<p>I currently have a print job that is about 50% done, been running for 2 hours with 2 hours remaining.  One side is curling/warping pretty bad, and I'm afraid there's no possible way this is going to finish without serious problems if I don't intervene.</p>

<p>So what I'm doing is either brilliant or idiotic, I'm not sure which: I've paused the print job, stuck some elmers glue below the curling part (with toothpicks, careful not to budge anything else), added a couple degrees to the heatbed (for pliability hopefully), put a small book on top of it to smash it on the glue and let it rest for a little bit (I'll report back if this was a horrible idea or not).</p>

<p><strong>So my main quesiton:</strong> Is there any other techniques that you folks can recommend for a scenario like this?  McGuyver'y techniques to repair your in-progress print jobs?  Has anyone tried this technique I'm attempting and if so how successful was it?</p>

<p>In case it matters, I have an ANET A8 and generally send my print jobs to Octoprint (Raspi) from Cura with a Octoprint plugin (Windows).  Printing with PLA filament.  I've done quite a few successful prints recently, but this is the first one that goes from corner-to-corner on the heatbed (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2189694" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this specifically</a>).  Printing at 207c with 60c heatbed (bumped up to 64 while glue settles).  It's in a cooler room of the house, and doesn't have an enclosure so I'm afraid the cool temp is affecting it.</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Edit, last maybe significant (or maybe not) details: printing on glass with glue stick applied to it - been doing it for weeks and works quite well for the most part.  Also, printing on a raft.</p>

<p>Edit, here are a few pics.  Both are from the back of the printer looking forward.  I have one cam almost exactly level with the glass so I can see the hot-end extrude filament and another one slightly above it.  Sorry for the bad lighting.  Also included screenshots of my slicer settings for this print.  </p>

<p>Btw, I've since resumed printing after glueing it down, so far so good - but as you can see in the first pic it may have some possible structural defects and still has a slight curl:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2sxA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/B2sxA.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YhXj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3YhXj.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhMjG.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/KhMjG.png" alt="Slicer Settings"></a></p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVyqz.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/wVyqz.png" alt="Slicer Settings (pt2)"></a></p>

[{'answer_id': 4859, 'author': 'Mark R', 'author_id': 8890, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8890', 'pm_score': -1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>More glue to hold it down and lower in-fill percentage will reduce the warping. Or adding more cut-outs to the design like you have further up the shaft. </p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4863, 'author': 'cmm', 'author_id': 2082, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2082', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Three thoughts:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>bed temperature</li>\n<li>rim width</li>\n<li>bonding agent</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>Bed Temperature:</p>\n\n<p>Often the edges of a heated bed are not as hot as the center.  Making the heat pass through an insulator (the glass) makes the temperature profile on the corners more relatively cool compared to the center than if you were printing directly on the aluminum bed.</p>\n\n<p>To offset that, you could:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>Increase the overall heated bed temperature.</li>\n<li>Wrap some insulation (such as ceramic felt) around the edge, keeping it out of the way of the print.</li>\n<li>Add insulation to the underside corners of the bed, to reduce heat loss.</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>Rim Thickness:</p>\n\n<p>I see that you are using a rim.  Since the rim was also pulling up, rather than the print pulling out of the rim, you might benefit from making the rim broader.</p>\n\n<p>Bonding Agent:</p>\n\n<p>It looks as if you are printing on blue tape, but that might be the picture.  IME, gluestick and blue tape aren\'t often used together.  If you are using only blue tape, the condition of the tape is critical.  Any grease or rubbing of the tape (such as by resting your hand on the bed when making other prints) can reduce the holding power.</p>\n\n<p>If you haven\'t tried it yet, you might try printing PLA with the PVA (polyvinyl alcohol) gluestick.  I use the "purple until dry" Elmers gluesticks with good results.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4864, 'author': 'Steve-O-Rama', 'author_id': 8768, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8768', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Putting a large brim on it can help, I've seen people rescue prints with larger brims by literally adding weights to the brim around the areas that are peeling up. I've done it by taping brim edges down carefully as the print goes.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4858', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8888/']