<p>The e3D volcano features an extended heater block of length 20&nbsp;mm with the cartridge heater running parallel to the filament.</p>

<p>The purpose of this is to increase the speeds at which filament can be printed (of course the extruder and other factors may still be limiting factors).</p>

<p>My question is how capable would this heat block be of printing at slow speeds with a 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle?</p>

<p>Is printing still possible at lower speeds or is the filament heated too much that jams occur? Is the retraction performance okay?</p>

[{'answer_id': 11970, 'author': 'dex', 'author_id': 19305, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19305', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': "<p>Speaking from first hand experience running a Volcano hotend, mostly using a 0.6&nbsp;mm nozzle, but I have used 0.4&nbsp;mm as well. I can't really complain about any lower printing speed limit (low speeds are usually a solution to high speeds problems for me).</p>\n\n<p>Just for completeness: I am using a DaVinci 1.1 Plus with custom firmware (modified Marlin) and an E3D Volcano hotend. No problems with the nozzle, clean prints! Note: I am using the Titan Aero as extruder but not using the included pancake motor! Went with the original motor of the DaVinci.</p>\n\n<p>And as always: the parameters are key! Given a bit of tuning you can get amazing results! For PLA and ABS I can work without stringing. Although ABS seems to be prone to pitting (slight underextrusion at start of path). TPU and other flex are sometimes a bit of a challenge, but that's mainly due to my own lack of experience there.</p>\n\n<p>The one important caveat here would be to also reduce the nozzle temperature. A possible theory here might be that the filament has more time and surface to heat up.</p>\n\n<p><em>(Sometimes I go as much as 15&nbsp;°C lower as compared to normal/high speeds! Usually lower speeds means small pieces for me and in term means a limit to the layer cooling time.)</em></p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 12112, 'author': 'CarvedBlock', 'author_id': 3796, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/3796', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>The worry must be about oozing and stringing. In general, no worries! Nothing a bit of tuning would not fix.</p>\n\n<p>I have experience printing with Volcano with 0.4, 0.6, 0.8, and 1.0&nbsp;mm diameter. \nPLA, PETG, Nylon, TPE, and TPU. (Volcano nozzles have been my default style for several years now. I don't even own a 10&nbsp;mm heat block anymore (ok, maybe one)).</p>\n\n<p>And yes, speaking of the classic 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle, you get higher stringing and oozing compared to 10&nbsp;mm meltzone. You'll need to tune your retraction - it will be significatnly higher than 10&nbsp;mm meltzone (I'm not giving numbers because it depends on printer style, material, nozzle diameter, temperature, and even slicer and slicer settings...).</p>\n\n<p>I do like to print quite hot though with lots of cooling (PLA 220&nbsp;°C for example) to increase layer adhesion and strength - so I experience this more. </p>\n\n<p>For oozing, you may need to experiment with XY travel speeds, wiping settings, coasting settings, and similar (this also will help with stringing). </p>\n\n<p>Also, keep in mind that the bigger the nozzle diameter, the more cooling you'll need (coupled with slower print) just to solidify that massive extrusion flow/mass. </p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11968', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19038/']