<p>The Benchy looks good for the most part except for some boogers on the chimney</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fV2oD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of a printed Benchy with zits on the chimney"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fV2oD.jpg" alt="Photo of a printed benchy with zits on the chimney" title="Photo of a printed Benchy with zits on the chimney" /></a></p>
<p>And some stringing on the bow, near the front deck.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EimB6.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of the top of a printed Benchy with minor stringing problems"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EimB6.jpg" alt="Photo of the top of a printed benchy with minor stringing problems" title="Photo of the top of a printed Benchy with minor stringing problems" /></a></p>
<p>Here are my settings. On another roll of Inland PETG, I printed a Benchy at 30 mm/s and it came out perfect. Is there any way to improve my results at higher speeds? Maybe 4 or 5 for retraction and/or faster retraction speeds? I figure I ask before taking shots in the dark. I was told to not go below 235 °C for PETG so that seems like lowering the temperature is out of the question.</p>
<p>Any ideas? Below are my settings.</p>
<p>The printer is a Sovol Sv01 Pro (this is similar to an Ender 3 S1)</p>
<ul>
<li>direct drive extruder</li>
<li>Creality silent board</li>
<li>CR Touch</li>
<li>Marlin 2.0</li>
<li>hot end like and Ender 3 Pro with an MK8</li>
<li>PEI sheet</li>
<li>K value 2.0 - this was the factory setting</li>
</ul>
<p>All the parts are pretty new since I bought the printer on an Amazon Prime day about a month ago.</p>
<p>Settings (using Inland PETG - Yellow):</p>
<ul>
<li>a few days ago it had a 6hr session in a filament dryer</li>
<li>235 °C nozzle</li>
<li>70 °C bed</li>
<li>retraction 3.0 mm</li>
<li>print speed 40 mm/s</li>
<li>print acceleration 500 mm/s</li>
<li>jerk 12 mm/s</li>
</ul>

[{'answer_id': 19827, 'author': 'R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE', 'author_id': 11157, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>My first choice for this would be PET. Not PETG, which is a mess of blobbing, stringing, warping, creep under load, etc., but real PET, also known as BPET (bottle PET) or HTPET (high temperature PET, because it needs high temperatures to print and has high HDT)</p>\n<p>Unlike ASA, PC, and nylon, PET is easy to print. It does not need a heated chamber or even a heated bed (although it does a little better with the bed a little above room temperature, at 30-45°C) and you don't have to fight with warping or compensate for significant part shrinkage.</p>\n<p>The HTPET I use is rated for high HDT, 87°C as-is, and 100°C annealed. You can probably arrange for it to self-anneal during the printing process with the right settings; I'm planning to experiment with this at some point. To give you an idea how readily it anneals, the smokestack of a Benchy tends to anneal while printing it just from the accumulation of heat in a small area.</p>\n<p>It needs high print temperatures. 275°C is about the minimum. The manufacturer of the HTPET I used recommends 285°C for high speed, but I've found flow increases all the way up to around 320°C if you want to go faster.</p>\n<p>It is somewhat hard to find PET filament, despite it being fairly easy to make your own from recycling bottles. I would not really recommend that for your project because it's hard to get perfect flow to simultaneously ensure precision and part strength. There are at least a few manufacturers selling it in the US and probably elsewhere though.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 19830, 'author': 'FarO', 'author_id': 2338, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>The application doesn't look to be demanding at all from a material point of view. Operation below 40 °C and 70-90% RH is not that special.</p>\n<p>Once taken out PLA for creep, most rigid filaments would work. Nylon deform under constant stress, so screws may get loose over time.</p>\n<p>PETG, ABS, ABS+ (TitanX/niceABS are about as easy to print as PLA), ASA, ...</p>\n<p>For ease of print, PETG or ABS+ should be fine, but ABS will deform more before breaking, while PETG tends to shatter when it breaks.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19828', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/35019/']