<p>I have an Ender 3 with a removeable build surface. The build surface backing has become warped - the center is at least 0.3 mm higher than the corners. I'm not sure what the material of this plate is - it's the part behind the BuildTak-clone surface that sits on the aluminum heat bed and is clipped to it. This makes it impossible to level the entire bed, and annoyingly tedious to level it enough just to use the center, since the paper method doesn't work at the corners. Can this be fixed, or do I need to source a replacement for it?</p>

[{'answer_id': 11876, 'author': '0scar', 'author_id': 5740, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>I don\'t know what the value is, but there are a few ways to find out. It is very hard to measure this with a caliper, but it can be done, mark the upper and bottom of e.g. 10 windings and measure this with a caliper. Alternatively measure how much the screw drops after 10 full turns. </p>\n\n<p>There are special tools that give you the answer directly, they cost a few Euros/bucks but can be very handy; a thread gauge, just place the 0.5&nbsp;mm and the 0.7&nbsp;mm beside the screw and you will instantly see which is the correct one.</p>\n\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYqFm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UYqFm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>\n\n<p><em>I bought mine at a typical Chinese vendor site.</em></p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 11877, 'author': 'fred_dot_u', 'author_id': 854, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Possibly tongue in cheek here, but if you can detect a 0.2 mm change, you may be able to determine visually the thread pitch, although it means de-tuning your bed for the experiment. Keeping close count is part of the experiment and you can reverse the count easily enough.</p>\n\n<p>Make contact with the nozzle at the location of one screw. Count the turns in order to set the screw back to original location (or don't worry, re-tune later).</p>\n\n<p>If the pitch is 0.5 mm, two complete turns would give you a millimeter, while the 0.7 mm pitch will give you 1.4 mm. Make it four turns and the difference is more apparent. That would present a 2.0 mm compared to 2.8 mm for the two types of threads.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 11886, 'author': 'Andrew Morton', 'author_id': 11255, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11255', 'pm_score': 4, 'selected': True, 'text': "<p>I measured mine with a thread gauge and it says the pitch is <strong>0.7 mm</strong>.</p>\n<p>So, as the stock adjustment wheels have 14 bumps around their circumference, turning by one of those is an adjustment of exactly 0.05 mm (assuming no backlash).</p>\n<p>I can't speak for anyone else's, but due to the availability of replacement height adjustment wheels which don't specify alternative thread pitches, I <em>guess</em> that's the only one in use. I encourage you to verify my finding before relying on it.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 11887, 'author': 'Trish', 'author_id': 8884, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Just as Andrew, I did run a quick test to measure it: on my corner closest to &lt;0,0,0>, a little stud is poking out. <em>Just</em> enough to screw on a threadcutter I know without any cutting happening:</p>\n\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4fWc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/W4fWc.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a>\n<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jWyf.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7jWyf.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>\n\n<p>Indeed, it is <strong>M4x0.7</strong>, aka coarse thread.</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11890', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157/']