<p>Sometimes my meshes turn out with artifacts Which can be seen in the bottom image. What is the cause? The first image shows my mesh which its generated from.
I've tried multiple slicers. This tends to occur sometimes.
Any help appreciated. Is there something going over my head???</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/neQxc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/neQxc.png" alt="mesh wireframe"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W19Y7.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W19Y7.png" alt="Artifacts in 3d model"></a></p>

[{'answer_id': 8398, 'author': 'Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2', 'author_id': 11242, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11242', 'pm_score': 4, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>Hardboard is called <em>Masonite</em> here in the States because that is the trade name of the product. If you look up the <a href="http://www.gunnersens.co.nz/images/stories/products/Masonite%20Standard/specs/Australian_Hardboards_Masonite_MSDS.pdf" rel="noreferrer">Material Safety Data Sheet</a> you will see Masonite it states the following (Section 5):</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n  <p>Auto-ignition Temperature (°C): >200 degrees Celsius</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>In Section 7, it states:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n  <p>These boards are flammable but difficult to ignite.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>Furthermore in Section 10, it states:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n  <p><strong>Conditions to avoid:</strong> Avoid sources of radiant heat and flame; and avoid sparks and sources of ignition in all electrical equipment, including dust extraction equipment.\n  Avoid excessive build up of dust from boards.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>The hot end works of printers are neither radiant heat, nor flames, nor sparks. Yes, you\'ll have a buildup of heat within the working confines of an enclosure, but if you are only using it for a base there should be absolutely no issues. If you were to build an entire enclosure from hardboard, you could put a thermal probe inside with the printer to ensure it doesn\'t get too hot, but realistically, it will never get hot enough within the enclosure to light the hardboard on fire.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 8400, 'author': 'Trish', 'author_id': 8884, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Masonite or hardboard is a high-density board without a resin. It is <a href="https://www.chromaluxe.com/wp-content/uploads/SDS-Hardboard-Universal-Woods.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> at around 200 to 275\xa0°C for its autoignition temperature. Just for comparison, let\'s look at similar products.</p>\n<p>Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is similar to hardboard but bonded with a resin, offering a smoother surface and is <a href="https://www.westfraser.com/sites/default/files/products/MDF/WP-GoldPlus%202013.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> at 200 to 275\xa0°C, so pretty close.</p>\n<p>The heavier High-density fiberboard variant is <a href="http://www.clarionindustries.com/assets/files/Clarion-msds-hdf.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> with about the same temperatures of about 200 to 275\xa0°C.</p>\n<p>Oriented Strand Board (OSB) is <a href="http://www.langboard.com/osb/data/osb_msds.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">listed</a> at 200 to 260\xa0°C.</p>\n<h2>Conclusion</h2>\n<p>All the materials have very similar autoignition temperatures, so none of them particularly shines over the other. Using a proper fire safety procedure is highly encouraged, even though the ambient temperature in the enclosure should not reach even close to the 200\xa0°C unless the printer has a freak accident and catches fire itself.</p>\n<ul>\n<li>A smoke detector is a must.</li>\n<li>Some kind of cooling method that keeps the inside at a temperature down is highly encouraged. A simple temperature activated fan might help in this.</li>\n<li>Lining the inside of the box with a thicker aluminium or copper tape can help to even out the temperature over the surfaces faster, preventing the formation of hotspots that might otherwise reach dangerous temperatures. <a href="https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/copper-tapes/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Copper tapes</a> are more expensive than <a href="https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/adhesives-sealants-tapes/tapes/aluminium-tapes/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Aluminium tapes</a> but have a better heat transfer coefficient.<sup>1</sup></li>\n<li>Including an automatic fire suppression system could be an option.</li>\n</ul>\n<p><sup>1 - The RS Catalogue was just chosen for ease of navigation. <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">McMaster Carr</a> does list special <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3591" rel="nofollow noreferrer">heat shielding tape</a> in both thin and aluminium as well as <a href="https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3587" rel="nofollow noreferrer">copper and aluminium foil</a> tapes. I am not affiliated to either.</sup></p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8406', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13482/']