no power to dryer after wiring mishap?
my buddy/roommate replaced the three prong with a four but swapped the live and neutral (red and black). it turned on no problem at first but i noticed some smoke coming from the back so we unplugged it. it hasn’t worked since. we already replaced the board, the interface and checked all the wiring. even bypassed the fuse as a last ditch effort so see if we could get it on. nothing. no burnt wiring or anything. what else should we check?
how to dispose of old appliances.
problem is a bad capacitor on the power board. caution if repairing yourself as capacitors in tv's hold a charge long after set is powered off and can be lethal. 
  
 when looking at your power board for a bad cap look at the top of the capacitors. a bad cap will have a noticable "bulging" on the top of it compared to others. be sure to note polarity of capacitor (will have a "-" on one side indicating negative. to fix on/off issue simply unsoldered bad capacitor and solder in a new one with same voltage and capacitance rating being sure the new capacitor is oriented the same as the old one was before it was removed. how did you verify "no spark"?

if you do not have spark, you'll have to perform troubleshooting of your ignition system. 

you have a distributor, an ignitor, a coil a cap and rotor and a camshaft position sensor. if there is indeed no spark, these components will all need to be inspected. hi everyone, just to close this topic, i could get a proper power supply and in fact it was the problem..

thaks everyone for your time and help ! i connected the gpu with the psu pcle cable did that caused the smoke?

probably. the pcie slot cannot deliver as much power as the extra connector (which does not go through the motherboard). however, i am thinking the gpu was already bad...when it went bad it probably took out that part of the original psu. once you put in a new psu which didn't go bad something had to give...and it was likely the power along that second connector which made it possible to smoke. Hello,  
  
Put in new batteries and try again.  
  
If new batteries did not solve the problem, the next thing to check would be the battery terminal.  
  
If
 the battery terminal is rusty, the battery power won't contact and the 
calculator won't turn on. So, use a flat small screw drive to scratch 
the battery terminal so that there would be contact.  
  
If the above
 is not the problem, the next to check would be the wire connecting the 
battery terminal to the the calculator's main board. There is a wire 
between the battery terminal and the calculator board. When the battery 
is inserted, the power from the battery goes from the terminal to the 
board through this wire. There is a possibility that this wire is cut 
in-between or is loosing contact. In this case, you need to get a small 
screw driver and carefully disassemble the calculator in order to check 
the wire.  
  
If the wire is intact, use a light brush to brush the calculator board as there might be dust on the board.  
  
If non of the above helps, then it means the calculator is dead and needs a replacement.  
  
Regards. that is where i'd start as well. osi...
so:
1. physical link (maybe check the patch panel and the cabling that's involved in connecting to the computer, maybe swap cables and try a usb to ethernet adapter to rules the nic out.
2. data link - check the switches and switchports on the way. maybe try to use different portts
3. network - most likely not an issue if all the other computers are working fine...
etc.
but this is pretty much it: I had same problem it is a ground wire broken in the harness rubber boot between dthe driver door. Peel back the rubber that protects wires and you will find broken ground wire(black) add a piece of wire solder and wrap with electrical tape put rubber boot back into door everything should work. if you want it cleaner you have to use more particles.

try with the vanilla emitter helppatch whats the particle max for your system.

test it adding one component at a time to find out what causes the particlesystem to not funktion any more. general procedure: make sure the engine is cool. loosen hose clamp where lower radiator hose attaches to engine - pull forward. place clean pan under hose to catch coolant that might spill out. pull hose off. catch coolant in pan. remove bolts on the fitting that the hose was attached to. remove gasket. remove thermostat (note how it was positioned and which side was facing out before removing -- there may be an alignment notch). install the new thermostat (the way the original was sitting,with the little "barbell" at 12:00) and gasket. re-attach hose fitting w/bolts. re-attach hose and clamp. put coolant that spilled out back in radiator. start engine and allow to warm up and check for leaks. note - if you need to remove your alternator so as to access the nuts holding the thermostat cover remember to disconnect battery before removing the alternator leads to prevent shorting. good post on parts location and repair procedure. only thing i'd like to add is antifreeze has a limited life before it loses it's ph balance and will turn acidic or base, either one will cause corrosion in the cooling system. loss of additives can also cause the cooling system to start acting as a ground conductor which will damage the cooling system. there are many different ideas on when to change, i try to change mine every 3 years or 24k miles. if you want there are test strips to check ph balance, protection temp and phosphate levels (prevent oxygen molecules from collecting around cylinder liners and etching them - usually more problematic on diesels). hth, dave If you can see the slight warp, one or more solder joints would likely have developed cracks (i.e. broken connection). Don't even think a service shop would recommend trying to get it fixed.