how do you replace windows in a double stud wall house?
we have a 1982 double wall envelope house. i would like to expand  and replace the windows on the north side of the home. is there anything special that should be considered to expand the size of the windows by the builder? if we install triple pane windows, do i still need to install  double windows for each opening to retain the envelope? i am looking for a builder in se wi who is familiar with these homes.
there is a lot to consider when you want to install a bigger window, because you will need to lengthen the header. if you’re unfamiliar with the term, it is the support beam across the tops of windows and doors that supports the load and protects doors and windows from being damaged by pressure from above. think of it a bit like a bridge that transfers the weight to either side of the window opening. and worth noting - replacing windows just to 'save money' or energy doesn't always make financial sense, read more here - 
when to replace windows and when to repair them
in order to be able to carry the load and transfer it to the support members on either side, it needs to be sized correctly for the span to ensure it doesn’t sag. for example, you may currently have a  2x6 header (which would be either doubled or perhaps tripled) that might need to be replaced with a 2x8 header, depending on how much greater the span will be. so there is a bit of engineering that may need to be done depending on just how much you are increasing the span, and that would depend largely on your local snow load.
as you can see from the diagram below, the header (#2 and triple in this case) is resting on what is called the jack post, which is secured to the king post. to enlarge the opening, you will need to remove enough wall section to replace those studs along with the header. note - this image includes a double bottom plate (#4), which is rather unsual and probably not necessary.

image courtesy of wikimedia

 
if it is a double-walled building envelope, make sure that you know which of the walls is the supporting wall, but you should see that by the location of the existing header. sometimes a double wall system will have a 2x6 supporting wall with an additional 2x4 interior wall simply for the purpose of adding additional insulation. below is a photo of a double wall system that may or may not look like yours, but in this example you can see that the exterior wall carries the load and holds the window, the interior wall is not load bearing, it is for insulation, and wiring is done in this wall as well so as not to compromise the air barrier. 

double wall construction ©  ecohome
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about the windows, i’m not sure i understand your question about the double and triple pane. if it were me replacing windows, i would certainly purchase triple-pane for efficiency as well as comfort, but you do not need more than one window per opening if that is your question. just get really good ones. windows will always be the weakest point in a building envelope, that’s just part of life, and good reason to buy higher quality.
and lastly, i’m not familiar with where se wi is off the top of my head, but google is telling that’s wisconsin, is that right? if so, we don’t know builders in that region, sorry. 
here are some pages that may also be of use to you, good luck with your renos!
I am assuming that you have a 4 door sedan. If you want to remove the front door panel, it is held on with 4 or 5 torx screws, Under the armrest you will see 2 plastic cap covers. Gently pry the covers loose and the screws are inside. T20 I think. Where the inside release handle is you probably have a decorative strip(wood grain or painted plastic). At the end farthest from the handle, use a plastic wedge, or flat popsicle stick to pry the corner loose and gently pull the strip toward you. There will be 2 more screws under it. If your door has a plastic airbag emblem there is a screw under it. Otherwise there should be 1 screw hiding under the mirror switc on the armrest, or mirror switch cover. Using a small flat edge wedge pry between the panel and body at bottem until the panel pops loose.work your way around the entire panel. The top panel near the glass pulls toward you. Once the entire panel is loose, grabbing the armrest,pull the panel straight upwards. Be careful when pulling up as to not pull too far. Your inner release cable is attached on the backside. When reinstalling the panel make sure that the rubber grommets are on the panel clips..they help keep water out. "yikes! that is a big difference!

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the average homeowner pays about **$1,200 a year**, so you're right in thinking that you're paying a lot. in the future, you can safeguard your house against leaks or choose to pay for them out-of-pocket rather than adding to your claims history." 

**more**: [11 car insurance hacks to save you money](https://getjerry.com/car-insurance/car-insurance-hacks) I am myself a structural engineer, there's no reason you can't use timber. From what I understand of what you're saying, its the beam that trims the stairs and the wall is built off of it going up to your loft. If the wall you mention is stud, not solid brick or block, timber could well be man enough for the job - but I'd expect to see a large timber beam, or 2 or 3 joists joined together to form a wide beam. If you're in doubt ask a local structural engineer to make an assessment and size a new steel if required. You will be looking at around £250 - £350 for their services (estimated by your description). this could be tricky. i would build the wall as you go. remember to place a perforated drainage pipe behind the wall, at the bottom, and some 2b stone to accommodate water removal away from the wall. pitch the wall back a little every course, and if you are using 4 by 4's or 6 by 6's, remember to place a 4 by 4 every so often from the wall (attached to the wall) back into the soil. these beams will help the wall from moving forward due to the weight and pressure of the soil.
you can find good examples on the internet.
good luck! Dear visitor,  
Unfortunately, the statement of your question is a bit confusing.   
What do you need to be done? Please, give us the details so we could help you. you should have three choices.

 thanks for the update...i'll check it out. Hi my name is Keith from kl window doctor. All upvc should have a drainage holes face drained or concealed underneath and sometimes they get blocked which means you have to take each unit out and pour water out of a small jug into the drain holes at the bottom and you should see the water come out underneath Kir,

If combining the on board Intel® HD Graphics with a external PCI/PCIe video card, Windows will allow using the two graphics controllers at the same time, but the only dual display mode available is "Extended desktop". If you are looking for other dual display options like "Clone display" then it will be necessary to connect the two monitors into one of the graphics solutions, the on board or the video card so Windows will give you the dual display modes available depending on the graphics adapter.

In order to accomplish this, the most important thing is to change some settings on the BIOS. Please go to the configuration tab>video>integrated graphics device> set to "always enable"

 

Regards.

 




[View solution in original post](/t5/Intel-Desktop-Boards/Using-onboard-graphics-together-with-a-separate-graphics-card/m-p/433770#M41399) *any examples are for illustrative purposes only.*  
  
smoke barriers are used to subdivide building spaces into smoke compartments.  they restrict the passage of smoke and therefore through-penetrations must be sealed with a material capable of restricting the transfer of smoke.  
  
smoke barrier walls in existing health care and ambulatory health care occupancies are required to have a ½-hour fire rating.  in new health care and ambulatory health care occupancies, smoke barrier walls are required to have a 1-hour fire rating.  when sealing penetrations in these walls, a material that is ul listed for the appropriate fire rating must be used.
* facilities are classified as “existing” if final plans for construction, additions, renovations, or changes in occupancy were approved by the local authority having jurisdiction before july 5, 2016.


where ductwork penetrates a smoke barrier wall, a smoke damper is not required to if the hvac system is fully ducted. air transfer openings (non-ducted) shall have a smoke damper installed.  
  
reference ls.02.01.30 ep19 Unless the walls are perfectly flat around the switches (most walls aren't) and the metal back boxes are deep enough to accommodate the switch properly, they will never be a good fit and will sit awkwardly with one or more edges sitting slightly proud.

When you see these low profile flat plate switches in the shops they are always mounted on nice flat pieces of wood or plastic so look great. Once fitted in the home, the reality is somewhat different!