Amtrol 41 hot water maker :not working when calling for hot water,contols are on showing temp,but tank is cold.oil fired boiler is fine,the whole system is 5 yrs old.
Hi,  

The problem is probably with the circulator pump or the zone valve, which ever way your water circulating from the boiler is controled.  

The water needs to be moved through the boiler and the coils in the Hot water maker to heat water. If this is not happening then no water will be heated.  

Check for power and then is the pump is running or the zone valve opening.  

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!  

  

Thanks for using Fixya!!  

  

Heatman101
I'm not sure on your truck but mine has relays. If you do have a relay getting hot then you need to check all your wiring from the headlights back. Check the switch also. Hello,  
  
Put in new batteries and try again.  
  
If new batteries did not solve the problem, the next thing to check would be the battery terminal.  
  
If
 the battery terminal is rusty, the battery power won't contact and the 
calculator won't turn on. So, use a flat small screw drive to scratch 
the battery terminal so that there would be contact.  
  
If the above
 is not the problem, the next to check would be the wire connecting the 
battery terminal to the the calculator's main board. There is a wire 
between the battery terminal and the calculator board. When the battery 
is inserted, the power from the battery goes from the terminal to the 
board through this wire. There is a possibility that this wire is cut 
in-between or is loosing contact. In this case, you need to get a small 
screw driver and carefully disassemble the calculator in order to check 
the wire.  
  
If the wire is intact, use a light brush to brush the calculator board as there might be dust on the board.  
  
If non of the above helps, then it means the calculator is dead and needs a replacement.  
  
Regards. hiyou're talking to fellow pp customers on this forum. but we will help if we can.heres a link for you to have a look at:https://community.purepla.net/smart-meters-and-ihds-33/if-i-switch-supplier-will-my-smart-meter-work-10329 have added psu to above post. (i added specs because i knew someone would ask. however i think it's a software issue.)

unlikely that it's the psu.

the current psu is a hx750i, and the previous psu was a hx650i. swapped over a year ago at least. this is a recent issue.


good, a lot of times this is the psu. but with an excellent unit, that's far less likely.

were you monitoring temperatures at the time? was there something specific you were doing similar in both times? really intermittent things can be hard to nail down. general procedure: make sure the engine is cool. loosen hose clamp where lower radiator hose attaches to engine - pull forward. place clean pan under hose to catch coolant that might spill out. pull hose off. catch coolant in pan. remove bolts on the fitting that the hose was attached to. remove gasket. remove thermostat (note how it was positioned and which side was facing out before removing -- there may be an alignment notch). install the new thermostat (the way the original was sitting,with the little "barbell" at 12:00) and gasket. re-attach hose fitting w/bolts. re-attach hose and clamp. put coolant that spilled out back in radiator. start engine and allow to warm up and check for leaks. note - if you need to remove your alternator so as to access the nuts holding the thermostat cover remember to disconnect battery before removing the alternator leads to prevent shorting. good post on parts location and repair procedure. only thing i'd like to add is antifreeze has a limited life before it loses it's ph balance and will turn acidic or base, either one will cause corrosion in the cooling system. loss of additives can also cause the cooling system to start acting as a ground conductor which will damage the cooling system. there are many different ideas on when to change, i try to change mine every 3 years or 24k miles. if you want there are test strips to check ph balance, protection temp and phosphate levels (prevent oxygen molecules from collecting around cylinder liners and etching them - usually more problematic on diesels). hth, dave your information is incomplete. you need to show the smartsdr cat configuration too.
try changing flowcontrol to none in vqlog > Hello. I have an HP Pavilion 4500 laptop and it won't turn on. I've tried everything to get it to turn back on. There are no flashes or beeps or anything when I hit the power button. Also, before all this came up, my charger wasn't charging correctly. It would turn on then turn off repeatedly. Then one day, my laptop shut off and didn't come back on anymore. I haven't been on my laptop in about 4-5 months now. Could someone please tell me what might be wrong with my laptop?
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> Thank you so much! :D
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you havent used it in almost half a year!!!! get yourself a correct charging unit for it that works properly and charge it. leave it out in a warm spot for a day before hand though. it sounds like its gotten very cold internally and also all the battery power has seeped away to nothing. this happens with rechargable batteries after a while. of course you wont get anything when you've got a dead battery. sounds like the charger you have already may be defective or your current battery is defective at least.  

At the other end of the scale though it could be that you laptops power supply unit has become defective and maybe that has blown.  

Rule out the simplest options first of it being the charger or battery. if theres no joy take it down to a local computer engineer and get them to have a look. be prepared to spend a little dosh on it.



btw what r your laptop specs?? might help us.:D how did you verify "no spark"?

if you do not have spark, you'll have to perform troubleshooting of your ignition system. 

you have a distributor, an ignitor, a coil a cap and rotor and a camshaft position sensor. if there is indeed no spark, these components will all need to be inspected. it's very common for the tps to fail. their cheap and easy to fix.

mine went bad when my jeep was only 2 years old. i got a replacement one for around $40. hey firewizard,

actualy as i suspected. even when i filter the sended setpoint of the temperature in nodered so it only pass 'on change', it keeps comming in to the plc's function block. so i used the same function as the rbe node in node red, just before the function block in the plc's program t…