Victron ESS Three phase problem





We did yesterday an installation (Fronius Symo at AC-in) with ET340 meter, 1x Multiplus II GX, 2x Multiplus II 3000VA (last version with M8 battery terminals), and 15kWh BYD. Updated the firmware of all the inverters to 2629. GX version is 2.3. Phase numbers and direction its fine, works fine "default mode", with the three inverters charging the batteries from the grid, and inverting, but with ESS, it syncronizes with the grid for about 1second, and goes back to ESS invert mode. There's no error at all at the Venus, no #11 error, nothing, no explanation why is behaving like that. Grid is "other", and mains voltage is perfect, about 227v 50.2Hz.


  



Any help?


  



Thanks!
Just so you know, the fault was that the "Ac-in" cable going from the main circuit breaker box into the garage (where the system is located), didnt had the neutral connected to the bus bar (on the main box). Electrician how did the house wiring fforgot to connect it.. strange it was showing 230v in on the inverters, but well, solved. Thanks.
clean the carbon from the egr passages,check all vacuum lines for splits,cracks,dry rotted. you fixed the evap problem,so now you have insufficient egr flow. your information is incomplete. you need to show the smartsdr cat configuration too.
try changing flowcontrol to none in vqlog hi everyone, just to close this topic, i could get a proper power supply and in fact it was the problem..

thaks everyone for your time and help ! Here are a few things to try to help you diagnois your problem.  

1.Check for corrosion on battery terminals and the fuses.   

  

2.Fuses are good - Did you check the fuse on the top of the solenoid?   

  

3. Take a screwdriver and jump the solenoid wires to start the engine. If it starts, then your starter is good. (could be a bad solenoid - but lets check some wires first)  

 Your solenoid operates when you hit the start button.  

 Your start button won't work until you turn the on/off switch on.  

 Your on/off switch only has power when you turn the key on.  

4 Use a test light to test the following:  

 Right Handlebar switch house - Test to see if you have power to on/off switch - Turn your ignition key on & off to see the testlight come on - if light comes on that means your igntion switch is good. If no light, the problem is in the igntion switch. or the main fuse to the igntion switch is bad.  

  

 If the light came on then you have power to one side of the on /off switch - test the on /off switch by turning it on and off. When switched to on you should have power to the other side of the on/off switch which is sending power to the rest of the bike which includes your starter button.  

 Test your start button with the test light by putting the test light on the solenoid - Turn key on - turn on/off switch on - push start button and see if the test light lights up. If the test light lights up that means that your solenoid fuse may be bad. It is located right on the top of the solenoid. If the fuse is good then that means your solenoid is bad. Replace it with a new one.  

 If the Test light did not come on then your starter button is not making contact and needs fixed or replaced.  

  

So follow the power with the test light until through each component until you come to the faulty one.  

  

NOTE: If its a blown fuse, check your wiring. You'll have to find out why the fuse blew and fix it or your fuse will just blow again. Could be a short somewhere, installing a battery wrong will blow fuses. have added psu to above post. (i added specs because i knew someone would ask. however i think it's a software issue.)

unlikely that it's the psu.

the current psu is a hx750i, and the previous psu was a hx650i. swapped over a year ago at least. this is a recent issue.


good, a lot of times this is the psu. but with an excellent unit, that's far less likely.

were you monitoring temperatures at the time? was there something specific you were doing similar in both times? really intermittent things can be hard to nail down. hey iphone xs users! the issue will be fixed in update 15.2 and this update is now available and it should fix the problem. so i have finally figured out the problem. my bios was out of date so i flashed it and now it works perfectly. the otg port does not support isochronous mode when in device mode. Hello guys  
  
I had the same problem. My LCD ViewSonic VX 924 has been blinking   
  
For repar it i changed the following capacitors : 100uF/400v  
330uF/25v and 330uF/35v   
  
if that always flickers you can also change the two 470uF/25v capacitors  
The link for a pic Alime and Capacitors   
http://img25.imageshack.us/my.php?image=alimefsp0351pi01.jpg  
  
DO NOT TOUCH NOTHING D'OTHERS ANS DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY CABLE BEFORE PROCEEDING Hello,  
  
Put in new batteries and try again.  
  
If new batteries did not solve the problem, the next thing to check would be the battery terminal.  
  
If
 the battery terminal is rusty, the battery power won't contact and the 
calculator won't turn on. So, use a flat small screw drive to scratch 
the battery terminal so that there would be contact.  
  
If the above
 is not the problem, the next to check would be the wire connecting the 
battery terminal to the the calculator's main board. There is a wire 
between the battery terminal and the calculator board. When the battery 
is inserted, the power from the battery goes from the terminal to the 
board through this wire. There is a possibility that this wire is cut 
in-between or is loosing contact. In this case, you need to get a small 
screw driver and carefully disassemble the calculator in order to check 
the wire.  
  
If the wire is intact, use a light brush to brush the calculator board as there might be dust on the board.  
  
If non of the above helps, then it means the calculator is dead and needs a replacement.  
  
Regards.