car misfiring.running on 3 cylinders.plugs,ignition leads,distributor cap &rotor
the components listed above have been replaced....
try doing a compression test
general procedure: make sure the engine is cool. loosen hose clamp where lower radiator hose attaches to engine - pull forward. place clean pan under hose to catch coolant that might spill out. pull hose off. catch coolant in pan. remove bolts on the fitting that the hose was attached to. remove gasket. remove thermostat (note how it was positioned and which side was facing out before removing -- there may be an alignment notch). install the new thermostat (the way the original was sitting,with the little "barbell" at 12:00) and gasket. re-attach hose fitting w/bolts. re-attach hose and clamp. put coolant that spilled out back in radiator. start engine and allow to warm up and check for leaks. note - if you need to remove your alternator so as to access the nuts holding the thermostat cover remember to disconnect battery before removing the alternator leads to prevent shorting. good post on parts location and repair procedure. only thing i'd like to add is antifreeze has a limited life before it loses it's ph balance and will turn acidic or base, either one will cause corrosion in the cooling system. loss of additives can also cause the cooling system to start acting as a ground conductor which will damage the cooling system. there are many different ideas on when to change, i try to change mine every 3 years or 24k miles. if you want there are test strips to check ph balance, protection temp and phosphate levels (prevent oxygen molecules from collecting around cylinder liners and etching them - usually more problematic on diesels). hth, dave A ignition is in two parts, where you put the key to turn it and a second part that is the ignition itself. Between the two parts there is a small flat pin or bar. This is where your problem is, the pin/bar is broken. You will have to replace the ignition to solve the problem. hard to describe this, but remove the knee bolster and remove the upper mounting screws and remove shifter indactor and the steering column 4 nuts and lower down to get the upper bezel out, sometimes it is hard to pull out, then remove the 4 screws and pull the speed head out and unhook the rear wiring harness In the middle of the TT youll Find a C-Clip It needs to be Removed before the Platter can be removed,You either have a Broken Belt,Or the Grease in the Guide is Old and must be Cleaned out and Relubed last update: 
the ps4 is now working properly! 
the problems were a shorted capacitor on the backside of the board leading to the power management ic, as well as the control pin for the power supply 5v connector not being soldered on properly. i found flux residue around that connector and checked i… the grease that is their may be thick. get your hair dryer out and warm the total parts that rises and falls when you move your lever.  

continue to move the lever while you're heating the parts. you should notice a big change. try to clean off any old grease. after you do this use some good synthetic oil on the moving parts. hi everyone, just to close this topic, i could get a proper power supply and in fact it was the problem..

thaks everyone for your time and help ! the fuel filter should be located just below to the right of the air filter box. this is in the right side of the engine compartment. to change the fuel filter you must remove the air filter box. the top fitting is a banjo fitting and the bottom fitting is a standard screw in flared fitting. thanks for the support! <3 you guys are really great, so many offers of help these last few days!

unfortunately we aren’t quite there yet. :frowning: this issue is a root problem with the trifecta of the processor, engine and windows. we have fixed the issue with the game freezing during the cabin… problem is a bad capacitor on the power board. caution if repairing yourself as capacitors in tv's hold a charge long after set is powered off and can be lethal. 
  
 when looking at your power board for a bad cap look at the top of the capacitors. a bad cap will have a noticable "bulging" on the top of it compared to others. be sure to note polarity of capacitor (will have a "-" on one side indicating negative. to fix on/off issue simply unsoldered bad capacitor and solder in a new one with same voltage and capacitance rating being sure the new capacitor is oriented the same as the old one was before it was removed.