<p>I have a Monoprice architect which is a barebones clone of the FlashForge Creator Pro, or Replicator 1 Dual. I have upgraded the power supply and added a heated bed and, after getting fed up with MakerBot software, I've started using Cura to slice then post process with GPX.</p>

<p>I did a lot of searching and finally found someone who posted their start and end G-code for this particular printer. The only catch is that his code only works on version 15.04.</p>

<p>Don't get me wrong, 15.04 is a huge upgrade compared to MakerWare. But, I would really like to start using a newer version like 2.5 or anything relatively new.</p>

<p>Here is the start code I found. I have tried it in 2.5 with error in post processing. Any help is appreciated!!</p>

<pre><code>; -- START GCODE --
M136 ; start build
M73 P0
G90 ; absolute coordinates
;
; set temperatures and assert Vref
M140 S{print_bed_temperature}
M104 S{print_temperature} T0
G130 X118 Y118 A118 B118 ; set stepper motor Vref to defaults
; let the Z stepper vref stay at eeprom level (probably 40)
;
; home and recall eeprom home position
T0 ; home on the right nozzle
G28 X Y Z ; home all axes at homing speed
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 ; set all coords to 0 for now
G1 Z5 F500 ; move Z 5mm away so we can carefully hit the limit switch
G161 Z F100 ; home Z slowly
M132 X Y Z ; recall stored home offsets for XYZ axes
;
; wait for heat up
G1 X110 Y-72 Z30 F3300 ; move to waiting position
M116 ; wait for temps
;
; purge and wipe
G92 E0 ; set current extruder position as 0 so that E15 below makes sense
G1 X110 Y-70 Z0.2 F2400.0 ; move to just on the bed
G1 X110 Y70 E15 F1200.000 ; extrude a line of filament along the right edge of the bed
G92 E0 ; set E to 0 again because the slicer's next extrusion is relative to this 0
;
; Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
; Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
; Print time: {print_time}
; Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
; Filament cost: {filament_cost}
; -- end of START GCODE --
</code></pre>

[{'answer_id': 4260, 'author': 'ON5MF Jurgen', 'author_id': 6812, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6812', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>One of the applications of 3d printing with wax is when making jewellery using the lost-wax casting process.\nI don't know if there are 'cheap' 3d printers for wax. One brand of 3d printers for wax is Solid-Scape.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 4261, 'author': 'Davo', 'author_id': 4922, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Yes, with the proper equipment.</p>\n\n<p>Printing wax filament (at 51 seconds): <a href="https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s" rel="noreferrer">https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s</a></p>\n\n<p>There are also options for melting wax, filling a heated reservoir head, and printing with that. I recommend doing this with a cold ambient temperature, so that the wax solidifies quickly. There\'s no point in just printing a puddle. :)</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4268, 'author': 'morevitamins', 'author_id': 7420, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7420', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Should be easy to do it in low temperatures, also check for moldlay filament.</p>\n\n<p>Wax is indeed useful for lost-wax casting method.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4269, 'author': 'iFreilicht', 'author_id': 7540, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7540', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Yes, you can. But no, you don\'t need to make your own filament for it, there is one called <a href="http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52" rel="noreferrer">Print2Cast</a> that you can buy for about 50$/kg.</p>\n\n<p>This filament has the following recommended slicing settings:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Extrusion temperature:</strong> 140°C-150°C</li>\n<li><strong>Bed temperature:</strong> 80°-90°C</li>\n<li><strong>Shells:</strong> 2-3 (for most models)</li>\n<li><strong>Print speed:</strong> 20 to 70mm/s</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>There are, however, a few more things to look out for when printing with wax, as it is very soft.</p>\n\n<p>The most important issue is the grip of the extruder wheel. See if other people have used your printer/extruder with flexible filaments. If they were successful in doing that, there\'s a high chance a wax print will succeed as well.</p>\n\n<p>Bed adhesion might also be an issue. <a href="http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52" rel="noreferrer">MachinableWax.com</a> recommend 6 coats of hair spray on a glass bed, letting each of them dry before adding the next.</p>\n\n<p>Cooling is also important, as with many filaments. You\'ll probably have to experiment with that a little as either too much or too little can ruin your print.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 8262, 'author': 'Todd heinz', 'author_id': 14522, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14522', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Just make a silicone mold of any of your prints and pour you wax in the silicone,you silicone putty is pretty cheap so is wax ,no need to break the bank as printers have become less expensive and can do a pretty good job </p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4267', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7536/']