I've made three others so far, but this is the first one I'm posting here. Here is a link to the first three if you want to check them out, but the one I'm going to post now is the one I'm most proud of so far.This one gave me a lot of trouble (or I made a lot of trouble for myself), and I think was trying to teach me patience. The bend wasn't bad from the start, but the limbs were uneven. I had to let (what is now) the bottom limb catch up first, and in doing so went too far. Then while correcting a (slight) hinge they reversed again. Now the top limb is a tad weaker, but the bend on both limbs is very even. I am very happy with the tiller shape.My third bow was a modified pyramid that ended up at 40#. I was happy with this bow, but it started to develop a crack. As far as I can see, it's not fixable; it was in the fade of the top limb, which I can now kind of see -- looking back of course. This one, the fourth, started with the intention of being a copy of that one, but ended up a little different. The limb layout is two inches wide for the first four inches, and then a constant taper to the tips, which are around a half inch, I think a little less. On this one I decided to experiment with trapping the back on a whim. I like the way it looks, and it must have shaved some mass, but I don't know how much it "helped."I wasn't happy with how much string follow it was taking, so I decided to heat treat the belly. I was told not to heat treat a board unless the grain was "exceptional," but I went against this. The board/grain is about B grade (in my opinion) -- pretty darn good but not perfect. Starts to run out near the tips -- but I'm confident in it staying together. Anyway, back to the heat treat: It ended up uneven because I did it over coals at night time (...), but it was effective. It took out most of the string follow, which now sits at about 1 1/4" overnight (near 2" after unstringing -- of course I still have room for improvement here).The last thing worth mentioning is the handle. I know a lot of people have a hate-hate relationship with glued on handles, but for me, I want to make bows that I like shooting. I'm sure I will make some bendy-handles, but as of right now this is the way to go because it makes a comfortable grip for me. But I had some problems. After scaring me for a few days by making a tick noise, I realized the top third of the handle was lifting. I attribute this to a bad initial glue up and just a little bit of bend in/near the handle. I was pretty sure the handle was going to hold on, but it was getting noisier by the day so I decided to correct it somehow. I tried to force some glue back in at the glue line, and then went ahead and secured it with three 1/4" oak dowel pieces screwed through the handle into the bow proper. It still occasionally makes a tiny noise, but it's nothing compared to what it was. I'm confident it will hold on without driving me crazy now, but time will tell.Handle is off-center, 3/8" out of center, wrapped in jute. String is 12 strand BCY Force 10 (formerly Dynaflight 10). Finished with several coats of Danish Oil, and I'll probably do 1 more. Speed seems pretty good, by my judgement. (Compared to my vintage Pearson recurve.) Quieter than what I'm used to, but not silent, though I think I found the sweet spot. No real handshock, but I've never shot a really shocky bow to compare. Being cut more to center seems to help accuracy. Overall, I'm really happy with how it's shooting!OK! Stats then pics.Length: 66" nock-to-nockDraw weight: 45# @ 29"Species: Red oak (Home depot variety)Here's a link to the album if the embed doesn't work or you just want to see full size.