<p>I have an Anet A8 printer for about 4 months, set up pretty well (or so I thought) and printing a number of models pretty well. I made a large 3" x 6" box with a sliding lid yesterday and when it was done there was a gap on one side when the lid was slid on. I checked the parts and it turns out they are not square - which means the X and Y axes are not square to each other.</p>

<p>I'm wondering how to adjust this - I'm thinking that extending the distance between the back of the frame and the front by adjusting the threaded rods that separate them to a wider distance on the side where the angle is obtuse. Obviously one of the first things I'll check is that the distance between the front and back is the same (I can't imagine why I never checked that before, come to think of it).</p>

<p>Does this sound like a sound plan?</p>

[{'answer_id': 5722, 'author': 'profesor79', 'author_id': 9730, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9730', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>It is hard to determine the exact source of the problem as there are few possibilities (I am assuming that you have a single nozzle and only one filament in use):</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li><p>One of the hardest issues for me to get on my printer was fact that my auto-level sensor was mounted about 0.5mm too high - so please check that as this will give you a bit higher Z than expected.</p></li>\n<li><p>Printing speed matters  - for some prints I was slowing my printer to 20% of nominal speed to get adhesion</p></li>\n<li><p>a hair-spray layer or a masking tape on the bed could help with getting the grip</p></li>\n<li><p>also you could play with nozzle temperature de/increasing by 5 degrees and see how it is going</p></li>\n</ol>\n'}, {'answer_id': 5723, 'author': 'PR90', 'author_id': 10340, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10340', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Increase the extrusion width for the first layer. This will ensure that more plastic is extruded and will help with adhesion tremendously. Check our this link for more information: <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#print-not-sticking-to-the-bed</a>.</p>\n\n<p>The prusa i3 mk2s provides an option to "live adjust" the Z height during a print. You can try raising/lowering your nozzle with this feature to see which way it will adhere better, and then reset the Z to that value once you are satisfied with the adhesion and quality.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 5781, 'author': 'gbe', 'author_id': 9719, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/9719', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p><strong>Quick, low-tech solution:</strong></p>\n\n<p>There might be several issues in your question, but in relation to bed adhesion, I'll share one of the most useful tips I wish someone had told me when I started out: <em>Spread some glue-stick over the area to be printed</em>.</p>\n\n<p>I used ordinary school/craft glue stick (which I stole from my daughter's school pencil case) - the kind for gluing paper. I use a purple one, so it's easy to see and easy to clean up. I apply a little glue then smear it around with a wet finger to make it a bit uniform.</p>\n\n<p>I have a heated bed (FlashForge Creator Pro) and have used this little trick with a range of filaments. In almost every case, it helps adhesion enormously. Parts and supports stick like mad! But they still come off easily enough the usual way. It is a weak glue, so it won't lock the part to the bed. Once the part is off, the purple glue is visible when wet, so it is dead easy to clean up the part and the bed in a minute or two.</p>\n\n<p>This trick is so easy that it is worth trying first for any adhesion issues, before digging deeper.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 8174, 'author': 'Radiovan', 'author_id': 14451, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14451', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I've seen this on my Prusa clone. It looks to me like the nozzle is a bit too close to the bed so not enough plastic is being extruded. I got a perfect PLA print at 215&nbsp;&deg;C and 0.2&nbsp;mm for the first layer and 210&nbsp;&deg;C with 0.15&nbsp;mm for the rest. When I tried 215&nbsp;&deg;C/0.3&nbsp;mm first layer and 210&nbsp;&deg;C/0.2&nbsp;mm on a large print I got poor adhesion and a warped corner. I used the same Z height offset.\nI didn't get a picture but it looks like the opposite problem to yours; not enough squish down on the first layer. I print with hairspray directly on aluminum and usually get great results. I'm going to retry with a more negative offset and will post pictures of the results.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5724', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10351/']