<issue_start>username_0: As you all know, advertising is an important source of revenue for Stack Overflow and it helps us support all the sites across the Stack Exchange Network and the resources that go into maintaining and improving the experience on the platform. We are going to be introducing middle sidebar ads, which have been on the main Stack Overflow site for years, to some of the tech sites including 3D Printing.

The middle sidebar ads have the same standards as any other ads on the platform. Ads are non-intrusive and static. Ads go through a vetting process to ensure they are appropriate for the communities on Stack Exchange. If you see an ad that may not follow our established standards and guidelines, you can let us know by using the "**report this ad**" functionality. Here is a mockup of what these will look like when two ads are showed (the existing ad placement and the new middle sidebar ad placement):

[![sample of ads on the middle side bar of the site](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYWAJ.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYWAJ.jpg)

This ad space won’t be available for display until May 10 because we wanted to give you a heads-up before you started seeing them. Ads are an essential line of business for us and we’re committed to giving you advanced notice whenever we introduce a new form of advertising on the network sites. If you have any questions or concerns, please let us know.<issue_comment>username_1: Instead of random adds, is it possible to attract Stack specific/related adds e.g. contact 3D printer manufacturers for add space.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There used to be a reputation milestone of 200, [reduce ads](https://stackoverflow.com/help/privileges/reduced-ads), which reduced the amount of visible advertising.

However, I notice that on our [Privileges page](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/privileges) it doesn't see to be there. I'm not sure if it was there previously, and has been removed, or was never there. I don't remember it being so, but was this just a privilege only on Stack Overflow?
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I know there is a 3d printing technique, where sheet of papers are cut and glued. Like the ones [Staples](http://www.gizmag.com/staples-mcor-easy-3d-printing/25284/) has in their stores. But this sort of paper isnt recyclable, because of the heavy use of glue.

Is anywhere filament available, which is made of cellulose or other recyclable and bio-degradable material? Or do you know if research is going on in this area?

edit: added bio-degradable<issue_comment>username_1: Check Green-TEC by [extrudr.eu](http://extrudr.eu/collections/bdp) is made from lignin (wood)
or perhaps Algix Dura. They are both bio degradeable.
Green-TEC ist my favorite because of less warping and [fast printing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oqx170kPmg4).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Filament made of Polylactic acid ([PLA](http://reprap.org/wiki/PLA)) is usually made of biological materials (such as corn), and can therefore be considered bio-degradable in most cases.

Whether the filament is 100% bio-degradable (and non-toxic for the surroundings) will depend on the specific formula used by each individual filament manufacturer. (Many manufacturers include various additives to achieve particular effects, such as [glow-in-the-dark](http://3dprintingforbeginners.com/glow-in-the-dark-filament-review/), [metallic](http://colorfabb.com/bronzefill) finish or extra strengh.)

[Woodfill PLA](http://colorfabb.com/woodfill-fine)-like filament might be of extra interest to you, not only because it typically is bio-degradable, but also because it will give you the *look and feel* of being bio-degradable.

Hope that helps!

*PS: there are multiple other filament types that are either recyclable, bio-degradable, or both, although PLA might be the most commonly available of them all.*
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into [my power supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct?

Here is the link to it, [200\*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad](http://www.robotdigg.com/product/209).<issue_comment>username_1: "Mains voltage" is the alternating current provided by your wall outlets (eg 120v in USA). In order to use a mains voltage heatbed in a 3d printer, you will need to wire up your controller to switch an AC SSR. That way, your low-voltage-DC RAMPS board can control AC current.

If you plug a heatbed directly into a power supply, it will never stop heating, and may burn itself up or even cause a fire. Don't do that.

Because mains voltage has enough voltage to kill you, it should only be used for STATIONARY components, such as the PSU supply wiring and Delta heatbeds. With moving beds, particularly Mendel/i3 style Y-beds, wire fatigue and rubbing can expose the electrical conductors and create a serious safety hazard.

200x200mm is a very reasonable size for a DC bed heater, so there's really no good reason to use an AC heater here. It's more complex and less safe. I recommend getting a different heater.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **[edit]**
I just noticed you've mentioned "mains voltage"

**DON'T DO THAT**

If there is 12V on your heatbed and your power supply gives 12 V then you can do it but there will be no control over your heating procedure.

How does it work?

RAMPS is connected to Arduino and then through Arduino to your computer. So applications can say to Arduino - hey, heat it up up to 70°C. So Arduino sends this command to RAMPS and RAMPS is switching on heating, meantime it measures temperature and sends this measurement to Arduino so it knows if your heatbed is already at 70°C or not. Having that knowledge Arduino can decide to still heat it up or rather switch the power of the heatbed off.

If you connect your heatbed directly to your power supply then all of the above controlling sequence will not take place.

Imagine to connect your lightbulb directly to the wall plug. You can do it but then you will not have any chance to switch it on or off. Right? ;)

**So in my opinion - don't do that - don't connect your heatbed directly to your power supply.**
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: The heater pad described in your link is designed for 12 VDC or 24 VDC. Therefore, the term Mains Voltage in the description is misleading and probably wrong. Read the voltage and power requirements again and it appears that the heater pad can be connected directly to the RAMPS 1.4 without an external relay or SSR.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: What materials, available as filaments for use in FDM printing, are known to be the most physically and chemically inert? In particular, stability (not necessarily simultaneously) in the presence of the following should be assumed:

* pH 0-14
* oxidizing agents (ozone, permanganates, dichromates, acidic hydrogen
peroxide)
* organic solvents (particularly acetone, methanol, toluene, formamide)
* temperature up to 160 degrees Celsius
* pressures between ~10^-7 torr and ~2 bar
* oxygen or argon plasma<issue_comment>username_1: PEEK, a plastic known for its superior chemical and physical resilience (<http://www.zeusinc.com/materials/peek/chemical-resistance-chart-peek>), has been successfully used for filament-based printing (<https://3dprint.com/52713/indmatec-peek-fdm-printing-filament/>). However, it is unlikely to be an option on most existing printers given its high melting temperature (around 343 degrees Celsius, <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK>). Though it does not meet all the criteria proposed (for instance, its glass transition temperature is around 143 degrees Celsius), overall it is a fairly good choice.

Teflon, an obvious choice, unfortunately has a decomposition temperature very close to its melting temperature, and appears to be unsuitable for extrusion.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Tough set of requirements and definately pushing into the professional domain. I would recommend checking out **ULTEM 1010 Resin** which is similar to PEEK but has a higher glass transition temp of 215 °C. [Check out the spec sheet from Stratsys.](http://usglobalimages.stratasys.com/Main/Files/Material_Spec_Sheets/MSS_FDM_ULTEM1010.pdf)

I hope this helps. :-)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: TL;DR - For a given Kossel frame size (w.r.t. the vertical and horizontal frame lengths of the aluminium extrusion), what would the length of the carbon fibre rods be?

---

A case in point, from [RepRapWiki - Kossel](http://reprap.org/wiki/Kossel), there is an intriguing note about a scaled down Kossel:

>
> Optionally scale down to a Traveling RepRap that fits within IATA hand
>  luggage size limit (see transportation):
>
>
> * Frame height: 550 mm.
> * Footprint: triangle, 270 mm width, 250 mm across (210 mm 15 x 15 mm aluminium extrusion like OpenBeam + printed corners).
>
>
>

However, there is no mention of the length of the carbon fibre rods (carbon tubes).

Now, as per my previous question, [For a larger build volume, what lengths of 2020 aluminium do I need?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3965/for-a-larger-build-volume-what-lengths-of-2020-aluminium-do-i-need), is there a formula or ratio by which one needs to abide? Whereas in my previous question, the answer was along the lines of: *Not really, you can use any lengths, within reason, and account for it later in the firmware*, I would imagine that the Delta aspect of the printer is somewhat more exacting.

I have tried googling for further information on this Travelling Kossel, but found nothing, except for the information of RepRapWiki.

Looking at the corresponding lengths (vertical/horizontal) of the aluminium versus those of the carbon fibre rods for the Mini and XL:

* 600/240 mm versus 180 mm
* 750/360 mm versus 300 mm

I really can not see what the (trigonometric) relationship is, and therefore can not deduce the lengths of the carbon rods for the Travelling Kossel.

Unless it is simply that the carbon rods are 60 mm shorter than the aluminium horizontals? Is it really as simple as that, or is this just a coincidence? In which case, would the carbon rods be (210 - 60 =) 150 mm?

By extension, imagine if you wanted to build a Kossel XXXL, with a horizontal aluminium extrusion length of, let's say, 1000 mm, would the length of the carbon rods be 940 mm?

Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: Try changing the travel speed in you r slicer, if that doesn't work , try changing out the motors for newer ones.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem, and I solved it by changing the *Z-Axis Feed Rate* to a much higher value (1000 mm/min.) in Repetier Host via *Config -> Printer Settings -> Printer*.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: 1. I would guess (without G code) to change start G code. You should find it in Cura, the feed rate should be low there.
2. Try other slicer and print from SD card.
3. Try using other software. Try Cura it self if SD card printing is not available.

Picture is just an example what to look in Repertier or Cura.
[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4tQ7R.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4tQ7R.jpg)
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to modify this [thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2516525). It's prints OK, but there are some design choices I don't like, so, since the previous makers uploaded their source files, I tried my hand at Sketchup.

My latest round of changes have produced a weird phenomenon, and I'm not sure how to describe it. The slicer sees the GCODE as I intend, but for some reason the printer is printing something different than what the slicer is showing me. I am primarily concerned with the top of this case, but the base does not have the additional screw holes I made, so the phenomenon, whatever it is, is not limited to a single part.

* Sketchup v17.2.25555
* Cura v3.0.3
* OctoPi/OctoPrint 1.2.7
* PrintrBot LC custom
* Grey Inland PLA+ @~180C, bed @~60C (my temps are higher than the software thinks they are, so I have to put the temp lower in the software)

You can see the parts in Sketchup:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FCSH7.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FCSH7.jpg)

The corner on the left was giving me no end of trouble! I left it with a messed up hole because I could more easily clean it up with a drill bit than spend another few hours futzing with that corner.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ay0V.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9ay0V.jpg)

This is in Cura, after I have sliced it. Looks fine to me! There is a bit of red in that problematic corner, but I only noticed that after the print came out weird.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RYPm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5RYPm.jpg)

This is the output of the printer. Notice how the edge near the GPIO pins is shorter than the rest, and how the hole is inverted into a protrusion. This is the opposite of what I want, and the opposite of what I see in the other softwares.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYrkP.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DYrkP.jpg)

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRpAo.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRpAo.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Looks like you are over extruding.

check out this visual guide for example (I like it a lot):

<http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide>

For the protruding thingy, it seems (as the other hole is filled up with over extruded filament, it seems) that it's the "hole" printed. For the rest of the "wall" where that hole should have been, it seems it was just not printed. What size is it (if too thin, the slicer might just discard it, doesn't seems like it but you didn't tell nozzle size etc).

I don't know, but I think you should start with calibrating your machine first so that you actually *can* print small holes like that.

For the missing wall, what does the slice result look like?
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: first issue
===========

bed inclination. it has to be heavy issue :)

if you have any other printouts then please reveal them so we could see if it's the problem

next issue
==========

inversion of hole into solid object

i would say it's caused by wrong calculation of [normal vector](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Normal_(geometry)) to some face(s)

algorithm uses normal to calculates what is "inside" and what is not

it's hard to say if it's an issue of

* object itself
* application in which you modify it (even if duplicating or joining with other objects)
* slicer engine

to fix the issue, you can try edit your object (recreate this hole)

but first - definitelly i'd align your bed properly ;)

**EDIT**

after closer look i bet it's the issue of bad object. it looks like pointed line is kinda remnant of some operations made on object in the past

in other words - it's possible place where normals are reverted and doesn't "create" inside but outside

all above this line is reverted. **part of body disappeared and part of hole appeared**

this is the issue for sure!

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QupM7.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QupM7.png)
[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTVh2.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZTVh2.png)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I use a Prusa i3, and this is ABS printed part with 225/90°C. Why did this happen?

[![First ABS print - image#1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQbFC.jpg "First ABS print - image#1")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQbFC.jpg "First ABS print - image#1")
[![First ABS print - image#2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gaXz.jpg "First ABS print - image#2")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1gaXz.jpg "First ABS print - image#2")
[![First ABS print - image#3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTvir.jpg "First ABS print - image#3")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UTvir.jpg "First ABS print - image#3")
[![First ABS print - image#4](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf8gr.jpg "First ABS print - image#4")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vf8gr.jpg "First ABS print - image#4")

I tried to print this part again with new settings on Slic3r (I used Cura for previous print), but I got the same result. I found that the problem is because the model starts to bend after about 1 cm height. Also the blue tape starts to separate from the bed.

I don't use the fan for printing part (although the MK8 extruder's fan works all the time), and the temperature for the new part was (225/85°C first layer and 220/80°C for other layers). Also I must say that the adhesion of the model sticks to the bed is very good and strong, but it is bent!

[![Second ABS print - image#1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzWW.jpg "Second ABS print - image#1")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyzWW.jpg "Second ABS print - image#1")
[![Second ABS print - image#2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWTjh.jpg "Second ABS print - image#1")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWTjh.jpg "Second ABS print - image#1")<issue_comment>username_1: My best results with ABS have been with a hot bed (100 degrees C), and using the "acetone/ABS slurry" to stick the print to the bed.

I was not able to get ABS to stick well enough to blue tape at low bed temperatures, and at high bed temperatures the blue tape would sometimes separate from the bed.

The ABS slurry is applied to the cold bed, and gives you an ABS film intimately attached to the bed. It will be a thick enough film to carry the color, so it is best to make the slurry with the same color as you will be printing with.
There is no absolute ration of acetone to ABS that should be used for the mixture. In service, the acetone evaporates. A thicker slurry will leave a thicker coating.

I use flux brushes (sometimes called acid brushes) to apply the slurry, although one can also use a watercolor brush, or just pour a small puddle on a bed if it is level enough to not run off the edge.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Multiple problems here. Let's try to isolate them.

* Blue tape. Good for PLA, not suitable for ABS. ABS works fine with kapton tape, glue stick, hair spray, ABS juice over glass, aluminum or PCB epoxy composite board.
* Always use at least brim feature to ensure good adhesion along the edges (your last photos have none). For parts with small hotbed contact area use raft.
* Hotbed temperature should be 100°C+, because at 80°C adhesion is weaker. If you can't raise hotbed temperature to 100°C, think about thermal insulation.
* Layers of plastic don't stick to each other. Either plastic comes from extruder being already cold (check that there are no draughts of cold air nearby), or you're printing too fast (50 mm/s should generally work, if not try 30 mm/s).
* No infill between walls. Either it is set to 0 or optimized out by some option.
* Round walls aren't round. Either printing speed problem, or your belts are loose.
* Underextrusion. Bottom of your first print looks like mesh rather than solid surface. Check that plastic flow is around 100%.

Also check that your thermoresistor measures the actual temperature of the extruder (i.e. is in direct contact with it). Otherwise you will get overheated plastic extrusion, which looks like your first photos.

Also, print a 1 cm cube first. Don't do anything complex, just cube.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Try putting your printer into a heated chamber, and when the print is finished, slowly decrease the temperature of the chamber. I would also recommend using putting something like buildtak or printbite onto your buildplate. If you are not able to do that I would recommend putting some purple gluestick onto the bed, or a few spritz of hairspray should do the trick.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I have just received a 3D printer for Christmas (Robo R2). I am confused by the sheer amount of settings that I can tweak and I'm hesitant to do so until I know more about them. I was wondering if anybody has any recommendations for literature on:

* 3D printing in general (geared towards beginners);
* Designing parts specifically.

Books are preferred but websites are acceptable as well.<issue_comment>username_1: Welcome to the fantastic, sometimes frustrating but most often glorious world of 3D printing David! :)

Your question is really very very broad, but here's my contribution to make your first steps a success. First of all: I don't have experience with the Robo R2, but judging from the specs available online, I would say that you got a username_1hine that take care of most of the troubles beginners encounter when starting out (e.g.: levelling the bed) and has a few features that allow you to print more reliably/with better quality (heated bed, enclosure, possibility for a second extruder).

Give a hug to whoever made the gift to you! ;)

I like to think to 3D printing as a process that involves 4 phases (well, normally several iteration of them as *prototyping* is a thing):

* Designing (creating the mesh, i.e. the shape of the object you want to print)
* Slicing (creating GCODE, i.e. the file with the step-by-step instructions for moving your printer nozzle in space, extruding the plastic, controlling temperatures and cooling, etc...)
* Printing (the actual process of having your printer running that GCODE)
* Post-processing (finishing the piece, by for example removing support material, sanding, vapor-smoothing the surface, painting, etc...)

Technology in the 3D printing world is moving so fast that printed information tends to get outdated quickly, and the Internet is often the best source of information. So in the following bits I will mention the the source of information that I use[d] for myself, of which many are online rather than in print.

**DESIGN**

Broadly speaking, there are two kind of designs one can do: **decorative** or **functional**. Decorative designs are those in which the final object will essentially sit still on a shelf or be handled very gently (e.g.: a model of the Tour Eiffel, a miniature for RPG gaming), functional designs are those in which the final part will have to bear a load or perform some sort of mechanical work (e.g.: a drone, a shelf bracket, a pipe adapter...).

Both designs need to take into consideration the physical limitations of FDM printers such as the fact that the nozzle is round and with a fixed diameter, or the fact that molten plastic needs to rest onto something, thus the need for support.

Additionally, functional design requires an understanding of the physical properties of 3D MFD printed parts (hint: they are anisotropic, so their properties differs along their axis). If you are interested in functional designing a book that I can highly recommend is [Functional Design for 3D Printing by <NAME>](https://www.amazon.co.uk/Functional-Design-3D-Printing-Designing/dp/0692883215/). It is concise, accessible and full of information you'll be using from your very first design.

In terms of tools, for decorative, organic forms, you will probably want to use a program like [Blender](https://www.blender.org/), that manipulate meshes directly, while for functional designs will probably turn to CAD software, like for examaple [FreeCAD](https://www.freecadweb.org/) that operate on a "model" and let you export the finished part as a mesh at the very end.

Both Blender and FreeCAD are free software (like in: "free speech") but commercial versions do exist as well (most notably from Autodesk).

Blender is professional grade software with a very steep learning curve and I would suggest to take an structured online course like [this one](https://www.udemy.com/blendertutorial/learn/v4/overview) about it, rather than trying to learn it the DIY way.

FreeCAD belongs to a category of CAD programmes that operate on a well defined, well understood, set of principles (so it works similarly to OnShape and Fusion360 for example) and it is much easier to learn. In my experience CAD modelling is best learnt by understanding the very basic, and then just researching further information as you go, according to the needs of your project as CAD design is full of small specific operations that is useful to know only if you actually need them (e.g.: how to draw a screw thread, or to perform a loft). I started out with [this series of video tutorials](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HEvhclR4-o&list=PL6fZ68Cq3L8k0JhxnIVjZQN26cn9idJrj) by the late <NAME> (a celebrated contributor to the FreeCAD community), but there are tons of other tutorial should you choose to go with a commercial product.

**SLICING**

Slicing is as much an art as it is science. While the actual work of generating the GCODE is automated and requires just the click of a button, there are a myriad of settings that are mutually interdependent in their effect. For example: filament temperature, movement speed, cooling fan, retraction and coasting all affect oozing, but each of them also affect other things (bridging, layer adhesion, curling, nominal overextrusion, etc...).

Also: settings differs for each filament material, each brand, and sometimes even different spools from the same material/brand. Moreover, you may wish to tune them depending to what you are printing (maybe you are printing a finely detailed miniature and want to go slower to reduce vibration, or maybe you are printing a torsion bar and want to increase the temperature for increasing layer adhesion, for example...).

IMO the best way to understand how settings affect your print is playing around with calibration towers ([example](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1956512)) and torture tests ([example](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1363023)).

Calibration towers work by printing the same thing on top of each other but changing at each repetition a specific setting (like filament temperature, or extrusion multiplier). You will then visually inspect the final piece and evaluate how the print quality changed relative to that parameter.

Torture tests work by putting in the same piece a number of features that are hard for the printer to print correctly (thin walls, bridges, overhangs, to name a few).

A specific model that is sort of gold standard as a basic test is the [3D benchy](http://www.3dbenchy.com/). The good thing about it is that it comes with a full website that also tell you how you can evaluate the print. However, the benchy - differently than torture tests - is not designed to let you discover the limits of your printer, it is more of a quality-control test. If you can print a 3D benchy, you should be good to go for printing "regular" objects.

Also, at least in the two most common free-as-in-freedom slicers ([Cura](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software) and [slic3r Prusa Edition](https://github.com/prusa3d/Slic3r/releases)) each setting comes with some explanatory text while hovering on it, that helps a lot understanding what that setting does).

**PRINTING**

How much you can affect the actual printing process depends from how "open source" is your printer, and if it uses standard components or not. Consumer-grade printers get often upgraded/modded to improve print quality or tweak them for a specific job/material. Typical upgrades are extruder upgrades, stepper motor upgrades, vibration dampeners, different sensors, etc...

Each printer is unique, but normally you can find abundant information wherever the community of owners of a specific model gathers.

I would also advise to subscribe to some good youtube channel about 3D printing like [Tom's](https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer) or [Makers Muse](https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse) or [Joel's](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_7aK9PpYTqt08ERh1MewlQ), and to visit sites like [All3dp](https://all3dp.com/) regularly. As I mentioned, 3D printing tech changes constantly, and it is good to keep tabs on new materials, new software, new components, etc...

**POST-PROCESSING**

This is entirely dependent from the material you used for the print, its size, and its intended use, but I wanted to mention this nonetheless as there are amazing things you can do with [acetone on ABS](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj53P2YzYGM), lot of [elbow grease on PLA](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vgynnYzo08) or the [use of an airbrush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj1kgFHo3sU)... so you know 3D printing does not end with the print! ;)

Hope this helps you at least a bit. Again: welcome to the the 3D printing world! :)
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have found that "Troubleshooting and Maintaining your 3d Printer" by <NAME> has a good overview of:

* 3d Printer Assembly and parts
* 3d Printer Calibration
* 3d Printer Software
* Filament materials
* 3d Printer Maintenance (both preventative and corrective)
* 3d Hardware Troubleshooting
* 3d Print Troubleshooting
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I specifically want to test

* calibration
* tolerances
* precision
* accuracy

I'm having trouble with Print in Place models and I'm trying to find out if there's something I can do to improve my print quality.

The printer I am using is a Kossel clone, specifically a FLSUN QQ and assume FDM printing.<issue_comment>username_1: The best place to start looking is to go to [Thingiverse](http://www.thingiverse.com) and search on '[benchmark](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=benchmark)'. There are a great many models there intended to test various aspects of printing. In fact you could search for example '[calibration benchmark](https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration%20benchmark)' or '[calibration test](http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=calibration%20test)' and get more specific examples.

Actually, [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/username_1/collections/benchmarks) is a collection I just made today of the benchmarks I thought most promising. Disclaimer: I haven't tried them yet!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a fairly open ended subject, but the different calibration/test models can be broken down into a few different groups. Although there are a few common 'standards', as soon as you get to looking at a specific parameter, you will need to look for something that is a good match for your problem (not everything on thingiverse is really 'useful), and work out how to use it for your adjustments. Ultimately, the specific model you're working on is the best test - and it may also be that this model is not optimal in some way.

Here is a print from my own test model which shows the slicer not handling my model very well, partly because the model doesn't respect the filament dimensions. It also shows how a variety of print details can be captured in a small (20 min) print.
[![Small Tower Tester by tsh2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXK9zm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xXK9zm.jpg)

Basic Calibration
-----------------

This is a step that you might be tempted to skip on a non-diy printer, since it mainly focuses on the construction. The [basic 20mm calibration cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) (just a square) can be used to test that your printer is dimensionally accurate, and is also one way to check your extruder steps/mm (extrusion is variable, x/y steps generally only change when the belt skips).
You can also use bigger shapes if you suspect that there are drive problems, and [bed leveling](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2664146) might come into this group too, where you could use a one or two layer print.

Test Parts
----------

These are small parts that might once have been considered hard to print, but now seem to be a standard reference for a 'good' print. Most people who have been printing for a while have a collection of [benchie](http://www.3dbenchy.com) and [marvin](https://www.3dhubs.com/hub-academy/your-first-order-marvin-test-print) prints. You might use these to quickly test a new filament, although the benchie is borderline large.

[![Marvin](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Q9H0m.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Q9H0m.jpg)
[![Benchie](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMa9wm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMa9wm.jpg)

Detail calibration
------------------

Depending what you want to focus on, there will be different things you can use. Temperature calibration towers, overhang and bridging tests, ripple tests (for acceleration), fan tests, etc. This is an area where finding a 'good' test part can be hard. You would want to make sure that the previous two classes of test show good all round performance (or have identified a specific problem) first, before trying this sort of test.

For the print-in-place example, you might need to check extrusion/ooze/coasting, as well as checking linearity and orthogonality (it's no use if a circular part turns out to be more like a diamond with rounded corners). You also need to make sure your first layer is good, without a rim or warping.

Torture tests
-------------

I put this in a group on it's own because it may not be as useful for tuning a printer as some of the others. This is a little bit more about showing off how good your printer is tuned - and is the origin of the benchie and marvin type models, just with the difficulty turned up a notch or two. Some print-in-place models might fit into this category.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: **Any print you make can be considered a test print!** But, specific test prints are easily found on the internet and lend themselves better for specific tasks. In order to improve your printer / print quality, you need to follow a meticulous series of tests and record the parameters you use to slice the model. Each test should be broken down into several print process parameters (and recorded) and tested for their effects (e.g. speed and temperature).

---

A general accepted strategy is to calibrate the extrusion process first and that look into the general accuracy.

Filament deposition calibration
-------------------------------

An important aspect of printing is deposition of just enough filament (if you deposit too much the lines become wider, and so are the dimensions). To calibrate the extruder deposition of filament you can easily heat up the hot end, mark the filament with respect to a certain reference point and extrude e.g. 100 mm. Now measure the filament mark again with respect to the reference point to verify you actually extruded that same demanded amount.

Accuracy
--------

For general accuracy printing of 20x20x20 mm cubes is usually fine. Note that the print accuracy is generally determined by the printer (construction) itself, but can be influenced by print speed. Large speeds in combination with a large mass of the printer head can lead to positioning inaccuracies (like overshoot). That said, you should also look into the printer itself. Does it have play? Are the belts tight enough, but not over-tightened? Is the bed skew, or are XYZ perpendicular?

[This cube](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) is frequently used to calibrate the dimensions:

[![20 mm XYZ test cube](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gw7Tm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9gw7Tm.jpg)

*Please do note that the poster of this picture probably produced a dimensional accurate print, but still faces under extrusion (as seen from the gaps between the lines)*

If dimensions seem to be off reasonably, e.g. more than 0.2 mm (depending on the printer construction) you could change the amount of steps per mm in the firmware. Do note that the steps per mm is mechanically determined by the belt and pulleys.

More tests?
-----------

Even more tests can done to make specific filament adjustments. E.g. "temperature towers" can be printed to test the optimal parameters for filament flow and / or bridging (printing in air between two parts), or overhang (unsupported parts of the print). But, these last tests are not specifically designed for the issues you mentioned.

Tolerance test
--------------

Once you have calibrated the printer to the ability of yourself and to the capacity of the printer itself you could try to print a dimensional printing [tolerance test](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318105). Such tests are usually constructed by cylinder shaped (or diabolic shaped) objects in a housing that is slightly larger that the shape.

[![Tolerance test](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RqTpm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6RqTpm.jpg)[![Diabolic shaped tolerance test part](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPTqdm.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPTqdm.jpg)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to resolve this for months and have tried almost everything, I guess.

I am using Marlin firmware on a custom extruder with a custom fabricated heating block in which heater and thermistor (Marlin Temp\_Sensor 11) are set up perpendicular to each other. Whenever I try to heat it up to 200 degree Celsius, it falls short and fails at around 140 and that too with a very low pace (especially between 100 to 140).

I have already tried PID tuning, ADC values calibration, etc. Also, I have tried varying the values of `Watch_Temp_Sensor` in `Configuration_Adv.h`. I don't know what's going wrong.

Can extruder coldend fan have an effect on the heating of thermal block? I have tried heating the hotend without cooling the coldend, although it takes around 10-12 minutes yet it works perfectly fine then and it reaches to the desired temperature.

The power supply is working fine

P.S. I am not using any kind of pre-built extruder like E3D etc.

This is the setup:

[![Photo of hotend](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xvI9.jpg "Photo of hotend")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5xvI9.jpg "Photo of hotend")

This is the thermistor setup:

[![Thermistor setup](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnbVn.jpg "Thermistor setup")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tnbVn.jpg "Thermistor setup")

This is a view of heater position:

[![Heater position](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vl3b0.jpg "Heater position")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vl3b0.jpg "Heater position")<issue_comment>username_1: There are many unknowns at this point, you need to work methodically through each stage. You probably also need some test equipment, at least a basic multimeter. Ideally a temperature probe too.

First, check that your power supply can drive the hot-end directly. You already know how long it takes to reach 120°C, so be sure to not let it heat too far beyond this time. This will bypass all of the control logic, and risks overheating your hotend/burning out the heater - but it should be OK if you limit to a few minutes.

Check the temperature reading, and cross check with some PLA or other low melting point filament to see if you actually reach ~180°C. Check the voltage as close to the heating cartridge as you have a connection point. It should be at least 11V (with a 12V PSU). My guess is that you have a bad connection somewhere...

If you observe the hotend getting hot enough to melt plastic, check the thermistor readings. You should see a fairly constant rate of heating well past 200°C. However, I expect this will work fine.

Finally, check the hotend mosfet drive and output as the hotend reaches the target temperature. It should be on, then switching on/off, then off as you pass the target.

If this all looks OK, repeat but with the board in-circuit and controlling the heater. It may be that the mosfet is damaged, or it is not being driven very well - but to progress past that point we need to see voltage readings at various points.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_1: Now that we can see the real problem, your heater cartridge doesn't have good thermal contact to the block, and the block does not have good contact to the nozzle.

Where is your heatbreak? You need to perform a basic analysis of the heat flow in your design. Anything that is expected to conduct needs to be clamped, and to have thermal paste. Any connection between hot and cold which is used for mechanical support needs to have minimal cross section, and maybe use materials with poor thermal conductivity.

Example
-------

Here is a simplified diagram, with some assumed thermal resistances. Note that the geometry is not representative since your nozzle is actually within the throat, not between the heater and the throat as I've shown.

[![Heat Flow](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtbEO.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtbEO.png)

Total thermal resistance is 7.5 °C/W. Maximum heat in is 40W, so the heater is at 320°C, and the nozzle can reach 300°C.

Replace the heater with a 20W element, and the nozzle drops to 170°C.

Keep the heater at 20W, to achieve 220° at the nozzle, the throat needs to provide at least 4.5°C/W thermal resistance.

Assuming you're using a 10 mm diameter aluminium bar as a heat break, it needs to be 7 cm long with a 20 W heater. If you use steel instead, the length can be reduced by a factor of about 3.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Is a home 3D printer capable of printing a good bicycle air pump?

I've searched the Internet and there is very limited info on it. Things need to be rigid and very minutious in the valve part of the pump. I could give an example of what I thought in the image [![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFuku.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cFuku.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: depends
=======

You certainly can print *parts* of **a** bicycle pump, for example, the outer case and maybe the inner piston, maybe even the housing for the connection valves.

However, you cant print the buffer spring or the valves itself. You will have trouble printing the adapters. And you will have to print in ABS to smooth the inside of your pump with acetone vapor, so you have a smooth surface that forms an air seal under operation.

It would be cheaper and more durable to just print just the fittings and use a PVC Pipe as the cylinder itself.

As in all things, if this is a **good** pump depends a lot on design and your machine.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It should be possible to print such a product. You should be printing this in a tough material at a fine layer resolution and probably need to machine the inside of the cylinder or use grease and use a rubber valve.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: So I know there have been several clicking Extruder threads but have not found any solutions to the one I am having.

Background:
I have a custom Prusa like 3d printer fitted with an MKS board (v1.5) and an MK3 Extruder.

The issue:
**While i can extrude fine when ordering some extrusion, as soon as i start to print an object the extruder just starts "clicking".**

What I have tried so far:

1. Changing motors: I have tried using a new motor which I know it
works and the problem persists.
2. I have adjusted the stepper driver voltages, and the problem
persists.
3. I have changed the PSU and the problem persists.
4. Changing the whole board: I have changed the whole board with a
brand new one and the problem persists.

I am out of options here. So now the only logical explanation is that the both boards (the old and new) have exactly the same problem, i.e. the extruder stepper driver is bad in some way. Yet again, it works fine when simply extruding...

Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: The Mystery of Makerbot-Wiki
----------------------------

According to the Wayback machine, the wiki.makerbot.com went offline on [31st December 2012](https://web.archive.org/web/20121126084944/http://wiki.makerbot.com:80/):

>
> Over the past three amazing years, MakerBot owners and enthusiasts around the world have shared knowledge with us and with each other. As we welcome thousands more MakerBot owners and users into the MakerBot family, we want to make sure that everyone always has the best information regarding our company and products, and that it's easily accessible.
>
>
> Here’s one thing we're doing to help: on December 31, as we close out the year, we will also turn off the lights at wiki.makerbot.com.
>
>
> The MakerBot wiki has served us well, but lately we've seen an increase in spam and a decline in community activity. Instead of continuing to maintain two separate sites, we're going to consolidate them.
>
>
> What that means is that, as of December 31st, the MakerBot wiki will no longer be available at this address. An archived version of the wiki as it stands today will be available at <http://makerbot.com/support/archive> and more former wiki content will be available at <http://makerbot.com/support>, which already hosts PDFs of some of the most useful Thing-O-Matic and Cupcake documentation. You may see some short periods of downtime as we finish moving this content.
>
>
> An archive of forum discussions will be available, but users seeking discussion with the incredibly knowledgable MakerBot community should head over to the [MakerBot Operators Google Group](https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/makerbot). Requests for help and questions about MakerBot products should, as always, be sent to mailto:<EMAIL>.
>
>
> Thanks for your contributions over the past few years to the MakerBot wiki. We hope you'll all continue to share your expertise with us and other MakerBot users for many years to come.
>
>
>

[Before that](https://web.archive.org/web/20121114075819/http://wiki.makerbot.com/), the makerbot wiki did tell that the Documentations had been moved:

>
> Note
>
>  This wiki is intended for historical MakerBot documentation and community-supported projects. The new home for MakerBot documentation is <http://www.makerbot.com/docs/>
>
>
>

---

JSON-RPC
--------

There is a late 2013/early 2014 [github](https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc) that seems to work on the JSON-RPC and which might help - and still showed [some activity](https://github.com/makerbot/jsonrpc/graphs/contributors) past the lockup of the wiki.makerbot.com. It is only very poorly documented. The earliest activity was in 2012 with the main bulk in 2013.

The JSON project predates the start of work on the [makerbot-gen5-api](https://github.com/gryphius/makerbot-gen5-api/graphs/contributors) in 2014. This might mean that it might be documented there to some degree, But it might also be present in the generation 4 API.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It took some digging, but I was able to start scripting a wrapper in C# for the RPC commands.

* [C# Wrapper](https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore#api) (MTConnect Implementation)
* Unofficial [JSON-RPC Reference](https://github.com/TrueAnalyticsSolutions/MakerBotAgentAdapterCore/wiki/JSON-RPC)

I still don't understand what every method does to the machine or necessarily what the results are, so a number of the methods are marked as obsolete until I can test them.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I changed the filament, and to adjust filament temperature, I printed a test model and it looked good:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rop.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/90rop.jpg)

But printing another part did not go so well:

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDVQa.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kDVQa.jpg)

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYSJy.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYSJy.jpg)

After the failed print I ran another test:
[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp0Pk.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vp0Pk.jpg)

Еverything is done with the same settings.
And I think the temperature and settings are okay.

Is it possible to have a missed step on the Z axis, and this has caused the crushing of the layers or bad filament quality.

Where does the problem come from?<issue_comment>username_1: Looking at the second photograph and the way that the filament switches abruptly from smooth to irregular deposition, I would say that you have a partially clogged nozzle.

Pre-heat the nozzle and extrude some filament. It should drop straight down from the nozzle. If the filament curls as it comes out of the nozzle, the nozzle is partially clogged. You may be able to clear the clog by doing what is called a "cold pull":

Pre-heat the nozzle so that it is possible to extrude filament. Then switch off the heater and allow the temperature to fall below the pre-heat temperature of the filament (140°C for PLA, say). Now disengage the extruder gears and gently withdraw the filament completely from the hot end. On removing the filament completely from the printer, you should find a "bullet" on the end of the filament in the shape of the melt chamber. Hopefully, the dirt that caused the clog will be embedded in the bullet.

In order to prevent dirt from entering the nozzle, it is a good idea to install a filament cleaner. This can be as simple as a piece of sponge containing a couple of drops of light machine oil, or you can make something a little more sophisticated. There are plenty of designs that you can download on Thingiverse.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It definitely looks like the temperature is too high

but it can also mean that

* the speed is too low and/or
* the cooling fan is not driven correctly and/or
* over extrusion could play a role here

this is the scenario with all these issues together

too high temperature melts too much filament which is put by too slow movements

;)

check the printing when your object changes from well printed to this ugly state
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: From third picture - moisture!

Is new filament cheap? I guess it was too long on stash and/or bad package.

Look for [Maker's Muse](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg)'s video on Youtube about this topic.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I'm still new to 3D printing and I want to print something. I expect that I'll mess it up since I find nothing to adjust it but it is now laying around for 4 months and I'm sick of it.

So my question is where do I find Windows software to print something and of course where do I get a 3D model?

I own a Geeetech i3 Pro W.<issue_comment>username_1: First; find a model!
--------------------

To print something you require a **model** (usually this is in STL format, look into websites called [Thingiverse](http://www.thingiverse.com) and [MyMiniFactory](https://www.myminifactory.com/) for examples). Once you have a model file, you need to make it readable for the printer firmware.

If you can't find suitable model, then you need to design a model yourself (or ask someone to do it for you) or adjust an existing model to suit your needs. "[Good (preferably free) Beginner Software for Part Creation?](/q/740/)" is a good place to start.

Second; use slicer software
---------------------------

For a printer to be able to print the model, the model needs to be sliced into layers. These layers need to be printed at specific speeds, temperatures, etc. Search online and look at the filament packaging (usually the ideal temperatures are on the packaging) to find the ideal temperature for your filament. If you are not using the right temperatures, your print will most likely fail. Programs that are able to slice models are called **slicers**. The most popular free (and Windows compatible) slicers are [Ultimaker Cura](https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software) and [Slic3r](https://slic3r.org) (or its [Prusa distribution](https://www.prusa3d.com/slic3r-prusa-edition/)).

The slicer produces a printer readable file called a G-code file (file filled with printer instructions for e.g. movement and heating). This G-code file can be sent to the printer using specific printer software (e.g. OctoPrint, Repetier-Host, etc.) but more common or simple is to put the G-code file on an SD card and print the file using the print menu on the printer LCD.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you're just starting out then Tinkercad (website) is a good place to start designing your own objects. Later you can get to grips with OpenScad for more complex shapes. Both are free.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I printed parts for a Harry Potter wand with HatchBox Wood PLA, now I want to apply stain. I intended to try MinWax PolyShades wood stain, then noticed Varathane water-based wood stain is available at my local Rona hardware store. This seems a "healthier" option, maybe not as fussy to apply as PolyShades, anyone had experience with this product?<issue_comment>username_1: Wood stains (as opposed to dyes, paints, etc.) work by having large particles that become lodged in the grain of the wood, yielding a result that varies in intensity with the grain of the wood and thereby brings out its beauty. It's unlikely that they will do what you want, or anything reasonable, on PLA that has wood particles mixed into it. You might be able to find some types of dyes that will work. I've used wood dyes on woods that don't take stain well and have had good results, and if the PLA+wood material consists of a significant amount of wood, it seems plausible that wood dyes might work well on it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I ended up using Saman brand water-based wood stain, also from Rona hardware (a brand of Lowe's Canada). The selection of colours for Saman stains was greater than the Varathane stains.

I applied a single coat of colour #117 "Chamois" to the stem portion of the wand, and two coats of colour #120 "Dark Walnut" to the handle. I did not apply a varnish or sealer. The results seem acceptable, given that I Am Not A Carpenter, and this is my first go at printing and finishing wood PLA! Overall, I'm quite happy with the result. I left the PLA mostly unsanded to take advantage of the layers' wood-grain appearance.

[![Close up of wand](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8OTj.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j8OTj.jpg)[![Another close up, showing the Dark Walnut stained handle at left, the Chamois stained stem at left, with a section of unstained wood PLA at the joint](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSl8B.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jSl8B.jpg)
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I have a [WhamBam build system](https://whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system) on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets slapped down for the print surface.

[![WhamBam build system](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg "WhamBam build system")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg "WhamBam build system")

I have been printing PLA on a cold PEI sheet from Vertex, using 4 binder clips to hold it in place vs peeling the backing off and sticking it down. The print job wants to keep heating the bed to 60 °C, I turn it down, a couple minutes into a job it cranks it back to 60 °C and I turn it down again. A few times I missed the second turn on, and the PEI has been kinda warped now (or maybe it's just the plastic over the sticky backing), and has also peeled off some surface chunks in the middle, so we've been trying to print around the damaged section. The warping has now made the PEI unusable, so I'm hoping the WhamBam arrives soon.

We've been printing for a couple of weeks now (I printed a chess set, largest has 4 cm diameter and is 10 cm tall, some pieces on blue tape, some on the PEI) and are starting to venture into our own designs.

Intended project is box tops & bottoms that are ~90 mm x 65 mm x different heights with openings. We tried one on blue tape (a bottom with no openings) and ended up chiseling it off the bed with a steel putty knife (I don't recall if heat was on or not). We tried a top with openings on the PEI, missed that the heat had turned back on, but between the bed not quite level (forgot to re-check it) and the PEI being warped we killed it after the openings were printed around. It was not going to be usable, but we did print enough to be able to confirm the opening spacings (needs work still) so it was not a total loss. Came off the PEI easily (<2 mm thick when we stopped), we managed to miss the damaged parts mostly.

So the question: when the WhamBam arrives, is it better to print PLA at 60 °C, or do I keep playing the game of turning it down (and saving the waiting time of it heating up)?<issue_comment>username_1: I print PLA on a PEI bed at 60°C. I have also printed PLA on an aluminum bed at 60°C with Elmer's Glue Stick for bonding, which worked better for me than PLA. I recently switched to Aqua Net Hairspray on the aluminum bed at 60°C, which also worked well.

I have found no reason to avoid bed heating with PLA.

If the object is stuck too tightly on the PEI bed, you could try adding hairspray. It acts as a glue, but also as a release agent, and, being soluble in water, you can help release the object with a few water drops.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Received and installed the WhamBam system, and it works great! Have been letting it heat to 60C, which I'm pretty sure is not making it all the way thru the magnet, flex steel plate, and the PEX surface, but parts are adhering great and pop right off the PEX just by the act of picking up the plate, even a large box bottom (~68mm x 95mm) came off so easily I thought it had lost adhesion - my wife printed several items earlier and they came off the same way. I am impressed with the system!

We had lost a blade off the hot end fan (and turns out it was 3 blades), initial prints had failed to adhere on the PEX, the PLA didn't appear to be extruding properly, and the fan irregularity was very irritating. Internet searches indicated the plastic melting temp was not accurate enough. Replaced the fan and every print since has been great.

EDIT 6/14/2019 Here is a youtube clip of a freshly printed door knob (screen door latch) coming off a 60C bed, no problem!

And a larger box, ~65 x 98mm, that popped right off.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: How can I print an embossed image in a concaved shape?

Like a big saucer. I will use this an a mold for a project.

So far I've found lots of software with huge spread of features. It's sort of overwhelming. There is lots of ways to create images into 3D printable objects but to add the extra step and concaving that image is harder to find out.

How would you do it? I'm open to suggestions.

I'm new to 3D printing and would really appreciate the help.<issue_comment>username_1: What you describe, sounds like you want to create a lithophane; a pattern etched or engraved on a thin translucent base material (in your case a bowl) that can only be seen clearly when backlit with a light source behind it. Apparently you want to use it for another purpose.

Special software and or scripts that transform the image to the base material exist. An example is e.g. [this sphere which becomes a globe when lit from the inside](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2770219). Recommending a tool for creating such bowl is a little [out of scope](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/357/are-shopping-questions-on-topic-for-the-site) as these types of questions become outdated very quickly as technology changes or tools cease to exist. With the provided information you should be able to find software that is able to provide what you want to do.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You may want to look up <https://3dp.rocks/lithophane/> it lets you do things like that
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: My recently installed BLTouch probe regularly fails to perform ABL properly. There seem to be 3-4 failure modes:

1. Probe manages some points but fails partway through, with a "probing failed" message on the LCD screen, rendering it necessary to power-cycle the printer
2. Probe deploys on some point, then stows itself immediately, and treats that point as being a centimeter or two about where it actually is.
3. Probe completes all 9 points, then heats the nozzle in the back corner and never moves. The progress bar on the LCD counts up and eventually it claims to have finished the print, but the steppers (including the extruder) never move.
4. Probe flashes red throughout the cycle, which I believe means it failed a self-test probably because the mainboard started trying to speak to it before it was initialized, but occasionally when this occurs, it still works as expected.

For avoidance of doubt - sometimes it actually does work, and I get beautiful prints that adhere well during printing but are easily removed afterwards. And I have never had any issues with the Z homing using the probe, only the auto mesh levelling.

My setup:

* Creality Ender 3
* v1.1.4 mainboard with non-silent steppers
* genuine BLTouch v3, with official Creality pin27 kit
* Marlin 1.1.9 bugfix firmware, downloaded as hex file
* single iteration of probing
* 9 point levelling mesh
* Ultimaker Cura slicer 4.2.0
* Start G-code heats bed, homes `G28`, performs ABL `G29`, then heats nozzle (I don't have the actual G-code on my now as I'm away from my slicing computer)

[Related question: [BL Touch Probing Fails Intermittently](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10345/bl-touch-probing-fails-intermittently) but answers do not apply as I am already using bugfix firmware and have checked all the cabling and connections]<issue_comment>username_1: It sounds like you have "Origin at center" checked in your slicer's printer definition. That is generally only used with delta printers. Most Cartesian printers have the origin at the front-left corner of the build plate. Uncheck "Origin at center" and re-slice.

Providing that you have set up your slicer with the build plate dimensions and origin correctly defined, your models will be printed where the slicer shows them in the preview. You can rearrange the models before you slice, of course.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: STL files contain an origin. However, this is totally ignored when generating G-code, the slicer chooses the origin based on settings.

G-code itself is a string of commands. One of these `G28` calls for the origin of the machine to be found by moving mechanically to this position. Usually, it is all formatted to take this or the power-up position as 0 and then moves relative to that. It always moves in reference to the last position, or this 0 (absolute mode).

.x3d is an XML type of file that describes a 3D model. It reformats G-code to be read by different types of machines. It too only moves with reference to the last position, taking the position on powerup as 0 to move against unless homed.

Convention
----------

The convention for CNC is, that the front-top-left corner of the workpiece is to be $\{0;0;0\}$ as the origin for the [right-hand-rule](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Right-hand_rule). CNC then usually operates in a purely positive XY area and only works in negative Z, which is fitting for cutting. It doesn't preclude negative areas as to achieve cuts, going into the negative room is sometimes mandatory.

Taking this convention to 3D printing puts the front-left(-bottom) corner of the build plate (volume) to be the origin, because of the right-hand rule: The coordinate room is then strictly positive in XYZ (right as X, back for Y, up for Z), all absolute, strictly positive coordinates within the positive build volume can be moved to. However, instead of allowing negative coordinates, 3D printing does not allow any coordinates outside of the build volume that is ranged from 0 to the maxima set in the firmware.

This convention fails for Delta printers, which pretty much extrapolate the heights of the individual steppers via trigonometric calculations from cylinder coordinates $\{ r ; \phi ; z\}$ - radius, an angle of 0° to 360° and the Z-coordinate. In this coordinate room, math gets much easier putting 0 into the center of the build plate, which is circular; The transformation to cartesian coordinates is $\{ r \cos(\phi) ; r\sin(\phi) ; z\}$; the inverse transformation from cartesian to cylinder coordinates is somewhat more complex and [uses case differentiation.](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polar_coordinate_system#Converting_between_polar_and_Cartesian_coordinates).

Error
-----

Let's say the build plate has dimensions $a$ and $b$ and the corner with the green clip is $\{0;0;0\}$. The item is sliced to the position $\{a/2 ; b/2\}$ of the bed. It appears at $\{a ; b/2\}$ and $\{a/2 ; b\}$ respectively. This hints that the center of the bed is somehow taken as one of the coordinates.

If the corner without the clip is assumed as $\{0;0;0\}$, then X should be to the right, Y to the front following the right-hand-rule. To see if the coordinates might be skewed, the following command snippet would be useful. Please execute them one by one.

```
G28 ; home
G1 Z5 ; lift off the bed 5 mm to prevent accidental collisions
G1 X50 F500 ; move 50 mm to positive X - in case of back-right corner home this is to the LEFT
G1 Y50 F500 ; move to what ends up 50 50 5 - in case of back-right corner home this is to the FRONT

```

### Fixing

The problem is *probably not* the slicer but most likely the firmware defining either the movement axis or the home wrong (either the wrong corner is chosen or the movement axis are defined incorrectly) on the printer. It seems to be totally messed up and should be reflashed with a fresh copy.

It would be a good chance to learn by taking a Blanco variant of marlin and adjusting it to the own printer by chucking in the dimensions into `configuration.h` and starting from there.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: First of all, the firmware determines where your origin of the printer is. This implies that you need to properly set bed dimensions and offset values from the end stop switches in the firmware (usually not necessary out-of-the-box, but important when a newer or different firmware version is uploaded). These offsets determine where the origin of the bed plate is located. For Marlin firmware it is very common to have the origin specified at the front left corner (when facing the printer). From the [configuration of Marlin](https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L765) we find that by definition the origin is in the front-left corner (note that this can be rotated 180 degrees in certain printers, so the aft-right):

```

 *      +-- BACK ---+
 *      |           |
 *    L |    (+) P  | R
 *    E |           | I
 *    F | (-) N (+) | G
 *    T |           | H
 *      |    (-)    | T
 *      |           |
 *      O-- FRONT --+
 *    (0,0)

```

**How do I find the physical origin of the printer?**

This can be tested by instructing the head/nozzle to go to e.g. (0, 0, 15) using a [terminal/console](/q/10573) or a simple G-code file with a move to that coordinate that you print from SD card (e.g. `G1 X0 Y0 Z15 F500`); *note a Z of 15 is chosen for safety!*. When this is performed, the nozzle should be at the (elevated, so X, Y) origin as defined by your firmware. Usually this is at the left front corner of your build plate (there may be clips there, so therefore the elevated value), but this may be different depending on the firmware settings or firmware brand.

Next step is to configure the slicer as such that this coincides with the actual origin. Incorrect slicer settings can cause the slicer to assume the origin is at a different position than your actual position. In Ultimaker Cura, the "Origin at center" is notoriously known for this when the physical origin is not in the center, but in a corner.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: So it turns out there are elements from each of the previous answers that make sense here, but its not a clear picture. I've spent a whole lot of time trying to make sense of this. I also upgraded my firmware to [Sailfish.](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:32084)

For the MakerBot Replicator (or FastForge Creator) family of 3d printers, the origin of the build plate is NOT at any of the corners, its right in the center of the build plate. Reference [here.](https://www.sailfishfirmware.com/doc/parameters-home-offsets.html#x20-630004.1)

>
> 4.1 Home Offsets:
>
>  By convention, **the center of the build platform** is assumed to be the point (0,0,0) in XYZ space. The X, Y, and Z **home offsets** tell the printer the location of the X, Y, and Z **endstops** in relation to the build platform’s center.
>
>
>

Looks like this:

[![Center of build plate is origin](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c2YlJ.png)

And it would appear that most other 3D printers are not using this convention. Sigh. From my testing, the main control of print location is within the G-Code generated by the slicer. The tool I was using, Slic3r does give one a chance to correct that
adjustment. You have to go to top menu `Settings --> Printer Settings --> Size and Coordinates (Bed Shape) --> Set` to get a nice popup visual tool. See below.

Unfortunately the default setting is accurate for the overall bed size, but is a fail for the origin location on the bed. The default origin is set at 0,0, in the corner. Ouch. Big ouch. The origin needs to be located right in the center of the build plate (to be consistent with the firmware controlling the print for this family of printers). It **should** look like this:

[![print bed origin setup](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXV61.png)

Note, when you tell the printer to go to 'home' it doesn't go to origin (0,0,0) it goes to the endstops.

```
 G68 X0 Y0 F500 ; Perform Homing Routine

```

So as long as you understand the quirks of these printers things will work out. You have to ensure offsets are set accurately in firmware config files. (Replicator / Sailfish) And you have to indicate the correct center location to the slicer program. I will say the advice given here was of some help in understanding this. Many thanks. I'm posting here in case others using the Replicator or FastForge Creator series of printers is having troubles centering their prints on the build plate.

Additional info for anybody using a MakerBot Replicator or Flashforge Creator series printer with Slic3r. I wanted to add my custom G-code stuff. The default Slic3r stuff definitely did not work.

Printer Settings --> Custom G-Code --> Start G-Code

```
M103 ; Turn all extruders off, Extruder Retraction
G21 ; set units to mm
G90 ; Use absolute coordinates
(**** begin homing ****)
G162 X Y F2500 ; home XY axes to maximum stops
G161 Z F1100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop
G92 Z-5 ; Set Position Z =-5mm
G1 Z0.0 ; move Z to "0"
G161 Z F100 ; home Z axis to minimum stop slowly
M132 X Y Z A B ; Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis
               ; Loads the axis offset of the current home position from the EEPROM and waits for the buffer to empty.
G90 ; Use absolute coordinates
G1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3300.0 ; move to waiting position near center of build plate

```

Printer Settings --> Custom G-Code --> End G-Code

```
M109 S0 T0 ; Cool down the build platform
M104 S0 T0 ; Cool down the Right Extruder
M104 S0 T1 ; Cool down the Left Extruder
M73 P100 ; End  build progress
G0 Z150 ; Send Z axis to bottom of machine
M18 ; Disable steppers
G162 X Y F2500 ; Home XY endstops
M18 ; Disable stepper motors
M70 P30 ; We <3 Making Things! Yipee, you made it...
; display message above for 30 seconds
M72 P1 ; Play Ta-Da song

```

One other thing I do with Slic3r. I print a single loop of print on the periphery of a phantom skirt. I do this as a printer head clean extrude exercise.

Print Settings --> Skirt and Brim --> Skirt --> Loops (minimum): 1, Distance from object: 6mm, Skirt height: 1 This works well. I do this in lieu of the G-code startup used in ReplicatorG software (which went to the lower left hand corner, and did this odd 4mm extrude exercise, with odd timing...) The skirt thing works just fine.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with [this](https://www.amazon.ca/Ewigkeit-Extruder-Printer-Assembled-Aluminum/dp/B07Q493RYW/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?keywords=hot%20end&qid=1574768751&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFYVDRSMjVZRDU3QkMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODExMTRZSzAwSjdZQzJJTzkmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDMxMzczNDNZWjNVUTRNNUU0MSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=). After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185 °C for the hot end and bed are both at room temperature. It also gives the "Heating Failed" error message. Printer halted when I tried to heat it.

Things I've tried:

1. Checked the wiring, the thermistors are reading about 110k and 10k at end of the wires.
2. Tried updating the firmware with a few different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100 °C)
3. Tried with old thermistor and reading stayed at 135/185 °C.

I'm suspecting something wrong with the motherboard but was hoping I could figure out what's wrong before going ahead and buying a new board. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.

In troubleshooting the issue, I tried disconnecting one/both of the thermistors at a time and the reading stayed unchanged. Now thinking I might've somehow broken the board when I was disassembling it.

Upon receiving a new motherboard, that fixed the bed temperature reading. The hot end is now reading -14 °C with the thermistor plugged/unplugged. Took the resistances on the old and new hot end thermistors and couldn't get reading from either. So turned out both the stock motherboard and my hot end thermistors were not working. Ordered new thermistors and that should fix the problem.<issue_comment>username_1: I got my printer fixed and am posting steps I took for people with similar problems in the future.

**Initial problem:**

After I replaced my entire heating unit and reconnected the wires, my printer started to read about 135/185 °C for the nozzle and bed at room temperature. It gives the "Heating failed, printer halted, please reset" error when I tried to heat the hot end and bed.

**Troubleshooting steps:**

1. Checked the resistance of the thermistors. Both the hot end and bed were about 100k.
2. Reflashed Marlin with different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100 °C). All the other settings were giving very high readings at room temperature.
3. Replaced the mainboard. This fixed the bed reading but hot end was still not working. Checked the hot end thermistor again at this point and couldn't get any values, which suggests the thermistor wire was broken somewhere.
4. Replaced the hot end thermistor and that fixed all the issues.

So what I think happened was that I messed up the board when I was reconnecting the heating unit. Then at some point after I first measured the thermistor resistance, the hot end thermistor broke. Replaced the thermistor and that solved the issue.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: For future readers,

On a second-hand 3D printer with unknown firmware, I compiled the Marlin 2.1.1 firmware for the Creality 4.2.7 board with the default configurations for the `BOARD_CREALITY_V427` board, and at room temperature, the hotend reads about 121 °C.

I then measured the hotend thermistor by disconnecting the JST cable and got 9.1 kΩ with the room temperature of about 30 °C. This tells me the thermistor is a 10 kΩ NTC type.

The default configuration for Marlin is 100 kΩ NTC.

So, if you have a 10 kΩ hotend thermistor, either [recompile](https://ericdraken.com/compile-marlin-firmware/) the Marlin firmware for a 10 kΩ NTC thermistor (more trouble than it is worth if you do not know the temperature curve data), or get a new thermistor specifically listed in `Configuration.h`, for example:

```
 *  Analog Thermistors - 4.7 kΩ pullup - Normal
 *  -------
 *     1 : 100 kΩ  EPCOS - Best choice for EPCOS thermistors
 *   331 : 100 kΩ  Same as #1, but 3.3V scaled for MEGA
 *   332 : 100 kΩ  Same as #1, but 3.3V scaled for DUE
 *     2 : 200 kΩ  ATC Semitec 204GT-2
 *   202 : 200 kΩ  Copymaster 3D
 *     3 : ??? Ω   Mendel-parts thermistor
 *     4 : 10 kΩ   Generic Thermistor !! DO NOT use for a hotend - it gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
 *     5 : 100 kΩ  ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4-R025H42G - Used in ParCan, J-Head, and E3D, SliceEngineering 300 °C
 *   501 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar - Tronxy X3A
 *   502 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar - used by hot bed in Zonestar Průša P802M
 *   503 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar (Z8XM2) Heated Bed thermistor
 *   504 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar P802QR2 (Part# QWG-104F-B3950) Hotend Thermistor
 *   505 : 100 kΩ  Zonestar P802QR2 (Part# QWG-104F-3950) Bed Thermistor
...

```
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I´ve tried tunning printer settings with different Nozzle(190-210 ºC)/ Bed(0-60 ºC) Temperatures, Fan Speeds (0-100 %), Cura and Slicer adjustemens but nothing worked. I still get the same bubbles in the first 3 mm of every print.
I also tried a glass bed and the magnetic bed that comes with Ender 3 pro and the result is still the same.
The last thing I tried was moving the 0 position of the Z axis 10 mm up, but it didn´work.

What else could I try? Any idea of which could be the issue. Thanks in advance.

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpCwy.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpCwy.jpg)

[![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q32Pv.jpg)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q32Pv.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: It seems like your bed might be too close to the nozzle, hence the large elephants foot (bulge on the first layer). You can try using babystep Z to increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed and see how that works out. I think you might need to reduce the flow multiplier (extrusion multiplier) a little too.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: [This answer](/a/13458) hints to the correct diagnosis but doesn't explain how to fix this in Cura or any other solution other than babysteps. You don't want to adjust babysteps at every print...

Basically, your nozzle is too close to the bed (from comment 0.1 mm to be exact). To increase the distance between the nozzle and the bed you can:

* level with a little thicker paper,
* move the bed down on all corners,
* move the Z endstop up,
* redefine the Z=0 in your start code,

`G1 Z0.1 ; Move to 0.1 mm height`

`G92 Z0 ; Redefine zero height`
* install Cura plugin "Z Offset Setting" from fieldOfView (through the Cura Marketplace) and define a `Z Offset` of 0.1 mm, and/or
* increase the first layer height a little.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I'm printing 6 separate parts in one go, after 4 hours of printing one part failed, but the other 5 are printing nicely.

Is there a way to prevent the print from printing the failed part and continue printing the other 5 parts.

I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printer.<issue_comment>username_1: No, once you sliced the 6 parts on the build plate in your slicer, the G-code is fixed and the printer will print as the sliced instructions. During printing it cannot skip the code of a part that failed along the way; there is no way to interfere with the printing other than stopping the print. For that reason, many people don't pack the build plate too full, the more parts, the higher the chance it fails. You could print the part one after each other. Packing the plate with multiple parts is usually not faster than printing one at a time (if it fails you have nothing, otherwise a single failed print).

Depending on the size of the parts you can also tell the printer to print each part on the plate one after another in a single job; note that the printhead dimensions limit this. If one fails you stop the job, but the already printed parts are saved. You can then commence a new print of cut the G-code and reprint the shortened file.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you use the [OctoPrint](https://octoprint.org/) print manager, you can exclude regions to be printed using the [Exclude Region](https://plugins.octoprint.org/plugins/excluderegion/) plugin. The description states that it can be used to rescue partially-failed prints:

>
> The intent of this plugin is to provide a means to salvage multi-part prints where one (or more) of the parts has broken loose from the build plate or has otherwise become a worthless piece of failure. Instead of cancelling an entire job when only a portion is messed up, use this plugin to instruct OctoPrint to ignore any gcode commands executed within the area around the failure.
>
>
>

Other print managers may provide similar facilities.

I'm not sure if it will enable you to rescue your current print job.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Mick is right that you can do this with OctoPrint and maybe other print managers, and username_1 is right that there's no way to get the printer to stop printing the no-longer-wanted part when printing without a print manager (since it doesn't know about objects). However there is a way to recover and keep the non-failed parts if you're willing to waste material printing the rest of the failed part. It involved having a recovery tool built in advance, though.

Basically, you need an adjustable-height platform you can temporarily glue to the bed where the failed part would have been, small enough not to interfere with other parts but large enough to cover at least most of the area the failed part should have been in. The surface of the platform needs to be something your material will adhere to, ideally the same material you're printing with.

With the print paused and the head parked to the side, glue the platform to the bed and adjust its height using the depth-measurement function of a caliper to match the current layer height. Alternatively, you could use a straight-edge resting on two adjacent printed parts to match the layer height, but that risks dislodging them.

After it's attached and adjusted properly, resume printing.

I have not tested this with tall parts, but I have successfully made such "platforms" with layers of blue tape for small parts, and see no reason the concept should not scale to arbitrary height as long as you can get sufficient adhesion and match the layer height sufficiently well. Designing a sufficiently adjustable and reusable one (with adjustment mechanism that doesn't interfere above the desired height) would be an interesting project.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I am new to 3D printing and just purchased an Ender 3 V2 about two weeks ago. Since I've got it, I've been having trouble leveling the bed. I've tried watching videos, but they don't say how much friction on the paper is good or bad. I have even tried foil, playing cards, and a business card but still can't tell if it's good enough or not. Then when I would try printing calibration squares and adjust as it prints, but when it prints all looks good when printing the outside ring, but when it gets to the square parts there are bumps on the print from the nozzle being too close. Also when I seem to have corner perfect, when it gets to the center it's too close to the nozzle and doesn't even print. I'm using the stock glass bed so I'm not sure if that could be the issue. This is getting frustrating as I really want to start printing. And I want to save money for other parts and try avoiding purchasing a BL Touch if I don't need to. Am I doing something wrong? How can I get this resolved?

Forgot to mention, I upgraded the springs to these yellow ones on Amazon.<issue_comment>username_1: Don't worry too much about it. If you print with a first layer height of 0.3mm, bed levelling only needs to be approximate. If that doesn't work, and you cannot get good bed adhesion, try printing onto blue painter's tape (ScotchBlue). This makes a very forgiving build surface. You will need to clean it well with isopropyl alcohol (or acetone), since it is coated with a wax-based release agent that may prevent the filament from sticking. Once you have got used to printing, you can then refine your bed-levelling techniques.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: First, make sure the slate of glass is straight, this can be checked with e.g. a metal ruler on its side against the glass surface. If the glass isn't straight (which should be per the production process of glass, but there have been reported bad glass beds) you never get a perfect level over the whole bed. Also make sure the glass sits on a clean heated bed plate (no debris between the heater and the glass).

Second, level the bed, start with powering the printer. You need to sequentially do the following as adjusting the one corner (screw), affects the other corners (continue this until the bed is level and the one corner doesn't affect the other corners anymore):

* Home the machine,
* heat up the bed and nozzle to e.g. PLA printing temperatures,
* move the nozzle close to a corner (a different one than the previous corner),
* put a piece of plain printing paper on the bed,
* lower the nozzle to Z=0,
* adjust the screw in that corner until the piece of paper can be dragged under the nozzle with a slight resistance,
* repeat by starting with homing the printer.

After several rounds of leveling and having a level/straight bed to begin with, you should have a leveled bed that has been leveled against the printers' X-axis.

Now, when printing something it should be level, the only thing that might not be correct is the distance between the nozzle and the bed. E.g. some users prefer a larger distance between bed and nozzle when printing PETG [(not my personal experience, but a generally accepted truth)](/a/11177/). This distance can be tuned without having to re-level your bed; you could if you want to use a thicker or thinner paper, but you can easily change the Z=0 by [redefining the Z=0 level](/a/4746/) at e.g. 0.10 mm height if the nozzle to close. Some slicers even allow you to add an offset (e.g. the ["Z Offset Setting" plugin in Ultimaker Cura](/a/5939/) from developer "FieldOfView").

When you have dialed in the distance also correctly, you should get perfect prints.

Do note that a common issue with these over-constraint "cantilever" printer designs is that by powering a single side, the opposite needs to follow exactly, that is a challenge with that many parts. My preference is using dual lead screws, preferably driven by a timing belt for Prusa type printers.

Addressing the BLTouch part in your question; before you wander in the world of automatic bed leveling (AB) you should first master getting a level bed, or fix the X-axis rollers on Z beams. For ABL you also need to level your bed first else you get non-square prints. The roller solution is one of the major drawbacks of these printers, you need to make sure the X-axis (aluminum extrusion bar) stays level (or better trammed) in relation to the bed level, loose rollers should be properly tensioned.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you find the bed on an Ender 3 doesn't seem to "take" a level - in other words, if you keep trying to level it and things seem right, but then it's obviously wrong when you actually start printing, and checking the leveling doesn't seem to match what you set before - the problem is most likely in the Z axis mechanics. The Z assembly (including the X axis gantry) is highly *overconstrained*, between the 6 wheels, the lead screw nut, and the 4 screws attaching the gantry to the Z carriages. When it's not functioning properly, whether from fighting constraints, overtightening, undertightening, etc. you can end up with really bad reproducability\* of position in the Z axis, so that homing and moving to a particular Z coordinate gives different results each time you repeat, due to which components bind and which ones give.

If this is your problem, I don't have a good system for solving it. I've fought with it on and off over 2 years of owning one of these machines. At least you should check that the 2 screws holding the left side of the gantry to the Z carriage are very tight (note: they're hidden and inaccessible without taking off the top bar and raising the assembly off the Z extrusions) and that the gantry is mounted level to the carriage bracket, since any play here will ruin everything. One easy thing you can try to confirm whether you have leveling reproducability problems from Z axis problems is disconnecting the right side carriage entirely and tying it off at the top so it doesn't interfere; you can do this without disassembling anything else. This lets you operate the Ender 3 "as an Ender 2", i.e. with a cantilever setup. It's less rigid and probably not a good choice overall, but if it solves your problem then your problem is almost surely something in the overconstrained Z system and now you know where to look.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Step 1: stop using paper and get some feeler gauges. The gauge should be able to just barely pass under the HEATED nozzle.

Step 2: What are you using for bed adhesion? I use Elmer's white glue. After you think you've trammed (aka levelled) the bed, apply a generous layer of the glue in a coat on the bed. Let it dry.

Step 3: Verify bed level with a large square print that will cause the head to move to the outermost parts of the bed. Stop the print after a few outlines. Try to remove the print. If some areas are easier to remove than others, apply another coat of Elmer's glue to those areas.

Note: Do not hold down all four (4) corners of the glass bed. The aluminium plate is not going to be flatter than the glass. Only attach the glass to the bed on one side of the bed. I use the side that is furthest from the nozzle.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: We're thinking of buying a PETG-powered printer. When researching printers available on the market, there are machines with a 100 microns. I was wondering if there are machines with a 50 microns or close to 50 micros? Otherwise, why not?<issue_comment>username_1: The Z axis moves between each layer so you are indeed printing in the 3rd dimension. There are some techniques that move all three axis at the same time.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Frame challenge: is it just 1D printing? Each G1 command moves linearly in a single one dimensional affine subspace of the build volume.

What makes 3D printing 3D is that the resulting object produced is three dimensional. There are indeed a lot of advances to be made in FDM printing by not working only within constant-Z cross sections at a time, but these are matters of surface quality/accuracy and the classes of geometry that are printable, not efficiency.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: >
> I was wondering the other day why don't all three motors move at the same time?
>
>
>

That is perfectly possible for most printers (with limitations, "3D Printing" with all steppers being used is called "non-planar" printing), but there are some major cons you need to deal with. First, there are not that many software suites that slice objects perfectly well like the "normal" per "fixed/variable layer height" slicing as the slicers are under developed. Second, it requires a specific tall and slender nozzle/print head, else the height of printing is very limited. Last, besides generally not being useful for rectangular prints (except for 90° overhanging structures1)), this method is only/best suitable for curved objects as the top layer will follow the contours of the object.

>
> It makes sense if a 3D printer really does print with all three motors moving.
>
>
>

No, it does not make sense, the essentials of 3D printing it that it produces a 3D object, not that all stepper motors should be running simultaneously.

>
> Won't it also be more efficient if they do 3D print in all axes?
>
>
>

Not necessarily, there are limitations to non-planar printing like geometry and print quality, but, you could (in some cases) print with less support material.

---

1) : From [<NAME>, published March 3, 2021, https://xyzdims.com](https://xyzdims.com/2021/03/03/3d-printing-90-overhangs-without-support-structure-with-non-planar-slicing-on-3-axis-printer/):
[![Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaJm0.png "Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eaJm0.png "Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are tilted sliced")
[![Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Liiiw.png "Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced")](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Liiiw.png "Non-planar slicing for printing 90° overhangs are conically sliced")

*Note that these are **demonstration** pieces, normally you would rotate the print for 90° and print it sliced normal (planar).*
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I have recently started printing with Polymaker's PolyMax PETG on my Ender 3 v2. I have not been able to get the layer adhesion anywhere near as strong as it should be. I would guess it is around 20-25 % of the strength in the XY direction. The parts snap easily along the layer lines under loads that PLA and nylon hold up to just fine.

Print settings:

* 0.15 mm layers @ 35-20 mm/s
* Hotend temp 245 °C
* 4 mm retraction @ 40 mm/s
* combing on
* jerk control on
* no cooling

I made sure to use a nickel-plated brass 0.4 mm nozzle. I have calibrated my E-steps and tried printing in an enclosure, but nothing seems to help with layer adhesion. I have made sure there is no debris getting on the filament as it comes out of the drybox and even tried taping around the heater block so there is absolutely no part cooling.

Any ideas as to what I could be doing wrong?<issue_comment>username_1: I had this problem with my Ender 3 until I changed to a different extruder and now PETG never has adhesion problems. Even 100 % fan is fine at 245 °C. I think the stock hobbed gear just slips on PETG really badly, giving underextrusion. Go slow, increase the flow to compensate, and possibly increase temperature slightly more. Or buy a decent extruder.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I got a roll of Hatchbox PETG and the prints are fantastic. Small test prints don't break along the layers even at higher fan speeds. The problem was the Polymax PETG. I took a look at the TDS for it and the impact strength on standing samples was only 29% of the standing ones. I believe the Polymax PETG just has inherent layer adhesion problems.

---

*Please note that Polymax PETG isn't PETG, it's PCTG. I may try doing some firmware changes and printing it at 270 °C later on.*
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The layer adhesion with Polymax PETG at 260 °C was great so I didn't go any higher.
Upvotes: 0