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2019/01/22 | 830 | 2,855 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a way to view more than the last 300 lines in the terminal tab on OctoPrint? Or is there a txt file of a log? Or even a setting/plugin that does either?
I keep finding my prints pausing as if I said to change the filament even though that wasn't set in the slicer, but I catch it long after the 300th line in the terminal so I can't see what OctoPrint is trying to do.<issue_comment>username_1: **Yes**, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just [disable auto scrolling](https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/commit/e9623fdc36c658a5b8abe7769b1b308edfc3f424) ([reference](https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/286#issuecomment-99215149)).
>
> Disabling Autoscroll now completely disables cutting off the lines (so
> you can have way more than 300 lines while that's disabled), filtering
> has been improved too and doesn't cause scrolling anymore.
>
>
>
Note that with disabled autoscrolling, you will be able to see more lines up to the point that the buffer is full. If you need even more lines to monitor, just enable the logging the data to file `serial.log`. If you open the options page (OctoPrint Settings), just tick the box for "Log communication to `serial.log`" under "Serial logging" of the "Serial connection" options.
This serial logging file is typically used for debug purposes, but as can be read from the options, it comes with a warning:
>
> While this can negatively impact performance, a `serial.log` can be
> incredibly useful for debugging any issues observed in the
> communication between OctoPrint and your printer.
>
>
>
You can either access the log file through the OctoPrint options/setting through the "Logging" options tab, or direct download/copy from the logging directory:
>
> * on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs
> * on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs
> * on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Serial logging has to be enabled. **Warning: This will impact the performance of OctoPrint.** Enabling this feature can be done under Settings -> Serial Connection -> Serial Logging and checking the box for "Log communication to serial.log.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp3y4.png)
One can download the log under Settings -> Logging and finding serial.log in the list of log files.
The file can also be found in the following directories (according to [this FAQ](https://discourse.octoprint.org/t/where-can-i-find-octoprints-and-octopis-log-files/299))
>
> All log files that OctoPrint writes can be found in the logs sub folder in its configuration directory:
>
>
> * on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs
> * on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs
> * on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/01/24 | 890 | 2,978 | <issue_start>username_0: When slicing with Slic3r Prusa edition the top layer of most models turns out pretty bad. There are usually small gaps or weird patterns. This does not happen with Ultimaker Cura, it will have a nice smooth top layer. Is there anything settings wise that I can do in Slic3r to get the same quality of top layer as Ultimaker Cura?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGc8C.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbDHj.png)<issue_comment>username_1: **Yes**, you can show more than 300 lines in the terminal; just [disable auto scrolling](https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/commit/e9623fdc36c658a5b8abe7769b1b308edfc3f424) ([reference](https://github.com/foosel/OctoPrint/issues/286#issuecomment-99215149)).
>
> Disabling Autoscroll now completely disables cutting off the lines (so
> you can have way more than 300 lines while that's disabled), filtering
> has been improved too and doesn't cause scrolling anymore.
>
>
>
Note that with disabled autoscrolling, you will be able to see more lines up to the point that the buffer is full. If you need even more lines to monitor, just enable the logging the data to file `serial.log`. If you open the options page (OctoPrint Settings), just tick the box for "Log communication to `serial.log`" under "Serial logging" of the "Serial connection" options.
This serial logging file is typically used for debug purposes, but as can be read from the options, it comes with a warning:
>
> While this can negatively impact performance, a `serial.log` can be
> incredibly useful for debugging any issues observed in the
> communication between OctoPrint and your printer.
>
>
>
You can either access the log file through the OctoPrint options/setting through the "Logging" options tab, or direct download/copy from the logging directory:
>
> * on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs
> * on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs
> * on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Serial logging has to be enabled. **Warning: This will impact the performance of OctoPrint.** Enabling this feature can be done under Settings -> Serial Connection -> Serial Logging and checking the box for "Log communication to serial.log.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hp3y4.png)
One can download the log under Settings -> Logging and finding serial.log in the list of log files.
The file can also be found in the following directories (according to [this FAQ](https://discourse.octoprint.org/t/where-can-i-find-octoprints-and-octopis-log-files/299))
>
> All log files that OctoPrint writes can be found in the logs sub folder in its configuration directory:
>
>
> * on Linux: ~/.octoprint/logs
> * on Windows: %APPDATA%\OctoPrint\logs
> * on MacOSX: ~/Library/Application Support/OctoPrint/logs
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/01/25 | 1,140 | 4,363 | <issue_start>username_0: I've started printing PETG recently and I'm happy with results so far, awesome strength and good looking (except for stringing). But I've noticed that PETG prints better with more distance nozzle-plate than usual, and under-extrusion make parts looking better than both normal/over-extrusion.
* What distance nozzle-plate is optimal for PETG? (i.e. the distance between nozzle and build plate during calibration)
* What extrusion percentage is optimal for PETG?<issue_comment>username_1: I have printed literally kilometers of 2.85 mm PETG filament on various 3D printers, and frankly, I do not share your opinion on an increased calibration distance/offset (like using thicker paper when levelling you build plate or increasing the Z offset by G-code `M851`). I even lower the default first layer height in Ultimaker Cura (0.2 mm prints fine). I am aware that on the web there are folks that do increase the calibration offset, or increase the first layer height, but that should not be necessary on a well tuned printer with sufficient first layer adhesion (e.g. printing on glass with 3DLAC).
Furthermore, the best extrusion multiplier for printing PETG is 100 % on a well tuned extruder for a constant diameter quality filament brand.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Here is the mental framework that I use to reason about PETG: In a nutshell you want to **avoid nozzle contact**.
Unlike most other plastics, PETG sticks to hot brass really well and every time the nozzle moves through material it will pick up some of it. Material around the the nozzle then sticks to a random place creating a blob. It can also cook, turn transparent brown and drop into the print. Investing in a plated nozzle or silicone socks helps but doesn't eliminate the problem completely.
Now to the questions.
### 1) Nozzle Distance
Distance to the plate has to be such that the plastic is laid down precisely without the nozzle dragging through the material (remember, avoid nozzle contact). Precise lines require the build plate to be level and the flow perfectly calibrated. If nozzle is too low and/or the layer is over-extruded then PETG will stick to the nozzle and rip the lines off the plate again. Inspecting the first layer is required for best results. I like to print a layer test pattern **after** the flow has been calibrated and tweak Z offset in 0.02mm increments until it's perfect.
With many other plastics it's ok to have a large amount of "squish" in the first layer as it helps to work around minor leveling issues. This is where the cookie-cutter recommendation to raise the nozzle when printing with PETG is coming from.
### 2) Extrusion percentage
Flow has to be near **perfect**. Down to one percent perfect. Even a slightest over extrusion and some of the excess material will end up on the nozzle when it makes the next pass. Under extrusion isn't great either as this can lead to holes and affect overhangs where thinner strands of a previous pass may not be enough for the next line to stick to.
There are two critical parameters: diameter of the filament and extrusion multiplier. This is how to determine the settings:
1. Measure filament diameter. I use an average of ten measurements over about a meter (yard) of filament taken in multiple orientations.
2. Calibrate the extrusion multiplier using a [method described in Prusa
manual](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/d9j1xdg7vj-extrusion-multiplier-calibration):
I print a 40x40x40 cube in vase mode with extrusion multiplier set
to 1 and fixed extrusion width (e.g. 0.45mm), measure the wall
thickness in three spots on every side, average the results and
compute the correction factor.
I perform flow calibration for every new roll of filament.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: On my Ender 3 Pro's I have found the following works well (also remember settings can be effected by different brand/quality of filament):
* Bed to nozzle 0.2-0.3 mm,
* Multiplier 100 %,
* Nozzle ~230 °C/bed 70 °C,
* Speed 50 mm/s.
* Cooling off first few layers but from there cooling and retraction is part specific.
If you use retraction, it may help to slow it down to 25 mm/s and adjust retract distance if your using Bowden tube or direct drive. Last, a must have, a can of hair spray, works great and less expensive than the glues.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/01/26 | 968 | 3,507 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a [Monoprice Maker Ultimate 3D Printer](https://www.monoprice.uk/products/monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer-uk) and have tried to replace the nozzle.
The nozzles I bought turned out to be too small.
What are the important specifications of a nozzle?
* Thread size
* Thread length
* That plastic tube thing?
Monoprice is very bad at publishing the specs, can I work it out with a caliper?<issue_comment>username_1: What part fits?
---------------
A replacement nozzle needs to fit 3 parameters:
* Thread diameter and pitch need to match up, to allow mounting
* Thread length should be close to the original to allow secure fastening
* The style needs to fit: there are quite some styles of nozzle - most are not lined, yours is PTFE lined to the nozzle (see also [Can the filament tube be outside of the nozzle?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7497/can-the-filament-tube-be-outside-of-the-nozzle/7498#7498))
Monoprice nozzles are **not** compatible with what is known as Ultimaker Mk8 or E3D style (which you bought). They are Ultimaker Mk10 style.
What's a good nozzle?
---------------------
Now, what separates a good replacement nozzle from a bad one?
* good machining to leave no burs and a smooth interior.
* a good inner geometry that allows easy flow
* outlet hole is to size
Finding premade replacement parts
---------------------------------
As a first measure to not get the wrong replacement parts, make sure to add the manufacturer of your printer to the search and then check the thread diameter if given. In your case, you might have to add Monoprice or Toymaker, as those use this style of nozzle.
Reverse engineering a Nozzle
----------------------------
Now, which measurements do you need to reverse engineer it?
* nozzle front pitch angle
* hex head flat-to-flat & hight
* recess diameter & hight
* screw shaft relief diameter & hight
* thread outer diameter & length
* inner bore diameter at entry (and in case of a lined one: after the step) & corresponding depth of drilling
* amount of chamfering
With these, it's possible to do do a CNC model or a sketch of the outside and produce pretty much blanks or shells on a lathe that just need their last little bit of drilling... and here comes the tricky part: till now, all could be accessed from the outside. We are missing one profile though: the last piece of the inner bore geometry.
This one can't easily be measured, but if one can push some plastic in, let it cool and then pull it out, one might get a molding of it, which might allow to reverse engineer a fitting drill for the last piece.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a so-called MK10 nozzle, it is larger than the normal nozzles you find (as you found out).
There are quite a few questions on this nozzle, with e.g. [this answer](/a/7366) or [this answer](/a/7512).
This nozzle uses M7 (metric threads of 7 mm) to have more room to fit the PTFE tube (white tube) in the nozzle itself. This tube forms the barrier between the heating source and the filament feed so that it does not melt too soon. You can find these nozzles on those typical auction websites by searching for "MK10 and M7".
When you have ordered the correct nozzle you could reuse the existing PTFE liner if it has not degraded or damaged, or buy replacement PTFE tube of 4 mm outer diameter and 1.9 or 2 mm inner diameter and cut a similar sized replacement liner.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/01/29 | 2,441 | 9,680 | <issue_start>username_0: Probably the question sounds a little strange; however, I am looking for a filament which is breakable and not so steady and reliable as PLA. I want to print parts similar to the following gears for instance (They are from Lego, a children's toy). [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dsvt3.png)
They should break after some time or in any way become unusable after an accidental period (1 minute to several days) of use. Yes, you read right: I want to print parts that are frangible and probably will break! I plan to use Ultimaker 3 as 3D printer. So I'm looking for a suitable filament. Maybe I can merge two types of filament?
Could Ultimaker's TPU filament (<https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/tpu-95a>) be useful for my purpose? Or can anybody recommend me another filament that can be useful for my intended use? The primary purpose is that the printed part is not stable enough to serve its original purpose for longer than a foreseeable time (1 minute to several days). I appreciate your advice and ideas.
---
Note: I don't want to sell them; I want to use them for my **private** project. So please no legal issues. They are not helpful for my question. I don't ask for legal advice.<issue_comment>username_1: deliberate/planned obsolescence is the term you look for
--------------------------------------------------------
If you design parts that break after some time, you plan their obsolescence. That you do by a deliberate choice of material and working conditions. Designing a part that will break after a certain time can be done by choosing the correct stresses that will make your chosen material break.
In a gear that is meant to break at certain stress, one can weaken the teeth or the sprues, so that normal operation stresses will very likely break the safety margin and destroy the gear.
is it a material choice?
------------------------
Any material is suitable to make a planned break, as long as *the design* is suitable. Performing a stress analysis of your part will tell you where to weaken it to enforce it will break - if the part was solid. As printed parts in FDM aren't solid, take the result with salt - it will tell *where* but not *when* it fails. Do the experiment for actual numbers.
is it a print setting thing?
----------------------------
Besides deliberately under-engineering some part of the gear, a usually perfectly fine gear would lose a lot of strength by deliberately reducing how massive it is: the stability of a print is affected by the form and amount of the infill just as much as the number of shells. Some random setting examples:
* 1-shelled, 1-bottom/top-layer, 5% infill piece is very likely so fragile you might not get it off the build plate
* these parameters at 2-5-10% results in a somewhat durable piece.
* 2-5-20% is more than twice as strong as 2-5-10%.
To find the exact breaking point of a setup, one might need to toy with the parameters and experiment. It might be interesting to use no top- or bottom-layers and thus turn to create all the *spokes* of the gear in the shape of infill and outer shell. Also, some infills are better at withstanding forces than others - for example, Gyroid or Hex infill is rather stable on pressure while spaghetti is quite weak.
Other parameters also can change the infill stability: speeding up the print of the infill compared to the shell and using a thinner line considerably weakens the infill, thus reducing the needed load to break it. This is a somewhat easy parameter to tweak if you want to go for breaking the spokes (see below).
planned obsolescence and how to under-engineer safely
-----------------------------------------------------
Sometimes, planned destruction is good for safety: a safety valve is supposed to break under overpressure to release the pressure in a safe way.
But planned obsolescence can also be a safety risk: If a toy breaks under normal use, it is a safety hazard for the broken off parts can be swallowed by children. Another factor to look at is where broken off parts end up in the machinery - they might jam other pieces that are not meant to self-destruct and destroy them.
* Design the pieces to break in a safe way - the larger the chunks, the better you prevent them from going into places they should not.
* Design the teeth to deform or melt rather than shearing off
* Design the axles to sheer free by losing their keying
* Design the spokes of the gears to break, separating gear rim from axle & hub, either of which goes nowhere due to the other gears and the mounting
* Encase the self-destruct gears in some sort of gearbox to prevent the pieces from going flying
Industrial machinery design usually goes the melting way: Let's take a hand mixer. It contains a gearset that has one drive gear connected to a second gear, so that both mixers spin opposite. Under normal use, these spin pretty fast, creating heat from the friction. In a good design, these two gears are made from metal or a high heat tolerant polymer. But if one plans for having them break, these gears are made from a material that will heat under the friction in such a way, that after a set time (around 5 minutes), the teeth will be sufficiently weakened to deform and grind away, destroying them in the process.
Preferred Material
------------------
I would actually deliberately under-design the gears for the expected loads and then go for a solid material printed in SLA or SLS from either a resin (which will break with pieces and bits going flying, so a gearbox is mandatory!) or a polyamide (nylon). These parts would match the stress analysis fully.
If FDM is the only option, the material choice depends on the failure mode you opted for:
* In case you opt for destruction from heat on the teeth or axle, a low melting material like PLA is perfectly fine, but make sure to engineer the chance of breaking teeth low. ABS can perform a little better but needs more heat (and thus more RPM) to self destruct.
* In case of designing for a breaking failure of spokes or keying, PLA is an excellent choice, as it is sufficiently brittle.
* PETG is a good compromise between ABS deformability and PLA's printing ease.
---
### Footnotes
Gear Design
When designing your gears, keep in mind that gears are rather complicated. I actually advise to take a look on the gross oversimplification of [This Old Tony](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-XOM4E4RZQ) because it allows you to see where you can make teeth break very easily by design!
planned obsolescence and consumer rights
While planned obsolescence can be an important safety factor, planning obsolescence in consumer products for sale to break them after a calculated time is unethical and can be a [consumer rights violation.](https://www.twobirds.com/en/news/articles/2018/global/planned-obsolescence-and-consumers-rights) Remember, that legally demanded warranty and a right to repair exist in [a lot of countries.](https://equiterre.org/en/news/legislation-against-obsolescence)
LEGO is Copyrighted, Patented and Trademarked
Copying Lego designs would be a Trademark Violation, Patent infringement **and** a [copyright](https://www.copyright.gov/circs/circ15a.pdf) violation by using their designs. They [protect](https://www.beemlaw.com/billion-dollar-lego-patent/) them.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I won't even ask why you need this and I assume you've done your homework about the issues. 3D printed gears are notorious for failing even when designed well, so the idea in general should be pretty doable.
TPU would be a terrible choice for a number of reasons. It's flexible which would make it a bad gear to begin with, but it is also very very tough. So it may last quite a long time, but perform very poorly. You specifically mention not using PLA, but I doubt you'll find a material that suites what you are looking for, more likely the print settings should be changed.
Design Ideas
------------
My personal recommendation would be to use a good material such as PETG, ABS or PLA and deliberately under-design it. This way when it is overloaded, the part will fail. Be sure to consider how you want the part to fail, this will decide which material you should. As for how to under-design it: This would take a bit of testing. 3D printers create an enormous range of material properties due to infill, layer height, etc. For a starting point, change the infill level down until you get the desired results.
Those parts look pretty thin to begin with, if the infill is not an option, try to reduce your wall thickness and thickness of top and bottom layers. One pass thick walls with no infill will be awfully weak and flexible. That flex should be enough to get you what you need. Eventually you can get it down to just a shell of a part with 0.2 or 0.1 mm thickness all around.
Material Choice
---------------
PLA will shatter, possibly resulting in further failure if caught in other gears. The small parts may cause an issue though when it fails.
ABS will deform and probably not shatter, but it is difficult to print with. I would not recommend this.
PETG is on of my favorite materials - it is relatively easy to print with, very strong and bends instead of shattering on failure. This may be a good material to use.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This metod will be difficult with gears but doable. Print cold and slightly under extruded. This will cause part to fail in layers. You may need to print the part on side to ensure a non functioning gear. Use PLA or PETG. Breaking TPU is next to impossible.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/01/30 | 363 | 1,296 | <issue_start>username_0: I made some 3D printed supports for tools, using screws to fix it to the wall, some of them broken because of the screw forces. Is there a way to reinforce only the screw holes where it will have more stress/compress? I am using PLA, Fusion 360 and Ultimaker Cura.<issue_comment>username_1: You can test different print settings. Trying to visualize, but I believe you can increase the **perimeter lines**, since there is a hole, this will increase the resistance in that area. Or try to change the **orientation** with which the part will be printed
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can use a washer between the screw head and the plastic material to distribute the load
In my designs I also put in a depression to fit the washer so that it sits flush with the resultant surface.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Mh31.png)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: In order to add localised extra walls, I will sometimes *cut* a torus shape around the part that I want to strengthen. This can result in n\*wall, infill, n\*wall, void, n\*wall.
See the images in this [answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/7022/4927) if the description is not clear.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/01/31 | 1,094 | 4,119 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?
What is maximum safe travel speed?
My printer is a German RepRap Neo.
I currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?
What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?<issue_comment>username_1: Short answer **no**
We use stepper drivers to limit the current, the travel speed is at capped by the amount of current supplied by the stepper drivers. This prevents the stepper motors from damaging themselves. You can set 200mm/s in the slicer, but you have no guarantee that that will be reached in real life.
One thing to keep in mind though is that setting your travel speed too high can induce artifacts such: shifted layers, ghosting, uneven extrusion, etc. So the best thing is to keep the speeds within the specified limits.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Stepper motors contain permanent magnets, which are only really damaged by heat. The coils in the motor are only damaged by high currents that would happen at voltages above the maximum rating of the motor. While it is possible to configure a stepper driver to send enough current into a stepper motor to damage it (either due to heat or over current), desktop 3d printer drivers do not have enough current capacity to do such damage to those NEMA 17 stepper motors. The only thing bad that will happen is that you risk over heating the driver or the components around it on the PCB causing an early failure of the parts. (Google "Temperature Cycling and Fatigue in electronics").
That aside, the only problem that you are likely to encounter is stepper stalling.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: >
> What would my printer do if I set very big travel speed?
>
>
>
If a speed is set above the limits of the stepper, the stepper will stop rotating or stutters.
Basically there are 2 limits, the first is the limit of the board to generate the pulses to the stepper and second, how these pulses are processed by the stepper.
The speed of steppers depends on several aspects, including:
* microprocessor speed
* stepper driver
* micro-stepping setting
* voltage
* etc.
[This reference](https://reprap.org/wiki/Step_rates) gives you some more background as well as a table (which is a little optimistic for Marlin firmware) with maximum speeds. Depending on the application in your printer (stepper type, pulley size and microstepping value), it lists some maximum speeds for various boards:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zXIWC.png)
>
> What is maximum safe travel speed?
>
>
>
In case of an Anet A8, 1,8°; 16-teeth-GT2-pulley; 1/16 microstepping, this leads to 160 mm/s on Marlin on an Atmega microprocessor (note this is optimistic).
>
> I currently use 120 mm/s. Is it safe to increase this value to 200 mm/s?
>
>
>
That depends. If you work out the mechanical and electronic details of your printer, you could look up the value you could ultimately use.
>
> Is there any risk of damaging stepper motors if I set too big travel speed?
>
>
>
No there is not, the stepper will stutter or stop. I've had this with too fast retractions on an extruder stepper motor.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: A high speed is unlikely to be reached unless you also set a high acceleration, and acceleration is generally more likely to cause a problem (unless you reach the pulse rate limit of the drivers).
High acceleration will increase vibration, and critically requires higher torque from the motors. At some point, the torque will exceed the motor/drive current capability, and the motor will skip steps. As soon as this starts to happen, your print will become unusable.
Before reaching the point of missed steps, you're likely to see other quality issues, but unless you're in a very hot environment, unlikely to see damage to the motor. Depending on the quality and heatsinking of the stepper driver, you might see overheating here (you can check for overheating of the board though).
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/01/31 | 964 | 3,456 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to create a micromouse project for fun that use 2 20 mm x 8.5 mm (0.8 mm shaft) motors. I have my own PCB as base. I want its built-in gears will be attached to two 3D-printed wheels with gears at the back of the wheels at each side. I'm having hard time to start designing the gears since I couldn't find any tutorial.
(photo for reference and not mine)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ady1o.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JM9F.jpg)
My Question:
1. How to design the gears at the back of the wheel? (I use Sketchup)
2. Is 3d-printing such small objects possible?<issue_comment>username_1: Designing gears is very difficult for a variety of reasons. Let me list what you should take into account:
1. The shape of the teeth are very peculiar, trapezoid shape will not work as the meshing will not be constant. Exact shape is controlled by the pressure angle
2. In lower number of teeth, teeth shape must be modified to avoid any locks, these are called cutoffs
3. Reducing the amount of material to print requires careful design, most people simply place circles but they cause weak points.
4. Herringbone and double herringbone gears improve meshing but are even more difficult to design.
For the reasons stated above, creating gears by hand is next to impossible without special tools. Luckily for those who are searching for it, there are systems that generate gears for 3D printing. This [customizer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427458) has many options and is very open about the licensing, which is another issue with many scripts. For example, it is explicitly forbidden to print parts imported from the McMaster-Carr Catalogue.
If you use OpenSCAD, [this library](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1427673) can create racks to go with the gears.
The parameters of the customizer are explained in the page. The script also contains explanations of every module and function.
Disclaimer: Both scripts are mine, yet I do not earn anything when people use them. I created the library when I was unable to find the gears I needed, published with a relaxed license to help others.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There are also several [gear generators](https://geargenerator.com/) out there. Correct gear geometry is important for long life and noise reasons.
One thing to keep in mind is that iff you are able to print accurate gears it's easy to print [herringbone gears](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herringbone_gear) which are not easily machinable with other techniques.
That should cover the how (use a generator and import the geometry). The "is it possible" depends on your 3d printing skills, if possible you need to be able to do 0.1 mm tolerances, elephant footing will make the gear unusable.
That said I was able to print some planetary gears 'in place' (ie. assembled on the print bed) using a raft to avoid fusion of the lower layers:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5XYIT.jpg)
Spinning the gear printed on raft: <https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdfuZ.jpg>
Spinning the gear without a raft directly on the print bed: <https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQ72S.jpg>
The first one is still on my work desk as a fidget spinner because it spins so nicely ;-)
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/02/02 | 1,339 | 5,152 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently, at work we bought a Guider II printer from FlashForge.
When we try to print models using a high resolution or models with a too high printing time, the feeder gets clogged. And the feeder is too hot. We have concluded that the feeder is getting clogged because the high temperature softens the PLA.
We check the feeder fan and is working fine. How can I avoid the jamming? Pausing the 3D printer and wait a few minutes is not working for us. I don't know if it is a common problem for this 3D printer model.
**Edit:**
The hotend is an all metal hot end. I can't find more information about the hot end.
In the manual of the guider II flashforge recommend a temperature of 210°C for the head and 30°C for the bed. I have tried different temperatures. The most common temperature I've used is 190°C for the head and 55°C for the bed (I obtain the best results with this temperature).
This is the Hotend used by this 3d printer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jrEnr.png)<issue_comment>username_1: If the temperature is too high it can charr the plastic, causing jams. There are many reasons for that. If the temperature you have selected is not too high (<200C), then it might be the thermistor not correctly reading the temperature. If you can measure the hot end temperature, that will give definitive answer to that question.
Additionally, some filament contains additives that can get burned even at lower temperatures. I find it every difficult to print with woodfill if it takes very long to print. Some wood chips gets burned and causes jamming.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Don't know about your specific printer model, but I encountered late print fails with clogged systems due to plastic molten above the heat break due to excessive use of retracts.
Retracting hot material transports heat up into the normally cooled down heat break part.
If you set up a very long retract or retract very often, the amount of heat can surpass what the fan is able to push off and soften the filament above the heat break.
Try adjusting the retraction settings in your slicer and see if it helps on longer prints.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: The symptoms you describe hint to heat creep. Heat creep is the gradual increase in temperature of the cold end assembly (cooling fins and heat break). This gradual temperature increase leads to too high filament temperatures and as such premature filament softening. In combination with (large) retraction settings, this can lead to clogging of the nozzle. All-metal hotend assemblies are more prone experiencing these problems; lined hotends have a PTFE lining that also insulates the filament so that it does not soften prematurely like in all-metal hotends can happen. Heat creep is best remedied by properly cooling the hotend (good quality fan, no obstructions or large ducts) and reducing the retraction length (and possibly lowering the print temperature, but you already tried that). You could also contact the manufacturer for advice.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: As Oscar [pointed out](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8173/8884), this seems to be heat-creep.
What is Heat Creep
------------------
Hear Creep happens if the thermal energy deposited in the hotend works up through the heat break and out of the dedicated melt zone, resulting in filament clogging up in the coolend.
Where does Heat Creep come from
-------------------------------
Heat Creep is usually a sign of having chosen the settings for the print incorrectly.
The biggest culprit is by having a too high printing temperature. I personally have not yet encountered any PLA that demands to be printed at above 200 °C.
In an all-metal hotend, the flow of filament down the path is a serious contributor or keeping heat-creep in check. So as a result, very low extrusion speeds have to be avoided to allow to keep the melting happening only in the meltzone. As the speed of extruded filament is related to the diameter of the extrusion, it is usually better to stay away from very small nozzle diameters.
The anatomy of the heatbreak is also a factor. Take a look at your heatbreak and then at for example the e3D v6 heatbreak below. As you see, it is necked down between the coolend section (the long part) and the part that screws into the heater block (the short part). This reduces the capability of heat to transfer up through the heatbreak, as $I\propto A =(R\_a^2-R\_i^2)\times\pi$. If $R\_a$, the outer radius, shrinks by necking down the heatbreak, then the whole flow of thermal energy is reduced, counteracting heat-creep. But that has to be designed for.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5DKmC.jpg)
Another factor that can result in heat creep is insufficient cooling of the cool end. Make sure that the fan that is mounted on the cooling fins spins always and gets 100% of its supply voltage power. Then make sure that it can draw in the maximum amount of air and push it out an unobstructed path.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/02 | 1,264 | 4,700 | <issue_start>username_0: After I level my Ender 3, the distance between the nozzle and the bed seems fine on both ends, but moving the bed on the Y axis shows that it's increasing and decreasing for three times, which I just cant fix.
This only occurs on the left side - the right side is constant from beginning to end.
Also I've been using three different beds (the magnetic one and two glasses) to make sure it's really something else.
I created [this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zqLqTGeljyw) to demonstrate the problem.
I'm sure that this has something to do with the carriage wheel adjustment, but tightening those did not change anything.
How do I get rid of this problem?<issue_comment>username_1: Your video shows that your bed seems warped somewhat.
Ammount of error
----------------
As I assume you did level the bed with a sheet of paper to be 0.1 mm thick, we can estimate the change of thickness. The thickest point seems to be 0.2 mm, the thinnest 0.05. that's in average an error of 0.075 mm for the first layer. If you can live with that, no need to touch it.
Fixing the issue
----------------
Basically, if the error is too large for your liking, you need to fix it. To fix it, there are pretty much 2 ways. Remember that [the Ender-3 uses 24V](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6342/what-voltage-does-the-creality-ender-3-run-at) when ordering parts!
### Fix the part or install a replacement part
If you feel like you need to get it even flatter, you'll need to try to flatten the bed mechanically or replace it. You'll need to be comfortable to remove the BuildTak-clone surface, then remove the leveling screws, open the electronics enclosure, remove some hot glue, unhook the bed.
Then you will need to flatten the bed in some way (grinding the upper side perfectly flat or bending it, replacing it for an entirely flat one).
Then reinstall it, going through the uninstallation backward, and add a new build surface on it.
### Switch to alternate leveling method: Mesh Bed Leveling
If you consider yourself to be able to do some intermediate to advanced modification of your printer, you can change the hotend carriage to one that allows mounting a distance sensor and changing the firmware to mesh-bed-leveling.
You'll need to get an induction or capacity sensor (common operation ranges for those are 6-36V, so perfectly fine with 24V) and [some way to couple that to the board](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6358/inductive-sensor-in-24-v-machine), most likely an optocoupler. Print a new mounting for sensor and fans.
To install you open the electronics compartment, hook up your chosen 24V-5V coupler as extra to the Z-switch, hook the power supply of the sensor up and run it up to the printhead. Replace the mounting for the hotend cooling fan and part cooling fan and [change your firmware](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6660/8884). Calibrate the height of the sensor to trigger correctly.
I did flash a bootloader [via the ISP](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6685/how-to-install-new-atmega-firmware-via-the-isp-pins) on my ender-3 since then, so I can just flash the new firmware via a direct connection.
Last words
----------
In either way, after fixing, you should run a PID-tune on the machine.
Thermal Runaway might or might not be active, depending on your firmware iteration, so you should update it anyway, which might make Mesh Bed Leveling the slightly easier way to go.
This has *nothing* to do with the bed carriage wheels, as the bed hangs onto the carriage only via the screws in the corners.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I managed to get rid of the problem by installing a **linear rail** for the y-axis!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LlUD.jpg)
Used this mod from thingyverse: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3064275>
There are also solutions out there which are placing a linear rail on the left AND right side, but since for me the problem was only on the left side, this seemed sufficient (and was).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Blue Painters tape on the left side starting at the center and leaving a band on the far left side and the rear Perfetto side. I checked the before and after and the thickness of the tape shimmed out the deflection on the plate. It sounds like whatever the use to stamp the steel out is creating the bend we are only talking several thousands of an inch but when I put a flat edge on the plate and shined a light from the rear I could see daylight. The blue tape was from Nearys video on creality cr-10 bed leveling.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/02 | 1,361 | 4,082 | <issue_start>username_0: I just completed my first print on my Ender-3 and when the print finalized itself the nozzle didn't elevate itself to clear away from the piece. I watched as the nozzle slowly lowered itself into my print and destroy it. Here is the gcode generated by Slic3r used:
```
; Filament-specific end gcode
G4 ; wait
M221 S100
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G91
G1 F1800 E-3
G90
G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up
G28 X0 ; home x and y axis
G1 Y180; Remove Print Position
M84 ; disable motors
M300 S2600 P100; Beep
; filament used = 24040.5mm (57.8cm3)
; total filament cost = 0.0
```
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZncw.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Your print end code should have read something akin to this:
```
; Filament sy end gcode
G4 ; wait
M221 S100
M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
; End code
G1 F1800 E-3 ; retract 3 mm
G1 Z30 ; Move print head up 30mm
G28 X0 ; home x and y axis
M84 ; disable motors
M300 S2600 P100; Beep
```
The problem with your end code is the `G90` for **absolute** measurements together with the formula `G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}{endif}` to set the height. The printer itself doesn't calculate anything. That what it doesn't interpret, it ignores, interpreting that whole thing as something crazy like `G1 Z30` to force the printer to go to Absolute 30 mm above absolute 0. To fix it, your slicer would need to calculate `{z_offset+min(layer_z+30, max_print_height)}` for the printer - which seems to come out to 30mm above the print and then an if-statement that is not started anywhere.
Going up 30 mm can be much easier be done by staying in `G91 ; relative measurements` and calling `G1 Z30` to go up another 30 mm, though this might be too high for the printer frame.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You are using **incorrect commands** in your end-code for the **incorrect tool** with respect to the print head raise.
Slic3r has no knowledge of the maximum printer height (as in variable `max_print_height`) because there is **no input field to specify this**, as can be seen in this partial screenshot:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qPz1z.png)
However, in Slic3r PE (Prusa Edition), there is a possibility to enter such a value, as seen in the following partial screenshot:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lCHxV.png)
Note that in both editions, the `Bed shape` interface is equivalent when `Set...` is pressed:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTLBm.png)
To use the raising of the head, respecting the maximum print height, in **Slic3r PE**, you need to add the following line:
```
{if layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+60, max_print_height)}{endif}
```
This will parse fine in **Slic3r PE**, but not in **Slic3r** (as `max_print_height` is not known).
If you want such a command in **Slic3r**, you need to enter (for a printer with a maximum print height of 240 mm):
```
G1 Z{[z_offset]+min([layer_z]+3, 240)}
```
results in Slic3r for a 20x20x20 mm calibration cube with a zero `z_offset` to:
```
G1 Z23
```
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The same thing happened to me several years ago. My print was a fairly tall part for my delta printer, about 220 mm. In many previous prints, the print head would always go up after finishing, but what I didn't know was that the Slic3r finish print routine specified an absolute Z height of about 200 mm. When the tall part finished, the still-hot print head moved down and ruined the top of the print.
After figuring out that the routine had an absolute reference, I replaced it with a relative movement 20 mm up. It's worked fine since then. An easy fix.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/03 | 369 | 956 | <issue_start>username_0: OpenSCAD has `rotate` function which rotates the body around its origin axis.
Is there a way to specify an arbitrary axis?
For example, this rotates a cylinder around its center:
```
rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {
cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);
}
```
How to make it rotate around its edge?<issue_comment>username_1: `rotate()` always rotates around the origin of the object following it.
What you can do is to move your cylinder *away* from the origin, like this:
```
rotate(a=[90,0,0]) {
translate([0,10,0]) cylinder(h=10,r1=10,r2=10);
}
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use the following module in your code to achieve what you wish:
```
module myrotate(a, orig) {
translate(orig)
rotate(a)
translate(-orig)
children();
}
myrotate([0,0,90], [0, 10, 0]) {
cube([10, 10, 25]);
}
myrotate([0,0,-90], [0, 10, 0]) {
cube([10, 10, 25]);
}
color([1, 0, 0])
cube([10, 10, 25]);
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/04 | 793 | 2,916 | <issue_start>username_0: When I run prints on my Creality CR-10S Pro 3D printer (using Ultimaker Cura as slicer), I set the heated bed to around 70 °C for PETG. after the first few layers, the heated bed set point changes to 0 °C.
Is it normal for a 3D printer to turn the heated bed off during a print, or is this a problem?
I have had some parts warping, and wonder if this is a potential cause.<issue_comment>username_1: That is not normal behavior for the heated beds. I don't have that exact model, but when I print the heated bed will stay to whatever temp was set in the slicer program. Unless you override it manually on the printer itself during the print. I would check slicer settings ensuring temp doesn't change after it's first layers.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: **No**, this is not common behavior, and **yes** this can cause your prints to warp or detach from the build plate.
The question is whether you instructed this (by accident) or not (e.g. it can be a result from slicing or some economy mode of the printer). This should be clear if you look into the G-code file that you print. The typical commands that concern bed heating are [`M140`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M140:_Set_Bed_Temperature_.28Fast.29) and [`M190`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp).
Please note that this a generic answer to find bed heating operation in your G-code file. Other answers, e.g [this one](/a/8425/) and [this one](/a/8285/) hint to a specific ability of the printer that shuts off the heating of the bed when it is working in an economic mode. Note that this is printer specific.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Cr-10 S Pro has an eco mode make sure it's not turned on because this will turn your bed off after the first few layers have printed.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: I do have the CR 10S Pro as well and for me it does the same but only because it's a setting in the slicer I enabled. Make sure you check the slicer settings to make sure it is not a setting which is turning it off.
Personally I do let it cool down after 10 layers since it does save energy, and I've not seen any negative effects because of it when printing PLA. Have not yet tried PETG or ABS on this printer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: If you start a print there is an "Adjust" button, that will take you to a screen where there is an option "Economic". It that is left on it will turn off the bed heater during the print.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_6: The heat bed turns off because economy mode is set to on ***by default***, change this in the adjustment menu.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: I have a new CR10 max.
I can't find any adjustments for the bed temperature settings other than the basic ones in the Creality slicer. I'm not sure if the latest software has got this facility.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/04 | 761 | 2,655 | <issue_start>username_0: A couple of weeks ago I have successfully built a 3D Printer and Printed an XYZ Calibration Cube with ABS material at bed temperature 80 °C.
Next Day I tried bed heating at bed temperature 80 °C,
>
> Screen is blank
>
>
>
and it's not heating at all and showing Following error.
>
> Bed Heating Failed
> Printer Halted
> Please Reset
>
>
>
### Specification board
I use a RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin 1.1.X
### Troubleshooting
I searched on Google and tried possible solutions but they are not working.
1. I changed the thermistor and nothing happened, the old thermistor is also showing the same temperature.
2. I connected 12V Supply Positive to SMPS (Switched-Mode Power Supply) and Negative to RAMPS 1.4 and not working
3. I checked the Voltage at heat bed it's showing zero in spite connecting to SMPS
Please let me know how can I fix the problem?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMlmM.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Check that your heated bed is still working:
* Measure the resistance of your heated bed. It depends an the power
rating of the bed, but 12V beds usually have values <3 Ohms. That's
hard to measure for cheap multimeters, but you just need to check
that it's not MOhms which would indicate a broken heated bed.
* Your heated bed could also have a short. That's hard to measure, as <3Ohms are already 'almost a short'. You'll only notice because your
bed will not get warm, but the wires, connectors and elements on the
RAMPS will get even hotter. Marlin should detect this and switch off
after a few seconds.
* Check your thermistor. Seems you already did that.
* Check your RAMPS by measuring the voltage on the bed connector while setting the bed to heat up. You should see 12V, at least in the
frist few seconds.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I've just been reading *3D Printing Failures: 2020 Edition* by <NAME> and <NAME> -- one of the things they really harp on is that the high current connectors on the RAMPS board for the bed heat are grossly under-rated -- that is, they're connectors rated for about 4-5 A, while the bed needs to draw about twice that to heat a rated power level. Their recommendation is to switch this connector on the RAMPS board for one rated at a minimum of 16 A to ensure it has a safety margin over the most current a 12V bed heater will draw.
If you use an e-reader, you may want to consider downloading this book -- it's only ten dollars for Kindle (also available on Kindle Unlimited), or twenty for a paper copy, and to my eye, it's worth having.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/04 | 1,166 | 3,889 | <issue_start>username_0: Heads up: I'm not good with electronics and only have a vague idea of it's inner workings.
I have a [E3D V6 Extruder rated for 24 V](https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Printer-V6-Wade-Short-distance-J-head-Hotend-12V-for-1-75mm-3-0mm-Extruder/32810022530.html?spm=a2g0v.10010108.1000016.1.197a7c35uzmRpw&isOrigTitle=true), that i plan to use in my 3D printer. Will there be any problems with it if powered by 12 V? Will it take longer to heat up? Will it be able to heat up enough to melt PLA? Will it work at all for that matter?
If there are any other quirks or potential problems that I overlooked, please let me know.<issue_comment>username_1: Electrical engineering can be quite complex, but in this case you can save yourself with same simple equations/relations. Using the following formulae:
* ***Voltage ($\ U$) equals current ($I$) multiplied by the electrical resistance ($R$)***
$$ U=I \times R $$
and
* ***Power ($P$) equals the square of the current multiplied by the electrical resistance***
$$ P=I^2 \times R $$
can be rewritten using the first formula to:
$$ P= \frac{U^2}{R} $$
Applying these formulae to a **40 Watt, 24 V** heater element, the electrical resistance (in $\Omega $) is calculated by:
$$ \frac{{(24\ V)}^2}{40\ W}=14.4\ \Omega $$
Running this heater element with 12 V will lead to a power of
$$ \frac{{(12\ V)}^2}{14.4\ \Omega}=10\ W $$
The heat produced is proportional to the square of the current multiplied by the electrical resistance, ***halving the voltage*** is ***quartering the heat output***. This will heat up very slowly! If it is able to reach the required temperature that is. Calculating the temperature is far more difficult, but if you are interested in doing so, please look into [this answer](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/33009/) from the [Electrical Engineering](https://electronics.stackexchange.com/) Stack Exchange.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: No, it probably won't work as you want. As explained in another answer, you will only achieve 25% of the expected power. So it will take 4 times as long to heat up, will have a lower 'highest temperature', and most critically will reduce the possible print speed by a factor of around 4 (actually more, since a proportion of the power is lost to the room rather than used to melt filament).
I guess that you *could* print with this setup as a temporary measure (so long as it's PLA, or some other low-ish temperature filament). It would not be a sensible choice, particularly since the extruder only needs a single component to be swapped out to change between 12 V and 24 V operation (the heater cartridge). All the mechanical parts will be identical between the two versions, and these are the 'expensive' elements in the assembly.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: No not by itself.
Also you need to check the wires in the ATX power supply as 16 gauge wire might melt depending on how many amps it needs.
You could on the other hand connect 2 ATX power supplies the plus 12v on power supply 1 to the 12v ground on the second power supply. Then use a volt meter to confirm your getting 24v out. On the 2 leads not connected.
This still could run into problems as you have to be careful with the wire gauge. You need 14g wire for 15 amps, and 12g (thicker) for 20 amps. Finding an ATX power supply with better than 12g wire is highly unlikely.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: It will take longer to heat up. However if you use a [boost converter](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XWSV89D) (like I did on my Anet A8 when I upgraded to a [Maxiwatt](https://www.hot-end.com/) 24 V hot end), then it will work just fine without any further adjustments; to the power supply or the gauges of the wire etc. I set the boost from 12 to 24 volts. Now my A8 heats up in 56 seconds!
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/05 | 265 | 965 | <issue_start>username_0: My Prusa Mk3 has been making this sort of rough surface on prints, and I'm not sure what caused this. I am printing with PLA Prusament with 0.2 mm layer height at the preset for PLA. What is this, and how can I fix it?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRzOM.jpg)
Edit: Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!<issue_comment>username_1: To me this looks like your nozzle is too hot. Try turning the temp down by 5 degrees at a time and see if the issue goes away.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The OP was not able to reproduce the problem as can be taken from an edit to his question:
>
> Changed absolutely nothing, tried again and problem solved!
>
>
>
*To honor the Q/A approach used on SE sites, this comment has been converted to a community answer, that once voted for will not make this question pop up once in a while.*
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/06 | 815 | 2,721 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Creatorbot 3D printer made by 3D PrinterWorks. Their website appears to be down, as well as their Facebook page. To me it appears they are no longer around.
I've installed Slic3r as 3D PrinterWorks has recommended in the handbook but cannot download the settings for this from the 3D PrinterWorks website, since that is down.
Does anyone know where I can get the Slic3r configuration file for the Creatorbot?<issue_comment>username_1: Looks like 3dprinterworks.net went down sometime after March 2018 and 3dprinterworks.com went down in January 2019. Luckily the Wayback Machine still has the [machine's specs](https://web.archive.org/web/20161209084908/https://www.3dprinterworks.com/products/creatorbot-3d-pro-series-ii).
Here is the instructions for entering settings in Slic3r as found [here](https://manual.slic3r.org/expert-mode/printer-settings) in lieu of importing a profile. (Please note that I have not used Slic3r so the following is solely based on the link)
The key settings under General are
* Bed size\*: X = 305 mm; Y = 305 mm; and Z = 457 mm
* Print center\*\*: X = 152.5 mm; Y = 152.5 mm
* Extruders: 2
* Heated Bed: Checked
Under Extruder (each extruder should have its own settings so be sure to set up both)
* Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
* Extruder 2 offset: 30.9 mm (good job, OP on finding the email stating this)
* Everything from Retraction and on is up to what works best for you
There may be a set of setting for acceleration (there is in Ultimaker Cura) which is 3000 mm/s2 for most printers, I think. This is the max acceleration, not to be confused with acceleration settings when slicing the model.
The next set of settings, though outside of the Slic3r link, regards the filament. The diameter should be 1.75 mm and the nozzle temperature should be within the range of the filament (e.g. PLA should be set within 180-220 °C) and a heated bed set to 50-60 °C. These parameters are filament dependent and not printer dependent (other than diameter).
That should be the settings that a profile would set for you. Thankfully there's not too many.
---
```
*There is a wizard for this section that may make input easier, but here is the build volume.
**This setting may require whole numbers and may, in fact, not be a necessary setting at all.
```
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The configuration files were on a flash drive that came with the printer. That being said, here is the file that was located on my flash drive for Slic3r (denoted as deprecated on March 1, 2017).
This is for a Creatorbot Pro II.
<https://pastebin.com/j1dkSt8f>
Save it as Slic3r\_config.ini and import it in to Slic3r.
Good luck!
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/02/06 | 1,160 | 3,703 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, currently using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 with the default settings for a Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus. Right now when a print finishes, the bed retreats towards the back of the machine. I'd rather present the bed forward for easier part removal.
Here is my ending G-Code:
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way
M84 ;steppers off
G90 ;absolute positioning
```
It looks like I need to change that `G28` line third from the bottom, but I'm not sure what to change it to. I've not yet done any g-code manipulation of my own. I don't know what units it's using, and it looks like it still has relative positioning, so even then I don't know it's a good idea to just set it for the max size of the bed.
So how can I change this code to move the bed as I want?<issue_comment>username_1: You're correct that the G28 line should be changed. What I would do is the following:
```
M104 S0 ;extruder heater off
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more
G28 X0 ;move X to min endstop, so the head is out of the way
G90 ;absolute positioning
G1 Y200 ;Move bed forward
M84 ;steppers off
```
This way your X axis still gets homed after the Z bumps up and before Y moves to present the print.
G28 is the command to home the print head. Your current settings homes the X and Y axes. G1 is a linear movement. One caveat to this change in G-Code is that there needs to be a home command at the start of your prints since you're not homing afterwards anymore. (I believe most slicers default to a G28 at the start AND end of prints so it's not a major concern, but one to be wary of now just in case.)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Note that [this reference](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G28:_Move_to_Origin_.28Home.29) states that:
>
> Because the behavior of `G28` is unspecified, it is recommended **not** to automatically include `G28` in your **ending GCode**. On a Cartesian this will result in damaging the printed object. If you need to move the carriage at the completion of a print, use `G0` or `G1`.
>
>
>
So you need to use a [`G0` or `G1`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move) move.
When using Ultimaker Cura (like many other slicers), there is built in functionality known as [keywords](https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1131) with a complete list found [here](https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/blob/master/resources/definitions/fdmprinter.def.json).
The keyword `machine_depth` is the one that is of use to you, embed this in your end G-code in between curly brackets and it will expand to the bed size of your machine (replacing `G28 X0 Y0`):
`G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}`
For me this compiles to (e.g. for my coreXY printer):
`G1 X0 Y300`
To set the speed, just add the following command prior to the one above:
`G1 F2500`
Adding this line before the actual move ensures that the speed is constant, if `F2500` would have been included in the move command (like `G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} F2500`), this defines the end speed, it would start moving at the last speed value prior to the move.
This results in adding the following lines in your endscript:
```
G1 F2500
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth}
```
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/07 | 1,938 | 7,100 | <issue_start>username_0: Sadly, I am not able to "repair" my 3D printer. Every time, I want to print something that takes a bit longer to print, the extrusion stops at some point during the print (the first few layers are great), no under-extrusion whatsoever before that critical point.
I already tried temperature variation (185-220 °C) with about 5 different brands of 1.75 mm PLA.
I tried printing without *any* retraction, but failed (I also experimented with flow rate a lot and calculated the perfect percentage etc.)
Everytime a print fails, it is a nightmare to remove the PLA filament from my Bowden tube (because it expanded near the nozzle and is stuck in the Bowden tube). I have to pull with so much force, that I already cut myself several times because I slipped off my pliers.
As I know for sure (I already wasted almost 1kg of PLA for my testing) the problem is heat creep = heat travelling from the heat block to the PLA above because the heat break or fan seem to be broken.
So my question is: "Will it be enough to buy a new cooling fan (as the standard fan doesnt seem to be powerful enough)?"
*I have to add that I already bought the original hotend long time ago and I tried printing with the "fan of the first hotend" and with the "fan of the second hotend" (the fan that blows air towards the cold end) so that might not be the problem.*
Or do I need a totally new hotend? (with heatbreak etc.)
My printer is a Creality CR 10, and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 3.6.
Or is it enough to buy a new heating block + heat break? (I don't know if the cooling fan is the problem or the heat break).<issue_comment>username_1: To fight heat creep, you must understand why this is happening.
Heat creeps up the hotend assembly (into the cold end) as a result of incorrect settings or hardware setup causing the filament to prematurely soften and swell.
It is important to reduce the heat travelling upwards in the first place rather than fighting the result. Too high print temperatures are an obvious culprit, but also print speed and retraction length are important. These need to be dialed in in perfect harmony.
Even when you buy a complete new hotend or parts for the hotend, incorrect settings may lead to the same results. It is known that all-metal hotends (due to the lacking of a thermal barrier PTFE liner in the heat break shielding the filament of excessive heat input) are more susceptible to encounter heat creep and should generally be avoided by less experienced makers.
Whether or not you should buy new parts depends on the current extruder, your ability to fix it (and the willingness to put in more effort to try) and the knowledge to install new parts and find the correct settings for optimal printing. There is no unambiguous answer to this question.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I resorted to google to find a candidate image which might be similar to your hotend.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7Dke.png)
Now, it is safe to assume that a like-for-like replacement will not improve matters significantly. It is also a good assumption that the performance gap which you need to close is small. Presumably you know how much time you need to wait for the creep to manifest itself so are part way along to being able to perform some heat flow calculations.
The mass of the cold-end here is small, and there is maybe next to no additional metal on the cold side (compared with direct drive, where the servo acts as thermal damping).
You ought to be able to perform static testing - a thermocouple thermometer should be cheaper than running a spool of filament, and all you are interested in is the temperature rise at the hot side of the cold end after 'time to fail'. If you can achieve a halfing of this rise, you're on the way to achieving a 4x longer print run (or better). If you test with zero filament flow, you should see a worst-case result since there is no cold material flow into the cold end.
The one obvious improvement to make with the specimen above which I found on Amazon would be to duct the fan, so airflow is forced past the fins. A side benefit will be reduced cooling of the hotend.
A further improvement, if there are any metal parts in the carriage, would be to remove the anodizing and use thermal transfer grease to increase the effective heatsink size (assuming that the fan also provides airflow over this metalwork.
You might find a larger cold end heatsink (more air surface area over the fins), that might be a worthwhile improvement - but it depends on the mechanical constraints of your printer.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Cooling the hot-end heat sink may be the key. My first step would be to try ducting so the all the air from the fan flows through the fins of the heatsink. To keep it easy and be a quick experiment, use cardboard (or business cards) and tape. Check the controls to be sure the fan is running at full power. You should feel air passing theough the fins. You can not cool it too much.
For cleaning out pla from tubes, nozzles, and hot ends, I use a hot-air heat gun.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: There is a different, much simpler possible answer, that I see posted nowhere, and after changing many many things on my setup I have finally figured out....
Clean the built-up dust off your heatsink and fan.
Undo the 2 screws and clean the dust off.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I have a cheap Chinese all-metal CR-10 hotend. I used to have a lot of heat creep, but after I setup my only 30x30 mm fan as a part fan to be 100 % at all times to cool the heat sink and retract 10 cm of filament after finishing the print, the heat creep went away.
You can add this G-code after finishing the print to retract 10 cm of filament:`G1 E-100 F1200`, so it prevents the filament to cool down and expand inside the heat sink.
Another good way is setting up a fan to be up all the time to cool the heat sink. Since I don't have a heated bed and have a single fan, I've wired my fan to D8 pin (for RAMPS 1.6), then setup Marlin:
`#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFF` at `Configuration.h`
Make sure `src/pins/linux/pins_RAMPS_LINUX.h` has:
```
#elif ENABLED(IS_RAMPS_EFF) // Hotend, Fan, Fan
#define FAN_PIN RAMPS_D9_PIN
#define FAN1_PIN RAMPS_D8_PIN
```
At `Configuration_adv.h`:
```
#define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN FAN1_PIN
...
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 50
#define EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255 // 255 == full speed
#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE 30
#define CHAMBER_AUTO_FAN_SPEED 255
```
This means that your extruder 0 will have a fan connected at D8 pin running 100 % after it hits 50 °C all the time, thus helping with the heat creep issue.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: If it's a printer stock, no modifications, obviously you don't need to change the hot end, Creality did not release a printer without testing it. At least, no such extreme issues can be expected.
Check the fan power, wear, and settings.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/09 | 654 | 2,573 | <issue_start>username_0: Using CuraEngine with my Ender 3, I'm getting what I'd call inconsistent inner and outer dimensions - for example, a nominally 3 mm peg is significantly larger than a 3 mm hole, and it takes dimensions something like 2.9 mm for the peg and 3.1 mm for the hole to get them to fit. Is this level of error normal? Is it caused by overextrusion, or does CuraEngine run its paths along the curve of the slice rather than offset by approximately half the nozzle width inside the sliced region? The magnitude of the error being almost exactly 0.2 mm, which is half of the 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, makes me wonder if it's the latter.<issue_comment>username_1: Filament expands slightly as it is extruded. Also, the width of the extrusion depends on the volume of plastic extruded (not the nozzle size), as well as the amount that it is "squidged" down. Some slicers (e.g. Simplify3D) allow you to specify the width of the extrusion that you desire, but I'm not sure if Cura does this. You can fine tune the width of extrusions by adjusting the flow rate. Note that apertures get larger as nozzles wear out, but this should not affect the width of the extrusion very much since the determining factor is volumetric flow rate.
I would say that if you are getting a dimensional accuracy of +/- 0.1mm, you are doing pretty well. If you want to improve on this, you will need to calibrate your extruder and also monitor closely the average diameter of the filament that you are using. I have included a link to an external article, since doing this is beyond the scope of my answer. However, I doubt if it is possible to get push-fit accuracy with FDM printing without fudging the dimensions of the objects that you want to print.
[3D Hubs: How to calibrate, tune and fine tune your printer and filament](https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/howto-calibrate-tune-and-fine-tune-your-printer-and-filament/5695)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Cura does correctly account for line extrusion widths wheen positioning the lines, and attempting to fix this with negative `xy_offset` was a mistake that led to lots of problems: in some cases, it completely eliminated tiny components of the model and left gaps in layers. At some point after asking this question, I did a new test with 8mm peg and hole, and I was actually able to force the 8mm peg into the hole (but not remove it) using tools, without cracking the parts, so I think past tiny sizes where dimensional accuracy is very difficult to achieve, everything is just about right.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/09 | 526 | 1,992 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been trying to find a 3D printer filament which would not release any chemicals if in contact with heated water for a substantial amount of time. So far, I've easily ruled out both PLA and ABS, as they're not considered food safe from what I can find. I have found PETG filament, which seems to be food safe.
My question is: "Is there's anything special you'd have to do to make sure the print is food safe, or as in my case, to make sure it's safe for usage in a mug?".
I will be using a steel extruder as brass ones may contain lead.<issue_comment>username_1: Many manufactures list their filaments as being food safe, but I would not treat this as "gospel truth". Apparently, the FDA considers PETG to be safe for food contact, but they are probably thinking about injection-moulded and vacuum-formed parts. Unfortunately, an initial search of the FDA's website did not yield any definitive information.
Even if a particular filament is genuinely food safe, that does not mean that a 3D-printed part made from it will be food safe, since there will be an abundance of nooks and crannies where bacteria can lodge and reproduce. You would have to sterilise a utensil before and after every use to be absolutely safe.
Anyway, good luck with making a water-tight mug with an FDM printer. You will probably have to seal it to make it water-tight, and then it will be the food-safety of the sealant that you will need to worry about. I would give it a miss, if I were you (at least, for other people's use). Items intended for one-time use would be OK, I suppose.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As far as PET-based filaments go, most of them are FDA approved. So yes, "food safe". It's the process of 3D printing that ruins that. all the little layers trap just about everything and are hard to clean. If you wanted to boil your part, that might work, but you'd be better off buying a food-safe coating spray for your parts.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/10 | 1,367 | 4,727 | <issue_start>username_0: So yesterday I got my power supply in the mail and I thought, let's check it out!
I put all the wires in correctly (as shown in this YouTube video, [Anet A8 power supply unit fuse blown](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8GhVKG2Nno), I just searched really quickly, this person has the same problem as me) and "BANG", it blew.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kBCjk.png "Image from YouTube video")
Luckily the only thing broken on it is the fuse, for which I can get a new one, but my main question is .. why? why did it blow out? Did I wire it up wrong? The 12 V output goes to a RAMPS 1.4 board which is working correctly.
It worked the first time I plugged it in; the little green light went on. The second time a nice "big bang". When I tested it the first time, I didn't add the 12 V wires to the RAMPS board yet. When I did, the fuse of the PSU blew out.
The board is a RepRap RAMPS 1.4, which works fine when connected via USB to laptop.
Upon closer inspection I found a burned out resistor in the circuit of the power supply, maybe this caused the bang?
### BIG update!
I opened it up and flipped the board, and noticed that there was a big ol' blob of tin connected to one of the pins I connected my wires to. I am very sure that this blob shouldn't connect to that pin at all, hence shorting my board.
Is this the cause?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lGGSF.jpg "Close up of PCB")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lKdWI.jpg "Close up of PCB - Highlighted potential short circuit")
Here is a link to the webpage I bought it from: [Anet® 12 V 20 A 240 W Power Supply Dual-input Centralized Power Monitoring For 3D Printer](https://m.banggood.com/nl/12V-20A-240W-Anet-Power-Supply-Dual-input-Centralized-Power-Monitoring-For-3D-Printer-p-1108988.html)
Here is how I wired it up at the PSU side:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHZxm.png "Power supply connections")
At the RAMPS side:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Od4en.jpg "RAMPS board connections")
This shows the internals of the PSU, it clearly shows burn marks:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EuSfm.jpg "Overview of the failed electronic component in the PSU")<issue_comment>username_1: You need to closely look at how to connect to the output connectors. In this case it appears that you have wired it correctly according to the stamped in markings above the connectors. You have chosen not to connect the earth, this is strongly advised.
Did you check if the power switch matches the voltage of your country? If you are in Europe the switch should be set to 230 V, not 115 V (which is used in America).
E.g. for the following power supply you see such a switch on the side:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cIUcA.png)
If a PSU is connected without load and works, and short circuits when externals are connected there are a few options:
* there is a short in the connected printer board,
* the load that the board takes is too large for the PSU,
* the PSU cannot deliver the load,
* the PSU was faulty to begin with.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: ### Unless you know what you're doing, do not remove the covers from a PSU. The components can store a lethal charge long after power is removed, even if the fuse is blown.
My guess is something loose (now vapourised) in the PSU. Electronics have a tendancy of failing either quite soon after manufacture, or lasting reasonably well. This is described with the [Bathtub Curve](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bathtub_curve).
Looking at the failure, there was a significant short circuit somewhere - quite likely within the PSU itself. This doesn't mean you can be sure that the RAMPS board survived, but it has a reasonable chance of not being harmed.
There is no significant chance of the PSU failing like that simply due to an excessive load in its output - unless it was overloaded for a significant period of time. Generally these PSUs will have some degree of overload protection even if they are not explicitly designed to survive an overload.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/02/10 | 823 | 3,301 | <issue_start>username_0: As part of a larger project, i'm trying to print a translucent green dome. I set it up as follows:
* In Blender, create an icosphere of the maximum allowed complexity. Cut it in half and throw away one of the hemispheres.
* Duplicate the hemisphere. Move the second one down slightly and use Subtract, to hollow it out. Clean up the vertex garbage left behind.
* Export the model. Import it in the slicer, scale to the proper size, and export as gcode.
* Print the model with [translucent green filament](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ZB48IZE) at 100% solid infill.
I ended up with a beautifully rounded dome that doesn't feel at all like a polyhedron, so that worked out fine. The only problem is, it's solid green. The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness, and the fact that my "solid" print is actually made up of thousands of tiny strings pressed up against each other probably doesn't help.
I tried reprinting it in Spiral Vase mode, and while the print turned out to be transparent, it was also extremely thin and fragile, and it failed anyway because of lack of support once the dome's angle got bad enough.
I've been trying to think of how to print this properly, but nothing I think of will work:
* Scaling can make the walls thinner, but only by reducing the size of the model. Its basic dimensions need to remain unchanged.
* Doing the same trick again that I used to create the dome, subtracting a copy of itself moved down slightly, would lead to non-uniform thickness in the model. (Which I already have some of. But when the thickness is directly correlated to the degree of transparency, this is problematic.)
Does anyone know of any tricks I can use to get it to come out properly? For reference, I'm using Blender as my 3D software, IdeaMaker as my slicer, and printing on a Raise3D N2 Plus printer.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> The filament seems to lose its translucency past a certain thickness
>
>
>
That's exactly the point. Think of translucency as a percentage of light being allowed through, per amount of material. 2x the material means 1/2 the light. You need either less material (which becomes brittle as you saw), or a more translucent material. I think it has little to do with the model itself.
Also - check out OnShape. One of the features it has is a "shell" function, that does what you're describing - takes a single 3D feature and creates a shell out of it of consistent thickness.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: For the modeling, I suggest to change to a proper CAD software, design a half sidecut and create the model by rotating it around Z. That way you'd create an evenly thick part.
As for loosing transparency, that has several reasons:
* light loss into printed materials is mainly due to air being captured in the model. To get the air out as much as possible and generate an almost entirely transparent print, I have printed some lens-tests with extra heat and deliberately overextruding to fill all the cavities and voids.
* light loss in materials is also dependant on the material factor and thickness.
If you go away from FDM and look into resin-based SLA/DLP systems, you can get almost fully transparent prints with very low colored resins.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/11 | 685 | 2,577 | <issue_start>username_0: I have just built my first 3D printer, and I am having some problems. It is a Cartesian based 3D printer, using Marlin firmware and Pronterface software. My problem is homing the 3D printer. I do not have a probe to calibrate the z offset but I have all 6 endstops. The problem is that the "ZMIN" endstop isn't precise enough and my hotend is always either too far from or too close to the heatbed. Is there a way to manually set the home position, so when I start the printer, It just starts printing and it doesn't have to home again; Or maybe some other way to set the correct offset. It would also be helpful if I could use just the "ZMAX" plug, and then manually set the minimum Z position using a piece of paper.<issue_comment>username_1: It is possible to "home a printer" without having endstops, technically, you don't **require** endstops, but it makes your job a lot easier if you want to print something!
Basically, when you don't have endstops or limit switches, you need to define where the head of the printer is located. E.g. you can set the nozzle at [0, 0, 0] (origin in [x, y, z]) and add the command [`G92`](https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G92:_Set_Position) to your print G-code file that it is at that position using `G92 X0 Y0 Z0` (or any other location you use, e.g. you could engineer a parking position and refer to that position instead, note that you also need to write the movement commands to get out of that location safely). Don't forget to remove the homing command from your start code in your slicer, replace `G28` with the `G92` command with appropriate X, Y and Z values.
Regarding the inaccurate repetitive accuracy of your Z min endstop, it might be worth to find out why this is causing such a spread in triggering, maybe you need to invest in some new endstop switches or look more closely to the heated bed attachment to the frame.
Using Z max as a reference point is e.g. used by Ultimaker machines. The heated platform lowers to Z max; the printer knows from calibration and geometry how far it needs to rise to get to Z=0.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can reconfigure marlin to use the MAXZ endstop instead of MINZ in Configuration.h, and then reflash it to your printer.
<https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L877>
Now this is highly unusual, as most printers only have MIN endstops. If you post a pic of your faulty MINZ endstop, we can probably figure out how you could fix it. Zipties come to mind as a likely solution.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/11 | 1,048 | 3,464 | <issue_start>username_0: My i3 MK3 is printing very well for solid parts of an object, but it messes up with infill.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dc5BL.jpg)
As you can see in the image, the infill is broken into pieces and bends to that the surface becomes rough and the nozzle touches it next time it moves there, which probably does not make things better.
I've read the [Prusa problem page](https://www.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints), where they suggest three solutions:
* change infill type
* flexible filament (I'm using PETG, so this does not apply)
* lower printing speed
I'm printing with 20% infill and I believe that this worked before at the same speed, so I'm tempted to say that both remaining options are options, but it should work without them.
It also seems to me as if the infill is thinner that ordinary walls. Is the extrusion speed lower in case of infill? Is there a way of changing the extrusion speed for infill?
Side note: my printer always tells me to upgrade to the latest firmware 3.5.1. Since I have just received the printer back from a warranty repair after the last firmware upgrade, I don't want to upgrade the firmware. Could the issue be related to firmware?
Infos requested from comments:
I'm basically using the Slic3r default settings for PETG. The only thing I adjusted is the temperature, since I'm using HDGlass PETG and there was a recommended temperature written on the spool. Relevant settings seem to be
* Filament settings
+ fan speed min 30 % max 50 %
+ bridges fan speed 50 %
+ enable fan below 20 s
+ slow down below 20 s
+ min print speed 15 mm/s
* Speed settings
+ Perimenters 45 mm/s
+ Small perimeters 25 mm/s
+ External perimeters 35 mm/s
+ Infill 200 mm/s
+ Solid infill 200 mm/s
+ Top solid infill 50 mm/s<issue_comment>username_1: From your comments can be read that you print infill at 200 mm/s.
Know that 200 mm/s is ridiculously fast (like high travelling speed), close to the limits of printing on certain machines ([for an AtMega](/a/8108))! It is hard for the filament to keep up at this speed. A value of 60 mm/s would be a good value to start experimenting. Your infill is not rough, it just failed printing. I have printed kilometers of PETG, normal print speeds for my PETG are recommended at 30-50 mm/s by my manufacturer; I get good results at 50-60 mm/s. On my Ultimaker 3, 70 mm/s is also feasible.
---
*Note that the filament you use seems to have rather [low printing temperatures](https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/hdglass-clear-238) (195-225 °C) as opposed to the PETG filament (co-polymer) I'm used to. The manufacturer does not specify advised print speeds (other than "high", but what defines "high"?), but [this user posted](https://mevade.wordpress.com/2015/08/22/1-75mm-hdglass/) some of his print settings for this material. The overall speed of 60 mm/s seems to support lower than 200 mm/s print speeds.*
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have dealt with this on infill as well on multiple MK3s.
However, it was not the speed itself, but the hot end having difficulty extruding enough to keep up with the infill.
Some things to try:
* Raise hot end temperature 5 degrees (melt filament faster)
* Lower infill speed, it will not affect your overall print time very much (surprisingly)
* A combination of the two above.
Good luck!
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/12 | 2,563 | 9,412 | <issue_start>username_0: Fairly long winded, but hopefully makes sense;
I understand that G-code is executed line-by-line, and in the main printing phase each instruction is effectively go to location XY (assuming staying within the layer) at a set speed with a set extrusion amount (not rate, as far as I can tell).
Imagine you were printing a single road width, say 10 mm long. If the single instruction says to move that 10 mm at a set speed and extrude 10mm of material (which is, I guess, not 10mm of filament), with infinite acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle and extruder gears, then a linear amount of material would be extruded per unit length along the 10 mm. However, given that there is some acceleration and deceleration, that extrusion must be non-linear.
My questions are as follows;
- Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate?
- Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it?
- Is this effect embraced somehow?
- Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out?
-Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the middle), and some not (say at each end)?<issue_comment>username_1: No
==
G-code is written line separated, starting with one command what to do, then who does it with what factors. For example `G1 X10 F100 E10` says this:
* `G1` Move...
* `X10` The X axis by 10
* `F100` Use the factor to 100 units
* `E10` Also: the Extruder by 10
To my knowledge any repeated or invalid expression is simply ignored (or overwritten). So `G1 X10 F100 E10 F200` gets parsed as either `G1 X10 F100 E10` or `G1 X10 E10 F200`, depending on how your firmware interpreter is set up.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: My understanding is that the printer firmware will define the maximum acceleration and speeds for each axis (X, Y, Z, and E). When executing a line of g-code that involves more than one axis, the acceleration for each will be limited such that they all begin and end, including acceleration together.
During the start and end of a line, when the print nozzle is moving more slowly, the extruder will also move slowly. In the middle of the line, the extruder will move faster. The amount of material extruded per distance will be constant over the length of the line.
Another way to look at it - suppose you could accelerate quickly on X with a high top speed, but slowly on Y. A move only in the X direction could happen quickly. A move only in the Y direction would be slower. If you want to move at a 45-degree angle, you will need to slow down X so that it doesn't get ahead of Y.
If you did want to intentionally vary the amount of extrusion per distance during a line, you would need to break it into multiple segments with individual lines of g-code.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Let's see...
>
> Is it possible to counteract this within a single line of Gcode by having a variable extrusion rate?
>
>
>
**No,** it cannot. G Code executes line by line. If you have a line : G1 X10 F100 F200 F300
some parseres will accept the first (F100), some will only accept the last (F300)
>
> Can the machine do so regardless of the instructions given to it?
>
>
>
If you program a **custom** G code parser to do so, you still couldn't because there is no time scale to which you would want the effect to apply. To do this you would have to introduce a new letter to your parser (let's call it K), which you could use to instruct the machine to scale the extrusion accordingly (e.g. G1 X10 F100 K0.24). The machine would then know to scale the F parameter by 0.24 over the course of the movement.
>
> Is this effect embraced somehow?
>
>
>
Uhm... no?
>
> Does the need to accelerate both the nozzle position and filament effectively cancel out?
>
>
>
Cancel out how? The filament stepper as well as the gantry steppers are step synchronized so that they operate at the correct feedrate, at all times.
>
> Would/could you aim instead to split a single straight line of
> filament into multiple lines of G-code, some extruding (say in the
> middle), and some not (say at each end)?
>
>
>
**Absolutely not.** Each line of gcode has to be completed by the machine before any other line can be considered. You can't have one motion governed by multiple lines of g-code, because there will be not way to control the timing of the execution of the lines.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: While username_1 directly answers the G-Code part of your question, my answer offers an alternative if you use Marlin. RepRap has a similar feature called pressure advance, but this answer is focusing on Marlin's feature.
According to [Marlin](http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html):
>
> Under default conditions, extruder axis movement is treated in the same way as the XYZ linear axes. The extruder motor moves in linear proportion to all the other motors, maintaining exactly the same acceleration profile and start/stop points. But an extruder is not a linear system, so this approach leads, most obviously, to extra material being extruded at the end of each linear movement.
>
>
>
In short, corners result in being rounded instead of sharp due to the constant extrusion when laying down a line. One can mitigate this by changing the flow, though this might affect straight lines in other parts of the print, namely under extruding them. Marlin's answer to this is linear advance.
With linear advance, the extrusion rate changes as the print head speed changes. When the print head moves faster, more plastic has to be pushed out to lay a consistent line and as soon as the head slows down, the extrusion rate slows down to compensate. The print should then have a consistent line. This is all done using a new factor called k. From [Marlin](http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html#special-notes-for-v1.5):
>
> K is now a meaningful value with the unit [mm of filament compression needed per 1mm/s extrusion speed] or [mm/mm/s].
>
>
>
One can determine the k value for their printer using Marlin's [k calibration tool](http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html) which prints out multiple straight lines and instructs the printer to print the start of each line slowly, then print fast, and end the line slow again. Each line has a different k value and the user chooses the k value from the line that is most consistent.
Some caveats
------------
Bowden style extruders require larger k values which, even then, linear advancing may not work. This is due to the bowden tube itself and the material between the extruder motor and the hot end. This is along the same issue as trying to print flexible plastics with a bowden extruder. While linear advance is better suited for direct drives, it's not impossible to use it on a bowden.
Setting up linear advance requires an extra set of tuning. While this primarily means tuning the k value, print speeds may need adjusting (potentially allowing for faster speeds even).
Older linear advance version, at least on Marlin, had the extruder motor a lot more active. Some people report that printing is noticeably noisier. This feature might also add an extra load to the CPU. These issues should not be a problem anymore, as of v1.5, but YMMV.
One needs to change the firmware/G-Code so that each print can use linear advance. If the printer is only using one material the firmware can be changed. However, if multiple materials will be used within the printer's lifetime, the G-Code will have to include the following command at the end of the start script ( more found [here](http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html#adding-the-k-factor-to-the-g-code-start-script)). This k value will be different for each material. An example of the command is as follows:
```
M900 K75 ; Set k-factor for PLA
```
The link also recommends setting the k factor value to 0 when turning the feature on in the firmware. This essentially disables the hard-coded value in the firmware.
Finally, slicer settings like pressure advance, Coast at end, extra restart length after retract should be disabled when using linear advance as they do a similar operation. On the flip side, these settings may work for your printer so you may not need to even use linear advance.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: **Not on one line, but...**
On Hyrel systems, you *can, manually*, split one long move into several smaller moves, each with a different extrusion rate.
For example, let's start at X100 Y100, and move to X100 Y200. On a Hyrel, this would look like this (with an inherited F rate if not specified):
```
G1 X100 Y200 E1
```
We could change this by specifying our Feed Rate Multiplier:
```
M221 S0.9 ; set feed rate multiplier to 90%
G1 X100 Y110 E1 ; print 10mm
M221 S0.95 ; set feed rate multiplier to 95%
G1 X100 Y120 E1 ; print 10mm
M221 S1 ; set feed rate multiplier to 100%
G1 X100 Y130 E1 ; print 10mm
M221 S1.05 ; set feed rate multiplier to 105%
...
```
We can also vary all of the parameters between moves, including print speed, acceleration, deceleration, cooling, and UV curing.
And we do use "linear advance" as well, so extrusion ramps up with travel speed.
Note: I work for Hyrel.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/12 | 1,548 | 4,756 | <issue_start>username_0: I don't understand what's wrong with my G-code. I have set the printing temperature to 195 °C but when I try to print, the target temperature is always 0 °C and printing never starts.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hkB6E.jpg)
I have tried changing material preset to different PLA profiles but that didn't help at all.
G-code:
```
;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:1736
;Filament used: 0.676205m
;Layer height: 0.1
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1
T0
M190 S50
M104 S195
M109 S195
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Print0ng...
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:96
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F600 X90.425 Y93.152 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
G1 F1500 E6.5
...
```
In addition, the extruder and heat sensor are working. An older G-code file correctly sets 200 °C as the target temperature for the extruder.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nQhqQ.jpg)
This G-code prints just fine
```
;FLAVOR:RepRap
;TIME:4628
;Filament used: 1.44191m
;Layer height: 0.15
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.4.1
T0
M190 S60
M104 S200
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
M117 Print0ng...
M83 ;relative extrusion mode
G1 F1500 E-6.5
;LAYER_COUNT:80
;LAYER:0
M107
G0 F4800 X72.96 Y99.484 Z0.3
;TYPE:SKIRT
---
```
---
*Note, I have never modified the firmware or changed anything except what I can change with the frontpanel.*<issue_comment>username_1: There is nothing wrong with the G-code, `M109 S195` sets and waits for the temperature to reach the set point. There must be a different reason, other than G-code, why the temperature is not set correctly.
After updating your question by adding another G-code script, the conclusion is that there is nothing wrong with the G-code itself. The problem is that the printer cannot set the 195 °C temperature.
Could it be that the minimum temperature is 200 °C and that it doesn't set a temperature lower than the minimum value?
If you are comfortable enough to flash a new firmware **(which you should always do with an Anet A8 as it has no [thermal runaway protection](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection))** you could try to see if this is a firmware problem.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Double check the physical connection to the heating element and the thermistor that go in the hot end. Those wires and crimps aren't great. I had one fail on me out of the box with my A8. Re-crimping did the trick.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Be sure that you are using the version of Cura (14.07) that comes on the SD card provided with the printer. I ran into this same thing after updating Cura, largely because it prompts you to when it starts.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: You don't mention printing via a connected computer over USB, so I assume you're printing from an SD card. I think the most likely cause of your problem is a corrupted filesystem on the SD card, or bad SD card. I've had many occasions where my printer (Ender 3 with Marlin, stock and upgraded to 2.0) fails to see files or correctly read files despite them being readable when the SD card is put in a PC; I suspect the microcontroller library implementations of FAT filesystem reading are less tolerant of errors than real filesystem drivers on Windows, Linux, etc.
Try backing up all the files you care about on the SD card, reformatting it, and repopulting it with known-good files and see if the problem goes away.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: I got the same problem today and after a lot of troubleshooting (following the answers here) I found out that the **issue was the connection to the hotbed**. After I clean out the connection to the hotbed the printer started working as usual. The debugging logic was that **the printer heats up the hotbed *before* setting the extruder temperature**.
Looking to your LCD the issue seems to be the same, since 33 degrees is a normal ambient temperature.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/12 | 1,134 | 4,133 | <issue_start>username_0: Kicked off the second long print in a series (printing Lack enclosure components). First 10 hour print was flawless. Started this one, saw the first layer laid down well, went to bed. Woke up to this (you can see the successful prints in the background):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYYcU.jpg)
The whole heater block and nozzle is entombed in PLA. The leads to the heater and the thermistor are too. I'm assuming there's no solvent for this, and I'm better off just buying a new hot end.
Thoughts?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes
---
I had a somewhat similar clog once, and I could fix it back up. However, it is a lot of work.
Hobbyist Way
------------
### Step 1: heat
As long as the heater cartridge is still ok, just fire up the printer, move up the print head by 50 mm and wait some two or three minutes till the goop is warmed enough at the core to melt. Set the hot end to 200 °C and no cooling fan.
### Step 2: rough clean
Check the cables for your hot end and thermistor as long as the plastic has not yet softened up around them and especially surrounding the thermistor: When the glob is removed in one swoop, you might tear the lines! It's better to use a sculpting tool or exacto-blade on the softening plastic and make an opening that allows the glob to be pulled away safely with minimal pull on the cabling.
When the blob has softened enough, you can just pull at the outer of the blob to pull it down. Use a tool like pliers and pull off the worst that still sticks to the hotend. Pulling the blob free can take a while, so be patient and careful.
If you have a soldering iron, you can use that as a heated scraper from the outside and skip on heating from the inside. If you have no temperature control (as if your thermosensor is shot) outside heat is the only safe way.
### Step 3: Cool down
After having made a rough clean up from the outside, let it cool down so you can dismantle it.
### Step 4: dismantle and clean the hotend.
This is actually rather simple, and I will point [to a question where I outlined that for a broken thermistor cartridge](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7920/heatercartridge-bolt-stuck/7923#7923). You have a working thermosensor at least, so less problems on that front.
Shortcut
--------
If you have a hot air gun for hot air soldering, you can be much faster! Skip step 1 to 3, dismantle the hotend and go straight to Step 4, dismantling it and cleaning it out of the machine with the hot air soldering tool as a heat source. Heat and scrape away, and get out the thermosensor and thermosensor as soon as possible to prevent destroying them.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Careful application of a hot air gun, along with mechanical prodding (pliers, pokey sharp stick tool) will soften the PLA. It will soften on the outside but the heat transfers inward rather easily and quickly and is retained for some time.
When heating and poking, force the mass downwards and then away from the heater block. If the outside becomes liquid, too much heat is being applied and may damage other components.
An SMT soldering station with adjustable temperature and airflow rates would be ideal, but a garden-variety hot air gun with a concentrating tip could be used effectively.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If you can remove the hot-end it is easier. If not, carefully use hot air to soften (not melt) the PLA so you can more easily pull away chunks.
When the hot-end is removed from the other plastic parts, you can get more aggressive with hot air. BUT, be careful of the thermistor and heater wires. They are fragile, and can easily be broken or pulled out of their devices.
Heat and patience is the key. If you do break a heater or thermister, they are pretty easy to replace. Depending on the hot-end, the heater and/or the thermister may be locked in place by a set screw. That set-screw is probably locked in place by plastic, so use the hot-air gun to melt that plastic and allow you to back out the set-screw.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/13 | 360 | 1,461 | <issue_start>username_0: 
I have only been able to get my prints this far. They just can’t stop skipping pulling material up towards the nozzle which then melts pulls of another random bit. At first I thought it was motor skipping, so I strengthened the spring, but even after that and calibrating the bed, I couldn’t figure out exactly how to fix this issue. Hopefully someone has some idea what is wrong.<issue_comment>username_1: So, contrary to what people were saying, my problem came from my spring that controlled filament flow. There was too much tension and it caused motor skipping. I did get rid of the overlap with the blue tape, but otherwise I had to clamp down my spring and that fixed the issue.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I would get rid of the blue tape and go with glass and hairspray. Glass gives you more of a flat surface. You are printing with the aluminum build plate which over time c
an warp. The glass with give you a much flatter and level surface to print om. Blue Tape is actually not a great surface to print on. Hairspray using a chemical compound that actually is related to a PLA makeup. This compound in Aquanet Hairspray will bond to the PLA and release when cold. Using both the glass and hairspray will give you and even build plate and a clean smooth surface that it will stick to better than blue tape.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/13 | 699 | 2,254 | <issue_start>username_0: Octoprint warns me that the objects do not fit into the print volume. I noticed that this happens after a power-off cycle. Since I was overly anxious until today, I always uploaded the GCode file again and it didn't complain any more.
Of course, always uploading the files again is also error prone. So today I gave it a try and simply started to print the object. As far as I can tell, it prints nicely.
>
> Image: Octoprint saying something like "Object does not fit into print volume" in German
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NiFh.png)
**Is this a known bug in OctoPrint? Are my files really damaged after a power off cycle?**
The values (0.00, -3.00, 0.00) seem to be constant in this error message, no matter what object I want to print.
I'm using OctoPrint in the PrusaPrint flavor and I'm running version 1.3.10 (hopefully a recent version, since I usually update). I generate the G-Code with Slic3r.<issue_comment>username_1: That's the purging that Slic3r PE adds, the broad line of filament at the edge of the sheet. That is outside the official print volume, which triggers this error.
The G-Code generated by Slic3r PE at the start of the file contains the following lines:
```
G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area
G92 E0.0
G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line
M73 Q0 S174
M73 P0 R173
G1 X100.0 E12.5 F1000.0 ; intro line
G92 E0.0
```
You can see that it explicitly goes to -3 on the Y axis, and then extrudes two times on a line along the X axis.
The model size detection is labeled as beta in the settings dialog. It's not very reliable at detecting stuff like this purging line outside the boundaries.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [This answer](/a/8267) is correct, it's normal for Prusa printers to purge at -3 mm on the Y axis.
This answer is an addition that describes how to get rid of the error.
1. Open Octoprint web UI
2. Go to `Settings` -> `Printer Profiles`
3. Find active profile, click on the pen icon next to it (`Edit Profile`)
4. Go to `Print bed and build volume`
5. Tick `Custom bounding box`
6. Enter -3 to `Y Coordinates` `Min` input box
7. Hit `Confirm`
Upvotes: 3 |
2019/02/13 | 989 | 3,422 | <issue_start>username_0: Flsun 3D Cube; Marlin 1.1.1; main board: Makerbase MKS Gen\_L V1.0; running from either Repetier or OctoPrint.
I was recently obliged to replace the main board when it stopped powering the heated bed. I got the new main board - same make, version, etc - got everything setup just as it was before, but the bed still doesn't heat. Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts, whether using G-code from the terminal (in both Repetier and Octoprint), G-code in the print file, or the control panel on the front of the printer. The thermistor works: if I shine a heat lamp on the bed, it registers the temp change.
Bad board? Something in the Merlin config I missed? Is the board smart enough to not power it on if the bed heater itself is bad?<issue_comment>username_1: Considering:
>
> Multimeter shows zero across the board's heat bed contacts
>
>
>
this implies that
* If you measured **resistance**, the heated bed has no resistance. Basically this implies that the bed has a short. This might be the reason why it is not working. If you would power it as such you create a short. Instead of replacing the board, you need to replace the heated bed. Typical values for a heated bed of about 200 x 200 mm are in the order of 1.2 Ω (measurements between 0.9 and 1.5 Ω are reasonable to be expected).
* If you measured **voltage**, the heated bed does not receive power for heating, or the power does not reach the bed (not turned on or broken wire?). It would then be wise to measure the resistance (of the bed and the wires). If the resistance is in the order of about 1.2 Ω (see above) for the bed, you could try to connect the heated bed directly to the PSU to see if it gets warm, if so, please disconnect immediately to prevent damage. From this experiment you can find whether the heated bed is broken (or the cables), or that the board is not functioning correctly, this is, however, strange as you tried 2 boards. A possible suspect could be the MOSFET that schedules the powering of the heated bed if you use an external MOSFET board that it.
* If you measured **current**, then you found out that no power is delivered to the board, but you also might have broken your board in the process, as measuring current is a (close to) 0 Ω connection and has to be done *in line* of a circuit.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Since the bed was warm when you connected to 12 V that means the bed and the wiring are good. It sounds like your multimeter is not too accurate, with a reading of 0.5 Ω (or you measured accidentally some other circuit), but no worries.
Since both boards do not power the bed, it seems like it could be a firmware setting. To help with that, a look at your config file, and possibly the `pins_ramps.h` file can help.
As a first check, your `mks_gen_L.h` file should look like this;
```
#if HOTENDS > 2 || E_STEPPERS > 2
#error "MKS GEN L supports up to 2 hotends / E-steppers. Comment out this line to continue."
#endif
#define BOARD_NAME "MKS GEN L"
//
// Heaters / Fans
//
// Power outputs EFBF or EFBE
#define MOSFET_D_PIN 7
//
// CS Pins wired to avoid conflict with the LCD
// See https://www.thingiverse.com/asset:66604
//
#ifndef X_CS_PIN
#define X_CS_PIN 59
#endif
#ifndef Y_CS_PIN
#define Y_CS_PIN 63
#endif
#include "pins_RAMPS.h"
```
Now all you need to confirm is that your bed is hooked to D7.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/13 | 745 | 2,580 | <issue_start>username_0: When double-probing, sometimes the BLTouch will hit the bed before the z-axis goes down:
1. The BLTouch deploys
2. The bed goes up
3. The sensor triggers
4. The BLTouch stows
5. The BLTouch deploys and crashes the bed before the z-axis goes down for the second probe
It happens only on the second probe of double-probing (slow speed) - the bed can't move out of the way fast enough.
This happens in 2/16 probe points.
*Probe Accuracy Test result:*
* *Mean: 0.023075 mm*
* *Min: 0.018 mm*
* *Max: 0.027 mm*
* *Range: 0.008 mm*
* *Standard Deviation: 0.002584 mm*<issue_comment>username_1: This sounds like the firmware setting for your BLtouch is not set up properly. Look at the line in Config H where it deploys the BLtouch. make sure nothing is commented out and that the 2nd deploy is shown.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: First, make sure to check if stow, deploy and the trigger are working correctly.
Second, check the pins files to make sure you put it in the correct pins. Black and White probe pin might need to go to Z-min or probe pin depending on. Make sure to check that.
Third, add "BLTOUCH delay". It might be triggering too slow or too fast for the next one to react. So after the first trigger, there should be a time for it to "re-setup" for the second. But if there is no time to do that then it won't trigger.
To add examples: If you have SKR 1.4 Turbo, then use BLTouch probe pins (black and white) on the board. IT will NOT recognize. You have to use Z-min endstop pins. Reason for this?:
```
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
```
If this has been used, Z-min probe will use Z-min endstop pin instead of Z-min probe.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: In case someone still has this problem I have a solution for what happened in my case.
I am using a 3DTouch and I also encountered the same problem and it was solved by commenting `//#define BLTOUCH_HS_MODE`
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I solved the same issue.
I had the same problem, just send the G-code `M502` to your printer through Cura or whatever it is you use. The reason is that you already did an auto bed leveling and you more than likely send the G-code `M500` which saves your auto mesh data so that you don't have to auto home for every print.
So [`M502` restores everything to its factory settings](/q/11483) after you reset don't forget to send `M500` to save the default settings or else your printer will be fixed up until the next time you turn it on and you'll have to start all over again hope this helps.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/02/15 | 978 | 3,757 | <issue_start>username_0: What are the best settings for Ultimaker Cura to have support material that's easy to remove for my Anet A8. I have printed an object with two different spools of PLA (same manufacturer just different color). The black print was printed with 200 °C, the grey one with 210 °C both a flow of 100 %. Thee black print seems like it has a little over-extrusion while the grey print has some under-extrusion artifacts despite the higher printing temperature. The grey support was really hard to remove and looks super messy the black one not so much...
What would be better settings?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/biydn.jpg)
Could it be that the material is so much different despite same manufacturer? The black one seems to flow much better than the grey one. Both have suggested temperature of 210 °C
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s20fN.jpg)
BTW the thing is 33x25 mm in size. It's rather tiny that makes printing it somewhat awkward...
I have finished another print with a brim and a different support setting (Cross with 50 %) and at 195 °C and an infill rate of 100 %. The support came off much better, the under-extrusion is minimal on the layers however for some reason the top layer does get messed up with open spots and the little nob at the corner was just a a mere stringy stumb that fell off instantly and the walls of the holes came out spongy while the layers of the ring and the long side are smooth and fine...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rye9r.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: From the picture, I suggest printing with 200 °C, as the grey print lost its cohesion at a higher temperature.
Why higher = worse
------------------
A filament is a solid that turns into a highly viscous fluid under heating and the more you heat it, the less viscous it gets. However, it also has a very high surface tension, which means, that as it extrudes and if it is not pressed down immediately, then the filament goop will thin as the head moves, resulting in under extrusion and stringiness. Print temperatures from manufacturers have to be seen with a grain of salt, as the measurements are calibrated to their test printer, which is not your printer.
Support Structures
------------------
To get good support structures, the support needs to:
* have enough surface to not topple over
+ in case of thin towers, use a brim
* The density should be enough to carry but not enough to stick too well
+ I have had best experiences with 5 to 10% support
* don't support angles that don't need it
+ 45° is safe, 70° is on the very hard side. I go with 50 to 60° usually.
In a related manner, make sure that the `minimum layer time` is set to at about 5 to 10 seconds, which allows the single tip to cool down a little and get better prints
Print Geometry Analysis
-----------------------
The part you want to print is quite complicated with the different Z-heights to start at. It might be possible to increase printability by including "sacrifice blocks" of material about 1 or 2 layer heights below the print, pretty much including a support structure into the print design itself. This way the bottom might get better supported.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Cura has some settings for the support structure which may help. Somewhere in the full Preferences menu is a setting for "gap at top" or equivalent wording. If you increase that gap slightly, the support material will be less strongly bonded to the part. Be careful, since a huge gap could lead to bridging problems.
Upvotes: 3 |
2019/02/19 | 341 | 1,214 | <issue_start>username_0: For a while now, my AmazonBasics PETG filament has been working like a charm. Now, it is balling up on my nozzle. I've tried slowing it down, re-leveling the bed, etc. I don't want to go through the hassle of replacing my nozzle with a Micro-Swiss all metal 0.4 mm nozzle. I've tried the other extruder which I know works with PLA, but same results. I'm using a Flashforge Creator Pro(2016).<issue_comment>username_1: PETG does this. PETG is like glue when soft this is why when you level the bed you have to add an additional 0.1 mm distance for PETG. PETG should not be as close as PLA, but futher away. It will stick to the hotend so preferably change the hotend from brass to a nickle plated nozzle (e.g. Micro Swiss, PETG does not stick to that nozzle at all).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It could be that you're having issues now due to the filament absorbing moisture. I had a big problem with it doing that when I had waited for a few months after opening my filament. Dehydrated it using just my heated plate and a foil lined box over the top and it fixed it right up. If that's something you haven't tried yet perhaps that is what is causing you some grief.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/02/19 | 465 | 1,547 | <issue_start>username_0: First, I'm using Linux Mint 18.3 (Sylvia). Until now, I've been using OpenSCAD with the GUI and never experienced issues. Now I try to start OpenSCAD from the command line, but it always opens an empty file, even if a file with the specified name exists.
Since I have a rather big script, I'd like to generate the STL's via the CLI. Due to this error, I can not even do any tests for parameter passing.
What I'd like to do is to issue a command (flom the command line or in a shell script) that says "Set objectID to 1, render and export the result to stl".
Here is my M(N)WE:
```
// test.scad
objectID = 2;
if (objectID == 1)
difference(){
cylinder(d=20, h=50, center=true);
cylinder(d=16, h=50.2, center=true);
}
else if (objectID == 2)
difference(){
cube(50, center=true);
cube([35,35,70], center=true);
}
```
Any help will greatly be appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: You can specify variable values from command line using:
```
openscad ...\
... \
[ -D var=val [..] ] \
... \
... \
filename
```
See the [OpenSCAD Manual](https://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I could finally solve the issue. Calling `openscad` from command line with parameters does NOT work with the AppImage I used. It works fine with a "standard" installation, though.
Thanks for your support.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/21 | 289 | 1,099 | <issue_start>username_0: My model layers are printing much as I expect but the parts when removed from the plate are very soft and flexible and fail to harden any further in sunlight or UV lamplight. A tall or slender part will bend and distort under its own weight while printing. I am using LCD-T resin, I have increased time and reduced thicknesses and am now using 0.04 mm layers at 20 s and 255 brightness with no improvement.
Can anyone suggest what I need to change?<issue_comment>username_1: You can specify variable values from command line using:
```
openscad ...\
... \
[ -D var=val [..] ] \
... \
... \
filename
```
See the [OpenSCAD Manual](https://en.m.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_OpenSCAD_in_a_command_line_environment).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I could finally solve the issue. Calling `openscad` from command line with parameters does NOT work with the AppImage I used. It works fine with a "standard" installation, though.
Thanks for your support.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/23 | 945 | 3,366 | <issue_start>username_0: Here is an extreme example of notches caused by the printer. They go along all sides but are the strongest on the Y faces. They also happen quite randomly sometimes they are tiny sometimes they are strong.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VQ7Sr.jpg)
I have tightened the belts already and while that reduced the ghosting on the X face a lot, it did nothing on the Y and actually never helped with the notches. This test cube has notches and ripples too but not that strong (the skirting on the bottom of that cube is my fault I set the bed level a little too low).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJDG4.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/968jC.jpg)
All models have been sliced with Ultimaker Cura and printed on an Anet A8. Flow = 110 %, layer height of 0.1 mm for the first example and 0.2 mm for the cube, printing temperature = 195 °C, no change on jerking and acceleration from default settings. Cube size = 20x20x20 mm.
The printer has frame support <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959> but no other upgrades yet.<issue_comment>username_1: I see two problems with your printer: your filament seems to overheat in some areas, and you overextrude a little. My suspicion is, that your heating behavior is not well tuned and it overshoots the target temperature, leading to an overcooked filament, then the temperature drops below the temperature you need, leading to a wavy pattern and brown lines.
fixing
------
I suggest running a PID-tune cycle to get better heating behavior and then recalibrating the printer's extruder.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I noticed that thermistors provided with Chinese kits are not up to specs. Do yourself a favor and go to mouser or digikey and order a proper thermistor that is rated for the temperature range in question.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: While you may very well be having temperature issues, I see two other issues:
First, I think the "notches" are z-wobble. Z-wobble is often caused by bent z-axis threaded rods.
I have a very similar Geeetech I3 printer. A lot of my z-wobble was cleaned up by removing the threaded rods and making them more straight. You can find videos to help you do that, just search for "threaded rod straightening".
The other thing I did was decouple the nut on the threaded rod from the x-carriage assembly, allowing it to float in the X-Y plane as it pushes the x-carriage up. The x-carriage ought to be guided up by the smooth rods/bearings. Unfortunately, if the nut is fixed to the x-carriage, the bent threaded rods are strong enough to over-power the smooth rods/bearings and make the whole assembly wobble.
The other problem I see is that your printer seems to be extruding too much filament. That is likely causing the little pyramid flair at the base of your print. If you tell the printer to extrude 100mm, it ought to extrude 100mm, not 110mm. Again, a search for "extruder calibration" will tell you how to do it. For me it involved extruding, measuring, a bit of math, adjusting some variables in Marlin, compiling and uploading the with Arduino IDE. Repeat until 100mm extrudes 100mm.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/02/24 | 545 | 1,983 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an issue with my Anet A8 printer and how it interlocks with Ultimaker Cura.
I want to print this file named `Loki_hörner_v2.stl`and Cura slices it fine, but when it comes to printing all the preheat happens, but then it stops, not going on at all. What might be wrong here?<issue_comment>username_1: ### Avoid naming `.gcode` files with non-ASCII characters
*(this includes [EASCII](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_ASCII))*
I know of no firmware on a printer that can handle files that have characters not present in the set of 95 non-control [American Standard Code for Information Interchange characters](https://www.w3schools.com/charsets/ref_html_ascii.asp) by default. Marlin, for example, can't process the characters `ä` `ö` `ü` & `€` as these all are missing in the ASCII.
### Avoid having more than one `.`
Nowadays the `.` is no longer a fully reserved character in file names, so a file can be named `0.5mm Gauge Block.stl` on Windows without problems.
Ultimaker Cura will **cut** the name at the `.` before the extension when generating the `.gcode`. This is mainly done to prevent tons of errors that could crop up in firmware that might not be able to deal with it. Remember that this behavior can lead to overwriting files - our `0.5mm Gauge Block.stl` would generate `0.gcode`, as would `0.1.5 Penholder.stl` (that follows a version naming convention).
### Avoid reserved characters
Also note that some characters are reserved in file naming and will lead to other errors (mainly when trying to create the files in the first place), including, but not limited to, `/` `\` `:` `?` `*`.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Special characters like `Ä` `Ö` or `Ü` in the stl-filename resulted in Ultimaker Cura creating a comment of the filename in the g-code that read like
```
;MESH:Loki_hörner_v2.stl
```
This apparently could not be parsed by the Anet A8, leading to an error and halt.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/25 | 743 | 2,869 | <issue_start>username_0: I have only just set up my Anet A6 today. I am trying to print a calibration box, but the print is moving around the bed while trying to print. Any ideas how to fix this? The documentation is very vague.
Basically I am very new to 3D printing. I purchased an Anet A6 and have set it up stock. I am trying to just print the box directly from the demo models on the SD card. I'm using the standard filament that comes with the printer. I'm not sure what type it is.
All settings are default.<issue_comment>username_1: If the printed material moves with the nozzle, you might have several problems at hand, e.g.:
* adhesion,
* nozzle to bed distance and
* overall level.
Nozzle to bed distance needs to be the thickness of a plain A4 or Letter paper. This needs to be at the same distance (when pulling the sheet of paper you need to feel a little drag) at the complete area of the bed. This is sometimes difficult as not all beds are perfectly flat from itself. Finally, you need to pull some tricks out of your sleeve to get the filament to adhere to the bed. Many example can be found, popular ones are using blue tape, glass bed, glue stick, PVA based spray (e.g. strong hairspray or dedicated spray cans like 3DLAC or Dimafix, etc.), or a combination of these. You just need to experiment some more what works best for you, but it is good to start with a correctly levelled bed with the proper nozzle gap. Sometimes, increasing the bed and filament temperature with 5 °C for the first layer also helps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Also check your speed settings.
1st layer should always be printed 50% of the normal speed, if not less. (my choice is 20mm/s)
If your overall printing speed is really fast, collision with already printed lines may be the issue. You can try either slow down movement/print or avoid/retract over peripherals.
Any hairspray containing **neodecanoate copolymer** is a great adhesion, and very cheap :)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Chances are, you're not levelled close enough. try levelling your bed when it's heated around 60C (or as high as you can get if your machine's FW won't let it go that high) with a piece of standard printer paper. you should get a bit of resistance, and play around with the paper for a bit, find a happy medium. Try spreading glue stick on your bed, or spray it with hairspray. If you have BuildTak or some form of PEI, wipe it with some 99% rubbing alcohol. Lastly, find a fairly simple model on thingiverse.com or myminifactory.com, and slice it using either Raft or Skirt as build plate adhesion. I prefer a skirt because you can actively be checking how your bed levelling is, and adjust it. And make sure your first layer flow or extrusion multiplier is slightly higher is about 110-120%. This can get you good sticking almost every time.
Upvotes: -1 |
2019/02/26 | 1,065 | 3,869 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm currently trying to implement a data collector on my Replicator+ by utilizing JSON-RPC. Is there an **official** reference for this? MakerBot used to host a [wiki site](http://wiki.makerbot.com/), but that seems to be gone for their "troubleshooting" pages.<issue_comment>username_1: The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki
----------------------------
According to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com went offline on [31st December 2012](https://web.archive.org/web/20121126084944/http://wiki.makerbot.com:80/):
>
> Over the past three amazing years, MakerBot owners and enthusiasts around the world have shared knowledge with us and with each other. As we welcome thousands more MakerBot owners and users into the MakerBot family, we want to make sure that everyone always has the best information regarding our company and products, and that it's easily accessible.
>
>
> Here’s one thing we're doing to help: on December 31, as we close out the year, we will also turn off the lights at wiki.makerbot.com.
>
>
> The MakerBot wiki has served us well, but lately we've seen an increase in spam and a decline in community activity. Instead of continuing to maintain two separate sites, we're going to consolidate them.
>
>
> What that means is that, as of December 31st, the MakerBot wiki will no longer be available at this address. An archived version of the wiki as it stands today will be available at <http://makerbot.com/support/archive> and more former wiki content will be available at <http://makerbot.com/support>, which already hosts PDFs of some of the most useful Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake documentation. You may see some short periods of downtime as we finish moving this content.
>
>
> An archive of forum discussions will be available, but users seeking discussion with the incredibly knowledgable MakerBot community should head over to the [MakerBot Operators Google Group](https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot). Requests for help and questions about MakerBot products should, as always, be sent to mailto:<EMAIL>.
>
>
> Thanks for your contributions over the past few years to the MakerBot wiki. We hope you'll all continue to share your expertise with us and other MakerBot users for many years to come.
>
>
>
[Before that](https://web.archive.org/web/20121114075819/http://wiki.makerbot.com/), the makerbot wiki did tell that the Documentations had been moved:
>
> Note
>
> This wiki is intended for historical MakerBot documentation and community-supported projects. The new home for MakerBot documentation is <http://www.makerbot.com/docs/>
>
>
>
---
JSON-RPC
--------
There is a late 2013/early 2014 [github](https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc) that seems to work on the JSON-RPC and which might help - and still showed [some activity](https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc/graphs/contributors) past the lockup of the wiki.makerbot.com. It is only very poorly documented. The earliest activity was in 2012 with the main bulk in 2013.
The JSON project predates the start of work on the [makerbot-gen5-api](https://github.com/gryphius/makerbot-gen5-api/graphs/contributors) in 2014. This might mean that it might be documented there to some degree, But it might also be present in the generation 4 API.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It took some digging, but I was able to start scripting a wrapper in C# for the RPC commands.
* [C# Wrapper](https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore#api) (MTConnect Implementation)
* Unofficial [JSON-RPC Reference](https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore/wiki/JSON-RPC)
I still don't understand what every method does to the machine or necessarily what the results are, so a number of the methods are marked as obsolete until I can test them.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/28 | 1,271 | 4,619 | <issue_start>username_0: So I know there have been several clicking Extruder threads but have not found any solutions to the one I am having.
Background:
I have a custom Prusa like 3d printer fitted with an MKS board (v1.5) and an MK3 Extruder.
The issue:
**While i can extrude fine when ordering some extrusion, as soon as i start to print an object the extruder just starts "clicking".**
What I have tried so far:
1. Changing motors: I have tried using a new motor which I know it
works and the problem persists.
2. I have adjusted the stepper driver voltages, and the problem
persists.
3. I have changed the PSU and the problem persists.
4. Changing the whole board: I have changed the whole board with a
brand new one and the problem persists.
I am out of options here. So now the only logical explanation is that the both boards (the old and new) have exactly the same problem, i.e. the extruder stepper driver is bad in some way. Yet again, it works fine when simply extruding...
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki
----------------------------
According to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com went offline on [31st December 2012](https://web.archive.org/web/20121126084944/http://wiki.makerbot.com:80/):
>
> Over the past three amazing years, MakerBot owners and enthusiasts around the world have shared knowledge with us and with each other. As we welcome thousands more MakerBot owners and users into the MakerBot family, we want to make sure that everyone always has the best information regarding our company and products, and that it's easily accessible.
>
>
> Here’s one thing we're doing to help: on December 31, as we close out the year, we will also turn off the lights at wiki.makerbot.com.
>
>
> The MakerBot wiki has served us well, but lately we've seen an increase in spam and a decline in community activity. Instead of continuing to maintain two separate sites, we're going to consolidate them.
>
>
> What that means is that, as of December 31st, the MakerBot wiki will no longer be available at this address. An archived version of the wiki as it stands today will be available at <http://makerbot.com/support/archive> and more former wiki content will be available at <http://makerbot.com/support>, which already hosts PDFs of some of the most useful Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake documentation. You may see some short periods of downtime as we finish moving this content.
>
>
> An archive of forum discussions will be available, but users seeking discussion with the incredibly knowledgable MakerBot community should head over to the [MakerBot Operators Google Group](https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot). Requests for help and questions about MakerBot products should, as always, be sent to mailto:<EMAIL>.
>
>
> Thanks for your contributions over the past few years to the MakerBot wiki. We hope you'll all continue to share your expertise with us and other MakerBot users for many years to come.
>
>
>
[Before that](https://web.archive.org/web/20121114075819/http://wiki.makerbot.com/), the makerbot wiki did tell that the Documentations had been moved:
>
> Note
>
> This wiki is intended for historical MakerBot documentation and community-supported projects. The new home for MakerBot documentation is <http://www.makerbot.com/docs/>
>
>
>
---
JSON-RPC
--------
There is a late 2013/early 2014 [github](https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc) that seems to work on the JSON-RPC and which might help - and still showed [some activity](https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc/graphs/contributors) past the lockup of the wiki.makerbot.com. It is only very poorly documented. The earliest activity was in 2012 with the main bulk in 2013.
The JSON project predates the start of work on the [makerbot-gen5-api](https://github.com/gryphius/makerbot-gen5-api/graphs/contributors) in 2014. This might mean that it might be documented there to some degree, But it might also be present in the generation 4 API.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It took some digging, but I was able to start scripting a wrapper in C# for the RPC commands.
* [C# Wrapper](https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore#api) (MTConnect Implementation)
* Unofficial [JSON-RPC Reference](https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore/wiki/JSON-RPC)
I still don't understand what every method does to the machine or necessarily what the results are, so a number of the methods are marked as obsolete until I can test them.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/28 | 514 | 1,977 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using a Flash Forge Creator, and when I print big parts (only in this case) I have about 25% of the bottom of the printed object sticking very hard to its support layer. And I spend a lot of time removing it with a cutter.
Is there any clue or good practice to avoid that?
I use ReplicatorG for my printing settings.<issue_comment>username_1: According to the manufacturer:
>
> ... you are able to choose your favorite software such as
> FlashPrint, Simplify3D, Cura and more.
>
>
>
Not being familiar with ReplicatorG, I know that other slicer software can set the distance between supports and print (in terms of the amount of layers). You could look for such a setting in ReplicatorG, or use a different slicer such as Ultimaker Cura or Slic3r; which are free and able to make such adjustments.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I finally found out two causes:
1. The 3D printer has default settings for ABS, and since there is no printer bed settings in ReplicatorG, the bed temperature was set to 110 °C instead of 60°C. I fixed the setting directly on the printer itself.
2. It seems that one side of the printer bed was little closer to the nozzle than other sides (relatively to the extruder) and this added a pressure on the support layer. I found this by observing the structure of the support layer that was little more compressed in one side. That was easy to fix by iteratively tightening/loosening the screw of that side and observing the support layer (and canceling the print if it is not homogeneous).
I installed Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r to try them and I found that Ultimaker Cura was not adapted to my printer (I did not found a complying model), Slic3r seems to be okay but I was not able to fit my big part inside of it.
I am trying to use the maximum available space for my part, perhaps I need to change some settings for Slic3r and anyway it is already working on ReplicatorG.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/02/28 | 850 | 3,214 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm struggling with an upgrade I made to my Creality CR-10. I upgraded the extruder to an E3D V6 hotend. The extruder mount and cooling fans are installed and working, however, I'm doing something wrong with installing the bowden tube into the hotend. Inevitably after I print a few layers, the extruder jambs and the issue is always the same: the bowden tube has backed itself out a few tenths of a millimeter, and the filament has mushroomed into the vacant space and hardened so that the filament cannot go forward or backwards.
I've tried several things to fix the issue including:
* Trying various pneumatic fittings from various suppliers
* Recutting the end of the bowden tube to attempt to make it more flush
* Replacing the bowden tube
* Three different E3D heat-breaks from different supplier
* Various ways of inserting the bowden tube including: pushing it after the fitting was screwed in, pushing it into a fitting that was back out a couple turns and then screwing the fitting in
The only thing that has (partially) worked was when I would ductape and hot-glue the bowden tube into the fitting so it couldn't back out. However, since I'm still tweaking things, I inevitably have to disassemble things and I'm back to square one.
I'm trying to figure out what mistake I am making to keep causing this issue. As an example, originally I used the pneumatic fittings wrong and thought I was supposed to pull the plastic part out to release the tube, rather than simply pushing it in to release the tube. (Needless to say, I wrecked a lot of fittings that way.)
What else might I be doing wrong to keep causing this issue? What are other culprits to this issue happening repeatedly? Are there firmware settings that may help (or be aggravating the issue)?<issue_comment>username_1: This sounds more like a problem with heat creep. When you installed the new hotend, did you reuse the old cooling solution? You might need more heatblock insulation and / or cooling power.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: You may need to secure the pneumatic coupling in the closed position with a small plastic clip (which should be supplied with the hot end).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3ljP.jpg)
You can print your own, providing that your printer will work for long enough (a paper clip might do the trick):
[Thingiverse: Bowden Tube Clip v3](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798864)
**Addendum:**
Some pneumatic couplers are sprung, so that you have to depress the coupling ring in order to release the tubing. In this case, no clip is usually required. Other pneumatic couplers (such as the one on an E3D V6) are unsprung. This makes it easier to secure and release the tube using the supplied clip. The disadvantage is that you may lose the clip. Sprung couplers sometimes lose their springiness, in which case a clip can be used to secure them in the closed position
It's "swings and roundabouts", really. You can to choose between the awkwardness of sprung couplers, or the risk of losing a clip. Either way, print some spare clips. You may need them one day.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/03/01 | 663 | 2,519 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently started using my kit Prusa I3 Mk3 and noticed that with large horizontal surfaces a wrinkling pattern is emerging.
As you can see in the image the wrinkles seem to run parallel, the surface is 10 mm above the build plate with all bridges fully supported.
Has anyone seen this before? All other areas seem to be doing well.
This print uses PLA filament @ 235 °C hotend temperature and clearly shows a wrinkled pattern on the top layer
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/a8luU.jpg "Print showing wrinkled top layer print issue")
---
If it helps, I haven't changed the settings from the normal Prusa Slic3r 0.15 profile.
*The problem reduced to an acceptable level by reducing the temperature to 205 °C but keeping the fan speed 100 %, I am printing PLA. I might reduce the fan speed if I feel troubled by the result.*<issue_comment>username_1: Might just be that you are bridging without collapsing but still have some visible sag. Things to try:
1) increase the support/infil density. If slic3r has a configurable setting like Cura does, you only need to increase the density for the last couple mm prior to the top layer.
2) increase the top plate thickness (number of extruded layers). This often allows the first extruded layer to sag, but the final layer or two to be quite flat.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: *Waves in printed surfaces with [FFF](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fused_filament_fabrication) are observed at either the bottom layer (common) or the top layer (less common).*
Waves in bottom layer
---------------------
Rippling/wave generation/wrinkling is a common problem for first layer to occur and has a direct relation to the print nozzle to bed distance; a too short of a distance or over-extrusion can lead to this effect. However, this effect is less commonly observed in top layer finishes. Bottom layer waves are described in more detail in [this answer](/a/7232).
Waves in top layer
------------------
I have seen this defect before. It is caused by a *combination of incorrect **hotend temperature** and **print cooling fan** settings*. Please reduce the hotend temperature and reduce the fan cooling. The image below clearly shows the differences of such measures.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/10XmG.jpg)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/03/01 | 2,299 | 8,408 | <issue_start>username_0: One thing I never understood is the so-called **Extrusion Multiplier (EM)** or **Flow** setting in slicers like Simplify3D (S3D) or CURA.
The description for this setting reads...
* S3D: *Multiplier for all extrusion movements (...)*
* CURA: *The amount of material extruded is multiplied by this value. (...)*
I always believed that this parameter is just an ugly way to fix an underlying miscalculation or misconfiguration, because using it feels like doing a calculation, getting the wrong result and "correcting" it afterwards by a multiplier - *isn't that cheating*?
---
But, recently I thought a bit harder about this setting, now I am not sure anymore. One of the main reasons is, that S3D suggests different values for the EM, depending on the type of plastics used, **0.9 for PLA** and **1.0 for ABS**.
This somehow implies that there is a *physical property* that justifies the EM, but I cannot think of one because 1 m feeded would lead to 1 m extruded - no matter what kind of platics used, right?<issue_comment>username_1: That's one way to look at it, I guess. I think a more accurate way is to consider it an "ad-hoc calibration" where one realizes that their printer isn't extruding enough/too much and the EM adjusts the flow to extrude the correct amount.
The underlying calculation, at least the main one, would be the steps/mm set in the firmware. If it's off, one fix is to figure out how much it is off by and change the EM to that. The better solution is to determine the actual steps/mm and flash the firmware so that the EM can be set to 1.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: No, the Flow rate or Extrusion multiplier is to compensate for different materials and temperature ranges.
Where does the factor come from?
--------------------------------
Let's say we calibrated our nozzle for work at 200°C with PLA, so 100 mm extrusion are correct and want to print ABS. ABS behaves differently and we get bad prints. What is wrong? Well, they do behave differently in the heat, and print at different temperatures. One easily noticeable difference between the two is the heat expansion coefficient.
Now, I had to scrounge through [research papers](https://www.e3s-conferences.org/articles/e3sconf/pdf/2018/07/e3sconf_eenviro2018_01007.pdf) and Material/Technical Data Sheets for PLA, so take that one with a grain of salt. But we can clearly compare the various plastics [heat expansion coefficients](https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/linear-expansion-coefficients-d_95.html):
* PLA: $41 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$ [a TDS](https://www.sd3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MaterialTDS-PLA_01.pdf)
* ABS: $72 \to 108 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$
* Polycarbonate: $65 \to 70 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$
* Polyamides (Nylons): $80 \to 110 \frac{\text{µm}}{\text{m K}}$
Those are just three randomly picked plastics that clearly are printable. If we heat one meter of them by one Kelvin, they'd expand by that length (a couple micrometer). We heat the later three printing materials to about 200-240 K over the room temperature (~220-260 °C), so we'd expect these the materials to expand by the following ranges:
* PLA: 6.97 to 7.79 mm (1)
* ABS: 14.4 to 25.92 mm (2)
* Polycarbonate: 13 to 16.8 mm (2)
* Polyamides (Nylons): 16 to 26.4 mm (2)
1 - using 170 K and 190 K temperature difference for its normal print temperature range of ca 190 to 200 °C
2 - first: low expansion at 200 K increase, then high expansion at 240 K
You have calibrated your printer for *one* of these values somewhere in there. And now you get a different filament that has a different color and a different blend or even you swap from PLA to ABS or switch from one brand to another - the result is: you get a different heat expansion coefficient somewhere in that range and you have almost no chance to know it. The heat expansion coefficient, in the end, has an effect on the pressure in the nozzle and this the speed the material leaves the nozzle, which impacts die swell and so the overall printing behavior.
Remember that heat expansion is not the only thing that is happening in the nozzle. Other big factors are for example the viscosity of the polymer at its printing temperature, its compressibility (which depends for example on chain length or embedded fillers), the geometry of the nozzle, the length of the melt zone... they all play a role in how exactly the print gets to come out.
We can sum all those up under a general "behavior in the nozzle" tag, and as a result one gets vastly different flow/extrusion multipliers, like the 0.9 for PLA/1 for ABS in Simplify3D.
Other Factors?
--------------
There are also other factors that play a role.
The distance between the extruder and the melt zone and how the filament behaves there are somewhat obvious: A ductile filament can bunch up some in a Bowden tube while in a direct drive there is much less space for that.
The extruder can have an influence depending on the geometry of the drive gear and how much it *bites* into the filament. The depth of the deformation is again dependant on the hardness of the filament and the geometry of the teeth. [Tollo](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8396/8884) has a great explanation how this has an effect on the need to alter the extrusion multiplier.
gaining the factors
-------------------
Most of these are determined by trial and error using a factor of 1 and dialing up manually until proper printing is achieved on the machine, then putting that factor back into the software.
As a side note: Ultimaker Cura has (in its filament database) the ability to save flow rates into each different filament, but does initialize all with 100 % default.
TL;DR
-----
It is a way to adjust to the relative difference between the behavior of filaments (using one of your filaments as the calibration) and *not* cheating.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_3: The extrusion multiplier is just to compensate for amounts of flow. A material like PLA is very fluid when at 190-200C, so to extrude slightly less then 100% would reduce zits on the print, slightly increase tolerance, reduce stringing and also reduce risk of heatcreep. Materials like ABS and Nylon aren't as liquid when at temperature, so they don't require any alterations to the flow rate during printing. Flow rate can also be adjusted to improve first layers, although too much can cause "elephants foot", or too much first layer squish, similar to having your bed leveled too close.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: In addition to the very detailed answers above, I would like to
mention that the hardness of the filament plays a role too.
Most feeders are spring loaded, therefore it depends on the **hardness of the filament** how far the teeth of the driving gear do sink in. The deeper they sink in, the smaller the **effective diameter** of the driving gear becomes.
Therefore the E-steps/mm are not the same among ABS [(~100 shore D)](https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/hardness-shore-d) and PLA [(~83 shore D)](https://ultimaker.com/download/67580/TDS%20PLA%20v3.011-ger-DE.pdf).
This would lead to a higher value (of E-steps/mm) necessary for PLA as for ABS,
contrary to the values mentioned in the OP (EM of 0.9 for PLA / EM of 1.0 for ABS), where the extrusion multiplier is higher for ABS than for PLA.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: To address the 'cheating or not' aspect directly. There are several other parameters (steps/mm, nominal filament diameter) which have a direct equivalent impact on the end result (at least ignoring small 2nd order effects like the retract distances).
As a purist, you might argue that these could all be rolled up into a single calibration parameter in the slicer, and it is a waste to allow the user to pick how to manage the differences (but this is not a very modern UI approach).
The clearest reason for 'permitting' the use of extrusion multiplier is that *during a print*, extrusion multiplier is one parameter that can often be adjusted on the fly. If you end up needing to perform on the fly calibration, it absolutely makes sense to transfer this parameter from the machine to the slicer rather than perform the extra calculations to determine a new nominal filament diameter. It will probably be easier to remember a specific spool needing 95%, rather than 1.7nnn mm.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/02 | 497 | 1,834 | <issue_start>username_0: I bought an Ender 3, and after assembling it following the description and some YouTube videos and after correct leveling, I printed the test dog gcode on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. PLA 1.75 mm. Attached the image of the printing result. What went wrong? I didn't change or modify any settings what so ever, I just assembled the printer, and printed the test dog. Please help me, I am a beginner in 3D printing.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CisP7.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: This is an extreme case of repeated layer shifting in the Y-carriage, which can come from some pieces related to the carriage. Luckily for you, they are easily fixable.
* The Ender3 Y-carriage has an eccentric nut to adjust the force the wheels press down on the V-slot. Adjust it (most likely loosen them a little) so it moves smoothly when the motors are off, but keep it tight enough so it does not tilt.
* The belt in the Y-carriage might be loose. Tighten it till it gives a nice ring when struck.
* Check if the gear on the Y-motor is tightened down correctly. If it slips or wriggles, the backlash results in the layers shifting.
* The Ender3 has the cables to the gantry and the bed running across each other and quite open. Make sure nothing can be caught in them.
* Make sure the gantry is parallel to the bed and stays so in moving upwards - adjust the wheels as needed.
+ To ensure this, make sure the lead screw is orthogonal to the gantry. Level the bed afterwards. You might need to adjust the motor mount, possibly by shimming.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Ender 3's have a reputation to be not quite square on the base. Make sure that your X, Y, and X axis' are all perfectly squared.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/03/03 | 1,161 | 3,995 | <issue_start>username_0: I am looking for the temperature rating for hardboard. I want to use that as the base for my printer enclosure.
It has proven incredible hard get a ball-park figure from Google.
So, what is the maximum safe temperature for a hardboard panel at long term? (considering a print job can easily take 6 hours).
PS: if you have used a hardboard to build your enclosure, your experience might be helpful.<issue_comment>username_1: Hardboard is called *Masonite* here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the [Material Safety Data Sheet](http://www.gunnersens.co.nz/images/stories/products/Masonite%20Standard/specs/Australian_Hardboards_Masonite_MSDS.pdf) you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):
>
> Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius
>
>
>
In Section 7, it states:
>
> These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.
>
>
>
Furthermore in Section 10, it states:
>
> **Conditions to avoid:** Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.
> Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.
>
>
>
The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is [listed](https://www.chromaluxe.com/wp-content/uploads/SDS-Hardboard-Universal-Woods.pdf) at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.
Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is [listed](https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/MDF/WP-GoldPlus%202013.pdf) at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.
The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is [listed](http://www.clarionindustries.com/assets/files/Clarion-msds-hdf.pdf) with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is [listed](http://www.langboard.com/osb/data/osb_msds.pdf) at 200 to 260 °C.
Conclusion
----------
All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.
* A smoke detector is a must.
* Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.
* Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. [Copper tapes](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/copper-tapes/) are more expensive than [Aluminium tapes](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/) but have a better heat transfer coefficient.1
* Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.
1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. [McMaster Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/) does list special [heat shielding tape](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3591) in both thin and aluminium as well as [copper and aluminium foil](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3587) tapes. I am not affiliated to either.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/05 | 1,208 | 4,070 | <issue_start>username_0: Sometimes my meshes turn out with artifacts Which can be seen in the bottom image. What is the cause? The first image shows my mesh which its generated from.
I've tried multiple slicers. This tends to occur sometimes.
Any help appreciated. Is there something going over my head???
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/neQxc.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W19Y7.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Hardboard is called *Masonite* here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the [Material Safety Data Sheet](http://www.gunnersens.co.nz/images/stories/products/Masonite%20Standard/specs/Australian_Hardboards_Masonite_MSDS.pdf) you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):
>
> Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius
>
>
>
In Section 7, it states:
>
> These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.
>
>
>
Furthermore in Section 10, it states:
>
> **Conditions to avoid:** Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.
> Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.
>
>
>
The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you'll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn't get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is [listed](https://www.chromaluxe.com/wp-content/uploads/SDS-Hardboard-Universal-Woods.pdf) at around 200 to 275 °C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let's look at similar products.
Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is [listed](https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/MDF/WP-GoldPlus%202013.pdf) at 200 to 275 °C, so pretty close.
The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is [listed](http://www.clarionindustries.com/assets/files/Clarion-msds-hdf.pdf) with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275 °C.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is [listed](http://www.langboard.com/osb/data/osb_msds.pdf) at 200 to 260 °C.
Conclusion
----------
All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200 °C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.
* A smoke detector is a must.
* Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.
* Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. [Copper tapes](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/copper-tapes/) are more expensive than [Aluminium tapes](https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/) but have a better heat transfer coefficient.1
* Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.
1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. [McMaster Carr](https://www.mcmaster.com/) does list special [heat shielding tape](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3591) in both thin and aluminium as well as [copper and aluminium foil](https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3587) tapes. I am not affiliated to either.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/08 | 987 | 3,531 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to 3d print my own icing smoothers, but I'm not sure if its safe to have plastic from a 3D printer in contact with cake icing. Is there any harm in this?<issue_comment>username_1: Only certain plastics are safe enough to be used to contain or manipulate food. ABS and PET-G are such materials. The 3d printing process however is not food safe because, it creates crevices in the printed part into which bacteria and other contaminants can cling to. A printed part would need to be coated in a silicone rubber to render the surface both inert (can't grow anything) and smooth (no crevices). Further, the type of plastic you use must be able to be sterilized in boiling water. PLA softens in boiling water. PET-G variants can as well (think clear plastic bottles). This is why most food handing utensils are either glass or stainless steel.
If you are going to use a 3d printing process to produce parts that are to be used for food, you also have to consider containment from the machine itself. The brass nozzle, the teflon tube, the extruder gears etc. The filament itself may not have come from the factory as clean as it would need to be to be used around food.
If you are able to coat the heat resistant part in silicone and you only use it a few times (ensuring that it is properly washed and sterile) then it can be used for food prep purposes.
There is a difference between food grade and safe for contact with food.
>
> Acrylonitrile/butadiene/styrene copolymer identified in this section may be safely used as an article or component of articles intended for use with all foods, except those containing alcohol, under conditions of use E, F, and G described in table 2 of 176.170(c) of this chapter.
>
>
>
[Abstract from: https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1020](https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfcfr/CFRSearch.cfm?fr=177.1020)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As mentioned, FDM 3D printed parts are flawed for food service and prep use regardless of the material, because of the small gaps between lines where bacteria can grow, and because your printer isn't used in a way to keep it from introducing contaminants into otherwise clean material.
However, there are some ways around this.
### Single-use
I'm pretty comfortable using my printer to make items for **one time use**. If I wanted an icing smoother with a fancy shape for a special cake that I'm not likely to need again soon, I'd go ahead and do that. I would apply all the icing at one time, and then I'd *discard the piece*, rather than try to clean and save it. Also note that I'm not talking about a commercial kitchen; this would be for a cake I'd eat myself with friends, rather than sell.
The big thing I've done this way so far (I've had my printer less than a year) is make shaped cookie cutters. I'll print the cutters, use them, and then throw them away. If I want the same shape again some time, I'll re-print.
### Lining
The other thing you can do with food prep items is print them with the intent to use liners. For example, [here is a 3D-printable taco train](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1782268), where a train car has grooves to hold tacos (yum!). It wouldn't be good to put a taco directly in here, but you could use napkins or similar food-safe liner to separate the 3D part from the food. In the case of the icing smoother, you might be able to print the part and wrap it in aluminum foil.
Upvotes: 3 |
2019/03/10 | 1,872 | 6,216 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been using my Ender 3 for about four months now and it's been working wonderfully. The print quality is amazing and all the prints are very strong. Then about three weeks ago, my entire system crashed while Ultimaker Cura was open and it lost the profile for my 3D printer. I recreated the profile to the best of my ability with other people's working profiles online, but none of them worked right. I've been getting severe under extrusion in all my prints, and they're incredibly fragile. For now, I've just been printing a 1"x1"x1" test cube. I've tried many steps from other people's posts online to fix the problem, including:
1. Raising the print temperature for PLA to 200 °C.
2. Checking the extruder for signs of too little tension or too much tension. I checked, and the PLA has light tooth imprints on it, and no grinding or damage to the filament.
3. Clearing out the extruder. I disassembled the whole extruder assemble, and flushed all the plastic from each part with a heat gun, and metal pick, and then tried reprinting, but it didn't work.
4. Trying a newer Ultimaker Cura version. At the time, I was using Ultimaker Cura 3.1 and hadn't updated because it was working well. I then tried the newest stable release of Ultimaker Cura 3.6, with a few different profiles, and then I also tried the beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.0, but none of these worked.
5. Increasing the extrusion rate. I incrementally increased the extrusion rate from 100 % all the way up to 130 %. The prints looked a little better and were a lot stronger, but this still didn't fix it.
6. Trying a different slicer. I then downloaded Slic3r and created a new profile in that. The prints turned out a lot better, but there was still significant under extruding.
7. Checking the filament tube for any burns or damage, and ensuring it's inside the extruder assembly all the way.
If anyone can help me figure out what's going on with my printer, I'd really appreciate it!
Here are some pictures of the prints I've been getting:
These were made in Ultimaker Cura with different small changes to the profile made
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZDWV.jpg)
These were made in slic3r with a flow rate adjusted up to 130%
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rV2sO.jpg)
These were prints I made before I lost all my settings in Ultimaker Cura.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7hie.jpg)
Here's some of the material I read/watched and checked before posting myself:
* [I am experiencing some severe under extrusion](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2931/i-am-experiencing-some-severe-under-extrusion)
* [Sudden underextrusion on Ender3](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6807/sudden-underextrusion-on-ender3)
* [r/3DPrinting: Under extrusion on Ender 3](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8vxttn/under_extrusion_on_ender_3_sharing_my_mistake_and/)
* [Fixing a Filament Flow Problem on CR-10 mini, CR-10 or Ender 3 by CHEP](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x35aWmnZ_A0)
Edit: Here's my printer profile:
[Ender 3 Profile Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sn2d9IWmpEiSsuOhOJTkYu7RPEc8xjO1/view?usp=sharing)<issue_comment>username_1: It is not too rare to create a new machine in Ultimaker Cura to be set to 2.85 mm as this is the default. Also some bugs in the past did reset or assume this diameter unless you manually set it, and unless we know your exact version we can't confirm it is really this.
Underextrusion why?
-------------------
The 0.55 mm more radius result in an underextrusion due to the pressed through volume, and since $V=A\times l$, we need to see the area to see how severe the underextrusion is for one given extruded length. $A\_{1.75}=2.405\text{ mm²}$ and $A\_{2.85}=6.379\text{ mm²}$ are rather obvious, so $\frac {\text{real extrusion diameter}} {\text{calculated extrusion diameter}}=\frac{A\_{1.75}}{A\_{2.85}}=37.7\ \%$, so only about 40 % of the needed filament is pressed through the nozzle as the slicer thinks it is almost twice the diameter. This matches well with the 130% still being very spotty, as that'd need a much higher factor to compensate for the underextrusion. A compensating extrusion multiplier would be $\frac 1 {0.377}=265.25\ \%$.
Fixing
------
To fix this, check under filament and set it to 1.75 mm so you force the correct diameter. Remember that filament diameter is **not** saved in the *printer profile* but in the *material database*.
You might need to restart Ultimaker Cura to activate these new settings.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The following saved me from under extrusion on Ender 3 Pro.
1. Check the diameter of the material referenced and the nozzle parameter in your slicer (Cura, ...). Then re-slice.
2. If not sufficient, it may be a printer parameter issue. The extruder parameter is missconfigured: the stepper to filameter distance ratio is not correct and as a result, it does not feed the requested length of filament.
To fix the printer parameter, send the following gcode sequence (use a G-code console like "GCode Sender - Pronterface").
We will follow this procedure:
* ask to feed 100 mm of filament
* mesure the actual length feeded
* read the parameter inside the printer
* write correct value.
G-code:
```
M83 ; set to extruder relative mode
; Be ready to mesure how much filament will really be consumed
G1 E100 F100 ; request 100 mm of filament
; Let "L" be the length in mm you mesured
; Now read the extruder related value in the printer
M503 ; and let "V" be the last number at line "echo: M92"
; Then set the correct value
M92 E{V*100/L}; Eg "M92 E222"
M500 ; write to memory
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: My Man, The Ender 3 Marlin firmware saves your E-Steps on the SD Card and you basically have to check the E-Steps every startup because the Firmware sets back the E-Steps Value every shutdown to the minimum 93. Thats a known issue of the Enders and still on the Mk.3 aka Ender 3v2 present. It's an easy fix.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/03/11 | 1,101 | 4,276 | <issue_start>username_0: As an electrician newbie I have a question..
Short question
--------------
My power plug is attached to the wall outlet and three wires are at the end of it.. the blue, the brown and the green/yellow oen.
How to determine which is the live, zero and ground wire WITHOUT depending on the colouring?
I want to know this to always be able to check the wiring, if I don't trust it.
Also, I have these sub questions that follow from my situation:
* Why does the test screwdriver lit up when connected to the apparant zero line?
* How can I determine the live/zero line using a multimeter
Situation
---------
My tools:
* a test screw driver
* a multimeter
* the ANET A6 manual
In the manual it states that
* brown is the live wire
* blue is the zero wire
* green/yellow is the ground wire
I know that in some countries this colour coding is the standard and can be trusted. I just want to be able to check it.
So, my first hypothesis would be.. if I put the test screw driver on the live (brown) wire, lay my thumb on the end, the internal bulb would glow.
This did not happen.
It did happen when I put it on the zero (blue) wire. So I am a bit confused by this.
My second trick was using the multimeter. Using the positive and negative probes to determine the polarity and therefore decide how the current was flowing.
But there was no sign of polarity... duh.. because I was of course on AC, which is always Alternating.. hence no sign information from a multimeter.
So, how CAN I use a multimeter to determine the live/zero line? Maybe measure the current from live/zero to ground? Is that a safe option?
PS: my first post on this forum.. so please correct me where needed<issue_comment>username_1: As it is alternating current, why are you interested to know which is which? (I'm referring to the blue and the brown wire, the green/yellow has an obvious purpose)
E.g. a [CEE 7/4 plug](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_power_plugs_and_sockets) can be flipped around in the CEE 7/3 socket. When you flip the plug (180°), the brown and the blue switch places, it is all depending on how the electrician in your home attached the brown and blue wires in the socket and depends on the socket and plug you use.
The only benefit would be that when you cut the power with a relay, you may want to have the power on the side of the relay, not the printer; but again, that does not matter when you flip the plug 180°. Note that some plugs inhibit rotation, so it also depends on the plug and socket you use and where you are located.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This picture shows the correct wiring for a British 13A mains plug:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4EqF.jpg)
The green/yellow wire must **always** be connected to the earth terminal (at the top of the plug). This is most important, and will prevent electrocution if something goes wrong.
The brown (live) wire should be connected to the fuse, and the blue wire to the remaining terminal. It is true that, since alternating current is being used, the device will likely work if the blue and brown wires are swapped, but it is better to stick with standard practices to avoid confusion.
I would not use a "test" screwdriver to determine which terminal is "live" in this instance, simply because it is unnecessary. **The live terminal is always the one that the fuse is connected to.** This is done for safety reasons since the device is automatically disconnected from the live side of the circuit if the fuse blows.
How to wire mains plugs is really beyond the scope of this stack. Watch appropriate YouTube videos if you want to make a competent job of it. The only advice that I will give is to always use a proper fuse of the correct rating for the device. Never use something like a paper-clip. Also, don't use the 13 Amp fuse that comes with the plug. The fuse is there to protect the cable, rather than the device. Most printers will draw less than 5 Amps, and will be supplied with a 5 Amp cable, so use a 5 Amp fuse.
Also, **never work on a plug while it is connected to the power socket**. This is most foolhardy, even if the socket appears to be switched off.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/11 | 1,071 | 3,786 | <issue_start>username_0: Over the last two days I have tried everything I could come up with to fix the following issues.
It all started with bad bed adhesion.(pic.1) Solutions for these problems are readily available, so I calibrated my Z-axis (did the whole wizard from start to finish again) and started a calibration print over the whole buildplate, getting an interesting result.(pic.2) As you can see some area's are squashed nicely whilst others come off directly.
I then started looking for alternative Z-levelling solutions and came across an alternative calibration file (link1), at first glance the results seemed allright, -0,8mm seem to provide the best results (pic.3) however notice the darkened area to the left (could be the high temp of this test? 225c?).
To validate the number I did a full print on -0,8 and this is where it gets weird, the result shows a non uniform transparancy (pic.4) the mechanical properties are also a lot less. I used my caliper to check the printer and all seems to be well within expected ranges.
The bed is also flat, checked with a ruler for deformaties.
Printing with the first spool of Prusa fillament, do notice some changes in the Z-level calibration print, the edges now bend upwards, this is done with the same Gcode and spool as previous (pic.5).
Any advice on what to do next?
Printing on 210c with fan off for the first layer, test square on 225c, all PLA.
Cleaned the bed with Acetone (99% pure) before each attempt.
Picture 1:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BEr9G.jpg)
Picture 2:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jh52H.jpg)
Picture 3:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4wtl.jpg)
Picture 4:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WUwgq.jpg)
Picture 5:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqd5r.jpg)
EDIT: So Mick mentioned cleaning the nozzle which helped with the inconsistent first layer. In the end it was me being unaware that Aceton doesn't help with grease, a thorough scrubbing of the buildplate with soap and really hot water helped.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Speny.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: If you repeat a test and the problem occurs in the same location, then you probably have a problem with your bed or build plate. However, picture 3 suggests to me that you may have a partially clogged nozzle. Manually extrude some filament. It should fall straight down. If it curls as it comes out of the nozzle, then you have a partial clog. Brass nozzles do wear out, so if you've put some hours on your printer, it might be a good idea to fit a new one.
Edit: I meant picture 3, not picture 4.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The Prusa i3 is coated with a PEI sheet. PEI and other build plates stick to the build but don't like to be dirty. Fingerprints can build up and create an interference layer of fats that lessen the adhesion to a point the pieces spontaneously pop off.
A good cleaning is often needed. For PEI Isopropylic Alcohol is a fast cleaner, but if you can remove the build plate soap and water work too - but take care not to go too hot as PEI can get damaged. For BuildTak and similar, Acetone also can do the job.
When using Gluestick to create a deliberate destroyable adhesion layer (for filaments fusing with PEI that can result in chipping out chunks) clean the surface afterward with a little water. In the choice of gluestick, make sure you get a PVA based one.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/03/12 | 710 | 2,846 | <issue_start>username_0: I am new here and would like to work on a project to 3D print a precision prototype. What is the most affordable way to do it? How do I go about it?<issue_comment>username_1: These two videos seem to give a good, general, entry-level introduction to the various technologies and processes that are involved in 3D printing:
* [The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Printing - Part 1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LBTkLsjHGQ)
* [The Ultimate Beginner's Guide to 3D Printing - Part 2](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VN1RO1Oey-w)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: [The question ask asked is vague, but since you are new it is understandable.]
If you want to build a precision prototype then you have to decide on the level of precision that is necessary. There are different types of 3D printers and services available which give various levels of precision and functionality.
Fused Filament Fabrication/Fused Deposition Modeling - This is typically a means of producing functional prototypes using plastic filament. In terms of precision it is currently the lest precise, but the most cost effective.
Binder Jetting - This is basically crazy glue with food coloring which is inkjet printed onto a white powder layer by layer (vast oversimplification). Useful for producing prototypes with colours for product mockups but not for functional parts. This is mid the mid point in terms of price and precision.
Stereo Lithography / Photo polymerization - Lasers cause a liquid resin to harden and stick to each other. Also notable for being the first form of 3D printing, this is the highest precision that is easily attainable. The cost varies based on the provider but it is usually the most expensive option.
Depending on your needs you may find that it is cheaper to develop a single prototype part (just one part not an entire machine) by sending out to a contract manufacturer as opposed to purchasing a 3D printer.
Here are some examples of what to do when:
* If you want to develop a diamond engagement ring for a customer: Send out to a contract manufacturer, for Stereo Lithography
* If you broke part of the cupboard and its easy to design a new one: Consider purchasing a sub $400 USD FFF machine and learn to use it.
* If you are developing a new line of designer sneaker: Send out to a contract manufacturer for Binder Jetting.
* If you are doing miniature figurines for a stop motion animation television series: Invest in a Binder Jet machine and learn how to use it.
In my experience, people don't buy a 3D printer until they have held a 3D printed part in their hand or have seen the machinery in person. If you are new, start with a contract manufacturer and when you start spending so much on them that it is equaling the cost of owning a machine, then invest in your own system.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/12 | 351 | 1,263 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using IdeaMaker for slicing my print objects. IdeaMaker start strings have a >T0< standing alone on one line and then >T1< on the next line. What does this accomplish?<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not sure what it's doing in your case, but the "T" code is there to select the extruder number. T0 would be the first and T1 would be the second extruder in a multi-extruder setup. I found the information at the end of [this cheat sheet](http://www.makeit-3d.com/wp-content/uploads/RepRapGcodeCheatSheet.pdf).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: T stands for ["Tool"](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#Letter_addresses) and has its origin in the origins of [`.gcode`](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code#Letter_addresses) being for other automated machine controls. Depending on the machine, everything could be a tool for `.gcode`, like an actuator or pump or a spindle motor or a drill.
In 3D printers, the T-controlled tool is usually the **extruder motor**. Convention has it that the indexing always starts at 0, so T0 and T1 are your first and second Extruder respectively. It is the way to choose which tool is used.
As a side note: E is not originally intended for extruders but for the feed rate of lathes.
Upvotes: 3 |
2019/03/14 | 610 | 2,348 | <issue_start>username_0: My Anet A8 reads as 120ish degrees Celsius, but it is set to 200 degrees. I don't know if it is reading the wrong temperature because it still pushes out plastic when I force it. It will climb up and then go back down. I don't know if the hot end it broke or if the thermistor is broke.<issue_comment>username_1: You are sitting on a fire risk!
-------------------------------
If you are using the stock/original firmware, you should ***immediately stop printing***. The stock firmware of the Anet A8 has no [thermal runaway protection](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection) (*see also [this answer](/a/6953/)*), this means it will keep heating until the thermistor senses 200 °C, even if it cannot do that for some reason or another.
When a hotend temperature does not read the correct value, your thermistor in the hotend may not be making correct contact (as you say that it goes up and down). Please ensure that the thermistor is correctly positioned, it makes good contact and the wires correctly fastened.
Similarly applies to the heater cartridge, which can fall out and causing a fire if not properly fastened. Ensure the heater cartridge is properly positioned and held in the heater block.
Fluctuations in temperature sometimes are induced by a wrongly positioned fan duct (but generally not that much). The reason why this is not the case here is that you can still push the filament through while it reads about 120 °C; *this temperature is generally too low to push filament through*. Apparently the hotend is still hot enough to push filament through while registering a low temperature.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Without any other information, the highest odds are that the fan is blowing on the hot end. If the temp drops when the fan is on, and rises when the fan is off, then simply re-position the fan nozzle. If that's not the problem, check the thermistor. If that's not it, check the termination (tighten the screws) of the hot-end wires at the control board.
Next, check the control board. If there's any indication that it's the board, one potential solution is to add a MOSFET ([see the link](https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/electronics/heatbed_mosfet)). Even if the control board isn't the problem, I would add the MOSFET.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/03/14 | 1,764 | 7,273 | <issue_start>username_0: What is Thermal Runaway Protection (TRP) and why should I enable it?
How does one do so in Marlin?<issue_comment>username_1: What is TRP and how does it work?
=================================
Thermal runaway protection is basically self-explaining; it is protection against the temperature getting out of control. Essentially, the firmware checks whether the measured output of the thermistor (*What is a thermistor? A thermistor is basically a temperature sensor; it is an electrical component (more specific: a resistor) that has a large reduction of its resistance when heated; it is frequently used for measurement and control as you can link the resistance to the temperature via a table or a curve*) is within an expected range for a certain target value within a certain time frame when heating the hotend or the heated bed.
E.g. When you request the hotend or heated bed to a certain temperature, the heater elements are being scheduled/switched on to increase the temperature. If the temperature increase as a result of scheduling the hotend or heated bed are not met in time (settings in the firmware configuration), the printer will halt and heating of the heater elements will stop. The printer needs to be reset after such a failure.
What triggers TRP?
------------------
Common problems that trigger the thermal runaway protection are:
* a faulty thermistor,
* an incorrectly placed thermistor (e.g. not making good enough contact with the heater block),
+ including falling out
* a loose heater cartridge,
+ including falling out
* faulty connectors,
* faulty or partially broken wires,
* basically, anything that interrupts either heating or the measurement of the signal.
Why should TRP be active?
-------------------------
Thermal runaway protection is mainly meant to prevent fire hazards by stopping the heater cartridge when it might have fallen out of the heater block and is trying to set the whole surroundings on fire.
To illustrate the point: This happens if Thermal Runaway Protection is disabled, and the [associated story](https://www.thissmarthouse.net/dont-burn-your-house-down-3d-printing-a-cautionary-tale/). Luckily this one did not result in a loss of life and home, but it could have - and the owner was able to do some forensic examination on what caused the fire.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eJput.png)
How to activate TRP in Marlin firmware?
---------------------------------------
Please make sure that you have the configuration lines in the Thermal Runaway Protection section (466-485) of your [Configuration.h](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h) file uncommented *(no // in front of the lines starting with #define THERMAL\_...)*.
```
//===========================================================================
//======================== Thermal Runaway Protection =======================
//===========================================================================
/**
* Thermal Protection provides additional protection to your printer from damage
* and fire. Marlin always includes safe min and max temperature ranges which
* protect against a broken or disconnected thermistor wire.
*
* The issue: If a thermistor falls out, it will report the much lower
* temperature of the air in the room, and the the firmware will keep
* the heater on.
*
* If you get "Thermal Runaway" or "Heating failed" errors the
* details can be tuned in Configuration_adv.h
*/
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS // Enable thermal protection for all extruders
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED // Enable thermal protection for the heated bed
```
Note that Marlin 2.x has an additional protection for the heating chamber:
```
#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER // Enable thermal protection for the heated chamber
```
This should generally be enough to enable TRP on your printer, fine tuning can be done by changing the time constant and the temperature increase in the file [Configuration\_adv.h](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h) in the section:
```
//===========================================================================
//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
```
However, it is advised to not change these values unless you are absolutely certain; e.g. if your heating cartridge is not powerful enough and you are getting printer halts. When getting false-positive printer halts according to the [Marlin firmware](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration_adv.h) you could:
```
* If you get false positives for "Thermal Runaway", increase
* THERMAL_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS and/or THERMAL_PROTECTION_PERIOD
```
How to test if TRP is active on my printer?
-------------------------------------------
To test if thermal runaway protection is enabled on your printer, you can disconnect the heater element of the hotend or the heated bed while printing a print or sending temperature commands to the printer over USB using a terminal to send commands directly to the printer. You can disconnect the heater element while the printer is cold (before start) and also when the heater element is heating up. No heating of the nozzle will take place, so after the period defined by the time constant set in the firmware, the printer will halt if thermal runaway protection is enabled. Power down the machine and reconnect the wires, it is not advised to put them back in on a running machine, as one might touch the open wires; when the printer halted, you should power down or reset the printer anyways. If the printer did not halt, power it down as quickly as possible - TRP is disabled.
Further Considerations
----------------------
Besides activating thermal runaway protection, it is always a good idea to install a smoke detector and a fire extinguisher in the surroundings of the 3D printer: the smoke detector over it, the extinguisher within arms reach of the door leading to the room.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: What is Thermal Runaway?
------------------------
Let's look at a [Thermal Runaway Test (#2)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVjWg2vuWzk) performed by one <NAME>.
In this video the experimenter drove the heating element non-stop until disaster. The Nichrome wire in the heating element melts at about 1,400 °C. Only once it melts, will the circuit will break and the current stop. The aluminum heating block however, melts at 660.3 °C; long before the nichrome melts.
Thermal Runaway Protection
--------------------------
Thermal runaway protection is a piece of code in the firmware of the printer that checks to make sure that once power is being applied to the heater, the thermistor's resistance is changing within a specified frame (time and amount). This is the basic form of a [control loop](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Control_loop).
If the control system is implemented mechanically then it is called a [thermostat](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermostat), usually via a bimetal strip.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/15 | 1,326 | 4,570 | <issue_start>username_0: I've recently acquired a Flashforge Adventurer 3 and am having difficulty printing with ABS. The initial layers seem to lay and stay pretty well, though after a few more moments, one side will peel up from the heated platform. I'd like to know if anyone has optimal and tested temperatures for the use of ABS on my printer for the nozzle and platform?
I've used FlashPrint for slicing my objects using the following options:
* Supports: Disable,
* Raft: enable,
* Resolution: Standard,
* Layer Heights: 0.18 mm,
* First Layer Height: 0.27 mm,
* Perimeter Shells: 2,
* Top Solid Layers: 4,
* Bottom Solid Layers: 3,
* Fill Density: 15 %, Hexagon, Every 2 Layers,
* Print Speed: 60 mm/s,
* Travel Speed: 80 mm/s,
* Extruder: 225 °C,
* Platform: 70 °C,
* Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic,
* Nozzle Dia.: 0.4 mm<issue_comment>username_1: The most commonly used print temperature range for ABS is 220 to 240 °C with the major bulk around 230 °C. Some filaments are blended with inhibitors or PC, increasing their print temperature to up to 260 °C. Note that the color of the filament just as the brand can have an impact on the print temperature!
The most commonly used bed temperature for ABS start at least at 80 °C. [MatterHackers](https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/printing-tips-&-tricks:-abs-bed-adhesion) suggest 85-90 °C.
If your bed is particularly bad at getting adhesion, you might want to clean the bed of residues and fingerprints and relevel the bed. If that is not enough and you use a glass bed, a slurry of ABS in Acetone could come in handy. If you have a glass bed, the slurry is pretty much the best option.
Print cooling is a bane on ABS - the stuff shrinks too fast if cooled, resulting in the parts breaking loose!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If one edge is peeling up, the first layer isn't sticking. You may need to go through a first-layer troubleshooting process.
1. Is the bed flat and parallel to the Z-plane traced by the printhead?
2. Are you taking appropriate steps to attach the ABS to the bed?
3. Is the bed hot enough to reduce shrinkage of the printed ABS object?
For sticking ABS to the bed, I've had good luck with two approaches: a PEI-coated bed surface, or ABS slurry on a non-PEI surface.
For bed temperature, I usually run a little hotter: 100 °C.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: *Note that some of the other advice is general advice which is not applicable to the Adventurer 3.*
Temperature control is somewhat limited on Adventurer 3. The maximum bed temperature is 100 °C. There is no "glass bed". My Adventurer 3 is struggling to get the bed temperature to 98 °C. (The room temperature is 16 °C at the moment). I'm using Blu Stik glue on the bed to hold the print. Another possible problem is loss of heat out the side when the filament reel cover is off. The cover of mine is off because the reel of ABS does not fit in the bay. I've seen designs for filament bay covers with a hole in them to feed the filament in on Thingiverse. I'm considering building a box to put the printer in to keep the ambient temperature high.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Having the same issues with the Adventurer 3. I have printed the TUSH (The Ultimate Spool Holder) and cut a 3 cm hole in the door. This enables me to run the spool directly into the printer with the door closed unsing a minimum sized hole.
I am also printing the pieces at 235 °C nozzle temperature using glue as a heatbed adhesive.
The adventure 3 has no build plate adjustment apart for adjusting the nozzle height when it is centered. Does not leave you much room for adjustment.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: This I hope will help:
1. You must see which is the type of ABS you use, in terms of temperature. If you have an ABS material which melts at 220 - 250 °C it is difficult cu work with it using an Adventurer 3. For example I use Verbatim (220 - 240 deg Celsius) and that works well.
2. Bed temperature must be set between 90 - 100 degree Celsius.
3. For beginning, it is good to work with Raft activated.
4. Do not use "Cooling Fan Controls: Automatic", because the fan will work all the time. This is not good, it will peal your raft all the time because of the temperature difference between bed and fan blow. It is good to set the cooling fan "ON(when to pre-set height)" usually I use 1 mm to 1.5 mm max. This will start the cooling fan at the height you indicate.
5. Always use the cooling fan as mentioned before because your print will be much better with it, you'll see.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/03/17 | 2,317 | 8,133 | <issue_start>username_0: I have three stepper motors.
One Nema 17 - 2.4 ohm, the second smaller noname from color printer - 9.5 ohm and third the smallest noname from cdrom - 10.5 ohm.
I have connected them to arduino mega 2560 with ramps 1.4(set to 1/32 micro stepping) and drivers drv8825. [See my previous question.](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8480/errorprinter-halted-kill-called)
After some time (less than one minute) the first is cold. The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.
What can I do to fix it.<issue_comment>username_1: Problem statement
-----------------
Your RAMPs board is supplying your drivers all with similar voltages, with the basic settings calculated for a NEMA 17.
So, we got different Resistances R, so why do they heat differently?
Physics background: energy transformation and dissipation
---------------------------------------------------------
Resistance can be described as "friction of electrons in the conductor" to some degree. When electrons flow through a wire, then a current $I$ is trying to equalize a potential difference $U$. A flowing current transforms the kinetic energy of the electrons ($\propto U$) into an electromagnetic field and heat from the resistance. The electromagnetic field then is used to spin a rotor together with the magnets in the motor, which transforms the energy in the field into kinetic energy again. The end result is, that the kinetic energy of the electrons is transformed into the motion of the motor and heat.
Can we get the Current?
-----------------------
### OR: "What if there was no driver?"
How does Resistance figure into all this? Well, Ohms Law is there: $U=RI$. With it, one can solve how much current I flows through an aperture of known resistance R and voltage U. The operation of the circuits that contain a [CD stepper motor](http://robocup.idi.ntnu.no/wiki/images/c/c6/PL15S020.pdf) is usually 5 V, while 12 V is used for [NEMA 17](http://www.mosaic-industries.com/embedded-systems/microcontroller-projects/stepper-motors/specifications) and the typical steppers from Printer/scanner combos.
Those results wouldn't match the currents they are operated on as the motors are supplied via a motor driver chipset. We can look up the spec sheets to get a short glimpse of how they might dissipate heat in both constant voltage and constant current setups. Most stepper driver adjusts the voltage so we get constant current but there might be some cases one wants constant voltage. To estimate their heat generation, one needs...
Joules Formula of electric Heating
----------------------------------
### Constant Voltage case
Joules Formula of electric heating is written as $H=I^2Rt$, which gives us Energy in Joules. We can make it easier on us and drop the time to get the derivate power of electric heating. $P=\frac{H}{t}= I^2\ R= U \ I=\frac {U^2} {R}$
* $P={12\ \text V}\times {0.4\ \text A}=4.8\ \text {W}$
* $P=\frac{144\ \text V^2}{9.5\ \Omega}=15.14\ \text {W}$
* $P=\frac{25\ \text V^2}{10\ \Omega}=2.5\ \text {W}$
if we throw **12 V** at the poor small stepper though...
* $P=\frac{144\ \text V^2}{10\ \Omega}=14.4\ \text {W}$
How did the small one survive this torture? I have no idea!
### Constant Current case
Now, that is pretty much "constant voltage" but the stepper drivers used try to give always a set constant current to the motors. For most motors I have found, this is apparently in the area around 0.5 A, which gives us a better estimation
* $P={0.25\ \text A^2}\times {2.4\ \Omega}=0.6\ \text {W}$
* $P={0.25\ \text A^2}\times {9.5\ \Omega}=2.375\ \text {W}$
* $P={0.25\ \text A^2}\times {10.5\ \Omega}=2.625\ \text {W}$
If they all are operated at the same, set current (with adjusted voltage to match that), we get about a factor 4 for the heat generation on the middle and 4.3 on the CD stepper. Even with a higher current, the factors for heat dissipation are what is really interesting here.
Heating and temperature
-----------------------
Another small part of the answer is the mass of the motor and when it was touched. The thermal energy $E\_T$ in a whole object is *not directly* equal to the temperature $T$ of the object, it is just proportional to it but also the specific heat capacity $c$ of the body... all in all we get for an amount of energy $Q$ deposited in an object $\text Q = \text m\ \text c\ \Delta\text T$.
Assuming that c is equal for the motors, one can do a quick estimation with typical weights via $\Delta\text T \propto \frac H m$
A typical NEMA 17 motor weighs about 280 grams while the typical CD-drive stepper (PL15S-020-PNA9) weighs 19 grams.
You see, the smaller steppers not only dissipates more heat, it also heats up faster than the chunky NEMA 17. The reason why after a short time the smaller one with not that much more heating than the big one felt considerably hotter is, that there is less mass that needs to be heated up: it might be already at its maximum temperature while the middle one still is heating up.
All in all
----------
This is *not* a marlin issue but one from your material choice. Getting all similar motors makes motion control all the much easier, but you are not necessarily in danger of burning the motors.
To cool the motors...
* figure out what current I the smaller motors want to be operated on and adjust your setup to that, so to stay safe.
+ there are potentiometers for this on most boards.
* mount a heatsink on the motors, increasing their effective thermal mass and their ability to dissipate the heat to the room around by increasing the surface area.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> The second motor is hot. And the third is very hot. I can not even touch it.
>
>
>
This is to some degree, completely normal and expected. From the [datasheet for a typical NEMA 17 stepper](https://www.oyostepper.com/images/upload/File/17HS19-1684S1.pdf), the rated temperature rise is 80 °C above ambient and the maximum operating temperature is 130 °C (implying an ambient temperature of 50 °C). It is normal that stepper motors (in general) get a bit hot.
"Too hot to touch" is still relatively cold. 60 °C is already too hot to touch, and that's only a 40 °C rise above a 20 °C ambient temperature.
You can reduce the temperature rise of the motors by reducing the current they receive. The stepper driver has a small potentiometer that can be turned to adjust the current, but keep in mind that doing so will also reduce the torque of the motors and thus they might skip steps if you reduce the current too much.
*Technical details:* Note that stepper motor drivers used in 3D printers are *constant current* drivers, and the little potentiometer controls the current. If you had not paid much attention to this potentiometer, the drivers might all have been set for the same constant current of $1.0\ \text A$. The stepper driver would (to achieve the same constant current) send a higher voltage to the higher resistance motors. This would imply a power dissipation of $2.4\ \text W$ in the Nema 17, and a power dissipation of $10.5\ \text W$ in the small stepper. $2.4\ \text W$ in the Nema 17 would only heat it up by about $20\ °\text C$ above ambient. A dissipation of $10\ \text W$ in the small stepper, which also has much less surface area to dissipate the power, would heat it up by a lot (and probably, given that you didn't fry it, the current was set lower -- or a technical peculiarity limited the current given that the motor likely also has very low inductance).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Unless you have changed the factory stepper driver settings, they will all be set to deliver the same CURRENT to the motors. Stepper drivers operate as constant current supplies, so the voltage supply does not determine the power sent to the motor.
The power dissipation in a circuit is the current squared times the resistance. $P = I^2 R$. Because the current is constant, the 10.5-ohm motor will dissipate over four (4) times the power of the 2.4-ohm motor and will get much hotter more quickly.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/17 | 577 | 2,196 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a heavily modified DiscoEasy 200 from Dagoma, see picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XVfL4.jpg)
The heatbed is mounted on 4 springs, on top of the original plate. I made sure the X carriage was parallel to the table. I then tried to level the bed manually, with the 4 springs: I pushed the nozzle into each corner of the bed, and used the paper-gauge method to adjust the springs so that the bed would always be at the same distance of the nozzle. I then setup the Z-offset on the machine and tried to print a mainstream bed leveling test from thingiverse. I use a 4 points auto bed leveling.
And I have a systematic problem. **Every time** I try the bed leveling test, it seems the right side of the bed is lower than the left one. The front and rear right corners seem to be lower than on the left side. I tried to expand the springs of the front and rear right corners, but the auto bed leveling at the beginning of my prints re-introduces the problem.
The right side seems to be ~100 µm lower than what it should be. It's not a lot, but it's enough for prints to fail.
I can't figure out what the problem is. Do you have any idea? it's driving me crazy to not understand where the problem comes from.<issue_comment>username_1: Did you check if your bed is parallel to the gantry?
It can happen that after leveling one side and moving to the other the adjustment there puts the first side out of alignment - I level my bed by doing some couple turns
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As I understand your question:
1. You manually go through a leveling process and have it set up well.
2. You allow the printer to "auto-level".
3. You print, and the right side is too low by about 0.1mm.
Is it possible that the filament (which is on the left side) pulls up on the extruder when the extruder is on the right side? A small tug could lift the extruder making it appear the same as if the bed were too low.
If this seems possible, check for the extruder being vertically loose or wobbly. I've had filament pull forces cause slight head offsets on a home-brew printer.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/03/19 | 664 | 2,662 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to print a calibration cube from PLA using a 70 °C heated build platform on a Prusa i3 Pro W. This results in:
[)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G00Um.jpg))
Please explain why it prints like this.<issue_comment>username_1: There are multiple issues that cause this result.
First, your nozzle is to far from the bed. This can be seen by the curly deposited filament on the build plate (I guess that is the brim or the skirt). Please properly level the bed and position the nozzle at a distance of a plain A4 paper as best as possible (should be doable as you have a glass sheet that are usually very flat as a result of the production process to make glass).
The second problem you face is layer shift. You see that the squares are printed further and further to the left, the print head does not return to original position. Layer shift is usually caused by improper belt tension or a loose grub screw of the belt pulley. [This answer](/a/8167/) describes layer shifting in more detail. [This question](/q/8166/) may be helpful too, the answer contains some references to layer shifting.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The layer shift can also be caused by the stepper motor "skipping" when it hits an obstruction. The obstruction can be a loop or ridge of filament sticking up higher than it should be.
As Oscar suggests, the first step is always to make the first-layer-thickness be right. This is often called "bed leveling", but really it is making sure that the bed defines the z=0 plane that the firmware is expecting. If it isn't planar, if it isn't constant Z (ie., it tilts in any direction), or it isn't at zero, problems follow.
It seems to have mostly shifted in X, so start with that motor and belt. Have you adjusted the tension correctly? Is the motor current set correctly?
Other things can also cause trouble, such as:
1. A poorly mounted extruder that favors one direction
2. Bad slicer parameters that command movement faster than the printer's ability
3. Bad configuration parameters which call for acceleration or velocities beyond the printer's ability.
Are the slicer settings matched to the printer? If this is a commercial printer, are you using a profile from the manufacturer? If this is your design, or heavily modded, have you tried de-tuning the slicer parameters and/or the configuration parameters?
Any debugging proceeds from the first step, so adjust the Z=0 plane and see if you can print a uniform, single layer print covering the while bed. When that is good, you are most of the way to victory.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/03/20 | 966 | 3,656 | <issue_start>username_0: Can you think of a preferably cheap solution for me? I need a machine that pumps air out of my 3d printing enclosure, about 4 meters of pipe length. (From enclosure to window) What kind of pump or fan can pump air out of the enclosure (4m pipe length) at the lowest possible price and low volume?
I need it for cooling purposes and for better general air quality in my room after opening the printer enclosure.
It doesn't need to be top notch equipment, just enough for my purposes.<issue_comment>username_1: Well you can get a centrifugal fan and put it at either end of the pipe. You didn't specify a pipe diameter so I'll assume it's 1 inch. Just hook the pipe up to the exhaust. You will have to design and print an adapter.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bHByf.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Air flows from places of higher pressure to those of less.
Minimal setup
-------------
I propose to look at a very simple setup which works for short lengths of pipe:
* Choose if you want a radial fan of a direct passing fan. get one, measure the intake and the outlet side holes
* cut a fan inlet-sized hole directly into the back of the enclosure.
* mount your fan onto it, most likely with some kind of foam to keep the airstream in.
* get a flexible air vent hose (I have seen ~$10/10€ for a 100mm one) and measure the inner diameter.
* print an adapter from the fan outlet to the vent hose.
* mount the adapter, then the hose, use clamps to secure it.
* lead the air vent hose to the window and out or into a wall through.
Even if the airstream doesn't seem to be very fast, you could test it with smoke to see that it will blow out the air on the other end of the hose. The large diameter lets quite some air out with just a "gentle" airstream. This is not a very efficient system though, as we build up a pressure in the pipe the fan wors against.
efficiency gains
----------------
To gain efficiency, we should move the fan away from the machine and closer to the outlet. That means, we need to increase the fan power. If you can get your hand on, for example, an in-pipe motor, that would be a solution, but usually an expensive one. If you are good with electrics, you could use a blower from an electric cloths-drier. You might get a clothes-drier to strip the motor from really cheap, for example from a renovation, recycling facility or [Craigslist](https://craigslist.org/), e-bay or any other auction or classifieds-page.
Or you build your own from an electric motor (you could use your machine's power supply here), a housing made from wood and an impeller, which you can get as a "Dryer Blower Wheel" spare part for under $50. If you connect the power for its motor through a regulatable resistor, you could even control its spinning speed.
To cope with the suction, we need to use aluminium flex pipe on the arm between machine and exhaust.
go big
------
If you want to go *industrial* like if you want to run a laser cutter, you will need to go industrial in the vent size too. You use pretty much the same diameter aluminium flex pipe and a much stronger motor than the drier one, and you don't mount the motor directly to the machine back but somewhere downstream as it's rather loud. For what to look for in that case, I found a very good article [here](https://www.engraversjournal.com/article.php/2780/index.html). Note though, that this is not a small setup, but you could possibly vent a whole batch of printers through one pump, using some airstream cutoffs to control which ones get currently evacuated.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/21 | 1,833 | 6,845 | <issue_start>username_0: I have some flexible PLA filament ([https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKSSA4E/](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00VKSSA4E), presumably a mix of PLA with some platicizer) that's supposed to be easy to print with settings similar to regular PLA. I've seen recommendations to disable retraction, and indeed I get huge failures to extrude at all for a while after retraction if it's enabled. But with retraction disabled, I get stringing all over the place, and since the material isn't brittle, it's really difficult to remove.
I'm using a bed temp of 60 and print temp of 220, increased from 210 for normal PLA since I had trouble getting it to adhere at lower temp. Printer is Creality Ender 3. Using CuraEngine for slicing. The extruder is feeding the material fine; there's no kinking going on or anything.
Where should I start trying to improve this? Might retraction work with a really really slow print speed or greatly reduced retraction distance? Or are there other ways to avoid stringing?<issue_comment>username_1: You could enable `combing` in the slicer. Combing not only prevents retracts, it also uses already laid down paths for movement from one to the other location and as such reduces the amount of stringing.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The right path seems to be enabling retraction, but tuning the retraction and print speed settings. I started out by dropping all speed settings to 30. With retraction disabled, this turned the stringing into solid walls between paths, with only a tiny gap at the very start of the wall, right after the extruder stopped:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/StzqN.jpg)
This suggested that the sudden drop in pressure at the nozzle is cutting off the string momentarily. Back to that thought in a bit.
Independently of the pressure thought, I decided to turn retraction back on, but with *really* slow retraction speed. This helped a lot, but probably not the way I expected; I think what it did was give the nozzle time to ooze at the point where retraction happens, rather than in the travel path. I also turned off `infill_before_walls`, so that the retraction and potential oozing would happen in the infill region rather than walls, and increased the travel speed way up to 200 to take best advantage of the moment where oozing is interrupted.
At this point, I'm getting almost-acceptable results with `retraction_retract_speed` set to 5 (vs default 25), default retraction amount, and `speed_travel` of 200:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5MSpu.jpg)
Back to the pressure idea, I'm thinking that the right solution is probably to perform the retraction concurrently with the travel, keeping some negative pressure the whole time, and possibly jerking the extruder back further just before hitting the travel destination to prevent a string from forming there. Cura has no features to do anything like that, but it shouldn't be difficult as post-processing on the gcode. I might try prototyping it like that to see if it works.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: OK, this turned out to be really idiotic. The main source of the problem was Cura's custom start gcode for my printer (Ender 3), maybe duplicated for other printers too: it crams a massive amount of filament through the extruder to prime it. With flexible filament, this doesn't actually extrude most of it; rather, it just builds up as pressure in the bowden, which makes the first few [tens of] layers ooze like crazy, and then the hot nozzle picks up the ooze and drags it all over the place, and yay, stringing everywhere!
A previous version of this answer (see edit history) described a lot of options I was using to try to improve things, some of them rather dubious. Really, the core of the matter, which can manifest in lots of ways, is that if pressure builds up in the extruder due compression of the material being easier than forcing it through the nozzle, it will ooze during travel, or as a glob prior to travel during ineffective retraction, and either way it will eventually lead to catastrophic stringing. So to solve this, I needed to address all the ways it could happen.
* First was the start gcode. I dropped the extruded material amount over 200mm for the priming from 15mm to 9mm (about 90% nominal material needed rather than 150%) and edited the custom end gcode to revert all but 1mm of the retraction it does, after homing. This reduces the need for wacky over-priming at print start, and makes the state after printing roughly match the state after loading filament, so that print results are independent of whether filament was just loaded or not.
* Second, pressure can build up again if the extrusion rate is too high for the material, nozzle size, and temperature. At 30 mm/s print rate and 0.3 mm layers, I found I need a ridiculously high temperature like 235 °C to keep it flowing. This in turn produced a lot of sagging of overhangs, so really 0.3 mm layers seem to need significantly slower printing, defeating the purpose. 0.2-0.25 mm seems to flow marginally ok at 30 mm/s and 215°C, which is better behaved with regard to overhangs, and fine at 225 °C.
* I'd noticed previously (in the previous version of this answer) a problem with layer adhesion with temperatures lower than 225 °C. This was not actually a layer adhesion problem but rather an underextrusion problem, the same one causing stringing.
* The retraction amount still needs to be sufficient to account for the compression of the material in the bowden, plus enough to get it backed out of the hotend. I seem to need at least 15 mm, compared to 5 mm for plain PLA. Note that retraction min travel needs to be disabled (set to 0) to prevent skipping retraction for short moves, where stringing will be the worst.
* Higher retraction speeds seem to work better, and without them the 15 mm retraction is miserably slow. However, I found that my printer's default limits on extruder feedrate and jerk were very low. Adding `M203 E200` and `M205 E25` to the custom start gcode made it honor my requests for faster retraction, and doesn't seem to have any ill effects.
In summary, the settings that work for me are:
* All print speed settings: 30 mm/s or less
* Travel speed: 250 mm/s
* Retraction amount 15 mm
* Retraction speed: 150 mm/s
* Retraction combing: all
* Retraction hop: disabled
* Retraction min travel: 0 mm
* Temperature: 235 for 0.3 mm layers, 215 for 0.2 mm layers
And the results:
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/03/21 | 1,139 | 3,784 | <issue_start>username_0: I equipped my Makerbot Replicator 2x with [silent stepper drivers TMC2100](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Makerbot-Replicator-2-3D-Printer-Part-Makerbot-TMC2100-V1-0-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Module-With-Heatsink/32870918354.html). According to the product page I reduced Vref from 127 (factory default) to 25 in the printer settings as well as in my start G-code.
With this I get horrible layer shifting (a few millimeters!), even if I reduce print- and travel-acceleration to 300. The layer shifting is mostly happening on the Y-axis, but also on X-axis. Not only layer shifting was happening, also the extruder-motors lost many steps.
To fight this problem I increased the Vref little by little. At around 70 for X and Y axis (and 50 for extruders) all layer shift- and extrusion problems were gone. Also I had to install a dedicated fan for the stepper drivers, because they got very hot.
I was happy with this solution for about 10 minutes, then I noticed that the stepper motors are getting so hot I burned my fingertips by touching them. My guess for the motor temperature would be 80~90 °C.
So my question is: Are those TMC2100 stepper driver unsuitable for my usecase somehow or am I missing something? Is there a way to get the 3D printer silent while not overheating?
---
On behalf of advice in the comments, I mounted some [heat sinks](https://www.amazon.de/Schwarz-Aluminium-K%C3%BChlk%C3%B6rper-Heizk%C3%B6rper-Heatsink/dp/B07C7SJHTH) and measured the temperature via an [IR-thermometer](https://www.amazon.de/Thermometer-ber%C3%BChrungslos-Temperaturmessger%C3%A4t-Temperaturmesser-Beleuchtung/dp/B01I4TB2IM/). With the old original stepper drivers I get 60 °C for the Y-axis and 66 °C for the X-axis. With TMC2100 it is 86 °C for both. (Each temperature measured at the heatsink)<issue_comment>username_1: Most Stepper drivers will have lots of energy passing through them so it is crucial to having a moderately sized heatsink to cool them off otherwise they will get too hot. Most stepper drivers found online come with heatsinks but you could search online for mini heatsinks.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: What constitutes too hot? A Hybrid stepper motor operating at 80 degrees is normal. They dissipate heat via their mounting plate (which should not be plastic), otherwise you may need to use active cooling. Now if the motors are dying from the heat then you have a problem.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Using stealth chopping and Klipper "interpolation" reduces torque (According to the Klipper configuration documentation). If you turn off both of these options for x and y steppers regardless of what firmware you are using, you may be able to reduce the current and get the same results (avoid layer shifting and get the same torque).
However, see username_2's answer since your motors can likely operate rather hot and be within the normal operating range of the motors. If your current temperature is within range, you may be able to keep stealth chopping on and keep the current you are using. Regarding your concerns for plastic parts, the glass transition temperature of ABS is around 105 degrees C ([https://www.lorric.com/en/WhyLORRIC/Material/material-chemical-resistance-chart-ABS#:~:text=Acrylonitrile%20butadiene%20styrene%20(ABS)%20is,has%20no%20true%20melting%20point.](https://www.lorric.com/en/WhyLORRIC/Material/material-chemical-resistance-chart-ABS#:%7E:text=Acrylonitrile%20butadiene%20styrene%20(ABS)%20is,has%20no%20true%20melting%20point.)) so you're probably OK on that front. If you're concerned that the temperature is higher than 80 C, consider getting a laser thermometer and check the temperature while the printer is operating (and after it has been going for a while).
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/03/22 | 1,025 | 4,016 | <issue_start>username_0: **Facts:**
1. Breaking down (or melting) plastic creates nanoparticles.1
2. 3D printers melt plastic.2
3. Therefore, 3D printers make nanoparticles.3
4. Nanoparticles are evil.*[citation needed]*
Wait, What?
---
1. [Plastic waste disintegrates into nanoparticles](https://phys.org/news/2018-12-plastic-disintegrates-nanoparticles.html)
2. [How do 3D printers work?](https://www.explainthatstuff.com/how-3d-printers-work.html)
3. [Characterization of particle emissions from consumer fused deposition modeling 3D printers](https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02786826.2017.1342029)
---
*I know* that 3D printers make nanoparticles. But is that actually a safety concern? There are multiple [products](https://www.zimple3d.com/zimpure/) on the market today that will suck up your nanoparticles for you. However, I can't see an obvious danger in the particles themselves. Who decided that these nanoparticles are bad for your health? 3D printers put out plenty of heat too, but nobody thinks that's dangerous.
So my question: **Does anyone know of sources/research articles of the possible harmful effects of nanoparticles created by 3D printing?** I'm looking for real scientific research. Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: At the time of this writing (March 2019), I don't think theres any study on the health effects of nanoparticles emmitted by 3D Printers. The general consensus seems to be right now that those particles are potentially harmful, as they build up in the lungs, and therefore precautions should be taken.
The reason why nobody has yet determined if and how harmful they are, might be that those adverse health effects are probably long term, and hard to isolate. Plastic is everywhere today - it's not that easy to just study harmful health effects caused by 3D printers.
But we can say for sure that plastic in our bodies isn't ideal and can cause damage, so we should avoid it.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Perhaps FDM 3D printing does emit nanoparticles during the process of printing, but the syllogism does not prove it or even suggest it.
Parenthetically, your headline is not actually addressed by the body of your question. As an answerer, I have been misled by other questions which seemed clear enough from the headline, but where the question body actually posed a completely different question.
Double parenthetically, your final question does align with your headline. The discussion of 3D printing and the assertion that it is dangerous is not actually relevant to the question at all. It might be better to remove the references to 3D printing and post this in another SE group focused on human health.
The first point, that breaking down or *melting* plastic produces nano-particles is not supported by your reference. The reference refers to the mechanical breakdown of particles in a simulated oceanic environment and does not mention melting. The reference is silent on the possibility of melting producing and emitting nanoparticles.
In an FDM 3D printer, the melting takes place in an enclosed capsule, the hot-end. The plastic is heated to the point where the viscosity is low enough that the pressure of the unsoftened plastic filament pushes the softened material out of the hot-end through the nozzle. Upon exiting the nozzle the temperature falls, and the plastic begins to recrystallize.
I have seen no evidence of outgassing during printing with dry filament, other than an odor. Usually melting joins separated objects, pellets, and larger particles in a unified liquid state.
Without specific testing, one can not say there is no risk of nanoparticles emitted by FDM 3D printing. Ventilation remains a useful method of reducing local exposure to nanoparticles and odors. Airborne risks are one of the many risks to be considered, but I have no evidence that they are more serious than the burn risk, the fire risk, or the risk of a stroke from high blood pressure induced by failed prints.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/03/23 | 410 | 1,487 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently I have been doing more complicated math in OpenSCAD and I have run into something that I find strange. Take a simple math expression: `2 / 2 / 2`. By any programming language this will equal 0.5 (1/2), and OpenSCAD agrees. Something like this: `2 / -2 / 2` should also be -0.5 for the same reason. However, OpenSCAD thinks this is -2. That is `echo(2 / -2 / 2);` gives `ECHO: -2`. My calculator, other programming languages (and myself) all say its -0.5.
Is this a quirk of OpenSCAD, or am I missing something obvious?<issue_comment>username_1: I suspect the behavior you are seeing is an undocumented feature (aka, bug) of OpenSCAD. I've found in the latest stable release that if the - is placed on either end, the result is -0.5, but in the middle, my results are the same as yours. Surrounding the -2 with parentheses results in a correct answer, however.
It appears that the parentheses turns a mathematical operation into a signed integer. It follows that the operations without the parentheses is right to left:
2/2 = 1, negative 1 with the minus, 2/-1 = -2
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I [filed this issue as a bug with the OpenSCAD project](https://github.com/openscad/openscad/issues/2894), and there is now [a fix merged into master](https://github.com/openscad/openscad/pull/2895), as well as a test case to prevent regression. The latest nightly builds should handle this correctly from here on out.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/25 | 1,384 | 5,319 | <issue_start>username_0: 3D-printing newbie here. I have a Geeetech's Prusa i3 mk2 B.
I'm trying to print this: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1358311>
That's a mold, with 2 external parts and a core. The exterior prints wonderful. But the core is too messy. Take a look at this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HrrKz.png)
What riddles me is that the side parts, and the pole's base, print fine; so this does not look like a bad calibrated printer, but something else entirely. My guess is this is some precise tuning I don't know yet.
I've been trying to print that little pole without success for over a week now. Tried all this:
* Changing the slicer program (I've used Ultimaker Cura and Slic3r prusa edition)
* Tuning the e-steps for avoiding over-extrusion.
* Tuning the z-steps, so the nozzle doesn't melt the last layer when printing a new one.
* In the same sense, changed the nozzle heat.
* Tried lots of different layering, speed, walls, bridging, and quirks configurations.
So far, the best I got is a little pole not-too-deformed so I can make my part anyway, even when the pole is not well printed. But after seeing lots of videos and reading lots of tips online, I still don't understand how to tune my print for that simple little pole.
Other that tips, what I would really like to ask is if somebody has a name for that problem I'm facing, so it would be much more easy to search for my tuning options.
So... any clue how to fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: Basically, **you print too hot (and fast) without enough cooling**. The deformed small pin in your image is a perfect example of depositing new layers onto too hot (not cooled down enough) prior layers.
You can easily solve this by printing two identical parts spaced apart from each other. This allows the layers to cool before the next is deposited.
From [mastering Ultimaker Cura](https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21932-mastering-cura):
>
> When printing a series of small parts, print them all together. The
> travel time between the parts is often enough time for the layers to
> cool without changing your settings.
>
>
>
If you do want this to print as a single piece, you need to:
* **tune down hotend temperature** (use the minimum temperature that gives good print results, printing a [temperature tower](/q/7345) will help to determine this),
* **increase minimal layer time** (may not always work as speed will not be lowered under the minimum printing speed) and
* **increase part cooling fan percentage** (or print a better fan duct that allows for more cooling air to reach the print; many fan ducts are too convergent, the pressure increase is then too big for the fan to effectively push air through it).
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The thin core gathers too much heat in the printing process. If you need to print slender objects, either:
* Print several. This is the most simple solution and best for beginners.
* Increase cooling. A better cooling solution or increased fan speed often can help to get thin or delicate objects printed.
* set minimum layer time to slow down the printer automatically on layers with low cross-sections. If too small, it could pause on the edge of the print, which could leave scorch marks.
* If you know a little more about your printer and got your retraction dialed in, you can go more advanced: set `minimum layer time` to 10 to 15 seconds **and** activate the accompanying Z-hop. This will prevent the scorch marks, but you might need to make sure you don't string.
This way the part has a chance to cool down between printing layers.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The other answers have addressed the heat problem. The other risk is that a rod printed vertically like this is prone to snap, because the weakest axis is between layers.
I often rotate pieces like this and print with the rod horizontal. You then have to remove the support and/or brim material, and probably do a bit of sanding to get it properly round, but the final part will be much more reliable (not break).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: I'm sorry for the long time I took to answer, but the ammount of NEW problems I faced since started this question was so big that wanted to write a list of them before answering my own question. I've finally also desisted from the list, as the problems tends towards infinity.
Simple version: printing more than a single item did the trick, as several people proposed here. But then the piece broke when tried to remove it from the hot bed, as somebody else also warned me here. By that time I tried a temp tower, had to recalibrate almost the whole printer, had to also relubricate it, had to learn some tricks about sticking and de-sticking pieces from the bed, tried several different glues, started to fine-tune my slicings, and so on and so on... man, 3D printing is laborious.
But I wanted to let this link here for all the fellow newbies out there reading this.
<https://all3dp.com/1/common-3d-printing-problems-troubleshooting-3d-printer-issues/>
That was exactly the kind of document I was looking for online as a newcomer to this world, and I'm sure it will be useful for a lot of people.
Thanks everybody.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/03/25 | 778 | 2,928 | <issue_start>username_0: I bought new yellow PLA filament from XYZ (1.75 mm).
Over the past I have printed many objects with my da Vinci 1.0 (ABS only). I found that while the brim is being printing (using default configuration of XYZWare; the da Vinci machines give the user very little control over print parameters, if I remember correctly the temperatures are controlled by the chip in the filament cassette), filament stopped extruding from my extruder immediately. However, ABS can be printed properly.
Could anyone tell me how can I work around ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TJPFb.jpg "Part of brim that stopped printing")<issue_comment>username_1: That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.
You can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing *more material*, which typically means one or all of the following:
1. Faster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)
2. Thicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter "normal" thickness.
3. Thicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well.
If you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically "push" the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam.
As a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:
>
> Also, [a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6092/) might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44
>
>
> The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 |
2019/03/25 | 624 | 2,343 | <issue_start>username_0: At the moment the outside surface temperature is around 30 °C. Can I put my PETG spools outside with a fan in order to dry them cheaply?<issue_comment>username_1: That looks pretty bad for a number of reasons. If you've got an all-metal hotend, you can be pretty sure that your PLA issues are probably at least partially cooling-related. I'd recommend you try and find a better fan duct design for your hotend, if possible, and possibly upgrade to a better fan.
You can temporarily skirt around cooling issues with PLA in all-metal hotends by printing *more material*, which typically means one or all of the following:
1. Faster print speeds (if your printer can move quickly enough and has good acceleration)
2. Thicker lines! Surprisingly useful. If you don't want to sacrifice print detail, then make the infill lines ridiculously thick, the inner wall lines fairly thick, and the single outer perimeter "normal" thickness.
3. Thicker layer height. Normally I printed at 0.2mm like everyone else, but with PLA in my all-metal hotend, I had to up it to 0.3 with fatter lines as well.
If you can consistently keep the filament going through the hotend instead of lingering inside of it, you can basically "push" the melt zone back down into the heater block where it belongs, instead of it creeping upwards and resulting in a jam.
As a side note, the rippled surface of your brim there looks very similar to what used to happen to mine; the ripples are usually indicative of some form of over-extrusion on the first layer. I'd maybe look into checking your Z offset to make sure your print nozzle is far enough away from the bed, and maybe also check your flow rate is accurate for that particular filament. Check the filament diameter in a few places with a micrometer if you have access to one, and compare to your ABS prints to see if maybe you should adjust the flow rate down a few percent in your slicer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The answer to this specific instance appeared in the comments:
>
> Also, [a thorough cleaning of the nozzle/hotend](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6092/) might also be a good idea to get rid of all the stuck ABS residue inside. – 0scar Mar 26 at 8:44
>
>
> The problem solved !, my ABS is stuck in nozzle !!! – 3ORZ Apr 25 at 6:52
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 |
2019/03/25 | 1,168 | 3,947 | <issue_start>username_0: I am currently running my Tronxy X5s with a MKS Gen L board. So far I have not ran the heat bed over 50 degrees C since I have only printed with PLA so far. I plan to try PETG and/or ABS in the near future and I have a spare power supply 12V/360W laying around.
When I first got my printer I purchased [this](http://www.lerdge.com/prod_view.aspx?TypeId=12&Id=212&FId=t3:12:3) external MOSFET board after reading about X5s "upgrades", but so far have not used it.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u6M16.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QiqlH.jpg)
My plan is to now run the heat bed using a separate power supply than the one running my control board using the external MOSFET to switch it. Since this power supply will only be powering the bed, I would like to bump up the voltage, via trim-pot somewhere from 12V-15V, to gain some watts per square inch on my heat bed.
Will this MOSFET isolate the heat bed circuit from my control board to allow it be ran at a higher voltage? Is it safe to run the power supply/heat bed at a higher voltage than it is rated for a significant amount of time?<issue_comment>username_1: Short answer YES. You can run it from a different power supply at a higher voltage. Also it has a PC817 Optical isolator (for some reason) therefore the second power supply and your main board should not be electrically connected at all.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Yes you can, but you should be aware that **running at higher voltage implies that the current also increases**. Your wiring and connectors to the heated platform have to be able to transport that extra current (e.g. the wires, the ones I got where very low quality, and [connectors](https://3dprint.wiki/reprap/anet/a8/replace_hb_connector) that came with my Anet A8 where not even rated for the standard load, let alone an even higher load). You need to properly solder the leads to the heated bed and use proper terminal clamps ([C-clamps or forks](/a/6385/)) to connect the cables to the MOSFET module. Even running the basic voltage this can happen:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJdZU.jpg)
Let's assume the heated bed has a resistance (R) of about 1.4 Ω. A voltage (U) of 12 V would result in a current (I) of $ I=\frac{U}{R}=\frac{12}{1.4} = 8.6\ A$ (Ampere). Running the same bed at 15 V would result in a current of $ \frac{15}{1.4} = 10.7\ A$. The power would increase from about 102 Watt to 161, which is a 60 % increase of a 25 % increase in voltage.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: For reference,I done tracing this module as shown.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ols3z.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/r8ao6.jpg)
So you can use isolated power supply for load.
Also you can use up to 24V without any problem.
Edit:
This module still work with higher voltage up to 24V. But according to question. Using higher voltage supply more than rated is same as my question [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15263/can-we-apply-more-voltage-to-a-pcb-heated-bed-to-get-faster-heating).
For summary. Adding more voltage to resistive load results to higher current flow. Recheck your wire and connectors for current rate so you will know the limit of voltage you can go with.
One more thing, mosfet can fail like short circuit. At this situation the temperature of bed cannot be controlled.
At normal voltage rate even we left the bed connected to power supply the temperature will rising to about 100C if you add more voltage it will go higher than that can the heated bed will broken or burned or start to fires
Upvotes: -1 |
2019/03/27 | 627 | 2,298 | <issue_start>username_0: I printed a raspberry pi case from PLA. [This case](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1549574).
I fitted it to my raspberry pi and now the wifi keeps dropping out. When I take it out of the case there is no problem.
The filament I am using is Black, 3D Hero 1.75mm.
Has anyone experienced anything like this before, if so how did you work around it?
Is it common with PLA is there another material that wouldn't cause an issue?<issue_comment>username_1: Typically the black pigments in polymers are mineral based. If you are having true WiFi issues then it sounds like your filiment is using black iron oxide also called [magnetite](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetite) for the black pigment. This is the same material they use in radar absorbing paints which would make sense as to why you are having radio related issues.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It could be several problems
* Shielding from the material
* Heat
* Mechanical load from the casing
* A metal screw next to the antenna
To learn more about the problem, comparing different configurations is the only way to got (As you guessed, it might be shielding, so you could see how the same shape works when printed in white PLA). Since comparing wifi signals is very prone to random changes, it is important to get better information than "random drops". Signal strength is a much better indicator.
A wifi signal test is shown here, comparing a bare PI with one in a aluminum case
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26OxCwEHoTk>
Indeed the aluminum case reduces the signal strength, as it was to expect.
For a faster comparison you can use the command 'iwconfig'. It usually shows a signal strength (Tx-Power)
```
> iwconfig
wlp4s0 IEEE 802.11 ESSID:off/any
Mode:Managed Access Point: Not-Associated Tx-Power=20 dBm
Retry short limit:7 RTS thr=2347 B Fragment thr:off
Power Management:off
```
A possible workaround might be to add an external antenna. The raspberry pi actually has solder points to add an antenna connector.
<https://www.mictronics.de/2017/10/raspberry-pi-3-with-external-antenna/>
However it might be simpler to produce several iterations of casings and compare the signal strength, depending on availability to SMD soldering.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/28 | 769 | 2,829 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been asked to come up with a grant proposal for a new 3D printer. My question is:
>
> What supporting components and training would be most beneficial to support educational use in a K-8 school? In other words what things am I missing in my list below?
>
>
>
Specific suggestions for things on my list that I may not have thought of are welcome too. A specific tool, etc.
The suggestion was to include a base proposal with stretch goals that include everything needed.
My current ideas are:
* 3D Printer - option of a Prusa Mk3 or a Railcore 300ZLT. Possibly add another Prusa Mk3 kit as a stretch goal for students to assemble.
* Replacement and optional parts such as a hardened nozzle.
* Training and professional development
* Filament - a variety of kinds such as PLA, ABS, flexible, conductive, etc.
* Dry box or supplies to make one.
* HEPA filter.
* Enclosure - heated and/or soundproofed.
* Maintenance tools or supplies. Lubricant, etc.<issue_comment>username_1: Typically the black pigments in polymers are mineral based. If you are having true WiFi issues then it sounds like your filiment is using black iron oxide also called [magnetite](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetite) for the black pigment. This is the same material they use in radar absorbing paints which would make sense as to why you are having radio related issues.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It could be several problems
* Shielding from the material
* Heat
* Mechanical load from the casing
* A metal screw next to the antenna
To learn more about the problem, comparing different configurations is the only way to got (As you guessed, it might be shielding, so you could see how the same shape works when printed in white PLA). Since comparing wifi signals is very prone to random changes, it is important to get better information than "random drops". Signal strength is a much better indicator.
A wifi signal test is shown here, comparing a bare PI with one in a aluminum case
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26OxCwEHoTk>
Indeed the aluminum case reduces the signal strength, as it was to expect.
For a faster comparison you can use the command 'iwconfig'. It usually shows a signal strength (Tx-Power)
```
> iwconfig
wlp4s0 IEEE 802.11 ESSID:off/any
Mode:Managed Access Point: Not-Associated Tx-Power=20 dBm
Retry short limit:7 RTS thr=2347 B Fragment thr:off
Power Management:off
```
A possible workaround might be to add an external antenna. The raspberry pi actually has solder points to add an antenna connector.
<https://www.mictronics.de/2017/10/raspberry-pi-3-with-external-antenna/>
However it might be simpler to produce several iterations of casings and compare the signal strength, depending on availability to SMD soldering.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/03/30 | 1,048 | 3,768 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a 3D printer and I have printed some models with castable resin. When I burn one of these models in the oven and then do the metal casting, the surface of the metal piece is not smooth.
I did a test with a pan. I put a model of wax and a model of castable resin to heat in a pan, and the wax model melts, but the resin model don't.
The resin I have is the following:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/o07nG.jpg)
What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting?
Thanks for your help.<issue_comment>username_1: Traditional lost molds.
-----------------------
The reason many jewelers use wax for making the molds for lost mold casting is, that it has (compared to plastic molding materials) a very low melting and boiling point, allowing to create molds with much lower temperature equipment.
A variant of green sand casting is done with materials that very quickly decompose in contact with the molten metal or that burn out after setting fire to them. Very common in this context is foamed styrene. Styrene melts and burns easily so it is easy to use in this way.
PLA has been used in some experiments as a positive and then molten out in a baking oven. It and other printing filaments are usually thermoplastics, so melting them out is similar to wax.
Resin is not soft wax or a thermoplastic.
-----------------------------------------
No, in fact, most resins are a duroplastic, meaning that they don't melt.
If you print a positive from resin and then make a mold from that for lost mold casting, you go the traditional way. But most resins don't melt out the way wax does, and on contact with molten metal don'T evaporate the way wax residue does. You got to properly *burn* out the remains of the cured resin at a higher temperature and for a longer time than the wax as the melting point is much higher - use a proper burning oven. A proper burning oven in this relation reaches something like an email oven (1100 °C) or a clay burning oven (up to 1800 °C)
Putting the molds with the opening down into one of these ovens at high temperature should help a lot. Make sure to put a spacer and a tray below to allow better airflow and get the resin out.
Chemical Club.
--------------
Besides heat to destroy the resin, most resins could be solved by very highly aggressive chemicals. Which chemical works highly depends on what the resin actually is - if it is [epoxy resin](https://www.microtonano.com/TIN-Removing-Cured-Epoxy.php) it would be the highly toxic CH2Cl2 while [polyester resin](https://www.epoxy.com/Epoxy_Chemical_Resistant_Chart.aspx) is soluble in isopropanol and sulphuric acid.
Cold alternative?
-----------------
If your product is to be made of a two-component resin or a ceramic that can be shaped cold and that sustains form, then you might also look at silicone molding. This is not an alternative for most metal castings. Among the very few exceptions is pewter, as PunishedPropsAcademy and Evan&Katelyn [showed in their video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umtYcUdOv3U) and there are high temp silicones around that could be used repeatedly for pewter.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Factually, the correct process is to heat up the mold hot enough to evaporate the positive.
In [investment casting](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Investment_casting) the process to remove the wax or plastic positive is called the `"Dewax"` and `"Burnout preheating"`.
The answer to your question depends on the material you use to generate a negative mold of the positive product. E.g. many silicate based materials require up to about 1100 °C to fully burnout all residue before pouring in the liquid metal.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/04/01 | 1,532 | 6,168 | <issue_start>username_0: I know I did something stupid. I just had to have a SLA 3d printer. The issue being I live in a one bedroom apartment. In the months of owning it I have made lots of amazing pieces, I also for the first time in my life have not only allergies, but sever allergies. I thought I had the flu, and has been most of the last 2-3 months. After making the connection to the symptoms appearing after I got the printer, I sealed the resin vat and removed all cleaning station items from my living space. I had thought I had done "enough" by sealing the printers door, and making sure I could not smell any chemicals, and getting a chemical grade air filter.
It's been 2 days, and I'm instantly recovering from my symptoms, and have discontinued allergy medication.
Other than not own this type of printer, what kind of setup do I need so that I can safely use this printer? Does anyone sell enclosures or setups for businesses or homes that will solve this issue?
I can move the cleaning station to my balcony, as it also has a sink and space. Placing the printer even in an enclosure outside would be hard due to the humidity and extreme pollen we get here.<issue_comment>username_1: One of the options you have would be to create a negative pressure in your working area. This would be accomplished by installing a fan with the flow direction to the outside. The inside portion of the fan should have ducting that terminates near your printer. You could place your printer in something elaborate, or in something as simple as a large cardboard box and attach the ducting to the box.
As the fan operates, air would be pulled from an open window elsewhere in the room and travel into the cardboard box. It would carry fumes from the printer to the fan and out of the building.
I have a CO2 laser which generates large amounts of smoke. Part of the installation includes a powerful blower not placed in the window, but with ducting from the machine and to a panel in the window frame. I used scrap plastic to make a baffle that accepted the ducting while blocking the rest of the window.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/95i9o.jpg)
Squirrel-cage blowers provide powerful airflow but you may not need something as expensive as a laser cutter blower. A boat bilge blower might be sufficient to provide clearing airflow for your printer.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XeNCj.jpg)
Additionally, a small bilge blower such as that shown above will use smaller diameter ducting, which would be easier to find and less expensive. The bilge blower in the picture provides for an in and out attachment, while the not-really-a-laser-cutter blower in the picture does not. A true laser cutter blower has ducting attachments for input and output.
One characteristic of this type of clearing system is that outside air will possibly change the temperature of the room/building. During the winter, the rest of my house got noticeably cooler while the exhaust fan was operating.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: First things first: Resin is very aggressive. It can very easily make you hypersensitive, even to the fumes of it. So step 1 is easy:
Limit exposure
--------------
Wear gloves when working with resin. As you live with your printer in the same room, bottle up the resin right after use and only open it during use to prevent buildup over time and exposure. To further reduce the exposure, leave the room while printing if possible and ventilate the room after bottling the resin again. Possibly even wear breathing protection during operation.
Enclose and seal the machine
----------------------------
To keep the vapors away from you, the machine needs to be enclosed airtight. Any lids need to get a seal, non-opening joints of the frame need to be sealed with a sealant like silicone. Often it is hard to retrofit an enclosure to seal up the workspace.
If you want to enclose the full machine, I suggest using glass sheets and silicone sealant for the whole inside. Brace the construction from the outside with L-profiles along the corners and joints. The most tricky part will be the opening hatch and wiring/ducting access hole. The opening seal needs a sealing lid all around that gets compressed on closing the machine up and some kind of lock to keep it this way. The air filtration and wire access are just hard to make because of their circular shape. You might want to use a wooden or metal base plate, so it is best to put ventilation through the base. In case of wood, afterward coat the inside surface with a thin layer of an airtight material, such as epoxy resin or silicone.
Low presssure operation by ventilating the machine
--------------------------------------------------
The next best thing to isolating the machine workspace from the air completely is to make it a low-pressure operation. This means that you evacuate the air from the machine. The imperfect seals now work against a high pressure outside and low pressure inside, meaning that the flow in any non-sealed spot only knows one direction: into the machine.
### Ventilation outside...
[Fred's answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/8595/8884) provides good basics on how to do this in general by using parts for Laser evacuation. This is also the most space-economic way.
### ...and filtering.
But there are (partial) indoor solutions even, based on ventilating the air from the printer into a multi-stage air filter could reduce or eliminate the amount of chemical exposure. This is not a slim piece of foam, it is a boxy setup with about 3 to 6 stages of filtering. Among dry-filters, a paint-filter in combination with an active coal one should eliminate a large portion of irritants from the stream, but might still need to be vented outside to reduce exposure even more. A 'wet' air filter, where the exhaust of the machine is pearled through a basin of a cleaning liquid (often water or a solvent like isopropylic alcohol) like in an aquarium could help to catch even more chemicals but is bulky.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/02 | 1,999 | 7,410 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm having a problem where the relative dimensional error of cylinders is rapidly increasing as the absolute size decreases. Printing a calibration stack of cylinders of diameters 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, and 3 mm, they come out undersized by 5%, 5.3%, 7%, 8%, 10%, and 13%, respectively, as measured by a digital caliper. Cubes exhibit a less severe version of the same pattern: 2.5%, 3%, 5%, 4%, 5%, 7%. The cylinders are generated with OpenSCAD using `$fn=180`, i.e. they're actually extrusions of 180-gons, so the error should not be caused by poor chord approximation; indeed, measuring projections of the model, or reading the gcode and accounting for nozzle width, everything looks right.
Printer is Ender 3, using PLA at 210. Slicing with CuraEngine.
Could this be caused by underextrusion or print speed issues - or some effect where the material pulls itself together under tight curvature? What techniques might be able to compensate for it, short of fudging the model?
Some additional information: As noted by Trish in the comments, the consistency of the absolute error, which is 0.4 for cylinders and 0.2 for cubes, is likely important. I've also subsequently tested with 110% extrusion rate and the errors for the cylinders dropped to consistently 0.2 mm (still a significant increasing relative error), but the skin layers at the top of the 3 mm cylinder bulged, suggesting the increased extrusion is wrong - an excessive total volume of material.<issue_comment>username_1: You should not look at the relative dimensional differences, you should be looking at the absolute differences. Multiplying the undersized dimensions in percentage with the cylinder diameter gives you a value of 0.4 mm for each cylinder give or take a few hundreds. So, basically your printer works very consistent it is just suffering from a systematic offset.
Basically, the printing process needs to
adjust the X-Y dimensions to compensate for plastic flow effects. An option or setting in Ultimaker Cura to counteract this is called `Horizontal Expansion`. Slic3r and Simplify3d have similar settings. In Slic3r it is called `XY size compensation`.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The increase of the *relative error* is not an anomaly, it is a direct result of what is the actual error: There is a systematic, **absolute error**, which is almost the same for all the cylinders and all the cubes. +0.2 mm or +0.4 mm on progressively smaller items gets a progressively bigger relative error. But the source of the absolute error is what you need to compensate for.
Fighting bulging for 0.2 mm accuracy
------------------------------------
As you figured out that 110% extrusion did halve the absolute error of the cylindrical test, in conjunction with layer deformation, I suggest to try this:
* Extrusion/Flow Multiplier 100 %
* Linewidth 0.44 to 0.45 mm
This fights the die swell but also spaces the walls and roofing lines, allowing them to take the extra material. 0.2 mm accuracy is pretty good for a start, you get into the specs of many parts with that, but we want more!
For a slight increase, measure your filament in a couple of spots and do the average, then use that as filament diameter.
Increasing Accuracy further
---------------------------
If you want to [go further](https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-tolerance-test-and-improve-your-3d-printer-s-tolerances/), proper calibration of the [motion system](https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/) and the [extruder](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/) are the next steps.
### Short Calibration Rundown
The rundown is extruder first, then possibly the axis.
* Connect your printer to the PC with an interface such as Pronterface or Repetier Host.
* Place a mark 150 mm from the intake of the printer
* Extrude 100 mm via `G1 E100 F100`
* Measure from the intake to the mark.
* Get the current steps per mm via `M503` - it is the E-entry that follows `M92`
* Calculate $\frac {\text{current steps per mm }\times 100}{150 - \text {remaining length}}=\text {new steps per mm}$
* Set the new steps per mm via `M92 E###.#` and save with `M500`, verify with `M503`.
The process for the XYZ axis is pretty much the same, but you don't need to mark filament. Instead, print a known size cube, best with a side length that is a multiple of 10 mm.
* Calculate $\frac {\text{current steps per mm }\times \text{ designed length}}{\text {actual length}}=\text {new steps per mm}$
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This problem seems to have mostly gone away - at least any remaining error is within a margin explainable by my cheap/low-quality digital caliper. Since asking the question, I've made a lot of changes that could contribute, but the biggest factor was probably the loose X-axis timing belt and [misaligned X-axis](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10137/11157).
Slicer options may also have been involved. For example, Cura's Ender 3 profile attempts to set limits on acceleration speeds, but does so in a way that requires the GUI to compute derived accelerations; if you're using the command line CuraEngine (which I am), all the derived settings are left at the very high defaults.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I've had this problem recurringly after marking this solved before, so I'm writing a new answer to revisit it.
Based on the magnitude of the error being absolute rather than relative, and not being direction-dependent (i.e. not backlash), it can't be caused by the motion system. I further ruled out inward warping of the material by running tests with 100% infill. When, even at 100% infill, the diameter (thus volume of material) was too low, the only remaining explanation was underextrusion.
Measuring the theoretical rotation distance of my extruder hob (now a different extruder from the original Ender 3 one), accounting for approximate tooth depth along with a precise hob diameter measurement, I got a value 15% lower than my configured value (E-steps 15% higher). I was already aware there was a discrepency here, just not the magnitude, and had purposefully kept it lower because of concerns that the full value would lead to parts that don't fit, due to imperfections in the walls, and especially that it might make the undersized holes problem worse.
In reality, it's done the opposite. The best explanation I can come up with for fixing holes is that, for extrusion widths narrower than the nozzle (which a 15% under-extruded 0.4 mm line is, since it's only about 0.34 mm), the line does not stay centered well, but gets dragged with the direction of curvature. I think I still have some problems with holes being slightly undersized, but they're at least no worse, and seem slightly better.
As for positive cylinders, at 5 mm, printed diameter is nearly perfect, only under by about 40-50 µm, which is very acceptable and better than being over. Getting this result does depend on having a 100% solid part, though; as soon as infill comes into play, the cylinder is undersized again. Setting Cura's "Minimum Infill Area" high enough, or using enough walls to ensure the cylinder will be solid, can ensure 100% fill without printing the whole part at 100% infill.
So, I think I can conclusively say the main likely cause for this problem is underextrusion due to inaccurate E-steps.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/04 | 1,734 | 6,468 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been having trouble uploading the TH3DUF\_R2 firmware to my CR-10. I've already successfully flashed the bootloader using my Arduino, but when I try to upload the bootloader I get this error:
`avrdude: ser_open(): can't set com-state for "\\.\COM4"`
Things I've tried:
* Changing the usb drivers
* Changing the baud rate
* Using a different computers without any other usb devices
My printer is not functional right now with just a bootloader and no firmware, so I'm not really sure where to go from here.<issue_comment>username_1: You should not look at the relative dimensional differences, you should be looking at the absolute differences. Multiplying the undersized dimensions in percentage with the cylinder diameter gives you a value of 0.4 mm for each cylinder give or take a few hundreds. So, basically your printer works very consistent it is just suffering from a systematic offset.
Basically, the printing process needs to
adjust the X-Y dimensions to compensate for plastic flow effects. An option or setting in Ultimaker Cura to counteract this is called `Horizontal Expansion`. Slic3r and Simplify3d have similar settings. In Slic3r it is called `XY size compensation`.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The increase of the *relative error* is not an anomaly, it is a direct result of what is the actual error: There is a systematic, **absolute error**, which is almost the same for all the cylinders and all the cubes. +0.2 mm or +0.4 mm on progressively smaller items gets a progressively bigger relative error. But the source of the absolute error is what you need to compensate for.
Fighting bulging for 0.2 mm accuracy
------------------------------------
As you figured out that 110% extrusion did halve the absolute error of the cylindrical test, in conjunction with layer deformation, I suggest to try this:
* Extrusion/Flow Multiplier 100 %
* Linewidth 0.44 to 0.45 mm
This fights the die swell but also spaces the walls and roofing lines, allowing them to take the extra material. 0.2 mm accuracy is pretty good for a start, you get into the specs of many parts with that, but we want more!
For a slight increase, measure your filament in a couple of spots and do the average, then use that as filament diameter.
Increasing Accuracy further
---------------------------
If you want to [go further](https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-tolerance-test-and-improve-your-3d-printer-s-tolerances/), proper calibration of the [motion system](https://all3dp.com/2/how-to-calibrate-a-3d-printer-simply-explained/) and the [extruder](https://all3dp.com/2/extruder-calibration-6-easy-steps-2/) are the next steps.
### Short Calibration Rundown
The rundown is extruder first, then possibly the axis.
* Connect your printer to the PC with an interface such as Pronterface or Repetier Host.
* Place a mark 150 mm from the intake of the printer
* Extrude 100 mm via `G1 E100 F100`
* Measure from the intake to the mark.
* Get the current steps per mm via `M503` - it is the E-entry that follows `M92`
* Calculate $\frac {\text{current steps per mm }\times 100}{150 - \text {remaining length}}=\text {new steps per mm}$
* Set the new steps per mm via `M92 E###.#` and save with `M500`, verify with `M503`.
The process for the XYZ axis is pretty much the same, but you don't need to mark filament. Instead, print a known size cube, best with a side length that is a multiple of 10 mm.
* Calculate $\frac {\text{current steps per mm }\times \text{ designed length}}{\text {actual length}}=\text {new steps per mm}$
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This problem seems to have mostly gone away - at least any remaining error is within a margin explainable by my cheap/low-quality digital caliper. Since asking the question, I've made a lot of changes that could contribute, but the biggest factor was probably the loose X-axis timing belt and [misaligned X-axis](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10137/11157).
Slicer options may also have been involved. For example, Cura's Ender 3 profile attempts to set limits on acceleration speeds, but does so in a way that requires the GUI to compute derived accelerations; if you're using the command line CuraEngine (which I am), all the derived settings are left at the very high defaults.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I've had this problem recurringly after marking this solved before, so I'm writing a new answer to revisit it.
Based on the magnitude of the error being absolute rather than relative, and not being direction-dependent (i.e. not backlash), it can't be caused by the motion system. I further ruled out inward warping of the material by running tests with 100% infill. When, even at 100% infill, the diameter (thus volume of material) was too low, the only remaining explanation was underextrusion.
Measuring the theoretical rotation distance of my extruder hob (now a different extruder from the original Ender 3 one), accounting for approximate tooth depth along with a precise hob diameter measurement, I got a value 15% lower than my configured value (E-steps 15% higher). I was already aware there was a discrepency here, just not the magnitude, and had purposefully kept it lower because of concerns that the full value would lead to parts that don't fit, due to imperfections in the walls, and especially that it might make the undersized holes problem worse.
In reality, it's done the opposite. The best explanation I can come up with for fixing holes is that, for extrusion widths narrower than the nozzle (which a 15% under-extruded 0.4 mm line is, since it's only about 0.34 mm), the line does not stay centered well, but gets dragged with the direction of curvature. I think I still have some problems with holes being slightly undersized, but they're at least no worse, and seem slightly better.
As for positive cylinders, at 5 mm, printed diameter is nearly perfect, only under by about 40-50 µm, which is very acceptable and better than being over. Getting this result does depend on having a 100% solid part, though; as soon as infill comes into play, the cylinder is undersized again. Setting Cura's "Minimum Infill Area" high enough, or using enough walls to ensure the cylinder will be solid, can ensure 100% fill without printing the whole part at 100% infill.
So, I think I can conclusively say the main likely cause for this problem is underextrusion due to inaccurate E-steps.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/05 | 1,266 | 4,569 | <issue_start>username_0: Anyone have any idea how much power it takes to run a Creality Ender 3 3D printer every day for several hours at a time? Like what does it eat up per hour? A rough estimate of power use per hour would be nice, then I can figure out how much it costs me. Can anyone help me?<issue_comment>username_1: If it is really important to you to know how much you are spending per any given print, your best bet is not to guess, *but to know* how much power you're using. To that end, you could purchase a power meter which monitors your power usage. Given the right one, it can even calculate the cost of the power usage all in one little package. This link, [The 10 Best Electricity Usage Monitors](https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-electricity-usage-monitors), should provide you some ideas as to what you might find, but I'm sure there are plenty more out there (NOTE: I have no affiliation to the link provided ... it was just a random one I found through a Google search ... Go Go Google-Fu!).
As 0scar pointed out in his comment, there are just too many variables to try and guess what the power consumption *might be*. If you are looking for a real answer, I believe something along the lines as I've linked above is going to be your best solution to getting a real answer. Anything else is more or less just a guess.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm currently measuring the power usage of my Ender 3. It used about 0.5 kWh for 4 hours of printing. With 2 heat ups (about 280 W each). So approximately 120 W average.
Or 0.12 kWh per hour.
Assumed your printing 12 h a day you're using 1.5 kWh a day. That translates into a cost of 0.43 € a day in electricity (0.3 €/kWh).
When you're using your printer every day for an average of 12 h. You'll be using about 525 kWh a year or 157 € in electricity at 0.3 €/kWh.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_3: The Ender 3 has a 360 W power supply. This is the maximum power the printer can use. However, if engineered correctly, it should never actually reach this level of consumption to prevent premature failure of the power supply. It will use the most power during initial warm up, which is a relatively short amount of time. Then the average power consumption will drop considerably once at temperature. So, an average of 120 Wh per hour seems like a reasonable estimate.
It turns out that if you are paying 11.4 cents per kWh (which is a nominal price in the US) the price of running something 24 hours a day is \$1 per Watt per Year. So if you ran your printer all year long nonstop it would cost \$120 per year or \$10 per month.
Since you live in New York, you probably pay about 1.5 times as much for electricity or 17.1 cents per kWh. So you'd multiply the figures above by 1.5, so you would get \$15 per month. Also, you don't use your printer 24 hours a day. Let's say you want to print an average of 8 hours a day. That's 1/3 of the day, so you'd divide your figure by 3 and get \$5 per month. You'd hardly notice a difference in your electric bill.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: Other answers include good estimates, and show that for one printer the electricity costs are not very significant. If you are using many printers and want a concrete answer, then it would be wise to purchase a power monitor (for continuous monitoring) or multimeter with clamp.
With a clamp-on multimeter, you can clamp the meter on to the 3D printer's plug and read the Amps being drawn. Assuming a 120 VAC single phase supply (typical for North America), the power consumption is 120 VAC multiplied by the Amps drawn by the 3D printer (P=VI), which you can read from the multimeter.
The amps drawn by the 3D printer will vary throughout your print, but for a longer print, you should be able to get a good average amps read during a middle print layer. Total energy cost of printing per day would then be:
```
C = (V*I/1000)*t*E*n
C, Total printer energy costs per day ($/day)
V, AC Voltage (V)
I, Average current draw during print (Amps)
t, time printers are running per day (Hours/day)
E, Energy cost from utility ($/kWh)
n, number of printers
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Just order a [Watt Electricity Usage Monitor](https://amzn.to/2LIxkxb) or a similar model and plug it into the wall, or better, a 3-prong extension cord, then plug your 3D printer into it, and you'll get all the power consumption detail you'll need. Show your Mom, and she'll see what to charge you, if she's so inclined. To impress her, offer to pay without her asking.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/06 | 2,472 | 7,976 | <issue_start>username_0: Has anyone had any luck with printing multi-colored prints with the Palette 2 on an Ender 3? If so, what is your steps/mm for the Ender 3 and your flow rate in whatever slicer you are using? I currently have my flow rate at 100 % and my steps/mm at 104.4, and I believe this is what is causing my Palette 2 to not produce accurate results.
---
**About the Palette 2**
[Palette 2](https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2) is a separate device providing one multi color filament out of multiple single color filaments.
As the Ender 3 does not support multi-colour printing, that's why I'm using the Palette 2. It allows any printer to print in multi color as it adds multi color printing to single extruder printers.<issue_comment>username_1: On this thread, [Does anyone tried Palette 2.0 on Creality Ender 3 or Ender 3 Pro?](https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360021788573-Does-anyone-tried-Palette-2-0-on-Creality-Ender-3-or-Ender-3-Pro-), there are a couple of useful links:
* There is a video, albeit for the CR-101, but that should be of help: [YouTube - Setup Guide: Creality CR-10 with Palette 2](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DuGGmxKv94);
* In addition, this Facebook group, [Mosaic Palette, Palette+, Palette 2 (Pro) Users](https://www.facebook.com/groups/mosaic.users/), apparently has some users who have paired their Ender 3 with the Palette 2.
However, *with respect to your question about the flow rate and steps/mm*, there isn't much info out there about that, and no one seems to have experienced similar issues, but your issue *might* have something to do with profiles - which, as you haven't mentioned them in your question, it is hard to know if that might be the issue or not.
In the same thread, [this post](https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/360021788573/comments/360002849734), states:
>
> I use it with the Ender 3. There is a profile in Canvas and Chroma for it also.
>
>
>
This link here, [Chroma for Palette 2](https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012415733-Chroma-for-Palette-2), states that *after* using Cura, you then need to load the G-code file into Chroma v3.1, after having selected the appropriate **profile**. However, if you use Canvas, then there is no need for Cura nor Chroma, as Canvas can slice. This link goes through the whole process for Benchy.
---
At the risk of repetition, the process for preparing the print, post-slicing, is also given here, from [Multicolor 3D Printing How To: Using the Mosaic Palette+ with the Creality Ender 3](https://3dprintingcanada.com/blogs/news/multicolor-3d-printing-with-chroma-on-the-creality-ender-3), albeit slightly different from the link above:
>
> ### Setting Up Chroma:
>
>
> When you load up Chroma, you’ll be presented with a blank canvas ready
> to be filled with your 3D creations. In the top left corner, make
> sure that you have the **Ender 3** selected from the drop down menu.
> After this you can click **Load Print**. From there you’ll be presented
> with your gcode files that you have on your computer.
>
>
> In this example we will be selecting the `butterfly-1.gcode` file, and
> clicking **Open**. From here Chroma will be compiling and arranging the
> settings for the gcode file to be displayed. This might take a minute
> or more.
>
>
> ### Selecting Your Colors:
>
>
> Once the loading is completed, you will be presented with the 3D
> rendering of our butterfly! This butterfly will be in 4 randomly
> selected colors by default, but we will be changing this next! To
> change the colors, navigate to the top of the screen where you will
> see 4 colored circles, and drop down arrows along with each circle.
> These circles represent the colors of each tool head.
>
>
> To change the color, click on the **Tool Head Colored Circle**, and your
> options for color will appear, we’re going to select **Black** for our
> first color. After this, you will want to select the **Default PLA
> Settings** by clicking the **Drop Down Arrow** to the right of the first
> **Tool Head Colored Circle**.
>
>
> As we make these changes you will notice that the 3D rendering of our
> butterfly will change to our corresponding colors. Repeat this
> process for the remaining 3 Tool Heads, remember to use the **Default
> PLA Settings** for each Tool Head.
>
>
> ### Saving Your Project:
>
>
> After you have selected all your colors, you will click **Save for
> Printer** in the top right corner of Chroma. From there, name your
> file, and click **Save**. You will be then presented with a loading bar
> as Chroma prepares our 2 output files. One of the files will be an
> adjusted gcode file that has added the purge tower we just modified,
> and the other file will be a file that goes straight to the Mosaic
> Palette+.
>
>
> ### Printing Your Project:
>
>
> Once the files are ready, you will be presented with a screen that
> says “Ready to Print!”. On this screen you will be presented with the
> files you have created for your project, which for us are the
> `butterfly-1.msf` which goes to the Mosaic Palette+ and the
> `butterfly-1.msf.gcode` file which is your newly created gcode file.
>
> You will also be presented with “Materials Used” for the project,
> “Number of Splices” for the project, and “Number of Pings” for the
> project.
>
>
> After this, you will need to turn your Creality Ender 3 on if it isn’t
> already. After making sure that you have all your **components set up
> and assembled correctly**, then it is safe to begin the printing
> process.
>
>
> Depending on your specific project will determine how long the
> printing process takes. But once your printing process is complete
> you will be presented with your **beautiful multicolored 3D butterfly**
> (or whatever your project was)! After printing is finished, you
> should let the project cool before you attempt to remove it from the
> tray. Once it has cooled you can now gently pry the project off of the
> tray.
>
>
>
---
### Footnotes
1 The CR-10 is, on a broader level, an Ender-3 with 2 lead screws and a slightly different board.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_1: The guide is at [Getting Started With Palette 2 (Setup to Printing)](https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011124234-Getting-Started-With-Palette-2-Setup-to-Printing-), which includes guides to use the correct slicer software and swapping [the firmware](https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/360010073234-Firmware-Update).
The latter part may be a little bit of an ordeal on the Ender3 as there is no bootloader on it - however, it is not apparent from the instruction, whether this would be an issue or not - it seems to be a fairly simple process.
>
> 1. Open your Palette 2 package and remove your Palette 2 unit and USB cable. Connect your Palette 2 to your computer.
>
>
> To help the updater recognize the port for your Palette, try
> unplugging other USB devices.
> 2. Download our Firmware Installer for your operating system.
>
>
> Latest Palette Firmware V. 4.2.3 (Mar 14, 2019)
>
>
> * Windows (x32 or x64) [Download](https://s3.amazonaws.com/mosaic-resources/p2fwup/latest/Palette+2+Firmware+Updater+Setup+1.1.2.exe)
> * macOS [Download](https://s3.amazonaws.com/mosaic-resources/p2fwup/latest/Palette+2+Firmware+Updater-1.1.2.dmg)
> * Linux (x64, Tested on Ubuntu 16.04) [Download](https://s3.amazonaws.com/mosaic-resources/p2fwup/latest/Palette+2+Firmware+Updater-1.1.2.dmg)1
> 3. Follow the on-screen instructions and click "Install Latest"
> 4. Once the firmware is updated, you will receive the *Success* message, and you can unplug your unit from your computer.
>
>
>
>
> ---
>
>
> 1 For Linux users, please refer to this [support article](https://support.mosaicmfg.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004996014-Enabling-USB-Serial-Port-Permissions-on-Linux).
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/06 | 1,472 | 5,969 | <issue_start>username_0: This may be a long shot, but I was wondering if the signals seen across a stepper motor's windings could indicate whether the stepper was being told to move over some short time period. This is in particular for the stepper used on extruders.
I've read that PWM in used in stepper drivers and controls current patterns to move the motor. And that a current must also be maintained through the windings if the motor is to hold its position. So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct? When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?
This is for a filament sensor I'd like to make. The sensor would be located at the extruder motor. It would monitor movement/flow of the solid filament. A lack of filament flow could be because of filament runout, tangled or caught filament, or non-extruding travel moves. I'd like to be able to tell the first two causes from the last one (when it's not supposed to be extruding for some hundreds of milliseconds or so). It would also be nice to tell 'no directed movement' from 'very slow movement' which would happen with small nozzles, slow speed or other slow extrusion situations.
I watched the waveforms with an oscilloscope while printing, but travel moves were quick and relatively rare, so I couldn't definitely see if there was something I could use during those times. Could I just filter the pulse waveform (what corner frequency?) to get an approximation of the current waveform going through the coils -- on the idea that the waveform should resemble a DC level during non-extruding but still energized times. Perhaps another low-pass filtering of that DC level, or a high-pass of the waveform to indicate directed extrusion? Using DSP on a micro, of course.
Are there any experts here on the subject of low-level stepper motor control?<issue_comment>username_1: >
> So it would seem that there is always a pulsing waveform across the windings whenever the stepper is energized, correct?
>
>
>
Correct.
>
> When the motor is holding its position, is there anything distinctive about the waveform?
>
>
>
[Yes there is](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phds2oFOIYg). This video contains a short example of what the current waveforms would look like.
If I understand you correctly: You want to detect filament events based by doing current sensing on the phases of the stepper motor. The simple of it is that, if the motor is not turning then the [Back ElectroMotive Force](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counter-electromotive_force) will be zero. As the speed increases the BEMF goes up, which causes the current levels to go down. Is this how stall detection in some driver systems work.
You may be able to determine if what you want to do is even practical by studying the fundamentals of stepper motor driving; both [voltage mode and current mode](https://www.arrow.com/en/research-and-events/articles/voltage-versus-current-mode-control-in-stepper-motors).
Apart from that it may be just as practical to use a [rotary encoder](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_encoder) upstream of the extruder motor to detect the filament movement, or lack thereof.
In your case detecting if the filament is present but not moving calls for stall detection. If the PWM pulse occurs but the rate at which the voltage increased (the slope) did not change, then there was no BEMF event. The lack of such an event would indicate that the rotor did not move. If there is no filament to push, then when the rotor moves it will *ring* (overshoot it's target position and fluctuate back and forth until it settles into the electrical position that the controller intended), because the mechanical load has changed.
For a NEMA17 stepper, these would be very small change in a very brief event. I would start with installing [current sensors](https://www.sparkfun.com/products/14544) on both phases, and then doing some signal processing on top of that.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There is nothing you can do to monitor the extruder stepper motor to assure that filament is being fed when it should be fed. A common condition is where the filament binds but the extruder stepper continues to move as commanded. The drive pully strips the dents it presses in the filament, and grinds down the filament. The extruder still steps, and the filament does not.
You can reduce this for particular filaments by increasing the pressure on the filament by the drive pully, but the optimum pressure varies with the filament. For instance, I've found that PET needs a lesser pressure than PLA.
@User77232 suggests using a separate rotary encoder to detect the motion of the filament through a different sensor. This may be better, since you can detect a filament jam with extruder motion. If you are using a PTFE tube to deliver filament to the extruder, the encoder can be mounted at the other end of the tube. You may need to make allowance for some compression and stretch of the filament in the tube, which could delay detecting "lack of movement".
I had hoped that the Triaminic TMC2100 chips (spec [here](https://www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Products/ICs_Documents/TMC2100_datasheet_Rev1.09.pdf)) would provide detection of drive torque by watching the back EMF, but reading the spec didn't look helpful. There was an old patent (that should be long expired) that detected the current needed to move a stepper motor to achieve faster acceleration and quieter operation, but I didn't find on the Triaminic driver a useful torque limit signal. If one could detect the torque required, one could set a peek torque value that is lower than the initial filament strip torque.
Perhaps one could mount the extruder stepper motor with a compliant mount, perhaps something like a TPU or rubber material, and use a strain gauge to measure the stretch of the mount.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/06 | 570 | 2,253 | <issue_start>username_0: When filament is too short for the extruder to push will there be a stop in printing on the Ender 3, meaning that I should replace the filament when the end of the filament is near the extruder?<issue_comment>username_1: The extruder can't push anymore when the filament is past the extruder gear. If your filament has run out to that point, the print will *not* halt but print without a filament, meaning that the print will fail. You need to pause the print in time and then put fresh filament into the printer.
If the end of the filament is cut flat at the end and the new one is flat too, the new filament can push the old one out to the nozzle, reducing the waste to a minimum, if you can live without retraction for the amount of length that has to be used up. You could friction weld the two parts together to alleviate this.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: When the end of the filament is beyond the reach of the hobbed stepper gear, your print will stop extruding. Some printers (i.e. Prusa i3, Craftbot 3, etc) have runout sensors. These sensors can be a switch or some form of a circuit that is broken when the filament isn't there to close it (I'm no mechatronics engineer or anything, so my terminology may be a bit off). When these switches are tripped, the printer automatically pauses the print, allowing you to come and rescue it. Fancier printers like the Craftbot 3 will actually send you an email when your filament runs out *or even jams!* Of course, that machine is over $3600CAD, and well out of most peoples price range. The Ender 3, being around 300 dollars, is not equipped with a runout sensor. Switches and 3D printing files to make your own are either cheap or free.
And yes, some filament may need to be wasted if you do a swap. Direct drive extruders have the same problem but at a much smaller scale. If you just feed new filament into your machine, you will lose all retraction (which is annoying) until the second length of filament is in. At the point where the filament switches, (depending on your extruder and print speed) you may get a small patch of under extrusion. Nothing that will seriously compromise part strength, but it won't be super pretty.
Hope that helps!
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/04/06 | 839 | 3,221 | <issue_start>username_0: When houses are printed with concrete cement what replaces the steel rebar for reinforcement?
Here's a link referencing printing concrete: <https://www.aniwaa.com/house-3d-printer-construction/>
>
> House 3D printers use extrusion technology. Some construction 3D printers look like super-sized desktop FFF/FDM 3D printers (gantry style), whereas others consist of a rotating mechanical arm.
>
>
> In both cases, paste-type components such as concrete are used as filament. The material is pushed out of a special nozzle to form layers. To put it (very) simply, paste extrusion is similar using a piping bag to spread frosting on a cake.
>
>
> The printer creates the foundations and walls of the house or building, layer by layer. The ground is literally the printer’s build plate. Some concrete 3D printers, however, are used to 3D print brick molds. When molded, the bricks are then piled atop each other manually (or with a robotic arm).
>
>
>
Like most of the people here my experience is with a printer (RepRap) that can use PLA or ABS. With all the materials normally put into concrete, using an extrusion printer to print concrete is puzzling.<issue_comment>username_1: The extruder can't push anymore when the filament is past the extruder gear. If your filament has run out to that point, the print will *not* halt but print without a filament, meaning that the print will fail. You need to pause the print in time and then put fresh filament into the printer.
If the end of the filament is cut flat at the end and the new one is flat too, the new filament can push the old one out to the nozzle, reducing the waste to a minimum, if you can live without retraction for the amount of length that has to be used up. You could friction weld the two parts together to alleviate this.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: When the end of the filament is beyond the reach of the hobbed stepper gear, your print will stop extruding. Some printers (i.e. Prusa i3, Craftbot 3, etc) have runout sensors. These sensors can be a switch or some form of a circuit that is broken when the filament isn't there to close it (I'm no mechatronics engineer or anything, so my terminology may be a bit off). When these switches are tripped, the printer automatically pauses the print, allowing you to come and rescue it. Fancier printers like the Craftbot 3 will actually send you an email when your filament runs out *or even jams!* Of course, that machine is over $3600CAD, and well out of most peoples price range. The Ender 3, being around 300 dollars, is not equipped with a runout sensor. Switches and 3D printing files to make your own are either cheap or free.
And yes, some filament may need to be wasted if you do a swap. Direct drive extruders have the same problem but at a much smaller scale. If you just feed new filament into your machine, you will lose all retraction (which is annoying) until the second length of filament is in. At the point where the filament switches, (depending on your extruder and print speed) you may get a small patch of under extrusion. Nothing that will seriously compromise part strength, but it won't be super pretty.
Hope that helps!
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/04/11 | 1,085 | 3,487 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm interested in 3d printed reaction chambers, but can't find any good information on chemical resistances of PLA, just vague claims that it "might not be" "because it's biodegradable" or that it depends on additives (likely true, but it would be nice to know if there's hope of finding PLA without problematic additives if the PLA itself is okay). Is there any published research or even anecdotes (which could suggest it's worth spending effort to investigate further) on this topic?<issue_comment>username_1: As <NAME>. notes in his comment, there are many good charts of chemical compatibility with various agents. Very few (I found none) include information about PLA. By all means, use search engines to find some information.
But, no data source is as true to your specific needs as is testing your candidate materials with your agents.
As a first test put the agent in a tall thin jar or test tube. Use a few test filaments so that the ends are dipping into the agent. Check for signs of dissolution, swelling, softening, or any relevant change in the material's characteristics. Examine the candidate filaments right away, then after minutes, then hours, and if any material survives, perhaps in days.
Print test objects. Test them with your agent. Try until you find something that works.
The online material compatibility tables will help you eliminate materials before testing them. If it says a material is incompatible, it probably is incompatible. If rated as highly compatible, it should be tested because the formulation of a filament may not match the material tested for the compatibility tables. If you are running out of options, try the intermediate compatibility plastics.
Bottom line, use the online information to help direct your search, but you should do your own tests.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The paper [Chemical Compatibility of Fused Filament Fabrication-based 3-D Printed Components with Solutions Commonly Used in Semiconductor Wet Processing](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/326697946_Chemical_Compatibility_of_Fused_Filament_Fabrication-based_3-D_Printed_Components_with_Solutions_Commonly_Used_in_Semiconductor_Wet_Processing), found by user <NAME> in the comments on [another question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13897/how-to-get-a-quality-print-of-a-thin-single-walled-shell), has results for this, and finds (this is summarized; details in paper) that PLA has fairly good resistance to HCl at 37%. It did not fare as well against other acids or solvents except IPA.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: See this as well:
[Chemical Resistance of 3D Printing Filament](https://www.filamentive.com/chemical-resistance-of-3d-printing-filament/) by <NAME>
>
> Summarised chemical resistance per material below (***H**= High Resistance, **VH** = Very High Resistance*).
>
>
> **Water** – PLA (H) PETg (VH), CF-PETg (VH), ASA (VH), ABS (VH), ePLA (H), ONE PET (H)
>
>
> **Acids** – PETg (VH), ASA (VH), ABS (H)
>
>
> **Bases**– PETg (VH), CF-PETG (VH), ASA (VH)
>
>
> **Alcohols** –PETg (H), CF-PETG (VH), ASA (VH), ABS (H)
>
>
> **Hydrocarbons** – N/A
>
>
> **Ketones** –N/A
>
>
> **Ethers** –N/A
>
>
> **Fuels** –PETg (H), CF-PETG (H)
>
>
> **Salts** – PLA (H), ASA (VH), ABS (VH), ePLA (H)
>
>
> **UV** –PLA (H), ASA (VH), ABS (H), ePLA (H)
>
>
> **Oils** – PLA (H), PETg (VH), CF-PETg (VH), ASA (H), ePLA (H)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/04/12 | 872 | 2,917 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to buy a new nozzle for my Anycubic i3 Mega because it's not precise enough - it fails to print small details like 1 mm eyebrows.
Currently it has a 0.4 mm nozzle and I'd like to buy a better one but I don't know how to choose one which is compatible with this printer.
If you have any advice, please let me know.<issue_comment>username_1: According to [Anycubic](https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18) this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSL8p.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuLc1.png)
The brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for "E3D nozzle". They are also available from [E3D directly](https://e3d-online.com), the designer/creator of the E3D hotend family, and other specialized manufacturers like the [Olsson Ruby](http://olssonruby.com/). These nozzles have a short nozzle (snout) and are screwed into the heater block with M6 threads.1)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/32U1im.jpg)
The smaller the diameter, the smaller the filament traces and the higher the print detail resolution. Note that a smaller diameter causes thinner walls for the same amount of (vertical) walls and may require additional perimeters to get similar strength and rigidity. The maximum layer thickness also decreases, as prints with a layer height above 75 % of the nozzle diameter have very poor quality. As an example, a 0.25 mm nozzle should not print layers thicker than $0.75 \times 0.25\text{ mm} = 0.19\text{ mm}$.
As such printing with smaller nozzle diameters increases print time. Also note that a smaller diameter requires more force to push the filament through and *could* use some extra temperature to make the filament more fluid or reduction of the print speed.
Just buy some spare nozzles of different nozzle diameter and experiment what works best for you.
1) - *The other popular style of M6 threaded nozzles has a long body and long taper (often referred to as MK8 nozzle; they come in two different shapes). While these might work, they extend from the heater block considerably further and might need readjustment of the heater block ([as explained here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9913/8884)):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl9G1s.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3r8Vs.png)*
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: We select nozzles depending on what project we want to,do and it must match with the hot end as well.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/12 | 963 | 3,237 | <issue_start>username_0: We have a fairly new Ultimaker 3 Extended.
When printing ABS with the AA0.8 nozzle and the recommended settings (up-to-date CURA) we receive a very poor wall quality that exposes some kind of pores. I've attached an image of those pores.
I assume those pores are dragged by the nozzle when it moves inwards to print the infill.
I already tried to increase the wall thickness or increase the layer height to 0.3 mm. Are there other settings I might be able to tweak to eliminate those pores?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rk9Lp.jpg "Outer wall with pores")<issue_comment>username_1: According to [Anycubic](https://youtu.be/QnnPsoL5cHE?t=18) this printer uses the E3D V5 type hotend as can be seen from the linked video of the AnyCubic Mega:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSL8p.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cuLc1.png)
The brass nozzle you see is fully compatible with the E3D v6 nozzle and can be found on those typical auction and Chinese websites by looking for "E3D nozzle". They are also available from [E3D directly](https://e3d-online.com), the designer/creator of the E3D hotend family, and other specialized manufacturers like the [Olsson Ruby](http://olssonruby.com/). These nozzles have a short nozzle (snout) and are screwed into the heater block with M6 threads.1)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/32U1im.jpg)
The smaller the diameter, the smaller the filament traces and the higher the print detail resolution. Note that a smaller diameter causes thinner walls for the same amount of (vertical) walls and may require additional perimeters to get similar strength and rigidity. The maximum layer thickness also decreases, as prints with a layer height above 75 % of the nozzle diameter have very poor quality. As an example, a 0.25 mm nozzle should not print layers thicker than $0.75 \times 0.25\text{ mm} = 0.19\text{ mm}$.
As such printing with smaller nozzle diameters increases print time. Also note that a smaller diameter requires more force to push the filament through and *could* use some extra temperature to make the filament more fluid or reduction of the print speed.
Just buy some spare nozzles of different nozzle diameter and experiment what works best for you.
1) - *The other popular style of M6 threaded nozzles has a long body and long taper (often referred to as MK8 nozzle; they come in two different shapes). While these might work, they extend from the heater block considerably further and might need readjustment of the heater block ([as explained here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/9913/8884)):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pl9G1s.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3r8Vs.png)*
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: We select nozzles depending on what project we want to,do and it must match with the hot end as well.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/12 | 1,110 | 4,072 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got several examples like the image below where the perimeter either doesn't bond to, or doesn't reach the infill. I tried adjusting the `infill overlap` parameter in Slic3r from its default of 25 % to 30 %, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference. This is on a new Tevo Tornado that's all stock + a Petsfang Bullseye cooler.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G97AW.jpg "Visible separation on perimeter of the inner box")
---
Neither speed variations, nor temp variation seems to impact this issue. I'm beginning to suspect that it's related to some sort of play in the Y-axis, as if you look at the defect in the picture, it's the most pronounced running north/south in the picture, which would be layers along the X-axis (meaning their relative position would be impacted by Y-axis movement instability). I'm replacing the leveling springs with PETG standoffs tonight (I have a BLTouch) and will try again then.
I tried 25, 30, and 50 % infill overlap as per a comment request, and that (50 %) seems to have improved another issue where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells.
I tried the following print speeds with all of the following temperatures (nozzle/bed): 190/60 °C, 193/65 °C, 193/70 °C, with 3 perimeters.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DL4bK.png "Default parameters")
That's default behavior. I've also gone to
* Perimeters - 80 mm/s
* Small perimeters - 20 mm/s
* Infill - 90 mm/s
* Solid infil - 25 mm/s
* Top solid infil - 20 mm/s
* Bridges - 70 mm/s
* Gap fill - 25 mm/s
With no visible change in this outer perimeter behavior (the faster set of numbers is what I print with in general).<issue_comment>username_1: This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bonding perimeters (it looks as if it is in between the 2nd and the 3rd perimeter), hence infill overlap doesn't apply here. If that is the case look into [this question](/q/6067).
I've had this same issue, the problem is that if the perimeters do not touch, this is most probably caused by insufficient filament flow which can be a result of a too high of a print speed (or too low print temperature) of the inner perimeters. This is frequently seen when printing PETG. PETG has a limited print speed, the PETG I use (premium brand) has a maximum speed value of 50 mm/s, your values are for some values over that value. That would be fine for PLA, but high for PETG, the question is not clear on the material used for this print (the hotend temperatures hint to PLA, the bed temperatures are rather high though).
If it is not related to the material being printed, these gaps are also explained if the positioning of the nozzle is not correct, e.g. caused by loose belts. This is supported by the comment on the first layer:
>
> where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I had absolutely the same issue. And after some research I finally found that this is because of wrong pressure advance setting (In case of Marlin - linear advance) in the firmware.
Without pressure advance (linear advance) will be more plastic at the end of the travel rather than at the start. As result the fast full infill will have uneven distribution of the plastic with more plastic close to the perimeters that usually produce rounded corners. The pressure advance makes it better and redistribute plastic flow more even with the speed however if you make this setting too big for your 3d printer and filament then this will result in what you can see on the picture with less plastic at the end of the travel. Basically too big pressure advance parameter will result in less plastic near the perimeters and especially near corners where change in speed happening.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/12 | 778 | 3,002 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a way to change the use of an extruder port on a 3D printer motherboard to move stepper motors (on y axis) on a 3D printer?
This is for a school project, and we have replaced the extruder with a laser for cutting material.
We were tasked with converting a 3D printer into LOM 3D printer, the laser is set using the fan port, however we still need two stepper motors to move material from one side of the printer to the other after each layer of material is cut.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l40X1.png "Diagram")
The mother board we are using is [WitBot MKS Gen L V1.0 Controller Board Integrated mainboard Compatible Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 with A4988 Motor Driver for 3D](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07MXX2RV7).<issue_comment>username_1: This has nothing to do with the infill overlap, the image you've added looks as if the issue is related to non-bonding perimeters (it looks as if it is in between the 2nd and the 3rd perimeter), hence infill overlap doesn't apply here. If that is the case look into [this question](/q/6067).
I've had this same issue, the problem is that if the perimeters do not touch, this is most probably caused by insufficient filament flow which can be a result of a too high of a print speed (or too low print temperature) of the inner perimeters. This is frequently seen when printing PETG. PETG has a limited print speed, the PETG I use (premium brand) has a maximum speed value of 50 mm/s, your values are for some values over that value. That would be fine for PLA, but high for PETG, the question is not clear on the material used for this print (the hotend temperatures hint to PLA, the bed temperatures are rather high though).
If it is not related to the material being printed, these gaps are also explained if the positioning of the nozzle is not correct, e.g. caused by loose belts. This is supported by the comment on the first layer:
>
> where the infill on a first layer would often not reach the perimeter shells
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I had absolutely the same issue. And after some research I finally found that this is because of wrong pressure advance setting (In case of Marlin - linear advance) in the firmware.
Without pressure advance (linear advance) will be more plastic at the end of the travel rather than at the start. As result the fast full infill will have uneven distribution of the plastic with more plastic close to the perimeters that usually produce rounded corners. The pressure advance makes it better and redistribute plastic flow more even with the speed however if you make this setting too big for your 3d printer and filament then this will result in what you can see on the picture with less plastic at the end of the travel. Basically too big pressure advance parameter will result in less plastic near the perimeters and especially near corners where change in speed happening.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/14 | 428 | 1,662 | <issue_start>username_0: During my last print I noticed this jumpy behavior during heat up (blue is bed, red is hotend):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KlD2K.png "Graph of heatbed and hotend temperature over time")
So I am wondering about the jumps. What could cause this? I do not think that it is a defunct sensor (it is in both sensors) and I also don't think it is real. Could this pose some sort of hazard as temperature might not properly be controlled?
I use an Anet A8 printer with Marlin 1.1.9 and Octoprint<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like everything is ok with the real temperature, and it is just Octoprint missing some readings, like Oscar said.
But I think it is unlikely the USB cables fault, the whole print would fail in that case. I think the PI is to busy, maybe due to a Webcam streaming at high rate (try reducing the framerate). Another reason might be if you use a PI Zero W, especially if you transfer data over the Wifi at the same time, since Wifi and USB cause bottlenecks for each other on that board.
PS. I'd comment, but don't have privilege yet.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Since the terminal temperatures never exceed the setpoints, there's no apparent potential for disaster. Whether it's due to missing readings or to some sequencing of power (current) applied to the bed vs. the hotend, it really doesn't matter.
If you have a similar graph of the temperatures over an hour of printing and you see signifcant anomalies there, that might be of interest.
Upvotes: 2 |
2019/04/14 | 800 | 2,937 | <issue_start>username_0: I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rop.jpg)
But printing another part did not go so well:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDVQa.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYSJy.jpg)
After the failed print I ran another test:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp0Pk.jpg)
Еverything is done with the same settings.
And I think the temperature and settings are okay.
Is it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.
Where does the problem come from?<issue_comment>username_1: Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, I would say that you have a partially clogged nozzle.
Pre-heat the nozzle and extrude some filament. It should drop straight down from the nozzle. If the filament curls as it comes out of the nozzle, the nozzle is partially clogged. You may be able to clear the clog by doing what is called a "cold pull":
Pre-heat the nozzle so that it is possible to extrude filament. Then switch off the heater and allow the temperature to fall below the pre-heat temperature of the filament (140°C for PLA, say). Now disengage the extruder gears and gently withdraw the filament completely from the hot end. On removing the filament completely from the printer, you should find a "bullet" on the end of the filament in the shape of the melt chamber. Hopefully, the dirt that caused the clog will be embedded in the bullet.
In order to prevent dirt from entering the nozzle, it is a good idea to install a filament cleaner. This can be as simple as a piece of sponge containing a couple of drops of light machine oil, or you can make something a little more sophisticated. There are plenty of designs that you can download on Thingiverse.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It definitely looks like the temperature is too high
but it can also mean that
* the speed is too low and/or
* the cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or
* over extrusion could play a role here
this is the scenario with all these issues together
too high temperature melts too much filament which is put by too slow movements
;)
check the printing when your object changes from well printed to this ugly state
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: From third picture - moisture!
Is new filament cheap? I guess it was too long on stash and/or bad package.
Look for [Maker's Muse](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg)'s video on Youtube about this topic.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/15 | 803 | 2,889 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to set up an enclosed (custom enclosure) Prusa i3 style printer for ABS, but having a fair amount of difficulty preventing the part corners from curling.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/k9YT6.png "Example of curling at part corners")
Detailed specs:
* Geetech A10 (generic Prusa clone) w/ PEI heatbed
* Custom enclosure
* Slic3r software
* ABS filament (obviously!)
* 247 °C hotend temp
* 115 °C heated bed first layer, 110 °C for others
* Fan on for layer 3 and above
Verified heatbed temperature with calibrated IR imager.
Thus far I have been unable to prevent parts from separating from the heatbed during print, primarily at the corners where stress is concentrated. I've tried various heatbed temperatures from 90 °C to 115 °C, lower hotend temperatures (which just made the problem worse and caused complete print failure), cleaning the PEI surface with alcohol, etc. to no avail. I'm even seeing this to some extent with Benchy, it shows up as a lift to the stern and bow (slight bend parallel to the keel) -- the print is otherwise basically perfect.
I've attached an image of the more extreme curling -- yes, I should probably be using mouse ears on a part like this, but I see the same thing on parts that shouldn't require mouse ears.
What is the best way to fix this particular problem? Temperature adjustments, brims, rafts, something else?<issue_comment>username_1: Adding 20mm mouse ears was sufficient to resolve the problem using the original extrusion / heatbed settings. I did not expect mouse ears to be required on the Benchy model, but given the lack of better advice it seems this may be a poorly documented "feature" of ABS.
Results on the original worst-case test model:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aBOso.jpg)
Note that the brims will not help if the bed is insufficiently leveled -- the brim has to actually merge with / melt into the base part layer, so the extruder height has to be perfect at the brim to part interface.
Example of extruder too far away from bed:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CAoV3.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A tall skirt (like 1 cm tall or more, even as tall as the part) few millimetres from the part would shield the corners and the outer parts from colder air and keep the part temperature high, reducing curling.
It is in principle better than mouse ears, because these just pull the corners, which will still have a lot of internal stress when cooled, but if you keep the part warm as I suggest, the corner will stay flat(ter) by themselves, resulting in a stronger and better print with less internal stresses.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/16 | 1,318 | 4,618 | <issue_start>username_0: Most of my part is printing very well, but I have problems in the bottom layer and in layers that are the first layers, but not necessarily layer 0.
Looking at the [print quality troubleshooting](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/), I can't find a problem that fits my needs. Using the terms over there, I would describe it as "gaps in bottom layer".
Photo from part A (RPi case top piece):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0JkO3.jpg)
Photos from part B (RPi case bottom):
There is a really ugly screwhole (sorry for the blurry picture):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/B0Yyw.jpg)
But in the same part, there's an almost perfect much better screwhole:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsYWQ.jpg)
For the location on the print bed, it's here (both parts):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HoXaU.png)
I have seen the question [First bottom layer has gaps](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2943/first-bottom-layer-has-gaps), where the OP has already tried a lot.
My thoughts so far:
* I don't want to generally lower the Z height, since it prints fine over a large area with a really flat and smooth surface.
* I'm not sure I should change the temperature settings. I use the i3 MK3 printer and I use Prusa PLA filament with Slic3r Prusa PLA filament settings.
* I don't understand many of the extrusion width / extrusion multiplier options of that question.
* I thought I might have had a fingerprint on the print plate. I typically avoid that by wearing gloves and cleaning the print bed with alcohol every fifth print or so. However, I didn't clean before any of the two parts. (I cleaned now)
**Given the description and the pictures, can you name the problem and suggest the most likely solution?**
Printer and filament details:
* Prusa i3 MK3
* [Prusa PLA filament 1.75 mm, pearl blue](https://shop.prusa3d.com/de/filament/224-perlblaues-pla-filament-1kg.html)
* 0.20 mm SPEED setting
* 20% infill
* 5mm Brim
* 215°C first layer, 210°C other layers
* 60°C bed temperature
* Prusa PLA default filament settings
I use a Prusa spring steel print bed. No special adhesion, tape or anything. Closest I could find in the shop is [smooth PEI](https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/mk3-and-mk3s-printer-parts/216-spring-steel-sheet-smooth-pei.html), but mine looks more golden.<issue_comment>username_1: I know you said you don't want to change the Z height, but it does look like you're printing a bit too far from the plate. I would recommend adjusting your Z-offset if you can, or adjusting the limit switch (or whatever your Z-homing mechanism is)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Definitely the corner of your bed where print was worse is slightly unleveled (a little too low), because if you look the hole, it has artifacts too, probably because the nozzle was depositing the melted filament from a higher distance than on the "good" part.
You can see later in that hole, that the layers finally catch up with the rest, so:
* You need to correct the bed leveling on that corner (too low)
Also, the better part doesn't look right either. You can see the ring around the good hole doesn't close because the filament din't stick at the beginning of the circular movement. Plus, your first layer should be smoother than that, not wormy-like.
To experiment how to get a better first layer you need to tweak in very small amounts:
* The first layer height (I may need to be lower for you)
* The temperature (I don't think you need more temp for your first layer, probably the fans start blowing after the second layer anyways)
* The % of extruded material (you may increase it in very small amounts only for the first layer [and only after a lower layer height didn't worked])
* The speed of the first layer (it may need to be lower. imagine your nozzle is trying to print with chewing gum and what would happen if speeds are too high, PLA has a rubbery consistency when melted)
Also:
* Be sure the surface is clean
Dust and oils from manipulation on certain spots can cause the filament not to stick, even when you think is clean. I use alcohol when printing on a bare surface, change the masking tape, or use just a paper towel (when I'm using PEI sheet)
If that doesn't give you a a better first layer, but it is at least even, you will need to adjust your z-axis offset or level the entire bed up a little.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/16 | 598 | 2,248 | <issue_start>username_0: I’m using a RepRap printer, PLA (Hatchbox 1.75 mm), SketchUp, and Slic3r. The heated bed is covered with a blue polyester sticker. When I print small holes (1 to 1.5 mm radius), slicer software considers the holes outside edges for the first layer and prints them before the internal first layer. The problem is, unlike the actual outer edges, the holes have no brim and the small first layer circles stick to the extruder rather than the bed. The rest of the first layer print sticks and the print eventually recovers with slight defects depending on where the lifted circles end up. If I could print the first layer circles after the surrounding first layer was printed, this wouldn’t be an issue. I’ve tried different bed and extrusion temperatures. All four holes in different locations do the same. First layer is 0.3 mm thick. Second layer is 0.2 mm thick.<issue_comment>username_1: are you using hairspray or tape to help with bed adhesion? If not that might help.
Also try printing the first layer slower or try adjusting the bed level offset so you are squishing the first layer down a bit more.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You didn't say what type of bed you have, but I'm guessing glass. Do you have a BuildTak or comparable generic surface you could clip on and use? I've never had adhesion problems like this with my Ender 3, which came with a BuildTak clone; PLA just sticks, with no brim, no glue, no hairspray, etc.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Print at 5% of the print speed, and ramp up cooling to 100%. This should give the plastic time to shrink and adhere to the bed. If not then use a raft.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I would use a very slow print speed for the first layer, something like 20mm/s or less.
This will make your first layer so slow you will be tempted to bite the steel rods.
If you were using Cura (I don’t know if Slic3r has a similar feature) you can change this parameter only for those areas where you have these small holes: with the Custom Supports plugin you can specify a different print speed for a specific area
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNfJq.png)
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/17 | 537 | 1,789 | <issue_start>username_0: The [Prusa3d knowledge base](https://help.prusa3d.com/article/6Gtws6Yqjg-pei-print-surface-preparation) mentions that acetone will "rejuvenate" PEI in addition to cleaning oil and grease from the surface.
>
> About once a week, or when **prints stop sticking**, use **ACETONE** to clean the bed. It removes grease better than IPA or Windex. It also **rejuvenates** the print surface. However, if you use acetone every day, PEI will become brittle and start cracking.
>
>
>
From a chemical or physical perspective, how does acetone affect the PEI surface?<issue_comment>username_1: Acetone is smelly nasty stuff. Here's a sample recommendation for PEI maintenance from one of a few (million?) 3d printing help sites.
>
> Use isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, soap, Heptane, Hexane, or
> Naphtha. Avoid ketones (such as MEK) or strong bases (such as sodium
> hydroxide).
>
>
>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Rejuvenate is probably a bit of an exaggerated term. The number one adhesion suppressor is grease. The stuff that comes off of the fingers used to handle the sheet. Even if you are careful and only handle the sides, the grease will be carried to the center of the plate next time its cleaned with less aggressive solvents.
Isopropyl alchohol does break down grease but not to the extent that acetone does. Acetone also attacks plastic particles that accumulate on the print surface over time.
PEI is resistant to a wide array of chemicals[1] including acetone but it can become brittle if exposed to it too much especially when hot so acetone is not recommended for daily cleaning.
[1] [Ultem Product Broshure](https://www.emcoplastics.com/assets/pdf/ultem/ULTEM%20Product%20Brochure%20GE.pdf) table 4-3
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/17 | 1,956 | 6,850 | <issue_start>username_0: I work in a teaching hospital and we have a research project we're interested in pursuing. We'd like to 3D Print tubes we'd implant into rats to help with nerve regeneration. We're interested in the shape of the tubes right now, more so than what material it is or whether it's biocompatible etc..
So this question isn't necessarily about what type of plastic or whatever we should print in. My question is more so:
>
> We'd like to print a tube that's 1 mm in diameter, about 1 cm
> long and has as many micro "tubes" crammed through it as possible,
> something like this:
>
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ry5X1.png "Tube containing micro tubes")
>
>
>
I currently have a Stratasys j750 in my lab, a UPrint Se and a Prusa i3 Mk3s. They all work well but for the detail I'm looking for, come up a bit short. They have advertised accuracies of 14 microns (well, the j750) but thats just in the z direction, x and y are more like 200. If I went to get PRECISE, what technology should I look into?<issue_comment>username_1: This is an interesting question. A good thing to note when we start talking about SLA and other jewelry grade 3d printing, that you will have to factor in the materials toxicity when we start talking about medical applications. You can also look into DLP 3d printers but they will not have as good quality.
What can help you right now is these SLA printers I see that [form 3](https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3/tech-specs/) has 25 microns, with a laser dot of 85. Well within your tolerances. Just make sure to get dental grade or medical grade resin.
Note that if there are bends, then you will have issues with SLA printing, depending how steep the angles are.
There are other technologies, such as metal 3d printing or [SLS printing](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selective_laser_sintering), that will likely be [out of your price range](https://www.allthat3d.com/metal-3d-printer/) such as the HP Metal Jet that can do 21 -xy by 50 -z microns. Or binder based 3d printing which will have the best internal geometry, as powder will act as support, and is easily removed.
There are many specifically in the bio printing area that might be what you are looking for as well, this is more an alternative. You can look into what the researchers at Penn has been doing, where they have been using [Sugar to create vascular networks](https://penntoday.upenn.edu/news/penn-researchers-improve-living-tissues-3d-printed-vascular-networks-made-sugar). As far as I know they do not sell it as a product at this time. Here is more information about [scaling vascular networks](https://medium.com/wolfram-events/3d-printed-blood-vessels-the-tech-just-became-scalable-696252e2572c)
See [here](https://all3dp.com/1/types-of-3d-printers-3d-printing-technology/) for more information about other printing technologies
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The typical low-end consumer printers that are so common now in the $100-800 range (yes, I've seen small ones sell that cheap) cannot achieve this, even with special nozzles.
But your machine is a bit nicer than that. Looking [online at the manufacturer's page for the machine](https://www.stratasys.com/3d-printers/j700-dental), we find these specifications:
```
LAYER THICKNESS
55 microns
BUILD RESOLUTION
100 +/- micron accuracy
```
That's not gonna cut it. 100 microns is .1mm. +/- 100 microns means it can error that much in either direction from where things should be. To illustrate why this is too much, I'll use the image of the tube in the question, with the 1mm diameter as a scale, and layer the 100micron error potential as a grid over the image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UqQOq.png)
This grid doesn't show the size of the filament: just margin for error. It's getting close to what we need, but it's not there yet. To reliably create your tubes, you want the error to no more than 1/4 the diameter of a tube itself. Based on the image, the tube size is about 180 microns, so you want to look for something with an error in the range of +/-45 microns. \_Maybe you could do this with a tube — more of a rounded rectangle — lying on it's side.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: FDM/FF printers can#t achieve those resolutions due to several constraints. The biggest problems are wall thickness and resolution:
The print needs to be made from walls that are at least one nozzle wide. Commonly available nozzles go down to the 0.15 to 0.2 mm area, so the thinnest wall has to be at least this wide or be ignored.
The resolution is probably an even bigger problem: common consumer grade and industrial machines can get dialed in to have errors down to the 0.1 mm. Which would be, with the aforementioned smallest nozzles, up to half a wall width shift! Shifting the print by that would destroy the functionality of the print surely.
But, is there a solution?!
--------------------------
The only solution that comes to my mind is using a resin based printer like SLA or DLP. [SLA printers](https://all3dp.com/3d-printer-resolution/) can get down to 0.025 mm layer height, usually demand a minimum of 0.14 mm wall thickness, but newer machines can cut that almost by two.
The error on the SLA Form 2 machines is, compared to its minimum wall width, pretty much nonexistent for features of about 10% larger than its spot size (0.144 mm), so for [0.15 mm and up](https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printer-resolution-meaning/) it prints pretty much spot on. Extrapolating this means that you'll need a SLS machine such as the [Form 3](https://formlabs.com/3d-printers/form-3/tech-specs/), for minimum reliable wall lines of roundabout 0.09 mm. However, one wall thickness is usually bad, but it might achieve walls of 2 perimeters, coming down to about 0.16 mm.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Update on this:
Per this article: [3D printing strategies for peripheral nerve regeneration](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29570458)
There are a few 3d printing technologies beyond your typical FDM/SLA/Polyjet that can get this small.
* Melt Microextrusion
* two photon polymerization
* Something called MEW
* continuous liquid interface production
I found various articles where someone "printed" that small, but it was often kind of a misnomer where technically something was made additively, but it wasn't a "printer" that you could go buy. I think two photon polymerization may be the "best" actual printing method for what I want, though the price tag associated with that style of printers may be out of my range. But it can definitely get that small, this technology can apparently get down into the nanometer range.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/18 | 635 | 2,577 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently upgraded to [a Polypropylene](https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-polypropylene-build-plate-for-ender-3-ender-5-cr20_p0124.html) print bed, but I haven't actually been able to complete a print.
Adhesion seems incredibly inconsistent, even on the same spot. Sometimes it goes down great, and sometimes it just curls up and clumps on the nozzle. I even cranked the temp up to 220 °C for the PLA and 70 °C for the bed in an effort to get it to stick for an initial layer, and it still isn't sticking.
Any tips? I've been cleaning with rubbing alcohol, but I don't know if there's any trick. Clean when hot? Cold? Let sit after cleaning before using? Is it just a matter of incredibly precise bed leveling?<issue_comment>username_1: If you are using PLA, 200 for the extruder sticks the best for me. The other issue with adhesion is the greater the difference between the extruder temperature and the bed the poorer adhesion. There are other things can help with this. Using a higher bed temperature for the first layer can help. A slower extrusion speed allows the extrusion to cool more before getting as long of a length to for the contraction force; thus improving adhesion.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: When you updated the print bed, you may have affected either the manual or auto calibration of the bed height and bed leveling.
First layer adhesion is depends critically on an accurate first layer thickness, which depends on the bed height calibration. Adding or, perhaps more critically, removing any bed surface thickness could cause a problem.
With many forms of auto bed calibration, a sensor detects a steel or metallic reference under the surface. The thickness from that reference to the surface of the bed is not automatically detected or compensated. Changing the bed surface, even renewing the surface with another sheet of the same material, may alter the bed thickness enough to affect the adhesion fo the first layer.
If the bed is properly adjusted, the problem may be the surface of the polypropylene. I see that some instructions for cleaning polypropylene build surfaces suggest isopropyl alcohol and/or a mild soap solution. I find that with a PEI build plate, it is sometimes necessary to clean the surface with acetone.
Acetone is superior at removing oils and films from the surface and will do better than multiple isopropanol cleanings. I checked a table of chemical compatibility, and polypropylene is highly compatible with acetone, so a thorough cleaning will not degrade it.
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/18 | 582 | 1,939 | <issue_start>username_0: I got a Tronxy X5S-400, I assembled it and when I power it on, I see on the screen one of the below images and gets stuck there.
Is the firmware broken? If yes, where can I get a `configuration.h` file?
I verified that the two buses between the screen and the mainboard are not loose or incorrectly connected.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ilwaq.jpg "Marlin splash screen")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIkog.jpg "Screen corruption")
The board is a MKS Melzi v2.0 clone
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hhtaw.jpg "Controller")<issue_comment>username_1: If the controller is one of Tronxy's new Chitu boards, you will not have the option of recompiling the firmware, since they are locked down. Apart from checking that the PSU is delivering the correct voltage, your only option may be to request a new main board from the vendor.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It looked like the firmware wasn't flashed correctly in the factory. What I did was to flash a bootloader using an Arduino compatible board and to flash the Marlin software e.g. according to [videos from this guy](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gwWVFtdg-4).
Next, the menu wasn't displayed correctly so I added, in the `Configuration.h` the following lines:
```
#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(63)
#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(100)
#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(125)
```
Now the display is working fine, and the Marlin firmware can be directly flashed from the computer because the bootloader remains there.
I also had a problem with the heating bed which was heating very slow and I had to raise consistently the `TEMP_BED_RESIDENCY_TIME` and decrease `TEMP_BED_HYSTERESIS` to 1.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/20 | 416 | 1,505 | <issue_start>username_0: I acquired an Anycubic Chiron yesterday. I went through the leveling procedure and I think the level test print came out okay so I printed a 20 mm calibration cube and a benchy. Both of these came out with a sort of spongy consistency.
I have no idea what could be causing this so some advice would be appreciated.
I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.0.0 and printing in PLA.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/s3Gs0.jpg "Spongy Print")<issue_comment>username_1: I would lay odds on it being your filament is moisture saturated. You don't state what type of filament you're using, but to my understanding this is what happens when it is saturated. The water evaporates as it goes through the nozzle, which causes the filament to puff up, which leaves voids in your print.
The print itself looks like it came out rather well. I mean, the edges of the print are solid and everything is clearly defined. This would state to me the slicer and the printer itself are doing their jobs well. You didn't measure it (or leave any hint you did), so I'll assume the overall dimensions are good.
Try a different filament and see if you get better results.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It turned out I had the wrong filament size set in Ultimaker Cura. Fixing this resolved the issue.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3KFlw.jpg)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2019/04/21 | 430 | 1,620 | <issue_start>username_0: Following the question I asked here: [Replace X axis motor with different model](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8735/replace-x-axis-motor-with-different-model/8738?noredirect=1#comment14916_8738)
I have a problem with my new motor. My X-axis is now moved by a 17HS3401S motor, instead of a 42SHD0217-24B motor.
On small segments, like when I need to print an arc with a lot of small straight lines, my printhead "vibrates" instead of having a smooth movement. It seems it stops for a very short amount of time before trying to move again. On longer travels there is no problem.
Do you know if it's because of the motor, or because of something else? (Vref not set properly maybe?)<issue_comment>username_1: The overall torque, and thus the incremental torque is less with your new stepper, this may result in less smooth operation because of moving the weight of the carriage (e.g. when you have a direct extruder mounted on the X carriage).
You could be facing skipping steps, resulting in less accurate prints. Maybe the Vref has not been adjusted correctly, or the stepper is just not working for your application.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: One other possibility is that the printer is "gap-filling". When there is a space between walls that isn't enough for infill or a roof layer, the slicer can be told to fill the gap, and depending on gap size it often does this with a zig-zaggy motion of the extruder. This is normal; if you wish, you can turn it off, however be aware this can cause those gaps to be visible in top surfaces of your prints.
Upvotes: 0 |
2019/04/21 | 624 | 2,268 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625). This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65 °C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2 mm for a 85 mm diameter print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7rCP.jpg)
I didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200 °C.
What could be wrong?
The printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.<issue_comment>username_1: Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:
1. Use a wider brim.
2. If the brim isn't sticking, use a higher bed temperature for the first layer.
3. If the brim comes up only on one side or warping is only on one side, make sure the bed is level.
4. Slowing down the print will keep you from having as long of a strand cooling down. This will lower the contraction force and reduce warping.
5. A hotter bed temperature will reduce the temperature difference between the extrusion and the bed, thus reducing the contraction force.
200 °C is a good temperature for getting PLA to stick. I've tried lower extrusion temperatures to reduce the temperature difference between the extruder and the bed, but this decreases adhesion to the bed and is counterproductive.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Glass is tricky. Try using a glue stick. It makes the problem getting it off more than keeping it on. Magigoo and Aquanet also come highly recommended for glass. Another thing would be printing with a raft. Raft's stick pretty well, and most prints stick to a raft, and those prints won't lift. A third trick would be using an extrusion multiplier *on your first layer only.* As far as slicer tricks go, check to see when (if at all) your cooling fans turn on. usually, fans will turn on about 12-15 layer into your print. Any earlier, and they may peel. Bed level, although crucial to have to some degree of accuracy, is somewhat nullified when a raft is used.
Hope that helps!
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/23 | 1,521 | 4,256 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to figure out how to wire up Auto Bed Leveling (ABL) on my Ender 3 using the optocoupler and inductive proximity sensor below.
I cannot figure out how to wire it all together, all the tutorials I have found are for 2 and 3 wire per side of the optocoupler.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VL6Ix.jpg "NOYITO Optocoupler Isolation MOS FET 10A DC 2.7-27V High-Power Field Effect Tube Driver Module 0-20Khz PWM Switch Control Board Development Board Module")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5FWj.jpg "uxcell 4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch Detector NPN NO DC 6-36V 300mA 3-Wire LJ12A3-4-Z/BX")<issue_comment>username_1: Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.
From e.g. [here](https://www.desertcart.ae/products/92694483-noyito-optocoupler-isolation-mos-fet-10-a-dc-2-7-27-v-high-power-field-effect-tube-driver-module-0-20-khz-pwm-switch-control-board-development-board-module): Module interface description:
1. DC+: Positive DC power supply.
2. DC- : Negative DC power supply.
3. PWM: Signal input (connect MCU port, PLC interface, DC power supply, etc.)
4. GND: The negative terminal of the signal
5. OUT+: Positive output terminal (connected to the device positive)
6. OUT-: Negative output terminal (connected to device negative)
So, 1 and 2 connect to your power supply that matches the voltage of the logic of your microprocessor (5 V) as this must be linked to 5 and 6 which are connected to the endstop signal and ground respectively.
As for the sensor, blue is GND, black is signal (PWM) and brown is power as seen in e.g. [this answer](/a/6359).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a bit of an *addendum* to username_1's answer, as I didn't want to edit it in to his post.
For completion, the sensor's internal schematic is on the side of the sensor itself1:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbsjD.png)
where:
* PNP - 1 BN - Brown - VSUPPLY
* N/O - 4 BK - Black - Sensor output
* 4 mm - 3 BU - Blue - GND
However, the complete diagram, taken from [Instructables - Enable Auto Leveling for Your 3D Printer With an Inductive Sensor (Marlin Firmware)](https://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/), can be seen here:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2O66A.jpg "Complete schematic")
---
### Footnotes
1 Taken from [this image](https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/273297496840_/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO.jpg), which was on this product page, [4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch PNP NO DC 6-36V 200mA Cylinder](https://picclick.com/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO-273297496840.html):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSWyh.jpg)
There is a bit more to the schematic, which can be glimpsed here (on the left hand side):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EVa0.jpg)
A fuller, but blurry, view of the left hand side can be seen [here](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41kMRIsIl4L.jpg), from this [product page](https://weshop.co.id/amazon/item/uxcell-4mm-inductive-proximity-approach-sensor-switch-pnp-nc-dc-6-36v-200ma-3-wire-lj12a3-4-zay-cylinder-class-B07CWRHG4S.html):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/27t1t.png "Left hand side of sticker on sensor")
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/23 | 1,390 | 4,180 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm having problems when printing small parts over big areas.
I'm currently printing quite big casing (~180 mm x 100 mm), which has hexagonal holes on the corners. On the first layer the printer prints, in order:
* Supports inside the holes,
* Borders around the holes
* Border of the whole casing and finally
* Infill (since it is first layer, infill is solid)
When printing borders around holes, printer's head travels between all holes (so that's around 90 % of the whole bed width), what results in filament oozing and the hole borders being underextruded (sometimes to the point, that filament doesn't stick to the bed).
My setup is CReality3D Ender 3 with Ultimaker Cura 3. Most important settings:
* Print speed 40 mm/s
* Nozzle temperature 215 °C
* Bed temperature 60 °C
* Retraction on travel turned on
* Retraction additional prime amount set to 0.05 mm3.
* Outer walls printed after inner ones
What would help (I guess) is slowing down the print after long travels or priming more filament, but proportionally to the travel distance. There are no such settings in Ultimaker Cura though.
How can I deal with such problem?<issue_comment>username_1: Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.
From e.g. [here](https://www.desertcart.ae/products/92694483-noyito-optocoupler-isolation-mos-fet-10-a-dc-2-7-27-v-high-power-field-effect-tube-driver-module-0-20-khz-pwm-switch-control-board-development-board-module): Module interface description:
1. DC+: Positive DC power supply.
2. DC- : Negative DC power supply.
3. PWM: Signal input (connect MCU port, PLC interface, DC power supply, etc.)
4. GND: The negative terminal of the signal
5. OUT+: Positive output terminal (connected to the device positive)
6. OUT-: Negative output terminal (connected to device negative)
So, 1 and 2 connect to your power supply that matches the voltage of the logic of your microprocessor (5 V) as this must be linked to 5 and 6 which are connected to the endstop signal and ground respectively.
As for the sensor, blue is GND, black is signal (PWM) and brown is power as seen in e.g. [this answer](/a/6359).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a bit of an *addendum* to username_1's answer, as I didn't want to edit it in to his post.
For completion, the sensor's internal schematic is on the side of the sensor itself1:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbsjD.png)
where:
* PNP - 1 BN - Brown - VSUPPLY
* N/O - 4 BK - Black - Sensor output
* 4 mm - 3 BU - Blue - GND
However, the complete diagram, taken from [Instructables - Enable Auto Leveling for Your 3D Printer With an Inductive Sensor (Marlin Firmware)](https://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/), can be seen here:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2O66A.jpg "Complete schematic")
---
### Footnotes
1 Taken from [this image](https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/273297496840_/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO.jpg), which was on this product page, [4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch PNP NO DC 6-36V 200mA Cylinder](https://picclick.com/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO-273297496840.html):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSWyh.jpg)
There is a bit more to the schematic, which can be glimpsed here (on the left hand side):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EVa0.jpg)
A fuller, but blurry, view of the left hand side can be seen [here](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41kMRIsIl4L.jpg), from this [product page](https://weshop.co.id/amazon/item/uxcell-4mm-inductive-proximity-approach-sensor-switch-pnp-nc-dc-6-36v-200ma-3-wire-lj12a3-4-zay-cylinder-class-B07CWRHG4S.html):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/27t1t.png "Left hand side of sticker on sensor")
Upvotes: 1 |
2019/04/23 | 1,163 | 3,416 | <issue_start>username_0: I made a print that involves joining two halves together to create the full model. I decided to use hot glue to bond the halves and on one model, the parts came together slightly skewed. Is there any way to ‘unbond’ the hot glue without ruining the model so I can realign the pieces? Touching the glue gun tip to the hot glue wouldn’t work, as the glue is *inside* the model.<issue_comment>username_1: Connecting is pretty straightforward like the other modules, difference is an extra input lead.
From e.g. [here](https://www.desertcart.ae/products/92694483-noyito-optocoupler-isolation-mos-fet-10-a-dc-2-7-27-v-high-power-field-effect-tube-driver-module-0-20-khz-pwm-switch-control-board-development-board-module): Module interface description:
1. DC+: Positive DC power supply.
2. DC- : Negative DC power supply.
3. PWM: Signal input (connect MCU port, PLC interface, DC power supply, etc.)
4. GND: The negative terminal of the signal
5. OUT+: Positive output terminal (connected to the device positive)
6. OUT-: Negative output terminal (connected to device negative)
So, 1 and 2 connect to your power supply that matches the voltage of the logic of your microprocessor (5 V) as this must be linked to 5 and 6 which are connected to the endstop signal and ground respectively.
As for the sensor, blue is GND, black is signal (PWM) and brown is power as seen in e.g. [this answer](/a/6359).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a bit of an *addendum* to username_1's answer, as I didn't want to edit it in to his post.
For completion, the sensor's internal schematic is on the side of the sensor itself1:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbsjD.png)
where:
* PNP - 1 BN - Brown - VSUPPLY
* N/O - 4 BK - Black - Sensor output
* 4 mm - 3 BU - Blue - GND
However, the complete diagram, taken from [Instructables - Enable Auto Leveling for Your 3D Printer With an Inductive Sensor (Marlin Firmware)](https://www.instructables.com/id/Enable-Auto-Leveling-for-your-3D-Printer-Marlin-Fi/), can be seen here:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2O66A.jpg "Complete schematic")
---
### Footnotes
1 Taken from [this image](https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600/pict/273297496840_/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO.jpg), which was on this product page, [4mm Inductive Proximity Approach Sensor Switch PNP NO DC 6-36V 200mA Cylinder](https://picclick.com/4mm-Inductive-Proximity-Approach-Sensor-Switch-PNP-NO-273297496840.html):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSWyh.jpg)
There is a bit more to the schematic, which can be glimpsed here (on the left hand side):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EVa0.jpg)
A fuller, but blurry, view of the left hand side can be seen [here](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41kMRIsIl4L.jpg), from this [product page](https://weshop.co.id/amazon/item/uxcell-4mm-inductive-proximity-approach-sensor-switch-pnp-nc-dc-6-36v-200ma-3-wire-lj12a3-4-zay-cylinder-class-B07CWRHG4S.html):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/27t1t.png "Left hand side of sticker on sensor")
Upvotes: 1 |
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