<p>Here is the X-axis of the P3Steel:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuYOq.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuYOq.jpg" alt="X-axis arm of P3Steel" /></a></p>
<p>The X-axis idler end of a P3Steel printer, employs an 8 mm diameter rod for the axle on which a 608zz bearing is mounted for the GT2 belt. This 8 mm rod is approximately 20 - 24 mm in length, with grooves at either end, for circlips.</p>
<p>A photo of the assembled idler, with the rod and circlips highlighted:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJ06.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJ06.jpg" alt="X-axis idler end" /></a></p>
<p>My question is: Does this part need to be custom made?</p>
<p>The short rod didn't come with the frame kit that I purchased (nor was it listed in the parts list, or shown in the photo of the parts - so it not as if it was omitted with my order). I have searched on eBay for it, using various search terms, and I am unable to find one. As I was not trained in mechanical engineering, I am not sure if this part has a special name, or is it just called a &quot;smooth rod, with grooved ends&quot;? I have also done a fair amount of googling, and although I have found some people who have constructed this particular frame, no one makes mention of this axle, nor any difficulties in sourcing it.</p>
<p>I have contacted the supplier of the frame, <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v4-0-RODS-/182361720200?" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS</a>, and I am awaiting a reply.</p>
<p>This missing part is holding up my build progress - I already have the 608zz bearing and circlips.</p>
<hr />
<h3>Additional images</h3>
<p>This image shows the &quot;exploded view&quot; and the 8mm rod can be clearly seen:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPjQR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPjQR.jpg" alt="Exploded view of the parts of X-axis idler" /></a></p>
<p>Here are images of the assembled idler, showing the bearing inside -</p>
<p>Front view:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c63fV.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/c63fV.jpg" alt="Front view" /></a></p>
<p>Side view:</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nggu.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nggu.jpg" alt="Side view" /></a></p>
<p>This images are a little blurry, as they are screen shots taken from the video, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDtDiW0kTSc" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I3 Steel CORDOBESA con extrusor/with extruder</a>.</p>

[{'answer_id': 3333, 'author': 'StarWind0', 'author_id': 2146, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2146', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Oh fascinating. It took me a while to figure out what exactly that is. It is a smooth rod used as the idler for the X belt. </p>\n\n<p>What I would do is get a bearing / wheel. Take a thicker screw, nut and washer. Put the idler / bearing / wheel into the slot, then fit the screw / nut. Should work without any issue!</p>\n\n<p>That said they likely had some sort of special fitting etc. Doesn\'t matter so long as the belt can move without wearing. </p>\n\n<p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:157303" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This Thingiverse</a> does exactly what I am thinking.</p>\n\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7BkI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/x7BkI.jpg" alt="bolt example"></a></p>\n\n<p>As you have a low profile need due to the interesting design I came across <a href="https://www.belmetric.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=4030&amp;cPath=3_569_718&amp;gclid=CM6Pifm5rtECFVK5wAodMq8HLg&amp;zenid=9o5khnodisqvndhvoejl6b6t40" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a>. a TNF8 - Nut Sert - Flanged/Ribbed.\n<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z4gAg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z4gAg.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>\n\n<p>Or you may just need a standard low profile nut. Not like you need it to do more than hold it in..\n<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/szyvM.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/szyvM.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 3413, 'author': 'Greenonline', 'author_id': 4762, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>I have finally received a reply from my supplier, which backs up StarWind's answer:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>I did not use a rod with grooves for retaining rings.</p>\n<p>I used bolts and nuts with a thin head.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>Doesn't really answer my question though, as I really rather hanker after the 8 mm smooth rod with the circlip grooves.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 3416, 'author': 'KalleMP', 'author_id': 5663, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5663', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>You could look up a <a href="https://www.pivotpins.com/products/bc-clevis-pins-with-grooves.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Clevis pin</a> with one groove.<br>\nYou could look up a <a href="http://technifast.co.uk/clevis-pins" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Clevis pin</a> with a hole for a split pin.<br>\nPerhaps a <a href="https://www.ondrives.com/303-stainless-steel-shoulder-screws#/pageSize=25&amp;orderBy=5&amp;pageNumber=3" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Shoulder screw</a> with a ground shank and a low profile head.<br>\nUse a plain rod with <a href="http://www.bakfin.com/starlock/metric-capped-roundshaft.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Dome caps</a> if you will not need to remove often.<br>\nIf available an internal threaded <a href="https://www.unicorpinc.com/metric-standoffs.htm" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Standoff</a> would work.<br>\nA <a href="https://www.ondrives.com/carbon-steel-slotted-spring-pins" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Slotted spring pin</a> may work if the hole dimensions are suitable.    </p>\n\n<p><strong>EDIT:</strong><br>\nYou could also cut the grooves yourself pretty easily.  Cut a section of 8mm rod to length and mount it into a drill chuck so it stick out 2-3mm 1/8". Hold a hacksaw at the edge of the chuck and run the drill for a minute with gentle pressure, try hacksaw on other side or reverse direction if nothing is happening.<br>\nA hardened rod will cut better with a Dremel type cut-off disk</p>\n\n<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzlGw.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fzlGw.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3332', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762/']