<issue_start>username_0: In Font Book.app one of the criteria for creating a Smart Collection is "Design style".

![Font Book.app Smart Collection dialog](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AMccc.png)

How does Font Book.app determine whether or not a given font falls into one of the available categories?<issue_comment>username_1: That kind of info is often included in the metadata of the font file itself, especially in OTF files. It is usually the type designer or foundry that categorizes the font in the first place.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: OK, I think I figured it out... Opening a font in [RoboFont](http://doc.robofont.com/download/), I scoured all the obscure meta-info available and finally found the entry that seems to correspond to what FontBook uses for the *Design Style* in the section called [Panose](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PANOSE) (a term I had never heard of!). Long story short... FontBook seems to probably use the `Proportion` to determine the style.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zoht0.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I am searching for a RDP implementation on OS X, but can't find any.

Does OS X have an RDP implementation application?<issue_comment>username_1: I believe iRAPP from CodeRebel may fit the bill <http://www.coderebel.com/products/irapp>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I've never used it, but give [xrdp](http://www.xrdp.org/) a look - bet that iRAPP will be your best option.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I was a licensed iRAPP user, but yesterday the application started saying License was Expired.

I installed the OSXxRDP bridge and it serves up an Xrdp service to the native OSX VNC server. So I connect to OSX using the native built-in RDP client from Win7

My old RDP shortcut connects to it and even autoscaling still works.. which is nice for resizing the Window when the OSX resolution is set high and I want to shrink it down to a smaller window on my desktop. Best of both worlds. It doesn't forward audio.. and its not multichannel, so no services like remote print to printers on the Mac.. but serves the purpose of avoiding installing a VNC client on Windows.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I, too, was a loyal user of iRAPP. CodeRebel is still in bankruptcy as of today. There's a new company, <https://www.nuords.com/>, that the CTO of CodeRebel has co-founded to sell comparable technology. I have not tested this product; I don't know whether the IP issues have been resolved.

xrdp works on Sierra (I'm using it right now). The compilation instructions can be found on these two pages:

<https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xrdp/wiki/Building-on-OSX-(not-official)>
<https://github.com/neutrinolabs/xorgxrdp/issues/78>

The instructions work with macports as well as homebrew; on macports, the final package you need is pkgconfig rather than pkg-config, and you don't have to work around the absence of OpenSSL. It took me about 15 minutes from start to finish to get it running.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: There is one, called XRDP.
<https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/how-to-control-your-mac-using-win-rdp-client-xrdp-compiling-guide-on-osx.1770325/>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I have nothing against OSXxRDP, but I'm truly amazed how you guys are pushing untrue information about iRAPP. Yes, CodeRebel went down, but their licensing servers were taken over by developers and they were supporting iRAPP for free. There was not any down time. Also, If your license is not a trial, it can not expire. Only support subscription could expire, which is not a problem for the installed version. Just saying, be honest in competition. By the way, there is a new product <https://www.nuords.com/>
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: Today I tried opening the App Store to update some software, but when it opens I am left with a blank screen:

![Blank App Store Screen](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kASoem.png)

Also, when I click on the menu items in the top bar, multiple items will highlight in blue (but the blank screen will not change):

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1bbe.png)

Does anyone know why this is happening? I am using Mac OSX 9.1 (Mavericks).<issue_comment>username_1: I had the same problem today..tried rebooting and working fine now.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm new to Mac and I thought my App Store wasn't working as all buttons were greyed out. Turns out I had no Internet connection :-(

I feel a bit stupid but you'd think OSX would pop up a quick error message telling me that.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: I killed all `store*` processes in Activity Monitor. Then relaunched App Store and it started working.
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_4: I just had this problem, poked around online, and solved it by resetting the NVRAM. It's generally my second go-to solution if rebooting doesn't fix it.

Here are the Mavericks NVRAM reset instructions:

<http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14222?viewlocale=en_US>

>
> **Resetting NVRAM**
>
>
> 1. Shut down your Mac.
> 2. Locate the following keys on the keyboard: Command (⌘), Option, P, and R.
> 3. Turn on your Mac.
> 4. Press and hold the Command-Option-P-R keys immediately after you hear the startup sound.
> 5. Hold these keys until the computer restarts and you hear the startup sound for a second time.
> 6. Release the keys.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Found Safari would not open any sites, however VNC worked fine. Go to Preference, Network, advance button at bottom, then look at the DNS tab. I found both DNS Servers and Search Domains were blank. Added my DNS info and Domains to search. Started to work. :)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Same problem. Tried all the solutions mentioned in this and other threads. Opened iTunes on a whim and saw the system could not authenticate the various CERTS associated with Apple. Looked that up. Found that the solution was to purge your current key store and then reboot. Voila.

In my case, I'm assuming my keystore "corruption" happened because of a system lock up which required a hard reboot. But this solved it.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: Mine would always freeze when trying to open it, I tried killing the processes, signing out through iTunes, restarting, and nothing worked. I ended up updating the OS and iTunes through terminal and once I restarted the app store worked again!

From terminal, typing

>
> softwareupdate -l
>
>
>

will give you the available updates. Then you can install them doing something similar to:

>
> softwareupdate -i OSXUpd10.10.4-10.10.4
>
>
>

based off the list of available updates.

Source: <http://osxdaily.com/2015/07/01/fix-frozen-app-store-updates-and-high-softwareupdated-cpu/>
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_8: Certificate solution did not work for me, reboot did not work for me.

Killed storeuid process under my user account, opened App Store and it was fixed.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_9: First, close the app store or itunes, etc. I fixed this by opening a terminal, then getting a super user terminal: sudo su - enter your password now be careful. You are root.

Next we want to kill all the App Store related processes. This doesn't hurt anything. Let's find them using the ps command and then using the grep search utility to get down to what we want.

```
MacBook-Pro:~ root# ps -ef |grep store |grep -vi google
  501  9284     1   0 21Dec15 ??         0:08.90 /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/CommerceKit.framework/Versions/A/Resources/storeassetd
  501  9349     1   0 21Dec15 ??         0:00.73 /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/CommerceKit.framework/Versions/A/Resources/storeinappd
  501  9353     1   0 21Dec15 ??         0:01.91 /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/CommerceKit.framework/Versions/A/Resources/storedownloadd
  501  9459     1   0 21Dec15 ??         0:00.17 /System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/CommerceKit.framework/Versions/A/Resources/storelegacy

```

The second column is the process ID we want. We want to use the kill command:

```
kill 9284 9349 9353 9459

```

The numbers will be different on your PC. Open up app store and it should work! I have also read other ways - removing some verisign keys from the key chain app, and others, but this is what fixed me.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_10: I've been having the same issue under OS X 10.11 El Capitan where the App Store would open to a blank page and no errors were listed.

The main solutions I have seen on multiple sites are:

1. Kill "store" Processes (see this thread)
2. Zap NVRAM (Used to be called PRAM) [Reboot and hold down command-option-p-r until it cycles through the reboot sound 2-3 times]
3. Use the terminal commands to delete preference files (plist)
4. Remove Anti-Virus/Mal-ware software
5. Check network settings and remove any proxies
6. In the App Store Go to the Store menu and "Sign Out"

#4 and #5 didn't apply to me

I did perform #3 but didn't see any help from that.

What worked for me was a combination of killing the processes (#1), restarting the App Store, and "Sign Out" (#6). Which worked great -- I had a bunch of pending updates.

But then I rebooted and the issue of the empty App Store came back. This time I tried just the "Sign Out" and that didn't work. Killed the processes and opened the App Store and it worked.

I'm going to experiment with the NVRAM zapping and see if that works on a permanent basis. Otherwise I'll open up a bug report with Apple.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I would like to be able to copy and paste multiple items on a Mac using key shortcuts.

For example, `⌘``1` would copy item 1 and `⌘``2` would copy item 2, etc.

Then `⌘``!` would paste item 1 and `⌘``@` would paste item 2.

If there is already a program for this please let me know or if you can make me one. Also I need it to be a free program.<issue_comment>username_1: Slightly different implementation, but will do what you want:

[LaunchBar](http://www.obdev.at/products/launchbar/index.html) keeps a history of your clipboard, so you can copy multiple things using the usual keyboard combo `⌘` - `C` and then paste them using (for me, I may have changed from the default):

* hold down `⌘`
	+ tap `\` to view clipboard history
	+ tap `↓` until desired clipping is selected
* release `⌘`

I've found it to be a pretty useful workflow. I do have to flush the clipboard history after dealing with passwords though. I keep it set at 10 items to limit my exposure if I forget.

Launchbar is free to try and $35 to buy.

I'm not sure how they limit the free version now, but back before I bought it they let you do five types of activities per login, so you could do the copy, paste, and clipboard history deletion freely without running into the limit

I do not use it because I've found Launchbar to be more useful, but it looks like [Alfred](http://www.alfredapp.com) includes clipboard history in the unlimited free version.

Based on the screenshot it looks like Alfred uses shortcuts closer to what you wanted.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: From what I remember [CopyPastePro](http://plumamazing.com/mac/copypaste) is pretty close to what you want. I haven't used it much since OS X was released, they were very slow with their OS X rewrite. I currently use [Alfred](http://www.alfredapp.com) for my clipboard needs, but that implementation isn't as close to what you describe as CopyPastePro is.

I used [PTHPasteboard Pro](http://pth.com/products/pthpasteboard/) for several years. It is probably the most powerful pasteboard utility that I used. IIRC it is probably the closest to what you describe and with some setup can be configured to work exactly as you describe.

None of these are free, but they are all reasonably priced.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I use clipmenu, it's been great, lots of customizable shortcuts: <http://www.clipmenu.com/>

Here's what I like about it:

1. Easy keyboard combo, hit `⌘` + `⇧ Shift` + `V` (or customize it) and it brings up a small sensible fully keyboard navigable menu where you can select from your recent clipboard entries.
2. You can also optionally add saved snippets of text, I put my stupid auto generated Oracle password in there, win!
3. And other than that, it's stable and stays out of the way, you can configure it to start automatically on startup, so you never are without it, it's a life saver
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: I really like Flycut. Available here: <https://github.com/TermiT/Flycut>

Like all of the other answers here, it's a clipboard manager which stores every item you copy using `⌘` + `c` in a list. Then you can press `⌘` + `⇧ Shift` + `v` to see a list of the items you have copied and choose one to paste.

Unlike the other answers here, it's free, open source, and doesn't come with a load of other functionality. Also it is actively maintained unlike clipmenu (last release ClipMenu 1.0.0a1 released Nov 11, 2014).
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_5: I used to use clipmenu but I moved onto an updated fork with more recent support called [Clipy](https://clipy-app.com/).

It has the same shortcuts as clipmenu (`⌘`+`Shift`+`V` to open the list of items to paste, etc) but the interface is a bit cleaner (also easier to edit Snippets).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I use CopyPro. <https://copypro.app> It saves your cut / copy history and you can paste the 10 most recent items with command, control, and/ or fn + 0-9 number keys. You can also edit and reorder the copy history easily and also to open at login by default and run in the background so you never loose any copied text you might accidentally overwrite.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: As a 'generic' answer, there are lots of clipboard managers on the Mac App Store, and elsewhere, that store successive entries from the clipboard, or multiple clipboards.

Many of the existing answers have since been abandoned, and as recommendation QnAs are discouraged, I'm not going to cite specific examples!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: I'm coming back to macOS after decades on Windows and the built-in multi-clipboard is something I quickly realized I couldn't live without.

[CopyClip](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/copyclip-clipboard-history/id595191960?mt=12) seems to be the lightest-weight, free option available in the Mac App Store.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_9: Alfred is not the best solution, but every other things mentioned here are many many worse

I use Alfred with custom UI skin, removing all the messing colors and its logo, to make it more look like Spotlight

Hope, apple'll implement multiple clipboard/clipboard history in the Spotlight.

upd:

<https://www.alfredapp.com/alfred-5-whats-new/>

Brief description:

* every action has customisable hotkey, e.g. open history, select, join-copy,,,
* history is centred floating alfred panel-window
* history might be infinite, i use it as my Knowledge Base! Never more notes for some commands phrases etc.
* also it have snippets as a continuation of infinite clipboard. Sadly. User should manually add items to snippets.
* many many settings. join-copy is configurable too
* and much more
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_9: I found right now the new tool — Raycast!
It looks combination of power of Alfred and beauty of Spotlight!
Will try. Yes, it has a clipboard history. Will update answer

<https://www.raycast.com/>

[![raycast clipboard history!](https://i.stack.imgur.com/onTBW.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/onTBW.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_10: Have a look at <https://maccy.app/> . One can simply install it via brew

```
brew install --cask maccy

```
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: My iPhone is no longer on I'm using it as an iPod for now but I cant connect to the wifi ; like the wifi is greyed out. I restarted and rest it , it's not on air plane mode or anything. How do I fix my phone?<issue_comment>username_1: So you can see the wi-fi networks list but you can't connect to your specific wi-fi or...?

To be sure it's not some weird problem with iOS you should probably just "Restore iPhone..." with iTunes and check for an iOS update while you're at it.

[from Apple's instructions](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1414?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: that is a trick you may tried it out, it's work for me for now.

1) use air dryer heat up your phone at the top part(you can aim on the headphone jack) until you iphone shown up the temperature screen.

2) When the temperature screen show up , turn off you phone (caution! the phone is very HOT).

3)After it is off pit it into a zip lock bag.

4)Let it rest for 1-2min and then put into the freezer for 30Min

5)When you take it out let it remain in zip lock bag and turn on the phone ( it may show battery low screen. If it's happen wait for a while and try turn it on again)

6) You are done!! you fix your wifi.

It will grayed out again whenever you update to a newer version of ios, so if that happen redo this proccess. So far it work for me, you may give it a try..
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I have a MacBookPro OS X 10.7.5 from 2011. When trying to boot it has a slow startup or login, with numerious spinning wheels. Sometimes after a long time I can sign into the computer and sometimes it just fails to startup or login.

It became more serious recently as I think I might have let my battery run out. Once it did boot and I also tried to download the operating system to reinstall it but it allways stops around 1.4 GB out of 1.7 then the wheel spinning started again.

Now it wont boot at all, so I tried to boot in in safe mode. After the shift key it took about a half hour until the time bar at the bottom filled up, and when it did the screen went black. When it hit the start button it went back to the safe startup screen with the gray apple, spinning wheel and bar filling up at the bottom.<issue_comment>username_1: The "invalid node structure" and "disk I/O" errors you see in verbose mode are both indicative of a failing hard drive.

The invalid node structure points to a problem with the data cataloging mechanism of the operating system, basically that system that keeps track of where all the data is stored. One off reports of this aren't so bad but coupled with the issues you're seeing and the other error message I imagine it's a result of a failing drive.

The Disk I/O error pops up when the hard drive is inaccessible, either for a split second or several minutes. This can usually be attributed to any of the following:

* SATA port on the logic board going bad (not very likely)
* Hard drive cable going bad (somewhat likely)
* The hard drive itself failing or starting to fail (much more likely)

Because the disk is temporarily unavailable you often see system corruption (such as the invalid node structure error above) occur as a result.

So, what to do from here...

* Definitely don't try to install a new operating system. The process of doing so is one of the most taxing procedures a hard drive is likely to go through in normal use, on a failing drive it can stress it to the point of complete failure.
* Backup your data if you haven't already. If your Mac does manage to boot again I would strongly encourage you to copy whatever important data you might have (pictures, documents, etc) to a thumb drive or external hard drive. If you're unable to do this then I would recommend checking with local AASPs (see two paragraphs down) to see about data recovery options.
* Repair. Depending on your comfort level working with computers you might attempt to repair your Mac yourself. As I mentioned, the hard drive is the most likely culprit, iFixit has a guide that walks you through the process - [MacBook Pro hard drive replacement](http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Late+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/7656). Almost any 2.5" SATA hard drive will work as a replacement.
* If you prefer to have someone else repair it you can find Apple Authorized Service Providers (AASPs) and Apple retail stores using [Apple's locate tool](https://locate.apple.com). If your Mac is under warranty (you can check with [this tool](https://selfsolve.apple.com/agreementWarrantyDynamic.do)) then the repair would likely be covered by both Apple and/or an AASP so long as it wasn't a result of accidental damage. If it's not covered then I would get a quote from each shop.

Hopefully that helps or at the very least gets you started.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The above answer is wrong. I have repaired many disks with this error and they are all still running (and smart reporting as fine) years later.

Try this, in order to fix it (I posted this to the apple forums a couple years ago and I am still getting emails from people thanking me, so we know it works).

Invalid Node Structure is not a hardware failure, it never was (you may still have a hardware failure, but the Invalid Node error is not indicative of this problem.

Still, Disk utility will certainly fail to fix it, and DiskWarrior will probably fail too.

But don't despair. Try this, and don't give up till you've tried it at least three times.

First, get the name of the partition of the failing volume. You can get it most easily by finding your disk in Disk Utility, selecting your partition (not the drive) and type cmd-i. Look for "Disk Identifier" right at the top.

Then, open up Terminal, and type this:

```
sudo /sbin/fsck_hfs -yprd /dev/disk5s2

```

substituting your disk identifier for the one already here. Keep the `/dev/` part. Enter your password, and wait. It may take a while. I have had this fail several times before finally working so its important to keep trying. It's faster than a reformat!!!

If the afflicted disk is your startup disk, you will need to do this in recovery mode: restart the computer, hold down option, and wait for the disk options to appear. Select that, then proceed to Disk Utility and then Terminal as described above.

Good luck, and always keep a backup!
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: When using Chrome notifications on OS X, how can I set the notifications to appear across two monitors simultaneously?

I'm using a Macbook Pro and a Thunderbolt Display, and Chrome notifications - for example, a notification of a new message on Meta Chat - only display on the Macbook Pro. I would like the notifications to display on both monitors.

I have tried:

* Going into the 'Settings' of Chrome Notifications, which only allows
users to change what sites can send them notifications.
* Apple's Notification Center looks to control Apple's native notifications, rather than Chrome notifications.<issue_comment>username_1: [video Mirroring](http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5019)
=====================================================

>
> Mirroring displays the same image on each display.
>
>
> * 1) Make sure your additional display is properly connected and powered on.
> * 2) From the Apple () menu, choose System Preferences.
> * 3) From the View menu, choose Displays.
> * 4) Click the Arrangement tab.
> * 5) Enable (check) "Mirror Displays" in the bottom-left corner.
>
>
> In the example below. the blue boxes represent each display that is connected. The white bar at the top of both boxes represents your menu bar and is shown on both displays when they are showing the same information.
>
>
> ![Display Prefs](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoeoX.png)
>
>
>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: **This is currently not possible.**

Google Chrome uses its own code for displaying notifications which Keyboard Maestro doesn't seem to be able to interact with. There appears to be no AppleScript for even detecting notifications and Google Chrome seems to refuse to provide the content of the message to Keyboard Maestro for any sort of macro.

Also, sending Chrome notifications to Growl also doesn't help since Growl still can't show notifications on multiple displays:

* [How can I show Growl notifications on both displays?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/39927/how-can-i-show-growl-notifications-on-both-displays)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_1: multiple Chrome instances with multiple profiles
------------------------------------------------

I didn't originally specify, but the idea is you have one instance of Chrome running on one display, and another running on another, and you are logged into the same Google account from both. In theory, this should give you the exact functionality you want. You should be able to close all the windows of one of the instances, and hide the application, and still see the notifications pop up (if the notifications steal focus).

---

Open up /Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app

type at the prompt

```
josh2note@stack:~$
josh2note@stack:~$
josh2note@stack:~$ mkdir Chrome\ Profile\ Secondary
josh2note@stack:~$ /Applications/Google\ Chrome.app/Contents/MacOS/Google\ Chrome --user-data-dir=Chrome\ Profile\ Secondary &
josh2note@stack:~$
josh2note@stack:~$

```

Drag the Chrome window that appears to your secondary display. Log into your Google account.

Go back to the terminal.

type at the prompt

```
josh2note@stack:~$
josh2note@stack:~$
josh2note@stack:~$
josh2note@stack:~$ mkdir Chrome\ Profile\ Main
josh2note@stack:~$ /Applications/Google\ Chrome.app/Contents/MacOS/Google\ Chrome --user-data-dir=Chrome\ Profile\ Main &
josh2note@stack:~$

```

Leave the Chrome window that appears on the main display and log into the same Google account.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_1: From experience I know that developers are very accomodating.

If you want this feature, you should, and get all your friends also to, go to register and request this feature at the [Google Chrome Feature Requests and Suggestions Forum](http://chromespot.com/forum/chrome-feature-requests-and-suggestions/). You'd be surprised how well that works.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I just noticed on my Mavericks' Finder today that there are two different Applications folders. One located under **Main HD**:

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aiIXX.png)

And the other one at **Main HD -> Users -> Amit**:

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLoiQ.png)

What's the difference between the two and why is one full while the other empty? Also, I did notice that my **Main HD** no longer shows the **Users** folder even though it's there. The **Users** folder wasn't always invisible. While it's no big deal, I am really curious as to why it would suddenly go undercover without me doing anything to it!<issue_comment>username_1: >
> 1. **The Application folder inside your home folder is for apps which are restricted to your user.** So some applications choose to "install"
>  or copy their application in this folder. It's based on the decision
>  of the app creator. But most of the apps are installed in the
>  /Applications folder.
> 2. **Apple decided to hide the /Users folder**. That's it.
>
>
>

With this command:

```
sudo chflags nohidden /Users

```

unhides it.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As to what made Apple (rather than "Mac," Apple is the company, Mac the product) make the /Users folder invisible?

Probably the username_4e reason they made the ~/Library folder invisible. they (likely) thought that you don't need access to it, only your own home folder.

And for "power users" who want or need access, it is easy enough to fix as shown above.

Some people upgraded to the new Mavericks 10.9.3 and their /Users folder was not hidden. So there may be a bug somewhere. Whether it is hiding the /Users folder or **not** hiding it remains to be seen in any following updates.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Ok, the mystery of the missing Users folder is finally solved. Like I had said in my question, it wasn't always hidden and went undercover only recently of its own accord. <NAME>'s answer that this has something to do with upgrade to 10.9.3 is also only partially correct. Since none of the respondents have given an accurate explanation and I just discovered the answer elsewhere, I am posting my findings for others to benefit.

The folder has gone into hiding only for those who have upgraded to iTunes 11.2 and have their "Find My Mac" turned on. Not sure why but this is the only user group that has been affected, me being one of them. Also, the solution provided by 2DD8847 is not permanent as changing the flag to no hidden from the command line will only bring back the folder for the prevailing session. Reboot your Mac and it will be gone again!

A more permanent solution involves using AppleScript and is given [here](http://www.cultofmac.com/279482/solving-mystery-os-xs-missing-user-folders/).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the username_4e issue, the only explanation i can guess that , the reason it went hidden as an impact from a Spyware script that was installed with an infected dmg file of one of the software downloaded recently from cNet
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I accidentally placed a magnetic mount antenna near my hard drive while my computer was running.

It then made horrible noises, and stopped working, and everything froze.

Now, every time I start my system up, it makes the noise, and does not recognise any hard drive what so ever.

I am going to take it into the apple store, I have apple care, but what do you think the chances are of me being able to recover files from the drive? Do you think stuff got smashed around in there when it did that?<issue_comment>username_1: You are likely doomed. The store gurus will go over data recovery options and explain they don't fix damaged drives, they are simply going to ask about the status of your backup and whether you want them to test the operation and see if it needs to be exchanged under warranty / AppleCare.

Some things to try on dead and near dead drives include putting them on their end or sides rather than having them oriented flat - this is because the read/write heads that sit between the actual disc platters may respond better then they are held vertically by gravity rather than horizontally by their precision engineering which sounds like it;s been compromised. Give it a go, see if it sounds any better (assuming you are not using an iMac where they are are already mounted this way).

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: you DO have a backup of your data? (I hope). I would contact Drive Savers. I doubt if Apple can recover your data, but Drive Savers might be able too. You best bet would be to get a new drive and restore from your backup.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Step 1: Stop doing anything with the computer. Anything you do will likely make the situation worse.

Step 2: How much is the data worth to you?

It sounds like your drive had a mechanical failure. In this case, your best bet for recovery is to send it off to a professional data-recovery company. This will cost you about a thousand dollars, and they probably won't be able to recover everything.

If your data isn't worth a thousand dollars, you can play around with the drive. Try running the computer in different orientations (on its side, upside-down, etc) in case the bearings work better when loaded differently. Try sticking the hard drive in the freezer (in a bag to keep moisture from condensing) for a few hours to see if differential thermal expansion frees things up. Try rotating the drive rapidly around the spindle axis to free the bearings manually. But keep in mind that the most likely outcome of doing all this is the total destruction of the drive and all data on it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: assuming the magnet was powerful enough to mess up the actuator magnet (my guess as to what happened), then the data on the plates is probably beyond messed up. just a guess. move on with your life ;p

<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_drive#Components>

as for the sideways comment, you do realize the magnetic attraction of the head to the plate is about 10,000 times stronger than that, right ;o and in fact, by operating a drive sideways you are indeed causing a small bit of uneven force, as in, less force required for the head to move down that up. although again, doesn't real make a real-world difference.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Chance is very little, like 5%. But it would probably recover only a few bits. Try to back up data every time. Or buy a SSD, they are fast and reliable.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I would like make sure, how push in iOS works. Is it just about frequent requests to the servers?

Second question is how iMessage works? It is free of cost, works over the Internet (using the data transfer), but it is also based on frequent requests to some server or it is somehow classical GSM BTS backed?<issue_comment>username_1: If you can handle going from a 27" screen to a 13" screen (even though it's retina, the 'apparent' resolution is set quite low), then the rest of the system is *fast*.

Of course, you would want as much RAM and SSD as you can afford (you can't upgrade it later), but there is nothing to worry about with the CPU or the SSD speed.

In fact, the SSD alone will make it seem SUPER fast compared to a 3-4 year-old iMac (assuming it didn't have an SSD in it also).

If you needed an external GPU, then your only laptop Mac option these days is the top-end 15" Retina MBP, but that's larger and quite a bit more expensive than the 13" models.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It depends on your precise using of your iMac. Normally the 13" will fit but if you want a little more power you should think about the processor upgrade to i7. If you´ve more demands to the graphic card you also should think about the 15" because of a better retina graphic card (Intel Iris Pro Graphic instead of Intel Iris Graphic) or a second graphic card.

Highly recommend is a upgrade to the max RAM: 16GB.

If you don´t need a large SSD at the moment lay back and save your money. Later you could swap the SSD. Differently to the RAM (which is soldered to the logic board) the SSD is swapable. Please have a look at [iFixIt](http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Retina+Display+Late+2013+Teardown/18695)

You could compare the details on the [technical specs site](https://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs-retina/).
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I just got this monitor, [http://www.amazon.com/Seiki-SE39UY04-39-Inch-Ultra-120Hz/dp/B00DOPGO2G](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00DOPGO2G)

When I plug it into my MBP's HDMI port, the highest resolution I can choose on it under the "scaled" option is 1080p. Why is this? I've upgraded OSX to 10.9.3 but it has not helped me at all. Any ideas? I've also tried using a thunderbolt to hdmi adapter but that didn't work either.<issue_comment>username_1: Holding the `Option` key while clicking on Scaled should show you all the options for that display.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Straight from the [Apple Spec Sheet](http://support.apple.com/kb/sp658) for that model:

>
> Dual display and video mirroring: Simultaneously supports full native resolution on the built-in display and up to 2560 by 1600 pixels on up to two external displays, at millions of colors
>
>
>

Looks like that model does not support 4K displays
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: New Mac/OSX user here. Thanks to google I've come up with this automator script:

```
on run {input, parameters}

    tell application "Finder"
        activate
        make new Finder window to home
    end tell

    # return input
end run

```

I saved this as `~/Library/Services/New Finder Window Home.workflow`.

In `System Preferences/Keyboard/Shortcuts/Services/General/New Finder Window Home` I assigned it a new shortcut key `ALT`+`CMD`+`e`. It's supposed to mimic `Win`+`e` key on Windows.

On every application I see this script in the top menu in `/Services/New Finder Window Home` and pressing that combination works.

**Except in Finder itself**

In Finder itself, this script does nothing. I would like to behave it the same way as everywhere else: just open me my home directory.

**Solution thanks to Thomas**

It seems I need to assigned this to the `Service` **and** as part of the `App Shortcuts` with the same shortcut (would be great if someone could explain that too).<issue_comment>username_1: You can also configure hot corner to achieve this.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I am pretty sure this feature is called "Application Windows". If you go to System Settings -> Mission Control, in the bottom section is a list of four items you can attach to keyboard shortcuts. This feature is called "Application windows" in that list.

Additionally, you can enable a Hot Corner for it: Click the Hot Corners button in the bottom left of the Mission Control settings; you should be able to specify a special action for moving your mouse into each corner of your screen. This feature is called "Application Windows" in the list of options.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I've got iPhone 4S and I wanna sell it...I have backed up contacts on <http://icloud.com> ...Does contacts remain on <http://icloud.com> after reseting all iPhone settings?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, the contacts you have backed up to iCloud will remain after using the “Erase all the content and settings” feature on your iPhone.

To fully erase an iPhone to avoid important data being recovered for illegal usage, see the guide:
[5 Methods to Erase iPhone Completely and Securely](http://www.iphonebackup-extractor.com/articles/how-to-erase-iphone/)

If you want to delete the contacts in your iCloud account, see the “Delete backups and turn off Backup for your device” section in this guide:
<http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4847>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes, the contacts remain in iCloud. However, once you reset the iPhone to factory settings, the iPhone is no longer logged in to your iCloud account which means that there are no contacts appearing on the iPhone whatsoever.

You can further log in to your iCloud account on your computer via a web browser (icloud.com) and erase the contacts from there if you wish.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: All iOS VNC clients I have tried use regular VNC authentication. This is insecure because of the 8 character limit on the password, and so on. Some apps such as RealVNC's VNC Viewer, does have info panels that report whether the connection is encrypted, and it never says that it is, even when I turn both checkboxes in the System Preferences under Screen Sharing's `Computer Settings...` off.

So, I am definitely taking the accepted answer to [this question](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/19318/is-apples-screen-sharing-tool-secure) with a grain of salt.

It seems that the only way to go about this is to switch OS X's native Screen Sharing option off entirely, and then use some other method to host VNC securely. This is not a free option, though.<issue_comment>username_1: The answer to that question is correct, but there are some nuances.

Screen Sharing server supports 4 authentication types:

1. Mac OS X user login / password
2. Apple ID
3. Request for observe / control ("Anyone may request permission to control screen")
4. VNC password ("VNC viewers may control screen with password")

Whenever the built-in Screen Sharing client (Cmd+K in Finder) connects to a Screen Sharing server, it uses only types 1, 2 and 3. Then server enables traffic encryption that may work in one of two modes: *full encryption* or *keystroke/mouse move encryption*. You could select encryption mode in earlier versions of Mac OS X, but in 10.8 (AFAIR) they removed this option, so Screen Sharing connection is always fully encrypted.

AFAIK there are only two third-party iOS clients that support Screen Sharing authentication types: [Screens](http://edovia.com/screens/) and [Remotix](http://nulana.com/remotix-ios/). Both can use authentication types 1 and 3 with *keystroke/mouse move encryption*, but it seems that *full encryption* is provided only by Remotix.

Note that if a client uses VNC password (type 4) to connect to Screen Sharing server, then encryption is disabled at all.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [MochaVNC lite](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mocha-vnc-lite/id284984448?mt=8 "iTunes Preview MochaVNC lite") uses Mac OS X user login / password.
I've been using it forever and don't even remember how long ago they added Mac OS credential authentication. Unlike most other apps that support this feature you do not need the paid version. I use it sporadically mainly to perform software updates to a headless mac mini that is my home server and iTunes video library server.

Since I only use it locally I didn't really look into the security features it has. It is a free solution with a paid $6 version but I really haven't looked into the paid differences since the free solution works with screen sharing for me. As a side note, my mac mini works much better now that I bought a HDMI video dongle. It used to be very sluggish even though its on ethernet, turns out a headless mac mini doesn't use the video card unless there is a monitor (dongle) plugged in.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: So there are a couple of iOS apps that "scan" documents and automatically do some processing to make the image look like a quality scan from a real scanner.

When I'm trying this on the Mac with pictures from a DSLR manually with Photoshop the results are usually not as good as what these apps achieve.

Therefore I'm looking for either a Mac app or instructions for Photoshop on how to achieve this. Or maybe even an Automator script.

Just to be clear: I do not need OCR!<issue_comment>username_1: You can use [**ScanTailor**](http://scantailor.org).

>
> Scan Tailor is an interactive post-processing tool for scanned pages. It performs operations such as page splitting, deskewing, adding/removing borders, and others. You give it raw scans, and you get pages ready to be printed or assembled into a PDF or DJVU file.
>
>
>

The program is developed for Windows, GNU / Linux, and other Unix-like systems such as Mac OS X. See [Installation](https://github.com/scantailor/scantailor/wiki/User-Guide#installation-and-first-start) . You might need to build it from source though.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I found this Photoshop tutorial that might help. It's a semi-broken webpage without the images.
<https://tricky-photoshop.com/make-document-looks-like-scanned-copy-photoshop>
There's a video there that was useful
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiwvTHLJ0gc&feature=emb_logo>
Essentially, it looks like they crop, level to get rid of gray, then increase contrast before running it all through a high pass filter. I used it with a color photo (so I skipped black and white) and it looked pretty good.
I had the same question and am not a photoshop expert. But the instructions worked for me.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I've changed my mind about having Safari/iCloud Keychain never remember my password for a given website. I'd like to remove that setting and store the password, but I can't find any ability to delete/change it anywhere. I've already gone into Settings->Safari->Passwords & Autofill -> Saved Passwords, and the website in question *does not* show up in the list with a 'never' entry to delete.

How can I make Safari forget to keep forgetting this login info?<issue_comment>username_1: Manually enter your username and password. Tap "Passwords" right above your keyboard. Tap "Save This Password." It still won't autofill when you first load the page, but now you can tap in the username field and hit "Autofill Password." There seems to be no way to actually reset the "Never for this site" setting. Sounds like a job for <http://apple.com/feedback>.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I’ve actually figured out a way to undo this. It’s klunky AF, but it works. Go to the login page you’re looking to undo this for, and tap the “passwords” label on top of the onscreen keyboard. From the pop up that appears, select “suggest new password”. Attempt to login with the new password. While you won’t successfully login with it, a login entry for the site will now be saved in your account password settings. Edit the entry with the correct information, and you’re done.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: On your iPhone just clear the history of your Safari and then visit the website again... it's done, now just go back to the Safari on your iPhone and just put credentials it will ask you for if you want to save or not.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I recently had to (hurriedly) back up data on an older Macbook before migrating it to a new one. Since all I had at my disposal was a large FAT32 formatted drive, I used that and a manual copy. I've since used `rsync` to put it back on a (non-journaled) HFS+ drive (under Ubuntu).

Now most of the files have a corresponding `._` file alongside them. I understand that this is how OS X stores extended attributes and other information on non-HFS+ filesystems. So my question is: now that I have these files back on a HFS+ filesystem, how can I reconcile the information in the `._` files? That is, since the data in those files can now be stored in the HFS+ metadata for each file, how do I put it back?<issue_comment>username_1: You can copy the files using Finder. It seems Finder can reconcile these when copying from a partition type that doesn't support extended metadata to a partition type that does, reversing it's procedure for doing the reverse and creating the dotfiles.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: dot\_clean
----------

[dot\_clean(1) Mac OS X Manual Page](https://developer.apple.com/library/mac/documentation/Darwin/Reference/Manpages/man1/dot_clean.1.html)

Apple's description:

>
> `For each dir, dot_clean recursively merges all ._* files with their
>  corresponding native files according to the rules specified with the
>  given arguments. By default, if there is an attribute on the native
>  file that is also present in the ._ file, the most recent attribute
>  will be used.`
>
>
> `If no operands are given, a usage message is output. If more than one
>  directory is given, directories are merged in the order in which they
>  are specified.`
>
>
>

Proceed with caution. Whilst the man page lists no known bugs, it is possible to lose data through careless use of the command.
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: I want to create a second a partition in my hard disk where one (about 900 GB) is used for Time Machine and another (100 GB) is used to store info like a thumb drive.

I don't want any existing data to be lost. I know someone who partitioned his hard drive and it is now spoiled and not repairable. I have important info in this hard drive and this is my only one.

For your info, I am using a retina MacBook Pro with Mavericks and want to repartition a WD My Passport for Mac hard disk.<issue_comment>username_1: Yes you can repartition without losing data. Using Disk Utility, perform a repair on your drive to make sure the drive is free of errors (even better, use Diskwarrior if you have a copy). Then unmount your drive but don't eject it. Select the drive in the left hand pane, then go to the Partition tab. On the Partition Layout section click on the "+" to create a new partition. Optionally you can specify the new partition size. When you're happy hit the Apply button and wait.

If you've absolutely critical data on the drive make sure you have a backup (which you should have anyway) but I've done this many times without an issue.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: The reason that everyone always harps on creating a backup before running any kind of partition command is that **if** something goes wrong, then generally every thing is gone. I have preformed this kind of operation on PC's many times, generally it has gone well, but the two times over the years the process glitched the partition table was destroyed. Once I was able to purchase a low level sector recovery tool to get files out that way, the other I had backups and just relied on them.

If you **don't** have any backups, **and** you preform a partition re-size, **and** there is a problem, you better hope for either backups, or plan on paying for data recovery.

Good luck.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Just go to disk management select the drive,which shows the external or internal HDD icon right click it then select the option shrink volume.In the new panel showing put the amount in MB you want the new partition to have.lets see you have 500 GB disk yo want to make a partition of 200 GB.So put the value just in MB.
Problem solved.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: When i try to create a partition on external after unmounting by clicking the unmount tab in disk utililty the + symbol is greyed out. What am i missing? Thank you

"Yes you can repartition without losing data. Using Disk Utility, perform a repair on your drive to make sure the drive is free of errors (even better, use Diskwarrior if you have a copy). Then unmount your drive but don't eject it. Select the drive in the left hand pane, then go to the Partition tab. On the Partition Layout section click on the "+" to create a new partition. Optionally you can specify the new partition size. When you're happy hit the Apply button and wait.

If you've absolutely critical data on the drive make sure you have a backup (which you should have anyway) but I've done this many times without an issue."
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Does anyone know how Mail decide junk message, in addition to trusting spamassassin header? For example, if I mark a message as junk, what criteria does Mail create?<issue_comment>username_1: Mail.app uses more than one approach to junk mail.

* Some spam gets reported by other users.

	+ You can forward your junk mail to <EMAIL> and it gets added to Apple's filtering system.
* Mail servers sometimes mark messages as spam.

	+ When a tool like spam assassin has marked an incoming message as junk, Mail.app respects that and passes it to the junk folder automatically.
* Mail.app also supports custom filters.

	+ You can make your own filters that will direct junk mail into the junk folder.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can add the mail address that it is coming from to your contacts and the mail will no longer mark incoming mail from that address as Junk
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: This is very annoying and makes me miss important email. After receiving an email, it's marked as read by the Mavericks Mail App. Anyone bumped into the same issue? Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: I had/have the same issue. With IMAP email server, if you have another computer, or phone, etc. checking mail from the same server it marks it as read in Mail. Change your settings (or remake a profile) to POP instead of IMAP. Solved for me.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I was having the same problems with OS11 (Big Sur). All of my mail for 1 account was coming in as read and I was missing important messages. I turned off notifications for mail and that seems to have solved the problem for me.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: We have carts of MacBooks and MacBook Pros that students use and close the lid and put them back in cart when they are done. They use wireless networking and don't have USB or displays connected. I am wondering if there is any way we can wake the MacBook remotely using wireless (WoWLAN?). We don't want to have the setting where MacBook doesn't sleep when lid is closed. Is there any way we can wake them on and have them connect to our wireless when their lid is closed? The remote management software we use couldn't work when they are in the cart overnight.<issue_comment>username_1: No - the only way to wake a Mac when the lid is shut is to connect a USB keyboard and display as described in closed clamshell mode for the specific models of MacBook you have.

* <http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3131> - Learn how to use an external display with your Mac notebook while the notebook display is closed

Unless your MDM provider somehow modifies the OS to get it to connect during power nap (highly unlikely), then you will need to perform management before they are put in the cart or after they are taken out of the cart.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Apple now says yes: <https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204032>

>
> `If your Mac supports Power Nap, these activities can occur while your Mac is asleep:`
>
>  [...]
>
> `Mobile Device Management can remotely lock and wipe your Mac.`
>
>
> `And these activities can occur while your Mac is asleep and plugged in to an AC power outlet:`
>
>
>
> ```
> Software updates download.
> Mac App Store items (including software updates), download in the background.
> Time Machine performs backups.
> Spotlight performs indexing.
> Help Center content updates.
> Wireless base stations can wake your Mac using Wake on Wireless.
>
> ```
>
>

Assuming Power Nap is on AND the laptop cart is a powered one AND is actually plugged into the wall (yes, that one's from experience), you should be able to reach them remotely. Apple Remote Desktop does with 10.11 and 10.12.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I want to automatically start an application if its not running. My use is case that if I quit a particular application I want to automatically restart. Specifically in my case its the Messages app.

I always want to keep the Messages app running so if I quit Messages I want it to restart.

What's the best way to handle this?<issue_comment>username_1: What you are looking for is [`launchd`](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Launchd).

It will allow you to run an app continuously (auto-start at boot, relaunch when it quits/crash)

To use it add a `plist` file in `~/Library/LaunchAgents/`

```
xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?

 RunAtLoad

 KeepAlive

 Label
 SomeApp.restart
 ProgramArguments

 /path/to/SomeApp.app/Contents/MacOS/SomeApp

 StartCalendarInterval

 Hour
 5
 Minute
 10

```

Then load it once with `launchctl load ~/Library/LaunchAgents/SomeApp.restart.plist`

* The `RunAtLoad` option will launch the application the first time launchctl runs this.
* The `KeepAlive` option will re-launch the application if it crashes.
* The `StartCalendarInterval` will run it at a certain time. Presumably this is mutually exclusive with the previous two, but is included to show what can be done with launchd
Launchctl will run this after reboots.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As mentioned, launchctl is the command you want. I find that the syntax for launchctl to be rather difficult compared to crontab. Of course, launchctl does much more than cron. Thus, I use [Lingon](http://www.peterborgapps.com/lingon/) to provide a GUI to manage launchctl.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I am new to Applescript and MACs although my first computer was an Apple II Plus and I programed in Apple Basic and Assembly.

I am using it to create a "Silent" alarm button.

We have a system in place that via a URL call will send a message to a select group of computers, in this case the ones used by our security officers.

I wrote a similar one for PCs using the AutoIT scripting language. When some one clicks on this program, as far as anyone watching the screen is concerned, nothing happens. It is 100% silent. But unseen by anyone looking at the PC screen, IE was launched minimized and hidden, a custom URL string, with an embedded message, is opened and then IE is closed. The security officers computers get a message from the message system, Informacast, and security responds accordingly. At no time is anyone watching the PC screen aware that anything has happened. It is all "Silent". Just like a silent alarm in a bank.

My MAC version, written in Applescript is working well except that the call to Safari can be seen on the screen when it takes place. It is only there for a few seconds as the URL is loaded, and then the Safari window is closed, but that few seconds is a few seconds to much and anyone watching the screen will know something happened when the alarm was pressed. I need to prevent anything from showing when Safari is launched. I need to make it "Silent".

The part of the script that opens Safari and loads the URL is shown below...

```
tell application "Safari"
launch
open location AlertURLString (This is the variable that has the URL and embedded message in it)
delay 1
close window 1
end tell

```

I have tried placing the following line in "Tell" routine in various places, before "launch" after "launch" before "open location" and after etc., but I still see a blip of the Safari window as it loads the URL string.

```
set miniaturized of window 1 to true

```

I also played around with variations of the following line but got an Applescript error every time.

```
tell application "System Events" to set process "Safari" to false

```

One more thing, it is possible that Safari or some other program could be open, maybe not full screen etc when this script is run and it is important that it not be closed or changed in any way that would clue some one in to the fact that something was happening on the system after the "Alert Button" is pressed. The "set miniaturized" line depending on how it was used would minimize the window which of course we don't want.

Again what I need is to be able to launch the URL 10000% silently.

Thanks in advance to all who are able to try and help,

Ralph<issue_comment>username_1: You won't be able to do it in AppleScript : Safari only does something on open windows.

You should definitely look at Command line scripts like `curl`.

The AppleScript to call a shell command takes the form:

```
set variableName to do shell script "command"

```

So using your `AlertURLString` you'd want something like:

```
set curlOutput to do shell script "curl '" & AlertURLString & "'"

```

See [the curl man page](http://curl.haxx.se/docs/manpage.html) for more details on how to use `curl` to do things like POST and PUT calls or attach payloads to the calls and what not. It is incredibly powerful.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: if you look at the curl manpage (man curl) it doesn't seem to have a limit on url size. You may want to look into using the -d or --data options.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: My mac has several input methods (English, Chinese)

When I open terminal / iterm2 , I want the input method to switch to `English` automatically.

When I open skype or chat messenger , I want the input method to switch to `Chinese` automatically.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> You can try going to system prefs/language & text/input sources and checking the box for "allow a different one for each document," but this may not do what you want.
>
>
>

Source: ["Automatic Language Input Change"](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2622336) on the Apple Support community
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Try this: [GhostSKB](https://github.com/dingmingxin/GhostSKB)

You guys really need to try it yourself, then come back to vote or de-vote this answer
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I have the same problem and solve it by the following approach.

>
> 1. choose System Preferences
> 2. select the Keyboard option
> 3. Select the Input Sources tab, and then check the box next to Automatically switch to a document’s input source option
>
>
>

Source: <https://www.tech-recipes.com/rx/53194/os-x-switch-language-input-sources-automatically/>
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: Yesterday, I got a bunch of emails from Apple, sent to one of my unused gmail addresses (which still has forwarding to my regular one). I do NOT have an appled ID associated with that address, but it seems like someone was trying to create one.

They were (all in English unless otherwise noted):

* 10-12 identical "Verify your Apple ID." emails from *<EMAIL>*, some in English, some in Greek (I'm Greek and in Greece, so this makes some sense).
* "Your apple ID has been used to sign in to iCloud from an iPhone 4s." email from *<EMAIL>* (not sure about wording, because this one was sent in Greek: Το Apple ID σας χρησιμοποιήθηκε για σύνδεση στο iCloud από iPhone 4s.)
* "Your apple ID information has been updated" from *<EMAIL>*
* "Welcome to iCloud" from *<EMAIL>*

I was alarmed by this. I'm 99% certain I did NOT ever create this apple ID, and 100% certain I didn't use it yesterday, from an iPhone or elsewhere. I went to the apple site, clicked on "reset my password", got a password reset email right away, and changed the password.

I checked ALL my gmail accounts (the one used for the ID, the regular one & a secondary one I have) and there has been no sign of breaching - no connected devices or recent sign-ins I don't recognize, no auto-forwarding or suspicious labels created.

Today, I received another email from apple

* "Your recent download with your Apple ID." from *<EMAIL>*

I therefore realize that the device has somehow not been disconnected, although I believed that, as with other services eg. Google, whenever you change your password, each device asks you for the new password when automatically signing in. Is this not the case with Apple?

*To rephrase, **does Apple automatically sign out all connected devices when changing your password?***

I also had to install iTunes, so that I could deauthorize the devices already connected, but the option does not show up on the list, which [seems to mean](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5851415) there are no devices associated. The only [method](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/107783/how-to-deauthorize-an-iphone-without-itunes) I found for doing that without using iTunes did not work properly.

The details which the person has entered to the account associated with my email seem legitimate (as in, non-spam/scammy) but it looks like they're not tech-savvy enough to even realize they're using the wrong email, so I don't think contacting them (they've even listed their phone number) would have any benefit.

**Is it really possible for someone to register for an Apple ID and continue using that ID without verifying the email?** Because this is what seems to be happening. I never clicked on those "verify" links, they even look unread in my inbox, but it seems like this person is still using that ID.

My goals here are

* To make sure my email account is safe
* To stop receiving annoying emails every time this person does anything related to their apple id.
* To ideally stop this person from signing up for apple IDs or other accounts using an email that doesn't belong to them (and can possibly be a typo, judging by their name).

Any help/feedback at all will be greatly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> does Apple automatically sign out all connected devices when changing
>  your password?
>
>
>

If they are still signed in (at the time you change the password) it will not sign them out, but next time they will have to use the new password to sign in.

Your problem is clearly with someone who cracked your old gmail account.

Now they have created NEW apple id and can verify it since they have access to email.

* go to that gmail and change the password to a strong one.

You only got a copy of that email since you have the forwarding turned on.

You must have created a apple id once upon a time since it is needed for basic service like system software updates.

Your original apple id might be still OK and not compromised (but change the password on it anyway).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I called the (local) number this person had listed in the apple ID and talked to them. Apparently, it was just someone that thought they were registering FOR that apple ID/username, not realizing they were stating that this was their email instead. The emails received (there was an additional one from a university), their age, as well as their attitude on the phone made me pretty certain they were truthful. They just thought they owned that email account, without ever managing to log in to it.

So it wasn't a phishing scam, or any account breech.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I am unable to download iOS 7 on my iPhone 3Gs. Why? I have iOS 6.1.6 and if I want to download "Find My iPhone", it requires iOS 7. I've tried to search on what else I can do, but cannot figure it out. I also have about 10 GB of free memory out of 13 GB.<issue_comment>username_1: You cannot download it because iOS 7 is not supported on any iPhone model prior to the iPhone 4. The latest version of iOS that will run on the 3Gs is iOS 6.1.6 -- which you have.

Here's a fantastic compatibility chart for iOS 7:

[![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1MEf.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/K1MEf.jpg)

Source: <http://cdn.theapplelounge.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/iOS-7-Comparison-Chart-definitivo-1.jpg>

Note the complete absence of the iPhone 3G and 3GS models.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_2: If you purchase an app (free in this case) *before* the app is upgraded to require the next OS version, you can get the latest compatible version for your device.

That sounds a bit awkward, so here's an example:

I have a 4th-gen iPod. It runs up to iOS 6.x. At one point I installed various Apple apps like Find My Phone/Friends.

I recently wiped it and set it up for wifey to use. She had, naturally, no apps in her new account so she cannot install Find My Friends.

I used my iTunes account to install Find My Friends and was able to get the last compatible version for my/her device. It will likely work until the server is updated and stops supporting older versions.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Apple has a work around for older devices.

Download the latest app to your computer with iTunes.

Then log into the store with your device and select purchased.

Find the app(s) for iOS7 you downloaded to iTunes and then select install. If an older version (i.e. iOS6) is available it will download.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I have recently bought an iPhone 5 from Tmobile and before that I had a 3gs. The 5 wasn't working properly, so I took it back to Tmobile to get my 3gs back again. The man at the counter transferred everything to my old iPhone, and along with it, came iOS 7. I'm writing this to say it can be done, but with a lot of hassle, a waste of money, and a lot of stupidity.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: My iTunes keeps crashing whenever I try to show my Cloud Music. I go into Preferences > Store and check the box to show the music, but then it tries to load it and it crashes. It'll keep crashing each time I load iTunes unless i check the box off, but I want my Cloud Music seen. How do I fix this problem?<issue_comment>username_1: If you go to Apple then Software Update and you see an update there for iTunes, do the update.

I believe this issue was suppose to be resolved in that update.

If not, you could try signing out of the iTunes Store and signing back in. Sometimes refreshing the account information manually will help.

Lastly, you can reinstall Mac OS X from the recovery partition. Hold down opt key on boot, choose Recovery 10.X.X. On the resulting window, choose reinstall Mac OS X and then choose your hard drive.

**Create a backup before performing last step**
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: click "view"-> "show icloud music purchase"

note: you have to show menu bar first to see "view" menus
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: My storage on the iPhone, which I had cleared to 6 GB of free space (I have NOT downloaded 8.0.2) suddenly, after iTunes software update, went down to 3 GB of free space!
This happened *just* with iTunes software update on my computer, followed by a sync.

iPhone 4s with 16 GB capacity. iOS 7.0. I downloaded latest iTunes version to my computer 11.4.018.<issue_comment>username_1: You can do this in the iTunes menu at the top of the screen: `File :: Devices :: Transfer purchases`

As simple as that.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: You'd better transfer your purchases first.

* Connect your device to the computer. Wait for its icon to appear in iTunes.
* Go to File > Devices. If you're using iTunes for Windows and can't see the menu bar, learn how to turn on iTunes menus in Windows (<http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT202662>).
* Choose Transfer Purchases from [device name].
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: My installation of the Mac App Store on Mavericks [is broken](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/147942/app-store-on-os-x-broken-after-system-restoration-from-backup). What alternatives are there for installing the new OS?<issue_comment>username_1: You could [boot to the Recovery HD](https://support.apple.com/en-ca/HT202313) or Internet Recovery and install OS X to a USB drive. Then download and install Yosemite. Notice that older computers do not support this option.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: 1. Grab an Install OS X Mavericks.app
2. Install the OS onto a USB drive as if it's a dual-booting system.
3. Start up the OS from USB drive, download OS X Yosemite.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: >
> My MAS application is still broken and there are glitches everywhere.
>
>
>

Looks like FUBAR BUNDY!

I recommend a clean install.

1. Backup any additional files which aren't already in your SuperDuper! image. Probably it's faster to just backup/copy your or all user folder(s) to an external drive.
2. Please check your hardware with your original system DVD (Apple Support: [de\_DE](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1509?viewlocale=de_DE) [en\_US](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1509?viewlocale=en_US)) or if the DVD is not available with the appropriate [Apple Hardware Test](https://github.com/upekkha/AppleHardwareTest) image.
3. Do a SMC-reset (Apple Support: [de-DE](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964?viewlocale=de_DE) [en-US](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964?viewlocale=en_US))
4. Do a PRAM-reset (Apple Support: [de\_DE](http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11243?viewlocale=de_DE) [en\_US](http://support.apple.com/kb/PH11243?viewlocale=en_US))
5. Since your recovery volume is [probably corrupted](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/147942/app-store-on-os-x-broken-after-system-restoration-from-backup), you have to initiate an internet recovery by restarting your mac and pressing `alt` `cmd` `R`.

The prerequisites for an internet recovery are listed here: [supported Pre Lion Macs](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4904) and [Recovery/Internet Recovery](http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718).
In a few words you need the latest firmware update installed, either ethernet or WLAN (WPA/WPA2) and a router with DHCP activated for a successful internet recovery.

On a 50 Mbps-line it takes about 4 min (presenting a small animated globe) to boot into the recovery netboot image which is loaded from an apple server.

(Additionally you might need an external drive or a thumb drive with at least 32 GB if you want to install to an external disk.)
6. In the opening window choose `Disk Utility` and format/partition the drive you want to install the system to. Choose `Mac OS Extended (Journaled)` and GUID partition table (available with the `option` button). Quit `Disk Utility`.
7. Choose `Reinstall OS X` and `Continue`. After some verification steps you will be asked to choose a partition for the new system. Continue until the system is installed. Depending on your internet connection it might take several hours to download and install 5.5 GB. If you get a message like 'Could not find installation information for this machine' just restart your Mac and continue with step 5. (The netboot image seems to be very picky with the WLAN connection and it took me two attempts to get around this step)
8. Set up your new system.
9. Start `App Store.app` and log into your Apple Store account.
10. Download and install `Yosemite` if it wasn't already installed in step 7 or just download it and quit the installer to get the Yosemite installation app for any further use.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I have some filters set up in Gmail, for things like mailing lists. Messages skip the inbox, get tagged, and go straight to archive. This was not a problem in Mavericks, but now I'm getting the "new mail" noise all the time, when really it's a new message in the archive, from one of these filters, but nothing is new in my inbox.

The setting in my preferences is still: New message notifications: Inbox Only.

Any ideas? A bug in Mail?<issue_comment>username_1: My workaround…

* Switch off the new message sound in Prefs > General
* To the end of every rule, or at least the end of all possible paths, add a new Action - 'Stop Evaluating Rules'.
* Add one more Rule at the end, like this…

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UAp6W.png)

Anything that gets that far through the Rule list will play the sound, anything diverted on the way will not…

...or you can selectively add that or any chosen sound at the bottom of earlier Rules, for instance if you wanted to differentiate or highlight any particular incoming path.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I haven't used the client side mail filters for while, but I don't think it's a bug.

As a alternative workaround you can use [server side gmail filter](https://support.google.com/mail/answer/6579?hl=en). So, incoming email messages, like mailing lists are already sorted on the server before they show up in Mail. It is so much faster than sorting them locally.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Go to Mail -> **Preferences** -> **Rules**.

Edit one of the lists, where you have to add under "Perform the following actions:":

**Mark as Read**
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Solution: update your Gmail filters to:

* Skip the inbox
* Mark as read
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: Do I need an internet connection on my iPhone 6 to use Apple Pay?<issue_comment>username_1: No, Apple Pay does not require an internet connection. Apple Pay uses [NFC](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near_field_communication) technology; it does not use Wi-Fi or cellular technology.

According to [CNet](http://www.cnet.com/news/everything-you-want-to-know-about-apple-pay/), Apple Pay will work even if you put your iPhone 6 into Airplane Mode. Airplane Mode disables both the Wi-Fi and cellular internet.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: No, Apple Pay can be used an unlimited number of times while offline since it generates payment information locally as opposed to some other mobile payments like HCE which only allow a [limited number of payments](http://www.androidauthority.com/everything-need-know-host-card-emulation-347626/) in-between getting an internet connection.

Apple Support article: <https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201469>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The answer is yes and no.

Internet connectivity is required for any setup or maintenance of your cards. Once a card has been successfully added to the device, the phone can be disconnected for payments, which is a local interaction between the device and the point of sale terminal.
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: Yosemite install (from Mavericks) has automatically changed the names of my network computers as shown in the Finder sidebar. For example, *my name IMac* now displays as *my name iMac(2).* My two additional Mac Airs are displaying the same problem.

I have tried changing the computer names in System Preferences (sharing/computer name/edit) to no effect with or without rebooting.

How can I return to the original computer names?<issue_comment>username_1: Goto System Preferences/Sharing. That's where you can change your computer name.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: **UPDATE 3:** Updating to 10.10.4 fixes this problem. In this point release `discoveryd` is replaced by the previously ousted `mDNSResponder`.

*The originally supplied workaround follows...*

There is a bug between Yosemite (the daemon `discoveryd`) and sleep servers. These servers reside in Apple TVs and Airports and act as a proxy for a sleeping machine. For now the only fix seems to be:

* On your computer, go to **System Preferences --> Energy Saver**, and untick *"Wake for network access"* (or maybe it is *"Wake for Wi-Fi access"*, I think it depends on your interface type).
* Shut down your Apple TV/s and/or Airport/s.
* On your computer, go to **System Preferences --> Sharing**, and rename it as you wish.
* Reboot your computer and check that the name change has stuck (a reboot is probably not necessary but I did so for good measure).
* Power-up your Apple TV/s and/or Airport/s.

I no longer have the incrementing computer name problem, unless I re-enable *"Wake for network access"*.

**UPDATE 1:** Updating to OS X 10.10.1 (and Apple TV to 7.0.2) didn't help.

**UPDATE 2:** Whilst improved, it's still broken in OS X 10.10.3. But the buggy daemon `discoveryd` has apparently been replaced in the 10.10.4 beta by the previously ousted `mDNSResponder`. So here's hoping it's fixed in the next release. Source: [*9to5Mac*](http://9to5mac.com/2015/05/26/apple-drops-discoveryd-in-latest-os-x-beta-following-months-of-complaints-about-network-issues-with-yosemite/).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: My workaround:

1. Rename the Macbook to a new name (System Preferences > Sharing): e.g. Jimmy
2. Restart Time Capsule (Applications > Utilities > AirPort Utility)
3. Make sure there are no identical names in Capsule's connected devices (the red box in diagram below)
4. Rename the Macbook back to original name

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ASCIi.png)
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: There are several questions that ask whether you can control an iPad from a Mac (like [this one](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/84722/how-to-control-your-ipad-with-your-mac-remotely)). But is it possible to view your iPad screen from a Mac when it's plugged in via USB or wirelessly without jailbreaking it?

I can remote login to my Mac at work and my iPad is connected so I can debug on it via XCode, but I can't see the results.<issue_comment>username_1: You can with Yosemite & iOS 8

Launch Quicktime player & select File > New Movie Recording [Cmd/opt/N]

Click on the small downward-facing triangle next to the record button. This lets you select an alternate recording source, which now includes your iPhone or iPad.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Haven't tried this myself but this seems like what you might be looking for. It mirrors iPad to the Mac or PC wirelessly. No jail breaking required. <http://www.airsquirrels.com/reflector/>
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I like safari to open links in new *tabs* in general. I.e. when I do a search, I want results I click to open in new tabs in the same window. This allows to have multiple windows with multiple tabs and have them grouped by topic.

when I click on a link i an email, safari (on OS X) somehow (randomly?) chooses an open window and opens the link as a new tab in it. sometime it picks even a minimised window, although there are others visible on the same space.

to be clear: I want the new window when the action is triggered from external application (e.g. Mail, etc.). Within Safari I'd like to stick with the default behaviour.

I tried the Safari Settings -> Tabs -> Open new pages in tabs instead of windows setting (all of them), but this does not give the expected result. it is general for all.
Also google did not know a satisfying answer, so I am asking here.

Any help is appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: I've experienced the same thing, new windows instead of tabs opening when control clicking, and it has seemed totally random to me, too.

The Safari Extension 'Link Thing' (maybe 'LinkThing' -?) will, by default, open all links in a new tab without your having to hit control unless the page (e.g. DuckDuckGo) disables and overrides the user's browser preferences.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The following OSA script opens the URL given as parameter in a new window.

```
function Safari {
    # Will open a New Safari window with argument 1.
    osascript <
```

Put the code into the file *.profile* in your home directory and run it with `. ~/.profile`.

*I’ve found this solution in [another thread](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/141721/81900) here on Stack Exchange.*
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I have attached an HFS+ hard drive with Mac OS X installed to an Ubuntu machine because while booting the Mac shows a blinking folder with a question mark. I searched Google and the results say that the 3 TB HDD is damaged. When I attach the HDD it reads well in Ubuntu.

So my question is how can I reformat the HDD with HFS+ in Ubuntu without using Mac OS X?

---

I am using Ubuntu 14.04 and the HDD is perfectly fine - I have tested it. Just wanted to reinstall every mac osx hdd so that it can boot up.. I paid a lot for that ...<issue_comment>username_1: If the HDD is damaged, and you try to format, you will lose all of your data and operating system (unless this is a multi-drive computer and the damaged one is not the one with the operating system, in which case it should boot up fine)

However,

It appears that the latest GParted can create HFS+ partitions. You can look up tutorials on how to install and use GParted [here](http://gparted.org/articles.php), but check out [this](http://helpdeskgeek.com/free-tools-review/manage-partitions-in-windows-7-xp-vista/). The guide says windows, but the UI is identical. Also, to install on Ubuntu, run `sudo apt-get install gparted` in the terminal.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To answer your question:

You can format a drive in Ubuntu with the HFS+ format by using either `gparted` or by installing the `hfsprogs` package - use `sudo apt-get install hfsprogs` to install the program.

As for the additional details in your post, it is concerning that you have determined through Google that your drive has failed. **To properly determine if your drive has failed, you need get the SMART diagnostic info from the drive itself**. If it responds back with anything but "Verified" then your drive has a problem.

**It is also important to note that "formatting" a drive will not repair it. You will just make those bad sectors availble for writing again which can and will lead to data loss.**

Under OS X, you can get it by issuing the command:

```
diskutil info diskx | grep SMART

```

(Substitute x with your disk number; most likely 0)

However, that may not be enough. There is a free utility I have used to verify my drives, it's called [DriveDX](http://binaryfruit.com/drivedx) and it's reporting capability is completely free.

Before formatting your drive, I highly suggest you take a look into these areas first.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The question mark does not necessarily mean that the drive itself is damaged. It could also just mean that the data stored on the drive is not structured correctly. If you have edited partition tables, moved partitions or changed system files that could happen.

There's really no need for you to use Ubuntu to format the drive. It seems to me that you think that OS X cannot read/write your drive because of the question mark, and that's why you want to use Ubuntu. This is not the case.

If you can read/write the drive using Ubuntu, you can do so with OS X as well.

I would recommend using ordinary OS X Recovery Mode to reformat and reinstall OS X. You can initiate Recovery Mode by booting the Mac holding down the Cmd and R buttons.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to reinstall OS X Mavericks on a MacBook through internet the error that i receive is:
"This item is temporarily unavailable."<issue_comment>username_1: Since Apple has released the replacement for Mavericks called Yosemite, the Mavericks is no longer available on app store for download.

There are no official sources to get Mavericks.

You option is to find a friend or someone and get a copy from them.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: For me at least, since I previously "purchased" Mavericks from the App Store, it showed up in my previous purchases list so I was able to download it. If you never actually installed Mavericks from the app store directly (i.e. upgraded an older Mac using the App Store) then it probably won't be there. This is a strange oversight on Apple's part - some apps out there still don't properly support Yosemite, and my workplace also has had problems with Yosemite working with their directory infrastructure, so we still use Mavericks as a matter of course.

If you didn't "buy" (read: download for free) Mavericks officially from the App store, your only option is to find a friend who did and ask them to create you a USB installation media. Instructions for doing this are easily found on the Internet.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This might be a little late, but the link to create a bootable installer once you have your hands on a downloaded installer is:

<https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372>
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: As an ongoing issue (for at least the past three major OS X versions), I find that when trying to remote to another machine using Screen Sharing, the remote screen gets painted completely black. Moving the mouse will result in the area immediately under the pointer being redrawn correctly, and dragging a window (in the remote session) off screen then back on will redraw that window. Sometimes other areas of the screen will redraw themselves (usually when there is an actual change), but most the screen simply remains black, sometimes even repainting back to full black again.

Network connectivity doesn't seem to be a factor; this happens both on a fast LAN and across the Internet with 400-500ms latency. Hardware doesn't seem a factor either; using a range of Mac Minis and Macbooks. Screen sharing sometimes initiated via Remote Desktop, sometimes just clicking on Share Screen in the Finder. While I can work around this glitch (I tend to just SSH in for maintenance), I thought I'd see if anyone out there has any suggestions!<issue_comment>username_1: I have had similar issues with screen sharing, ARD, and Windows RD. I have noticed this happening on all systems(Win, OSX, Linux) whenever the RAM on the Desktop you are accessing gets close to be full. The only solution I have found is to close the connection and reconnect.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Does this happen when you have been *some* time without using the remote computer? I mean, could it be the remote system putting the monitor to sleep?

It surely happens to me all the time. I have a 15 minutes sleep interval setup and I tend to forget I have the connection active. After this period of time the shared screen goes black.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I'd second the idea that it may be a RAM issue -- I'm noticing that it happens particularly when:

* I've got huge uptime on the remote system (so... memory leaks, cruft, have accumulated)
* I switch apps on the remote system (loading things in and out of RAM)

From practical standpoint, I've found that greping for the the screen sharing daemon and killing it forces the remote machine to respawn a new one that *isn't* blacked out... but that doesn't last for long:

`ps aux | grep screensharingd`

and then `sudo kill XXXX` once I know what what procid I'm targeting. But that's a really short term solution (buys another 15-90 seconds, usually).

The finger the I would **also** point is at `mdutil`, the spotlight indexer, which just gets out of control, especially on a system with a lot of large drives with a lot of small files. I've had best success clamping down on Spotlight (which, imho, isn't very useful) and restricting it by either marking most of my drives and directories "private".

*If* the remote system is tight on RAM, it *may* be because Spotlight is being a pig.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I am using the new iOS8 Health app and I'm confused. The steps and walking & running graphs are showing but without data. I've restarted, updated, and tried again and again but it is not functioning.<issue_comment>username_1: ***See Edit note at bottom. My answer does need work, but I don't know the correct answer yet.***

You need additional accessories to collect that data.

From the [IOS8 for iPhone manual](http://manuals.info.apple.com/MANUALS/1000/MA1565/en_US/iphone_user_guide.pdf) Page 122:

>
> Data sources: Enter your own data, Collect data from a device, Collect data from an app.
>
>
>

Also on [Apple's "Health" marketing page](http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203037) note it says:

>
> The Health app in iOS 8 lets you see the data that your health and fitness apps collect in one place. You can also store your important health data in Medical ID for easy retrieval in an emergency.
>
>
>

Nowhere in any of the documentation does it indicate that Apple has figured out a way to collect this data with the phones sensors regardless of where the user is keeping/carrying the phone (i.e. shirt pocket, pants pocket, in an arm band carrier...etc).

Apple also [sells the accessories in the apple store](http://store.apple.com/us/accessories/all-accessories/fitness).

**EDIT to add:** Now I'm confused too!! today My iPhone 6 has data collected, and I don't know how from the research I've done for this answer. The interface seems incredibly buggy, I am seeing both NO DATA and graphs populated with data and I can't see apparent methods to make either happen intentionally. Drilling down to the "All Data" display and waiting a long time does seem to return data points that the phone has collected.

**Additional Info Edit:** NO DATA seems to appear while data is being sorted, that's my feeling anyway, I can't seem to figure out what makes sorting short or long however.

I've googled and searched apple additionally and can find no apparent documentation other than what I've already linked and quoted.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The Walking and Running Distance comes from the motion co-processor that exists in iPhone 5s and iPhone 6. It seems like the Apple Watch will be able to inject that data as well into the iPhones, but we'll need to wait for final release to know how or if that is complete in the spring of 2015.

Similarly, the steps data comes from having the phone on your body when you are moving about.

There are some apps that can add data to this category - tap the **Share Data** to see what data sources are currently contributing to this graph. For me, you can see my iPhone as well as the Runmeter and Strava apps are sources. Since I record my runs in Runmeter and then push the data from there to Strava, I've disabled the Strava input so that one run doesn't get counted twice in the health app.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmLcU.png)

You can easily set up contrived data by manually adding a data point and then seeing the graph update to reflect your added data. Feel free to post a second photo with a screen shot of your particular graph and the data you have that makes it up if you aren't seeing the graphs update after a power off of the iPhone to reset things if the calculations are stuck.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: While in Heath App and with the orange steps app showing, swipe to your left and a screen will come up where you can turn Steps on. Do that to mileage and stairs of you want those to collect data
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: How can I connect to ftp server in terminal? What is the command?
For example for the ssh server:

```
ssh admin@ip.of.the.site

```<issue_comment>username_1: ```none
ftp
open ftp://username:password@hostname

```

These are two separate commands. The open command is run within ftp.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: ```
ftp hostname

```

or

```
ftp://username:password@hostname

```

Now, once connected the 5 most common options are:

```
cd foldername      #e.g. cd /downloads/recent
get filename       #e.g. get thisisthefileiwant.text
put filename       #e.g. put sendthistotheserver.txt
mget filenameregex #e.g mget * to get every file in a directory
mput filemameregex #e.g. mput *.txt to upload every txt file to the server

```

The only trickery is sometimes you might need to put it into binary mode by typing binary

To exit, type bye

The difference between mine and @username_1arside 's solution is his forks it to the Finder using open, while mine uses Terminal
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I know that this topic is quiet old but I found it accidentally and maybe someone other will visit this site too. ftp command no longer works for High Sierra and higher. <https://discussions.apple.com/thread/8095899>
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: I have migrated to Mac OS X 10.10 Yosemite. Sometimes I use an 'on my mac' calendar. I just wanted to create one for one of my projects, but I can only see "Exchange", "google" and "iCloud" but I don't want any of those, just a local one.

The menu item is not there anymore. What setting am I missing?<issue_comment>username_1: To create local calendar on Yosemite (when no such option is available via **File** menu) navigate to calendar in **Other** section in the sidebar, select one and **right click**, then select **New Calendar**. This should create calendar in **On My Mac** section (local).
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: As an addendum to the above, if the **Other** section is not visible in the sidebar, go to **Preferences** and select the **General** icon.

Now select the **Show Birthdays Calendar** or **Show Holidays Calendar** (or both) and close the **Preferences** pane. The **Other** section is now added *below* the **iCloud** section.

You can now right-click in the **Other** section, select **New Calendar** and an *untitled* calendar is created in the **On My Mac** section *above* the **iCloud** section.

I find this very useful if I need an application to run at a specific time each day on one specific Mac and not on any others. This also prevents alerts from appearing on other devices such as iPhone or iPad where they would have no significance.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The other answers didn't work for me until I hid all the other calendar groups by hovering over them to show the hide button. Then I right clicked to create a new calendar.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: If you first turn off your iCloud account using the System Preferences control panel, an "On My Mac" option appears in the File > New Calendar menu. A new calendar can then be created under a new "On My Mac" group.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Just had this problem with a new MacBook running Sierra. I tried disabling iCloud Calendars but as soon as it was enabled my local calendars were moved to iCloud.

Finally was able to do it, by selecting on of the calendars inside Other (i.e. Found in Apps) and then doing File -> New Calendar.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I got it to appear by disabling all the calendar accounts in the calendar preferences section, then re-enabling them
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: A pop-up will appear on my phone asking me to accept the new terms and conditions. To turn off these notifications, I need to turn off iCloud. Unfortunately, when I go into my settings to turn off iCloud, it requires me to accept the new terms and conditions in order to even turn off iCloud!

Does anyone know another way around this? Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: Since you had the iCloud turned on initially, you will have to accept the T&C anyway.

You have a iCloud account!

Turning it off now is to late since you used the product already.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You could call apple care to turn off icloud for you. This would take a couple of hours to accomplish so I suggest you accept the T&C and than log out from icloud via 'settings > icloud' like @Buscar said.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: None of the existing answers solved my problem on iOS 9. I have multiple iCloud accounts configured on my phone, which was the root of the problem. I followed the instructions posted [here](https://positek.net/icloud-tc-hell/) and my problems were solved. For posterity's sake, here is an excerpt from that link:

>
> There’s not a lot of chatter about this, primarily because it only
>  affects a few few iPhone/iPad users who happen to have and use more
>  than one Apple ID on their device. This is you, so here’s how to fix
>  this:
>
>
> 1. Tap Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, and then tap on the first iCloud account. You should see a Terms and Conditions link near the
>  top in blue.
> 2. Tap the link, scroll to the bottom and tap the Accept link.
> 3. Repeat steps 1 & 2 for any other iCloud accounts you have showing in the list of accounts.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I have my Mac OS X Yosemite system configured in spanish, but I have an app with a horrible spanish translation, and I would like to run it (and just this app) in english. How could I do that?<issue_comment>username_1: So... there is two ways: change the main system language for some time or use this freeware, [Language Switcher](http://www.tj-hd.co.uk/en-gb/languageswitcher/), which helps to launch single applications with a different language. Also you can try this variant - [App Language Chooser](https://itunes.apple.com/de/app/app-language-chooser/id451732904?mt=12&affId=1864973&ign-mpt=uo%3D4).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You may try to move translation files out of application bundle.
First make a copy of Your app (just in case). Then go to the **Resources** folder inside this app-copy (right click -> show package content -> enter **Content** -> enter **Resources**). Here You'll probably find directory called like: **es\_ES.lproj**/**es\_lproj**/**es\_MX.lproj** (or similar) - delete this dir. Launch this app-copy and check the language.

---

**This is a bit overkill** since You can use `-AppleLanguages` switch. Good answers in: [Is it possible to launch a program in a specific language?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/245/is-it-possible-to-launch-a-program-in-a-specific-language)
Upvotes: 1