<p>I'm using <code>M80</code> and <code>M81</code> G-codes to power on/off power supply. </p>

<p>Is there a G-code to know the actual state of the power supply?</p>

[{'answer_id': 4019, 'author': 'electrophile', 'author_id': 5113, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5113', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I don't have this specific printer but this used to happen to me as well on my D-Bot. The reason being bed not being leveled properly. Ensure that your bed is leveled such that the distance between the nozzle and bed is about 0.2mm after homing. Also coat your bed with something sticky like glue or hairspray. You won't need this if you are using a PEI sheet. </p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 4021, 'author': 'Greenonline', 'author_id': 4762, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Check the following:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Is the print bed clean? On glass, you can use a few squirts of window cleaner.</li>\n<li>Is the print bed actually reaching the correct temperature? </li>\n<li>Have you manually calibrated the printer (at both the center and the edges), such that you can just about get a sheet of paper between the print bed and the hotend nozzle, at z = 0? This last check ensures that the first printed layer of extruded filament is actually touching and "presses on" to the print bed. See the video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuEhQU8vGZk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">#18:Calibration</a> for a great explanation on the use of the paper. Whilst this video is for a Delta printer, it clearly demonstrates the height that the zeroed print head should be at, and how to check using a sheet paper.</li>\n<li>Maybe the filament, for the first few layers, should be heated at a high temperature, than the rest of the print, to ensure adhesion.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>If all of the above are checked and OK, then (as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5113/electrophile">electrophile</a> points out in <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4018/filament-lifts-from-the-hot-bed-while-printing#answer-4019">their answer</a>) try making the print head more grippy. This can be achieved by simply adding a <em>thin coating</em> to the glass with one of the following:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Wiping the glass with a glue stick or wood glue</li>\n<li>Using hairspray</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Both use PVA as an adhesive/stiffener.</p>\n\n<p>Or by adding an additional <em>print surface</em>, such as:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Using blue painters tape</li>\n<li>Using PEI tape</li>\n<li>Using Kapton tape</li>\n<li>Using <a href="https://www.buildtak.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BuildTak</a></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>If adding tape, then the printer may require a small re-calibration, due to the thickness of the tape adding a few microns to the print bed height. This can be done in the firmware.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4041, 'author': 'Peter', 'author_id': 7045, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7045', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I've cleaned the heated bed as suggested using ethanol, \nthen I've tested the Z distance of the nozzle from the bed with a paper sheet and it was ok. Lastly, I tried to raise the temperature of the extruder for the first layer to 215°C. I think that this did the trick.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 4056, 'author': 'Brad', 'author_id': 7104, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7104', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>With PLA I normally run the bed at 70 and the extruder at 190. Make sure the bed gets to temperature before you start and use gluestick on the bed. </p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4061, 'author': 'Kallz', 'author_id': 6760, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6760', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>material sticking problem can be due to following reason:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>bed level</li>\n<li>bed temperature</li>\n<li>z motion calibration (ex if not calibrated layer height is 0.2 and z move 0.4 then material cant stick on bed)</li>\n<li>bed surface (for sticking first layer on bed what you use)</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>remove all above reason step by step </p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>first confirm bed level</li>\n<li>bed temperature according to material (pla - 70 , abs - 100 )</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>all above option are good but warpping chance are higher\nfor last bed surface you have following option to use  </p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><p>use paper tape </p></li>\n<li><p>use Kapton tape</p></li>\n<li><p>glue stick</p></li>\n<li><p>use paste  (accetone + abs) abs melt into accetone and it become like cream and you can apply on bed after bed heating </p></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>if you are using last option then just confirm bed level again before start print</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4022', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7051/']