<p>I have a Chiron from Anycubic and I have had some leveling issues in the last few weeks, however, I believe that I have sorted that. The layers attached to the base plate or the raft now come out very weird and I am uncertain why. I heard that this is caused by the extruder being too cold but I have turned up the temperature and nothing has changed. Could someone please help with this because I have a feeling this is the reason the prints are being warped slightly but enough to not fit together?</p>
<p>I am very new to all this and I have no one to help me with this, if you could help I would be very grateful.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfWri.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="3D printed model with badly extruded layer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfWri.jpg" alt="3D printed model with badly extruded layer" title="3D printed model with badly extruded layer" /></a></p>
<p>My bed temperature is set to 70 °C and the speed is 50 mm/s. I manually leveled it afer the self leveling didn't work, the image shows the top layer of a very bad failed print that had the same settings as my other ones but this one specifically was worse. I use PLA and have the extruder set to a temp of 210 °C most of the time. I now have the base set to 80 °C due to when its lower, adhesion doesn't take place for some reason. There are no large overhangs on my models but it can comfortably do a 70ish degree angle with no major flaw. The extruder height is set to 2 mm due to some massive leveling issues I had before.</p>

[{'answer_id': 18400, 'author': 'Sami Onur Zaim', 'author_id': 27788, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/27788', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>What software do you use? Your nozzle diameter seems to be selected incorrectly or you have a slightly enlarged nozzle. Buy an unused nozzle and make your bed adjustments again.</p>\n<p>Select correct a nozzle diameter (such as 0.4\xa0mm, 0.6\xa0mm) and slice your print again. For PLA, I suggest using 200-215\xa0°C for better layer adhesion and using the fan to make prints look better.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 18422, 'author': 'BRIAN Wilkins', 'author_id': 32049, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32049', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>That is an over extrusion and temp related issue, based on your picture. But to answer your question, make your layer height less and slow down your speed in the first 10 layers.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 19279, 'author': 'R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE', 'author_id': 11157, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Not sure what the other answers are talking about. From the picture, your nozzle is just way too far from the bed and the extruded material is just barely making contact. Adjust it so that, when moved to position Z=0.2, there is exactly 0.2 mm between the nozzle tip and the bed. Then fine-tune with single-layer test prints.</p>\n<p>Having the nozzle way too far from the bed is probably why you've found a need to jack your bed temperature up so high. Don't do that! 80\xa0°C bed is not usable at all for PLA; it will keep the first 5-10 mm of the print above its glass transition temperature permanently (for the duration of the print), precluding any hope of it holding a proper shape. 60\xa0°C is the absolute max you should ever use for PLA, and even that's too high to avoid warping. If your nozzle distance is right and you're using a textured (e.g. Buildtak or generic clone) build surface, PLA should adhere to a <em>cold</em> bed (not heated at all). Without that you probably need 45-55\xa0°C.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18380', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31980/']