<p>Bought a new printer. When this problem has happened anywhere from the third to the twentieth layer up. An excess of filament suddenly exits the nozzle, often pulling the print from the bed when the nozzle moves away. The only advice I've found so far is that the nozzle or hotend may have damage, but I didn't find any when removing them to examine them. I've tried a few different ranges of settings. Guidance would be appreciated.</p>
<p>I'm using a Creality Ender 3 with out-of-the-box equipment and slicing with the most recent Creality Print version. Settings are default (bed: 70 °C and hot end: 200 °C).</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yjEx.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4yjEx.jpg" alt="an unfortunate excess of filament" /></a></p>
<p>Here's what I get if I set everything to default, switch filament spool, and use a .gcode file that was sent in-box from the manufacturer. There was not really ever anything printed, since the blob was stuck to the nozzle and was dragged around in three dimensions until I stopped the printer.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucg06.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucg06.jpg" alt="an even more unfortunate excess of filament" /></a></p>

[{'answer_id': 19327, 'author': 'R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE', 'author_id': 11157, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>If you just cared about impact resistance of the housing itself, the clear choice would be TPU, which would be basically indestructible. However, the housing is there to protect what's inside - not only from impact, but from stresses (e.g. bending) that could break it. This means you need a material that both provides rigidity and avoids breaking easily itself.</p>\n<p>If you were doing an old (90s or earlier) style laptop case that's a tank, I'd actually say yeah, go with TPU 95A or higher (98A or so if you could get it) and add some reinforcement ribs/stiffeners. This stuff can be quite rigid at 100% infill, and it will hold up fine to heat, abrasion, even most chemicals. But if this is a modern slim style case, a small amount of material needs to provide a lot of rigidity and that's not going to work.</p>\n<p>PLA actually fares really well here in some ways - it's one of the most rigid printable materials, and very easy to get good bonding. If you check for example CNC Kitchen's strength tests, you'll find plain PLA usually coming out on top of most comparisons. However, PLA doesn't handle heat well, which might rule it out.</p>\n<p>ASA, ABS, or PC is probably your best bet, but I don't have any experience with them so I'll leave the part about them as something for another answerer to write.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 19330, 'author': 'Kilisi', 'author_id': 31811, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/31811', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': "<p>For casings I use a combination of TPU and PETG or PLA. PETG shell gives it rigidity and TPU gives it a bit of impact protection. So corners and inside layers of TPU within a hard PETG or PLA shell (shell has no corners).</p>\n<p>I haven't had a problem with either but obviously PLA won't withstand heat very well, so it depends on environment.</p>\n<p>For a laptop case you'd maybe want to do it the other way around with the outside shell of TPU and inside layers of PETG for rigidity.</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/19331', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/34019/']