FRENCH or English? One of the beautiful things about Montreal is that you never know in what language you will be greeted. Which brings up a second thing: Maybe it’s the good food, the open skies or the free-spirited students who call this city their campus, but the folks of Montreal are friendly. Ask someone for directions in the Métro, part of the vast Underground City that stays toasty during the winter, and you may end up making drinks plans later. That’s not a bad thing, bien sûr. With the city’s music-charged night life, slaughterhouse-chic restaurants and post-industrial revival, it helps to have a guide.

Friday

4:30 p.m.

1) GET WHEELS

Public bikes are sweeping Europe, so leave it to Montreal, “the other Paris,” to popularize the concept in North America. Some 5,000 gray-and-red Bixi bikes were deployed last spring, becoming an instant hit. Familiarize yourself with the system: it’s as easy as swiping a credit card at one of the 400 Bixi stations and going for a spin. (Go to bixi.com for details.) It’s one of the quickest ways to get around and, at 5 Canadian dollars (about the same in U.S. dollars) for 24 hours, among the cheapest. To find the nearest Bixi station, including a large one on Rue McGill with 20 docks, download one of the many iPhone apps that offer real-time updates on available bikes including Bixou Lite (free).

5 p.m.

2) DOWNTOWN ROLL

A bike is only as good as the network it’s on. And Montreal delivers, with 310-plus miles of bike lanes that crisscross the city, about half of which are physically separated from cars. To see why Montreal was designated a Unesco City of Design in 2006, point your handlebars toward the Lachine Canal, a former industrial waterfront that has been transformed into a lush green belt. The path is dotted with architectural gems like Habitat 67 (2600, avenue Pierre-Dupuy; habitat67.com), the Brutalist-style experiment in modular housing designed by Moshe Safdie. Or pedal along Boulevard de Maisonneuve, which cuts through downtown Montreal, where a 2.1-mile path was recently named after the late Claire Morissette, a cycling activist.

8 p.m.

3) QUÉBÉCOIS PLATES

Maybe it’s the hype, but Toqué!, once praised by critics as the city’s best restaurant, seems to have slipped. The most memorable thing about a recent dinner was the high price: 200 Canadian dollars for two, not including wine. Happily, Normand Laprise, who pioneered the use of fresh Québécois ingredients at Toqué!, opened a midpriced sister restaurant this summer, Brasserie t! (1425, rue Jeanne Mance; 514-282-0808; brasserie-t.com). Situated at the foot of the Contemporary Art Museum, the brasserie looks like a sleek cargo container. Inside, a contemporary French menu showcases unfussy dishes like grilled flank steak and cod brandade; early reviews have been favorable. Dinner for two: 60 dollars, without wine.