setup of new camera with light-burn, kicking off lens calibration runs indefinitely
i am running the latest level of lb and trying to setup usb camera for the first time. i bought and installed this one:

<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/b0869cb4dg/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=utf8&psc=1>

its not a fish-eye. camera is about 30’’ from the image/bed. as soon as i kick off th…
try this version:

<https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ffegjdy1563skl8qrnxtcngwg4vra_7-/view?usp=sharing>

we’re still working through some compatibility issues with the new os. it seems if i use the framework version that solves some of the visual glitches it messes up camera compatibility.
here is a good system, camera plus lens: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/767600-reg/nikon\_d3100\_digital\_slr\_camera.html

please be aware that in some cases prices for cameras are prices for body only; the lens is extra.

and, stay away from the 'grey market' products. on some cameras, there is a setting in the menu screen to adjust the brighness of the screen. i would also suggest just using the viewfinder to take pictures as well. hey,

there might be not enough power for your usb devices after you draw some with your ffc camera.

what are you powering the board with? try dc jack with a beefier power supply.

cheers,

olex * choosing a **first hunting rifle** involves a lot more than just getting measurements and caliber right. there are other considerations that new adult hunters should be thinking about when they pull the trigger on their **first hunting rifle**. like all hobbies, starting with an entry-level piece of gear or equipment is a practical **first** step. since the image is formed on the screen, the image is real. a concave lens cannot form a real image. therefore, the lens is convex.object distance, u = -30 cmimage distance, v = +60 cmaccording to lens formula:f = +20 cmmagnification of convex lens, m = thus the image of the candle flame is 6 cm high and inverted (as indicated by the –ve sign) I suggest you start with Learning how to use Lightroom Classic. You can do that by viewing some of the Adobe supplied Tutorials.


 


<https://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom-classic/tutorials.html> just ask for 35mm film.
it is the "standard" for any 35mm camera.

the holga is basically a toy camera. 
some have a hot shoe and some have built in flash. > 
> 
> | [meljtabb](/adobe-users/10558700) wrote:I'm not sure if this is a color space issue or a calibration issue or something else entirely.  |
> 
> 

You seem to be using the Windows Photos App, which is not color managed, and will not display correct colors.

Lightroom is color managed, and will display correct colors, as long as the monitor profile is correct.

This difference in color is more pronounced if you have wide gamut monitor, in which case you have to use only color managed applications to view your work.

Bridge and [Irfanview](http://www.irfanview.com/) are both free and color managed (you have to enable color management under Settings in Irfanview).

On Windows 10, the Windows Photo Viewer is apparently still color managed, but it's hidden somewhere. Do a search for it.

A paid option is the latest version of ACDSee (20).


> 
> 
> | My camera (Nikon D750) is set to sRGB |
> 
> 

The color space you set in the camera only affects jpgs (and the jpg embedded in the raw files), if you shoot raw, it doesn't matter which color space you choose. it looks like you are right, this appears to be an issue. i will make sure that it gets fixed soon. i think it’s too early to think about h.266.

in any case if it will be supported then you need new hardware.