<p>In the E3D Kraken cooler block, there is a big, 10&nbsp;mm grub screw, along the side of the cooler block.</p>

<p>I watched the entire Kraken assembly video:</p>

<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/wEw4UDUUbIE?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>

<p>There was no mention of this very thick grub screw. The <a href="https://wiki.e3d-online.com/Kraken_Assembly" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D Kraken assembly wiki page</a> may refer to this part as the "stainless plug".</p>

<p>Does the depth of the screw inside the Kraken heatbreak affect the effectiveness of the water cooling?</p>

<p>Why was it included in the design at all?</p>

<p>I'm asking because water frequently leaks out of this pore for me, ever since I had to repair some damaged tubing. Additionally I often have to use an extra fan when printing at high temperatures. I'm wondering, before I epoxy this grub screw into place, whether the amount it is tightened into the Kraken has some advantages or disadvantages.</p>

<p>The video shows the part already assembled on the Kraken. This is what the part looks like - it is much larger than the screws used to secure heat throats. <img src="https://static.e3d-online.com/media/catalog/product/cache/b3b166914d87ce343d4dc5ec5117b502/p/l/plugs_10.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></p>

[{'answer_id': 11365, 'author': '0scar', 'author_id': 5740, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>The problem with low layer heights is that the filament flow is low, this means that the filament is at prolonged times at temperature, filament cooking can cause clogging. Try increasing the layer height to 0.2&nbsp;mm to observe if the same clogging problems still occur, furthermore, try lowering the extrusion temperature.</p>\n\n<p>Also, heat creep is a known issue (insufficient cooling of the cold end) to cause clogging. Note that this is unlikely on the Prusa MK3S, but you could check whether the fan rotates freely and that there are no additional obstructions in the flow path. </p>\n\n<p>It could be that a combination of too much hotend temperature and a low filament flow is causing this issue.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 11409, 'author': 'SomeNorwegianGuy', 'author_id': 19133, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19133', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': "<p>My problem was 2 things. The <strong>heatbreak</strong>, which was switched out for the MK2 version(Explantation below). And the <strong>Teflon Tube</strong> that runs down the heatsink.</p>\n\n<h2>Heatbreak</h2>\n\n<p>Change the heat-break to a generic E3D one. You can order the heatbreak for the <strong>MK2</strong> from prusa, or any generic heat break for the E3D hot-end assembly.</p>\n\n<p>On the Prusa i3 MK3(s), this component has been given a 45° taper in the middle, between 2.2 and 2&nbsp;mm. This is done to ease filament retraction for the MMU, and will be nothing but problematic if you are not using the multi-material upgrade. Especially with higher nozzle pressures(eq. with lower layer lines), the filament may be squeezed into this taper, clogging the hot-end.</p>\n\n<p>You may not experience full clogs, but partial ones that will show themselves as streaks in certain layers on the print.</p>\n\n<h2>Heatsink Teflon Tube</h2>\n\n<p>There is a teflon tube that runs down the heatsink. It's crucial that this is mounted correctly and it is not entirely intuative how.</p>\n\n<p>First, press the teflon tube into the heatsink all the way to the bottom. Then, try to pull it out slightly. You'll notice that the small plastic ring at the top of the heatsink will pull out slightly along with it. Now, hold this black plastic part at it's current position with your fingernail, and push the teflon tube in the extra amount. When done, there should be no play in the tube.</p>\n"}]
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