<p>Ender3 v2, SIENOC PETG which advises temperature of 230-250 °C on the box. I'm printing on top of cleaned blue tape, using a temperature of 230 °C for the nozzle and 80 °C for the bed.</p>
<p>I've had all sorts of trouble getting first layer to stick but finally managed it. However the thin end of this hook has now warped and the other end is too.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.imgur.com/AfdQyGk.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AfdQyGk.jpg" alt="Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)" title="Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)" /></a></p>
<p>Looking at the image above, you can see it's much thinner at that end. Should I try a lower nozzle temperature? Or bed? Or both?</p>
<p>The fans are at 50 % (set in Cura), should I have left them on 100 %?</p>
<hr />
<p>I have to mention that the tape has been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. I can print PLA no problem direct to the bed but am having so much trouble with PETG - rather than warping this could actually be adhesion problems.
I've tried a higher initial layer (0.3 mm vs 0.2 mm), 0.1 mm Z offset, gapped to 1 sheet of paper as per PLA, then 2 sheets - I've done that 50 mm in on each corner and then checked it in the middle of the bed too. Initial layer is at 10 mm/s and then to 40 mm/s</p>
<p>As you can see in the picture the brim looks rather flattened, but if I give more gap (e.g. 3 sheets) it doesn't even stick at all.</p>
<p>I have managed to print a benchy after maybe 6 attempts, but this was luck and had really poor adhesion, a gentle tap with my finger dislodged it. The actual print was fine.</p>
<p>Tempted to try another PETG but wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious - at the moment I can't even print the brim again because it won't stick.</p>
<p>I'm really confused because a lot of I read suggests PETG sticks really well but I've having the exact opposite experience.</p>

[{'answer_id': 14163, 'author': 'TomTom', 'author_id': 21959, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/21959', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>It depends how <em>deep</em> it goes. If the teflon goes into the hotend then yes, it will limit the temperature end.</p>\n<p>But: the teflon may just be something that ends <em>somewhere</em> in the cold side and sticks out so there is something to put into the extruder or higher up into the connector.</p>\n<p>I cam currently setting up a Slice Mosquito for a Bondtech DDX. The Mosquito is full metal, but there is a (actually printed nylon) adapter for the DDS. In this adapter you put a teflon/capricorn tube, that ALSO sticks out only around 5\xa0mm. Here is the point though: it never goes into the even cold side and is only there so the connection to the extruder on top has a width limitation.</p>\n<p>So, it really depends how <em>long</em> this tube is (and no-one here will know because a v6 <em>clone</em> may be different internally from the original). I would suggest pulling it out (it should move out easily) and then seeing how deep it goes. As long as it stays on the cold side before the heatbreak, it never gets in touch with anything that is hot.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 14166, 'author': 'Trish', 'author_id': 8884, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/8884', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>There are many types of <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10998/e3d-v6-original-vs-clone/11012#11012">heatbreak clones</a>. In cour case, your clone effectively turns your hotend into an e3d Lite6, not an all-metal e3d v6. To function properly, the PTFE liner needs to butt against the nozzle or you will quickly develop leak and clog issues.</p>\n<p>This means, handle it like a Lite6, which has a max of 245\xa0°C listed, but under usual operation should not exceed 230\xa0°C.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 14170, 'author': 'user77232', 'author_id': 12857, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/12857', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Long story short, you can print Nylon with a Teflon tube. I've done it. P.S. The nylon absorbs water like nothing you've ever seen. Even after the part is printed, it absorbs water, and expands!</p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14167', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/23108/']