[How is a J-Head Extruder Head attached to the Prusa i3 rework?](/79 "How is a J-Head Extruder Head attached to the Prusa i3 rework?")



I am building a Prusa i3 Rework, and I haven't been able to find out how to attach my J-Head extruder (see below), at the moment it's just kind of held there by pressure, but it seems there are two holes on ether side of it; not sure if they're meant to hold it in place, but it seems that way. 

 [![Image of two holes in the side of the x-carriage with a J-Head Extruder just below it, with ring exposed](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6Ggi.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6Ggi.jpg)

 Any suggestions as to what I should use to hold it in place? This is definitely a part that gets moved around alot.

 **update**

 [![Image of two holes in the side of the x-carriage with a J-Head Extruder just below it (pushed up a little bit)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvpOE.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qvpOE.jpg)
It looks like the hotend may not be all the way in, are you sure it's not stuck?

 If it's stuck and you can get it in further, those holes should go directly through the smaller ring on top of the J-Head. You just need to run a machine screw into each hole to secure the hotend. The screw will need to at least be flush with the other side to work correctly.
I am assuming that you have a 4 door sedan. If you want to remove the front door panel, it is held on with 4 or 5 torx screws, Under the armrest you will see 2 plastic cap covers. Gently pry the covers loose and the screws are inside. T20 I think. Where the inside release handle is you probably have a decorative strip(wood grain or painted plastic). At the end farthest from the handle, use a plastic wedge, or flat popsicle stick to pry the corner loose and gently pull the strip toward you. There will be 2 more screws under it. If your door has a plastic airbag emblem there is a screw under it. Otherwise there should be 1 screw hiding under the mirror switc on the armrest, or mirror switch cover. Using a small flat edge wedge pry between the panel and body at bottem until the panel pops loose.work your way around the entire panel. The top panel near the glass pulls toward you. Once the entire panel is loose, grabbing the armrest,pull the panel straight upwards. Be careful when pulling up as to not pull too far. Your inner release cable is attached on the backside. When reinstalling the panel make sure that the rubber grommets are on the panel clips..they help keep water out. there is a lot to consider when you want to install a bigger window, because you will need to lengthen the header. if you’re unfamiliar with the term, it is the support beam across the tops of windows and doors that supports the load and protects doors and windows from being damaged by pressure from above. think of it a bit like a bridge that transfers the weight to either side of the window opening. and worth noting - replacing windows just to 'save money' or energy doesn't always make financial sense, read more here - 
when to replace windows and when to repair them
in order to be able to carry the load and transfer it to the support members on either side, it needs to be sized correctly for the span to ensure it doesn’t sag. for example, you may currently have a  2x6 header (which would be either doubled or perhaps tripled) that might need to be replaced with a 2x8 header, depending on how much greater the span will be. so there is a bit of engineering that may need to be done depending on just how much you are increasing the span, and that would depend largely on your local snow load.
as you can see from the diagram below, the header (#2 and triple in this case) is resting on what is called the jack post, which is secured to the king post. to enlarge the opening, you will need to remove enough wall section to replace those studs along with the header. note - this image includes a double bottom plate (#4), which is rather unsual and probably not necessary.

image courtesy of wikimedia

 
if it is a double-walled building envelope, make sure that you know which of the walls is the supporting wall, but you should see that by the location of the existing header. sometimes a double wall system will have a 2x6 supporting wall with an additional 2x4 interior wall simply for the purpose of adding additional insulation. below is a photo of a double wall system that may or may not look like yours, but in this example you can see that the exterior wall carries the load and holds the window, the interior wall is not load bearing, it is for insulation, and wiring is done in this wall as well so as not to compromise the air barrier. 

double wall construction ©  ecohome
​​​​​

about the windows, i’m not sure i understand your question about the double and triple pane. if it were me replacing windows, i would certainly purchase triple-pane for efficiency as well as comfort, but you do not need more than one window per opening if that is your question. just get really good ones. windows will always be the weakest point in a building envelope, that’s just part of life, and good reason to buy higher quality.
and lastly, i’m not familiar with where se wi is off the top of my head, but google is telling that’s wisconsin, is that right? if so, we don’t know builders in that region, sorry. 
here are some pages that may also be of use to you, good luck with your renos! it's easier than it looks. working from the trunk: 1. locate the 2 retaining knobs (doohickeys that you fasten the trunk cargo net to) for the hard plastic trunk liner near to and inside of the rear light assembly. unscrew the knobs. 2. pulling back the plastic liner, locate the 4 studs (threaded posts). 3 will be located vertically in a line, the fourth, outboard and lower. using a 10mm wrench(small), remove 3 of the 4 nuts fastening the light assembly to the body. do not remove the lowest nut of the 3 in a vertical line, as this does not fasten the light assembly. don't lose the nuts or washers. working from the rear of the car: 1. hand pull the light assembly from the car body. 2. remove bad lamp. twist lamp socket and pull out of assembly. pull lamp and replace with #3057. reassemble: 1. test light prior to reassembly. 2. ensure gasket material for assembly and studs is intact, this keeps water/dust out and dampens movement (prevents rattling and increases the life of lamp). 3. use reverse instruction for reassembly. work safe and drink responsibly. brother, you better get a manual. i think they teach a course in this at the local community college. seriously, i can't responsibly explain the procedure to you in a venue like this.
try this link: 
http://bit.ly/mitchell\_repair\_manuals\_online hard to describe this, but remove the knee bolster and remove the upper mounting screws and remove shifter indactor and the steering column 4 nuts and lower down to get the upper bezel out, sometimes it is hard to pull out, then remove the 4 screws and pull the speed head out and unhook the rear wiring harness to replace the transmission vacuum modulator, you need to jack up the front passengers side of the car and support it on a jack stand. before starting, apply the park brake fully.you will need a rag, an ice cream pail and a 1/4 inch drive rachet, with universal and 12 inches of extensions and a 10 mm socket to remove the modulator hold down clamp bolt which is slightly above the modulator valve. remove the vacuum hose, remove the 10 mm bolt,catch the clamp, place drain pan(ice cream pail) under the modulator to catch tranny fluid if it drips. wiggle the old leaking unit out of the bore and remove the small diameter shaft from the old unit.insert the shaft into the new unit and carefully guide the new unit into the bore, wiggling it in all the way. grab the hold down clamp in your hand, and place it in its position to hold down the modulator, this clamp goes one way and rests on the flange of the modulator to hold it in firmly. install and tighten the bolt to approximately 15 foot pounds of torque, install the vacuum hose after blowing it out from the top, remove it from the vacuum tree by the brake booster(drivers side)and blow all the tranny fluid out, and if the hose is rubbery from being saturated in fluid, replace the top part which is about a foot long. road test the vehicle, and if you have an adjustable unit, adjust the shift points to where you would like them by turning the allen screw clockwise or counterclockwise. good luck.and don't forget to check the tranny fluid level! the grease that is their may be thick. get your hair dryer out and warm the total parts that rises and falls when you move your lever.  

continue to move the lever while you're heating the parts. you should notice a big change. try to clean off any old grease. after you do this use some good synthetic oil on the moving parts. i think it’s too early to think about h.266.

in any case if it will be supported then you need new hardware. seems to be solved by adding a method

find\_aac(x::base.broadcast.extruded) = x.x

not sure why it is needed, or is it enough. created a [pr](https://github.com/julialang/julia/pull/34112). The Redline 2-Piece Polypropylene Trailer Vent # HMAV2-AVT2 can be installed in any convenient location on your enclosed trailer where you have or can make a 3-inch diameter hole. These vents will work best when used in multiples, with some near the ceiling and some near the floor, to allow cooler air to enter through the lower vents and hotter air to exit through the upper vents.

I recommend you use a sealant for installation, such as silicone caulk or Loctite Urethane Sealant # L0150811. You'll also need to supply 9 installation screws per vent, such as either # 31071 for sheet metal or # 30587 for wood.