<p><strong>Backstory:</strong> Like <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=build+plate+sticking">quite a lot of people here</a>, I'm having problems with parts adhering to the build plate of a resin printer.  I've tried everything that I can think of: cleaning &amp; re-sanding the buildplate at 80 grit, levelling the plate with and without a sheet of paper between the plate and LCD, warm resin, and silicone spray on the FEP.</p>
<hr />
<p>In <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6220">the answer</a> to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/4353">this question</a>, <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11171/michael-wooten">Michael Wooten</a> says:</p>
<blockquote>
<p><strong>PRO TIP to improve bed adhesion</strong>: apply a thin layer of resin to the build platform before you start to print. I have not any failed prints after I started coating the plate with resin.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I was wondering if there was any clarification on this layer of resin:</p>
<ul>
<li>Should it be cured, partially cured, or left alone?</li>
<li>How thick should it be?</li>
</ul>
<p>Also, is there any known methodology?  If I paint some resin onto the build plate and cure with a UV lamp, I worry that the layer won't be particularly flat.  I thought about using the &quot;cleaning&quot; function on the printer to shine UV light through, but it would also cure area between the edge of the build plate and the tank.</p>
<p>Any tips on this exact method of making prints stick to the plate would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<hr />
<p><strong>Update:</strong></p>
<p>I tried again, and it still didn't work.</p>
<p>I left a thin film of resin on the build plate from the previous failed print, and cured it for a minute or two until it felt tacky.  The resin was still warm from last print, so I ran again (after removing the failed pancakes of course) and after a few hours I could see that nothing had printed this time either.  The irritating bit is that the pancakes slide off the FEP pretty easily!</p>

[{'answer_id': 18255, 'author': 'Trish', 'author_id': 8884, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>The whole reason to pre-coat the plate with <strong>liquid</strong> resin is to ensure, that no air bubbles are left under it and prevent contact of the plate to the resin.</p>\n<p>A layer of cured resin throws off your 0.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 18275, 'author': 'Aaargh Zombies', 'author_id': 29097, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/29097', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>According to Uncle Jessy (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SWGpY3LlX0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">see Youtube channel</a>), you simply need to pour some liquid resin over the build plate and then leave it for a couple of minutes for the worst to drip off. No</p>\n<p>He also recommends that the resin should be kept at a warm room temperature and that the bottle be thoroughly shaken before pouring it onto the build plate or into the resin vat.</p>\n<p>He also recommends that resin should not be left to sit in the vat for more than a couple of days as it can settle and separate.</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/18252', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31110/']