<p>I'm likely to need to print some parts from TPU (Shore 95A or harder) in the near future.  I have everything I need to do a direct drive conversion using the original extruder on a bracket above the hot end -- but for most of my printing (PLA and PETG), this setup isn't required or even optimal, because of the extra moving mass on the X carriage.</p>
<p>It looks as if, once I have the bracket installed the first time, I can move the extruder (including adding/removing a wire extension and switching between full length Bowden tube and short coupler tube) in less than an hour -- in addition to the time I'd need to clear one material from the hot end before loading the other, of course.  Is it practical at all to swap the extruder back and forth like this, on the assumption that I'll want/need to print TPU parts from time to time (I'll want softer material, too, since some of what I want TPU capability for is gaskets).</p>
<p>Obviously, if I needed to print TPU alongside PLA on a regular basis, I might be ahead to have a second printer, but space considerations, more than money, work against that.</p>
<p>Am I missing something on the effort needed to swap the extruder position back and forth (suggesting I should stick with direct drive and pursue firmware and tuning solutions to correct the accompanying problems with faster printing), or should I plan to do this as needed?</p>

[{'answer_id': 17847, 'author': 'FarO', 'author_id': 2338, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2338', 'pm_score': 1, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>It depends on the level of automation you are willing to implement.</p>\n<p>The Bowden extruder, including the motor, from the Ender 3 which I think you have (but in general, any Bowden extruder) does not need to be moved at all, since it's not on the printing head. You just need to disconnect the Bowden from the hot end and clip it somewhere safe.</p>\n<p>The direct drive extruder, if you have a supporting plate which makes it as a single part, can be disconnected with a couple of screws and hanged somewhere nearby.</p>\n<p>Depending on the knowledge of electronics you could set up a very cheap relay array (4 relays) all controlled by a single GPIO pin of your motherboard, so that you can switch the motor with a GCODE command. The relay would have the COM going to the stepper driver, the NO connected to the direct drive motor, the NC to the Bowden motor.</p>\n<p>Write GCODE macros to change the current, linear advance, steps/mm settings depending on the activation of the relay board (or, even better, depending on the filament).</p>\n<p>However, if money is not an issue, I would consider an Orbiter or a Sherpa mini extruder, which is direct drive but with 120 gram weight (including motor, not including hot end) can be used all the time. You are likely not going to push the X acceleration to the very very maximum you can, so you get direct drive at no performance cost.</p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 17851, 'author': '0scar', 'author_id': 5740, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/5740', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>With some engineering, you could consider creating a tool dock version where you can easily screw off the Bowden driven hotend and screw on the direct driven hotend. You'll only need to have an extension stepper cable to connect the direct drive stepper and pluggable hotend heater and thermistor connections.</p>\n<p>E.g. for the Ender printers, there are Voron Afterburner tool heads that are Bowden driven or direct driven (Clockwork or Galileo mods) available. These could be switched very easily, you do need to figure something out to plug the heater cartridge and thermistor.</p>\n<hr />\n<p><em>I'm doing something similar to my Hypercube Evolution where I am creating a Bowden driven 2.85\xa0mm and a 1.75\xa0mm direct driven tool head.</em></p>\n"}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/17838', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/28508/']