<p>I have used PLA and PLA+ so far and I know that it can use ABS and PETG but I'm curious what other materials could I in theory use with my Ender 3?</p>
<p>It is a stock configuration, for the time being at least until after Christmas, and my grandfather and I have designed an enclosure to build together.</p>

[{'answer_id': 18175, 'author': 'Criggie', 'author_id': 12956, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12956', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Consider <strong>Wood PLA</strong>.  It is similar to PLA but more abrasive, and with different happy-temperatures.</p>\n<p>Especially useful if you want to paint your output, or if you have woodworking skills/tools then prints can be (somewhat) worked and incorporated into larger projects.</p>\n<p>Imagine printing detailed <strong>scallions</strong> or <strong>crenellations</strong> or <strong>gargoyles</strong> for a spooky dollhouse - the main walls would use an inordinate amount of filament whereas sheet-wood is cheaper.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 18176, 'author': 'user10489', 'author_id': 28397, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28397', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>A (pre-2019) stock ender3 can't print tpu because of a 3mm gap between the driver in the extruder and the bowden tube.  But there are multiple adapter plates on thingiverse that close this gap, and then tpu works fine (with some tuning).</p>\n<p>I got tpu to work for small parts even without the adapter plate.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 18180, 'author': 'R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE', 'author_id': 11157, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': True, 'text': "<p>PLA is just about the only common material that prints <em>well</em> on the stock Ender 3. The extruder lacks proper grip and/or torque at the hob for printing PETG well, and printing TPU with a bowden tube is very slow and error-prone. All of these should work if you're willing to go very slow (20-30 mm/s top) though. ABS and ASA are probably doable, at least with a simple enclosure, but I don't have any experience with them. Most other common materials need significantly higher temperatures than the hotend's safe limit of 250 ˚C.</p>\n<p>However there are a couple uncommon materials that should print well:</p>\n<ul>\n<li><p>PVB (polyvinyl butyral, probably best known as Polymaker Polysmooth). It prints at temperatures similar to PLA, but is soluble (and therefore smoothable) in isopropyl alcohol (IPA).</p>\n</li>\n<li><p>PLC (polycaprolactone) is a very-low-temperature material most commonly used in &quot;3D pens&quot;. In fact the temperatures for it are so low (70-140 ˚C) that you'll likely need to send special gcode commands to disable the &quot;minimum extrude temperature&quot; in the printer's firmware or flash firmware without that limitation.</p>\n</li>\n</ul>\n<p>Finally, I guess I should mention that POM (Acetal/Delrin) is within the range of the stock hotend and extruder's capabilities, but is utter hell to print. It doesn't adhere to anything but itself, and warps badly as it cools.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18173', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31152/']