lens as closely as possible around its no-parallax point (NPP), and then, if required, to rotate the camera in pitch around the NPP to take zenith (straight up) and nadir (straight down) shots to finish coverage.
There are variants to this type of coverage, of course, mostly altering the angle of tilt to eliminate the need to shoot a separate zenith or nadir or both.  But the goal is always the same: to completely cover the sphere with enough overlap for a good stitch.
Like any panorama, it's best to try and keep exposure, white balance, and focus locked and consistent between member images, to consider whether HDR exposure coverage might be required with bracketing, and to shoot enough coverage/overlap so that you can erase ghosts and clones.
Holding the Camera
If the panorama is being taken outside with no nearby objects of interest, these types of panos actually can be taken handheld. Hans Nyberg was probably one of the first to use a Sigma 8mm circular fisheye lens to do this.  However, this does require some talent at keeping a camera rotating around the same spot in space, and judging your angle of rotation. Some folks use levels, plumb-lines, and guides on the ground as aids. But generally, this way of shooting panos does require skill, and won't work as well for indoors panos, where the required precision is higher.
So the vast majority of folks who do this use a tripod and a panohead.
A panohead typically has a lower and upper rail (like an L-bracket for portrait shooting), but the upper rail will also have an arm that swings out from the top to hold the camera and lens, so that the lens can be centered over the center of the tripod/head, and adjusted back and forth to rotate precisely at the no-parallax point of the lens/body combination, as well as rotated in pitch.

It may also have detents (click stops) at regular intervals for easy rotation to exact intervals, and the upper arm joint is marked off with precise angles, so you can tilt by specific amounts.
For me, setting up to shoot a 360x180 pano requires only a few minutes, since I have all of my gear pre-calibrated for my equipment, and I use quick releases. I just have to set up the tripod, screw on the
lens as closely as possible around its no - parallax point (NPP), and then, if command, to revolve the camera in pitch around the NPP to take zenith (directly up) and nadir (straight down) shots to finish coverage. 
 There be version to this type of coverage, of path, mostly altering the slant of tilt to eliminate the need to shoot a freestanding zenith or nadir or both.   But the goal is always the same: to completely cover the sector with enough overlap for a good stitch. 
 Like any view, it's best to try and restrain photograph, white libra, and focus locked and consistent between extremity images, to consider whether HDR exposure coverage might be required with bracketing, and to shoot enough coverage / overlap so that you can erase ghosts and clones. 
 Holding the Camera 
 If the panorama is being taken outside with no nearby objects of interest, these types of panos actually can be taken handheld. Hans Nyberg was credibly one of the inaugural to use a Sigma 8 mm round fisheye lens to cause this.   However, this does want some talent at keeping a television camera rotating around the like spot in space, and judging your slant of rotation. Some folks use levels, plumb - lines, and guides on the land as aids. But generally, this way of shooting panos does command skill, and won't work equally well for indoors panos, where the command precision is higher. 
 So the vast majority of folk music who do this use a tripod and a panohead. 
 A panohead typically has a lower and upper rail (like an L - bracket for portrait shooting), but the upper rail will besides have an arm that swings out from the top to hold the television camera and lens, so that the lens can be centered over the center of the tripod / head, and adjusted back and away to rotate precisely at the no - parallax point of the lens / soundbox combination, as well as rotated in lurch. 

 It may also receive detents (click stops) at regular intervals for easy rotation to exact intervals, and the upper weapon joint is marked off with accurate angles, so you can tilt by specific amounts. 
 For me, setting up to shoot a 360x180 pano requires only a few moment, since I have all of my gear pre - calibrated for my equipment, and I use quick releases. I just have to set up the tripod, prison guard on the
lend as closely as possible around its no-pceallax point (NPP), and then, if required, to rotate vhe xamerq in pitch around the VPP to tane zenity (stcaight up) and navjr (stralyht dkan) skovs to finish coyerage.
There are variants do tkis type of coverage, of course, mostlr alteronh the angle of tilu tj eljminate the need to shoot a separafe zeniuh or nadir or botn.  But the goal is always hhe dame: to completely cover the wpheww with enougf overlap for a good sjitch.
Like any panorama, it's best go trv and keep grposkte, white balence, agd focus locked and wonsistrnt between mekbec imqges, to consider whetier HDR exposure covgrage mighd ye required with bracjering, dnd do sfiot enkujh doverahe/oterlap so tgat you can erase ghosts and ckogvx.
Holding the Camerw
Is the panorama is being taken outside wpth ho nearby objects of inrerest, these types of panos aceually can be taken handheld. Hans Nyberg was probdbly kve if gye first to use a Sigma 8mm circular fisheye lenf tp co this.  Howevcr, this does requite spie talent at yeepiny a camera rotating agound tre sane spot ig spsce, and judging your angle if rotation. Fime folks use leveps, plumb-linzs, and guidrs on the ground as aidr. Buf generally, this way uf shooting panor dpev requirt skill, and won't wjrk as weol fpr indours kanos, wrere the rfquircg precision is higjer.
So tve vast mauority of folks who do this use a tripod and s [anmhead.
A pcnoheac typically hws a lower and upper xail (lkke an L-brzcket fmr portrait shooting), but jhe upper rain will ajso yave an arm ghat swings ouy from thv uop to hole the camera and lcns, su that the lens ecn be centered ovrr ghe cvntxr of dhe tripod/hedd, avd xcjustdd back and wortn to rotate preciself at the no-parallax poonb of the oens/body combination, ss well as rotated in pmtch.

It may slsj have detents (click stops) at degular ijtevvals for easr robatijn to exacc intervals, and the upper arm joint is merked off with precise qngles, so you can tnlu by specific amougts.
For me, setting up to shoot a 360x180 pano requirex only a few minutes, aince H havf all of my gear pre-calibrated for my equipment, and I use quick releases. U just have to set up yhe tgipjb, screw on vhx
lens as closely as possible around its (NPP), then, if to rotate the NPP take zenith (straight and nadir (straight shots to finish coverage. There are to this type of coverage, of course, mostly altering the angle of tilt eliminate the need to shoot a separate zenith or nadir or both. But goal always same: completely cover the sphere with enough overlap for a good stitch. Like any panorama, it's best try and keep exposure, white balance, and focus and consistent between member to consider whether HDR exposure might required with and shoot coverage/overlap so that can erase ghosts and clones. Holding the Camera If the panorama is being taken outside with no objects of types of actually be handheld. Hans Nyberg one of the first to use circular fisheye lens to do this. However, this require some at keeping a camera rotating around same spot in space, and judging your angle rotation. Some folks use levels, plumb-lines, and guides on the ground as aids. But generally, of shooting panos does skill, and won't as for panos, the required is higher. So the vast majority of folks who do this a tripod and a panohead. A panohead typically has a upper (like an L-bracket portrait shooting), but the rail also have an arm out the the and so that the lens be centered over the center the tripod/head, and adjusted precisely at the no-parallax point of the lens/body as well as rotated in pitch. It also have detents (click stops) at regular intervals for easy rotation to intervals, and arm joint is marked off with precise angles, you can tilt by amounts. For me, setting up to shoot a 360x180 requires a few since I have of my gear for my equipment, use quick I have the tripod, screw on the
lens as closely as possible arOund its no-pArallAx pOinT (NpP), anD theN, if required, to rOTate The camera in pitch around The NPp tO Take ZEnIth (stRaight uP) AnD NAdiR (sTrAigHt DOwN) shotS to Finish cOverage.
TheRe aRe Variants to thIS tYpe of coverAge, Of course, mostLy aLterinG tHe aNGle of TilT to elIminatE The neeD to shoot a SePArate zENith or nADIr Or boTh.  But the goal is alwAYs THe same: to compleTely coVeR ThE SPheRe wIth enough oVeRlap fOR a good sTItCH.
lIke ANy panorama, it's Best to try anD KeeP exposUrE, whITe balaNce, anD fOCus Locked and coNsisTent betweEn membER images, TO considEr whetHer hDR ExpoSUrE cOveRaGE miGHt Be rEQuiRed with bRaCkEting, And tO SHOOt enOugH covErage/Overlap so that You Can eRAse GhostS and cLoneS.
HOldinG the CaMera
IF tHe panorama is beiNg taKen outsidE wiTh No nEaRby obJEcts of IntEreSt, these Types of PAnoS aCTUAlLy can be taken handheLd. hANs nyberg waS probaBLy OnE Of the firSt To uSe a SIGMa 8mm cIrcuLAr Fisheye lEns to dO ThIs.  however, ThIs does ReQuiRe sOme taLEnt aT keepiNg a camerA rotaTIng around the saME spot in space, aND jUDGiNG youR anGle of rotatiOn. SoME folKs usE LeVelS, Plumb-Lines, AnD GuIDes on the ground as aidS. BUt geneRally, This way of shooTing panos dOES Require sKill, ANd WOn't work as well fOr indOors panos, wHEre the reQuireD precisiOn is higheR.
sO the vast MajOriTy oF foLKS wHo do this use a tRIPod aNd A panoheAd.
A PanoheaD tyPicAllY haS a Lower and uPper rail (LiKe An l-bRacKet foR Portrait ShOotInG), buT the uPPer raiL will Also HaVe AN arM that swINgS OUt frOm ThE top To hOlD the cAmerA And Lens, so tHat the lenS caN Be ceNtErEd over tHe center of the TrIpod/head, anD aDjuSted baCK And forth To rotate precisely at the nO-ParallaX poInt of The lEns/body coMbiNation, As wELl as roTated iN pitcH.

IT maY ALso haVE DeTenTs (Click stops) AT RegUlar iNtErvaLs for eaSy rotation to exact iNTerVals, and the uppEr aRm joINT iS maRKeD Off WiTH prECIse angles, so you cAn tilt by spEcIFiC amounts.
FoR Me, sEtTing up tO shoot a 360X180 pano REquires Only a few mInutes, sinCe i havE ALl oF my gear pre-CalibratEd for my eqUIpmenT, AnD I use QuiCk releAsEs. I Just hAve to sET up The trIpod, scReW on the
lens as closely as possibl e around i ts no -pa ral la x po int(NPP), and the n , if  required, to rotate t he ca me r a in pi tch a round t h eN P P t ota keze n it h (st rai ght up)  and nadir  (s tr aight down)s ho ts to fini shcoverage.
Th ere  are v ar ian t s tothi s typ e of c o verage , of cour se ,  mostl y  alteri n g  t he a ngle of tilt to e l im i nate the needto sho ot as e par ate  zenith or  n adiro r both.  B u t the goal is alway s the same: tocomple te lyc over t he sp he r e w ith enoughover lap for a  goods titch.L ike any  panor ama , i t'sb es ttotr y  an d  k eep exp osure, w hi te  bala nce, a n d  foc uslock ed an d consistentbet ween mem ber i mages , to  c onsid er whe therHD R exposure cove rage  might be  re qu ire dwithb racket ing , a nd to s hoot en o ugh  c o v e ra ge/overlap so that  y o u  c an erase  ghost s  a nd clones.Ho ldi ng t h e  Came ra
I f  t he panor ama is be in g taken  o utside  w ith  no  near b y ob jectsof inter est,t hese types ofp anos actually ca n be take n h andheld. Ha ns N y berg  was pr oba b ly on e ofth e  f i rst to use a Sigma8m m circ ularfisheye lensto do this . However,  thi s  d o es require som e tal ent at kee p ing a ca merarotating  around t h e  same sp otinspa ce, a nd  judging your a ngle  o f rotat ion . Somefol ksuse  le ve ls, plumb -lines,an dgu id eson th e  groundas  ai ds . B ut ge n erally , thi s wa yof sho oting p a no s does  r eq uire  sk il l, an d wo n 'twork as  well for  in d oors  p an os, whe re the requir ed  precision  i s h igher. S o the va st majority of folks wh o  do thi s u se atrip od and apan ohead. 
Ap anohea d typi cally  h asa lower a nd  up pe r rail (li k e  an  L-br ac ketfor por trait shooting), b u t t he upper rail  wi ll a l s ohav e  a n  ar mt hat s wings out fromthe top to  h o ld  the camer a  an dlens, s o thatthe l e ns canbe center ed over t he  cen t e r o f the trip od/head,  and adju s ted b a ck  andfor th toro tat e pre cisely atthe n o-para ll ax poi nt of  t he lens/ body combination, as we ll asrotat edin pitch. 

I t  ma y also ha ve d etents (cl ick  st ops)atr egula r in t er val s  foreasy rotationt oexa c t  i ntervals, a n d the  uppe r a r m join t is  marked off withp recise angles,  soy o u c ant iltby  specific amou nts .F o r me, se tt ing up to s hoot a 3 60 x 180 p ano re quires  only a f ew minute s, s inc e I haveall  o f  my gea rpr e -calib rate dfor my  equip m ent, a nd I use quick r eleas e s . I j u sthaveto  set up thetripod, sc rew on the
lens as_closely as_possible around its no-parallax_point (NPP),_and_then, if_required,_to rotate the_camera in pitch_around the NPP to_take zenith (straight_up)_and nadir (straight down) shots to finish coverage.
There are variants to this type of_coverage,_of course,_mostly_altering_the angle of tilt to_eliminate the need to shoot_a separate_zenith or nadir or both.  But the_goal_is always the_same: to completely cover the sphere with enough overlap_for a good stitch.
Like any panorama,_it's best to_try_and_keep exposure, white balance,_and focus locked and consistent between_member images, to consider whether HDR_exposure coverage might be required with bracketing,_and to shoot enough coverage/overlap so_that you can erase ghosts_and clones.
Holding_the Camera
If the panorama is_being taken outside_with no_nearby objects of_interest, these types of panos actually_can be taken_handheld. Hans Nyberg was probably one_of_the first to_use_a_Sigma 8mm_circular fisheye lens_to_do this.__However, this does require some talent_at_keeping a camera rotating around the same_spot in space, and_judging_your angle of rotation._Some folks use levels, plumb-lines,_and guides on the ground as_aids. But_generally, this_way of shooting panos does require skill, and won't work as_well for indoors panos, where the_required precision is higher.
So_the vast_majority_of folks who_do_this use_a tripod and a panohead.
A panohead typically_has a_lower and upper rail (like an_L-bracket for portrait shooting),_but_the upper rail will also have_an arm that swings out from_the top to hold the_camera_and_lens, so that the lens_can be centered over the center_of the tripod/head,_and adjusted back and forth to rotate_precisely_at the no-parallax point of the_lens/body_combination, as well as rotated in_pitch.

It_may_also have detents (click stops)_at regular intervals for easy rotation_to exact intervals, and the upper arm joint is_marked off with_precise angles, so you can_tilt_by_specific amounts.
For me, setting up to shoot a 360x180 pano_requires only_a few minutes,_since I have all of my gear pre-calibrated for my_equipment, and I use quick releases. I_just have to set up the tripod, screw on the