PostgreSQL - triggers to fire only on replicated db Is it possible to fire triggers only on a read-only Postgres replicated database?

I want triggers to fire only on the replicated database - not on the master (to avoid load). This is to track - say - all updates/deletes.

Would enabling replica trigger be the way to go?
On the primary/master, the triggers remain disabled, but in the replicated db, we can have the triggers fired? 

The wal2json plugin is an option, but triggers seem a safer bet.
You can do that with logical replication, but not with streaming (physical) replication, because in the latter case the standby server is read-only.

For logical replication, you have to define the trigger as replica trigger:

CREATE TRIGGER tgname ... ON TABLE atable ...;
ALTER atable ENABLE REPLICA TRIGGER tgname;