wooden bars override block on placement
got a bug, wooden bars overwrite a block if the block isn’t solid, ie chests, sensors. just lost a chest and a tachometer sensor by placing wooden bars in the same space. tested with brass pipe, overwrites that too.

edit-

just to let you know i’m using yesterday’s snapshot.
and that one is fixed now. ^^
Unless the walls are perfectly flat around the switches (most walls aren't) and the metal back boxes are deep enough to accommodate the switch properly, they will never be a good fit and will sit awkwardly with one or more edges sitting slightly proud.

When you see these low profile flat plate switches in the shops they are always mounted on nice flat pieces of wood or plastic so look great. Once fitted in the home, the reality is somewhat different! the block has been already removed. hi [@tino52](/u/tino52)

[image] scruffr:

however, there might be other factors that don’t show easily - e.g. radio noise like other wifi or bluetooth devices, badly filtered appliances, quality of your power supply, external circuitry, …

i agree with this, it could be any of a number of things. you are c… there is a lot to consider when you want to install a bigger window, because you will need to lengthen the header. if you’re unfamiliar with the term, it is the support beam across the tops of windows and doors that supports the load and protects doors and windows from being damaged by pressure from above. think of it a bit like a bridge that transfers the weight to either side of the window opening. and worth noting - replacing windows just to 'save money' or energy doesn't always make financial sense, read more here - 
when to replace windows and when to repair them
in order to be able to carry the load and transfer it to the support members on either side, it needs to be sized correctly for the span to ensure it doesn’t sag. for example, you may currently have a  2x6 header (which would be either doubled or perhaps tripled) that might need to be replaced with a 2x8 header, depending on how much greater the span will be. so there is a bit of engineering that may need to be done depending on just how much you are increasing the span, and that would depend largely on your local snow load.
as you can see from the diagram below, the header (#2 and triple in this case) is resting on what is called the jack post, which is secured to the king post. to enlarge the opening, you will need to remove enough wall section to replace those studs along with the header. note - this image includes a double bottom plate (#4), which is rather unsual and probably not necessary.

image courtesy of wikimedia

 
if it is a double-walled building envelope, make sure that you know which of the walls is the supporting wall, but you should see that by the location of the existing header. sometimes a double wall system will have a 2x6 supporting wall with an additional 2x4 interior wall simply for the purpose of adding additional insulation. below is a photo of a double wall system that may or may not look like yours, but in this example you can see that the exterior wall carries the load and holds the window, the interior wall is not load bearing, it is for insulation, and wiring is done in this wall as well so as not to compromise the air barrier. 

double wall construction ©  ecohome
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about the windows, i’m not sure i understand your question about the double and triple pane. if it were me replacing windows, i would certainly purchase triple-pane for efficiency as well as comfort, but you do not need more than one window per opening if that is your question. just get really good ones. windows will always be the weakest point in a building envelope, that’s just part of life, and good reason to buy higher quality.
and lastly, i’m not familiar with where se wi is off the top of my head, but google is telling that’s wisconsin, is that right? if so, we don’t know builders in that region, sorry. 
here are some pages that may also be of use to you, good luck with your renos! think about what the difference is between turning the bike up side spinning the wheels and the wheels spinning while riding the bike? it's simple when riding the bike it's bearing weight. it's very possible you could have hub issues.

do as old hippie suggested take the bike to a reputable bicycle shop. have added psu to above post. (i added specs because i knew someone would ask. however i think it's a software issue.)

unlikely that it's the psu.

the current psu is a hx750i, and the previous psu was a hx650i. swapped over a year ago at least. this is a recent issue.


good, a lot of times this is the psu. but with an excellent unit, that's far less likely.

were you monitoring temperatures at the time? was there something specific you were doing similar in both times? really intermittent things can be hard to nail down. take this to a professional that can properly diagnose this problem, this approach you're taking is going to cause more problems and cost much more than if the problem was diagnosed prior to replacing parts.
http://repairpal.com/buick-repair-in-new-castle-delaware the clutch might be smelly, but is it slipping or doing anything else untoward. clutches are a regularly reported problem on one-tonne utes, which suggests most are borderline in capacity. if there is a problem with the functioning of the clutch, approach mazda again about replacing it. if there isn't a problem think about replacing the clutch with a heavy-duty one that's more capable of handling your towing needs. A ignition is in two parts, where you put the key to turn it and a second part that is the ignition itself. Between the two parts there is a small flat pin or bar. This is where your problem is, the pin/bar is broken. You will have to replace the ignition to solve the problem. this problem could be related to shunt slippage or failure, or could be a separate issue entirely. see your implanting surgeon for an eval as soon as practical. see more...