Readers will be familiar with how excited I was about trying Stoffa - the made-to-measure company run by ex-Isaia man Agyesh Madan - now he is doing trunk shows in London.
Agyesh's aesthetic is beautiful, simple and modern, with jackets and trousers that all work well together and feel contemporary yet subtle.
Perfect for a man that cares about elegance but wants something other than tailoring.
For more on the Stoffa range, and particularly colour combinations, see my previous post here.
The purpose of this post, then, is to review the navy-suede jacket I bought from Agyesh on his first visit.
As he brings a large range of models, I was already familiar with the quality of the lambskin suede (very good), of the hardware (nice, but modern not traditional) and the finishing (also very good).
The questions, therefore, were really just how good the fit was on the jacket I received, and my observations on wearing the style.
On fit, the jacket was perfect. Close but not tight on the shoulders, a nice line through the waist, good length on the hips, and sleeves perfect also.
When something is perfect like this, my feeling is almost of calm, rather than excitement. Relief, perhaps, that the piece I was looking forward to doesn't have any issues, won't annoy me, won't have to go back for changes.
It feels, perhaps most strongly, that this is how made-to-order garments should be.
It's not bespoke, it's not a blank canvas, so the small changes we are making should be executed perfectly.
It was also useful to hear Agyesh's experiences around fit, and therefore what he recommends. The shoulders are likely to give a little, for example, being soft suede and put under a certain amount of pressure. But the waist is unlikely to.
Finally, this is not the end of the fit process. Agyesh positively encourages people to come back in a few months' time and look at the fit all over again.
There are a couple of make points on the make that we discussed.
One is the lining, which is a fine cotton in both the body and arms. This is wonderfully comfortable over a T-shirt, but is difficult to get on over a shirt.
Agyesh said they had looked at many different, silkier options (which would mostly be synthetics) but didn't have anything they really liked aesthetically, would be just as comfortable, and would wear well.
I see his point, and it certainly suits the polo shirts he often wears his with; but personally I would go for a silk lining, or only silk in the sleeves.
The other point was the hardware, which is a brushed, grey metal. This feels more modern than most aviators and bomber jackets we cover here on Permanent Style, and may also be more to the taste of many guys. But if I could choose I would probably prefer brass.
There were far more manufacturing points that I absolutely love, however.
One is the collar, which is oversized, has a properly collar stand, and a reinforced seam in the back.
These combine to create a collar which stays up, yet folds elegantly down on the points in the front.
It's a small thing, but this rolled finish means you appreciate the softness of the suede every time you put your hands in the tops.
My last thought on the style - and one that will likely evolve over time - is whether the flight-jacket cut suits someone of my build.
The cut is relatively short, close on the shoulders, and adds bulk to the waist with the oversized, bellows-style pockets.
This has the effect of making the waist look bigger and the shoulders smaller - the opposite proportions of tailoring.
Even a traditional blouson is more similar to tailoring, as it sits tight and high on the waist, before ballooning in the chest and upper body.
I think the Stoffa flight-jacket cut works well on Agyesh, and other friends I've seen that are shorter. But I'm slightly unsure of it on me.
However, the double zip on the jacket does allow one to play with these proportions: creating a single-point waist as a jacket would have, or a long line; changing the length of that line and moving it up or down the body.
So there are plenty of possibilities there.
Oh, and I'd also highly recommend navy as a colour for a suede jacket.
Tan and dark-brown are far more common, but in an age when men might wear something like this to the office, navy is smarter and almost as versatile.
Stoffa will be back in London in around five weeks. Keep an eye on the Trunk Shows page for details.
The jacket cost $1500. It would be less in cotton or linen (which both now come with half linings).
Photos by Karl-Edwin Guerre of Guerrisms.
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Any particular reasons you went for this style over the asymmetric version?
I considered it would be simpler, more classic and therefore more suitable to other stuff I wear.
When it comes to the fit, in the 6th picture, sleeves seems to me a bit too short; don’t you think?
I think this is perfect for that Luca, yes. You can also go for the asymmetic jacket (more biker style) if you’re not sure about the style of this one.
That last image is a bit misleading on sleeve length – it is riding up a bit. It’s also the length I wanted, as I would pretty much always have something long-sleeved underneath. But you could have any length you wanted.
Simon, if you were considering buying a new overcoat to be your main winter coat, for wear both over both tailoring during the week and knitwear at the weekend, would you go for the asymmetric coat? Or would you aim to get something made bespoke (perhaps something like your loden Vergallo)? Thanks for your help.
If I could choose either, I’d always go bespoke with tailoring. The benefits of bespoke in terms of 3D fit, and structure with the hand-padded chest, are too large.
what kind of structure is in the Stoffa overcoat in Wool Simon? There is some sort of canvas or just nothing there at all?
I have to say I’m more than happy with mine. For me it’s the proportions of the collar and pockets that really set this jacket apart from others. Their trousers are definitely worth a try too, especially when you consider the price.
Simon, is the brown jacket at top of page also stoffa? Is this a trial jacket?
You mentioned Agyesh encourages people to return after a few months to look at fit. If there’s an issue would they adjust the jacket back in the factory? How much in terms of adjustment can be made in a leather jacket?
How much are similar jackets in cotton or linen?
Yes they would adjust there. There is always some inlay left, but it’s still only minor adjustments. And taking things in is a lot easier than letting them out with leather, as it can mark.
I’ll confirm cotton and linen prices.
Encouraged by the latest „best brands“ votes and their comments, I am looking into Stoffa.
Any chance you got to confirm the cotton and linen prices?
001 Asymmetric Jacket is $700 in cotton and $900 in linen.
002 Flight Jacket is $800 in cotton and $1,000 in linen.
Interesting. With the tailored trousers you have on it doesn’t work – for the very reasons you outline in your concerns. However there is an upside; suede can work well (indeed is at its best) with denim and, secondly, heavy cotton chinos. Before making a strong decision please try some shots with this form of trouser. The reasoning is that the looser, heavier fabrics will add balance to the width in the cut and the full bellows pockets (always a danger if too large). The silhouette could have done with more shaping and smaller pockets. One last thought; the flight/ US bomber jacket came about in WW 2 – an era when trousers were cut loose and wide – the silhouettes therefore matched. If items such as these are to be stylishly reinvented then cut, colour and fabric need to be re-imagined to allow for it to take its place within a contemporary silhouette.
Simon, would you class the pockets as being bellowed? The construction is such that a panel is cut out of the front of the jacket and it’s almost as if they are inlays. In my opinion this reduces a lot of bulk.
Adding to that note, it’d be interesting to see some full body shots, as it’s easier to get a clearer image of full proportions.
An unrelated question: for a first brown jacket, would you go for a dark brown, say the colour of your dalcuore crispaire, or a mid brown, like the Richard James cashmere? For versatility and anonymity.
Regarding the length of the cut, we’ve seen you rock similarly short jackets before. (Your leather jacket by Davide at G&H comes to mind.) There are substantial differences such as the presence of bulkier front pockets here, but the style points may be fundamentally similar enough. Anyway, great review as always Simon. Cheers on the new jacket!
Simon, could you kindly state the total length of the jacket (excluding collar)? I ask because it appears to be a tad on the short side; perhaps a result of style?
How do you maintain your suede jackets and shoes?
Thank you. Yes, a detailed post would be very informative.
Thanks for the detailed article. I’m thinking about reserving a place for upcoming London trunk show and I would appreciate your thoughts on a cotton (rather than suede) field jacket. Also would you still go for navy on a cotton base?
Yes on navy. On cotton, it’s a nice cloth Agyesh uses but I would still always go for suede.
Now that you’ve had the jacket for a while, it’d be interesting to read your follow up thoughts on the fit and style as you had your doubts here. Also, I imagine the jacket will have softened up slightly with use, has that affected the fit and feel in any way good or bad?
It hasn’t really softened much, but it was soft to start with.
Perhaps I’ll do a post looking at three things and reflections on them since?
I’ve been looking for a suede field jacket for sometime and, given the expense of it, have been very cautious. I will be contacting Stiffs to see about commissioning something, but wanted your take on colour. I am leaning towards Navy, but am also considering a miss or forest green.
Would appreciate your thoughts on this as seen from appearance, impact (how one colour would look over the other, of that makes any sense) and versatility – not just with other colours, but also in terms of occasion.
Generally, I would say dark brown will be the most versatile, followed by navy, with navy being decidedly smarter.
My third choice would be dark green.
Thanks Simon. So brown would be more versatile overall, but blue more able to cross the casual divide over into more formal occasions?
Following up on the points above re colour choices- I have an appointment with Stoffa tomorrow so would appreciate your views…..
90% of my trousers are different shades of grey, that being- what colour would go best with them?
I know you said dark brown is the most versatile..will this still be the case?
I’m actually thinking about either dark brown, dusty green, Taupe, Cement or Anthracite…..
For for your first one, I would go with dark brown of those options. It will go with all colours of grey trouser, and be the most versatile informal colour.
I may have a A1 jacket done in brown suede…so lastly I was wondering what do you think of Anthracite? Since I wear grey trousers alot, will it be too much grey action going on?
Not considering brown as I know brown works- out of Anthracite or Dusty Green, which colour would be best for grey trousers?
Hi Simon, following up again as my Stoffa appointment is next week, my trousers are in cream, gray green, brown (various shades), gray and blue. Plus chinos in khaki, olive, dark violet, gray and blue. Whew! Would brown still be the most versatile choice for all that? Please excuse me if I seem a bit redundant. Thanks as always.
Well, it sounds like you have pretty much every colour, so no jacket is going to go with all of it!
If you want versatility, I’d still recommend brown for a casual look, navy for smarter.
Thanks Simon. The tailored trousers in cream and green are thanks to your posts on odd trousers!
Just a thought. If a field jacket in brown suede is the most versatile, would a navy one in wool/silk (which Stoffa also makes) be a good second project for a smart field jacket?
The jacket looks great, but do you know if it’s possible to have one made without the extrernal pockets?
Its a great design … apart from the pockets which are bellow pockets which make the lower potion of the jacket look even more billowy than it already is with this type of short jacket. Stoffa seems to love using these pockets! Wish they’d get rid of them and replace with a normal one!
I’m inclined to agree on the issue of morphology but when did everyone have ideal proportions? I think that the detail that kills this project is the pockets especially with the addition of the bellows feature. Had these been substituted for a traditional side seam entry but with more volume in the torso I think it would have worked better. All credit to the designer for capturing the pocket into the waistband but in this instance it hasn’t been enough.
The collar is another great piece of craft but again I feel too large.
I would reference the Baracuta Harrington as a sublime example of simplicity that works I’m gabardine and perhaps this is the problem. Too much emphasis on erroneous detail at the expense of form following function.
Usually, do high-end leather jackets have canvas, let’s say from Chapal, Valstar or Stoffa? If so, is there differences between it and the canvas from a normal suit? Also, could you compare the leather quality of those 3?
No, they never normally have canvas.
You have expressed exactly my own sentiments regarding the Stoffa flight jacket and all similar variations like the Valstar blouson and etc. At the end of the day, these jackets always bloom near the hips, creating an inverse V shape, which is unflattering. Only the likes of Andrew Weinas, with his muscular physique, can get away with wearing a Valstar and display strength.
For the rest of us mortals, these jackets simply don’t do us any favors and make us look more feminine by creating the impression of short & weak shoulders and large hips.
Let me know your thoughts! Planning to get it in dark brown, then beige. As you mentioned earlier, navy looks unusual in suede despite being a smarter color.
I think there are two different issues that both emphasise the waist – with Valstar, yes I know what you mean and this is really about the cut which isn’t that slim, and the elastication at the waist. With Stoffa, it’s actually cut a lot slimmer and close the waist, and there is no elastication. But the emphasis comes from the pockets.
With the Moto jacket, you don’t have the issue with elastication or big waist, nor the big pockets, you’re right.
But, it’s perfectly possible to have smaller pockets that are more flush with the body of the jacket and don’t have that Stoffa issue. And to have a slim fit in an elasticated blouson. And the shoulders are the same on all of them.
I’d pick more on which style you will find most useful, and if you care this much about fit, get it MTM.
Do you have an examples of a blouson without the pocket bulk that does not compromise the V silhouette? Craftsman’s A1 grant has the same problem as the stoffa jacket and I honestly have never seen anyone being flattered by a blouson except Andreas.
I have wide shoulders but a small chest and a bit of a protruding belly so I think the blouson won’t work for my body type. A blouson without the bulk would be close to the shape of a Moto Jacket but with buttons instead of zippers.
Would you consider wearing this with navy cotton trousers from and a grey knit, rather than the image posted above?
Thank you for your input. Would you apply this same reasoning to all versions of the color blue? For example, stoffa carries a slate blue trouser. Do you think there would still be difficulty in distinguishing the navy suede from a cotton slate blue?
Have you tried wearing the jacket with it zipped in the middle (unzipped in the pocket area to minimize flaring)? I’ve seen some people on IG and the Stoffa models wearing it that way and it definitely improves the silhouette.
I see. That certain zipping style tends to stand out since it is so unusual. That’s my only gripe.
I quite like their field jacket and I’m attracted to the sand colour, but I fear it will be of limited use. While I understand that brown, navy or dark green har more flexibility I want something a bit more interesting while still being useful. Such a jacket would be used mostly casually, with a shirt underneath and chinos at its most formal. Would you still consider sand an inflexible colour ? Would it be problematic to wear it in the evenings?
Probably yes on both counts Noel.
I do have a cotton field jacket already, so it might be more acceptable to have a less versatile piece in the collection.
Do you ever choose less versetile colours because you like it and / or you already own a similar, more versatile piece ?
Would you still consider sand as a wereable colour ?