<p>I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seems relevant.</p>

<p>I am an absolute noob at 3D printing, but recently my need for a specific, small part intersected with access to a 3D printer at work (Zortrax M200), so I figured now was a good opportunity to get into printing.</p>

<p>I am designing a clamp for smaller can capacitors that will hold them upright from a mounting surface.  I would like the capacitors to snap into the clamp, but I am struggling to find information on how wide the opening to the clamp should be.  It clearly needs to be smaller than the diameter of the clamp, but I'm not sure how much smaller it can be without snapping the clamp arms.</p>

<p>Is there a rule of thumb or general guideline for this type of geometry?  I am using Z-ULTRAT, which is some proprietary filament made by Zortrax.  It seems to be similar to ABS in terms of strength properties, but stiffer.</p>

<p>I don't have an image at the moment, but I can provide one tomorrow when I have access to the part files.  The best analog I can think of is a LEGO figure's hands.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>Edit: Per requests for additional information:</p>

<ul>
<li><p>I am not sure what is considered a "thin" wall; currently, the clamp walls are 2mm thick at the thinnest point (where the push-in opening is).</p></li>
<li><p>I would like the walls to be just flexible enough to allow the cap to be seated without breaking - it is more critical that the cap is not loose in the socket.</p></li>
<li><p>The clamp is not going to be subject to repeated stress cycles - by the time the cap needs replacing, it's likely I'll need to print a new clamp as well.</p></li>
<li><p>With my estimations for cooling, I do not expect the clamp to see temperatures above 100C.</p></li>
</ul>

<p>Edit 2:</p>

<p>Based on the link in the comments below, I came up with the following design:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vJ0A.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6vJ0A.png" alt="Clamp"></a></p>

<p>The little nubbins in the back fit into the "neck" at the bottom of the capacitor to provide some positive lock.  220 degrees of surround with 4mm thick arms - I think this should work.</p>

[{'answer_id': 3878, 'author': 'A Bailey', 'author_id': 6547, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6547', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>My first step would be to cut the filament at a bit of an angle.  This will help the filament enter the extruder correctly.  </p>\n\n<p>If you\'re still having trouble, you may have a clogged nozzle.  This article by Lifewire -<a href="https://www.lifewire.com/3d-printer-extruder-nozzle-clogged-2289" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printer Extruder Nozzle Clogged? Here Is How To Unclog It</a> has some good info.</p>\n\n<p>I\'ve also heard stories about the Bowden Tube (the PTFE tube that guides the filament from the extruder to the hotend) becoming warped or melted in cases where the printer\'s temperature control went awry.  This is rare as PTFE doesn\'t melt until 320°C.  </p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 3881, 'author': 'John Perry', 'author_id': 6816, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6816', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Many printers have a problem with inserting filament into the extruder. Cutting it at an angle is a huge help. It is also very possible that you have a cog or a bad extruder nozzle. </p>\n\n<p>This link could be of some help: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/prusa-i3/topic:7469" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Extruder is not feeding</a>.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 6036, 'author': 'Nicholas Forystek', 'author_id': 10905, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10905', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I think my PTFE shaft is in reverse when it was assembled and sent out. One side is the metal shaft only the other side the PTFE inner shaft.  I read about filament shavings from poor feeding, so it wouldn't make sense initial feeder takes on hard metal where it might shave it and obstruct ease, also the nozzle and the filament must need well heat so it doesn't make sense the PTFE is screwed in nearest the nozzle, rather the metal should conduct against it.  Thus also the thermal reading would be off from it not applied to the actual filament just around it.  In bike breaks it's to prevent the scraping of the metal chord against the metal housing upon where it exists the housing.  One of the video's suggested using twisty ties for the belt as well, with four extra pieces same as two which are used on the track at the bed, a non one time use disposable clamp can be made with extra screws, for each instead of the twisty ties, so it stands to reason likely however it maybe the sales/distribution form manufacture has poor communication or not at all instructions is how these discrepancies arrive.  IN MY OPINION.  Reverse the shaft from extrude to the nozzle if you don't see Teflon at the extrude part, I have not tested it myself yet, but I'm going to.  My unit as well seems poor ability to print at all. </p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3884', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6822/']