<p>This issue just started recently; I am not sure if it is because of the specific part I am printing or whether something on the printer is going bad. Up until now, I have been printing all kinds of parts with no problems whatsoever.</p>
<p>I am printing a hollow sphere whose walls have fill paths that require the X and Y to change rapidly. i.e. the wall is 2 mm thick and the wall-line-count setting is set to 2.</p>
<p>When the print head is jerking back and forth to fill in this area it causes horrible vibrations and really bad Y layer shift. You can see the vibrations transferred through the flexible neck of the black LED light in the foreground.</p>
<p><div class="youtube-embed"><div>
                <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/T4knYy665fI?start=0"></iframe>
            </div></div></p>
<p>All the Cura settings are at default- I have not tried to speed up my printing in any way by adjusting the settings.</p>
<p>The vibration seems to be coming from the Y stepper.</p>
<p>I have already tried tightening the belt; everything else seems tight.</p>
<p>It is an Ender 3 Pro with a stock mainboard and probably around 50 hours on it +/- 20 hours.</p>
<p>I have printed the same part on my other printer with no issues.</p>
<p>This is happening now on other parts that do not have particularly high jerk paths, it is shifting the Y by a full mm or more at a time.</p>
<p>Would you say the stepper motor is going bad? Or the driver? Or something else?</p>
<p>Here is the part in the video; I of course stopped the print after it started shifting:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ9JC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQ9JC.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>And this is how it is supposed to look:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bkr03.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bkr03.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>EDIT:</p>
<p>Here is the path that causes the problem:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4rPv.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/k4rPv.png" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

[{'answer_id': 16233, 'author': 'Perry Webb', 'author_id': 15075, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>It is unlikely this is a filament material issue since many of us have used Hatchbox PLA without this issue.  This is a first layer adhesion issue.</p>\n<ol>\n<li><p>Your bed may not be clean, or the bed may have had an adhesion layer you cleaned off.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Your nozzle may be too high on the first layer.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Your bed my not be level.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Glue sticks can help adhesion.  Glue sticks usually don\'t post the composition on the packaging, but Elmer\'s glue sticks work.  Elmer\'s washable makes it easy to remove the old layer before adding a new one.  There are also glue sticks specified for 3D-printing.</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n<p>Here\'s a discussion on glue sticks: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15281/are-all-glue-sticks-pva-based-how-to-find-out/15283#15283">Are all glue sticks PVA-based? How to find out?</a></p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 16236, 'author': '0scar', 'author_id': 5740, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': "<p>PLA is a forgiving filament, you can even print such filament without a heated bed. Although there are differences in quality between brands, PLA shouldn't need a raft to be printed. Hatchbox filament is not considered as a low quality type of filament; it is economical and has been around since 2013. A raft is a structured platform that is specifically used for high temperature and or high shrinkage types of filament, PLA is not such a filament and shouldn't need a raft. This implies that something is wrong with getting the filament sticking to the plate. Good adhesion requires a levelled bed, a correct initial nozzle to build plate distance (e.g. paper thickness) and possibly an adhesive like a glue stick, special adhesion spray, a textured bed or blue tape, etc.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 16243, 'author': 'Greenreader9', 'author_id': 28179, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28179', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Please try one (or more) of the following:</p>\n<ol>\n<li><p>Change the temperature of your heated bed (50 - 60\xa0°C)</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Check your nozzle height (0.15 - 0.25\xa0mm is what I use)</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Make sure your bed is level (Maybe use a leaving stick (or whatever those bubble things are called))</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Use adhesion. Start with painter's tape (least damaging, easy to remove), then use a glue stick or even hair spray if necessary.</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>Be sure the bed is clean (I recommend glass cleaner 1-3 squirts and then a light scrub of a paper towel)</p>\n</li>\n</ol>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/16239', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14623/']