mazda bt-50 2007: smelly clutch
my 2007 mazda bt-50 ute had a very smelly clutch problem after reversing a 16-foot caravan. mazda denied a problem, but changed the clutch on a friend's bt-50 with the same problem. i received no reply when i tried to communicate with them. what can i do?
the clutch might be smelly, but is it slipping or doing anything else untoward. clutches are a regularly reported problem on one-tonne utes, which suggests most are borderline in capacity. if there is a problem with the functioning of the clutch, approach mazda again about replacing it. if there isn't a problem think about replacing the clutch with a heavy-duty one that's more capable of handling your towing needs.
there are so many things that can cause rough idle, can you give more information? did the car recently overheat? is there any fluids leaking on the engine? are you getting any smoke or steam from the exhaust? when checking for steam, remember to wait until the engine has run for awhile as condensation can build up in your exhaust during the night. if you cannot tell if it is smoke or steam, hold a blank sheet of paper behind the tail pipe, if it is oil smoke, then oil dots will show up on the paper.

some things you can do and check;
check the spark plug wires, make sure they are tightly connected and not chaffed, broken or burnt.
check your pcv valve for excessive oil or clogging, (it will be in a rubber housing or hose leading from your valve cover to your throttle body/carburetor)
i don't know the engine setup in that model, but if you have a distributor cap, check it for cracks and wear, also check the rotary cap.
check all rubber vacuum hoses on the engine for cracking.
if you can afford it, change the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor and rotary cap, these parts all need to be changed over time and your car is getting older now. > Hello,
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http://repairpal.com/buick-repair-in-new-castle-delaware i don't think you're going to be able to fix it. can you drive the car? have it towed to a shop and get some help--you have a serious problem or several problems. brother, you better get a manual. i think they teach a course in this at the local community college. seriously, i can't responsibly explain the procedure to you in a venue like this.
try this link: 
http://bit.ly/mitchell\_repair\_manuals\_online tenspeed
Try the 10-11 Mazda3, 09-11 Subaru Impreza, 07-09 VW Rabbit, 07-08Hyundai 
Sonata V6, 07 Mazda6,04-06 Nisson Altima, 05-06 Acura RSX, 05 Mustang V8, 05 
Subaru Impreza WRX/STi here is the ftc (federal trade commission's) complaint form-
http://www.ftc.gov/ftc/cmplanding.shtm

also, the dept. of transportation

use this
https://www.cpsc.gov/cgibin/incident.aspx
online vehicle owner's questionnaire to report safety or operational defects to the national highway transportation safety administration.

you can also call the dot auto safety hotline at 1-888-dash-2-dot (1-888-327-4236) or 1-800-424-9393 and a nhtsa representative will record your report.

search for existing defect reports
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/

and consider the better business bureau-
http://complaints.bbb.org/

and the center for auto safety
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?did=539&scid=98
has some great information. ford does have the following options available-

contact ford: call ford's customer assistance center at 800-392-3673 to register a complaint. if they cannot resolve your complaint, ask for an arbitration package for the dispute settlement board (see below).

dispute settlement board: this is ford's arbitration program for reimbursement of repairs or buyback of a lemon. if you get a bad decision, you can reject it and take ford to court. if you accept it, ford must abide. both the consumer and ford submit comments and records to the board by mail. in most cases, the board will not hear a complaint outside the express warranty - the length of which varies for the powertrain, emissions & other components. important: the consumer is allowed to rebutt ford's comments. this can improve your chances and you should take advantage. if you have not received a dispute settlement board arbitration package from ford customer assistance center, write to dispute settlement board, po box 5120, southfield mi 48086-5120.

good luck to you! The reset button is located behing a panel on the front of the unit that is labeled Heat Reset. If that label is gone then look around, it is a small hole, small enough for a paper clip to fit through.   

 That being said, I have 137 of these units in one of my hotels and have not had a single one needing to be reset. You probably are going to need a new control board kit. These can be purchased from Amana. They are $130. Make sure that you have pulled the heater coil out and inspected it first. Also, there was a recall years ago where Amana was supposed to contact and send out new voltage switches. These are the round black things that the Brown heater wires connect to on the upper and lower side of the heating coil. You should also try to replace those if you find the coil in good condition. I have had those resolve heating issues. Most of the heating issues were a result of a bad relay on the control board though.   

 Please remember to rate this fix. the composite (plastic) intake manifold may crack near the thermostat housing and other places and cause a coolant leak. ford released an updated manifold that was reinforced to prevent a recurrence. no recall was issued for this problem but ford did extend the warranty to seven years on some models from the date of purchase.. to replace the transmission vacuum modulator, you need to jack up the front passengers side of the car and support it on a jack stand. before starting, apply the park brake fully.you will need a rag, an ice cream pail and a 1/4 inch drive rachet, with universal and 12 inches of extensions and a 10 mm socket to remove the modulator hold down clamp bolt which is slightly above the modulator valve. remove the vacuum hose, remove the 10 mm bolt,catch the clamp, place drain pan(ice cream pail) under the modulator to catch tranny fluid if it drips. wiggle the old leaking unit out of the bore and remove the small diameter shaft from the old unit.insert the shaft into the new unit and carefully guide the new unit into the bore, wiggling it in all the way. grab the hold down clamp in your hand, and place it in its position to hold down the modulator, this clamp goes one way and rests on the flange of the modulator to hold it in firmly. install and tighten the bolt to approximately 15 foot pounds of torque, install the vacuum hose after blowing it out from the top, remove it from the vacuum tree by the brake booster(drivers side)and blow all the tranny fluid out, and if the hose is rubbery from being saturated in fluid, replace the top part which is about a foot long. road test the vehicle, and if you have an adjustable unit, adjust the shift points to where you would like them by turning the allen screw clockwise or counterclockwise. good luck.and don't forget to check the tranny fluid level!