is it ok to build a retaining wall and then back fill it after?
we are adding a second, ground floor level to our home. the soil being excavated from under the house needs to go somewhere, so we thought to build a wooden retaining wall and then when the machines come in to liftthe house and excavate, they could backfill the space as they go. the area to be filled is quite large - 6' vertical x 40' plus long x 20' wide...or thereabouts. 

will this work? and if so, how will we back fill the gravel/drainage/weeping pipes if they are working?

all ideas and alternate thoughts welcomed! 
thank you in advance for any answers.
this could be tricky. i would build the wall as you go. remember to place a perforated drainage pipe behind the wall, at the bottom, and some 2b stone to accommodate water removal away from the wall. pitch the wall back a little every course, and if you are using 4 by 4's or 6 by 6's, remember to place a 4 by 4 every so often from the wall (attached to the wall) back into the soil. these beams will help the wall from moving forward due to the weight and pressure of the soil.
you can find good examples on the internet.
good luck!
I am myself a structural engineer, there's no reason you can't use timber. From what I understand of what you're saying, its the beam that trims the stairs and the wall is built off of it going up to your loft. If the wall you mention is stud, not solid brick or block, timber could well be man enough for the job - but I'd expect to see a large timber beam, or 2 or 3 joists joined together to form a wide beam. If you're in doubt ask a local structural engineer to make an assessment and size a new steel if required. You will be looking at around £250 - £350 for their services (estimated by your description). there is a lot to consider when you want to install a bigger window, because you will need to lengthen the header. if you’re unfamiliar with the term, it is the support beam across the tops of windows and doors that supports the load and protects doors and windows from being damaged by pressure from above. think of it a bit like a bridge that transfers the weight to either side of the window opening. and worth noting - replacing windows just to 'save money' or energy doesn't always make financial sense, read more here - 
when to replace windows and when to repair them
in order to be able to carry the load and transfer it to the support members on either side, it needs to be sized correctly for the span to ensure it doesn’t sag. for example, you may currently have a  2x6 header (which would be either doubled or perhaps tripled) that might need to be replaced with a 2x8 header, depending on how much greater the span will be. so there is a bit of engineering that may need to be done depending on just how much you are increasing the span, and that would depend largely on your local snow load.
as you can see from the diagram below, the header (#2 and triple in this case) is resting on what is called the jack post, which is secured to the king post. to enlarge the opening, you will need to remove enough wall section to replace those studs along with the header. note - this image includes a double bottom plate (#4), which is rather unsual and probably not necessary.

image courtesy of wikimedia

 
if it is a double-walled building envelope, make sure that you know which of the walls is the supporting wall, but you should see that by the location of the existing header. sometimes a double wall system will have a 2x6 supporting wall with an additional 2x4 interior wall simply for the purpose of adding additional insulation. below is a photo of a double wall system that may or may not look like yours, but in this example you can see that the exterior wall carries the load and holds the window, the interior wall is not load bearing, it is for insulation, and wiring is done in this wall as well so as not to compromise the air barrier. 

double wall construction ©  ecohome
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about the windows, i’m not sure i understand your question about the double and triple pane. if it were me replacing windows, i would certainly purchase triple-pane for efficiency as well as comfort, but you do not need more than one window per opening if that is your question. just get really good ones. windows will always be the weakest point in a building envelope, that’s just part of life, and good reason to buy higher quality.
and lastly, i’m not familiar with where se wi is off the top of my head, but google is telling that’s wisconsin, is that right? if so, we don’t know builders in that region, sorry. 
here are some pages that may also be of use to you, good luck with your renos! the collection of images type of tileset can contain tiles of any size. when the tiles are larger than the map grid, they extend beyond their cell, overlapping other tiles. they still occupy only a single cell on the tile layer.

larger tiles than the grid are commonly used to make it easier to plac… Unless the walls are perfectly flat around the switches (most walls aren't) and the metal back boxes are deep enough to accommodate the switch properly, they will never be a good fit and will sit awkwardly with one or more edges sitting slightly proud.

When you see these low profile flat plate switches in the shops they are always mounted on nice flat pieces of wood or plastic so look great. Once fitted in the home, the reality is somewhat different! Hi my name is Keith from kl window doctor. All upvc should have a drainage holes face drained or concealed underneath and sometimes they get blocked which means you have to take each unit out and pour water out of a small jug into the drain holes at the bottom and you should see the water come out underneath hey thibaut,

i believe what you want to try is adding is a rectangle object that fills the rest of the screen but is a 0% opacity background. this may help to keep the object from resizing for the screen. Dear visitor,  
Unfortunately, the statement of your question is a bit confusing.   
What do you need to be done? Please, give us the details so we could help you. mapping is the 3rd rail of cad software. most pd's cannot maintain gis files, etc. the best solution i've seen is what we have now. our system uses google maps (browser based) with a system layer over it. so, either it geo codes the address after the call is saved or it uses the lat/long we enter on the geo file in our system. we can also geo code officer alerts to the map. so much easier. we also have browser based maps from our gis analyst that has more parcel info but only dispatchers reference it. best bet is to add a layer over the google map with your boundaries. i actually spoke to my vendor and they are going to add a boundary layer to our stuff as well. it's a good idea. good for you! yes, stay sober for a looong time (maybe a bit of healthy wine/beer will be ok). but those lost years and the abilities/skills won't just come in a delivery truck. you need to develop them and you can. even if you were older - but you're not. it will be ok. plants usually catch up if planted late in our garden. stay on track. good luck. see more... ![](https://s3mn%20mnimgs%20com/img/shared/discuss_editlive/4110270/2012_11_30_15_28_05/vvnzofse6383734697724592802%20png)


let the length of path be a m


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area of lawn = total area â€“ area of
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area of lawn


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