<p>I've got an Anycubic Predator (aka Anycubic D). I followed the official instructions and leveled my printer. </p>

<p>The first annoying problem I ran into is that after the auto-leveling, the level test printing shows that the printer wasn't leveled at all. I tried about 4-5 times, and finally leveled the printer (I thought I just got lucky).</p>

<p>The second problem that isn't solved is that the prints I get are of poor quality. Shown in <em>figure 1</em> and <em>figure 2</em>. The cube should be 20x20x20&nbsp;mm, but what I got here is 19.6(x) x 20.4(y) x 20.5(z)&nbsp;mm.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeclv.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeclv.jpg" alt="fig1"></a>
<em>Figure 1 - X-Y (side) view of calibration square</em></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YkU0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YkU0.jpg" alt="fig2"></a>
<em>Figure 2 - Z (top) view of calibration square</em></p>

<p>Does anyone have any idea about how to improve the printer's printing quality? Thanks in advance.</p>

[{'answer_id': 13657, 'author': 'R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE', 'author_id': 11157, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>In terms of Cura\'s model for showing overhangs, I\'m nearly sure it\'s just the ratio - rise over run, or rather run over rise. And indeed that\'s what makes sense mathematically:</p>\n\n<p>At least some portion of the wall extrusion in layer N+1 needs to sit on top of the corresponding wall extrusion in layer N. For a given 3D surface slope, the "run" - the distance the cross-section moves from one layer to the next, which needs to be bounded by some fraction of the line width - varies proportionally to the "rise" - the layer height.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 13659, 'author': 'FarO', 'author_id': 2338, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>A wide line works if there is something below it to squeeze the filament against, but if you don't have a full layer below it, it will stay thinner and it will droop. I would not use extreme ratios on overhangs. Still, do a parametric test: a overhang tower (a compact one) at different line widths and layer heights. If you test 3 layer heights and 3 line widths, it's only 9 short prints.</p>\n<p>However, as you can see in filament reviews, different materials behave differently. I think there is no <em>a priori</em> optimal value.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 13875, 'author': 'woneill1701', 'author_id': 21453, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21453', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Cura high-lights overhangs in red if the printer would end up printing completely into thin air. </p>\n\n<p>If your overhang is angled instead of being a purely vertical-to-horizontal transition, a much thinner layer height can increase the chances that enough of the prior layer exists to support the next layer being printed. </p>\n\n<p>Basically, the thinner the layer (within reason), the greater the allowable angle of overhang that is safe to print.</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13656', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/17222/']