<p>So I recently installed a genuine E3D V6 (direct) on my AM8 (Anet a8 with upgraded frame). I have already been able to fix most of the print quality problems. But the last one is a hard one for me. </p>

<p>It prints super fine up until a certain height. Then the extruder starts slipping and starts making weird noises like its clogged but I will be able to push through filament properly after cancelling the print. I thought it was heat creep but when touching the spiral heat break it is just a tad warm. I can comfortably put my finger on it and keep it there. </p>

<p>I also tried two different brands of filament and it seems to happen roughly at the same spot. </p>

<p>I tried PID tuning (the temps are literally perfect and super straight with no fluctuations), I tried cleaning the extruder gear and checked if it was worn or anything. Then I tightened everything on the extruder, making sure everything was nice and snug. </p>

<p>I am not exactly a newbie when it comes to fixing my own printer and troubleshooting the problems but this one I have never seen or had before. </p>

<p>Do you guys have any tips for me to point me in the right direction?</p>

<p>Running Marlin 1.1.8. I have a BLTouch on it and an AnyCubic UltraBase. </p>

[{'answer_id': 6469, 'author': '0scar', 'author_id': 5740, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>I have had some similar problems as you describe with my custom build CoreXY printer. I used an all-metal heat break for my 2.85 mm diameter filament. The heat break clogged up. I found that the inner diameter of the heatbreak, although specifically designed for 3 mm filament, narrowed down having a ledge inside. I replaced the heat break with a spare with a teflon tube inside, and never had any problems again.</p>\n\n<p>Since then I scoured the internet to find some proper all metal heat breaks and order a few that do not seem to have that deficiency. I have not tried these (while hot, but when cold the filament also moves better through it and does not get stuck on a ledge like the first one), but will when I print POM and <a href="https://colorfabb.com/pa-cf-low-warp-679" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ColorFabb PA-CF Low Warp</a> with my soon to arrive Olsson Ruby nozzle.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 6566, 'author': 'Granny', 'author_id': 8283, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8283', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>I used a different heat break with a PFTE lining inside. After that it ran smoothly. </p>\n\n<p>Probably what was happening was that my filament was getting too hot and started to stick on the full metal heat break. </p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5968', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8283/']