An eastward drive from Portland through the Columbia River Gorge brings a few colorful surprises. There is, of course, the landscape’s gradient shift from evergreen to golden. An hour spent cruising along the river on Interstate 84 sees the moss-draped cliffs and basalt spires of the national scenic area give way to the sagebrush-speckled hills of the Columbia Plateau. And then there is The Dalles, an unexpected home to the dazzling National Neon Sign Museum, which only recently opened its doors to the public.

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