Installing Roadmaster Diode Wiring Kit # RM-15267 with Separate Wiring on RV and Towed Vehicle
I have a 2008 Nissan Frontier with separate wiring for turn signal, my motorhome also has separate wiring for turn signals. I installed the Roadmaster Diode 7-Wire to 6-Wire Flexo-Coil Wiring Kit Item # RM-15267
and the lights to towed vehicle do not work. The instructions say I may need the 3 to 2 converter. Is this correct and if so how is it wired to the #RM-15267?

Thanks
If both your motorhome and towed vehicle have a 3-wire system (separate stop and tail lights), then a converter like the Tow Ready # 118158 should not actually be needed. The converter is only needed if your motorhome has a 2-wire system (combined stop and tail lights) and your towed vehicle has the separate, 3-wire system. 

I have attached a wiring diagram that shows exactly how the kit should be installed for your specific application, where both the motorhome and vehicle have a separate wiring system. You will just need to install 2 additional Diodes # RM-792, along with the Roadmaster Wiring Kit # RM-15267 that you already have installed, to complete the setup.
I'm not sure on your truck but mine has relays. If you do have a relay getting hot then you need to check all your wiring from the headlights back. Check the switch also. it's easier than it looks. working from the trunk: 1. locate the 2 retaining knobs (doohickeys that you fasten the trunk cargo net to) for the hard plastic trunk liner near to and inside of the rear light assembly. unscrew the knobs. 2. pulling back the plastic liner, locate the 4 studs (threaded posts). 3 will be located vertically in a line, the fourth, outboard and lower. using a 10mm wrench(small), remove 3 of the 4 nuts fastening the light assembly to the body. do not remove the lowest nut of the 3 in a vertical line, as this does not fasten the light assembly. don't lose the nuts or washers. working from the rear of the car: 1. hand pull the light assembly from the car body. 2. remove bad lamp. twist lamp socket and pull out of assembly. pull lamp and replace with #3057. reassemble: 1. test light prior to reassembly. 2. ensure gasket material for assembly and studs is intact, this keeps water/dust out and dampens movement (prevents rattling and increases the life of lamp). 3. use reverse instruction for reassembly. work safe and drink responsibly. you have to have freon added by a shop, i tried adding freon and it didnt work for me it has to be done by a special machine i think it’s too early to think about h.266.

in any case if it will be supported then you need new hardware. From Kitchen Aid they only come on a new motor. I am a Kitchen Aid service agent and I remove them from burnt out motors and keep them. Look for a service agent near you and see if they can help you out. I have no idea where you are, I'm in New Zealand. the order of these attributes in your file is wrong. 
change it to this: 
/*first floor*/
switch bedroomlights "bedroom lights" <light> (ff\_bedroom) [ "switchable" ] { channel="wemo:socket:bedroomlights:state" }
switch testone "test one" <light> (ff\_bedroom) [ "swi… you can’t move a sim from an older (moto x1, x2, g1, g3, e1 or e2) to a new phone. you’ll need a byod sim: [bring your own phone to republic! | republic wireless](https://republicwireless.com/bring-your-own-phone/) Here are a few things to try to help you diagnois your problem.  

1.Check for corrosion on battery terminals and the fuses.   

  

2.Fuses are good - Did you check the fuse on the top of the solenoid?   

  

3. Take a screwdriver and jump the solenoid wires to start the engine. If it starts, then your starter is good. (could be a bad solenoid - but lets check some wires first)  

 Your solenoid operates when you hit the start button.  

 Your start button won't work until you turn the on/off switch on.  

 Your on/off switch only has power when you turn the key on.  

4 Use a test light to test the following:  

 Right Handlebar switch house - Test to see if you have power to on/off switch - Turn your ignition key on & off to see the testlight come on - if light comes on that means your igntion switch is good. If no light, the problem is in the igntion switch. or the main fuse to the igntion switch is bad.  

  

 If the light came on then you have power to one side of the on /off switch - test the on /off switch by turning it on and off. When switched to on you should have power to the other side of the on/off switch which is sending power to the rest of the bike which includes your starter button.  

 Test your start button with the test light by putting the test light on the solenoid - Turn key on - turn on/off switch on - push start button and see if the test light lights up. If the test light lights up that means that your solenoid fuse may be bad. It is located right on the top of the solenoid. If the fuse is good then that means your solenoid is bad. Replace it with a new one.  

 If the Test light did not come on then your starter button is not making contact and needs fixed or replaced.  

  

So follow the power with the test light until through each component until you come to the faulty one.  

  

NOTE: If its a blown fuse, check your wiring. You'll have to find out why the fuse blew and fix it or your fuse will just blow again. Could be a short somewhere, installing a battery wrong will blow fuses. to replace the transmission vacuum modulator, you need to jack up the front passengers side of the car and support it on a jack stand. before starting, apply the park brake fully.you will need a rag, an ice cream pail and a 1/4 inch drive rachet, with universal and 12 inches of extensions and a 10 mm socket to remove the modulator hold down clamp bolt which is slightly above the modulator valve. remove the vacuum hose, remove the 10 mm bolt,catch the clamp, place drain pan(ice cream pail) under the modulator to catch tranny fluid if it drips. wiggle the old leaking unit out of the bore and remove the small diameter shaft from the old unit.insert the shaft into the new unit and carefully guide the new unit into the bore, wiggling it in all the way. grab the hold down clamp in your hand, and place it in its position to hold down the modulator, this clamp goes one way and rests on the flange of the modulator to hold it in firmly. install and tighten the bolt to approximately 15 foot pounds of torque, install the vacuum hose after blowing it out from the top, remove it from the vacuum tree by the brake booster(drivers side)and blow all the tranny fluid out, and if the hose is rubbery from being saturated in fluid, replace the top part which is about a foot long. road test the vehicle, and if you have an adjustable unit, adjust the shift points to where you would like them by turning the allen screw clockwise or counterclockwise. good luck.and don't forget to check the tranny fluid level! I had same problem it is a ground wire broken in the harness rubber boot between dthe driver door. Peel back the rubber that protects wires and you will find broken ground wire(black) add a piece of wire solder and wrap with electrical tape put rubber boot back into door everything should work.