A Bay Area rite returns this week with the commercial Dungeness crab season tentatively set to open on Tuesday - and the beloved crustaceans hitting markets shortly afterward.

"People are expecting a fairly decent season again," said Zeke Grader, executive director of the Pacific Coast Federation of Fisherman's Associations in San Francisco.

While the crabbing season north of Point Arena has been delayed by two weeks to Dec. 15, the start of the local season remains on track, and Grader expects there to be plenty of good-sized crab in time for Thanksgiving.

Crab populations tend to peak every six to 10 years, and he believes this season could be near the pinnacle of the current cycle. Last season was among the best in history, he said, with an emerging export market helping to bolster prices for the modest catch.

The possible downside?

"I don't think any of us want to see all our crab exported to mainland China just because they outbid everybody," Grader said.

Assuming the usual last-minute pricing negotiations are settled, look for Dungeness crab to show up in earnest over the next week.

My family grew up eating crab either steamed or stir-fried. The former, my favorite, highlights the sweet and delicate meat, especially when it's dressed with a sprinkling of lemon juice.

The latter we reserved for special occasions, messily - and happily - indulging in crab coated in a garlicky black bean sauce or XO sauce.

It's the kind I'll be serving company this year, in large part because of its hands-on, finger-licking nature. Savoring every morsel of meat and irresistible sauce requires getting messy. And I, for one, can't think of a more festive way to gather friends around the table.