<p>I am trying to print the 3 jaw lathe chuck on <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Thingiverse</a>. This specific piece is the scroll.stl, but it applies on every big piece. The print material is (transparent) PLA, that I print on custom glass bed, which is heated by a regular heated bed at 65&nbsp;°C. However, my print is warping on the external edges of a solid 2&nbsp;mm for a 85&nbsp;mm diameter print.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7rCP.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7rCP.jpg" alt="Print warping"></a></p>

<p>I didn't use the cooling fan. And I don't have an enclosure to keep the warmth inside the printing area. The nozzle temperature is around 200&nbsp;°C.</p>

<p>What could be wrong?
The printer is a slightly modified Prusa i3 MK2.</p>

[{'answer_id': 8752, 'author': 'Perry Webb', 'author_id': 15075, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Several things I've done to stop warping when it occurred:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li><p>Use a wider brim.</p></li>\n<li><p>If the brim isn't sticking, use a higher bed temperature for the first layer.</p></li>\n<li><p>If the brim comes up only on one side or warping is only on one side, make sure the bed is level.  </p></li>\n<li><p>Slowing down the print will keep you from having as long of a strand cooling down.  This will lower the contraction force and reduce warping.  </p></li>\n<li><p>A hotter bed temperature will reduce the temperature difference between the extrusion and the bed, thus reducing the contraction force.  </p></li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>200&nbsp;°C is a good temperature for getting PLA to stick.  I've tried lower extrusion temperatures to reduce the temperature difference between the extruder and the bed, but this decreases adhesion to the bed and is counterproductive. </p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 9773, 'author': 'Levi Giesbrecht', 'author_id': 14700, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14700', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Glass is tricky. Try using a glue stick. It makes the problem getting it off more than keeping it on. Magigoo and Aquanet also come highly recommended for glass. Another thing would be printing with a raft. Raft's stick pretty well, and most prints stick to a raft, and those prints won't lift. A third trick would be using an extrusion multiplier <em>on your first layer only.</em> As far as slicer tricks go, check to see when (if at all) your cooling fans turn on. usually, fans will turn on about 12-15 layer into your print. Any earlier, and they may peel. Bed level, although crucial to have to some degree of accuracy, is somewhat nullified when a raft is used. </p>\n\n<p>Hope that helps!</p>\n"}]
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