<issue_start>username_0: After running flawlessly for 2 years, my 6 Gig Mac Pro has started to suffer a kernel panic about once a day. Nothing really has changed as far as I know. Two details, probably irrelevant, I installed Lion about a month+ ago. And I have had an Android tablet attached via USB and enabled for remote debugging.

I ran a memory diagnostic (rember) and it didn't find any problems.

This is what I find in the Kernel log just before the crash:

```
Sep 22 15:27:59 monster kernel[0]: (default pager): [KERNEL]: ps_select_segment - send HI_WAT_ALERT
Sep 22 15:28:00 monster kernel[0]: macx_swapon SUCCESS
Sep 22 15:28:32 monster kernel[0]: (default pager): [KERNEL]: ps_select_segment - send HI_WAT_ALERT
Sep 22 15:28:34 monster kernel[0]: macx_swapon SUCCESS

```

I've seen a variety of messages mentioning these errors but nothing conclusive.

If there's a hardware problem, is there a definitive diagnostic that I can run to prove or disprove it?

Any tips or troubleshooting guide will be appreciated! Thanks,

Pito<issue_comment>username_1: In my mind there are a couple of likely issues. If the machine is crashing with a kernel panic I would suspect the hard drive is on it's way out. If the machine is simply restarting without warning then I would suspect the memory.

To see if it is the memory it might be as simple as removing each stick of ram and blowing any dust off with compressed air and putting it back in. If this doesn't resolve it, I would get a new drive and clone the system using a tool like Carbon Copy Cloner or SuperDuper! Boot from the new drive and see if the issues go away.

If neither work then you could try reinstalling OS X, I doubt that's the issue. You more than likely have a failing video card or logic board if the above suggestions don't work.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Overheating? How long since you vacuumed out the dust from in there? It tends to accumulate inside my Mac Pro.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: The entries in logs means that your OSX is out of physical memory and it started to use swap space. This could cause by some specific process (such as Apache, PHP, etc.). Make sure that you enough swap space (`top`) and you'll find the right process which causing that issue.

What you can do:

* monitor for changes in Activity Monitor (sorted by memory usage or CPU)
* check your Console app for crash logs and backtraces with more specific information which you can Google it (e.g. buggy kernel modules)
* monitor your `dmesg` and system.log file (`sudo tail -f /var/log/system.log`) for more errors before the crash
* monitor for new processes via `sudo newproc.d`
* Run Mac in [recovery mode](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718) (keep holding `⌘ cmd` + `R` on startup), then try to Repair Disk and Repair Disk Permissions using Disk Utility.
* check for kernel modules which can be buggy, see: [How to unload kernel modules](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/54824/how-to-unload-kernel-modules)
* if you've [Magic SysRq](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_SysRq_key) key on your Mac, try to use it when system goes freeze
* test your RAM (e.g. using [Rember](http://www.kelleycomputing.net/Rember/) app)
* test your OSX for common system issues (e.g. using [OnyX](http://www.titanium.free.fr/) app)
* monitor temperature of your CPU, there are few apps (if this is the case, buy a cooling pad)

Please see the similar issue:

[Mountain Lion Screen Freeze](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/102148/mountain-lion-screen-freeze)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: It turned out to be bad memory. I removed and replaced the memory as suggested above (and increased my total memory in the process because new ram is so cheap) and my machine has been working with no problems since. Thanks all!
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I need to create a common development workspace between two macs connected in a wi-fi network. Sort of like a shared folder. But the problem using a shared folder is that there are a lot of ownership issues and stuff. The ownership can be for both or an individual mac. Any ideas ?<issue_comment>username_1: This is kind of taking the long way around, but if the data is not sensitive you could use a [Dropbox shared folder](https://www.dropbox.com/help/category/Sharing).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: How close are the computers? depending on the environment it might also be useful to see if synergy can help improve your works station.

<http://synergy-foss.org/>

Also Dropbox is good or cloudApp for quick uploads and syncs of data. If your computers are on the same wifi you can just setup Shared folders and access limited by accounts. At work I have two iMacs that share files via all these options. System Preferences > Sharing > File Sharing . Then just add the folders you want to share and set the users that will have access and what these users can do with the folders.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: It might be worth your time to learn how to handle the "ownership issues and stuff".

I do not have a definitive answer, but it is possible to attach an external hard drive to a Mac and to instruct the OS of that Mac to ignore all file permissions/privileges on that external hard drive. If those files and folders on that external hard drive are then shared over the network, (I do not know for certain) it may be possible that another user on another Mac across the network might also access those files without regard to the permissions assigned to them by default.

Try this:

In the Finder, mount the external drive and choose **File: Get Info**. In the Info window, at the bottom, click on the Lock button, authenticate, and check the box next to "**Ignore ownership on this volume**".

![Ignore Ownership](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4Vr5.png)

While we are examining this, here is how to give your coworker full privileges to access a shared folder or volume that is on your Mac or attached to it.

Under **System Preferences: Sharing**, enable **File Sharing** and add that specific volume to the **Shared Folders** list using the plus button under **Shared Folders:** For good measure, manually add your co-worker's name and password under **Users:** and give them **Read & Write** privileges.

![Sharing One](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hC4s.png)

![Sharing Two](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnSN5.png)

![Sharing Three](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9UR07.png)

Finally, there is a freeware graphical utility that you can use to change all file permissions on a file or folder without needing to use the command line or the Finder's Get Info windows. It is called [BatChmod](http://www.lagentesoft.com/batchmod/index.html). However, using it can have unintended consequences if you do not have a good understanding of how Mac permissions work. Use this utility carefully and avoid using it on the contents of entire folders if you are uncertain as to what you are doing.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOBKi.png)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: This is exactly the scenario that version control systems, like [GIT](https://git-scm.com/), are designed to handle. Even after you overcome the file permission/ownership issues, you still have the problem of managing changes.

Direct from the GIT Reference Manual:

>
> Many people’s version-control method of choice is to copy files into
>  another directory (perhaps a time-stamped directory, if they’re
>  clever). This approach is very common because it is so simple, but it
>  is also incredibly error prone. It is easy to forget which directory
>  you’re in and accidentally write to the wrong file or copy over files
>  you don’t mean to.
>
>
>

Sound familiar?

Your best bet is spend a small amount of time to download and learn GIT which will not only solve the current problem of "checking in/out files" but probably a number of issues you are running into and don't know yet.

They even have a 15 minute online primer - [Learn GIT in your browser](https://try.github.io/levels/1/challenges/1) - so you can be up and running pretty quickly.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I created a new YouTube account to use functions like "watch later" on my iPhone4, my PC and my AppleTV2. But if I try to log in with this account on my iPhone and the native YouTube app, I always get the error message that the username and/or the password are wrong. I used as username the email address I used to create the YouTube/Google account and which I use to log in the web interface.

What I'm missing? I'm sure that the credentials I use are correct.<issue_comment>username_1: Try logging in with your YouTube username, not your e-mail address. You can see your username when logging in from a regular computer in the top right corner.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem. Since I have signed up for 2-step verification I must use not my YouTube psw, but a application-specific password.

You can generate an application-specific password on your Authorizing applications and sites page using a desktop.

<http://support.google.com/youtube/bin/answer.py?hl=no&answer=184968>

Remember to use your email address, not you username.

Worked for me. :)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: How can I return the temperatures, fan speeds, etc, using Terminal?<issue_comment>username_1: Here's a website with a script:

<http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20051021115356696>

>
> While hunting around in ioreg I found a bunch of hardware sensor readouts, including CPU and GPU temperatures. I had no idea this stuff was available without a compiled app, so I excitedly whipped up a bash script (tp v0.1) to display the values.
>
>
>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_1: This website claims to have a free commandline tool to monitor temperature sensors.

<http://www.bresink.de/osx/0TemperatureMonitor/details.html>

>
> tempmonitor command-line tool
>
>
> Temperature Monitor
>
>
> version for the BSD command-line of Mac OS X, temperature sensors only
>
>
> yes
>
>
>

(Name of tool; part of package download; description; free of charge?)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: My wife never syncs her phone to her laptop, which I rarely have access to, but I would like upgrade the version of her phone's iOS when updates come out.

Is it possible to plug her phone into my computer (a MacBook) and upgrade the OS whilst preserving all of her settings/music/etc, even if her laptop is a Windows 7 PC? Further, even if this is possible is it advisable?<issue_comment>username_1: Fairly sure this is not possible. Your computer will detect it (the iPhone) as new device and will want to sync it or set it up as a new device, before you even get the option to start the software update.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes you can.

It's not a smooth process, since that computer will back up all the data and app packages for all your apps, then restore that backup data but it won't have the apps or music that doesn't get backed up as part of the backup process.

It will work, but you might want to transfer purchases / authorize that computer for a more transparent upgrade process. You can't really know it worked if you don't reload the apps after you restore your "backup".

There's nothing preventing you from doing this and then restoring your backup when your upgraded phone gets back to the computer from the last backup. You have to keep track of things and not do work that will get wiped when you load an older backup, but I've done this many, many times and it works well when you understand a bit how backups work.

* [iPhone and iPod touch: About backups](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1766)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I have some serious problems with the hosts file on my Lion 10.7.2. My hosts file is like following;

```
127.0.0.1 localhost
255.255.255.255 broadcasthost
::1 localhost
fe80::1%lo0 localhost

172.16.17.32 first.localhost
::1 first.localhost
172.16.17.32 second.localhost
::1 second.localhost

```

I have more than 2 local sites but I just cut is short.

I can't manage `http://first.localhost/` to work. `http://second.localhost/` works fine but `http://first.localhost/` doesn't work. If I delete the last two lines (which corresponds to **second**) than `http://first.localhost/` works.

How can I add more than one local site in my hosts file? I'm using Lion 10.7.2 which I upgraded today and all those problems arose after that upgrade.

**Note:** There is nothing wrong with Apache config files or any other file with the local web server, I know that it's the `/etc/hosts` file that causes the problem.

Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: All additional entries to the HOSTS file must be above the:

```
fe80::1%lo0

```

Make sure there is at least one line break after the last entry. Like so:

```
127.0.0.1 LLL.localhost
127.0.0.1 LLL.localhost
#

```

Although you probably can't tell, there is another line following the # symbol. One more thing to mention, using `Space` instead of `Tab` between 127.0.0.1 and localhost might help too.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You'll need to follow ioi's answer to the T to get this to work correctly. I think the real trick might be the extra line at the end of the file.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I understand that the iOS 5 Photo Stream is a collection of all of the recent photos taken on all iOS 5 devices in a given account, synced with those devices through the cloud. It is not clear to me, however, what the Photo Stream settings in Aperture do.

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l2m7T.png)

It appears that "Enable Photo Stream" simply connects Aperture to the Photo Stream and makes it available as a source for viewing and importing into Aperture; but it is not clear to me what "Automatic Import" and "Automatic Upload" do.<issue_comment>username_1: Automatic Upload:

Sends any photo added into your Aperture catalog into your overall Photo Stream.

Automatic Import:

When new photos are added into your overall Photo Stream Aperture will import them into your catalog and if there's facial recognition or geolocation information use that to filter and organize.

I will admit I've not tried it, but everything I've read about it says that's what it does.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: * **Automatic Import**: Imports any pictures received via Photo Stream into the main Aperture library. A copy will be created for this which remains even after the 1000th picture has been added to the stream and which can be edited

For this to work Aperture has to be open/running. If the 1000 picture threshold is reached while Aperture is not running, pictures will get lost irregardless of the setting of this option.
* **Automatic Upload**: Push any picture created in Aperture into the Photo Stream and on to all other connected devices
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I have iOS 5 on my iPod Touch 4, and I can't find Siri on it. Does it have Siri?<issue_comment>username_1: Siri is only available on the iPhone 4S and only fully supported within the United States at the moment.

Unfortunately the page [here](http://www.apple.com/iphone/features/siri.html) on Siri does not make that extremely clear, apart from only mentioning the iPhone 4S. I can't find an official source on the Apple site other then that page that specifically says Siri is only available on the 4S.

Siri supports various languages, however some functionality, like local business searches, will only work in the United States at the moment.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There was something the other day that said the software will technically run on the iphone 4 (with IOS 5), but the functionality requires access to Apple's servers...which you can currently only get with the 4S.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have bought myself a SSD and replaced the internal disk with it.
I was running Lion before (latest patch level).
I'm using Time Machine to back my laptop up.

When I was done replacing my HDD I booted up a Lion installation USB stick.

I created one partition on my SSD and told it to restore from my Time Machine backup.

This worked great,
however I also want to again turn on FileVault and I'm getting the error:

>
> FileVault can’t be turned on for the disk “Macintosh HD”.
>
>  Some disk formats don’t support the recovery partition required by encryption.
>
>  To use encryption, reinstall this version of Mac OS X on a reformatted disk.
>
>
>

I've read that this is because I'm now missing the recovery partition (Didn't even know I had that).

* What are my options here?
* Can I create this partition manually?

Do I need to reinstall Lion again (cleanly), patch it, and then restore from Time Machine?<issue_comment>username_1: From <http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4790>

>
> **FileVault 2 requirements**
>
>
> FileVault 2 requires OS X Lion and Recovery HD installed on your startup drive, which the OS X Lion installer will attempt to create at installation. If you receive an alert that no Recovery HD could be created and continued to install OS X Lion, you will be unable to use FileVault 2. See this article for more information. Please note that Recovery HD must be present on your computer's startup volume to use FileVault 2 (not an external Recovery HD).
>
>
>

Also, if you partitioned the new SSD yourself, ensure that you used the GUID partition table scheme.

Re-installing lion over the top of your existing install will recreate it for you.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I has a similar problem. You don't need to reinstall your OS just to get the Recovery partition. Here's what I did to get it to work:

1. First of all make a full backup (I personally use TimeMachine).
2. Make sure that you have a bootable Mountain Lion USB drive
3. Follow the instructions here: <https://brain.osx.ca/groups/coolstuff/wiki/932a7/>, but you can probably skip the parts about deleting and merging your current partitions (you probably just got the one partition).

Although the above link shows you how to make the partition, thus allowing you to use FileVault, it doesn't make my Recovery Partition bootable. I'm okay with that, because I have a bootable USB drive.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have described my solution in this blogpost:
<http://hints.binaryage.com/recover-lost-recovery-hd-for-filevault/>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: If you have any other disk around with Recovery Partition — use [Carbon Copy Cloner](http://www.bombich.com/). It [allows you to clone Recovery Partition](http://www.bombich.com/software/docs/CCC/en.lproj/advanced-strategies/the-disk-center.html#recovery_hd).
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I told Pages to learn the spelling of a character name I was writing about, without noticing there was a misspelling in the name.

Is there anyway to delete or correct the spelling of the name from the Dictionary now that I added it by mistake?<issue_comment>username_1: Right click on the misspelled word and select “Unlearn Spelling”.

As Pages uses OS X’ global spelling services, you can use this method anywhere text input is spell checked by it (more or less any text area, with the notable exceptions of MS Office, OpenOffice / LibreOffice, Firefox and a few other apps ported from the non OS X world).

If a misspelled word is not underlined in red and the “Unlearn Spelling” option is missing from the context menu, it may be that you originally used “Ignore Spellin” rather than “Learn Spelling”. In that case, try opening a new document and pasting in the misspelled word – the red underline will appear in the new document if you ignored the spelling in the original document.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The spelling dictionaries are stored as plain text files in `~/Library/Spelling/`. They can be edited directly, but the changes aren't always applied until AppleSpell.service is reopened.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I manage a small lawn business, I currently use about 12 tabs in Excel and keep track of customers, expenses, income, payroll, etc. I now have an iMac and am wondering what quality small business management programs are available.<issue_comment>username_1: There's always [Office for Mac](http://www.microsoftstore.ca/shop/en-CA/Microsoft/Office/Office-for-Mac-2011?WT.term=%2Boffice+%2Bmac+download&WT.mc_id=pointitsem_Microsoft+CA_google_Office+for+Mac+2011&WT.medium=cpc&WT.campaign=Office+for+Mac+2011&WT.srch=1&WT.content=nGvFN4uz&WT.source=google&cshift_ck=e0bbf2f2-c69c-4d3c-a49f-2b72c43c3026csnGvFN4uz) if you like Excel, [Numbers](http://www.apple.com/iwork/numbers/), and a host of other business apps. Check out the Mac App Store's "Business" section for more. Do realize, however, that Office for Mac isn't exactly the same as it is on Windows, and may *not necessarily* be worth the hefty price tag.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Easy Books by Geode Software provides complete accounting, invoicing, and time-tracking functions on your Mac – which looks like it's a good fit for your lawn business.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have a unique situation at my company. We are trying to develop a mobile service app that connects to slot machines. If you connect a PC to the slot machine, an external HD pops up in Windows and you can copy files to it.

We want to do the same thing through an iPad.

I know this would be all custom code, but I was wondering if it was possible for iOS to read an external USB drive through it's doc connector.<issue_comment>username_1: This has happened to me in the past. The solution that worked for me was making sure that the disc surface is clean and scratch free, and I mean very clean. Using normal CD wipes is good to get dirt off, but if it is scratched more than slightly, then you may have problems.

Or the disc may be defective from the factory, it does happen and they do exist.

Try talking to your local Apple Store about a possible replacement, or if worst comes to the worst, you can order one [here](http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MC573Z/A) (Apple still stocks them).

Hope this helps!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: In addition to the answer above, it is worth pointing out that failed Snow Leopard installations can be recovered. This is useful knowledge if you have more than one copy of the media available (as a disc or a partition on a drive etc.).

Again, it'd be a good idea to head somewhere like an Apple store where they would likely help you finish off this install!
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have a Canon iP3600 printer connected to a networked hard drive and up until a few days ago I was able to print from it. however, i have now lost the ability to print ever since i downloaded Apple's updated software for the printer!

I have my mac partitioned and running Windows 7 and can still print perfectly from there, so the cables are obviously not the problem. I can still print perfectly if I connect the printer via USB directly to the Mac. I can even print a test page from the Print preferences page.

I just cannot print from a document. Print Queue keeps saying "Copying print data" but nothing happens! Have downloaded the latest driver from the Canon website and deleted and re-installed the printer several times and several ways to no avail.

Any ideas most welcome...<issue_comment>username_1: I have exactly the same problem, installed driver numerous times, repaired permissions etc.. Then I installed Gutenprint ([main page](http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net/), [Mac OSX page)](http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net/MacOSX.php) and can print using that, although it seems to be terribly slow on my MP800R. Would still love to hear a different solution for getting the Canon drivers to work.

[edit]
After some more fiddling I got it working. Instead of adding the printer as an IP printer using LPD I added it via CUPS (http://localhost:631) and there for the connection I could choose canonijnetwork://Canon/MP800R?00.00.85.62.b9.2f The last bit will be different for everyone as it is the printer model and mac address. But after doing that I could print using the canon driver and also see the supply levels.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem and this is what I did to fix it:

1. Go to `http://localhost:631/`

If you get the "Web Interface is Disabled" message, run `cupsctl WebInterface=yes` in Terminal.
2. Choose the **Administration** tab.

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Vefn.png)
3. Click Add Printer.

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RkiDR.png)

If you are required to login, use a local Administrator account.
4. Select the printer (in my case it was automatically found).

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Synjw.png)
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I was using the [Migration Assistant utility](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3231) to transfer data from my old MacBook Pro to my new Mac. I didn't anticipate issues using Wi-Fi, but the transfer of 250 GB of data using wasn't going to end within a day of starting, so I interrupted it and I intend on starting over using a wired network (or [target mode disk connection](http://support.apple.com/kb/PH10725)) to speed the transfer.

However, now it says my HD on the new one has 60 GB occupied and I dont know where this exists. My created account has no documents/apps/etc. I want to delete this and start fresh if the software won't clean up an aborted transfer reliably.

What is the best way to start over?<issue_comment>username_1: If the destination MBP is brand new, save yourself some trouble, restore it from factory and run the Migration Assistant again.

However you can probably run it again and everything should be ok, it really depends what you have and what has been copied. Check /Library/ and ~/Library (use the Terminal), for example if you had GarageBand or Garage Band Jam Packs, those may have been partially copied.

I did that when I brought an MBAir. It was taking so much that I aborted, cloned my other Mac's drive and used a USB drive to do the migration.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The Mac will intelligently continue where it left off on the Migration Assistant. You do not need to worry about removing any duplicate files.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to change the Bluetooth UUID (the 128-bit value) on my iPod (Currently running iOS 5.0)? or is this a factory locked value?<issue_comment>username_1: The UDID is locked, but it is possible to spoof a UUID, as for an Bluetooth UUID, I'd think so but I'm not sure there's anything readily available i.e. in Cydia to do so, only a general phone UUID spoofer.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No it is not possible. No known private API or jailbreak methods to do so AFAIK.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Due to a water leakage, we had to move offices temporarily. In our temp offices, we have WIFI network, but not cabled network (yet).

Since my computer doesn't have WIFI (it's a stationary desktop) I thought I could see if I could bridge my iPhone WIFI connection over to my computer via USB while I wait for local facilities to set up cabled network here.

Is this possible?<issue_comment>username_1: which iPhone and iOS versions are you using? you will also need to check that your carrier allows a personal hotspot.

if you are able to turn on a personal hotspot on your phone, just connect the phone to the PC with a USB and enter the Wi-Fi password after finiding teh phone in the network settings.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fqxoX.png)

You could also just get a [WiFi USB](http://www.blueunplugged.com/Wireless-USB-Adapters.aspx) which would pick up the WiFi from the router.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorry, but it's not possible to do this without jail breaking. The "Personal Hotspot" function on an iPhone only allows for sharing the 3G connection, not the wifi connection, so you can't use it as a wifi adapter. It's feasible that Apple could add this functionality, but it's a fairly niche case, so I wouldn't count on it.

More immediately, if you have a laptop with wifi available, you could use Internet Sharing (OS X)/Internet Connection Sharing (Windows) and an ethernet cable to get connectivity to your desktop. Or if you've got a Staples or something similar nearby, they usually have USB wifi adapters for $30 or less.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Of course this is possible:

1. Your iOS device must be joined to wifi connection
2. Your iOS device must be [jailbroken](http://www.iclarified.com/jailbreak/index.php)
3. Your PC must have [iTunes](http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/) on it
4. Install [MyWi 5.0](http://intelliborn.com/mywi.html) over Cydia ([Cydia](http://www.ehow.com/how_5018075_use-jailbroken-iphone-ipod-touch.html) will be installed on your iOS device after you [jailbreak](http://www.iclarified.com/jailbreak/index.php) it)
5. Choose USB tethering in USB tab
	* Set MyWi USB to ON
	* Go to Advanced USB
	* Set USB Bridhe to "Bridged to WiFi" so you don't get online via 3G
6. Enjoy your wireless internet connection
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_4: just download virtualwifirouter for free , install and configure it once ....... and enjoy for life time :) .........
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: Free method that works, with a jailbroken iPhone at least:

**1)** Install openSSH on your iPhone from cydia, or `apt-get`, if you prefer the terminal.

**2)** Install python 2.7.x.

     As of this writing the latest version is 2.7.6.

**3)** download libusbmuxd.

     <https://github.com/libimobiledevice/libusbmuxd>

     You can either do a `git clone` or, if you don't have / want to get `git`, download
      the release from the 'releases' tab.

**4)** unpack it if you didn't take the `git clone` route. If you downloaded the tarball,do
      `tar zxvf .tar.gz` from a terminal. In windows, use 7-zip or download the .zip version of the tool.

**5)** `cd` into `libusbmuxd/python-client`.

**6)** The following step is platform-dependent:

Windows
-------

If you run windows, you will have to manually type the path to your `python.exe` program. If you chose the default location, it will install into `C:\Python27`. So, in windows, go to your command prompt and type
`C:\Python27\python.exe tcprelay.py -t 22:2222`.

Linux/Unix/Solaris/BSD, etc.
----------------------------

If you use Linux (like me), Cygwin in Windows, BSD/Unix, solaris, or basically any platform besides windows and DOS known to man, you will simply type
`python2.7 tcprelay.py -t 22:2222`.

**7)**
Not quite done yet - You need a SSH client running! This, too, is platform-dependent.

Windows - PuTTY
---------------

In windows, cygwin makes this easy, but if you don't have cygwin already, PuTTY is a good option:
<http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~sgtatham/putty/download.html>

Set it up like this:

![Setting up puTTY - 1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OCYY1.png)

![Setting up puTTY - 2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yNvZo.png)

Be sure to set the login username to 'mobile'.
![Setting up puTTY - 3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xUtNG.png)

And, for a little extra speed (lower overhead from the encryption), change the encryption to 'arcfour'. Usually, I would *not* recommend this, but since you are pushing the encryption over a USB cable and not a network, security is less of a risk.

![Setting up puTTY - 4](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LYoBG.png)

If you want, you can then save a profile for this, to avoid setting it all back up each time you have a problem. This is done in the 'session' section at the very top.

Linux/Unix/BSD/Solaris/OSX/HP-UX/whatever I'm still missing
-----------------------------------------------------------

You can run `ssh -D 8080 -p 2222 mobile@127.0.0.1`
The default password for the `mobile` and `root` accounts on the iphone should be `alpine`. Once you are successfully logged in, you should see a `xterm`-like window. type `passwd` now, to change your password to something more secure. Also, type `su` and use `alpine` as your password to log in as `root` and change the `root` password as well. Then, type `exit` to go back to your login as `mobile`.

**8)** You're nearly done now, I swear! It's less complex than it appears so far, if you actually do it yourself!

Now, you need to open your web browser of choice; I use firefox, so I will use it as an example. I have used chrome, but as I do not like it and do not currently have it installed, I cannot presently use it for an example. But you set it up as a SOCKS proxy, regardless of browser.

These screenshots were done with a forwarded X11, so the fonts are ugly, but pay it no mind.

First, go to the preferences window (`tools -> options` or `edit -> preferences`, depending on OS). Then, go to `Advanced -> Network -> Settings...`.
![Firefox Configuration 1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/h9hrM.png)

Use the following configuration for the browser.

![Firefox Configuration 2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OPuP3.png)

Problems and Solutions
======================

Problem:
--------

Yeah, this isn't really using the iphone as a modem.

Solution:
---------

Get over it; it works.

Problem:
--------

My app doesn't allow setting a SOCKS proxy.

Solution:
---------

I have had this problem with games like Minecraft. Here's some fixes.

For minecraft, I added a argument to `ssh`. I regularly play on the nerd.nu reddit minecraft servers (reddit.com/r/mcpublic). Since minecraft 1.6, SSH tunneling and SOCKS proxies set as command line arguments haven't worked. You used to be able to add java parameters `-DSocksProxyHost=127.0.0.1 -DSocksProxyPort=8080` and it would work. Now, however, the solution isn't quite as nice, but it does work.

When you start `ssh`, instead of `ssh -D 8080 -p 2222 mobile@127.0.0.1`, do
`ssh -D 8080 -L 127.0.0.1:25565:p.nerd.nu:25565 -p 2222 mobile@127.0.0.1`.
 Then, when you want to connect to the server, instead add the URL `127.0.0.1:25565` to your list of servers! The remote server will appear on 127.0.0.1/localhost thanks to the miracle of SSH tunneling!

For other programs/games, the same rule applies. If you can't set a SOCKS proxy and nothing else works, just add `-L 127.0.0.1:::`.

There is nothing forcing you to use the same port on `127.0.0.1` that you would normally, so I could have, for example, mapped `p.nerd.nu:25565` to `127.0.0.1:1025` and the game wouldn't care as long as I specified the port. Not all programs are so lenient, but it's useful to remember.

---

Also, remember: *Nearly any program* can use this. So while it's not as nice as having a simple modem or something, It definitely works. Note that if you lose connection to wi-fi, you will probably start eating into your cellular network's data access. If the cellular network does deep-level packet inspection, be prepared for a charge for enabling tethering. Just be careful, please :) If you have "TetherMe" from Cydia, or something like that, it might mask what you are doing. Also, sometimes if the iphone goes to sleep it will turn off wi-fi. Install `insomnia` from cydia/apt to get around that.

Or, to prevent deep packet inspection, you can also SSH from your iphone into a PC at home for encryption, and then SSH into your iphone from your device that you are wired into.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I've noticed the small movies I take on my iPhone 4 result in large .mov files. For example, a 1 minute movie results in almost a 100MB .mov file. This is running through my cloud storage (Dropbox) rather quickly. Is there an easy way to reduce the quality/size after transferring to my Mac?<issue_comment>username_1: Most of this is documented:

* [How do you convert video within 10.7 without any 3rd party software](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/21737/how-do-you-convert-video-within-10-7-without-any-3rd-party-software)

![Right click on video file](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0m2m.png)
![Choose resolution](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFvuu.png)
![click continue](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TPh6.png)

The Finder has built in video encoding and you could even use these to set up watch folders and attach a pre-set conversion using Automator if you found one setting that you prefer...
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can transcode them while transferring!

You can do exactly same automator workflow but make it an Image Capture plug-in. So you can choose in "Image Capture" videos from your iOS device and import them transcoded.

Really easy steps are presented on [macworld.com](http://www.macworld.com/article/1163361/smaller_iphones4s_movies.html), basically you use

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CF75z.jpg)

and import your movies using Image Capture.

If you check the box [Show this action when the workflow runs] you will be able to choose destination folder and compress options.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: As an alternative to using Quicktime to lower the quality of the video (therefore, reduce the size of the file) is to use VLC Media Player.

It works better in the sense that it provides options for codecs, encapsulation and audio codecs as well. This can help to convert the .mov to be playable in specific devices or platforms.

***Moreover***, it keeps a better resolution of the videos.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8SRS.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O8SRS.png)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I have a backlog of all my favourite podcasts and i was wondering if I could speed up the rate at which they play to say 1.5 or 2.0 of the normal speed<issue_comment>username_1: This feature is not available in iTunes, but you can choose the playback speed on the iPod or iPhone. By playing it there and synchronizing back to iTunes, it will mark your backlog items as played.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If this podcast was created by you (or you have the audio file), you could try to use [Audacity](https://www.audacityteam.org/download/). Here's their description:

>
> Audacity is an easy-to-use, multi-track audio editor and recorder for
>  Windows, Mac OS X, GNU/Linux and other operating systems. Developed by
>  a group of volunteers as open source.
>
>
>

Basically, download it, and then drag your file into the main window. Then select track > Cmd+A > Effect (menu) > Change temp (not rate) > Check Use high quality stretching (slow) > Adjust your rate > click okay. Then, export it (File > Save other). Chose your desired filetype, etc. Drag the file back into iTunes.

You'll also need to change the track back to a podcast, so right click it > cmd+i > Options > media kind > Podcast. It'll now be in your podcast folder.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I recently turned Match on in iTunes, and it did its thing and matched/uploaded songs. I then turned it on in my iPhone and to my horror, the tags that I thought I had meticulously organized weren't quite so perfect... mostly due to the "Album Artist" tag.

For example, the artist list in my iPhone now displays both “Smashing Pumpkins” and “The Smashing Pumpkins”. I went back to iTunes, corrected all the issues I could find, and hit “Update iTunes Match”, thinking this would send in my corrected tags.

Once it finished, I checked my phone to find that nothing had changed. I then checked back in iTunes to find that it had actually *uncorrected* the tags I just fixed. They're now back to the way they were when I sent them into Match.

Is there a way to get Match to recognize changes to ID3 tags, or am I forever stuck with what I've got?<issue_comment>username_1: I had a similar issue, it seems as once the song is uploaded to iCloud via iTunes match it becomes the "Master" copy. Install iTunes 10.5.1 or later on another PC and connect it to iTunes Match but DO NOT download anything! Then you can delete songs from iCloud, don't worry this won't delete them from your main iTunes library. Once deleted go back to your main iTunes machine and change the metadata, then choose add to iCloud for the song. The new metadata will now be ULd to iCloud.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I've had success with a slighly different approach which (as a plus) doesn't require re-adding all your tracks.

First, I turned off iTunes Match on my iMac (desktop) where my library resides. Then, I cleaned up all my metadata.

Next, I went to my Macbook Air (laptop), opened iTunes, went into iTunes Match, and deleted everything. As earlier posts have pointed out, despite the warnings iTunes gives you, this does *not* have the effect of deleting anything out of your local iTunes library (on my iMac, in my case).

Go back into iTunes on my desktop, and turn on iTunes Match. This starts the standard 3 step process, which finishes pretty quickly (in my case - my library is ~8k songs).

When it's done, all my tracks have been re-associated w/ iTunes Match, and have taken the new metadata assigned to them. Confirmed by going back to my laptop, quitting out of iTunes and re-launching, and waiting for iTunes Match to sync. After sync, my library appears, and contains the updated metadata.

Would be interested to know if this works for anybody else!
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I have a mid 2010 Mac mini 2.4GHz with 2GB of RAM.

I want to upgrade the RAM to 8GB.

Willing to buy this RAM:

<http://www.bimeks.com.tr/urun/112447/kingston-4gb-1333mhz-ddr3-non-ecc-cl9-sodimm-kvr1333d3s9-4g-.aspx>

Will it work with my 2010 Core 2 Duo Mac mini?<issue_comment>username_1: From Support Apple's page:

<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4223>

Mac mini (Early 2009), Mac mini (Late 2009), and Mac mini (Mid 2010) computers have two internal memory slots. **These slots accept** a standard PC3-8500 DDR3 204-pin SO-DIMMs (Small Outline DIMM) with **the following specifications**:

* PC3-8500 DDR3
* unbuffered
* non-parity
* 204-pin module
* 1066 MHz

**DIMMs with the following features will not work with these Mac mini models:**

* registers or buffers
* PLLs
* ECC
* parity
* EDO RAM
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Shortly, But memory with the same bus speed as the current one. Most Mac minis do have a bug that prevents them from using faster memory. You will loose precious time if you do not do this, especially because the memory is not rejected but the system became instable.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I am not endorsing their products, but you should check online with [Other World Computing](http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/mac-mini/) and see exactly what RAM they recommend for your specific model of Mac mini.

First, make sure you find your Mac's exact model identifier number using the Apple System Profiler (System Information) utility.

Other World Computing specializes in upgrading Macs and their prices are usually competitive with the market. They stand behind their work and they will guarantee that the RAM they sell you will meet the necessary specifications for your exact model of Macintosh.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: What is the easiest/quickest way using an iMac to scan the ISBN number of a bunch books.

Non-paying (for software, or dedicated scanner device) preferred, although low-cost solutions might be considered.

In the end, I just want to get a simple text file with all ISBN numbers scanned. I am not interested in fetching the associated data (as they are non-English comic books, which typically aren't in any of the big databases as e.g. Amazon)<issue_comment>username_1: [iCollect Books](http://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/icollect-books-pro/id346089485?mt=8)
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

App Store (£1.99)
or Mac App store £10.99)

You can scan in books using iPhone or iPad or manually enter them in on the Mac.

You can then export to a CSV file which lists all the data from each book.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ey5Sj.jpg)![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Oki.jpg)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Delicious Monster makes an awesome piece of software called [Delicious Library](http://www.delicious-monster.com/) that's intended to do exactly what you're after: scan and catalog your library (of books and other things). And it all works through your iMacs built-in iSight camera. And it works very, very well. From their website:

>
> “Wait, I just hold a CD or DVD or video game or book or whatever up to my webcam, and it magically reads the UPC and downloads that item’s cover and all pertinent information about it, and displays all my stuff on photorealistic shelves? I’ll take it! Right now! This is why I bought a computer in the first place! ”
>
>
>

Yea, it's very cool to watch it in action. Very easy to use.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Buy a cheap USB barcode scanner that is OSX compatible and it scans it just as if it was entered into a keyboard. You can pick em up around the web for as little as $20.

Then you could just have each ISBN on a line in a text file, google spreadsheet.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Delicious Library wasn’t made just for scanning a list and dumping it out, but it could be used for such a thing. After scanning in your items you’d either want to slurp the results using a custom AppleScript or you can use our export-to-CSV feature and only do the ISBN column.

* If a book doesn’t look up on Amazon there’s an error window that pops up, and with two clicks you can add it as a blank book.
* We consider the ISBN-13 and ISBN-10 to be interchangeable, so we only store the one that’s standard, which is the 13. In the examples I’ve seen the barcode is actually an EAN-13, so we don’t even have access to the ISBN-10, we’d have to synthesize it.

-username_4
Chief Monster,
Delicious Monster Software
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: Ever since my company updated to Lion, terminal.app has been behaving differently. When I click on the dock icon, it sometimes opens several terminal windows at once, instead of a single one, and all of them display my previous session's activity, rather than just opening to a shell prompt.

What can I do to make the terminal go back to behaving the way it used to? I can't find anything in the prefs that would account for these changes.<issue_comment>username_1: This is the [resume](http://www.apple.com/macosx/whats-new/) feature of OS X Lion.

Undo resume for a specific application
--------------------------------------

Type the following command in the Terminal. Then restart the specific application.

In general the syntax is:

```
defaults write com."producer"."program-name" ApplePersistenceIgnoreState YES

```

Thus, in your case (Terminal.app) it is:

```
defaults write com.apple.terminal ApplePersistenceIgnoreState YES

```

If you want to set the resume feature again, simply write NO using the same syntax.

Undo resume for all applications
--------------------------------

In order to disable this for *all* applications do this:

go to **`System Preferences->General`**
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/alhlq.jpg)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_1: If you prefer a graphical interface you can use the app [**TinkerTool**](http://bresink.de/osx/0TinkerTool/download.php5).

This application gives you access to additional preference settings and allows to activate hidden features in the operating system.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSPy0.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: Does it matter where I purchase an Apple product (Macbook Pro), or will I get essentially the same product with the same level of support no matter where I buy it?<issue_comment>username_1: If it's a **certified** apple reseller you will get exactly the same product as when purchasing at www.apple.com or the apple store.

If it's another shop that is not certified by apple, you should ask them (how are we here supposed to know?).

You will get the same level of support. It's **[worldwide one year limited guarantee](http://store.apple.com/Catalog/uk/Images/worldwidewarranty.html)** with 90 days of telephone support.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you want support at the time of purchase (installing stuff, help with setup, etc.), you will usually (not guaranteed though) find a higher level of expertise and service at the Genius Bar in an Apple Store, due to Apple's required employee training programs.

Exchanges for the rare minor defects (dead pixels, etc.) are easiest if you buy local.

The product should all be identical if it's a official Apple reseller.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: This has been bugging me for a while, and despite googling around, I cannot seem to even find an explanation as to why the "Create Application Shortcut" is disabled.<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately, the answer to your question is "you can't," and the reason is "because Google says so.

<http://support.google.com/chrome/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=95710> says

>
> This feature is only available for Google Chrome on Windows and Linux.
>
>
>

but there is no real explanation as to why. Nor have I found one anywhere else. It seems like an oft-requested feature, but I've never seen Google even suggest that they are planning to add it (although I presume/hope that they will).

**Alternative Solution:** If you are interested in creating site-specific browsers on Mac OS X, [Fluid.app](http://fluidapp.com/) works great, but (IIRC) it is based on Webkit, not Chrome.

**2013-06-27:** *Turns out* there is a way to make Chrome SSBs on the Mac, although it's a little convoluted.

The instructions are too long to replicate here, and there is a shell script and/or AppleScript involved. You can find both of them at
<http://www.lessannoyingsoftware.com/blog/2010/08/149/Create+application+shortcuts+in+Google+Chrome+on+a+Mac>

LifeHacker covered this as well, and created a video to go along with it. You can find that at:
<http://lifehacker.com/5611711/create-application-shortcuts-in-google-chrome-for-mac-with-a-shell-script>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There have been google suppor threads where a "rep" does state that this feature is in the works. It once was pegged at 2 months, or perhaps 2 weeks, I can't remember. That was over a year ago.

I suspect it is not a very high priority with so few users even knowing what it would be good for. I had a PC/Windows using friend try it out, not only couldn't he figure out how to set it up, but couldn't think of a good reason why it would be a *great* idea.

All the while, he was clicking away and mousing away with his 1900 button mouse that he loves so much. :)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: [Fluid.app](http://fluidapp.com/) is a third-party app which provides this feature. It works great, and the free version has enough features. You can set global shortcuts, custom app icons, and lots of other stuff.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I think the idea is that the website author creates an "app" in the Chrome Web Store, and then you can install that app within Chrome, and then when you open it, it opens in it's own window, with it's own icon in the dock etc.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Applicationize
==============

An open-source, free service I built that replicates the "Create Application Shortcuts" behavior on Mac by generating a Chrome extension of your favorite website on-the-fly that opens in its own window with its own dock icon!

<http://applicationize.com/>

<http://eladnava.com/create-application-shortcuts-on-mac-with-applicationize/>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: Or you can create an [electron](http://electron.atom.io) "app" from the website.

Not nearly as simple as it should be with Chrome, but <https://github.com/jiahaog/nativefier> makes it a bit easier.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: When I try to delete folders/files from my External drive I get the below error after being asked to enter my admin password:

`The operation can’t be completed because you don’t have permission to access some of the items.`

This volume is `Mac OS X Extended (Journaled)` and I am running `10.7.2`

Permissions seem correct `read/write` and everything else is working fine.<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Open Terminal
2. Drag folder you want to delete onto the Terminal icon in the dock
3. Type `cd ..` in the new Terminal window in order to move to the parent directory.
4. Type `ls` to find out the exact name of the files/folders in the directory.
5. Type `sudo rm -r filename` to delete the file/folder 'filename'. Be careful to type the correct name.

Dragging files onto the terminal icon does not work. You will need to drag the parent directory onto the icon.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Being lazy, and this is (I think), a slight improvement on GentMatt's great answer...

Before his step 5, you can highlight and copy the filename in terminal.

Then sudo rm -r , then paste.

This assures you are in fact, deleting the correct file.. Sometimes, there are two files with very close names..

It's probably a good idea to copy/paste as much as possible, in order to a) be lazy, and b) be more accurate...

Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: How are you supposed to use Google Music on and iPhone? I uploaded a lot of my music to Google Music but I want to have offline access to them on my iPhone.<issue_comment>username_1: Offline access won't be possible until Google either releases an iOS music app or a Google Music API. Both are very unlikely.

Have a look at [iTunes Match](http://www.apple.com/itunes/itunes-match/) though.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Google do not provide offline access for google music on the iPhone.

However just searching "Google music" on the App Store, shows 2 (paid) applications, that seem to offer offline access.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I'm not using Mac keyboard however it did work properly before. I changed the `Command` key to `Ctrl`. Until today, using this `Ctrl` key yield extremely odd characters. When pressing

* `Ctrl`-`A` yields å
* `Ctrl`-`V` yields √
* `Ctrl`-`C` yields ç

And I have no idea where these characters come from? So how could I fix this issue? Can anyone please help? Thanks.

**EDIT**

Here is my screenshot

![screenshot of keyboard preferences](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnZZ0.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like you have accidentally configured your `control` key to be your `alt` key. Case in point: when I press `alt`+`a`, I get å. `alt`+`v` returns √, and `alt`+`c` gives us ç. Go into your settings and check again. They are located in System Preferences -> Keyboard -> Modifier Keys. Note: `alt` is also `option`.

Edit: I cannot duplicate this phenomena (see comments on this answer), so I will guess that the non-Apple keyboard is messing up the process somehow.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If the option key is the one with the Windows logo on it, make sure you have the game switch (the switch with the little joystick on it) set to off. I think off is left.

With the game switch on, the Windows key is disabled (to prevent accidental Windows key presses from minimizing your game and sending you back to the Windows desktop).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Old question but today I ran into the same issue. What caused it, no idea. It was either a) my 1 year old daughter mashing keys or b) when trying to setup a steam controller on mac.

The problem is your option key and command key are swapped. Remapping the keys in the Settings > Keyboard > Modifier Keys doesn't work.

[Karabiner-Elements](https://pqrs.org/osx/karabiner/index.html) works to remap the keys to each other. Thus left option -> left command, left command -> left option. Same for the right side. Karabiner is a free, broadly used piece of software.

Here's what you'll want to do:

[![Karabiner-Elements screenshot](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EebAp.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EebAp.png)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I've just run into that issue myself for my new Keychron K4 keyboard.
It turned out that the switch was pointing to Windows mode, rather than OSx.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_5: I use a Macbook Pro with an old PC keyboard and ran into this issue today, `command``c` gives "ç".

After reading the posts here, I assigned

* Option to "No Action" and
* Command to Command

like this:

[![Screenshot of Modifier configuration settings](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rqC2s.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rqC2s.png)

and now copy/paste works again.

This article has useful information:
[Command+C (copy) with the left command key does not work](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/108303/commandc-copy-with-the-left-command-key-does-not-work)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Some keyboards support different keyboard configurations. I found pressing `fn` + `O` solved this problem on Mac. See your specific keyboard manual to switch it to Mac layout.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I got the same issue with my keyboard as below:

Ctrl-A yields å

Ctrl-V yields √

Ctrl-C yields ç

My problem was my keyboard settings.

I am using Air75 with both physically setting for MaxOS and Win.
The keyboard has a physical switch that allows you to select which system you are on. Flipping the switch to Windows will revert the command and options keys. I would suggest double check if you have the switch in the Windows setting.

I hope this helps, and best of luck.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: On Logitech K860 I solved it by: Long press `fn`+`O`

If that doesn’t work, then try `fn`+`P`

* not case sensitive
* long press (~ 5 seconds)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: Go to *System Preference -> Keyboard -> (Keyboard shortcuts) -> Modifier keys -> Restore setting for your keyboard*.

Then just press `Fn` `O` for 3 seconds. Your keyboard setting will be setup to Mac defaults instead of Windows.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have started to get some error messages about items failing to sync. It seems to be a sporadic issue - and the error pictured below was for a sync attached to the USB cable. I do have WiFi sync enabled for this device and it also happens when I'm syncing wirelessly, so the presence or absence of the cable seems to be unrelated to the error.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4zXcS.png)

Opening iTunes on iOS doesn't seem to tell me what failed. The same goes for iTunes on my Mac. Does anyone have a clue where "more information" is logged in this case? Although many are suggesting ways to eliminate the error (trial and error), I'm more interested in where the error log lies. It baffles me there isn't some debug more or way to hook into iTunes to get a log of the problems.

Where else can I look for this information relating to sync errors?<issue_comment>username_1: If there's an error log I don't know where it is, but I can suggest some things to look for in your iTunes Library:

* Videos encoded in a format that won't work on the iPhone. (This might
also be caused by a video podcast encoded in an incompatible format).
* .psd (Photoshop Document) files (in your photo library)
* Purchased media or apps registered to an Apple ID for which the iOS device
isn't authorized.

Happy hunting.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the error again this morning - three items failed to sync.

I do finally have a potential culprit. The presence of App store updates seems to correlate with these errors. It fits all the criteria so far that come to mind.

* temporary and sporadic (most of the time, I'm not in the process of downloading apps while syncing and even with simultaneous downloads, my internet is such that this is generally a 1-10 second window or less per app)
* resolves itself without needing user intervention

I've poked at this several times and it doesn't seem to correlate with the sync errors in a pattern that I can detect.

The only explanation I can guess is that **there is no log where these errors are collected**.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The last couple of times that this happened to me (also syncing via USB) I wasn't able to find anything in the console or logs... The I noticed that there was little room let in my device, so before syncing again I removed some data (a couple apps), then tried the sync again and it worked fine with no warnings at all.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Leave your device plugged into the computer. There should be a little alert icon next to the device name in iTunes. Click on that to see what the actual problems were. Information from: [See iTunes for more information](http://willhains.com/post/17454146594/see-itunes-for-more-information)

In my experience, updating my apps and re-syncking has cleared the warnings.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I can't get pass the license screen after a restore on an iPad. After a restore in iTunes, i didn't backup, we don't have a backup so just a wipe and restore to factory settings is all she wanted. This is for my gf. I get all way to to entering her apple id and the next screen is the various software liscences to read and agree to, but lo and behold; you can't click on the blue agree button. all inpu ti ignored, i can disagree, i can click back to return to the apple id login etc. Home button gives you options to setup etc. Even using the voiceover, i can see all the elements on the screen but the agree button is ignored.

We can't hack or jailbreak the device, it was given to her by her work. And I'm pretty sure its just a regular consumer device setup, So i'm sure nothing their IT department could have caused this, they're the ones to have suggested a restore.

I've tried logging in with my own apple id. I've tried setting up a new apple id, all can't get pass the liscence screen in the setup.

Multiple restores, even did it on my own mac, she runs off a win7 laptop.
Important to note that there isn't any info on the thing that can't be synced back via iTunes so that isn't our concern.<issue_comment>username_1: I could weIl be wrong but I believe you have to scroll all the way down the licence screen and check a box to enable the button
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: To correctly restore an iPad to factory settings, please ensure the steps listed in this Apple knowledgebase article, under the **"Restoring your iOS device"** heading have been followed precisely.

<http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414>

*Note: During activation, the device must be connected to the Internet, or tethered to a computer with Internet access and running iTunes.*

If this does not solve the issue, please comment on this answer with your results, and I will try to assist further by editing this answer.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I am doing well with my Mac, but I don't want to buy another computer for gaming, then I'm thinking on upgrading it.

Searching in the web, I've seen that there is no way to upgrade the Mac mini's internal card, but anyone have experienced or knows if it works well with an external graphics card?

Do you think it's worth? Suggestion for an external graphics card?

Mac mini's model is mid-2011 with 8 GB RAM.<issue_comment>username_1: The graphics card is soldered onto the logic board of all of the Mac Mini with Intel chips.

The only sort of external graphics card that will work are USB adapters which are great if you don't need fast GPU shading / polygon fill rates and simply want more real-estate and screens rather than a faster gaming or 3D modeling performance.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If your Mac mini has a Thunderbolt port (which the mid-2011 models do), you should be able to add an external graphics card when those become available. Until then, there are no external graphics adapters for Macs except the DisplayLink USB adapters that @username_1 mentioned, but those won't work for gaming.

An external graphics card is usually PCI-Express x16 and Thunderbolt only carries an x4 signal, so you won't get full speed out of that, but it's better than integrated (or maybe even just old) graphics. (Heck, many, if not most, PC motherboards only run x8 signals to attached x16 graphics cards, so they're not using the full bandwidth anyway.)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I recently updated my iPhone 3GS to iOS 5.0.1, and the baseband got updated to 06.15.00. I jailbroke it using redsn0w 0.9.10b1.

Now no matter what I try, I'm not able to unlock my iPhone. I tried installing Ultrasn0w, but that's not working.

I suspect that this is happening since I didnt preserve the baseband.

I'd be very very thankful if anyone can tell me how to proceed right now. I'm stuck and I'm really in need of help. Please.<issue_comment>username_1: Be sure to enable the option "Install iPad baseband" in redsn0w first before running ultasn0w - note that because you are already on 06.15.00 without preserving your baseband, can not go back. Using Ultrasn0w may also cause you to lose GPS functionality. As a general note, be very careful with future updates.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I've used [this](http://www.iphonejailbreak.me/jailbreak-and-unlock-iphone-3gs-ios-5-0-1-using-sn0wbreeze-custom-firmware-and-ipad-baseband-6-15-00/) tutorial before. In fact, I'm using it *right now* to unlock my boss's iPhone.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Is there some canonical place I can find a reference for the scripting capabilities various things have in AppleScript?

For instance, I'd like to automate iTunes a little bit. Looking around on the web I see iTunes supports `get album of current track` and `current track` has several properties: `name`, `artist`, etc. But nowhere can I find a reference for all of iTunes' properties, or capabilities other than `current track`. That info may be on [Doug's AppleScripts for iTunes](http://dougscripts.com/itunes/) somewhere, but then that's iTunes specific, I want a general reference for all apps.

Similarly, Google Chrome has some scriptability. How can I discover what it can do? It's a third party product and Google has written [some of their own docs](https://sites.google.com/a/chromium.org/dev/developers/design-documents/applescript), but they seem incomplete.

A website AppleScript reference would be great. Even better would be if AppleScript has some introspection abilities so I can just ask iTunes itself what it supports with AppleScript code. (Honestly I hate the language, but it seems to be the only way to access a lot of neat things in MacOS apps.)<issue_comment>username_1: Most apps that can be scripted with AppleScript will have a dictionary you can open with AppleScript Editor (File > Open Dictionary). The app's dictionary will then list details for each of the commands and classes that can be used with it in an AppleScript script.

Creating an AppleScript dictionary is up to the app's developer, so you may occasionally come across apps with poorly documented, incomplete or outdated dictionaries, but it's still usually a good place to start.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You could open the application's dictionary in AppleScript Editor from the `⇧⌘O` dialog.

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jcUQ.png)

A few basic commands for examining objects:

```
tell application "Finder"
    properties
    properties of window 1
end tell

tell application "System Events" to tell process "Finder"
    UI elements
    {name, value} of attributes of some UI element
end tell

```
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I've got Windows 7 running on my computer and I would like to partition my `D:` volume, make it HFS+ but I cannot find any tool that will accomplish this.

Anyone had done this before? Is it possible? I have EaseUS partition tool but it does not support HFS/HFS+.<issue_comment>username_1: I only know of two commercial tools: [MacDrive](http://www.mediafour.com/products/macdrive/standard/) and [TransMac](http://www.asy.com/scrtm.htm). They both have limited time trials to evaluate before you buy.

You could also try a Live CD of [GParted](http://gparted.sourceforge.net/livecd.php), it has HFS support.

Update: a colleague of mine told me you can create a HFS partition with `diskpart`. Just make sure it's **primary** and use partition id `af` (`create partition primary id=af`).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can use [Paragon HFS + for Windows](http://www.paragon-software.com/home/hfs-windows/), for example. With him will be an opportunity and to read and write.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: This did the trick for me.

[Paragon Hfs-Ntfs converter.](http://www.paragon-software.com/technologies/components/ntfs-hfs-converter/)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: There is [Paragon Partition Manager Free](https://www.paragon-software.com/free/pm-express/) with which you can do this, to format Windows partitions to Apple HFS+.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I am not sure if this question would be more appropriate for stackoverflow, but I thought I'd ask here first.

The other day, I tried running one of my programs against valgrind to check for memory leaks. To my surprise, the terminal reported that valgrind couldn't be found. Additionally, there seems to be no man page for valgrind either.

I am certain I used to have valgrind on this computer, but haven't used it in a while so I can't say when it disappeared. Could this have something to do with my having updated to OS X Lion? Anyone know?<issue_comment>username_1: It is possible that the Lion installation process could have modified your PATH settings to not include the location for valgrind. I would do a search with the **locate** command or similar and see if its sill installed on you mac, somewhere. If you find it on your mac, then you should add valgrind back on to your [path](http://www.tech-recipes.com/rx/2621/os_x_change_path_environment_variable/) . Also it might not be a bad idea to look for an update to it to better support the Lion upgrade. Worst case you will need to re-download and install valgrind.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd start with a spotlight search from terminal `mdfind valgrind` as well as checking your path variable to rule out some simple errors before digging deeper. You will want to ensure you have [Release 3.7.0 of valgrind](http://valgrind.org/downloads/) as it's the first that states compatibility with Lion in the release notes.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I have a third generation iPod touch. I believe that it should be possible to run iOS 5 on this, and I have bought an app that requires iOS 5. However, in iTunes, when I click on the iPod device, it says that my iPod software is up to date. It says that the software version is 4.2.1. I'm registered with Apple with a Belgian account, though I hope this wouldn't make a difference to updates.

Any suggestions appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: You will need to update iTunes to version 10.5 before you update your iPod. The 3rd generation should update to iOS 5. To check the iPod version number follow this KB article.

<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1353?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: According to [Apple](http://www.apple.com/ios/features.html), the 3rd gen iPod Touch can be upgraded to iOS 5. However, you may want to confirm that your iPod is not a 2nd gen version - those can only be upgraded to 4.2.1.

[Apple Support](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1353#iPod_touch_late2009) has the following information to confirm your version ([full page](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1353)):

>
> iPod touch (3rd generation) features a 3.5-inch (diagonal) widescreen
>  multi-touch display and 32 GB or 64 GB flash drive. You can browse the
>  web with Safari and watch YouTube videos with Wi-Fi. You can also
>  search, preview, and buy songs from the iTunes Wi-Fi Music Store on
>  iPod touch.
>
>
> The iPod touch (3rd generation) can be distinguished from iPod touch
>  (2nd generation) by looking at the back of the device. In the text
>  below the engraving, look for the model number. iPod touch (2nd
>  generation) is model A1288, and iPod touch (3rd generation) is model
>  A1318.
>
>
>

Also, per [Apple Support](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4972) - make sure that you've upgraded to iTunes 10.5 before you begin the upgrade.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: If I buy a new iPad with 4G LTE in the United Kingdom, will the 4G LTE work in Sweden (with a SIM from a carrier offering 4G LTE obviously)?

I am asking not least because of statements in [this article](http://bits.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/03/07/lte-appl/) that 4G LTE uses different bands in different countries.<issue_comment>username_1: Here's an article that specifically mentions that the new iPad will *not* support 4G connectivity in Sweden:

>
> While there has been a rapid build-out of 4G networks in the U.S. and countries such as South Korea, LTE is still scarce in Europe. Even in Sweden, one of the few European countries with broad LTE coverage, it seems users of the new iPad won’t be able to make use of the 4G connectivity.
>
>
> Swedish telecom newsletter Telekomnyheterna noted that the new iPad only supports LTE on the 700 MHz and 2100 MHz frequencies. In Sweden the 700 MHz frequency band is used for television broadcasts, while the 2100 band is used for 3G data traffic, and it’s unlikely that any of these bands will be re-farmed to LTE.
>
>
> *Source: <http://blogs.wsj.com/tech-europe/2012/03/08/new-ipad-not-quite-so-fast-in-europe/>*
>
>
>

(The article does leave open the possibility that Apple may still release a different configuration of the new iPad supporting 4G connectivity in Europe.)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Sadly the term "4G" has been co-opted by marketing, and it's hard to know what anyone means when they use it.

[Gizmodo reports](http://www.gizmodo.co.uk/2012/03/will-the-new-ipads-4g-even-work-here-in-the-uk/) that here in the UK, as in the US, each carrier has a different 4G standard, and the iPad 3 as sold here may not work with "4G" on any British carriers. Apple have crammed a huge number of radio protocols into that thing, though, so even if it can't get 4G speeds it can get "3G+" on networks like Three.

The practical answer is that an iPad 3 that you buy in the UK will definitely work on the Swedish mobile networks, and that you're likely to see better speeds that you would with an iPad 2. As @username_1 points out you will definitely not get 4G in Sweden with a British iPad, but you won't really be getting 4G in the UK either.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: No.
===

The LTE standard uses different frequencies in the US and Europe. However, the model sold in Europe is the US model. This has been officially confirmed by Apple [[1, german]](http://www.n-tv.de/technik/iPad-mit-LTE-ist-ein-Witz-article5710506.html).

LTE in the iPad
---------------

The iPad supports only the frequencies 700 and 2100 MHz [[2]](https://www.apple.com/ipad/specs/) for LTE use. **These frequencies are not used *for LTE* in the EU.**

If you take a look at the footnotes, Apple states on their website (US *and foreign*) that:

>
> 4G LTE (is only) supported on AT&T and Verizon networks in the **U.S.**; Bell, Rogers, and Telus networks in **Canada**.
>
>
>

LTE worldwide [[3]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3GPP_Long_Term_Evolution#Frequency_bands)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following frequencies aren't really such even numbers. They are frequency bands that spread out over a whole spectrum of which little fragments are divided among carriers.

* **USA**: 700, 1800, 2100 MHz
* **Canada and Mexico**: 1800, 2100 MHz
* **European Union**: 800, 1800, 2600 MHz \* (bands in use differ widely)
* **Asia in general**: 1800, 2600 MHz
* **Australia**: 1800 MHz

There also exists [this table [4]](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E-UTRA#Frequency_bands_and_channel_bandwidths) which lists very detailed information on frequencies bands used world wide. You can see here that the the 2100 MHz band is used for **UMTS and IMT (= 3G standards)** in Europe. The 700 MHz band does not seem to be used by carries in Europe.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I have a Cannon MP560 that kept having communications errors. One of the suggestions I read was to remove the printer from the print & scan menu and re-add it. Once I did that the scanner disappeared as well and I cannot get OSX 10.7 to recognize this device as a scanner again.

* Does anybody know how I can get OSX to recognize this device as a scanner again?

Here are some screenshots of my print & scan screen and my add printer dialogue. Bonjour does not show me any information about this device either.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fX8Ad.png)

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jgfpy.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Canon has updated most of their software (Easy-PhotoPrintEX, MP Navigator) and their drivers (printer, scanner) around the time when Lion came out. Make sure that you have the latest drivers installed.

You can download all the Canon software for your MP560 Scanner **[here](http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/macosx_lion/multifunction_printers/pixma_mp_series/pixma_mp560#DriversAndSoftware)**.

Also, be sure to connect your printer via cable in order to use it as a scanner:

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/77lYs.jpg)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Have you tried deleting the .plists associated with the printer? These are all in my `~/Library/Preferences` list. I would move them to the desktop (just in case you want to move them back), restart your Mac, and try adding the printer again.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: How to scan wirelessly: if anyone is still interested in using their MP560 scanner wirelessly on OSX Mavericks, I successfully used *Image Capture* from Applications.

Note the printer must be installed and recognized as a wireless printer - the MP560 will show up twice. Initially I had to install the MP560 via USB cable.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: New Scanning Instructions:

Canon MP560 to Mac Computer with OS X Yosemite

(Use USB cable to port)

Go to system Preference

Printer/Scanner Icon

Hit open scanner

Hit scan button and open MP Navigator

Default printer last printer used (MP560)
(Use USB cable to port and indicates on line)

Hit scan

Do selection as needed/required

I set the scan to go desktop to see immediately
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: After updating my Mac to Yosemite, my Canon MX350 wouldn't scan.
Type in
www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer
You'll be on Get Product Support.
Type in your model (eg. PIXMA MX350) click Go.
You should see Operating System Yosemite (detected).
Look for the series Scanner Driver Ver. and click Select.
Then you'll see Download and click that and go through the download "motions.
Restart the computer and your scanner should be working great. I just clicked on the icon MP Navigator EX in my dock and viola, it was all there.
This is how I fixed mine after spending hours watching videos and reading so many suggestions. I just did this and actually figured it out myself.
Hope this can help others!!
Cheers!
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I want to use 2 external monitors along with the MacBook Pro as one Monitor to the left of Macbook Pro, the other one on the right, with Macbook Pro in the middle. Is it possible to do that? How to achieve that?

My Intel Graphics is: Intel HD Graphics 3000 512 MB

I looked over the Internet, I saw [Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter](http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A?fnode=MTY1NDA5OQ) and the other option was using Matrox [TripleHead2Go](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000RMQZ96) Three-Monitor Graphics Expansion - Digital Edition T2G-D3D-IF offer dual monitor & triple monitor functionality. Is this correct? Can something like this be achieved with something similar with low budget in mind?<issue_comment>username_1: [DisplayLink](http://displaylink.com/)
======================================

DisplayLink makes USB graphics adapters for PCs and Macs. You can add as many displays as you have USB ports and processing power.

You would use the built in graphics card for one of your displays and use the USB graphics adapter for the other side. I would suggest using your three displays in the following order:

* **Primary**: MacBook Pro built in display
* **Secondary**: Display connected to Mini DisplayPort
* **Tertiary**: Display connected to USB graphics adapter.

The USB graphics adapter solution is fantastic, but it can be a little slow sometimes.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I've seen [something like this used](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002GHBW4S) and it works well. A good friend of mine has a total of 4 monitors - The MB Pro, the regular display port, and two USBs.

They do run between $50 and $75, but make it easy.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: @Matt and @bassplayer are both correct, but they do not address the links you mentioned in your question.

The Matrox Dual/TripleHead2Go won't work the way you want it to: it makes all the connected monitors appear to be one large monitor to the system, so you wouldn't be able to put the MacBook Pro's monitor between them. (You could, however, put it in the middle, below the big "monitor".)

The dual-link DVI adapter is designed to run one large monitor and will not run two smaller monitors. (This is because of how dual-link DVI was designed, not the adapter.)

The only way to get what you want is to hook one monitor up natively to the mini DisplayPort and use a DisplayLink adapter (like @Matt and @bassplayer mention) for the other. Remember that the DisplayLink-connected monitor won't have the graphics power of the DisplayPort-connected monitor, so play your games on the latter and the internal MBP display.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to figure out how to change the Kotoeri Romaji keyboard layout to the Japanese default layout, using an external Apple US keyboard.

I'm currently running OSX 10.6.8 on a MacBook Pro 6,2. I live in Japan and purchased the laptop along with the OS in Japan. The default language for the OS is also set to Japanese.

Currently I am visiting family in the US and have an external US keyboard which I am trying to use. Unfortunately the default Romaji layout for this keyboard in Kotoeri is set to "US". I have checked the "Kotoeri preferences" section but the romaji layout selector does not have "Japanese 106 key" or anything like that listed. It has a wide range of European layouts.

This is driving me nuts because, although the letters are in the same places, the punctuation on the Japanese layout is different, and after many years in Japan I've grown so used to programming with the Japanese layout that I can no longer touch type efficiently with the US one...

If someone could point me to a way to add options to the kotoeri Romaji layouts I'd be very grateful!<issue_comment>username_1: Short answer: yes, in a way

Long answer: the iPhone 4 is one of several devices with higher pixel density, often expressed in pixels per inch. But such screens are smaller, with a lower total pixel count.

IBM notably released a ThinkPad some years ago with the same pixel count (aka QXGA) but at 15", thus at a lower pixel density. Current monitors with even higher pixel counts are available, but at 27" or 30", even lower pixel density.

The "bragging rights" therefore are in creating higher-density screens at larger sizes, yielding *lots and lots* of super-sharp pixels.

Qualified in the "mobile device" category, there was nothing on the market with a higher pixel count when the third-generation iPad was released. And total pixel count is one of the ways people use the term "resolution"; density is the other.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: *Due to the (good) edit of the question, the answer does not seem fit 100% anymore.*

No.
===

...which depends on what you define as a 'mobile device'. But first, the term **resolution** is ambiguously used which requires to answer your question in two ways.

Resolution as in pixel density
------------------------------

The iPad 3rd Generation has a pixel density of 264 pixels per inch (ppi). There are several other devices that provide higher pixel densities - the most well known to you is probably the iPhone 4(S).

As these belong to the mobile category, **the answer is no**.

```
iPad 3rd Gen                9.7"    2048×1536   264
iPhone/iPod touch 4,4S      3.5"    640×960     326
Rezound                     4.3"    720×1280    342 (HTC)
Touch Diamond, Touch Pro    2.8"    480×640     286 (HTC)
Touch Diamond2              3.2"    480×800     292 (HTC)
LG Optimus LTE              4.5"    720×1280    329 (LG)
LU1400                      2.8"    480×800     333 (LG)

```

You can get a list of more devices **[here](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_displays_by_pixel_density)**.

Resolution as in total pixel count
----------------------------------

The display of the iPad 3rd generation is referred to as **[QXGA (2048×1536)](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphic_display_resolutions#QXGA_.282048.C3.971536.29)**. There are several other devices that provide higher pixel counts - e.g. the Apple iMac.

However, none of the following devices are 'mobile'. They provide higher pixel counts, but over a larger area. Hence, **the answer is yes**.

See this [list of common resolutions](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_common_resolutions) for more devices. *Note:* Some of the resolutions stated there are only on paper - no devices implementing that resolution have been made yet according to the article.

```
Sony GDM-FW900 and Hewlett Packard A7217A   2304×1440    3,317,760
Dell UltraSharp U2711, Apple iMac (WQHD)    2560×1440    3,686,400
Dell Ultrasharp U3011 (WQXGA)               2560×1600    4,096,000

```
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: For this answer, let's define that…

>
> **…the sharpness of a display is the *ability* to distinguish two distinct pixels.**
>
>
>

Retina displays
===============

There is no industry standard for *retina display*, therefore I'll follow Apple's use of the word. The term retina display is *relative*, as the definition follows the **human eyes's perception** of a display's sharpness:

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zWfta.jpg) ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1KWn7.png)

The second picture means "300 ppi is the limit of the human retina at a distance of *10 inch*"!

While the iPhone 4S is commonly used at a distance of about 10 inches to the eye, the iPad will be used at a larger distance - e.g. 15 inches. Therefore, the iPad can have a similar reception by the eye even though the pixel density is lower.

Physical background of 'retina'
===============================

What does the formula mean? Let *alpha* be the angle at which the human retina will see two distinct pixels. ***d*** is the perpendicular distance to the display surface. ***h*** is the distance between two district pixels in one dimension.

Hence, we get:

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ouPdZ.jpg)

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AT78I.png)

As you can see in the table, *the minimum* angle at which the human eye can distinguish two pixels is *larger* than what it can see for both on the iPhone and the new iPad - at normal distances.

**The perception of distinct pixels with the new iPad is even better than with the iPhone 4S**. Apple is being fully reasonable when calling the iPad's display a retina display.

>
> No other tablet can compete in similar measures for PPI and
> display size of the iPad. It's even sharper then the iPhone in normal
> use! It's the sharpest display on the market.
>
>
>

Of course, this assumption is based on the fact that the displays are able to display any two pixels that are next to each other - which @checksum has pointed out in a comment.

Competitors
===========

As mentioned in [this](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/44205/13414) answer, there are competitors with higher pixel densities, but not at the display size of the iPad 4G (9.7''). Furthermore, it's not clear to me if they are able to *display each unique pixel* like it IPS displays used by Apple can.
Upvotes: 4


<issue_start>username_0: *Background:*

I have an iPhone 3GS with iOS 5.1, and a 3G data plan that I keep enabled. I also keep "Location Services" (GPS) always **on**, since I use applications that take advantage of it.

However, I make a point of **keeping Wi-Fi turned off** because it's a battery sucker and I seldom use the phone within range of a base-station for which I'd be authorized – and I dislike the practice of hopping onto unsecured "free" networks, even briefly.

*Scenario:*

Sometimes when I need to look up an address or directions I use the *Maps* app. When I launch the app for the first time in what seems a while, I see a dialog telling me I should **"enable Wi-Fi to improve accuracy"**.

I forget the *exact* text for the dialog, but that's the general message and the buttons are "OK" and "Settings". ("OK" apparently meaning *"I get it, now go away"*, as opposed to *"OK, enable it."*) I find the dialog both irritating, and puzzling. When I dismiss it, I still get an accurate location, far as I can tell!

So I'd like to know:

* **Why is it that Maps is telling me the location accuracy would be *improved* with Wi-Fi enabled?** Is there some problem with GPS that Wi-Fi can somehow compensate for? I fail to see how this would be helpful. Isn't GPS accurate enough?
* In terms of dealing with the annoyance: Is there a way for me to **silence that dialog** once and for all? I dislike continuing to acknowledge something I've been informed of dozens of times already.

Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: The iPhone uses [assisted GPS](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assisted_GPS) to improve the accuracy of the location system using GPS and cell towers. Wi-Fi networks are used to help determine the device's location; this is called a **[hybrid positioning system](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_positioning_system)** (XPS).

Prior to iOS 4 iOS tapped into the [Skyhook Wireless](http://www.skyhookwireless.com/) **database of Wi-Fi hotspots and their locations**. Apple [disclosed in April 2010](http://techcrunch.com/2010/07/29/apple-location/) that they had switched over to their own proprietary database.

>
> If Location Services is on, your device will periodically send the geo-tagged locations of nearby Wi-Fi hotspots and cell towers in an anonymous and encrypted form to Apple, to augment the crowd-sourced database of Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower locations. In addition, if you are traveling (for example, in a car) and Location Services is on, a GPS-enabled iOS device will also periodically send GPS locations and travel speed information in an anonymous and encrypted form to Apple, to be used for building up a crowd-sourced road traffic database. The crowd-sourced location data gathered by Apple does not personally identify you.
>
>
>

For your security concerns, read [this Apple press release](http://www.apple.com/pr/library/2011/04/27Apple-Q-A-on-Location-Data.html).
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The iPhone and iOS in general implements a hybrid GPS which relies on a database of known WiFi spots to pinpoint the user's location faster than with GPS and for added accuracy when conditions for GPS are not optimal (area with high buildings, indoors...).

This database is built from anonymous data collected by iOS devices.

While Apple used to rely on Skyhook for their WiFi location database they now are using their own according to [this article](http://arstechnica.com/apple/news/2010/07/apple-responds-to-congress-swears-location-data-is-private.ars).

>
> According to the response by Apple lead counsel <NAME>, Apple does collect anonymous location data from iPhones in an effort to improve its own database of cell tower and WiFi hotspot locations. Devices running iOS versions older than 3.2 still rely on the databases from Google and Skyhook for these locations...
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Hybrid positioning system (XPS)
===============================

* **[A-GPS](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assisted_GPS)** (Assisted GPS) is a method of localization where both GPS and cellular towers are used (cell-site triangulation) for improved accuracy.
* **WPS** (Wi-Fi Positioning System) is when you use Wi-Fi network identification for localization.
* **[Hybrid positioning system](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_positioning_system)** (XPS) is the combination of both A-GPS and WPS.

**Using this combination you achieve maximum accuracy in both rural and densely populated areas.**

Wikipedia on hybrid positioning:

>
> Hybrid positioning systems are systems for finding the location of a mobile device using several different positioning technologies. Usually **GPS** (Global Positioning System) is one major component of such systems, combined with **cell tower** signals, **wireless internet** signals, Bluetooth sensors or other local Positioning Systems.
>
>
>

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NISBo.jpg)

Here's a comparison of the performance of different localization services:

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nKYTU.jpg)
[[source](http://www.skyhookwireless.com/howitworks/xps.php)]
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: Per [Apple Support](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4995):

>
> **Improving GPS Accuracy**
>
>
> GPS accuracy varies depending on the number of visible GPS satellites.
>  Locating all visible satellites can take several minutes, with
>  accuracy gradually increasing over time. Use these tips to improve GPS
>  accuracy:
>
>
> * Ensure the date, time, and timezone are correctly set on the device in
>  Settings > General > Date & Time. If possible, use "Set
>  Automatically". Important: Incorrect settings on your computer can
>  sync to your device. Verify the date, time, and timezone on any
>  computer that syncs with your device.
> * Verify that you have a cellular
>  or Wi-Fi network connection. This allows the Assisted GPS (A-GPS) on
>  the device to locate visible GPS satellites faster, in addition to
>  providing initial location information using the Wi-Fi or cellular
>  networks. Note: Microcells (sometimes called Femtocells) are not
>  supported with Location Services.
> * Maintain a clear view of the horizon
>  in several directions. Keep in mind that walls, vehicle roofs, tall
>  buildings, mountains, and other obstructions can block line of sight
>  to GPS satellites. When this occurs, your device will automatically
>  use Wi-Fi or cellular networks to determine your position, until the
>  GPS satellites are visible again.
>
>
> **Crowd-sourced Wi-Fi and cellular Location Services**
>
>
> If Location Services is on, your device will periodically send the
>  geo-tagged locations of nearby Wi-Fi hotspots and cell towers in an
>  anonymous and encrypted form to Apple, to augment the crowd-sourced
>  database of Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower locations. In addition, if
>  you are traveling (for example, in a car) and Location Services is on,
>  a GPS-enabled iOS device will also periodically send GPS locations and
>  travel speed information in an anonymous and encrypted form to Apple,
>  to be used for building up a crowd-sourced road traffic database. The
>  crowd-sourced location data gathered by Apple does not personally
>  identify you.
>
>
>

In short, iOS uses crowd-sourced Wi-Fi in Apple's database to help fine-tune GPS measurements.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: If you haven't used GPS for awhile, the GPS chipset won't have a current GPS almanac and ephemeris information. It takes up to a minute to gather enough of that information from the data the GPS satellites are sending to get a good fix, and it takes longer to collect a complete almanac and ephemeris information.

If the device can narrow its location down to a few hundred feet then it can send that information to Apple's servers and they can generate enough of that information to get the GPS chipset to lock on to the satellites much more quickly. This is often referred to as "assisted GPS," although that title is relatively misleading in many ways.

In theory it would be able to get that information from nearby cell towers, but historically iPhone ran on GSM, which had poor tower positioning capabilities when the iPhone first came out. Apple decided to go with wifi positioning primarily, and cell tower positioning secondarily.

So yes, you will receive a better position faster if you are near a wifi hotspot that apple has mapped (and due to its data collection program it's got a **lot** of wifi signals mapped) if you enable wifi.

I do not believe there's a way to disable the alert requesting you turn on your wifi.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I don't have much more than anecdotal evidence to back this up, but I'm fairly certain the WiFi is also used to assist Apple's [Region Monitoring](http://developer.apple.com/library/ios/#documentation/CoreLocation/Reference/CLLocationManager_Class/CLLocationManager/CLLocationManager.html#//apple_ref/occ/instm/CLLocationManager/startMonitoringForRegion%3adesiredAccuracy%3a) feature.

There's a post in the developer forums (I can't find the link, and I think you might need a developer account to access it anyways) from an Apple employee in late 2010 or early 2011 that indicates region monitoring is based only on cell towers (not the hardware GPS).

We were having an issue today in an app we're testing where regions weren't being picked up by a particular phone. Then we realized it was the only phone with WiFi turned off (the others were on, but "Not connected"). When we turned the WiFi on, suddenly it started picking up everything.

As such, if you intend to use apps like Banjo, Highlight, or anything using Geoloqi, I'd suggest turning your WiFi on for a better experience.
Upvotes: 1