<issue_start>username_0: Can I change the date and/or time of photos that are in the iOS camera roll?

I've imported photos, but they now have the wrong date. How can I adjust these photos to appear in the correct temporal order in my camera roll and iOS iCloud Photos library?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, you can accomplish this by downloading third-party apps from the App Store.

Pixelgarde
==========

One I've found very popular from my web searches is [Pixelgarde](https://itunes.apple.com/app/pixelgarde/id414677492). This app not only lets you edit the date and time of when your photo was taken, but also change or delete the location where it was taken in, the person who took it, and much more.

---

Again, this is the one I've found most popular in my web searches, but please feel free to pick up the one you most prefer!

Hope this helped you out, let me know !
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You can also adjust the date/time if you have access to the Photo app on a Mac computer that automatically syncs to the camera roll on your phone (assuming you are referring to photos on your phone). Double-click on the photo, then click on the circled "i" next to the heart at the top right corner of the window. Then, double-click on the date/time section in the window that pops up, and it should let you edit the information there.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: **Metadata Pro** is also a good app to change photo date + a lot of other metadata. Works for videos too.

Link:
<https://itunes.apple.com/app/metadata-pro/id835505449?mt=8>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: iOS 15 in 2021 adds a new **Adjust Date & Time** feature to the iOS Photos app.

1. Scroll up on a photo
2. Press `Adjust` button
3. `Adjust Date & Time` via the calendar, date picker, and time zone selector.

iOS 15 is now capable of adjusting the Date and Time a photo was taken. This was previously only available in the macOS Photos app via `Adjust Date and Time...`.

You can also press and hold the Date on photo, and then press and hold it on another - to Copy and Paste the Date & Time taken. (same works for location)

---

[![Adjust button](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aiEoh.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aiEoh.jpg)
[![Adjust Date & Time](https://i.stack.imgur.com/42rHo.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/42rHo.png)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I am running Mac OS X (Version 10.10.5) on a MacBook Pro (13 Inch, Mid 2010) and want to arrange an external monitor of the same type to different positions.

First, let me explain my setup:

* monitor at my office: DELL U2312HM (located above the MacBook's screen)
* monitor at home: DELL U2312HM (located left of the MacBook's screen)

As you can see, I am using different monitors of the same type (they have different serial numbers displayed in the System Overview window). However, they are located either above or left of the internal screen.

Since the only way I know to arrange an external monitor is draging the blue boxes in the monitor section of the system preferences, I need to do this every morning after connecting my monitor in the office and every evening after coming home. The monitor arrangement does not depend on the monitor's serial number but on the model since saving the arrangement of different models works as desired.

So is there a way, a hidden setting, a hidden setting accessible through the terminal or even a third-party app which enables different monitor arrangements for the same monitor model but based on the monitor's serial number as shown in the system overview?

The behavior which seems to be a system default is very annoying and does not feel very apple-like.<issue_comment>username_1: There is a product out there that will remember your monitor configurations - it's called [Stay](https://cordlessdog.com/stay/)

From their website:

>
> Stay can store a set of windows for every combination of displays that you use with your computer. Stay can also be configured to automatically restore windows as displays are connected and disconnected.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I wrote a free terminal tool called [displayplacer](https://github.com/jakehilborn/displayplacer) that lets describe your monitor layout as a terminal command. I then use BetterTouchTool to execute these profiles via hotkeys. It solved the same problem for me of using the same model monitor at work (in portrait mode) as at home (in landscape mode).

For example, on my 4 monitor setup at home I have this profile: `displayplacer "id:A46D2F5E-487B-CC69-C588-ECFD519016E5 res:3840x2160 hz:60 color_depth:8 scaling:off origin:(0,0) degree:0" "id:F466F621-B5FA-04A0-0800-CFA6C258DECD res:1440x900 color_depth:4 scaling:on origin:(-1440,1437) degree:0" "id:4C405A05-8798-553B-3550-F93E7A7722BB res:1440x2560 color_depth:8 scaling:off origin:(3840,-363) degree:270" "id:18173D22-3EC6-E735-EEB4-B003BF681F30 res:1920x1200 color_depth:8 scaling:off origin:(960,-1200) degree:0"`

Also available via Homebrew `brew tap jakehilborn/jakehilborn && brew install displayplacer`
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This appears to now be built into the operating system (as discovered when I asked the same question): [Is there a way to automate the movement of application windows to assigned monitors?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/405883/is-there-a-way-to-automate-the-movement-of-application-windows-to-assigned-monit)

Thanks to @Hefewe1zen for their answer:

```
Place the application window on the desired screen.
Then right click its Dock icon -> Options -> Assign To -> (select desired target)

These functions are especially helpful if you use Spaces.

```
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: The theater company I work with is doing a show this fall in which a key plot point is an iPhone ringing while it's in someone's purse. They really want to make an iPhone ring and not just use a sound cue. But cell reception inside the theater is spotty at best. Is there some way to get an iPhone to ring without making a call to it?<issue_comment>username_1: No. Jailbreaking itself doesn't cause slowness. It's what you do with that that causes trouble. And since you have a 6s.. I wouldn't bother jailbreaking it until iOS 10, since it's so close.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I guess I would ask what features or functions are you hoping to gain. Back in the"early" days there were lots of reasons to jailbreak (besides just plain fun): 3rd party apps, springboard, customization, tethering, and other hacks. For me, iOS has acquired all the features that I got from jailbreaking, without the extra hassle.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Unlike rooting android, which users perform to enhance performance by overclocking, upgrading to a better kernel, and customisation, iPhone is pretty well optimised in this aspect, so one of the obvious reasons someone would find a need to jailbreak it would be just the customisation. To clear your doubts, this will not slow down your device but could sometimes make it unstable when some unsupported tweaks are installed. Rest assured jailbreaking is fun. But for an iPhone 6s which is already very fast and optimised, there is hardly any need for jailbreaking.
Though the final call is yours.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: My Iphone 6 was laying on the bed and i wasnt aware of where it was, so i laid down on my bed and my knee was putting a lot of pressure on the screen and the screen cracked and now my iphone is black and has lots if different colors on screen . Is it replaceable? Help!!!<issue_comment>username_1: My friend just took her iPhone 6 to the Apple Store and, out of warranty, they fixed her phone for $120. The screen was uhh... quite.... destroyed.
[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LG4b1.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LG4b1.jpg)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Usually if it's just the screen Apple has a screen replacement program where they would either replace the screen or the entire phone for $79 with the AppleCare coverages or $109 without it.

You could start the process at [Apple's Support Page](https://support.apple.com/iphone/repair/screen-damage)
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I just got this [Asus 1080p monitor](https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B00B17C5KO?m=A9T23OKX5KJF0&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A9T23OKX5KJF0) and I've connected my Mid-2014 13-inch rMBP (2.8GHz Intel Core i5, 16 GB of memory, Intel Iris 1536 MB Graphics, running El Capitan 10.11.6) to it via HDMI. The Macbook is in a vertical dock in [closed clamshell mode](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201834). It's plugged in with the screen off, and I've got a cheap Anker keyboard and Magic Trackpad 2 connected to it. When it's plugged in via HDMI to the monitor, whether the monitor is on or off, the CPU load is constantly at 100% with the fan spinning rather loudly.

Activity Monitor shows the CPU load is almost all from kernel\_task, and ~3% user, ~97% system.

When I unplug the HDMI cable, the fan stops going and CPU usage drops immensely.

Is this behavior from my Macbook as unusual/harmful as I would think, and what can I do about it?

**Edit:** Google Chrome and Xcode are running significantly slower on the monitor than they do on my Macbook itself.

**Edit 2:** As soon as a posted this, my fan stopped whirring so rapidly (though CPU usage did not drop from 100), and Activity Monitor showed that CPU usage is about 15% each from 5 different `Google Chrome Helper`s (?) and only 1% from `kernel_task`. What on earth?<issue_comment>username_1: The behavior of kernel task taking CPU is a protective measure so you don't really need to worry about it.

* [CPU usage is too high with Yosemite and an external monitor](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/193947/cpu-usage-is-too-high-with-yosemite-and-an-external-monitor)

What you can do is keep the system cool otherwise, reduce the pixels or refresh rate on the display or choose a smaller display.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In the end, after I let Activity Monitor calculate things for a few minutes, it was Google Chrome Helpers causing the CPU load and not the connection to the monitor. I quit Google Chrome and killed its Helpers, then restarted Chrome about an hour later, and the problem fully subsided.

If the CPU load doesn't come from one of the apps, and really is only happening because of then monitor connection, see username_1's answer.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: On El Capitan and before I could set a different format language than the display language in OS X. So the UI of OS X would be English, while the date and number formatting would be Dutch. However this setting was changed when upgrading to macOS Sierra, it now uses English for both display and formatting. I would really love to revert this change to what it was on OS X El Capitan.

OS X El Capitan:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qferc.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qferc.png)

macOS Sierra:
[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ah59T.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ah59T.png)<issue_comment>username_1: I used to have different time and fate format language (Spanish) than the main or OS Language (English) in El Capitan just like you, and I spoke with Apple Support regarding this issue and they told me that at the moment those changes are the current updated settings. There is a possibility that third party software can do those changes as El Capitan was able to do but unfortunately Sierra at the moment cannot do that change.

They told me as well that usually with things like this, with so many people depending on it, most of the time it will come back with updates but just can't guarantee when.

So, right now the option is downgrade to El Capitan if you relay on this configuration on a daily basis, or change the OS to the language that you need your time and configuration settings.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It appears this can be done from the command line. For example Dutch format language (the `nl` part) with Netherlands (the `NL` part) set as the Region, even with English as the UI language, should result when you execute this in Terminal:

```
defaults write NSGlobalDomain AppleLocale -string nl_NL

```

This was found at [tidbits.com](http://tidbits.com/article/16826).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: In the "Artist" view of iTunes 12.5, is it possible to make a photo of the artist (or at least one of the album covers) appear in place of the rainbow microphone?

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEHLx.png)

**Update** (2017)

It appears that with 12.5.5.5 (possibly earlier, but I didn't notice), Artists that are known to Apple now have their photos set correctly:

![](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qpDwJ.png)

There still doesn't appear to be a way to manually set or override this image though.<issue_comment>username_1: No, missing artist images do not depend on the source of the music. Even if you bought it from Apple, you may get the ugly microphone images!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't have a solution, but I believe I've discovered the root cause of the issue.

In the iTunes store, each artist has a biography page. Some artists have a band image, others do not. For every artist in my library that has an image, it is the same image on their iTunes bio. For every microphone, the artists bio is text only.

[![My artist Library](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xkUd.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xkUd.jpg)
[![Dillinger Escape Plan](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZhsD.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UZhsD.jpg)
[![Faith No More](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qsbg.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9qsbg.jpg)
[![<NAME>](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mw2Hz.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mw2Hz.jpg)
[![Jasta](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fIyYC.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fIyYC.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: It's true that the Artist picture (when iTunes actually posts it) comes from the artist's bio, but that doesn't mean it will show up. Take a look at these two photos. The one on the left side shows the microphone where <NAME>'s photo should be. The one on the right shows <NAME>'s bio page where there IS a photo in place.

It would be easier to look the other way if there was consistency. I'd just chalk it up as being a work in progress. That's just not the case. It's a bug that Apple has just ignored since the release of 12.5.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/133xd.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/133xd.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I found something interesting. While iTunes and iOS iphone have lots of microphones for my artists, I recently downloaded Apple Music for my Android Note 9. In that version, the vast majority of my artists show either a photo or it shows the album cover from one of the albums (something it used to show as a default prior to 12.5). Why would Apple Music on Android show something not even seen in iTunes or iOS?!?

See below, iTunes, iOS and then Android Apple Music

[![MacOS/iTunes](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ztp8E.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ztp8E.png)
[![iPhone/iOS](https://i.stack.imgur.com/M51yi.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/M51yi.png)
[![Android Apple Music](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aywDR.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aywDR.jpg)
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: A few days ago, I decided to move nearly 80,000 messages from an IMAP server to a Gmail server using Mail.app on Sierra 10.12.1:[![Mail.app Activity window showing two tasks: ](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzHOf.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VzHOf.png)

This task still hasn't completed.

"Checking for Mail…" comes and goes as one might expect, and normal mail functionality seems to work fine. Connection Doctor shows nothing strange.

However, this task has been going on for days, and moves *very slowly*—I've left the computer on all night and it only chews through a few thousand, occasionally stopping with an error. If I restart Mail.app (it takes a bit to quit), it eventually comes back up with the same 79,718 messages needing to be moved.

Is there any way to terminate this process? I'm inclined to try another tool at this point, but I'd like Mail.app to stop trying to move these messages.<issue_comment>username_1: Two things which come to mind that you could try are:

* pressing the `Command` + `.` keys
* pressing the `ESC` key

Either way you may need to do this a few times and wait for the task to register what you're doing.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Delete the account that you were moving mail to and it will cancel the move.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: The problem is likely Gmail. It's not well known, but Gmail throttles paid and free accounts once they move a certain amt of mail in the day. The last time I checked, it was 500 MB of mail -- and then you were throttled for 24 hours.

Maybe things have changed -- but this has been my experience in the past. Want to test it? Disable the Gmail account, and see if the other accounts download more quickly.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: For me, quitting Mail seemed to cancel the stuck move.

Attempting to move the same messages again seems to get stuck once more but I'm guessing it's just taking a long time because there are several thousand.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I have a similar problem having accidentally moved / copied an archive folder of ~65,000 mails to a public folder on my employers mail server ...

After having spent all day copying mails, it is now in a near-endless loop showing a server error message for each further mail that it cannot be copied because the "quota" is exceeded.

Force-quitting and restarting Mail (with/without SHIFT key held) does not help as the process simply starts from the beginning again after a few seconds.

Restarting the computer does not help.

Deactivating Mail-Sync for that account does not help.

The side effect is that I am unable to use Apple Mail for ANY of the several accounts on the machine (MBP).

My only workaround is to use other clients / web-based mail clients

The only solution may be the suggested one to delete the mail account. :(
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I bought my base model 15" MacBook Pro w/ Touch Bar the day it was released, and I just received it yesterday. I've been copying and downloading all the data and files that I needed and the battery didn't last me more than 5 hours, if even 4. I have no idea what is wrong with it, but it's really overheating and I almost never hear the fan running, which also alerts me.

Today I played Crossfire, a game with very basic graphics, on Windows 10 Bootcamp and it was ON FIRE! I had to close the game because of the laptop's temperature. Again, I did not hear the fan.

Things I've done:

* Reset the System Management Controller (SMC)
* Run hardware diagnostics by restarting and pressing the `D` key while booting. This was the first time I actually clearly heard the fan. The overall results were that it found no hardware problems.
* I called Apple, but they had no idea what they were telling me as they were following a written script, although a Senior Advisor was talking to me regarding the issue.

Now I have had it just for two days so far, and I have a two-week return period. Should I wait more and see how everything will work out, or should I return it?

Has anyone experienced the same issue? Is there anything else for me to try?<issue_comment>username_1: How did you reset the SMC? There are different processes depending on Mac model. Just to make sure, in your case the process is as follows:

1. Shut down your computer
2. Keep the power cable **plugged in**.
3. Press at the same time `shift``option``control` (on the left side of the keyboard) ***and*** the `power button`
4. Let go
5. Turn your computer back on with the power button.

Also, do you actually *know* what the temperature is? If so, please add this to your question as it's a bit hard for the community to help/comment without knowing what it is. You can use software such as [Monit](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/monit/id1014850245?mt=12), [Fanny](http://fannywidget.com) (an unfortunate name!) or [iStat Menus](https://bjango.com/mac/istatmenus/) to measure temperature and fan speed.

Regardless, as a point of reference, this [resource](https://www.intelmactemp.com/list) (which can be filtered) will give you an idea of the wide range of temperatures that Macs can work with. It may be a bit too early to include any data for your model, but there is a lot of data for MacBook Pro models listed. As an aside, my MBP temp is regularly between 66 and 81 degrees, and my fans are regularly at 6200 RPM when my CPU usage is high.

All that said, if I was in your shoes and confident that it's overheating and the fans aren't activating as they should, then I'd be making a Genius Bar appointment to have them test it. If a Genius Bar appointment isn't possible, and you have the option of returning it, then maybe that's what you should do and buy another one.

Finally, in terms of your battery life, was the 4hr-5hr range just your initial range, or has it only lasted that long consistently? I ask because downloading and copying all the data you needed on your MBP is likely to be a much greater burden on your battery than normal everyday usage.

Feel free to post back if you get any more info or have any other questions.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: My 15" MBP w/ touchbar was overheating as well with as simple a task as streaming Netflix. I was roaming around the internet about temperature conditions and if cold weather could mess up my MBP as where I store it it could get very cold. I came across the setting of putting the "hard disk to sleep when possible" as a potentially damaging setting for my MBP in cold weather and I realized that maybe it had something to do with my computer overheating. I then unmarked the setting a lo and behold, I am now streaming Netflix without my laptop becoming hot. Try seeing if you have that setting on then turn it off and run your laptop, it could potentially help.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: A brand new computer should not give you such problems. I would return it within the two-week time window and ask for a full refund.

Some people I work for need to buy new MacBook Pros, but it's hard to recommend them right now. For one person in particular, battery life is crucial. Everything I've heard so far about battery life, the new Apple MacBook Pros are lemons.

It's very disappointing, especially since it's been such a long time since these models were updated — people have been waiting for them. They're not selling these new machines any cheaper either, they ought to work at least as good as the previous generation!

Hopefully they'll come up with a revision that fixes the issues — meanwhile, if you can still get a full refund on your brand new MacBook, that's what I'd do.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: The problem you discribed is exactly the same that I have with my new MBP 15" Touchbar (2,9Ghz, Radeon 460).
The reason why it's overheating is, that the fans do not automatically accelerate when there's a higher workload. They are continuously running at 2000 rpm.

My solution: Use iStat Menus

There you can manually increase the rpm to medium (3500-4000rpm) and high (4500+).
You will see, if you manually adjust the fans, the MBP will work great and there won't be any overheating issues.

BUT that's not how a notebook should work. It must automatically adjust the fans.
I talked to several apple support guys (In Germany) and they all told me, that they havent experienced such a thing yet. I did the same things like you, resetting NVRAM, resetting SMC and I even reinstalled the OS. Nothing helped.

It may be a firmware issue that will be fixed in the future. However it seems like just a minority of MBP Touchbar customers are facing this issue.
Most likely I will exchange my notebook in January (since it's not available at the moment xD )
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: I am having the exact same issue, & even after apple provided a replacement device to me today at 6pm this issue has not been resolved.

Backstory: My original device was picked up 2 weeks ago, from the Pasadena store. Immediately that night I noticed that the heat was so bad the equipment was hot to touch, and even spreading to the sides and top other portions of the device. I reported it via online chat and immediately apple business contacted me the next day scheduling a Genius Bar appointment. During that appointment the genius tech wouldn't tell me what was wrong but stated after only a couple minutes that the device needed to be sent to engineering once it was returned for investigation, and they would provide a replacement no questions asked. The replacement device arrived tonight and 30 minutes into using it (Safari, Sublime text install, and web browsing on a solid surface it was so hot that it begin causing other issues( slowed keyboard response onscreen, screen flicker, lag). I contacted support again, and they immediately setup an appointment with Genius Bar for 6am tomorrow. I am really losing faith in this model but don't know what to do at this point because it appears that no one knows what the root cause of the issue is. Friends of mine have the same model without issues. If anyone has any details please share.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Recently I started seeing News notifications on my Apple Watch:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8NC2H.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8NC2H.png)

I've confirmed that News is turned off in the Watch app on my iPhone under Notifications:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtptT.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZtptT.png)

But I keep getting the notifications. I've tried turning News notifications on, and then off again. But I keep getting them.

Am I unaware of some other necessary setting that will disable these notifications?<issue_comment>username_1: I have been having the same issue. It must be a bug. Please report it to Apple here:

<http://www.apple.com/feedback/watch.html>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I agree with username_1. I actually spent a lot of time on the phone with Apple support today with the same issue. Three different support specialists (one senior), and none of them had a solution.

My solution was to go into the news app and shut off all the alerts I really didn't care about. It's a work around for now until the next update fixes it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I deleted the News app just now. Hope that stops the notifications. Workaround will do for now until there is a solution.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Actually I was having the same problem and discovered why. In the News app itself there are some notification settings. Why it's so obscure and hard to find is unlike Apple, but it's there all the same.

Go to the News app and tap on the Favorites tab. At the very top you'll see three things: a bell gliph, a Favorites option (for sorting), and an Edit button. Tap on the bell gliph. It's for configuring the notifications.

![Favorites screen](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QxgY8.jpg)

From there it's pretty self explanatory. You can turn on or off all notifications right there. It doesn't explicitly say Apple Watch notifications, but they are somehow intrinsically connected. I disabled all of them and it stopped harassing me on my watch.

They really should make the notification options separate for iOS and the watch. Seems dumb how I have to go in to a place that makes no sense just to turn off stuff.

Incidentally you can also stop the annoying barrage of default news sources here on the Favorites screen. Just hit Edit and remove them.
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: What is the proper name/number of the proper cable to get the fastest charging and data transfer for the new MacBook Pro?

Obviously it came with a wall charger and a cable but I am looking to purchase a 3rd party cable/adapter and I am finding it very confusing between all the USB-3, USB-C, USB 2.0 Type-C, Thunderbolt 3...

Which cable and wall charger is the right kind/type to get the fastest charging and data transfer? If you could recommend or link to some it would be appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> What is the proper name/number of the proper cable to get the fastest
> charging and data transfer for the new MacBook Pro?
>
>
>

### Charging

Charging has more to do with the adapter than it does with the cable.

The new MacBook Pro uses an 87W/61W (15" and 13" MacBook Pro respectively) power adapter. So, if you use a 60W power adapter it *will* charge, but slowly *regardless of the cable*. To get the maximum speed, you need a charger equal to or greater than the specified power adapter rating.

As of the time of this writing, there are no USB-C power adapter greater than 61W available. Unfortunately, you have to use the Apple supplied power adapter until 3rd party adapters are released onto the market. That said, the 87W power adapter will work just fine on the MacBook Pro 13" (61W).

Any USB-C cable will be able to handle up to 100W of power. My recommendation is to get a good cable from a reputable manufacturer. I have always had good results with Anker products

### Data Transfers

If you have a USB-C cable (it conforms to the USB 3.1 specification) it will handle transfer speeds of 10Gbs. Period. If it's a USB-C cable, that's the maximum you will get.

If you have a Thunderbolt device (storage) then you need to get a Thunderbolt 3 cable. Belkin makes a high quality Thunderbolt 3 cable. The data transfer rate is 40Gbs. While it *uses* a USB-C connector, and carries the USB signal, unlike a USB cable, it also carries the Thunderbolt signal thus the price difference.

**Important: You will not get higher data transfer rates by plugging in a USB-C type Thunderbolt cable into a USB-C device. You will get USB-C speeds of 10Gbs**

### What cable do you get?

The question is, *what are you connecting?*

If you are connecting a USB device, then get the USB cable. If you are connecting a Thunderbolt device, then get a Thunderbolt cable. Regardless, both cables will charge at whatever rate your power adapter can deliver and will transfer data only as fast as your device will allow.
Upvotes: -1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: When it comes to USB-C cables it's fast, long, cheap, pick two.

Passive cables are going to be the least expensive. By being passive they avoid expensive electronics but they also put limits on length and bandwidth. The faster the cable the shorter it must be. Unrelated to the length of the cable is it's capability to carry current. There are two current ratings for USB-C cables, 3 amps and 5 amps. All USB-C compliant cables must be able to carry 3 amps safely. Those rated for 5 amps must be "tagged" electronically to tell the charger and device it is capable of carrying 5 amps. Even though they will have a electronics in them to indicate this current carrying capability they can still be considered "passive" because they do not have any electronics on the data carrying conductors.

There is no easy way to tell a 3 amp cable from a 5 amp cable. The difference in thickness of the conductors that carry the current is quite small and so it is easily disguised by the insulating jacket which can have considerable variance in thickness depending on the composition and quality. Simply, a 5 amp cable is not necessarily thicker than a 3 amp cable.

What are commonly called "charge only" USB-C cables are in fact USB 2.0 cables. These are often relatively inexpensive because they have no active circuitry except perhaps the 5 amp "tag". There's three ways I am aware of for USB-PD devices to negotiate power delivery over a cable, and a USB-C charging cable will have to support all three to be considered USB-C and USB-PD compliant. One is to negotiate power on the USB 2.0 data lines. Another is to use the configuration channel pins to negotiate power. The third means uses communications on the Vbus lines. Because USB 2.0 communications is an option for USB-PD negotiation these cables can be used for connecting devices at 480 Mbps even though they are advertised as "charge only". Also because they must adhere to the USB 2.0 specification for communications they cannot be longer than USB 2.0 allows. This length limit for a passive USB 2.0 cable is 5 meters, but I have yet to actually see a passive USB-C cable that is this long, 2 or 3 meters will be far more common. There are of course USB 2.0 cables longer than 5 meters but they do this with a data repeater in the middle, these are not passive cables and they are not cheap.

Passive USB-C cables for 5, 10, or 20 Gbps will be limited to 1 meter or less. As a matter of keeping these inexpensive they will often also be limited to 3 amps so as to avoid having the electronic tag and heavier power conductors. Passive 40 Gbps Thunderbolt and USB4 cables will be noticeably less than 1 meter, they will be advertised as 0.8, 0.7, 0.5, or something in length. Passive cables by their nature of being just a bundle of wires will work just as well (or poorly) for Thunderbolt, USB, DisplayPort, HDMI, or any alternate mode as any other.

Active cables are not limited in length like passive cables. Because they have active electronics in them they will have some limits on the protocols they support, and they will be much more expensive than a passive cable of the same length.

How can anyone tell these cables apart? One way is by the markings on the ends of the cables. It's not illegal to make a cable that does not comply with the USB-C spec. It is illegal to make a non-compliant cable and put trademarked USB iconography on the cable. The same goes for Thunderbolt. The people behind USB and Thunderbolt will defend those symbols because their income depends on people trusting those symbols.

To know how much bandwidth a cable supports look for the icon. The standard USB "trident" means it supports USB 2.0. The USB trident with the stylized "SS" means it supports at least 5 Gbps, cables that support 10 Gbps will have a 10 next to the trident, and you can guess what it means if you see 20 or 40. Thunderbolt cables will have the Thunderbolt icon, and those that support Thunderbolt 3 often have a little 3 next to the symbol.

You likely won't much care if you have an active or passive cable. I went through that discussion so as to explain why you might see a 1 meter cable cost twice as much as a 0.8 meter cable, and a 2 meter cable only a few dollars more than a 1 meter cable. It will also explain why one 2 meter cable will make your external drive work real fast and another will make it work real slow.

So far I've been able to keep my USB-C cables apart by buying only passive cables. I know my 2 meter cables are 5 amp and 480 Mbps, and my 1 meter cables are 3 amp and 10 Gbps. If I need an active cable in the future then I'll try to make it distinctive by getting it in a unique color or I'll have to pay closer attention to the markings on the cable ends.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to use a MacBook as a keyboard/mouse on a Windows computer, so everything I did on the MacBook would be reflected on the Windows computer? Would this be possible perhaps in some form of a Target Display Mode?<issue_comment>username_1: There's no *native* way to do this. However, you may be able to achieve what you want through the use of software. Below are some options I can think of that you could test:

* [Synergy](http://synergy-foss.org/fi/)
* [Remote Desktop Connection](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=18140)
* [Team Viewer](https://www.teamviewer.com/)
* [ShareMouse](http://www.keyboard-and-mouse-sharing.com/)

How well any of these work for you (or meet your needs) will depend on your particular requirements.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Install Synergy on both the Mac and the PC. What you are talking about is software KVM for Keyboard, Video, Mouse. You will be able to move your mouse from the laptop screen to the PC screen. When your mouse pointer is on the MacBook you can use its keyboard to type there, when it is on the PC your keyboard will type on the PC. There is also a function to share the clipboard between them, so that you can copy something from your Mac and paste onto the PC and visa-versa.

Target Disk Mode is something else, it's to use one Mac as an external hard drive for a second Mac. <http://osxdaily.com/2010/04/07/how-to-boot-a-mac-in-target-disk-mode/>
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I installed python3 a few days ago, but I need to use version 2.7 for school. When I run in terminal, it shows like below:

```
RandeMacBook-Pro:~ ranshu$ which python
/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.7/bin/python
RandeMacBook-Pro:~ ranshu$ which python3
/usr/local/bin/python3

```

I tried to uninstall python3 in Finder but my Mac still used python3.

How do I cleanly uninstall version 3?<issue_comment>username_1: If you used homebrew to install python3 the command to remove it is

```
brew rmtree python3

```

You should be able to have both versions installed. Call your scripts via

```
 python myScript.py

```

This will use your python2.7. If you want to use python3 the command would be

```
python3 myScript.py

```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try

pyenv:

To get all installed versions:

```
pyenv versions

```

To get uninstall specific version

```
pyenv uninstall 3.5.0

```

Similarly to install specific version

```
pyenv install 2.7.10

```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: `rmtree` verb is not available in the default install of Homebrew.

```
MacBook-Pro:~ admin$ brew rmtree python3
Error: Unknown command: rmtree

```

You can use `uninstall` verb as:

```
MacBook-Pro:~ admin$ brew uninstall python3
Uninstalling /usr/local/Cellar/python/3.6.5... (5,102 files, 102.9MB)
MacBook-Pro:~ admin$ python3
-bash: python3: command not found
MacBook-Pro:~ admin$ python
Python 2.7.10 (default, Oct  6 2017, 22:29:07)
[GCC 4.2.1 Compatible Apple LLVM 9.0.0 (clang-900.0.31)] on darwin
Type "help", "copyright", "credits" or "license" for more information.

```

However, `rmtree` can be installed by executing the following:

```
$ brew tap beeftornado/rmtree
$ brew rmtree

```

Using `rmtree`, one can cleanly and completely remove a package installed from Homebrew, along with all of its dependencies.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: It depends on how you installed python3.

If you installed python3 via the official mac installer(.dmg), you need to remove it from Finder -> applications. Just drag the python3.x icon to the Trash icon on the bottom right corner. If you had installed several versions of python3, you may find more than one python3.x icons, each one corresponds to a single python3 version instance, you may choose which one to remove.

If you installed python3 via a package manager like brew, you need to use the remove command from the package manager, for example, brew uninstall python3.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: There’s no need to uninstall python3 if you remove the executable from your path. Just keep calling the older version or use a tool like `pyenv` to juggle which is preferred if you don’t like or care to control your path.

You may have multiple versions of Python 3.x installed on your Mac. To uninstall all of them, first check which are installed:

```
brew list | grep python

```

Let's say you have 3.9 and 3.7 installed. To remove 3.9, run this command:

```
brew uninstall python@3.9

```

To remove 3.7, just replace `3.9` with `3.7` above.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_6: If the python3 location is in /usr/bin/python3 then you won't be able to delete it directly, macOS may throw an error like “Operation not permitted” or “read only file system” etc, because macOS mounts the system files as a read-only partition and use a mechanism called system integrity protection (csrutil).

To remove the file you need to do the the following steps,

1. Reboot the Mac OS into recovery mode
2. Open disk utility
3. Unmount “Macintosh HD” and mount again
4. Open terminal from utilities
5. Run command 'csrutil disable'
6. Remove the file from 'rm /volumes/macintosh\ hd/usr/bin/python3'
7. Run command 'csrutil enable'
8. Reboot the OS again
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I have configured my keyboard for French and US layouts. I cannot find a tilde anywhere on there.

Normally, the tilde (~) is on the upper case of the key to the left of the "1" character.

It is pretty essential if you use the terminal a lot, as it allows you to go to directly somebody else's home directory. `cd ~suzanne` takes you to suzanne's home. Since, as a Linux user, I make a lot of use of the terminal, I really need the tilde.<issue_comment>username_1: Choose the keyboard viewer from the input menu on the menu bar. If you have the visible Keyboard in front of you, you can find out which keyboard combination for the Tilde is in both US and French

See also [Apple Support Page](https://support.apple.com/kb/PH18449?locale=en_US&viewlocale=en_US) to enable this feature.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: With the input source set to US (US flag in the top right of the screen), the tilde is normally at Shift ` (the key to the left of 1). If you get something else there, try the Shift on the key at the leftmost end of the bottom row (to the left of z on qwerty, to the left of w on azerty)

With the input source set to French (French flag in the top right of the screen), the tilde is at Option/alt n plus space.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: First time Mac user. I am confused by the fact that the finder application is always open. For example, when switching apps with `Cmd`+`Tab`, it is always there, even when there are no windows opened for the app. `Cmd`-tabbing to Finder with no windows/tabs opened for it has no effect (it seems to me it would more intuitive to open a new tab when this action is chosen).

Furthermore, there is no 'Close app' option when I right click the Finder icon in the dock. Am I misunderstanding something about the Finder app? Is it required for proper functioning of macOS? From what I see, Finder is just a file browser, which by no means should be forced to be open 100% of the time.<issue_comment>username_1: It's not only a "file browser", but it's responsible for quite a bit of GUI functionality such as the Desktop, following paths and connecting to servers. Finder is always running, and a launch service will relaunch it if it is quit unnaturally. Much like File Explorer (explorer.exe) on Windows, you shouldn't quit it. Quit functionality can be added back to Finder, but you really shouldn't unless you have a very good reason for it.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: The main reason it's always open is that it displays the icons on the desktop. You can check what the finder does by enabling the "Quit" menu feature. To do this, launch the Terminal application and enter the following commands:

```
defaults write com.apple.finder QuitMenuItem -bool YES

```

Hit return. Then restart the Finder by running

```
killall Finder

```

Close the Terminal. Click on the Desktop, choose "Finder" in the top bar, and "Quit Finder". Now you're running without Finder. First thing you'll notice is that all Desktop icons will be gone.

To get your desktop icons back, just click on Finder in the Dock.

If you want to remove the "Quit Finder" menu item, you can do that with:

```
defaults write com.apple.finder QuitMenuItem -bool NO

```
Upvotes: 7 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Think of the background process for Finder akin to that of the 'Windows Explorer' background process on Windows. As mentioned above, it is essential for the MacOS UI & GUI elements on the desktop. If you are new to Mac, take a look at the Activity Monitor App in your Utilities folder. This is essentially the Mac equivalent to Task Manager on Windows and can help organize/debug processes in the background.
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: I'd like to limit my exposure to the WiFi signal of my laptop while it is sitting on my belly or lower while being in bed.

Is there a way to auto-turn off the WiFi directly after a website has finished loading? And to only turn it back on when I click another link?<issue_comment>username_1: This is neither practical nor feasible.

### Not practical.

So, in your scenario, the WiFi connection drops as soon as you load your webpage and theoretically, the computer is now waiting for you to click on something to reconnect. Here are just two (off the top of my head) problems with that scenario:

**Auto Refresh**
A small piece of code embedded within the meta tags of the HTML code will auto refresh that page:

```

```

This is equivalent to hitting refresh. How is the OS supposed to distinguish between a user generated refresh and one generated in meta? That's a lot of keyboard trapping.

**HTTP Sessions.** Depending on the website you visit, they may be employing the use of cookies that track user sessions - especially so if you log in. Once you disconnect from the network, your session will expire requiring a new login. There is no "trapping" on the client side for this because it's a server generated session/cookie.

### Not feasible.

For all intents and purposes your network settings and your browser session are "sandboxed" from each other. Could you imagine the chaos you could cause by having an app or (worse) a browser's extension with the ability to affect the state of *hardware* based on what you click? This would be an attacker's dream scenario.

Additionally, WiFi (and Bluetooth) antennas are in the LCD enclosure, not the bottom of the laptop. So, unless you are wearing shorts made of lead or lined with a highly reflective material (reflecting out, of course), you are fully exposed to WiFi signals since they are omni directional.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Use e.g. Icefloor to configure your computer to allow ports 80 and 443 only to block all non-http traffic. Disable javascript and flash etc. in the browser. This will result a behaviour very close to the one you desire. The amount of energy that is transmitted if your wlan is idle is minimal, and you shouldn't worry about that. Actually, establishing a connecion each time you click would put more energy into your abdomen. You may additionally want to use a browser that allows you to disable auto-refresh like e.g. firefox.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: Is there any downside of encrypting my OS X 10.10.5 laptop via FileVault, in terms of usability?

Obviously, if I lose the password I can no longer use the laptop. (out of interest is that correct, will the laptop be completely un usable, or will the hard drive be unusable eg. if I were to swap out the HD for a new HD could i use the laptop again)

But apart from that would any other features stop working when the laptop was unlocked because it is encrypted (e.g. file sharing, printer sharing, Apple Remote Desktop, performance degradation, security issues).

I'm setting up the MacBook as new and debating turning on FileVault or not.<issue_comment>username_1: You might get some performance degradation, but for what it's worth I've never noticed any.

You won't lose any functionality whatsoever. The only inconvenience I've run into is I can no longer reboot my Mac remotely (as I'd need my password to unlock it again). Other than that, it's been fine.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The implementation of Corestorage / Filevault2 is pretty great. That means you will hardly notice that your system is encrypted. I see the following points you may want to consider:

* As you say: If you loose the passcode it is next to impossible to access your data.
* There is a very slight performance hit because the CPU needs to constantly encrypt and decrypt your data. But moderns CPUs are optimised to do so and therefore the impact is negligible.
* If your disk is corrupted or faulty in some way it may be more difficult to fix a corestorage volume than a standard HFS volume. Personally, this has never been a problem for me.
* Passwordless boot or waking from standby is not possible anymore.
* The most obvious difference is pre-boot authentication. That means you need to enter your password before the Mac boots up. Without encryption the system would boot and only require your password to log into an account.
* Depending on your level of paranoia Filevault2 alone may not be enough. You should consider to also encrypt your backups (even higher risk for total data loss) and activate the option to destroy the password from RAM while the Mac sleeps.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Just wanted to add something because I was hindered by a change no mentioned above. It's not a deal breaker but knowing would have saved me a lot of time and worry.

1. This may just be an issue with my computer; but when booting in recovery mode (holding 'option' at boot) I will not be given the built in recovery partition as an option. Instead I have to (hold 'command-r' on boot) to access it.
2. When using disk Utility in Recovery Mode you are required to fist Mount the FileVault protected drive. Without doing so will return worrying errors that state unsuitability; instead of telling you to mount first, which would help immensely. It makes sense why since you are not required to enter the FileVault decryption password to startup from recovery OS, so disk utility has not been given access yet. To do so click the greyed out disk icon and click Mount.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: For about 6 months I have had problems with iCloud Keychain.

Every time I login with my iCloud account on a new computer (e.g. a Mac Pro at work and a brand new MBP 15" with touch bar) iMessage, FaceTime, and Handoff do not work.

It will not let me login to either FaceTime or iMessage. (and somehow, Handoff seems to be linked to this problem).

It displays this error:

>
> Could not sign in to iMessage.
>
>
> An error occurred during activation. Try again.
>
>
>

I have tried a bunch of things: rebooting, resetting PRAM/SMC, reformatting the hard drive, re-installing the OS, upgrading the OS over 6 months time, calling Apple support for 5 hours.

The only solution I've found after all of this are two **keychain** items:

>
> ids: identity-rsa-private-key
>
>
> ids: identity-rsa-public-key
>
>
>

If I delete these two keychain items, and reboot the system, I can login for **one** session. As soon as I log-out, or reboot the computer, it kicks me out again.

If I create a new User on the machine, and do not enable iCloud Keychain sync in the iCloud settings, everything works fine. I can login to iMessage and FaceTime. As soon as I sync iCloud Keychain, everything breaks once the machine is rebooted or I logout. At which point, you either have to continue deleting the keychain items above, or delete the entire user and start over without syncing iCloud Keychain.

I can probably live without iCloud Keychain. I haven't used 1Password yet, but I'm sure it's awesome. My hesitation is that there are other things stored in iCloud Keychain, like Apple Pay, which would be nice to sync. I feel like iCloud Keychain will only become more important as all of my devices become more connected in the coming years.

Any ideas on how to fix iCloud Keychain from doing this? Thanks for your help!<issue_comment>username_1: I finally found a solution.

The iCloud Keychain had several system keychain items. These items were not supposed to be in the iCloud Keychain and were overriding the "login" Keychain items whenever I would request login to Messages or FaceTime.

I found the error by comparing my Keychain to a friend's laptop. I deleted everything from iCloud Keychain that was not in my friend's Keychain. (Well, anything that started with com.apple or ids.) (I left web page passwords.)

Once these deletions synced across devices, and I rebooted each machine, everything works perfectly.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Whenever I tried to sign in with my Apple ID to Messages, FaceTime, or the App Store on macOS Sierra 10.12.6 I got the error message: "An error occurred during authentication."

[![An error occurred during authentication.](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYtJe.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SYtJe.png)

I fixed it by moving this file to the trash:
`/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/NetworkInterfaces.plist`

and restarting the computer.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: As unexpected as it is, and as mentioned in the [support entry](https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204408), [resetting the NVRam](https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204063) did it for me.

>
> *"Shut down your Mac, then turn it on and immediately press and hold these four keys together: **Option, Command, P, and R**. You can release the keys after about 20 seconds, during which your Mac might appear to restart."*
>
>
>

[![NVRam reset combination](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7OHqZ.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7OHqZ.png)
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: My problem is that when I highlight some text (doesn't matter where or in which application) in order to write over it the cursor, sometimes, suddenly changes position causing a lot of typos.

Let's say I've searched the phrase "stack exchange apple" in Google.

Now I want to search for stack overflow so I first highlight "exchange" and "apple" this way:

[![highlighted stack exchange](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxo4Z.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uxo4Z.png)

and then I simply type "overflow" in order to write over the highlighted text. What I sometimes end up with is this:

[![wrong stack overflow](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEYsH.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEYsH.png)

And I can assure you that I didn't press any arrow keys or trackpad or mouse button of sort. I simply wrote in the keyboard "overflow" but what happened is that after I pressed "O" the cursor changed position and the word ended up like this.

I'm running macOS Sierra v10.12.4 on a Mid-2014 15" Macbook Pro

Are there things that can fail or settings to help with this?<issue_comment>username_1: The most likely culprit once you rule out Bluetooth mouse / trackpad and any wrist or liquid input is hardware.

If you can reproduce this on a clean os install onto an external drive (to avoid wiping your normal drive and files and apps) it could be:

* failing battery pressing underneath the trackpad
* failing or damaged capacitive sensing grid
* failing chip that processes the capacitive touch sensor

It's unlikely to be software, but I'd still download and install a clean and updated os to be sure unless you have close and easy access to hardware service.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Same exact problem. I'd be very surprised if this were a physical issue. I have the same problem on two separate Macbook Pro's. Also happens in multiple applications. There's definitely no mousepad bumping either.
 Unfortunately, the behavior difficult to reproduce.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I'm using Finder on macOS, and one major frustration I have is the disorganized grid view that always ends up cluttered and messy until I right click and 'Clean Up by Name'.

I don't mind the grid view in itself, but I'm also fine with list view. What I want is a system where it will use list view 100% of the time, NOT on a folder-by-folder basis, which is what happens when I click on the list view icon in the title bar.

Any help would be much appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: * Open finder
* Select your hard disc
* `Command``J`
* Check the top two check boxes (Always open in list view, browse in list view)
* Click use as defaults
* Open Applications->Utilities->Terminal

>
>
> ```
> sudo find / -name ".DS_Store"  -exec rm {} \;
>
> ```
>
>

* Enter your root password, press enter
Upvotes: 7 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: We use this in scripts to set up our Macs (you may also execute the defaults... from Terminal.app):

```
# Use list view in all Finder windows by default
# Four-letter codes for the other view modes: `icnv`, `clmv`, `glyv`
defaults write com.apple.finder FXPreferredViewStyle -string "Nlsv"

```

As mentioned above, this helps to remove other views, which Finder remembered because of the .DS\_Store files:

```
sudo find / -name ".DS_Store" -exec rm {} \;

```
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: So, a couple weeks ago I went to wake my computer up and the screen just stayed black. Strangely I could feel clicks in the touch pad (which means there is power and the haptic engine is working) but absolutely nothing else. I tried literally all day, to charge it, uncharge it, pressed the power button 1000 different ways and then nothing. So I got an idea:

I opened up the computer and unplugged the battery. Then I plugged in the power... Instantly it boots up. It gets stuck in a loop of half loading, crashing and then starting again. So at this point I plug the battery in and everything boots up and seems good. Except... now the keyboard doesn't work.

So for almost a week I used an external USB keyboard with my computer, scared to death to let it shut down. Then one day... the keyboard just started working again, everything except the arrow keys and the question mark. The arrow keys came back the next day after randomly pressing themselves a bunch, the question mark never did.

Anyways, I was OK with my situation, copy pasting a question mark in from the notepad when I needed it. But now this morning I had the black screen again. This time nothing worked at all, except there was music playing and I could turn the volume up and down and skip songs, but nothing else worked (not the keyboard lights, not the power button)... so I unplugged the battery and jump started it again.

Now my command keys don't work.

This is getting incredibly frustrating and I am appalled that this $3000+ machine has so many strange random problems that have nothing to do with physical damage.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on?<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like a faulty battery that has swollen a bit. Try another battery.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: **If you still have AppleCare coverage I would contact Apple for support and disregard the rest of this answer**

There are a few things you could try to troubleshoot this - but you will need to be patient as troubleshooting is often a process of elimination and takes time.

For starters, I'd do a NVRAM and SMC reset (in that order). Before following the steps below, ensure you have no external hardware connected and that you're using the **built-in keyboard**.

**Reset the NVRAM**

Reset the NVRAM on your MBP as follows:

1. **Shut down your machine.** Yes, a full shut down, not just logging out.
2. Press the `power button` *and then* press the `command``option``p``r` keys. You have to make sure you press these keys **before** the gray screen appears or it won’t work.
3. **Hold those keys down** until your MBP reboots again and you here the startup chime.
4. Let go of the keys and let your MBP reboot normally.

**Note:** When you log back in you ***may*** need to readjust some of your system preferences (e.g. speaker volume, screen resolution, startup disk selection, time zone information, etc).

**Reset the SMC**

There's a couple of ways you can reset the SMC on your MBP, however I prefer the following steps:

1. Shut down your MBP
2. Keep the power cable **plugged in**
3. Press at the same time `shift``option``control` (on the **left** side of the keyboard) ***and*** the `power button`
4. Let go
5. Turn your computer back on with the power button

After resetting both the NVRAM and SMC, use your computer to determine if the issues still persist.

If you're still having problems, the it's time to test your hardware with Apple Diagnostics.

**Run Apple Diagnostics**

Follow the steps below to run Apple Diagnostics:

1. Fully shut down your Mac
2. Restart your Mac
3. Immediately press the `D` key and **keep it down** until you see the Diagnostics screen appear
4. Wait for Diagnostics to finish (this typically only takes a few minutes)
5. Once complete, one of two things will appear on the screen:
	* a *No issues found* message
	* a brief description of any errors found plus further instructions
6. If the diagnostics test does find errors, take a note of what they are

**Note:** If pressing and holding the `D` key at Step 3 doesn't work, start again at Step 1 and, at Step 3 press and hold both the `Option``D` keys instead. This will try and run diagnostics from the internet instead, so you will need to allow more time for it to complete.

Regardless, take a note of what happens and let me know how you went.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: On July 2009, Apple discontinued Shake. No direct application's replacement was announced by Apple, but some features (stabilize and optical flow estimation, to name a few) are now available in Final Cut Pro X 10.4 and Motion 5.4 in 2018.

Apple Shake was built on 32-bit `Carbon API`. I surely understand it's not 64-bit `Cocoa API`, these APIs are different. But `Carbon.framework` is still included in `/System/Library/Frameworks/` in High Sierra, Sierra or El Capitan, and great old apps (such as Shake, Color, Soundtrack Pro) can use it.

I'm still using Shake in High Sierra launching **shake** via Terminal app:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/66aHO.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/66aHO.png)

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/axgFC.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/axgFC.png)

But I can't (for obvious reason) launch Shake via clicking its icon in `Applications` folder:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Bm8A.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Bm8A.png)

So I have two questions:

1. What should I do to bypass this OS limitation and to make Shake run after clicking its icon in Applications folder or on Dock?
2. If the first is impossible, how to get rid of `white crossed-out circle` overlay on Shake's icon (regular icon replacement isn't working in this case)?

**P.S.**

**I FOUND POSSIBLE SOLUTION (thanks to <NAME>en):** [Shake on Mac OS X 10.11.6](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/7661018?start=0&tstart=0)

1. Make a duplicate of Shake.
2. Select "Show Package Contents"
3. Go to the "Contents" folder and open `Info.plist`. Xcode has a plist editor.
4. Edit the entry `com.apple.shake` and change it to something like `com.apple.shake4`.
5. Save the plist file.

Now it's possible to start Shake with a double click from the Finder in High Sierra 10.13.5.

**But there's no `Info.plist` file in `Contents` folder.**<issue_comment>username_1: Your question answers itself.

>
> Apple Shake was built on 32-bit Carbon API. I surely understand it's not 64-bit Cocoa API
>
>
>

Leaving aside the 32 bit versus 64 bit argument; Cocoa is entirely different than Carbon. It's not going to run because the APIs that Shake is referring to (Carbon) are not compatible with what you are running now (Cocoa).

It's important to note that [Carbon was deprecated in 2012](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_%28API%29) with the release of Mountain Lion (OS X 10.8.x). Remember, why and when Apple adds/removes features is entirely their prerogative.

>
> In 2012, with the release of OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion, most Carbon APIs were considered deprecated. The APIs are still accessible to developers and all Carbon applications will run, but the APIs will no longer be updated.
>
>
>

As for Shake running in Terminal, this is an entirely different scenario - Cocoa and Carbon do not come into play - it's strictly a text based interface.

**UPDATE:** After a bit of research, I discovered two things:

* Shake has been relegated to "incompatible software" and Finder will not launch it. Period.
* There's a workaround (see below) to get it functional in El Capitan because the Carbon libraries are still included, though deprecated. Note: This has not been tested/confirmed in Sierra/High Sierra. As this is deemed "Incompatible Software" by Apple, there's no guarantee that the workaround will *fully* work or for how long. YMMV.

**Work Around**

1. Right-click Shake.App
2. Go to *Show Package Contents*.
3. Go to Contents --> MacOS --> shake (select `shake` not `tshake`);
4. Double-click `shake`. It should first open a Terminal Window and then Shake should be running.
5. Create an alias (a shortcut) of the file and place it whenever you want. **Launchpad will not be able to see it**, though you can have the shortcut/alias in your Applications folder.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This is me thinking out aloud, so to speak, but one thing also worth trying is to use either AppleScript or Automator to create an application to do what you're now doing manually via Terminal. Once you've done that, adding the application to your Applications folder will make it available to Launchpad, the Dock, etc.

I'm not sure how familiar you are with either AppleScript or Automator, but using Automator as an example the process would broadly be along these lines:

1. Launch Automator (usually found within your Applications folder)
2. Go to File > New
3. Select Application and click Choose.
4. Above the second column (more on the lefthand side) you'll see a search field at the top of a long list
5. Type "Run" in the field to filter the list
6. One of the options will be **Run Shell Script**
7. Double-click on this option
8. This will add the Run Shell Script window on the right.
9. Now configure and enter the script you need to replicate what you're already doing
10. Go to File > Save (or use `command``S`) to save this as an application

Now you *should* be able to double-click on the application you've created to launch Shake. You can also change the application's icon to whatever you want, add it to the Dock, etc. This will also be available in Launchpad.

**NOTE:** - I'm not sure if I've still got Shake installed on one of my Macs, so I haven't tested this to make sure it'll work with Shake specifically, but in theory it should be fine based on what you're already doing.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: **It works in macOS 10.13.5 High Sierra**. I've made an `Info.plist` and added these lines to it:

```

 CFBundleExecutable
 Shake
 CFBundleGetInfoString
 Shake version 4.1.1
 CFBundleIconFile
 Shake
 CFBundleIdentifier
 com.apple.shake4
 CFBundleName
 Shake
 CFBundlePackageType
 APPL

```

Carbon API, as well as Cocoa API, is tightly integrated with low-level Core Foundation API (`CF`).

Here's useful information about `Bundles` in macOS and iOS:

[Bundle Programming Guide – About Bundles](https://developer.apple.com/library/content/documentation/CoreFoundation/Conceptual/CFBundles/AboutBundles/AboutBundles.html)

[Bundle Programming Guide – Bundle Structures](https://developer.apple.com/library/content/documentation/CoreFoundation/Conceptual/CFBundles/BundleTypes/BundleTypes.html#//apple_ref/doc/uid/10000123i-CH101-SW13)

Now, clicking Shake's icon on Dock I can launch Shake in High Sierra's GUI.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVw5Q.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVw5Q.png)

I can run it not only from Launchpad but also via Terminal as well. It simultaneously allows me to run multiple instances of Shake.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kdaw.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kdaw.png)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I have an external 2TGB HD which I use as a TimeMachine backup.
This developed problems and could not be repaired.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gBh9q.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gBh9q.png)

```
Repairing file system.
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Detected a case-sensitive volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Invalid index key
Incorrect block count for file permStore
(It should be 17 instead of 0)
Incorrect block count for file shutdown_time
(It should be 1 instead of 0)
Rebuilding catalog B-tree.
Disk full error
The volume Time Machine Backups could not be repaired.

```

I bought a new 3TB disc, created a 2TB partition, and attempted to copy `Backups.backupdb`.
Finder spent 24 hours "Preparing to copy"; then failed due to lack of space!

I reformatted and created a 2.5TB partition, Finder has spent 24 hours "Preparing to copy" and is now copying files.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj6bE.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bj6bE.png)

I really don't need all the backups (which go back to 2012) and I don't want TimeMachine to use all the space on my new drive. Ideally I would like to restrict the size of the backup.

My questions are:-
How can I reduce size of `Backups.backupdb`? Is deleting the oldest directories OK?
Is there any way I can get TimeMachine to restrict the size of `Backups.backupdb`, other than resizing the partition?

UPDATE
 My attempt to copy failed after about 30% of the disk was copied.
 I attempted to use `rsync` but while this appeared to run could not create any new files `Operation not permitted (1)`.
 Even though I had used `sudo` I probably should have used a root terminal.
 Ultimately this too failed, due to lack of resources.

I then use `Disk Utility` to copy the image and ran `First Aid`. This found a number of issues, but ultimately failed.

```
Repairing file system.
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Detected a case-sensitive volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Invalid index key
Incorrect block count for file permStore
(It should be 17 instead of 0)
Incorrect block count for file shutdown_time
(It should be 1 instead of 0)
Rebuilding catalog B-tree.
Rechecking volume.
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Detected a case-sensitive volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Incorrect block count for file permStore
(It should be 17 instead of 0)
Incorrect block count for file shutdown_time
(It should be 1 instead of 0)
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking catalog hierarchy.
Checking extended attributes file.
Checking multi-linked directories.
Checking volume bitmap.
Volume bitmap needs minor repair for orphaned blocks
Volume bitmap needs repair for under-allocation
Checking volume information.
Repairing volume.
Rechecking volume.
Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
Detected a case-sensitive volume.
Checking extents overflow file.
Checking catalog file.
Checking multi-linked files.
Checking catalog hierarchy.
The volume Time Machine Backups could not be verified completely.
File system check exit code is 8.
File system verify or repair failed.
Operation failed…

```<issue_comment>username_1: I decided to return to plan A (copy `Backups.backupdb`), (having first made more swap space on my Mac by deleting movies) and closing down all running programs.

After more than 24 hours, this had completed the copy, and the files all looked OK.

I then enabled the disk in Time Machine, and ran a backup. This informed me it was making a new backup, and proceeded to copy 350GiB of data.

This was not quite as I hoped. Inspection of the file system indicated that none of the files were hard linked into the old backups.

As far as Time Machine is concerned, all my backups are there, and sample checks indicate all files seem OK.

Subsequent backups appear to working as normal, files are hard linked into the initial backup.

I did some pruning of earlier backups with `tmutil delete`, but it is obvious I am only going to get back to a 2TiB image with serious pruning.

I did toy with the idea of trying to combine the hard links, but decided I will leave the disk as is, and just accept that I now have a 3TiB Time Machine.
At least I do have all my historical backups if I need them .
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This worked in pre-Sierra you might want to try it. This will set the value to 1TB. You specify the integer value in megabytes.

sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.apple.TimeMachine MaxSize -integer 1000000
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You might consider the fact that Time Machine backs up your system every hour. You problem may not be related to the size of the backups but to the number of backups. There is a 3rd party app named TimeMachineEditor that lets you back up every x hours, daily, weekly or monthly. You need to determine which backup frequency is best for you. The [app is located here](https://tclementdev.com/timemachineeditor/) and its free and simple to use
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: System configuration
====================

* Running Sierra (10.12.5)
* MacBook Pro 13" (Early 2015)

Issue
=====

### Messages and many other options are missing from the system Share menu, both in Safari and in the Share Menu extensions pane.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/napVA.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/napVA.png)

These among others are missing:
-------------------------------

* Messages (most annoying)
* Facebook
* Twitter
* Linkedin
* Vimeo
* Flickr

Here's what I've tried so far with no success:
==============================================

* Update to latest Sierra 10.12.5
* Run [this command line](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/167463/how-to-restore-default-sharing-extension-under-yosemite) to force-reload launch services
* Disable and re-enable iCloud contacts
* Disable and reenable System Integrity Protection

Related observations
====================

* Under Preferences -> Internet Accounts, I cannot check the box next to 'Share Menu' for Facebook, Twitter, Vimeo etc, even though accounts are correctly configured.
[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBRkS.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lBRkS.png)

Really appreciate any help!

Update 7/11:
------------

I just got an old 2011 MackBook Pro repaired, and upgraded it from El Capitan to Sierra. The Share menu works as expected, with Messages as an option. Still not working on the machine with the problem.<issue_comment>username_1: <https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203129>
This is the fix according to apple. I have a very similar problem but this fix enabled only one or two extensions for me. I ran it 3 times. I'm still looking for more info
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: After running the lsregister command from the link I had to log out and log back in again for the share menu to change.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I used to have an old Apple ID, and I have a specific paid app I purchased with that ID. I now have a new Apple ID, and I wanted to update the paid app from the old Apple ID with the new Apple ID.

I am wondering if I deleted the app, would it show up as "purchased" on my new Apple ID?<issue_comment>username_1: If the app was purchased under the old Apple ID, it's considered "owned by" that Apple ID. Updates, redownloads, etc must be done under that Apple ID. There is no way to transfer ownership to a different Apple ID. The only option you have to get it "owned by" your new Apple ID is to delete it, and then re-purchase it under your new Apple ID (and yes, this does mean paying for it again, along with any in-app purchases). Sorry about that...
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No - purchases are not transferable, but you could set up your new account as family share and if the purchases are eligible for sharing, you would then get to use the new appleID and password to download for free the "purchase" from the 'family member"
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I am using Pages 6.2 on macOS 10.12.5. Within Pages settings, Auto-Correction > Correct Spelling Automatically is disabled. I unchecked the Edit > Spelling and Grammar > Check Spelling While Typing menu item. I unchecked the Edit > Substitutions > Text Replacement menu item. Within System Preferences, Keyboard > Text > Correct spelling automatically is disabled. Within Pages, if I select my document's table, open the Format pane on the right, and select Table, I don't see any options regarding spelling correction or autocompletion.

My Pages document consists of a table, with column A consisting of a list of languages, and columns B-K containing translations of the cardinal numbers zero through nine in that row's language. So this is a multi-lingual document, and any suggestions for spelling correction or text substitution are likely to be wrong, and are unwanted.

Let's say I go to row 8 (8A contains "Czech"), column B, and type zer, assuming that this is the exact text that I want to appear there. I see a popup below this cell containing two values: "zéro", "zero". I want neither of these. What key do I press to dismiss the popup? If I press Esc, sometimes the cell is cleared and sometimes my entered text remains as intended. If I press tab, instead of advancing to the next cell, a selection row appears within the unwanted completion suggestions popup. I can click on the next cell (8C), however I should be able to complete my entry without using the mouse. After all, I disabled "Correct spelling automatically" in both applicable locations.

I've found that I can press the right arrow key, then tab, to advance to the next cell without any autocompletion. However, this seems like more work than necessary given that I've disabled all autocomplete options that I can find. Since I am editing over 550 cells in this document alone, I want to do this as efficiently as possible.

I also did a quick test of Numbers 4.2, and I experience the same problem with unwanted completion suggestions appearing in a popup below the cell that must be interacted with before the Tab key will advance to the next cell.<issue_comment>username_1: Currently my best solution is to use the right arrow key to dismiss the autocomplete popup and advance to the next cell. However sometimes it requires one press, sometimes two. This is too inconsistent.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Pages, Numbers, and Excel (untested in Word) all have this feature; what it does is look through that column of the table and, if there are any cells with the same starting letters as what you've typed in, will suggest them. This has nothing to do with autocorrect and everything to do with how accountants use tables, which seems to be the target audience of this feature (stupid as it may be, particularly so since it can't be disabled AFAICT).

One thing to note is that without some prompt to actually fill in the prompt, it will not actually fill it in. So, if you're up to `ten` and have previously typed in `two` and `three`, it will prompt you with those latter numbers as soon as you've typed `t`, but will quickly dismiss them once you add the `e`. It will also dismiss the prompt if what you've typed is identical (disregarding any accents) to what is contained in the prompt; for instance, typing in `zéro` when prompted with `zero`.

If you *really* want to get rid of it immediately, there's several things you can *try*, like using the left and right arrow keys ([as you've already discovered](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/291497/234283)), or adding a random character that doesn't continue the sequence in any cell in that column. The problem with this approach is when you want to continue, and there's more than one or two common letters among them. For instance, if you type in `three` and you've previously done the higher numbers, which include `three hundred`, you can't just do it once and be done with it; the table will prompt you on every character. For this reason I recommend this approach only if what you want to write is entirely contained within another cell, but not identical to it, *and* you've finished with your current cell.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I'm helping a friend migrate his email off of a Macbook and onto an imap server. I've created an imap account on a server to hold the emails.

Is there a way to bulk-copy the contents of local folders ("On My Mac") to the imap server? My friend has folders within folders. Something like this:

* House
	+ message
	+ message
	+ message
	+ Plumbing
		- message
		- message
		- Bills
			* message
		- message
	+ Electrical
		- message
		- message
* Vacation
	+ message
	+ message
	+ Schedules
		- message
		- message
* Jokes
	+ message
	+ message

and so forth. Probably around 50 top-level folders and I have no idea how many subfolders. 2G of email total.

I want to bulk-copy the entire lot to a server so he can access them from his iPad instead. Let's assume he won't be accessing the local folders on his Mac once we get this figured out.

Can this be done, or are we doomed to create the folders one by one and then copy the individual emails?

---

More information as I experimented:

The server is Dovecot

I was transferring folders to the server by simply dragging them within Mail.app. This worked fine in most cases.

Some piece of software in the chain doesn't like dots in folder names, so the folder "Dr.Who" got changed to "Dr" with the subfolder " Who" and then errors occurred. After I spent some time searching for folders with '.' in their names, and renaming them, things went better.

Sometimes when I dragged a folder that contained both messages and subfolders, it went smoothly. Sometimes the top-level folder would be empty and would not allow messages to be stored in it. When that happened, I could look around and find the folder named "*folder* (Messages)" which contained the missing messages. I would then be able to recombine the two folders and rename and I'd be good.

Mail.app really needs a "sort folders alphabetically" function. I found that I could do this manually by quitting Mail, deleting .mboxCache.plist, and restarting Mail.

The `imap-upload` tool would have been perfect for my needs if it had worked. I might look into debugging it.

I'll leave the question open for a while to see if anybody finds a real answer.

---

One more data point: as an experiment, I tried creating the subfolder "Dr. Who" from Thunderbird instead of Mail.app. It created the folder "Dr" with the subfolder " Who". I believe Mail.app uses dots as subfolder specifiers when talking to an IMAP server, but uses slashes for folders on the local system. Thus, a folder name with a dot in it is perfectly acceptable for a local folder, it causes issues when pushed to an IMAP server.<issue_comment>username_1: Informational post.

So … I've been reading up on the IMAP protocol. It seems to me that IMAP doesn't really have a formal concept of subfolders. If you want to name one mailbox "House" and another one "House.Plumbing", that's entirely up to you. It just happens that Mail.app, and probably many other email clients choose to present these folders to you in a hierarchical form.

That also explains why I encountered some higher-level folders that wouldn't accept any messages — if you were to create, e.g. "House.Plumbing" but not "House", Mail.app would show you the un-writable virtual folder "House" with the subfolder "Plumbing". But as far as the IMAP server is concerned, it's just a folder named "House.Plumbing".

(This isn't to say that the IMAP server itself won't store the folders in a hierarchical way, but the standard doesn't say either way, AFAIK.)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_1: Final post: Well, for the record, I just gave up and wrote my own imap client in Python to do the job. It can download and upload any hierarchy of mailboxes from/to a Dovecot server. It should work with any server, but I haven't tested it on others. Thought I would share it.

It worked for my needs. If you use it yourself, and run into a snag, feel free to contact me and maybe I can debug the issue. (No promises.)

<https://github.com/efalk/imap>
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I previously used a MacBook Pro 2016, and I had problems with the `b` where the key produced a `bb` about one third of the time I hit the key. After getting it repaired, several months later, the same problem started with the `N` key.

I now own a MacBook Pro 2017, and I have the same problem with the `M` key, but maybe with an occurrence of only one in forty, which makes it much harder to demonstrate.

It's always the same zone on the keyboard, I was wondering if anyone else was experiencing the same problem and what they did to fix it?<issue_comment>username_1: The current range of MacBook Pros seem to be suffering from this problem with the keyboard. To the point where they have released [this technical note](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT205662) about how to attempt a fix.

But [a recent article](https://theoutline.com/post/2402/the-new-macbook-keyboard-is-ruining-my-life) has brought this to the forefront of the tech-news, and as a result Apple may be forced to take more action on this obvious design flaw. It has reached the point where there is even [a song](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdS3tjEIqUA) now.

I also had a problem with the L key on a new laptop at work. Spare a thought for those of us who live in a country that has no Apple stores. From here in Thailand, any repair that requires a return means a three-week (at least) trip to Singapore. It's still under repair, and we are still waiting for it to come back.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: I have the same problem. I gradually started noticing double key presses for few keys showing up in the text I typed. The offending keys are: `i`, `t` and `e`.

**How to reproduce**

* I went to `Keyboard > Key Repeat > Off`.
* When I press down the `i` and then slide my finger from the left edge to the right edge of the key, it triggers more keypresses.
* If I key my finger still and press down with more pressure, it sometimes triggers more keypresses.

Pressure seems to be important. If I rub lightly it doesn't happen as much.

I wonder what is causing it. I hope its dust. I will clean my keyboard tonight. But seeing as they all occur in the same row, maybe its something to do with the circuitry - I have to research more about how the keyboard works.

---

Sprayed my laptop keyboard with a lot of pressurized air. Did not help at all. the T and I keys are still consistently causing issues.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_3: Finally, if anyone had or has the same issue, Apple is replacing the keyboard free of charge / refunding the past repair :
<https://www.apple.com/support/keyboard-service-program-for-macbook-and-macbook-pro/>

**UPDATE**. There is a small program, called [Unshaky](https://github.com/aahung/Unshaky) written on Swift. It fixed this issue for me. It lets you configure a timeout for each key to suppress duplicate keypresses. For instance, if the 'e' key is giving you trouble, you can configure the timeout for a longer duration and adjust for the best results. There is also a statistics panel that shows how many times a key was suppressed by the software, as well as a detailed breakdown for each key.
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_4: A seemingly workable way is to `Enable Slow keys` under the `Accessibility` setting of `Keyboard`. For me, a slight adjusting above `Short` can mostly resolve the problem.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: So I have a database of folders and files (.txt) and I'm trying to create a program that I can enter keywords and have it search those files, and it will output the text of any files containing the keywords. I have a working code that does just that, but it doesn't search the words individually - it searches for the words together, as a single string.

For instance, if I input "<NAME>," I'd like it to output files that contain each of those words anywhere in the file, even if they aren't next to each other, or in that order.

I would rather avoid doing a repeat loop to input one search term at a time.

I'd also rather avoid setting up hundreds of variables in the code, and do a repeat loop that if a character isn't a space it adds it onto the first blank variable and if it is it skips to the next variable.

If you have any other ideas, that would be great. Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: You might not even need AppleScript. Finder supports Boolean searches as an advanced function. You can save a search and reuse it or make them ad-hoc as your needs change.

* <https://support.apple.com/kb/PH21873>

>
> A Boolean query uses AND, OR, and NOT (known as Boolean operators) to narrow search results. You can also use a minus sign (–), which means AND NOT, to exclude items when you search.
>
>
>

Your ordering clause will be problematic since spotlight doesn’t expose (or doesn’t seven consider in the first place) order of results - just that the string exists in the file.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: *Note*: the text files must be encoded with the "**UTF8**" encoding.

Here's a starting script:

**Example**: The keywords:

>
>
> ```
> "Bill
> Bob
> Joe"
>
> ```
>
>

**fgrep** and **sort** return lines, like this :

>
>
> ```
> /path/of/thisFile.txt:Bill
> /path/of/thisFile.txt:Bob
> /path/of/thisFile.txt:Joe
> /path/of/thisFile2.txt:Bob
> /path/of/thisFile2.txt:Joe
> /path/of/thisFile3.txt:Bob
> /path/subf1/of/some_File.txt:Bill
> /path/subf3/of/some_xzzz_File.txt:Bill
>
> ```
>
>

The script use a loop to check the path of each item in this list.

The script get the path from the first item, it remove ":Bill" at end of the line --> so the path is "**/path/of/thisFile.txt**".

The script check the item (current index + the number of keywords -1), it's the third item, so the third item contains the same path, then the script append the path into a new list

The others items doesn't contains all the keywords.

---

```
set r to text returned of (display dialog "What keywords?" default answer "Joe <NAME>") --- each keyword must be sepearated by a space
set tKeys to my makeKeysForGrep(r)
if tKeys is not "" then
    set masterFolder to choose folder with prompt "Select the source folder .."
    set filesList to my getFilescontainingKeywords(masterFolder, tKeys) -- get a list of files ( each file contains all the keywords)
    --do something with the filesList -- this list contains path of type 'posix path'
end if

on makeKeysForGrep(t)
    (***   delete trailing and leading spaces, replace multiple spaces in a row by one space (clean the string to avoid issue with the unnecessary spaces in the grep command),
     and replace the space character by a linefeed character , so each line contains a keyword.  ***)
    set r to do shell script "perl -pe 's/ +$|^ +//g; s/ +/ /g; s/ /\\n/g; '  <<< " & (quoted form of t) & "| sort -u" without altering line endings
    if r is not linefeed then return text 1 thru -2 of r -- remove the last line (it's a blank line)
    return "" -- r is a a blank line, so return ""
end makeKeysForGrep

on getFilescontainingKeywords(dir, tKeys)
    script o
        property tfiles : {}
    end script
    set numOfKeywords to count (paragraphs of tKeys) -- get the number of keywords
    set tFolder to quoted form of POSIX path of dir
    set o's tfiles to do shell script "fgrep -R -o -w  --include \"*.txt\" " & (quoted form of tKeys) & " " & tFolder & " | sort -u"
    -- fgrep return the full path + ":" + the keyword, sort -u  : sort the paths and deletes duplicate lines (because the same file can contains multiple occcurences of a keyword)

    if o's tfiles is not "" then
        if numOfKeywords = 1 then return o's tfiles -- no need to continue because one keyword only,  return all Files
        set l to {}
        set o's tfiles to paragraphs of o's tfiles
        set tc to count o's tfiles
        set firstKeyword to ":" & (paragraph 1 of tKeys)
        set numCh to (length of firstKeyword) + 1
        set i to 1
        repeat while (i < tc) -- check each path in the list, the same path must exists  numOfKeywords  in a row
            set thisItem to (item i of o's tfiles)
            if thisItem ends with firstKeyword then
                set textFilepath to text 1 thru -numCh of thisItem
                set j to (i + numOfKeywords - 1)
                if j > tc then exit repeat
                if (item j of o's tfiles) starts with textFilepath then -- this file contains all the keywords
                    set end of l to textFilepath --- append this path to the list
                    set i to i + numOfKeywords -- to skip items wich contains the same path
                else
                    set i to i + 1 -- next file
                end if
            else
                set i to i + 1 -- next file
            end if
        end repeat
        return l -- list of files which contains all the keywords
    end if
    return {} -- No files found
end getFilescontainingKeywords

```

**The options** of `fgrep` :

* The `--include \"*.txt\"` option : only files matching the given
filename pattern are searched, so any name which end with "**.txt**"

The `-w` option : match word only, so **Bob** does not match **Bobby**,
remove this option if you want to match a substring in the text.

The `-R` option : Recursively search subdirectories, remove this
option if you don't want recursion.

Add the `-i` option to perform case insensitive matching. By
default, `fgrep` is case sensitive.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: On a 2008 Mac Pro (a.k.a. MacPro3,1), it apparently has 2 PCIe 2.0 slots and 2 PCIe 1.1 slots. While the difference won't prevent any PCIe device from working, it does make a difference for speed.

I recently ran [GPU-Z](https://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz) under Windows 7 and ran the load test (a '?' icon off to the right next to text about PCIe versions and number of lanes) and found that it stayed at PCIe 1.1 x16. This is with a Radeon HD 270X which is definitely PCIe 3.0 compatible, so I'm a bit surprised it didn't report 2.0!

Trying to look at Intel 5400 chipset documentation, it would seem that the chipset only supports PCIe 1.0/1.1, but all documentation on the MacPro3,1 that I've seen suggests that the first two slots support PCIe 2.0 (which I presume is direct into the CPU rather than the northbridge).

Any confirmation on the spec here? As well, why would GPU-Z only be reporting PCIe 1.1? Could it have something to do with the fact that I have a USB 3.0 card in slot 4?<issue_comment>username_1: Obviously I can only comment on how you've described things in your question, but the results you describe don't quite make sense to me.

This model Mac Pro does indeed have two PCI Express 2.0 slots and two PCI Express 1.1 slots. However, while the two PCI Express 2.0 slots are x16, the two PCI Express 1.1 slots are x4. So, getting a result of PCIe 1.1 x16 really isn't right. In other words, the x16 would indicate PCIe 2.0, not PCIe 1.1 that is only x4.

By default one of the PCIe 2.0 x16 slots was occupied by the GPU, which presumably is where you also have your Radeon HD 270X installed. But if you had it installed in one of the PCIe 1.1 slots, then it should be reporting PCIe 1.1 x4.

In a nusthell, GPU-Z reporting back PCIe 1.1 x16 makes no sense.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Looking at the [***Official*** Apple Technical Specifications page](https://support.apple.com/kb/SP11?locale=en_US), it says the following re: PCI expansion

>
> ***PCI Express expansion***7
>
>
> * Three open full-length PCI Express expansion slots
> 	+ One PCI Express 2.0 x16 slot
> 	+ Two PCI Express x4 slots
>
>
>

So, according to Apple, **the x16 slot is PCIe 2.0**
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If that is a PC (non-EFI) graphics card, running it in Windows on a Mac (Bootcamp) will reduce the speed to PCIE 1.1

You must have an EFI flashed card to run at PCIE 2.0 in Windows on Mac machines. Drivers solve this issue for some PC (non-EFI) cards in OS X, but not Windows.

Real world gaming difference between 2.0 and 1.1 will likely be negligible, and your bottleneck will most likely end up at the CPU or OS X drivers. Generally I see better performance in Windows.

For reference I run a GTX 1060 (non-EFI) on a 2009 Mac Pro; my benchmarks and real world gaming are all better in Windows, at the PCIE 1.1 speeds.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I am a gamer and I wish to record my Mobile Legends in my Mac book. Any suggestions of the tools that I could use? My phone is iPhone 7 Plus. Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: You don't need your Macbook for recording:

1. Make sure you have iOS 11 installed on your phone.
2. Go to settings, control panel, manage control panel, and then add screen recording to the control panel.
3. Open Mobile Legends, swipe up to invoke control center, click on the screen recording button, wait 3 seconds, and now you're recording.
4. When you want to stop recording, invoke control center again and disable the screen recording.

The recording is now available in your photo library.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: QuickTime on the Mac can record tethered iOS devices if the on device capture doesn't suit your needs.
Upvotes: 0