<p>I configured Marlin 1.1.3 for auto-leveling with a fix mounted sensor connected to the Z end-stop pin.</p>

<p>I have the following settings in my config:</p>

<pre><code>#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 25  
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 20  
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0   // Z offset: -below +above  [the nozzle]

#define Z_CLEARANCE_DEPLOY_PROBE   10 // Z Clearance for Deploy/Stow
#define Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES  5 // Z Clearance between probe points

#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR

#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 7
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X

// The Z probe minimum outer margin (to validate G29 parameters).
#define MIN_PROBE_EDGE 10

// Set the boundaries for probing (where the probe can reach).
#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 25
#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 150
#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30
#define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 180
</code></pre>

<p>I enter <code>M111 S38</code> to enable LEVELING+INFO+ERROR debugging.
Then I enter <code>G28</code> to home all axes and then enter <code>G29</code> to start auto-leveling.</p>

<p>The auto-leveling starts successfully and after finishing I see the scan grid in console:</p>

<pre><code>12:41:35.983 : Bilinear Leveling Grid:
12:41:35.983 : 0      1      2      3      4      5      6
12:41:35.983 : 0 -3.127 -3.405 -3.405 -3.292 -3.595 -3.487 -3.537
12:41:35.983 : 1 -3.110 -3.367 -3.337 -3.220 -3.470 -3.350 -3.365
12:41:35.983 : 2 -3.138 -3.367 -3.330 -3.215 -3.442 -3.345 -3.385
12:41:35.984 : 3 -3.013 -3.225 -3.182 -3.047 -3.225 -3.132 -3.150
12:41:35.984 : 4 -2.970 -3.165 -3.097 -2.972 -3.160 -3.045 -3.065
12:41:35.984 : 5 -2.875 -3.075 -3.005 -2.847 -2.990 -2.872 -2.875
12:41:35.984 : 6 -2.680 -2.845 -2.755 -2.615 -2.753 -2.617 -2.622
12:41:35.985 : G29 uncorrected Z:10.00
12:41:35.985 : corrected Z:12.85
12:41:35.985 : &lt;&lt;&lt; gcode_G29
12:41:35.985 : X:120.00 Y:160.00 Z:12.85 E:0.00 Count X:9600 Y:12800 Z:4000
12:41:35.985 : current_position=(120.00, 160.00, 12.85) : sync_plan_position
</code></pre>

<p>So the auto-leveling scanning seems to be successful.</p>

<p>Here is a visual of the leveling grid (but upside down to make it easier to view):</p>

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOas7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Inverted visual of the leveling grid"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TOas7.jpg" alt="Inverted visual of the leveling grid" title="Inverted visual of the leveling grid"></a></p>

<p>Naturally I <strong>DO NOT</strong> enter <code>G28</code> after the scanning. </p>

<p>I enter <code>G0 Z1</code> to down nozzle almost to table. But when I enter for example <code>G0 X25 Y30</code> and look at level and then I enter <code>G0 X150 Y150</code> I see the big difference between nozzle levels relatively to table. So it seems that height compensation does not work. I expect that Z axis would lift up or down depending on auto-leveling results but Z motor do not work when I move X/Y. </p>

<p>By the way I tried 3 point autoleveling. It was pretty rough but Z axis corrected it's level when I moved axes using <code>G0</code> commands.
And to avoid questions "why my table is inclined so much?" I deliberately inclined the table to be sure that auto leveling works. By the way, I tried different <code>Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER</code> so the current 0 setting is not actual but situation is the same with any value of this option.</p>

<p>What I am doing wrong?</p>

[{'answer_id': 4260, 'author': 'ON5MF Jurgen', 'author_id': 6812, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/6812', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>One of the applications of 3d printing with wax is when making jewellery using the lost-wax casting process.\nI don't know if there are 'cheap' 3d printers for wax. One brand of 3d printers for wax is Solid-Scape.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 4261, 'author': 'Davo', 'author_id': 4922, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4922', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Yes, with the proper equipment.</p>\n\n<p>Printing wax filament (at 51 seconds): <a href="https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s" rel="noreferrer">https://youtu.be/tibkVZB_n9c?t=51s</a></p>\n\n<p>There are also options for melting wax, filling a heated reservoir head, and printing with that. I recommend doing this with a cold ambient temperature, so that the wax solidifies quickly. There\'s no point in just printing a puddle. :)</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4268, 'author': 'morevitamins', 'author_id': 7420, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7420', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Should be easy to do it in low temperatures, also check for moldlay filament.</p>\n\n<p>Wax is indeed useful for lost-wax casting method.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 4269, 'author': 'iFreilicht', 'author_id': 7540, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7540', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Yes, you can. But no, you don\'t need to make your own filament for it, there is one called <a href="http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52" rel="noreferrer">Print2Cast</a> that you can buy for about 50$/kg.</p>\n\n<p>This filament has the following recommended slicing settings:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><strong>Extrusion temperature:</strong> 140°C-150°C</li>\n<li><strong>Bed temperature:</strong> 80°-90°C</li>\n<li><strong>Shells:</strong> 2-3 (for most models)</li>\n<li><strong>Print speed:</strong> 20 to 70mm/s</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>There are, however, a few more things to look out for when printing with wax, as it is very soft.</p>\n\n<p>The most important issue is the grip of the extruder wheel. See if other people have used your printer/extruder with flexible filaments. If they were successful in doing that, there\'s a high chance a wax print will succeed as well.</p>\n\n<p>Bed adhesion might also be an issue. <a href="http://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52" rel="noreferrer">MachinableWax.com</a> recommend 6 coats of hair spray on a glass bed, letting each of them dry before adding the next.</p>\n\n<p>Cooling is also important, as with many filaments. You\'ll probably have to experiment with that a little as either too much or too little can ruin your print.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 8262, 'author': 'Todd heinz', 'author_id': 14522, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/14522', 'pm_score': 0, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>Just make a silicone mold of any of your prints and pour you wax in the silicone,you silicone putty is pretty cheap so is wax ,no need to break the bank as printers have become less expensive and can do a pretty good job </p>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4263', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7425/']