<p>I've already asked which wires I should use, and I believe I have that covered now, but I was also wondering what solder / specs on the solder are considered safe when attaching my wires to my heat bed.  I have some solder here at the house, it's quite new (never been opened) it's Radio Shack <code>64-008 E</code> 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core with 0.062 diameter...</p>

[{'answer_id': 3082, 'author': 'user802599', 'author_id': 1476, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1476', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>That solder sounds like it should be fine.</p>\n\n<p>Any solder should work, the only difference you might find is some of the older solder will include lead. if you were overly concerned about safety you might want to check your solder doesn't contain lead. However, for the amount you are doing, even a solder that contains lead isn't going to be an issue.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 3086, 'author': 'Sean Houlihane', 'author_id': 4927, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Old-style lead/tin solder has a melting range of about 180 to 250 degrees (the transition solid to liquid is spread out). This ought to be fine for the bed (even at the hottest hotspot) but wouldn't be good <em>in</em> the hotend.</p>\n\n<p>Modern electronics lead-free solder varies since there are several different compositions, but is typically a bit higher in melting point (by some 10s of degrees).</p>\n\n<p>Special high melting point solder transitions around 300C, but you would only need to use this in very specific scenarios.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3081', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37/']