Is there only one cause of the ylod




i was doing a search for what causes the ylod and i found a web site [http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/PlayS...](http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/PlayStation-3-General/PS3-Yellow-lights-of-death-fix-it-worked-on-mine/m-p/39163155/page/2 "http://boardsus.playstation.com/t5/PlayStation-3-General/PS3-Yellow-lights-of-death-fix-it-worked-on-mine/m-p/39163155/page/2")


in case you have trouble finding it the site says that this person had the ylod right after a firmware update and they said they took the hard drive out and made it a slave on another computer and formatted it then re installed it and did a firmware update and that fixed it. so then i came to this site and the manual here says it's basically the same problem the xbox has. so i was wondering if anyone could tell me if this is either a more plausible cause of the ylod or if you know if it's another cause or if it's not plausible at all? any help would be appreciated. thanks.
Basically to answer your original question, these are a few things that can cause the YLOD:


Dead/Disconnected HDD


Cold-Joint between the CPU/RSX/EE(If your console has one)


Physical Damage to the Motherboard


Dead power supply


Not enough voltage from the power supply (Failing Power Supply)


Jammed/Disconnected Fan (Not Confirmed)


Overheating


Corrupted NAND Flash


Bad Update


Short Circuit
only thing i can think of is to maybe reflash the firmware. this is a known issue, we are currently working on it and it should be fixed in the 3.0 patch. problem is a bad capacitor on the power board. caution if repairing yourself as capacitors in tv's hold a charge long after set is powered off and can be lethal. 
  
 when looking at your power board for a bad cap look at the top of the capacitors. a bad cap will have a noticable "bulging" on the top of it compared to others. be sure to note polarity of capacitor (will have a "-" on one side indicating negative. to fix on/off issue simply unsoldered bad capacitor and solder in a new one with same voltage and capacitance rating being sure the new capacitor is oriented the same as the old one was before it was removed. i have determined the cause and a fix will be in the next version. hi everyone, just to close this topic, i could get a proper power supply and in fact it was the problem..

thaks everyone for your time and help ! that is where i'd start as well. osi...
so:
1. physical link (maybe check the patch panel and the cabling that's involved in connecting to the computer, maybe swap cables and try a usb to ethernet adapter to rules the nic out.
2. data link - check the switches and switchports on the way. maybe try to use different portts
3. network - most likely not an issue if all the other computers are working fine...
etc.
but this is pretty much it: last update: 
the ps4 is now working properly! 
the problems were a shorted capacitor on the backside of the board leading to the power management ic, as well as the control pin for the power supply 5v connector not being soldered on properly. i found flux residue around that connector and checked i… it looks like you are right, this appears to be an issue. i will make sure that it gets fixed soon. thank you for taking interest in my post.

i have solved the problem.it was mistake from my own part.

i have disabled some of the hardware detection services before the update.

i have disabled the "device install service" on the windows service

[[asas]](https://aws1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4x/5/0/9/509934b6660953c4e848dc95f40efd35d02bfe60.png "asas")

renabling it and rebooting it solved the … thanks. if anyone else comes here looking for a solution, i did manage to fix it by replaying the entire game.

i sent the bad save file to andy, so hopefully that helps with finding a preventative solution. :slightly\_smiling\_face: