<p>I've just built my son's A6 and have connected all cables apart from the last power cables. The mainboard says hotbed line and extruder line but the cable says heatbed.</p>

<p>The cables are two red which are crimped together and two black crimped together.</p>

<p>All of the videos online show a different mainboard and connections.
There are more connections than cables because the wires are crimped.</p>

<p>I can't get my head around which wires go where, any ideas?</p>

[{'answer_id': 10911, 'author': 'Greenonline', 'author_id': 4762, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>The manual appears to be available here, <a href="https://www.elektor.com/amfile/file/download/file/1606/product/8457/&amp;usg=AOvVaw3bQeEWg--MsnW9KbsTKc_c" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Installation Instruction_Anet A6 3D Printer - Elektor</a></p>\n<p>However, according to <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1342949" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this comment</a> from <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Hard copy of the build guide?</a>, there is a mistake in the PDF of the manual, with respect to the heatbed, and as such, it is better to follow the videos:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>I find it is better to use the 3 videos:</p>\n<ul>\n<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hOasLyRQk3E" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 1</a></li>\n<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQzOHL_89nc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printer Instruction--Anet 3D Printer A6 Assembly Video 2</a></li>\n<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uars72RdzK8" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printer Instruction- A6 - Hot Bed Level Adjustment and Print Test</a></li>\n</ul>\n<p>Only errors in the videos and i believe the instuction the Hetbed\nfixing plate i have build diffrently , rotated by 180 degrees\nvertical, since it is better for the belt and somewhere in the video\nduring fixating of the end-switch and the blower he interchanged the\nscrews.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>However, looking at the manual, if it is to be believed, then be aware that <em>as well as</em> one connection for the extruder motor, there are two connectors <em>each</em> for <em>both</em> the extruder and the hotbed heaters:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>One for the separate heating elements, of the extruder and hotbed respectively, and;</li>\n<li>One for the thermistor sensor (both the extruder <em>and</em> the hotbed have separate thermistors).</li>\n</ul>\n<p>This makes <em>five in total</em> for the extruder and the hotbed combined.</p>\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCBtC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Mainboard A6"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WCBtC.jpg" alt="Mainboard A6" title="Mainboard A6" /></a></p>\n<p>However, the power connections for the Extruder <em>motor</em> has four pins (in white at the top), whereas the heating elements for the hotbed and the extruder have two pins and are of a different shape (in green on the left). The sensor connections for both the extruder and the sensor have three pins (in white at the bottom), but it should be easy not to confuse them, so long as you follow the wires to check to which component they go to.</p>\n<hr />\n<h3>Additional points to be aware of</h3>\n<p>From <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/anet-a6/forums/general/topic:15480#comment-1343762" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this comment</a> in the same thread:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>I just built an A6 three weeks ago and with the videos it is really a\nbreeze to assemble the unit.</p>\n<p>Just pay attention to the heat bed mounting plate as it is installed\nbottoms up in the video. The bar connecting the outer two plates where\nthe heat bed is finally mounted should be below the plates, not above\nas in the video.</p>\n<p>Also, if you still have time, order some decent toothed belt, Igus\nDrylin RJ4JP-01, and toothwheels for the Y and X belts and replace the\noriginal pulleys, bearings, and belts before you even assemble the\nunit. I just changed mine last week and it does make a hell of a\ndifference - with this little upgrades (cost me less than 30$ for\neverything - at Amazon) you upgrade from an okay printer to a really\ndecent machine.</p>\n<ul>\n<li>The belt: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0152ZNDLK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK</a></li>\n<li>The pulleys: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B0188HW4Z0" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0</a></li>\n<li>The bearings: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B06XPRCMJS" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS</a>\n(actually, you need 8 pieces - not seven as in the images - 4 for the\nY-axis and 4 for the X-axis)</li>\n</ul>\n<p>The above are not the actual articles I\'ve bought because I am from\nEurope where Amazon sells in different quantities.</p>\n<p>If you want to go on the safe side, grab a second power supply and two\nMOSFET boards to remove the high current from the mainboard:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>PSU: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00D7CWSCG" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG</a>\n(just as an example)</li>\n<li>MOSFET: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B01MY50JL3" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3</a></li>\n<li>Power socket and switch: <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00ME5YAPK" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Certification-Socket/dp/B00ME5YAPK</a></li>\n</ul>\n<p>Last recommendation: get some 3mm borosilicate glass to lay (clip)\nover the heatbed. This will make the prints stick better and also\nprovide a perfectly flat surface for the builds (still, you\'ll need to\ndo the levelling)</p>\n<p>Glass:\n<a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00QQ5Q3BI" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Printer-Tempered-Borosilicate-2132003mm/dp/B00QQ5Q3BI</a></p>\n<p>When assembling the heatbed mount, pay lots of attention to the 16\nscrews. Tighten them one by one diagonally and move the bed around. If\nthe bed feels stuck, loosen the last screws and shift the mounts\naround a bit. The lighter this mount moves, the better your prints\nwill be.</p>\n<p>One thing that you must be aware: This printer is a great little unit,\nbut it needs love, dedication and plenty upgrades. Out of the box it\nworks okay, but with the upgrades it becomes a really good unit.</p>\n</blockquote>\n'}, {'answer_id': 10943, 'author': 'scott9951', 'author_id': 17443, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17443', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Thanx for the help, got it running now.\nThe board in the pic is the older version, my problem was the wires for the extruder had been cut really short for some reason and not labled.</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10910', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17443/']