removing them.
The problem: bad filament. I bought a new roll and the printer worked fine afterward.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/05/26 | 641 | 2,334 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to be able to control my FLSUN QQ over Wi-Fi and don't have OctoPrint or a Raspberry Pi to run it on.<issue_comment>username_1: Assuming you use Ultimaker Cura to slice, there is a MKS plugin that allows connecting to the MKS WiFi module that comes with the QQ. Just follow these steps:
**Install the MKS WiFi Plugin**
1. Open Cura
2. Click "Marketplace" in top right
3. Select "Plugins"
4. Scroll down to find the "MKS WiFi Plugin"
5. Click on the plugin.
6. Click "Install"
7. Restart Cura (quit and reopen)
**Configure WiFi**
1. Turn on your QQ
2. Tap Settings
3. Tap WiFi
4. Enable WiFi
5. Note the IP address and network name
6. Connect your computer to the printers network
7. Open your browser
8. type the IP address of your printer into the address bar
9. hit enter
10. Scroll down to "WIFI Configuration"
11. Select STA
12. Enter your home network SSID into the field labeled "WIFI"
13. Enter the password into the field labeled "KEY"
14. Click configure and reboot
**Setup your printer in Cura**
1. Open Cura
2. Open settings > Printer > Manage Printers...
3. Click "MKS Wifi"
4. Click "Add"
5. Enter the new IP address of your printer (can be found by opening WiFi settings on the printer)
6. Click Ok
7, Click connect.
Now you should be connected to your printer. After slicing you should have the option to "Print over FLSUN..." In the Monitor interface you should have some other options such as sending commands to the printer, and printing any files already on the SD card, as well as uploading gcode files to the SD card.
Happy Printing
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As the auto-install from the Marketplace described in [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13753) wasn't working , I did have to manually install the MKS WiFi plugin on my Mac (M1 MBPro). To do this I just:
1. Downloaded the GitHub files (from the plugin webpage, linked in the Marketplace)
2. Right-clicked the Cura icon in the Applications folder, to show
package contents
3. I then went into the macOS folder and followed the plugin link
4. Copy the downloaded GitHub files
5. Restart Cura
I then just followed the printer setup advice in Cura from [this answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/13753).
No more messing around with SD cards :)
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/05/28 | 834 | 3,398 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there any DRM or license management solution for 3D printing? I'm looking for something, that would help me limit the number of prints someone can make from my projects. Basically, I would like to sell the "right to make no more than X copies" of my design. I don't expect it to be bullet-proof (like Widevine L1 for video), but it should at least help me with license management.<issue_comment>username_1: Good luck with that.
Issues you will face:
* using a G-code editor (or built-in printer software) to create multiple copies of the object in a single print session
* user writing the printer file to an SD card, then block-copying the SD card
* defining a "print". Specifically:
* is #2 another functional copy of the object, or did #1 fail? Failed prints happen a lot.
* is #3 another functional copy of the object, or was #2 damaged in post-processing? Like removing supports or left it in the acetone 5 seconds too long and it's now a blob.
* is #4 another functional copy of the object, or was #3 tossed because the guy running the printer grabbed the wrong spool and made a perfectly good print in the perfectly wrong material/colour.
* is #5 another functional copy of the object, or was #4 damaged in shipping?
The whole process is one-way. There just isn't a path for anything other than the end user to know what they pulled off the print bed. Unless you make the entire process from design software to printer you won't change that. And good luck selling it, 'cause the user base is rather strongly opposed to that kind of thing. For example, ANY kind of DRM in the product, from printer software to filament, is an immediate no-buy for me. I don't care if you are paying me to take it, I will find an alternative without that particular annoyance. And no, I don't use Microsoft or Adobe products either.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Generally: No
-------------
Let's face the obvious problems of the files exchanged and the files used for printing, and then look into why it is a bad idea in the first place.
G-code
------
G-code is in its design a .txt file that contains specific orders for a machine. There is a g-code command that forces the printer to delete the file ([`M30`](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M030.html)) but that needs the exact file path - and just does nothing if the path is incorrect. One could make a slicer profile, that after printing, deletes the file from the SD-card, but doing so as a user is only useful for one-off jobs and it can be prevented by the user by simply shutting down the printer before the line is triggered.
Because .gcode is essentially a .txt without any special features but a custom ending, it can't provide DRM beyond containing a self-delete-after-completion.
STL & OBJ
---------
STL and OBJ are the most relevant exchange files. They are open source and not intended to contain any DRM.
Other formats?
--------------
Even with a different format, you would need both a **proprietary 3D format** that can only be read by your DRM-enabled slicer as well as a **proprietary printer file type** that both contain DRM. However, using a proprietary printer command type means you lock down your file to be only available to your printer family, which in turn makes this printer family **less** desirable, as it can't work with the standard g-code format.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/05/29 | 882 | 3,276 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently I have started using a fairly large LCD resin printer. (Yidimu Falcon Pro)
It has a fairly large 260x160mm perforated and coated steel build plate and a decent dual rail Z axis with a ballscrew. It has a 10" LCD. It prints ChiTuBox files from a USB stick.
I have been having a mostly successful print, at good quality, but the bed adhesion keeps haunting me. The best print on this machine had parts curling up from the build plate, however most of the print succeeded.
* Two times I have had a very well adhering raft, however delamination occured directly after the raft.
* Usually the left side lifts from the bed while the model stays on the build plate.
I have tried:
Changing resin (tried Druckwerk Pro D Black and Anycubic Black)
* Decreasing lift speed
* Increasing lift distance
* Increasing bottom layer exposure time (from 60 to 180, as suggested by Druckwerck supplier)
* Increasing bottom layer count to 9
* Using a large raft
* Using a very large raft
* Using a very small raft
* Leveling build plate without vat in place, using paper
* Leveling build plate while keeping vat in place
What would be a good next troubleshooting step?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpZWt.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRWtS.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYl8.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: looks like you have done a lot of work to try to get it working.
considering you are having issues on one side of the build plate my thought is that it is a levelling issue or an issue with the plate itself. Try levelling it using the video ["Getting Started: Leveling the Build Plate"](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4G6ExEtk70) it's for a different printer but pay attention to the part where he goes over making sure the left and right sides are level and how to check that. I had a problem like yours, and the issue was that as I tightened the screw to keep the build plate in the levelled position I ended up causing it to move. I made the same mistake a few times before realizing that I was messing it up the same way every time because I'm right-handed. after realizing that it was easier to fix.
If the issue is the build plate it's self it may be a matter of it not being flat (unlikely), Or not providing a good bonding surface. if the latter I suggest you do some research and decide for yourself as there are a lot of dividing views on how to fix that issue.
It also looks like you are having issues with the print after the bottom layers. It could be caused but the separation issue but it could be that you just need to increase your exposure time for your non-bottom layers
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had an issue with my Vat Bolts, one being cracked and leveling at a greater tension than the other. With the compressible feet of my Vat this caused a problem in the FEP. This was enough to cause failure on one side more than the other. Cause was verified by switching the left and right knobs, thus shifting the failures to the opposite side of the print.
Just a thought.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/01 | 1,086 | 3,836 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm printing a object with a pretty sizable overhang. And the results, after support removal, are pretty ugly.
Here is the print before support removal.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOWiG.jpg)
And here is the final product, sigh.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z19Oe.jpg)
Finally here are my slic3r settings:
* Generate Support Material: [✔]
* Overhang threshold: 60°
* Max Layer Count for Supports: 0 layers
* Enforce Support for the First: 0 layers
* Raft layers: 0 layers
Options for support material and raft
* Contact Z distance: 0.2 mm (detachable)
* Pattern: pillars
* Pattern spacing: 2.5 mm
* Pattern angle: 0°
* Interface Layers: 3 layers
* Interface pattern spacing: 2 mm
* Support on Build Plate Only: [✔]
* Don't support bridges: [ ]
The material I'm using is ABS, 230 °C temperature setting. Layers, Adaptive Slicing, Adaptive quality: 75 %, Match horizontal surfaces. Vertical shells, 3 perimeters minimum. Horizontal shells, solid layers: top: 3, bottom 3.
Is there a way to improve this?
Note: for anybody interested... these are small disposable spatulas used to place bondo mix onto a flat surface at the bottom of a restricted space, to fill small holes in wood. Its too tight in there to use a normal putty knife.
---
**Some more print settings**
Included here are the speed settings from Slic3r:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NXO1.png)
---
**G-code analysis**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDYAz.png)
I'm wondering why there is such a large gap between the gold colored E shaped interface to the blue spatula handle? And that makes me wonder, what support material and raft settings should I be using? Why is that gap so big? (And I have to go back into SolidWorks and check, but I'm nearly certain that handle is 2 mm wide. That gap to the support is really big.)<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not terribly familiar with slic3r, but it looks like you have a setting (possibly a default one) to slow down on printing overhangs. This was a popular "feature" in slicing software (Cura has it I know) but it's **exactly the opposite** of what you should be doing. When slowing down to print an overhang, the pressure in the nozzle forces the material to keep coming out at the same rate it was coming out until it subsides, and you end up with a big hanging glob of ooze like in your photo.
If your printer firmware has linear-advance/pressure-advance functionality, this can mostly be eliminated. But if not (most stock firmware), you need to maintain full speed on overhangs, and might even need to turn up your acceleration limits so that you don't get a significant slowdown just by decelerating to go around the corner.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Judging from the print quality of support material (very "fat") and of top surfaces (which look with ripples and a lot of material), you have at least 3% overxtrusion, which will result also in stronger connection between support and print, and more difficult removal, lower quality parts.
I would reduce extrusion by 3%, to start, and see if it goes better. In your case you can tolerate underextrusion, since the part is likely not stressed significantly, so in doubt reduce it even more.
You can also print [this test part](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3695183) to check optimal extrusion.
Also, remember that extrusion is (almost always) dependent on speed: if you get perfect extrusion at 60 mm/s, infill at 80 mm/s will be slightly underextruded and outer perimeters (30 mm/s) will be overextruded. In general, set everything to the same speed.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/06/06 | 1,953 | 6,194 | <issue_start>username_0: I have had issues with printing on my i3 MK3, especially when it came to the first layer. In March 2020, I have installed the Prusa Mesh Leveling plugin for Octoprint. With that plugin and a Nylock nut modification, I was able to reduce the bed variance from 0.6 mm down to 0.014 mm and prints were great. That took about 25 rounds of calibration and I didn't have any issues with the graphics not updating.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fo7Ag.png)
Shortly after that, my filament sensor stopped working and I ordered a replacement, which I installed yesterday. But today, my prints are bad again, especially the first layer. So I thought I would simply run through the calibration and mesh bed leveling again.
First, I turned the screws in the wrong direction, so the result became worse and I needed several attempts until the results went into the correct direction. I'm currently at ~1.0 mm bed variance, which is very bad and I need to continue leveling the bed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR588.png)
Now, the graphics does not update any longer. It always shows the same picture.
I also noticed some different behavior of the mesh bed levelling procedure. Usually, after running the mesh bed levelling, the printer needs some time (~5 secs) before it will react to other commands like a move on the Z axis. I used the following technique to find out when to reload the graphics:
* run mesh bed levelling
* tell the printer to move up 10 mm on the Z axis
* as soon as the print head moves up, it was possible to reload the graphics
Now, the print head moves up immediately after the mesh bed levelling, without the ~5 secs delay and the graphics does not update.
I have already tried:
* click the "reload heat map" button
* run mesh bed leveling again
* restarting Octoprint
* resetting the printer using the X button
* looking for disk space via SSH
.
```
pi@octopi:~ $ df -h
Filesystem Size Used Avail Use% Mounted on
/dev/root 7.3G 1.9G 5.1G 27% /
devtmpfs 182M 0 182M 0% /dev
tmpfs 186M 0 186M 0% /dev/shm
tmpfs 186M 2.7M 183M 2% /run
tmpfs 5.0M 4.0K 5.0M 1% /run/lock
tmpfs 186M 0 186M 0% /sys/fs/cgroup
/dev/mmcblk0p1 42M 21M 21M 51% /boot
tmpfs 38M 0 38M 0% /run/user/1000
```
In the log file (`octoprint.log`) with output level set to `DEBUG`, I could see an entry:
```
2020-06-06 12:19:52,261 - octoprint.plugins.PrusaMeshMap - INFO - Generating heatmap
2020-06-06 12:19:52,288 - py.warnings - WARNING -
/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/pyplot.py:522:
RuntimeWarning: More than 20 figures have been opened.
Figures created through the pyplot interface (`matplotlib.pyplot.figure`) are
retained until explicitly closed and may consume too much memory.
(To control this warning, see the rcParam `figure.max_open_warning`).
max_open_warning, RuntimeWarning)
```
As you can see, this was at 12:19. The last graphics I saw is from 12:37.
The logs also contain a message on 12:40:
```
2020-06-06 12:40:39,262 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Error while processing hook PrusaMeshMap:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2849, in _readline
ret = hook(self, ret)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py", line 90, in mesh_level_check
self.mesh_level_generate()
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py", line 236, in mesh_level_generate
fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches="tight")
[...]
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/image.py", line 512, in _make_image
output = self.to_rgba(output, bytes=True, norm=False)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/cm.py", line 259, in to_rgba
xx = (xx * 255).astype(np.uint8)
MemoryError
```
On 12:46 I rebooted the system
```
2020-06-06 12:46:08,761 - octoprint.server.api.system - INFO - Performing command for core:reboot: sudo shutdown -r now
```
but of course that graphics is still missing and the last available graphics is the one from 12:37. So, after the reboot one needs to run the mesh bed leveling again.
Still, no luck...
OctoPrint version is 1.4.0, OctoPi version 0.15.0PE, Prusameshmap Plugin: 0.3.0. As far as I can tell, that's the latest version available.
What can I do to make mesh bed leveling work again?<issue_comment>username_1: You have found a bug in the OctoPrint plugin. As you noticed, not more than 20 graphs can be created/open at a time. This implies that the developer has not implemented pyplot correctly, this is a common mistake that I have ran into myself once or twice. You should notify the developer.
The problem is that the old graph is not destroyed or not properly updated (I think it is intended to update the graph). The code passes the create plot multiple times and after 20 graphs it will drop the error message.
If you reset the Pi or reload the Octoprint server you are probably good to go for another 20 graphs.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have formatted the SD card and installed Octoprint from scratch. That's nasty, because I lost all the models I uploaded.
It seems to be a bug in [\_\_init\_\_.py](https://github.com/PrusaOwners/OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap/blob/master/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py) of OctoPrint-PrusaMeshMap (archived Github repository).
That code saves the heatmap in this line:
```
fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches="tight")
```
It uses Pyplot
```
import matplotlib.pyplot as plt
```
and thus the code should probably use (untested!)
```
plt.close(fig)
del fig
```
to free the resources.
Unfortunately it's not possible to file this as an issue because the Github repository is in archived mode and thus readonly.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2020/06/07 | 1,249 | 4,945 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently heard that the 3D printing lab at my college can do fused-deposition with ABS and PLA, but I would like to use TPU, for greater flexibility.
Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.<issue_comment>username_1: Most printers can print most filaments. However, some more exotic filaments are not suitable for all printers:
* To print a flexible filament such as TPU, the filament path from the extruder needs to be well-constrained. A bowden extruder is generally less good at handling flexible filaments than a direct extruder. Some direct extruders without a well-constrained filament path may also be unsuitable.
* A printer without a heated bed won't be able to print filaments that tend to warp such as ABS.
* A printer without a (heated) enclosure won't be able to print filaments that tend to warp *a lot* such as polycarbonate
* A printer with a PTFE-lined hotend won't be able to print filaments that require higher temperatures. PETG is at the upper end of what can be (safely) printed with a PTFE-lined hotend, while filaments such as polycarbonate require temperatures well outside the usable range.
* A printer with a standard brass nozzle won't be able to print (not long, anyways) abrasive filaments such as glow-in-the-dark.
It is likely the printer at your lab will be able to handle TPU just fine. If it is a bowden printer then you might have some difficulty printing but it might still work depending on exactly how soft the filament is and how well-constrained the filament path.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Regarding your particular question about TPU, any machine that can print PLA should be able to print TPU. Bed temperature is even less of an issue, and the needed nozzle temperature is roughly the same. The only potential difficulty is that, if the entire path from the extruder gear to the hotend isn't tightly confined, the soft filament can kink rather than advancing properly. However, this isn't a show-stopper - it can almost always be solved with printable upgrades to constrain the path.
If your printer has a bowden extruder, you have to go pretty slow with TPU because there's so much room for the filament to compress between the extruder gear and the nozzle, making the response to extruder advancement and retraction lagged. But this can largely be solved by upgrading the printer's firmware to one with "linear advance" or "pressure advance" feature that compensates. I can print TPU very well at 30 mm/s on my Ender 3 with firmware upgraded to Marlin 2.0, with a whopping 5.0 as the linear advance spring constant.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: >
> Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same.
>
>
>
The question is not what the machine is *built for* but *how* it is built. Let's break stuff down some into why some filaments work better than others and the challenges with them.
Temperature range
-----------------
The first obstacle is the temperature range of the printer. For example, if your printer's Extruder can't get over 220 °C, you can't print ABS. You need to make sure your printer can match your intended filament's temperature range.
TPU usually prints around between the same temperatures for PLA and ABS, so it should work from that range.
Heated Bed
----------
Most Filaments work better with a heated bed, but some are almost impossible to be printed without. For TPU, a heated bed should be used but is not absolutely mandatory.
Heated Chamber
--------------
Some filaments can't be printed without a heated chamber, others like ABS highly benefit from it. TPU is ambivalent on this as far as I know.
Extruder Setup
--------------
There's basically 3 extruder setups. Pellet extruders are super rare, so we don't concern about them. The other two are Direct Drive and Bowden. In a Direct Drive, the extruder motor is right over the hotend, and pushes the filament directly into it. In a Bowden setup, the hotend and the extruder motor are connected via a Bowden tube. Both have benefits and drawbacks:
A Bowden makes for a lighter carriage, leading to faster printing speeds. A Direct Drive has much less trouble with elastic filaments and can do much better with retraction.
TPU is one of the filaments that works much better with Direct Drive.
Other considerations
--------------------
Some Print services do print in machines set up for one filament type and that only, because it prevents cross-contamination of the nozzles, especially when a high-temperature print material remains in it when a low-temperature print comes next. Having for example a little bit of ABS left in a printer that runs PLA next can lead to very very extreme clogging.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2020/06/11 | 120 | 403 | <issue_start>username_0: If I have an issue with my FLSUN printer how can I contact customer support?<issue_comment>username_1: I have had good luck contacting them via AliExpress <https://flsun.aliexpress.com/store/2383013> even though I bought my printer on Amazon.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: They have a webpage by now [www.flsun3d.com](http://www.flsun3d.com)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2020/06/11 | 429 | 1,678 | <issue_start>username_0: I broke one of the blades of the fan and that's making the x-box vibrate. Other than that it works fine and I can still print at a very low flow rate and a lot of noise. Will replacing the blades, not the whole fan work?
Found this and how to replace on thingyverse:
<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186979><issue_comment>username_1: It will work, but likely with reduced performances: designing blades is not an easy task and the ones you can print will not be as good as the ones designed for that specific fan.
Overall, do it for fun before you replace the fan anyway.
IF your fan has symmetrical blades (unlikely), another option is to break the opposite blade to balance the fan.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It's a standard part. You can find fitting replacement fans easily by searching for the dimensions and the voltage. It's better to use a molded part as it is smoother and lighter than any FDM printed one.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you want to **play** then print new blades; if you want to **print** then swap the fan - but pay attention to: Voltage, current draw, rpm, fan thickness, etc.
Note: most fans are built to be disposable/replaceable. They are never built to be repaired, and as yet, nobody has succeeded in replicating the efficiency/balance/effectiveness of commercially available blades via 3D printing - and many in the Drone world have tried and died!
If you decide to replace, ideally you want EXACTLY the same fan as a replacement - even if it costs more than something similar. When you get seasoned, you can upgrade and improve, but until then, similar is not good enough...
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/11 | 1,131 | 3,656 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm newbie at this stackexchange and I have a "FlashForge Finder"; lately there are many problems with the horizontal surfaces quality (Bottom and Top at the same time).
As some issue guides suggests, I changed: number of solid layers, % of filling and extrusion multiplier; I use "Flashprint", so some concepts must be translated from Cura in the options menu.
P.S: All filaments are PLA.
Without any change:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kN9K4.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWw31.jpg)
After all changes (the "best")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbE13.jpg)
My settings for last black disk:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2nkp.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GzNN.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qw0yc.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/psACU.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7UOy.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcdnR.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbN1e.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pSYX.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyYqp.png)<issue_comment>username_1: This could be caused by under extrusion, often caused by the bed being too close to the hot end / extruder nozzle. You could try to relevel the bed, or change the screws so that the bed moves down slightly. Often when levelling, you want to feel slight resistance when sliding a piece of paper between the bed an the nozzle. You should do this for all 4 corners. Be careful though, you dont want the bed too far away from the nozzle, or problems maybe arise with the print not sticking to the bed.
Hope this helps, Luke.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Finally, I solved all faillures today.
-When the bed is too close from the hotend:
I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times and then You can do it shorter.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg)
-The another half part of bad quality [low maintenance of the hotend]:
As a good newbie, I didn't know the periods of maintenance and the hotend had much plastic waste the PTFE tube welded and burned at internal, so the only option was to replace it for another same or to upgrade to "All Metal"; I chosen to upgrade with the replacement and I'll more maintenance to this zone.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWcPn.jpg)
First attempt of trial piece:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbPfY.jpg)
...PANIC!
But then and FINALLY!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8ri1.jpg)
Almost all correct, I can continue with my printings.
THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL, for your apportations and patience.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2020/06/12 | 650 | 2,394 | <issue_start>username_0: I find that white filaments are quite translucent and printing 5 layers of white filament onto 2 layers of black filament (at 0.2 mm layers, the white layers being 100% infilled and the underlying black layer covering about 85% of the whole area) produces a slightly grey color on the top.
Is that a limitation of the white colour (or the actual material used)?
Are there materials, that address this issue to some extent?
Adjusting layer thickness while keeping the overall height won't change things, right?<issue_comment>username_1: This could be caused by under extrusion, often caused by the bed being too close to the hot end / extruder nozzle. You could try to relevel the bed, or change the screws so that the bed moves down slightly. Often when levelling, you want to feel slight resistance when sliding a piece of paper between the bed an the nozzle. You should do this for all 4 corners. Be careful though, you dont want the bed too far away from the nozzle, or problems maybe arise with the print not sticking to the bed.
Hope this helps, Luke.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Finally, I solved all faillures today.
-When the bed is too close from the hotend:
I cheat the machine with a cutter patterns board over the bed at the first extruder calibration; the distance increases several times and then You can do it shorter.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YiAKm.jpg)
-The another half part of bad quality [low maintenance of the hotend]:
As a good newbie, I didn't know the periods of maintenance and the hotend had much plastic waste the PTFE tube welded and burned at internal, so the only option was to replace it for another same or to upgrade to "All Metal"; I chosen to upgrade with the replacement and I'll more maintenance to this zone.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWcPn.jpg)
First attempt of trial piece:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbPfY.jpg)
...PANIC!
But then and FINALLY!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g8ri1.jpg)
Almost all correct, I can continue with my printings.
THANKS SO MUCH TO ALL, for your apportations and patience.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2020/06/14 | 895 | 3,198 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm in the middle of building a D-Bot printer, and have run into a bit of an issue when it comes to the heat bed wires. The heated bed is an aluminum plate with a silicon heater attached to it, and the heater wires are not long enough to make it through the drag chain when the Z-axis is fully extended.
The silicon pad is 120 V AC / 750 W and will be turned on/off by a Fotek SSR. The heater wires are cloth-covered and are probably 22-24 AWG. (Gauge is not labelled)
I suspect I'll need to extend the wires by putting in some sort of coupler at the top of the drag chain, but I'm not certain if there are specific requirements for the wires for an AC powered heat bed.
To this end, I was wondering:
* Is there a specific wire gauge that I should use for the heater wires, and should it have a specific cladding?
* What type of connector would be best for connecting the wires together securely in this case?
Thanks in advance!<issue_comment>username_1: 750 W at 120 V is 6.3 A. 22-24 AWG is on the thin side for this. I would recommend 18 AWG or thicker. You don't need a specific style of insulation for this (other than something that is rated for the voltage and temperature the wire will need to withstand, but most commonly found wire should be good).
A good way of connecting the wires would be to solder them. If you do not want to solder, there are many products on the market for connecting wires. A butt connector that you crimp could be a good option, or you could use a WAGO clamp. Whatever option you end up using, be sure to provide adequate strain relief as the connection point (be it soldered or with a connector) is more likely to fail from fatigue.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: 750 W at 120 V is around 6.3 A.
You can use a [voltage drop calculator](https://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html) to find out how much power is lost in the wires, and therefore their temperature increase.
I did it for you. With 10 feet (2x5 feet) 20AWG wire and 6 A current, 7 W are dissipated on the wires.
It's 0.7 W/foot which is ok for silicone wires, also because the bed doesn't operate at 100% except for the initial heating up (and then the heat goes to the air around, which is fine anyway).
If you use [another website](https://www.is-rayfast.com/news/wire-cable/temperature-rise-by-current/), you can see that 20 AWG with 6 A current produces, in free air, around 10 degrees temperature increase. Silicone insulation will worsen that, but silicone holds well over 100 °C...
Use thicker wires if you can, or go on if you cannot.
The most important thing is to very effectively join the two, so that no extra resistance is introduced. I would place them next to each other and physically solder them. Then heat shrink tube around the joint.
See for info what not to use for the joining
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: To add to the answers here, use a finely stranded wire for the bed. It does better with being constantly flexed. Finely stranded wire is hard to source, except it is usually what is used for wall warts/AC adapters. They come in the heavier gauge you want, just check the writing on the wire.
Upvotes: 0 |
2020/06/14 | 609 | 2,009 | <issue_start>username_0: I installed a BLTouch bed leveling probe on my printer which uses Marlin 2.0.5.3.
Now the printer seems to be of two minds when it comes to finding the origin. Homing XY moves to the lower left as it always has, but homing Z moves not only to Z=0, but also to the center of the build plate. The printer knows this is (100,100,0) and is not mistakenly thinking it is (0,0,0).
This causes some issues such as now the nozzle wipe at the beginning of a print happens right in the center of where the print is supposed to be.
Is this expected behavior?<issue_comment>username_1: This is a consequence of enabling `Z_SAFE_HOMING`:
>
> Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe (or nozzle) is outside bed area by moving to a defined XY point (by default, the middle of the bed) before Z Homing when homing all axes with `G28`. As a side-effect, X and Y homing are required before Z homing. If stepper drivers time out, X and Y homing will be required again.
>
>
> Enable this option if a probe (not an endstop) is being used for Z homing. Z Safe Homing isn’t needed if a Z endstop is used for homing, but it may also be enabled just to have XY always move to some custom position after homing.
>
>
>
My default Cura start G-code contained this sequence:
```
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
```
I changed this to
```
G28 ;safe homing
G90 ;absolute positioning
G0 X0 Y0 ; move to bottom-left corner for nozzle wipe
```
However any oozing will still happen at the center of the build plate, which is a problem.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem, solved it by inserting
```
// Move X and Y to 0 after homing
process_subcommands_now_P("G1 X0 Y0 F5000");
```
at the end of `G28.cpp`, just before `ui.refresh();`
This moves the print head to X0, Y0 and leaves Z untouched after the homing procedure. This way any oozing that might happen while the extruder heats up will be outside of the bed.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/06/17 | 1,861 | 6,292 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to 3D print a small thin tub/mold for an epoxy resin. I have tubings inserted into holes, and I need to fix these tubings securely with epoxy (see picture below). The space is very limited, and the whole assembly must have a smallest possible footprint, so I have to confine the epoxy from spreading to the sides - that's why I need a tub. The tub itself must have as thin walls as possibly for the same reason.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M2OH.png)
**The wall thickness is constant, so theoretically the nozzle could just make one single loop to print a layer, and then move to the next one. Kinda a spiral motion**. It seems to be so simple! How do I get the slicer (I use Ultimaker 2 with 0.4 mm nozzle, CoPA material, and slice in Cura 4.6.1) to produce single outline walls?
I tried so many things, but I couldn't get this.
With the default settings for 0.2 mm layer a 0.4 mm wall (or thinner) will not be printed at all (left - 0.35 mm wall, middle - 0.4 mm, right - 0.45 mm):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/accPb.png)
Occasionally even the 0.45 mm-thick wall gets excluded from the print, which is really bizarre:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/adSYJ.png)
If I make the wall thicker, then the slicer tries to pack two discontinued lines next to each other, which is even worse. Cura has an option 'print thin walls', but this results in jerky, discontinued tracks.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbDBJ.png)
At the moment I print 0.45 mm walls with the 'print thin walls' option turned on, this is the closest to what I need that I could find so far.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hodsm.png)
This may look fine in Cura, but the result is pretty ugly due to the additional nozzle movements... I really don't understand why the printer has to do them. It prints the outline, then jumps to the 'corner' and deposits a blob there. I can carefully remove these blobs with a scalpel, but come on, this is a disposable part and I need a ton of these!!!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSbBG.png)
If that helps, here is a [link to a sample STL file with 450 μm walls](https://trello-attachments.s3.amazonaws.com/5b6b2534b398ed67842b5cf7/5edeb664103bb57c7dd030fc/b6a7558c09ae986bb5e5e4842f01ab07/short_450um.stl).<issue_comment>username_1: Cura is exceptionally bad at printing details comparable in size to the configured line width. Lower your wall line width to something like half the wall thickness (i.e. 0.225 mm) and see if that works. With a standard 0.4 mm nozzle I've had success printing tiny details with 0.2 mm line width or smaller. For example:
And here's your model printed at 0.225 mm line width:
I also had to slow down the print speed considerably to get first layer adhesion with such thin lines. I did 40% via the printer UI, relative to 30 mm/s base rate, so effectively 12 mm/s. After first layer increasing speed was no problem.
**Important:** You also need to set the "Outer Wall Inset" (`wall_0_inset`) setting to 0. This is a broken Cura feature that's supposed to compensate for wall line widths less than the nozzle width, but the math is incorrect and not actually needed, and if it's left at the default it will reproduce exactly the same "missing wall" issue you got with full wall line width.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: After a lot of experimenting and trying several different things I finally discovered the **'vase mode'**. In this mode the 3D printer makes a hollow object with a single-layer outer shell.
The corresponding setting is called **'spiralize outer contour'** in Cura 4.6.1. In this mode the printer does not make distinct layers and prints the whole shell in one continuous motion ([video](https://photos.app.goo.gl/oxoW32fq4dEGyx7Y7)), exactly as I need it. The print is done faster, and the quality is dramatically better!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aihpq.jpg)
The downside is that only one model can be built in this mode. If you place several models on the build plate, they will get connected by a wall. However, there is a workaround in Cura: under 'Special modes' set 'Print sequence' to 'One at a time'. Ultimaker will print several model one after another provided they are not tall and you leave enough space between them (dark area in the picture below). I could print up to 12 models at once, which is enough for me.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sY731.png)
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I recently wanted to print something with small walls as well and [this site](https://www.gambody.com/blog/3d-printing-gaps-cura-settings/) helped me out.
Basically just set horizontal expansion to 0.04 and Cura does a better job.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: You don't need to use vase mode. But vase mode will work.
I'm not familiar with Cura, I use PrusaSlicer, but I'm sure there are equivalent settings.
What you want to do is model the part in two pieces. The first piece will be the same height as the base. The second piece will be the top half. It can all be one model, but it helps to think of it as two.
In the bottom part, add your hole, and print it with however many solid layers as is required to make the base thickness.
For the top part, make it solid, and print it with 1 perimeter and 0 % infill and 0 top and bottom layers. You can decide the wall thickness by tweaking the extrusion width.
If you want to make the part perfect, you can size the bottom hole by taking the dimensions of the upper portion and subtracting whatever extrusion width you will use from the surfaces.
You can print as many of these as you want as close together as you can because it isn't using vase mode.
Upvotes: 1 |
2020/06/18 | 1,421 | 5,005 | <issue_start>username_0: First of all, I'm quite new to 3D printing. After printing some temperature towers, stringing and bridging tests, I wanted to print the Bechys to see everything working together. I'm getting some strange "bumps" in the outer walls. It looks like for 2-3 layers, the filament gets lifted up.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0w83.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNmNB.jpg)
I first thought, the infill is printed too far in the outer shell, so I unchecked "Infill Before Walls" in Cura. Surprisingly the outcome did not change and the "bumps" where in the exact same spots as before.
I am aware of a part cooling problem, but my stock cooler already sits at 100 %. I don't think, the extruder temperature is too hot, with it being only 200 °C. As you can see, the printer only has a one sided cooling solution with a very small fan conduct.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOANt.jpg)
Print settings:
* Printer: Anycubic I3 Mega S
* Slicer: Cura
* Material: PLA
* Extruder Temp: 200 °C
* Bed Temp: 60 °C
* Print speed: 45 mm/s
* Travel speed: 100mm/s
* Layer height: 0.2 mm
* Layer width: 0.4 mm
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm
* Infill: 10 %
* Retraction distance: 4.5 mm
Retraction speed: 40 mm/s
So I am suspecting it must have something to do with the way, it is sliced. Does anyone have an idea?
Update:
I started the print again with aligned seams. Now you can clearly see the artifact. At the point of the seam the print is warped inwards and upwards.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9IT.jpg)
I did some more prints and tried to increase retraction distance up to 10 mm and retraction speed up to 60 mm/s, but I also did not manage to improve the print. I also tried to enable the "retract at layer change" option and to disable "Z Hop When Retracted" but without success.
I set the travel speed down to 45 mm/s with no change in print quality.<issue_comment>username_1: The fact that the bumps were in the same spots on multiple occasions points to z-axis problems. Turn your printer off and manually turn the z-axis all the way from bottom to top. If there are any tight spots, there is some *z-axis binding*. If there are no tight spots, skip to the last paragraph.
Try taking off the z-axis by removing the set screws (pictured below). Remember which side was pointing up for a later step.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnC4r.jpg)
Once you do that, clean the screw thoroughly with a brush, cloth, solution, or a combination of those. Put the screw back in the opposite way this time.
If you get no bumps, then it was indeed the z-axis
If the bumps are still there, try lowering your temperature some more(200 is still a little high compared to what I do for PLA), and [calibrate your e-steps](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/) if you haven't already.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There are a few issues that could cause this. Roughness in your z-axis lead screw as pointed out by @username_1 is a leading contender I would say. I'd also extended that answer to include checking the belts for your X and Y axes as well as making sure that the rods the gantry slide on are smooth since the fault appears to be in about the same X-Y location as well in the one image.
However, there are a few alternatives as well. Check/confirm that the material that you're using doesn't have a lot of absorbed moisture in it. This can cause little bits of steam to 'pop' when they're extruded causing some bubbles
Because of how the material is folding at the location in the "updated" image this looks to be an issue with the starting and stopping. All of the layer's problems appear to be happening when the gantry moves up to the next layer. Essentially more material is coming out of the nozzle there (I think) than is what should be. Confirming material diameter with some calipers can help if there's just an offset (not too unlikely I don't think).
If the diameters are dead on I'd suggest reducing the nozzle temperature by a few degrees. The sensors used to measure the temperature aren't usually all that accurate, though their precision is often pretty good. While you may have it set at 200C that might not be the actual temperature. Calibration of the thermal sensors can drift over time, so while it might have been good on the last roll it may have drifted slightly. Or the material might be of slightly different composition. Try lowering the nozzle temp by 2-5 degrees and see if that has any effect.
You may also have a retraction setting that can be modified. Pulling the material back ever so slightly when it finishes the one layer as it moves to the next could alos reduce some of the extra material that's coming out.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/06/18 | 805 | 3,206 | <issue_start>username_0: My Ender 3 LCD display was working ok, I went to turn it on recently but is not showing any signal of life anymore...
I have tried unplugging and plugging again, is there a way to test if the screen still works?
What is the issue? Or should I just buy and install a new LCD?<issue_comment>username_1: The fact that the bumps were in the same spots on multiple occasions points to z-axis problems. Turn your printer off and manually turn the z-axis all the way from bottom to top. If there are any tight spots, there is some *z-axis binding*. If there are no tight spots, skip to the last paragraph.
Try taking off the z-axis by removing the set screws (pictured below). Remember which side was pointing up for a later step.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GnC4r.jpg)
Once you do that, clean the screw thoroughly with a brush, cloth, solution, or a combination of those. Put the screw back in the opposite way this time.
If you get no bumps, then it was indeed the z-axis
If the bumps are still there, try lowering your temperature some more(200 is still a little high compared to what I do for PLA), and [calibrate your e-steps](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/) if you haven't already.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There are a few issues that could cause this. Roughness in your z-axis lead screw as pointed out by @username_1 is a leading contender I would say. I'd also extended that answer to include checking the belts for your X and Y axes as well as making sure that the rods the gantry slide on are smooth since the fault appears to be in about the same X-Y location as well in the one image.
However, there are a few alternatives as well. Check/confirm that the material that you're using doesn't have a lot of absorbed moisture in it. This can cause little bits of steam to 'pop' when they're extruded causing some bubbles
Because of how the material is folding at the location in the "updated" image this looks to be an issue with the starting and stopping. All of the layer's problems appear to be happening when the gantry moves up to the next layer. Essentially more material is coming out of the nozzle there (I think) than is what should be. Confirming material diameter with some calipers can help if there's just an offset (not too unlikely I don't think).
If the diameters are dead on I'd suggest reducing the nozzle temperature by a few degrees. The sensors used to measure the temperature aren't usually all that accurate, though their precision is often pretty good. While you may have it set at 200C that might not be the actual temperature. Calibration of the thermal sensors can drift over time, so while it might have been good on the last roll it may have drifted slightly. Or the material might be of slightly different composition. Try lowering the nozzle temp by 2-5 degrees and see if that has any effect.
You may also have a retraction setting that can be modified. Pulling the material back ever so slightly when it finishes the one layer as it moves to the next could alos reduce some of the extra material that's coming out.
Upvotes: 2 |
2020/06/20 | 447 | 1,763 | <issue_start>username_0: Prompted by discussion in comments of a recent question whether PLA is suitable for parts that need to be in contact with acetone, I did some casual experiments and found that my clear/"natural" 3D Solutech PLA is mostly but not entirely resistant to acetone, while my blue Hatchbox PLA is quickly softened and deformed by it. This got me wondering: how do you go about finding PLA that's **actually PLA** (and nothing else)? Just "clear/natural" in product description does not seem to suffice.
I know this is close to a shopping question, so please make suggestions on how it could be improved if it's too close. It'd be great if there were keywords that worked, but an answer is probably going to be more along the lines of how to go about inquiring with manufacturers or where to find places where manufacturers might advertise that their products as pure.<issue_comment>username_1: There's only two ways to make sure it is pure PLA without color and additives:
* Make it yourself. Order PLA-pellets for manufacturing and put them into a filament extrusion machine
* Contact your manufacturer and ask them to do the above for you.
Note though that the pure PLA might have undesirable attributes for pritability that are fought with fillers and additives.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If acetone resistance is what you are after, try PETG:
"While the chemical resistance of PETG is one of its most desirable characteristics, it is also one of the reasons why smoothing PETG prints is challenging. Since dissolving PETG with a solvent, smoothing via solvent application (like acetone smoothing for ABS) is not a very good option."
See 2. Chemical Resistance in <https://3dinsider.com/how-to-smooth-petg-prints/>
Upvotes: 0 |
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