<p>So, I'm having this problem where almost anything I print with a section(s) that is not directly connected to something below it breaks when I try to pull the small filaments meant to hold it up during printing off. For example, I 3D-printed a Rayquaza(<a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/object/rayquaza-23624" rel="noreferrer">this one</a>) from Pokemon for my little brother, and as I was carefully pulling the filament from under the mouth, the whole head just snapped off. Does someone have a recommendation as to a way to get the small filament off without breaking the object? Would a solution just be to print it bigger and see if it holds up better, or is there something else I can do? Thanks.</p>

[{'answer_id': 2811, 'author': 'fred_dot_u', 'author_id': 854, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854', 'pm_score': 3, 'selected': True, 'text': '<p>The small filaments you remove that hold the parts up are called supports. The one model I located on Thingiverse clearly requires a number of supports, as the model is not easily designed for 3d printing with FDM printers. It would be better printed with SLS, but that\'s not the focus of your question.</p>\n\n<p>You don\'t specify how large you printed the model, but certainly a scaled-up version will be stronger at the weak points. You will want to use sharp non-shearing cutters to clear away as much of the supports as possible, without torquing on the model.</p>\n\n<p>Another option which also reduces the forces on the model body is to use a soldering iron to smooth and clear/cut the supports. If you are able to use cutters and not damage the model, the soldering iron can remove and flatten the remnants of those supports.</p>\n\n<p>Please note that if your careful work has resulted in a model that snaps to pieces, your little brother will soon destroy the successfully cleaned up model just as easily.</p>\n\n<p>If you have skill with 3d modeling software (Meshmixer and Blender come to mind for such organic models), you can add insignificant items to the model to provide functional support. Would the Rayquaza look fiercer if you 3d printed a cage as an integrated part of the model, using the bars of the cage to provide support?</p>\n\n<p>I successfully printed a model that was created by an artist unfamiliar with 3d printing restrictions. The support material was wash-away PVA. I provided the model to the "owner" who washed away the support material and snapped the legs in two. It\'s sometimes impossible to solve poor designs. You have a good chance if you build a cage for this one.</p>\n'}, {'answer_id': 2812, 'author': 'Eric Kelly', 'author_id': 4305, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4305', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': "<p>Depends how small your printing, if it's the one i see on thingiverse then it don't see why it would break unless:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>it's super small</li>\n<li>too many or strong support that's hard to pull off?</li>\n<li>Not calibrated for the filament - eg temperature too low or too much fan and the layer's aren't properly bonding.  </li>\n<li>Too much moisture in the filament making it weak</li>\n<li>Needs more infill at the weak spots?  (ex. if the neck is thin then infill other than 50-100 is a good idea if you can control that in your slicer).</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>i would start with the temps/adjusting settings.  really hard to say without a reference photo. </p>\n\n<p>However, i would try a stronger material for toys such as PETG either way.  from experience they'll just break easily anyway from the abuse kids put them through.  PETG has good layer bonding and easy to print, except it's terrible at bridging.  Supports will most likely need to be cliped off with side cutters but it's not a huge deal.  </p>\n"}, {'answer_id': 2819, 'author': 'Barafu Albino', 'author_id': 4345, 'author_profile': 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4345', 'pm_score': 2, 'selected': False, 'text': '<p>To increase the strength of small parts I do:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Increase the nozzle size to layer height ratio. While 2 is the most popular choice (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) the science behind the process really recommends around 4 (0.7 nozzle for 0.2 layer).</li>\n<li>Increase the number of outer shells. I made dragons with great wings with 4 shells and no infill. </li>\n<li>Typical things: raise temp, reduce speed. </li>\n</ul>\n'}]
['https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2810', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com', 'https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4298/']