broken door latch
the lower hook on the door latch has broken off. don't ask, it's complicated... i have the door apart and am looking for a source for a new, double hooked door latch for this particular model. i haven't had any luck finding the part. does anyone have any vendors that might source this part?
thanks
the latch head (the part you describe) is ref # 5-7 in the parts list and is part # lstppa169wrf0

(that's a zero on the end, not an "oh")

you can get it from tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com

we have the entire service manual on our site: http://www.microwavedisplay.com/r930ak\_aw\_sm.pdf

i appreicate your rating. good luck!
I had same problem it is a ground wire broken in the harness rubber boot between dthe driver door. Peel back the rubber that protects wires and you will find broken ground wire(black) add a piece of wire solder and wrap with electrical tape put rubber boot back into door everything should work. brother, you better get a manual. i think they teach a course in this at the local community college. seriously, i can't responsibly explain the procedure to you in a venue like this.
try this link: 
http://bit.ly/mitchell\_repair\_manuals\_online F\_O\_R
Take the latch points off your car and install them on the "new" one. good question. they sometimes say one man's junk is another man's treasure! feel free to check out www.markitx.com - we're creating a transparent secondary it market for enterprises to buy, sell and trade their used hardware. if you have questions you can always pm me! If you can see the slight warp, one or more solder joints would likely have developed cracks (i.e. broken connection). Don't even think a service shop would recommend trying to get it fixed. From Kitchen Aid they only come on a new motor. I am a Kitchen Aid service agent and I remove them from burnt out motors and keep them. Look for a service agent near you and see if they can help you out. I have no idea where you are, I'm in New Zealand. the clutch might be smelly, but is it slipping or doing anything else untoward. clutches are a regularly reported problem on one-tonne utes, which suggests most are borderline in capacity. if there is a problem with the functioning of the clutch, approach mazda again about replacing it. if there isn't a problem think about replacing the clutch with a heavy-duty one that's more capable of handling your towing needs. You'll want to check a few details on the trailer so you can select compatible replacement parts. 

First, you want to confirm the axles' rated capacity; this should be noted on a sticker or plate on the axles themselves. Based on the info you provided it may be that you have two 3500-lb axles. Your brakes and hubs must match the axle rating.

Next you'll want to take note of the size of the current brakes. You need to confirm the diameter and depth. You also want to note their mounting bolt pattern so you can match this as well. The linked page will show you all 3.5K hydraulic drum brakes; all of these happen to be the 10 x 2-1/4-inch size with a 4-bolt mounting pattern like left and right free-backing brakes # AKFBBRK-35-D. (Free-backing brakes allow for reversing your trailer without need for a lockout on the coupler.)

With free-backing brakes you can use a standard coupler (with no reverse lockout) such as 7.5K-rated # 099-175-00 from Dexter which is a fit for 2 inch hitch balls. It bolts to a 3-inch-wide trailer tongue. You'll need a brake line kit like # 24TA-BLKIT.

For hub/drums you can use the linked page to select your wheel bolt pattern, axle rating and your bearings. New hub/drums must use the same inner and outer bearing as your current hubs. For example, if you need 5-on-4-1/2 hubs with inner bearing 68149 and outer bearing 44649 then you can use Dexter hub/drum # 84546UC3.

Please feel free to let me know the details noted above and I'll be glad to help you select the items you need. hi there! so i don’t have a workaround for you, as i’m not familiar with using rust on glitch, but i have let the team know that it’s due for an update. because rust is not a language we officially support, i don’t anticipate this being something we do in the near future, but i’ll post an update in … Hello,  
  
Put in new batteries and try again.  
  
If new batteries did not solve the problem, the next thing to check would be the battery terminal.  
  
If
 the battery terminal is rusty, the battery power won't contact and the 
calculator won't turn on. So, use a flat small screw drive to scratch 
the battery terminal so that there would be contact.  
  
If the above
 is not the problem, the next to check would be the wire connecting the 
battery terminal to the the calculator's main board. There is a wire 
between the battery terminal and the calculator board. When the battery 
is inserted, the power from the battery goes from the terminal to the 
board through this wire. There is a possibility that this wire is cut 
in-between or is loosing contact. In this case, you need to get a small 
screw driver and carefully disassemble the calculator in order to check 
the wire.  
  
If the wire is intact, use a light brush to brush the calculator board as there might be dust on the board.  
  
If non of the above helps, then it means the calculator is dead and needs a replacement.  
  
Regards.