<p>A while ago bought a Bowden extruder to replace the old built-in one (It was malfunctioning or something that I cannot remember well). This one in particular has been acquired:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF28s.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LF28s.jpg" alt="The extruder set"></a></p>

<p>The thing is, that almost a year has passed since the printer did something rather than getting jammed and not work properly. The extruder itself seems to work properly, when I heats up and push the filament by hand seems to pass properly.</p>

<p>When assembled and start to print, the printer at first seems to work, but after a minute or so, it stops extruding (gets jammed or something).</p>

<p>The last time that I removed the filament and I've found out that it was coiled inside (Very strange):</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBjnr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wBjnr.jpg" alt="Coiled ugly deformed filament"></a></p>

<p>My first thought was that the filament was thinner than the extruder's specs, but the seller says that is for 1.75mm, and all my filaments have that diameter.</p>

<p>What I am missing? Something maybe that is not properly mounted?</p>

<p>The product is not official, bought on Amazon (I didn't know about e3d v6).</p>

<p>Printing temperature should be 180ºC but I've seen now that Cura sets the first layers to print at 200ºC. Material: PLA</p>

<p>My printer is a <a href="https://www.bq.com/en/support/prusa/support-sheet" rel="nofollow noreferrer">BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos</a>.</p>

[{'answer_id': 7601, 'author': 'Valmond', 'author_id': 8328, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8328', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>As long as there is no more information about the printer itself (I searched a bit and around half of buyers were severely unhappy with the result), I\'d advise you to make a full check of all of the important parts that make up a 3D printer making ok prints:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Are motors moving as they should?</li>\n<li>Is the extruder actually extrude filament when told so (do the check "2cm" = 2cm extruded)?</li>\n<li>Is the Z calibration ok (&lt;- VERY important, will make tons of weird problems if extruder is too close to the bed, believe me, don\'t skip out on this one. A blue tape or not a blue tape makes a world of difference).</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Also of course check your filament (no variations too big of the diameter).</p>\n\n<p>For the temperature, IMO go for the higher for starters (maybe no, see "heat creep" below), you won\'t be able to bridge / less good quality etc. but you\'ll get pieces done.</p>\n\n<p>NOW, the image you posted shows a twisted (I don\'t know how to handle that) or a grinded filament.</p>\n\n<p>When I say \'grinded\' I mean that the filament got stuck somewhere (see below) and the (cogged) wheel pushing the filament is so strong that is grinds off plastic from it, forming waves on the filament. Eating away parts so it looks like your photo.</p>\n\n<p>If that\'s the case, then you should check out "heat creep", it\'s basically the heat in the lowest part of the extruder (the thing you call a bowden extruder) will heat up the filament and make it melt Above the heat block, making a blob of half melt plastic stopping the forward movement of the filament.\nThis is usually mitigated by two things, that lacks more or less in cheap chinese knock offs:\n* The fan and it\'s cooling efficiency (the fan must blow when the heat block is hot, even if there is no printing going on. Even if the heat block is no longer heating. I shut the fan off at around 60°C).\n* The Heat break: if it\'s heavy it will conduct too much heat, if it\'s thin it might work but will break easily.</p>\n\n<p>3D Printing is not obvious or easy, but spend some time and it\'ll start to work well!</p>\n\n<p>Cheers</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 12042, 'author': 'cmm', 'author_id': 2082, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>If you converted a printer from direct to Bowden feed, it is possible that the cold side of the hot end is too hot, and you are suffering from heat creap.  Simple, less expensive printers often use the extruder stepper and the extruder stepper mount as part of the cooling system.</p>\n\n<p>If there is any sort of a heat-sink on the cold side of the hot-end, try to rig a fan to blow through the heat sink.  If there isn't a heat sink, find one and add it.  Heat sinks made for round transistor cases can sometime be fitted to the cold side.  A little heat sink great, a couple of transistor heat sinks, and a fan may completely solve your problem.</p>\n"}]
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