<p>I have just bought a Creality CR-10 Smart 3D printer, and - as part of the rite of passage of newbies - I am struggling with getting a usable initial layer. Whilst trying to make sense of what I was seeing in the net and correlating it with what I was experiencing with my printer, I thought to check the printer's credentials (I had assumed it was a recent model). However, looking at the information on the LED screen, I see:</p>
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<th></th>
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<td>Machine type</td>
<td>CR-10 Smart</td>
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<td>Firmware version</td>
<td>HW 1.0.6</td>
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<td>Screen version</td>
<td>T18</td>
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<td>Hardware version</td>
<td>DWIN 4.3</td>
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<p>Can anyone comment on whether this is recent or ancient? Is it a V1 or a V2?</p>
<p>As a software engineer of several decades standing, but a complete newbie to 3D printing, I'm suffering from culture shock, and I'm struggling to understand why my printer doesn't just work &quot;out of the box&quot; like my line printers do.</p>
<p>I find it particularly difficult sorting out the information about Creality's various CR-10* models, partly because of the naming conventions, but chiefly because my CR-10 Smart doesn't look like any that I have seen referred to anywhere in the net. I was told that the CR-10 Smart had auto bed levelling (ABL) built in, but when I search for <code>CR-10S ABL</code> I only find stuff about add-ons like BLTouch, and nothing about the CR-10 Smart with built-in ABL.</p>
<p>Add into the mix the now traditional Internet problem that the date of web pages and whether they are still relevant is often unclear.</p>
<p>Then I found a Youtube video by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4I8b5-71rk" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WillCaddy</a>, which suggested that CR-10S printers with Creality firmware do not have ABL enabled, and that to get functioning ABL you had to install TH3D.</p>
<p>Is this true?</p>
<p>If anyone can help me with any of this, I would be very grateful. I am working my way slowly through Michael Laws' excellent <a href="https://teachingtechyt.github.io/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">&quot;Teaching Tech&quot; channel</a>, but I'm impatient...</p>

[{'answer_id': 18952, 'author': 'Elric1997', 'author_id': 33189, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33189', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I don't think it's because of Cura. You can try if it still works with the older version.</p>\n<p>Otherwise, clean your print bed with isopropanol before printing to remove residues or level again.  Without pictures of the condition of the print bed or the first layer, it is difficult to help.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 18958, 'author': 'Andy5172', 'author_id': 33106, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/33106', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Have tried all the possible answers and found the older version of Cura works better with the Chiron.  The printer is 3 months old, bed is cleaned after each print.</p>\n<p>I then tried the new Cura version again but with glue for adhesion,  that works.  It seems that it is changing the bed temperature, and using a lower default.  Have tried changing the bed temperature in the software before slicing, but found I have to manually set the temperature on the printer, I have been using the generic settings for the PLA, as the ones I have (E-DA) are not in the selection or in the market place.  TPU and PETG are printing fine.</p>\n<p>Will have to determine the optimum set-up and create my own defaults.</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18932', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/32843/']