Choosing Replacement Trailer Brakes, Hubs and Actuator for 1978 Calkins Tandem Axle Boat Trailer
Hi, 
I need to rebuild the brake system on a 1978 calkins tandem boat trailer. It originally came with a 1979 21foot glasply boat which weighs about 5500lbs. I believe it was rated at 6900 lbs. i need to replace the actuator, all lines, drums brakes and hubs. The 14inch tires and wheels seem ok. Can you help me assemble a parts list? Soaps I dont leave anything out. Thanks.
You'll want to check a few details on the trailer so you can select compatible replacement parts. 

First, you want to confirm the axles' rated capacity; this should be noted on a sticker or plate on the axles themselves. Based on the info you provided it may be that you have two 3500-lb axles. Your brakes and hubs must match the axle rating.

Next you'll want to take note of the size of the current brakes. You need to confirm the diameter and depth. You also want to note their mounting bolt pattern so you can match this as well. The linked page will show you all 3.5K hydraulic drum brakes; all of these happen to be the 10 x 2-1/4-inch size with a 4-bolt mounting pattern like left and right free-backing brakes # AKFBBRK-35-D. (Free-backing brakes allow for reversing your trailer without need for a lockout on the coupler.)

With free-backing brakes you can use a standard coupler (with no reverse lockout) such as 7.5K-rated # 099-175-00 from Dexter which is a fit for 2 inch hitch balls. It bolts to a 3-inch-wide trailer tongue. You'll need a brake line kit like # 24TA-BLKIT.

For hub/drums you can use the linked page to select your wheel bolt pattern, axle rating and your bearings. New hub/drums must use the same inner and outer bearing as your current hubs. For example, if you need 5-on-4-1/2 hubs with inner bearing 68149 and outer bearing 44649 then you can use Dexter hub/drum # 84546UC3.

Please feel free to let me know the details noted above and I'll be glad to help you select the items you need.
wheels-76mm gravity 
bearings- gravity abec 5
trucks- randal 180 mm ktm rc 390 features a saddle height of 820 mm which may not be suitable as per the requirement. however, we'd recommend taking a test ride of the bike in order to get acquainted with the performance and compatibility. click on the following link for dealership details and select your city accordingly - ktm bike showrooms to replace the transmission vacuum modulator, you need to jack up the front passengers side of the car and support it on a jack stand. before starting, apply the park brake fully.you will need a rag, an ice cream pail and a 1/4 inch drive rachet, with universal and 12 inches of extensions and a 10 mm socket to remove the modulator hold down clamp bolt which is slightly above the modulator valve. remove the vacuum hose, remove the 10 mm bolt,catch the clamp, place drain pan(ice cream pail) under the modulator to catch tranny fluid if it drips. wiggle the old leaking unit out of the bore and remove the small diameter shaft from the old unit.insert the shaft into the new unit and carefully guide the new unit into the bore, wiggling it in all the way. grab the hold down clamp in your hand, and place it in its position to hold down the modulator, this clamp goes one way and rests on the flange of the modulator to hold it in firmly. install and tighten the bolt to approximately 15 foot pounds of torque, install the vacuum hose after blowing it out from the top, remove it from the vacuum tree by the brake booster(drivers side)and blow all the tranny fluid out, and if the hose is rubbery from being saturated in fluid, replace the top part which is about a foot long. road test the vehicle, and if you have an adjustable unit, adjust the shift points to where you would like them by turning the allen screw clockwise or counterclockwise. good luck.and don't forget to check the tranny fluid level! as per the manual 28psi in the front and 33 in the back. same with pillion. but you can adjust that according to your weight and where you ride the bike. think about what the difference is between turning the bike up side spinning the wheels and the wheels spinning while riding the bike? it's simple when riding the bike it's bearing weight. it's very possible you could have hub issues.

do as old hippie suggested take the bike to a reputable bicycle shop. sadly many fish have been killed while following the misinformation printed on the bottle of bottled bacteria. it can't make a tank instantly safe for fish. for some it has sped up the cycling process but it doesn't instantly cycle a tank.

if you choose to try again i would do a total tank clean out and start over. you are early enough in the cycling process to do this. if you choose to do a fish in cycle i will recommend you purchase an api master freshwater test kit. with it you can know exactly what is going on in this tank. it tests for ph (both high and low), ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. i will also recommend you get a bottle of seachem prime. it is first and foremost a water conditioner but goes one step farther and detoxed low levels of ammonia.

once you have these 2 things and have cleaned the tank out i will recommend you use your tap water with the proper dose of prime added to it to remove chlorine/chloramines. if the minerals hadn't been added back into the ro water you added, that too could have added to the death of your fish.

once all these things have been done get one fish. bettas are about the only fish i can recommend for a tank this size. once the fish is in there it will start producing ammonia. it will take a few days before you start seeing ammonia in the tank. don't ever let the ammonia get any higher than .5 even lower is better but with prime your fish should be fine at this level.

water changes as the ammonia starts rising is going to protect you new water pet. at some point you are going to start seeing nitrites. when that happens you don't want the total amount of ammonia plus nitrites to get above 1.0 keep them down with water changes. be sure to add prime with every water change. no matter what the test say never go longer than a week between water changes. with a tank this small things can go bad quickly so keep a close eye on the numbers. take this to a professional that can properly diagnose this problem, this approach you're taking is going to cause more problems and cost much more than if the problem was diagnosed prior to replacing parts.
http://repairpal.com/buick-repair-in-new-castle-delaware the clutch might be smelly, but is it slipping or doing anything else untoward. clutches are a regularly reported problem on one-tonne utes, which suggests most are borderline in capacity. if there is a problem with the functioning of the clutch, approach mazda again about replacing it. if there isn't a problem think about replacing the clutch with a heavy-duty one that's more capable of handling your towing needs. hard to describe this, but remove the knee bolster and remove the upper mounting screws and remove shifter indactor and the steering column 4 nuts and lower down to get the upper bezel out, sometimes it is hard to pull out, then remove the 4 screws and pull the speed head out and unhook the rear wiring harness it's easier than it looks. working from the trunk: 1. locate the 2 retaining knobs (doohickeys that you fasten the trunk cargo net to) for the hard plastic trunk liner near to and inside of the rear light assembly. unscrew the knobs. 2. pulling back the plastic liner, locate the 4 studs (threaded posts). 3 will be located vertically in a line, the fourth, outboard and lower. using a 10mm wrench(small), remove 3 of the 4 nuts fastening the light assembly to the body. do not remove the lowest nut of the 3 in a vertical line, as this does not fasten the light assembly. don't lose the nuts or washers. working from the rear of the car: 1. hand pull the light assembly from the car body. 2. remove bad lamp. twist lamp socket and pull out of assembly. pull lamp and replace with #3057. reassemble: 1. test light prior to reassembly. 2. ensure gasket material for assembly and studs is intact, this keeps water/dust out and dampens movement (prevents rattling and increases the life of lamp). 3. use reverse instruction for reassembly. work safe and drink responsibly.