<p>I have a CR-10S 500 and want to change a capacitor on it to improve and solve temperature issues. This capacitor that needs to be changed should be labeled as "C4" as mentioned on <a href="https://www.jozerworx.com/creality-cr-10s-c4-capacitor-diy-fix-tutorial/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> post but it's not present on my motherboard. The goal is to replace 100uF capacitor with 220uF 16V capacitor.</p>

<p>This is what the motherboard <strong>should</strong> look like:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgZyh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/AgZyh.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>but mine looks different. Below is what it looks like:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aw0Ww.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>There is no version number on my motherboard and there is no "C4" capacitor. Also, the component that's labeled "330" on the original board is labeled "470" on my motherboard. It's hard to decide which capacitor to change. On my motherboard, there two capacitors instead of one, closer to the location of the capacitor that needs to be replaced. They are labeled "C42" and "C35" instead of "C4". I do not want to replace the wrong one since it's risky enough to replace just one capacitor on these boards.</p>

<p>Anyone know my motherboard type or version? Also, which capacitor to change?</p>

<p>EDIT:</p>

<p>Here is a better or zoomed in section of the place:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/896Ft.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/896Ft.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>As <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7462/which-capacitor-to-change-on-cr-10s-s500-motherboard#comment11920_7462">Trish</a> requested in the comment, below is also the back side of the motherboard.</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oj12r.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/oj12r.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>theSealion might be right in his answer and I did a test and it all points to "C31" as he suggested but the problem is that the capacitor is different from the one it is supposed to be replaced with like on other CR-10 boards. I am not entirely sure if this is the capacitor since the type of capacitor are different from the one I was suggested to use.  Below is the new capacitor:</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4iFm.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/O4iFm.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

<p>My current idea is to remove the tiny "C31", solver wire to pin 4 of LM2596 and to the new capacitor but I do not want to remove the "C31" because I don't want anything to go bad. </p>

<p>Can I add the new capacitor parallel to the existing "C31" without removing the "C31"?</p>

[{'answer_id': 7463, 'author': 'theSealion', 'author_id': 13095, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/13095', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>You are looking for a capacitor that must be connected to Pin 4 of the LM2596.</p>\n\n<p>Maybe you could provide a better picture of that area so we could see the different tracks on the board.</p>\n\n<p>The LM2596 is in the center of the right side of the board (it is also labeled  with LM2596D). The pins should be counted from top to bottom (in your picture)</p>\n\n<p>My guess is, the Elko you are looking for is connected to C31, and you must look for the positive pin.</p>\n\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1h1U6.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1h1U6.png" alt="LM2596 Wiring"></a></p>\n\n<p>In this wiring diagram Cout is the capacitor you are looking for. The SMD Parts R1, R2 and CFF should be R31, R32 and C31 in your picture.</p>\n\n<p>With the corresponging measurements I would say you do not need to replace the capacitors. </p>\n\n<p>In comparison to the old board your board already has the "fix" implemented. </p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 7470, 'author': 'Trish', 'author_id': 8884, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<h1>You are looking at the wrong board</h1>\n<p>Your board might on the surface look like a Creality v 2.0 board, and is indeed from the same family of boards. After trying to discern the parts and finally resorting to google image search, I almost had to maniacally laugh:</p>\n<p>The currently latest version is the <a href="https://www.creality3d.shop/products/mainboard-upgraded-replacement-controller-board-latest-v2-1-version-motherboard-for-creality-cr-10s-s4-s5-3d-printer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Creality 2.1</a>, but your board clearly is a pre 2.0 board, as the 2.0 and 2.1 are quite similar, almost identical in the areas in question. According to the standard nomenclature, a 2.X board should be a full new engineering or vastly re-engineered board. So I looked up a Creality 1.X board - And indeed, it looks somewhat closer to a CR-10 motherboard in the area around the black capacitor, but that is marked 150/151. So it is <a href="https://www.creality3d.shop/collections/accessories/products/creality-cr-10-motherboard" rel="nofollow noreferrer">not a Creality 1.1.2 / 1.1.3</a>, also known as &quot;CR-10&quot; board.</p>\n<p>My best guess (Confirmed by OP and <a href="https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledge-base/creality-cr-10-and-cr-10s-models-what-printer-do-you-have/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>) is, that your board is an intermediate step between the Creality 1.1.x Board for the CR-10 and the <em>new</em> CR-10S 2.0/2.1, so by nomenclature a <em>proto-2.0</em>. Among Makers, it is called &quot;original CR-10S&quot; at times. Your numbers should thus be read from this board:</p>\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zgh0z.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zgh0z.jpg" alt="Original CR10S Board" /></a></p>\n<p>There is a 100/35V/UT Capacity in the indicated spot in both the green and black renditions.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 7475, 'author': 'Greenonline', 'author_id': 4762, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<h3>An important note on Voltage Rating</h3>\n<p>Just to add to the existing answers.</p>\n<p>If you are planning on upgrading the capacitors to some with larger capacitance, then assuming that they are for the <em>supply regulation/smoothing</em> then upping the capacitance shouldn\'t be (too much of) an issue. If they are used for <em>timing</em>, i.e. in an <em>RC</em> circuit (which seems unlikely in this particular case), then the capacitance should/must be kept the same.</p>\n<p>However, the <strong>main issue</strong> that I see is that the existing capacitors are rating at 35\xa0V, and you are planning on adding lower rating capacitors, i.e. 16\xa0V. This is asking for trouble and at best an early failure, or blown capacitor.</p>\n<p>The voltage rating should be between 1.5-2.0 times the voltage of the circuit, or better still (possible overkill), double the circuit voltage and then use the next voltage rating.</p>\n<p>So, for a 12\xa0V circuit, use a 25\xa0V rated capacitor, or 35\xa0V. The 16\xa0V is a bit of a no-no, and besides you don\'t want to mix voltage ratings for the same circuit, not a good idea, unless you actually want a common point of failure.</p>\n<p>See sources: <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/15700/selecting-voltage-rate-for-capacitors">Selecting voltage rate for capacitors</a> and <a href="https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/13091/high-voltage-capacitor-in-a-low-voltage-system">High Voltage Capacitor, in a low voltage system?</a></p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/7462', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9090/']