<p>I would like to secure my hotend thermistor in a more reliable way (now it is just thermistor plugged in the hotend :D). I want to have a stainless steel tip for it to fix it inside hotend with a screw (The same approach as used for the heating cartridge). I have thermistors, but I cannot find any tips to buy separately.</p>

<p>Maybe you have some links for this kind of stainless-steel tips? Or some keywords I can use to search them?</p>

[{'answer_id': 687, 'author': 'tbm0115', 'author_id': 98, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>There\'s an answer <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/519/how-to-improve-face-that-are-printed-on-support?answertab=oldest#tab-top">here</a> that holds some of the same concepts. Regarding your questions: </p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Does lowering the temperature help? Raising it?</strong> : Yes, lowering the temperature can help. I\'ve found that it is best to stay closer to the lower end of the material\'s melting point and just a bit above the point. Not only does this help with potential over extrusion, but also shortens the time it takes for the material to cool (refer to the link above). <em>However</em>, this could cause clogging if your temperature is too low. Keep an eye on your drive gear to see if there is too much friction while at lower temperatures. Increasing may keep the drive gear from "eating" your filament.</li>\n<li><strong>Does speeding up or slowing down the print head help?</strong> : I prefer to print slower, most of the time, to allow the material to cool a bit more to avoid curling/warping (I primarily print with ABS, so it matters more). You might be able to give and take between temperature and speed. Consider if your nozzle is cooler and your speed is up, bridging gaps might yield the same results as if you proportionately swap these two values. This concept may only matter if you are in a pinch to get the part done. Again, I prefer slowing my machine down as it allows current/previous layers to cool more before continuing. This can be especially helpful with overhangs when paired with lowering your nozzle temperature.</li>\n<li><strong>Does increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help</strong> - I assume that extrusion diameter equals layer height (not difference in nozzle diameter, aka swapping nozzles). I\'m not completely sure, but I think this depends on the part as well as slicing engine settings. For me, MakerWare is pretty good about proportionately adjusting extrusion steps with layer height, so I see an equal change in the width of the extrusion. I would think that in general, a larger layer height would yield a larger extrusion width. This would be helpful when printing overhangs, but may not be helpful when printing bridges (a larger strand will retain heat longer than a smaller one).</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Hopefully this helps, please comment if you need more information/clarification.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 688, 'author': 'Ryan Carlyle', 'author_id': 298, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298', 'pm_score': 5, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>The two most important things you can do are:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Provide adequate cooling to solidify the plastic quickly</li>\n<li>Minimize layer height</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Cooling is really obvious. You need the plastic to solidify before it has a chance to sag. PLA in particular has to shed a lot of heat before it is fully solid. A fan and air guide setup using a "squirrel-cage" radial blower around the nozzle is optimal. A little 30mm or 40mm axial fan will not provide optimal performance. </p>\n\n<p>Low layer height when slicing is less obvious, but is extremely effective. When you use thinner layers, two things happen:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>There is less melted plastic per pass and a higher surface area to volume ratio, so the fresh material cools faster. </li>\n<li>A larger percentage of each strand in the overhang is supported by the previous strand. If you do 0.2mm thick by 0.4mm wide, half of each strand is unsupported. But if you do 0.1mm thick by 0.4mm wide, only a quarter of each strand is unsupported. </li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>When you combine these two effects, it is possible to exceed 70 degree overhangs with good surface quality. </p>\n\n<p>Another lesser factor is printing shells/perimeters inside-out rather than outside-in. This helps anchor the outermost strand a little better as the overhang is built. This is pretty minor though. </p>\n'}]
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