<p>I need help with finding what properties or designs I need to look for. I know that I will need these characteristics to work with the material of my choice:  </p>

<ul>
<li>Can reach 300&nbsp;°C or up</li>
<li>Can handle nozzle size larger than 1&nbsp;mm</li>
<li>Can be used with polycarbonate filament</li>
</ul>

<p>I plan to use it in a custom RAMPS 1.4 3D printer running the Marlin firmware, in case this changes something. </p>

[{'answer_id': 6812, 'author': 'Greenonline', 'author_id': 4762, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>By  interpreting your question as <em>&quot;Can most hotends print polycarbonate at 300°C+?&quot;</em>, and taking into consideration the answers to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4209/can-cheap-hotend-parts-sourced-from-china-actually-produce-good-prints">Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?</a><sup>1</sup>, then it would seem to be safe to assume<sup>2</sup> that most hotends can, given a few adjustments or considerations:</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use of a PT100<sup>3</sup> or thermocouple, en lieu of a thermistor</li>\n<li>Use of PTFE tubing</li>\n</ul>\n<p>Taken directly from <a href="https://e3d-online.com/v6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">E3D\'s V6 product info</a>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>The V6 can comfortably reach 285°C with the supplied thermistor. By swapping a thermistor for a thermocouple (may require additional electronics) or PT100 you can reach over 400°C. This not only allows you to print extremely high temperature materials like Polycarbonate and Nylons but also eliminates HotEnd meltdown failures associated with PEEK/PTFE designs. The PTFE filament guide inside the V6 HotEnd is never subjected to high temperatures, so there is no risk of damage through overheating.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<hr />\n<h3>Footnotes</h3>\n<p><sup>1</sup> The materials used by cheaper clones of the higher quality, more expensive, branded hotends are <em>probably</em> the same as those used in the branded hotends, and indeed are probably produced using the same pirated patterns/molds/casts, but with less care and quality involved. They can even be produced in <em>the same factory</em>, but are items that have failed the QA tests, and as such are not deemed to be <em>brandable</em>.</p>\n<p><sup>2</sup> Although, to paraphrase a quote from a movie: Assumptions can be considered to be the mother of all <em>disasters</em>.</p>\n<p><sup>3</sup> A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistance_thermometer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Resistance Temperature Detector</a>) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. From this manufacturer\'s <a href="https://www.processparameters.co.uk/platinum-resistance-thermometers-pt100-pt1000/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">website</a>:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>A Pt100 or Pt1000 is a Platinum RTD (Resistance Temperature Detector) with a resistance of 100 ohms at 0°C which changes with temperature. They are suitable for applications in the temperature range of -200°C to 600°C but are more commonly used in the range -50°C to +250°C. These temperature sensors are reliable and can offer a higher degree of accuracy.</p>\n</blockquote>\n'}, {'answer_id': 6813, 'author': 'Sean Houlihane', 'author_id': 4927, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4927', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Handling a 1mm nozzle implies a desire to reduce the overall print time (otherwise why use a large nozzle), so you will need to consider not only the maximum operating temperature but also the rate at which plastic can be melted. (See also <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/572">this question</a> and one on overheating to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3350">compensate</a>)</p>\n\n<p>Using 1.75mm filament is a good start, this has a better surface area to volume ratio, but you\'re likely to see issues with both the heater cartridge power (so a 40W heater is probably going to help), but also the size of the melt zone and the thermal mass of the heater block.</p>\n\n<p>As you need to push a reasonably large amount of heat from the cartridge to the filament, it is important to minimise the thermal resistance - so using a steel nozzle would be a disadvantage here (but since polycarbonate is abrasive, you will need to consider wear resistance as part of your trade-offs). You can get longer nozzles and larger heat blocks designed to work better in high flow applications.</p>\n\n<p>Also remember that your extruder needs to work 6 times faster to achieve the same linear speed compared to a 0.4mm nozzle (with at least as much pressure), so this also might need to be upgraded (or driven a little harder).</p>\n\n<p>If you can however tolerate a somewhat slower print speed, you might not <a href="https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/why-3d-print-with-polycarbonate-how-to-get-best-results" rel="nofollow noreferrer">need to reach 300°C </a> to print PC.</p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6806', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12830/']