<p>Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.</p>
<p>Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319</a> (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.</p>
<p>After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners  but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?</p>
<p>Corner pice:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGeA2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGeA2.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>
<p>Center piece:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfSas.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfSas.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

[{'answer_id': 14139, 'author': 'mike', 'author_id': 22030, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/22030', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually this is not leveling alone, but it looks like the bed is not a perfect plane/perfectly flat. This is normal, my ikea mirror and my stock bed show the same thing. Now here's one solution:</p>\n<p>Print calibration stickers, like you already did on various places around the bed to get a feel, where it is too low. Let it cool and put painters tape (the very very thin tape, that should not burn) on areas, where the bed is too low. Print more calibration rectangles and check if you have enough. Repeat until you cannot see a difference.</p>\n<p>It took me about 2h to level everything absolutely perfectly. This was 2 years ago and I didn't have to touch the tape below my bed ever since. It just works.</p>\n<p>Alternative solutions involve mesh bed leveling and buying a new bed surface or even the surface below the bed. However, I found that to neither of them work reliably, whereas the simple tuning does what it's supposed to.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 15183, 'author': 'Pixel', 'author_id': 23647, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23647', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I had exact same issues with my Ender 3 v2. Using the stock default glass the middle would be too far out and I was never able to level it just right - no matter what I did - I could have stayed on it for hours.</p>\n<p>In matter of fact, it wasn't just the middle, it was the middle between each of the corner points as well, meaning, imagine a plus sign going across from the dead middle of the bed vertically and horizontally, where all that area would be a little too far out.</p>\n<p>I did anything I could, eventually what solved it for me was tightening all of the frame once again, making sure the x-axis gantry doesn't wobble, the hotend doesn't wobble and then realign the gantry nuts below the bed, to help with this alignment I actually tilted the whole printer 90° so gravity will help the wheels get the right alignment.</p>\n<p>The issues such as you are describing were gone after complete overhaul tightening as mentioned above.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14138', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/22027/']