<issue_start>username_0: I was given a late 2006 iMac with the hard drives erased and no OS loaded. The iMac boots to flashing folder. I purchased a Mac OS Tiger Install DVD but it is not bootable. I also have a Mac OS Leopard Drop-in DVD that will boot to the installation menu but will not install because 10.4 is not found on the HD.

I have a MacBook Pro with Yosemite loaded and purchased a Thunderbolt to Firewire adapter and Firewire 800 to 400 cable to connect to the iMac. I put the iMac in Target Disk Mode and partitioned the HD into two partitions and copied the Mac OS Tiger install DVD to partition 1. On the MBP in Finder I can see on the iMac the Tiger install DVD loaded onto the partition 1 but in Finder the Install Mac OS has a slash through it. When I double click the Install Mac OS icon I get a pop-up when on the MBP saying Power PC Applications are not supported so I cannot run the Install MAC OS.

Is there some other way to get Mac OS Tiger installed on the iMac since the MBP cannot run the Install Mac OS on the iMac?<issue_comment>username_1: If you Tiger DVD is not bootable it might as well be PowerPC one.

If your iMac is Late 2006 it will support Mac OS X 10.7 as latest.
You can [buy it from Apple for 20$](http://store.apple.com/us/product/D6106Z/A/os-x-lion). System requirements for OS X 10.7 is at least 2GB RAM though. So you might check first if you have enough. [These are guides on how to get to the memory](https://www.ifixit.com/Device/iMac_Intel).

Then you will need USB pen drive and [Lion Disk Maker](http://liondiskmaker.com) to make it bootable out of bought file.

The mac will accept 2 or 3GB of DDR2-667 SODIMM RAM total(depending on exact model).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: 2006 is the year when Apple switched from PowerPC CPUs to Intel CPUs, so you've probably got a PowerPC MacOSX Tiger Installer. (which cannot run on Intel MBPs)

If you cannot boot the installer disc from iMac, then your iMac is probably also Intel. You may be in luck getting a OSX 10.6 or 10.7 running on it depending on it's hardware capability, and you don't have to worry about the architecture because all post-10.6 OSXs are Intel.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: `Command`-``` switches between windows of the active app, but it doesn't work if the windows are full-screen.

According to [this question](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/154673/cmd-breaks-with-dual-monitors-and-full-screen-mode?s=4487c77024f94723b8f3774ca0a99a63), this was added in Yosemite if the windows are on separate monitors. Great!

Is there any keyboard shortcut that switches between full-screen windows on a single monitor?<issue_comment>username_1: I have outlined below what you should do. In short, ***yes*** it is possible, because I use it everyday

1. Go to System Preferences → Keyboard → 'Shortcuts' tab.
2. Click on the 'Mission Control' option in the left sidebar.
3. Now on the right sidebar you will see a Mission Control heading with a disclosure triangle next to it. Click on the triangle to show additional options.
4. You will see predefined options for you to select from; however, the keyboard shortcuts can be edited as necessary. I have mine set to `Command`-`→` to switch between spaces.

Visual aid:
![Screenshot of Keyboard Shortcuts preferences with steps labeled](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NaoPu.png)

**If this doesn't work for you, it's because you don't have your displays segregated.** If you're running more than one monitor:

* Go to System Settings > Mission Control and check 'Displays have separate Spaces'.
* You will have to log out and log back in for it to take effect.

Additionally, for further desktop organization you can set your apps to only appear on a certain window or space, so that way that application only populates in the space you designate. You can do this by going to System Preferences → Mission Control and check "Group windows by application" so there isn't cluttering of applications.

**NOTE**

This is not OS specific (works with Mavericks or Yosemite) and is not prejudiced to full screen apps. In other words, since you're switching spaces it doesn't matter what's in the space or how it's displayed; it will switch regardless. Lastly, it functions regardless of your screen output, setup, or format. I have three monitors and it only affects the active display.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To summarize the set of keyboard shortcuts with the addition of @username_1's input:

* If I have two windows from *different* apps I can switch with `⌘ Command`-`Tab`.
* If I have two windows from *the same* app I can switch with `⌘ Command`-```.
* If I have two *full-screen windows* from the same app then `⌘ Command`-``` doesn’t work, but I can switch with `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→` (or `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→`; I chose `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→` to
avoid conflict with browser back/forward shortcuts).
* If I have two full-screen windows from the same app *on different
monitors* then `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→` doesn’t work but `⌘ Command`-``` does.
* If I have two full-screen windows from the same app on different
monitors *and the target window is currently not in front* then `⌘ Command`-``` and `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→` both fail to work. I have to `⌘ Command`-`Tab` to another app that is on the target monitor, then `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→` to the target window. *Correction*: `⌃ Ctrl`-`←` or `→` scrolls through spaces on the ***original*** monitor, not the target monitor, so there's actually no way to do this that I know of.

Aside: if I enable the keyboard shortcuts for “Switch to Desktop 1” and “Switch to Desktop 2” and use two monitors, the shortcuts won’t work if the specified desktop is not assigned to the current monitor.

I've entered a usability bug with Apple, number 19363102.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I am able to rearrange the dock icons for a period of time after each restart, though I have not been able to determine the length of time. Then I am not able to rearrange the dock icons again.

I have tried the solutions found here: [Can't rearrange Dock icons](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/166999/cant-rearrange-dock-icons)

The `killall Dock` command did not do anything.

Deleting the `com.apple.dock.plist` file only seemed to work due to the restart because after a while the issue came back.

Is there a way to fix this issue so that I do not have to restart every time I want to rearrange icons?<issue_comment>username_1: Is it possible you're unwittingly holding down the command key while dragging. The command key temporarily "locks" the Dock, so that drags to/from the Dock do not affect it. This is new in Yosemite. The purpose is two-fold:

* When dragging a document *to* the Dock, it prevents icons already present from "dancing away" from the one you're dragging, making it easier to drop a document onto an app in the Dock.
* When dragging a document *from* the Dock, it lets the Dock know you intend to drop it somewhere (such as on an application or into your Finder sidebar) and are not trying to remove it.

You might object "I would *know* if I were holding down the command key." But it's possible you are inadvertently enabling "Sticky Keys". By default, Sticky Keys is turned on/off by pressing the shift key five times in a row. This is easy to do if you are playing a game that uses the shift key as a fire button.

When Sticky Keys is turned on, tapping any of the modifier keys (command, control, shift, option) makes the modifier key "stick", even after you lift your finger from the key, until you press a non-modifier key. The purpose is to facilitate use of the computer by someone who can press only one key at a time.

Note that dragging something to/from the Dock is a mouse action, not a "non-modifier key", and does not release the sticky modifier.

Tapping a modifier key twice in a row locks it, similar to how Caps Lock works. The key behaves as if pressed until you tap it again to unlock it.

If Sticky Keys has become activated, it's easy to press the command key intending to invoke some keyboard shortcut, and then change your mind. You lift your finger from the key, but Dock (and all your other apps) think you're still holding the key down.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Just killing the com.apple.dock.plist from the finder may not work because the system holds the current settings in memory and will just write them back.

You could try and delete it from Terminal.app

---

Update.

Go to ~/Library/Application Support folder in Finder and remove the folder:

`Dock` (this holds a dock database )

Then in terminal type and run

`defaults delete com.apple.dock.plist;killall Dock`
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: In Terminal.app type:

```
defaults read com.apple.dock contents-immutable

```

If it comes back with `1` then

Make a backup of the plist file and then try this command to unlock the Dock?

```
defaults write com.apple.dock contents-immutable -bool no; killall Dock

```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Do you use an app, such as TinkerTool (<http://www.bresink.com/osx/TinkerTool.html>) to modify the way your system works?

![TinkerTool Dock Settings](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2F3A.png)

I had a similar problem, except that it wasn't time bound (to my testing). I simply couldn't re-arrange the dock icons, no matter what options I had selected (in TinkerTool).

Finally, I decided to reset the options in TinkerTool, logout, and log back in. This solved it for me.

![TinkerTool reset area](https://i.stack.imgur.com/C0ECD.png)

If you haven't used any such apps, I think you could try downloading TinkerTool, playing around with the options it has for the dock, and finally, if nothing else works, do a reset of the TinkerTool options.

Note that I chose the option "Reset to pre-TinkerTool state" first, and immediately after I chose "Reset to defaults".

I hope this works for you as well!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Did you try this?

[Finder and Dock issues in OSX 10.10.1](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/160187/finder-and-dock-issues-in-osx-10-10-1)

I had the same exact problem and it was definitely caused by Pushbullet extension in Chrome. Disabled completely the extension, restarted the system and the dock started working.
Don't know if it was caused specifically by the "Universal copy & paste" option being enabled or the extension as a whole, would have to investigate this further. Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_6: If your issue is not resolved yet, I can come up with a series of things that might be happening but require some digging. You already commented somewhere that you found the solution in a Chrome extension, but if someone else arrives here with a similar issue but without using Chrome or an extension, this might prove useful.

First step is to check if this issue is system-wide or bound to your user account.

Make a new account via System Preferences, log out, and log in to the new account. Use the preinstalled Apple apps and see if the problem is still there.

If so, the issue has to do with something you installed and is running as an application or service in the background. It might also be something that hooked in to MCX which is a system designed for network administrators to make settings stick on computers.

If the issue is gone, it is only in your account. This means it is restricted to whatever applications are running when you log in, and any files and settings in your home folder. To figure out what is causing the problem, the following data is needed:

* List of files in ~/Library/LaunchAgents (if this directory exists)
* List of files in ~/Library/LaunchDaemons (if this directory exists)
* List of items in the extensions panel in the system preferences
* List of items in the Login Items in the Users & Groups panel (also sys prefs)
* List of applications that you have set to automatically start when you log in on the dock

This gives a list of all he possible items that might influence the normal operation of the Dock. The ~/ is a shorthand for your user home directory. The ~/Library directory can be accessed from the Finder by holding the Option key (or Alt key) and clicking the "Go" menu and then the Library item.

The next bit of data comes from the Activity Monitor. When you log in, please open the Activity Monitor, find the Dock item in the list of processes and double click it. This opens the detail view on the Dock process. The third tab, "Open files and Ports" contains a list of files the dock has opened. Copy that list here (or use a pasting service like pastebin.com ), which will give us a list of all the files that the Dock is using. If there is anything in there that doesn't belong there, that would be the culprit.

Next bit of data would be form the system logs. Console is the application you can use to view the logs and get specific data using the searching and filtering options. What you could do is start it and keep it open, and as soon as the Dock locks up (not allowing you to move items), check to see if the logs are suddenly showing things related to the Dock, or any application you have open, or maybe sandboxd, OpenGL or WindowServer. Copy those lines (and again, if it is a lot of text a pasting service like pastern.com might be useful to not bloat your post) and that might tell us what is happening.

Not begin able to drag anything around inside the dock but having everything else working leads me to believe that either something is locking the icons down, which is a supported function in the Dock, or an external application is trying to interface with the Dock for some sort of functionality and it is doing something wrong and thereby breaking some functions. The Dock is more than just a Dock, it also manages certain aspects of window swithcing, application switching, mission control, launching services and if I remember correctly some clipboard functions.

After you have collected the data, you might be able to restart the Dock from the Activity Monitor by using the "Quit" button at the bottom of that detail window you opened by double clicking the Dock from the process list. Hint: to stop the process list form bouncing around, sort it by name.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: Seems that pushbullet is the culprit (thanks @username_5). Specifically the chrome extension for pushbullet, uncheck universal copy and paste by visiting the extension's setting page. Do a restart and the problem should be fixed
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_8: Trying to rearrange Dock icons on 10.10.2 new MacBook Pro 13" Retina, I had this problem too. Accidentally hit on dragging while holding down fn key; huh? But it worked!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: I’m using 10.10.3 on a mid-2010 15" MacBook pro, and found the same problem. It seems that clicking on a particular dock icon very quickly opens the pop-up “Options…” menu immediately above it, and the icon is frozen in place. However, if I’m quick enough, I can move the icon before that menu appears, and icon remains movable for as long as I hold the trackpad “click.” Is it supposed to work this way? Who knows? Worth a try if it avoids some of the more exotic solutions offered above.

UPDATE: I got around to stopping in at a nearby Simply Mac store to see if my approach worked on any of their machines. Before I could explain the "problem," the nice sales clerk proceeded to move a dock icon exactly as I had at home. Seems that IS the way it's suppose to work!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_10: I do not have the "Pushbullet" chrome extension. For me it was a bit of misunderstanding and actually quite silly, I'm a developer and live mostly in the shell/terminal so I'm still quite unfamiliar with the GUI. I came from one computer (2012 Air) to my new computer

I wanted to remove some icons from the dock. I tried dragging them off, at this point a tooltip with the word "remove" would appear, when I let go the icon would just slide right back to my dock, "wut?".

**My Solution**

If an application isn't set to "keep in dock" then you won't be able to drag it off the dock, you'll experience what I mentioned above. All you have to do is... close the application, and it disappears off the dock.

**My Case**

I was trying to remove "chrome" from my dock since I use alfred to launch everything. I wasn't able to remove it, once I realized what I mentioned previously, it was a "duh" moment. I was then able to see that I could remove the apps from the dock that were indeed "locked" to it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: I just changed Dock preferences from Genie effect to Scale effect an it fixed the problem.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_12: Hold down "fn" key, then drag icons on Dock to desired position.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_13: I had this issue on my 2016 MacBook Pro 13". It had something to do with the haptic feedback trackpad. If I pushed firmly slowly, I noticed that it clicked twice and the second click shrunk the window (or said no windows available if the app I was trying to move was not live); this action would not let me move the icon. However if I press gently and move the icon quickly so would engage the first click, but not the second click, I could now move the icon. There may be some trackpad setting that I can have it turn off the hard and soft click but I am tired of monkeying with it for now.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_14: click and hold the ALT key, then mouse click and hold the icon you want to move. Took me a couple of times before I got the icon moving, but it worked for me.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_15: **If you have a USB mouse connected and are also using an Apple wireless mouse, disconnect the wired mouse.**

For me the problems went away when I did this.

The issue returned as soon as the USB mouse was plugged in again, even though not using it. I guess this could point to an issue with the generic driver software for the USB mouse?

This and other dock-related issues were driving me nuts:

* unable to move dock items in Yosemite 10.10.5
* unable to add dock items by drag and drop
* dock autohide feature not working
* item magnification not working unless mouse clicked
* other weird behaviours.

I tried all previously suggested prefs deletions and resets without joy.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_16: I was getting extremely annoyed with this but think I found a solution. After pressing the fn key, it started working flawlessly. Note I did not have to hold down the fn key but I just pressed it once and dragging/rearranging icons in the Dock worked.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: So I have a plist to keep monit running:

```
xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?

 Label
 com.monit.service
 KeepAlive

 ProgramArguments

 /usr/local/Cellar/monit/5.10/bin/monit
 -d 60

 RunAtLoad

 StandardOutPath
 /var/log/monit.log

```

I can do `launchctl load /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.monit.service.plist` to start the service, but `launchctl unload /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.monit.service.plist` will not stop it. I can see that the process keeps running no matter what I do.

The process shows up like this(note how the binary path doesn't show up, only the last argument):

output of ps aux:

```
root            14656   0.0  0.0  2482248   1656   ??  S     6:55PM   0:00.09 -d 60

```

How can I write the launchd plist so that it will actually stop the freaking process whenever I want it to stop?<issue_comment>username_1: I suspect since it is running from `/Library/LaunchDaemons/` and not the user `~/Library/LaunchAgents` you need to use `sudo` to issue the command with permission.

`sudo launchctl unload /Library/LaunchDaemons/com.monit.service.plist`
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Get rid of the `-d 60` arguments and use the `launchd` key `StartInterval` instead. Also make sure the process does not daemonize itself. According to the `monit` man page this is accomplished by using the `-I` option.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: Instead of handing over cumbersome (and likely to get lost) business cards, I like texting my vCard. However, I'd like to *not share* some of the information in my vCard—most importantly, my home address. Additionally, I taught Siri my entire extended family, which now gets shared with everybody I send my vCard to. This feels less than professional.

**Here's the problem:** I need my home address in my card if I'm going to get directions to Home using Maps. And I want Siri to know who's in my extended family. But I don't want to share this information when I share my vCard.

I sync my contacts through iCloud, so I was looking at my Mac's Contacts app to see if it had a solution. In Contacts preferences, I found this promising option: "Enable private me card":
![Contacts preferences vcard - enable private me card](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8JEjE.png)

What I was hoping for with a "private me card" was a way to set which pieces of information to share and which ones to keep private *on a per card basis* with just this one special "me card".

The only other solution I can come up with is to create 2 cards:

* one for my own private use via Siri, Maps, etc
* and another for sharing.

The downsides of this solution are that

* it's inelegant (two vCards for one person) and
* if a piece of information changes, I have to remember to update two cards, not just one.

Are there other options out there I haven't considered? Are there preferences in iOS, OS X, and/or iCloud that would solve this? And what is a "private me card"?<issue_comment>username_1: Working Solution :

Enable Private Card as you discussed in the Contacts Preferences. Then go to your card. (you can find your private card the one with the head silhouette). Then click on edit, and a bunch of share options will populate to the right of all the fields. Select the ones you wish to share and that will be the only information that is sent when you share you card.

![pic1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KK0rN.png)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: **UPDATE**

**As of 2022 and iOS 16 we can finally choose which contact information to share... previously this was not possible on iOS, only macOS.**

From iPhone and iPad

1. Open the Contact app or the Phone app and tap Contacts.
2. Tap and hold the contact you want to share and pick Share from the menu.
3. Tap Filter Fields.
4. Uncheck the fields you don’t want to share and tap Done.
5. Now, share your contact via your preferred medium like Messages, Mail, WhatsApp, etc., and only the selected details will be shared.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to install an app form App Store and getting "**This item is temporarily unavailable. Try again later.**" Tried to install the app on different macs (with the same icloud ID), but still getting the same problem. Any ideas on how to fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: Right, now we have more information to go on, go to **Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility**. On the left pane you will see a list of storage devices, your boot drive should be at the top of the list. You should see the top device broken down into partitions. Highlight the "parent" drive (top of the list) and then click on **Partition**. In the main area you will see the drive partitions. Highlight the one you need to remove and click on the "-" button. This will prompt you to confirm removal of the partition. Once you've removed the partition you can then run Boot Camp Assistant and it should hopefully work ok.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: OK,

To start off, I will ask the typical questions.

Do you have the latest firmware for you Mac? See [EFI and SMC firmware updates for Intel-based Macs](http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201518).

What is the Model Identifier of your Mac?

Can you edit your question and add the output from the following commands? To enter the commands, you will need to open a Terminal application window. Some of the commands will ask for your login password. This is normal. None of the commands change your Mac. They just give me more information.

```
diskutil list
diskutil cs list
sudo gpt -r -vvv show -l /dev/disk0
sudo fdisk /dev/disk0

```

It would be helpful to know your internet connection speed. Can you start your Mac using OS X Internet Recovery and report to me how long this takes? The instructions can be found at [OS X: About OS X Recovery](http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT4718). I just what to know how long it takes to boot.

Do you do backups? If so how? For example, do you use Time Machine?

Do you have any flash drives for external disks available? If so, how are they partitioned and formatted.

Do you have other machines running Windows or OS X. If so, which versions?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You won't be able to install or remove Windows7/8 with Boot Camp Assistant because you have a non-standard partition layout and the file system of your Windows partition is wrong (HFS+!):

```
/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *751.3 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS WINDOWS                 100.0 GB   disk0s2
   3:                  Apple_HFS MAC DATA 1              325.5 GB   disk0s3
   4:          Apple_CoreStorage                         324.7 GB   disk0s4
   5:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s5
/dev/disk1
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:                  Apple_HFS MAC OS                 *324.3 GB   disk1
                                 Logical Volume on disk0s4
                                 XXXXXXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXXXXXXXXXX
                                 Unencrypted

```

A standard pre-Boot Camp (**CoreStorage**) partition layout looks like this:

```
/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *751.3 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:          Apple_CoreStorage                         749.7 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3
/dev/disk1
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:                  Apple_HFS MAC OS                 *749.4 GB   disk1
                                 Logical Volume on disk0s2
                                 XXXXXXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXXXXXXXXXX
                                 Unencrypted

```

A standard pre-Boot Camp (**non-CoreStorage**) partition layout looks like this:

```
/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *751.3 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS Macintosh HD            750.5 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3

```

The hybrid MBR/GUID necessary for Boot Camp Assistant to install/boot Windows doesn't allow more than 4 partitions:

* Apple CoreStorage or Macintosh HD
* Recovery HD
* your future Windows 7/8
* a place holder in the MBR (some count the EFI-partition as the fourth one, but this doesn't seem to be true)

A standard post-Boot Camp Assistant Win Install (**CoreStorage**) partition layout looks like this:

```
/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *751.3 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:          Apple_CoreStorage                         324.7 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3
   4:       Microsoft Basic Data Windows                 425.1 GB   disk0s4
/dev/disk1
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:                  Apple_HFS MAC OS                 *324.3 GB   disk1
                                 Logical Volume on disk0s2
                                 XXXXXXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXXXXXXXXXX
                                 Unencrypted

```

A standard post-Boot Camp Assistant Win Install (**non-CoreStorage**) partition layout looks like this:

```
/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *751.3 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS Macintosh HD            324.7 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3
   4:       Microsoft Basic Data Windows                 425.1 GB   disk0s4

```

* So back up all necessary data on the volumes MAC DATA 1, MAC OS and WINDOWS to an external drive.
* Detach all external drives
* Reboot to Internet Recovery Mode (press `alt``cmd``R` after the start chime) which may take between 6 minutes (50 MBit/s) and up to an hour (5 MBit/s).
* Start Disk Utility and erase/partition the whole internal disk (GUID-partition scheme/HFS+/1 Partition). If you get an error message trying to erase your main drive, you might have to remove the CoreStorage volume first:

	+ Booted to Internet Recovery Mode open Utilities → Terminal in the menubar and enter:

	`diskutil cs list` to get the CoreStorage listing.
	+ Copy the Logical Volume UUID, it's the fourth listed.
	+ Now delete the Logical Volume with `diskutil cs deleteVolume LVUUID`.
	+ Copy the Logical Volume Group UUID, it's the first listed in the listing of `diskutil cs list`.
	+ Then delete the Logical Volume Group with `diskutil cs delete LVGUUID`.
* Restore/reinstall Mac OS X.
* Upgrade to your preferred Mac OS X.
* Restore your backup data (but don't restore your old partition layout!). I recommend the Migration Assistant to import your system settings, applications and your user data.
* Start Boot Camp Assistant and install Windows7. If you run into problems (error message: "No device drivers were found for my CD/DVD device...") check my answer [here](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/148246/late-2013-macbook-retina-windows-7-x64-bootcamp-no-device-drivers-found/148898#148898).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: First off, create a partition called BOOTCAMP as Fat32 or ExFat - then shut down and plug in the Windows USB/CD

Turn on Mac and before it boots, hold down the `option` key. if the trackpad and/or keyboard doesn't work, plug in an external one.
Install Windows as Normal, while choosing the BOOTCAMP Drive as the destination partition.

visit this [site](http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1721) and download the Bootcamp drivers. **Be sure to check your Mac Specifications!** They can be found at the bottom of the page.

Follow instructions to install the drivers - Done!

These are the same steps I had to use when the bootcamp assistant crapped on me like yours did.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: another possibility is that your firevault is encrypting or the encryption is on.
you need to turn off firevault off, then run the bootcamp.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Is there a way, or ways, to retrieve iMessages or text messages sent to me by a number or email address I have blocked on my iPhone 6?<issue_comment>username_1: Tap the Phone Icon.Then tap the Voicemail Icon. Scroll to the very bottom, and if anyone left a voice mail while the number was blocked, it will be listed under Blocked, and you can play them back.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have been blocked the phone will ring once then go straight to voicemail or it will go straight to voicemail without ringing. A text message will show as delivered but the person will never see it. If it has a single green tick next to it it means you have been blocked.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Text messages that are blocked are not saved. So you cannot go in to see old text messages.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: If you have a MacBook (I have MacBook Air), you can easily tell if someone has blocked you. With the new iMessage service *every* message appears as "delivered" (blocked or unblocked), however if your MacBook Air is synced with your iPhone, you will *not* see a delivered notification on the very same message your iPhone is showing as "delivered".
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I was trying to clean install OS X (from <http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/how-clean-install-os-x-yosemite-via-bootable-usb-flash-drive-1470625>).

I made the bootable disk, booted from it, and tried installing. Something happened and installation began. I went out for 20 mins and when I returned, I saw the installation welcome screen again. Proceeding on which I found that it came to installing it once again, but this time the internal Macintosh HD was not showing only the USB (Install OS X Yose..) was shown.

What to do? Where did my HDD go? any help?<issue_comment>username_1: Try and format the disk by using Disk Utility built into the installer (Utility > Disk Utility) then try and reinstall.

This should work since 'Macintosh HD' is only a volume and not the actual SSD. I used this method to fix the `b-node tree error` or whatever it is where I couldn't write to it.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I tried replacing the SSD and started it.

I pressed the keys combination of Internet Recovery and it worked. My Macbook is now working fine with El Caption installed. :)
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Try and format the disk by using Disk Utility built into the installer (Utility > Disk Utility) then try and reinstall.

This should work since 'Macintosh HD' is only a volume and not the actual SSD. I used this method to fix the b-node tree error or whatever it is where I couldn't write to it.

This worked
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I've got an OS X Snow Leopard Server config on a Mac Pro 1,1. I can't upgrade any further on that hardware.

However, I've got a spare MacPro 3,1 and wondered if it would be "simple" to just move the disks to the new hardware?

I thought I'd ask first just in case the disks get updated with something which means I can't go back to the old MacPro.<issue_comment>username_1: Checking the [specs](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/specs/mac-pro-quad-2.0-specs.html) of the the MacPro1,1 you should be able to upgrade to 10.7.5 if you upgraded it to at least 2 GB of RAM and you don't need Rosetta (for PPC-apps).

Since the [preinstalled system](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/mac_pro/specs/mac-pro-quad-core-2.8-2008-specs.html) on the MacPro 3,1 was 10.5.1 and both are equipped with a SATA (3 Gb/s) internal HD-interface, there shouldn't be any problem to move the "old" disks.

Your disks won't be updated with anything, except you initiate it yourself.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As 10.6.8 is supported on both Mac Pros the simple answer is **yes**, you can transfer your disks over to the newer Mac Pro and your installation will work as it did before.

Assuming you don't do something silly like accept the free update to Yosemite (which is supported on the Mac Pro 3,1) you will be able to move the disk back to the older machine if you need to. As long as you stay with 10.6.8 there are no updates that will break the ability for your 10.6.8 startup disk to boot the older Mac.

Having said that, if the newer Mac Pro is of a reasonably higher spec - and you want newer server features such as Profile Manager - you may want to think about performing a clean installation of 10.10 (as well as purchasing the latest iteration of OS X Server), then migrating the data over from the older machine. The only cost is the purchase of OS X server, and that's not exactly going to break the bank.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: My Snow Leopard 10.6.8 disk from my old MacPro 1,1 is now on my MacPro 5,1. Yes, it boots. I don't use it much anymore, but since there are 4 HD bays, I just keep it there.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have a 2011 MacBook Pro i7 and I have upgraded the memory to 8 GB and the HD to an SSD 500GB. The other day I had it running for 3 days non-stop and when I tried to use it it was frozen. I reset it and when it went to the boot screen the graphics looked funny like 16bit color mode, and it got stuck after a couple of seconds. I removed the hard drive and I noticed that I can access all the files and I backed them up. I downloaded Yosemite and I tried to install it from an USB stick but after loading for a while the screen turned gray and it froze. I'm a bit baffled as what might be the problem? Do you think it's the hardrive or is the hardware failing? I'm attaching screenshots of the bootup srceens.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/h8SWc.jpg)
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6SERP.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately you *may* have hardware issues if yours is an "Early 2011" model, many owners have reported symptoms similar to yours with the culprit being failed ball grid array solder on the graphics processor. There's some info [here](https://tidbits.com/article/14385). The article has a link for a utility that will allow you run solely on the integrated Intel HD3000 graphics so at least you'll be able to continue using your MacBook (in theory at least, we do have an Early 2011 i7 15" on campus but so far it's not had any problems).

Ultimately the fix will either be a replacement logic board or you can try any one of a number of companies offering to "re-ball" or "re-flow" the solder on GPUs. Any company offering Xbox 360 or PS3 repairs should be able to do this.

[Here](https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro-videoissues/) is a link to the "MacBook Pro Repair Extension Program for Video Issues" for your Mac model.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Does your system come up normally if you hold down the shift key while powering up? (That puts you into "safe mode".) If so, there's a simple software-only fix.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to solve the mystery of a crazy high cpu usage on kernel\_task.

MacBook Pro (Retina, Mid 2012), 2.7 GHz Intel Core i7, Yosemite 10.10.2

I saw some advice to download the Intel Power Gadget. That showed me that the my CPU is slowing way down. How do I fix this? When this happens, I can sometimes cycle the power on the MBP. But this is driving me crazy.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdtfW.jpg)

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WEily.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Apple documents this.

>
> Activity Monitor may show that a process named kernel\_task is using a large percentage of your CPU, and during this time you may notice a lot of fan activity. This process helps manage temperature by making the CPU less available to processes that are using the CPU intensely. In other words, kernel\_task responds to conditions that cause your CPU to become too hot. When the temperature decreases, kernel\_task automatically reduces its activity.
>
>
>

<https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203184>

You might want to [reset the SMC one time](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295) to be sure it's not stuck and providing incorrect temperature readings to the processor.

If the SMC or high temperatures is the root cause, you should be able to correlate the various internal temperature sensors and physical measurement of the case and exhaust air temperature with the design throttling of the kernel scheduling and the clock rate adjustments the chipset is designed to make in response to thermal measurements.

Worst case, you have a hardware issue with faulty temperature sensors or an out-of-spec CPU that generates more heat than it should for a given GHz clock rate.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: In my case, I had a MBP used continuously for 3 years. The local Mac store opened the case and cleared out the dust. That FIXED the problem!!!!

Basically the extra dust caused the CPU to overheat.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: My current MB Pro Retina(late 2013) suffers from this. I installed Ubuntu on my laptop just so that I can barely run the browser and terminal.

The reason behind my laptops throttling seems to be faulty temperature sensors. Some of the sensors are reporting a reading of -127C which starts the throttling. I have compiled temperature readings from sensors in this [github gist](https://gist.github.com/afm-sayem/1d5b23e8e481722f9d169a63dfee3c93 "gist").

So far, there's no solution in sight. I have tried cleaning, modifying kernel extensions and resetting SMC.

---
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: Recently, my sister picked up an [Early-2009 MacBook](http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook/specs/macbook-core-2-duo-2.0-white-13-early-2009-nvidia-specs.html) at a Flea Market. Everything worked fine, but it had belonged to a school, and it had DeepFreeze installed on it, and it really bothered her. She got her hands on a Snow-Leopard Installation Disk, and tried to reinstall OS X. When she put the disk in and held down C, it booted up in Snow-Leopard, but it said "this OS X Cannot Be Installed On This Computer", and proceeded to try to go to TimeMachine. So this is where it gets interesting. She read somewhere to ignore any messages that pop up, and she went ahead and in the Disk Utility, she deleted the "Macintosh HD", so there is no longer an OS on the drive.

I am a PC guy, and I have no idea what to do now. Is there any way to get the Snow-Leopard OS X disk to work on an Early-2009 MacBook, or will I have to torrent a Leopard Image and go through the process of putting it on a proper DVD?<issue_comment>username_1: You have saved your file as a Rich Text Format file (.rtf)

In TextEdit.app

Open your file and use the Make Plain Text menu to change it to the correct format for coding.

Using anything other than plan text will mean that the file includes formatting code for styles and such that is visible to the shell layer but not to the user when viewing the file.

For example.

Rich Text Format file with the extension changed is still a rich text file

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EhQBW.jpg)

---

Reading it from the command line.

`$ cat foo.command`

```
{\rtf1\ansi\ansicpg1252\cocoartf1344\cocoasubrtf720
{\fonttbl\f0\fnil\fcharset0 Menlo-Regular;}
{\colortbl;\red255\green255\blue255;\red43\green39\blue19;\red234\green234\blue234;\red37\green127\blue159;
}
\paperw11900\paperh16840\margl1440\margr1440\vieww10800\viewh8400\viewkind0
\deftab720
\pard\pardeftab720

\f0\fs26 \cf2 \cb3 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
defaults write com.apple.finder \cf4 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
CreateDesktop\cf2 \expnd0\expndtw0\kerning0
 -bool true}

```

---

Change to plain text and re saved.

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zAtqe.jpg)

---

![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vf5I3.jpg)

---

Read from the command line.

```
$ cat foo.command
defaults write com.apple.finder CreateDesktop -bool true

```

( examples are for illustration only and not how to do the actual coding)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you're just needing to run any two commands via a script, you can just create something like this, open a text editor and add:

```
#!/bin/bash
echo foo && echo bar

```

Save it as foo.sh, then:

```
$ sh ./foo.sh
foo
bar

```

The `&&` lets you have two commands being executed, one after another, or you can just put the commands on different lines.

In your case, replace `echo foo` with `defaults write com.apple.finder CreateDesktop -bool true` and replace `echo bar` with `killall Finder`. You'll probably need to run `foo.sh` with elevated priveleges using `$ sudo sh ./foo.sh` since you are changing defaults and killing pids.

You may have to make it executable, too:

`chmod +x foo.sh`

See <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/8409946/how-do-i-make-this-file-sh-executable-via-double-click>
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I have a friend who is currently in China.

We talk a lot using iMessage.
The problem is that sometimes the iMessage isn't delivered and my iPhone sends it automatically as an sms (= fee !!).

I have enabled the option in the settings to do so, so that's the normal behaviour. But is it possible to enable it only for local numbers (not foreign) ?

I pretty much doubt it, but there's no harm in asking the question :)<issue_comment>username_1: It's an option similar to one I've previously searched in vain for - short answer is there is no granular control over whether or not to send as SMS.

The safest option is likely to be to simply disable 'Send as SMS' altogether.

Settings > Messages
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Search for Diagnostics in settings. In Diagnostics & Usage settings menu, select "Don't Send" instead of "Automatically Send" to avoid charges of international sms.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had similar issue, have made the following changes, hoping that this will prevent sending international messages

Navigate to Settings -> Messages -> enable iMessage if it is not enabled, then disable **send as SMS option** and finally disable iMessage.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: In Windows one can right click, head over to display preferences and have the OS increase everything globally ... icons, fonts, etc ... by a certain factor. It's really helpful for "old" eyes. Is there an equivalent for Mac? I have found zillions of places to tweak things piecemeal. But am looking One place, One setting. Am certain it exists, but as a Mac novice I have struggled.

Am using Mac Air; OS X Yosemite 10.10.2<issue_comment>username_1: Use:

```
System Preferences -> Accessibility -> Zoom

```

More details [here](https://support.apple.com/kb/PH18385?locale=en_US)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: How about increasing your screen resolution by adjusting it in

```
System Preferences > Displays > Scaled > Adjust for Larger Text - More Space

```
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: The simplest way is the Zoom from Accessibility, instead of the annoying fullscreen mode you can do picture to picture that isn’t so annoying. To increase the everything you’ll have to change the resolution as @username_2 mentioned. That’s has the draw-back of not looking so good.

Otherwise you’ll have to do increase size app by app. Most apps now have zoom options, like in Safari it’s under View menu, in Mail it’s under Window; just search in the Help menu and it should show. To make the icons bigger right click any Finder window, and Show View Options. There you can set it as you like, and click Use as Defaults. The sidebar size can be increased in General Pref Pane. You can also increase the cursor size Accessibility -> Display. The Dock can be resized by dragging the Line next to trash up and down, or in the pref pane. Also apps have a convention of using ⌘+Plus and ⌘+Minus or with Shift and Alt for zooming. You can always try that.

So options are there but there isn’t a global one, except the Zoom feature from Accessibility.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: For permanent and full screen increase in fonts ect use System Preferences.

Select Display, now hold the "alt" key and click on scaled.

Here I would choose the 1024x640 and if it is to large choose next one.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: Is there any possibility for me to upgrade to any iOS on my iPhone 4G from iOS 4.1?

Mine is still a nice stable phone, but I can't download any apps. It is jailbroken, unlocked and I have saved the SHSH blobs if that would help.

I have tried updating for a long time, but it did not work because the Apple signing has ceased by the time I try.<issue_comment>username_1: You will have to plug your iPhone into a computer and update using iTunes to the latest iOS version. This will of course undo the jailbreak.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can upgrade iPhone 4G to latest iOS 7.1.2, but since your iPhone is jailbreak, the phone itself cannot complete the upgrade. You need connect the phone with itunes on computer, and use iTunes to complete the upgrade process.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I am somewhat new the world of Mac and "i" devices. I have an iMac 9 and I am thinking about buying an iPad mini but have read statements on the web that if I write my own app I will go through the App Store to get onto my own iPad and pay a $100 annual fee. How mush truth is there to this? This is very extreme for someone that wants to write apps for my own use.

Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: You would have to pay around 100$ (annual) for iOS Developer Program in order to upload Your app to the device. You won't have to upload it via AppStore but directly from Xcode.

You need to pay, because Apple provides You all neccessary Provisioning Profiles, Certificates etc. You'll be able to add up to 100 iDevices to Your account.

Here's [knowledge base](https://developer.apple.com/support/ios/) with all informations.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you're not on the latest version of iOS you could also jailbreak your device to be able to deploy iOS apps. This is an [easy tutorial](http://www.grobinson.me/developing-and-debugging-my-own-apps-on-jailbroken-ios8-1-using-xcode-6-1-without-paying-apple/) explaining the process

1. On your Jailbroken device install AppSync Unified 5.2-1 (or later) from AngelXWind’s repo. Don’t use any other AppSync, and if you have others, be sure to remove them.
2. Open `/Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/Platforms/iPhoneOS.platform/Developer/SDKs/iPhoneOS.sdk/SDKSettings.plist` and change AD\_HOC\_CODE\_SIGNING\_ALLOWED to YES. You may need to duplicate it to the desktop, change it, save it, then drag and drop back into the original folder because OS X let you edit the file in place.
3. If XCode was running, restart XCode.
4. Change your Project and Target settings to “Ad Hoc Code Sign” in Build Settings
5. Tell XCode to run app on iPhone. At this point XCode will put app on your iDevice, but can’t debug because it can’t attach to the process. The app will start then close immediately. You can now manually start the app on the phone now though.
6. To enable debugging: In your project select File>New File Property List and create a file called `Entitlements.plist`. Add `Can be debugged`` or`get-task-allow` (both do the same thing) and set the value to YES.
7. Now change your Project and Target Code Signing Entitlements (In Build Settings) to `Entitlements.plist` (you have to type it in).
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: Is there a way for me to export my system preferences on my Mac for quick install on another machine?

An example of what I am trying to accomplish is, when I start a new job, I would like to import my settings and have my system preference work without having to manually configure all of my custom settings.

I am most interested in exporting settings for :

* Trackpad / Mouse
* Keyboard
* Dock
* dashboard (I like to disable it)<issue_comment>username_1: There's not exactly an export function. You can find (most) preferences in the library. If you hold alt/option and select "Go To" in the Finder menu bar, you can open the user library. There's a folder named preferences which contains the corresponding files. Named like com.apple.xy.plist, where xy is 'dock' for example.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you cannot find an app/applet that does this, you might need to hack it yourself through Terminal. Take Bluetooth Trackpad for example:

Run:

```
defaults read com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.trackpad

```

I get:

```
{
    Clicking = 0;
    DragLock = 0;
    Dragging = 0;
    TrackpadCornerSecondaryClick = 0;
    TrackpadFiveFingerPinchGesture = 2;
    TrackpadFourFingerHorizSwipeGesture = 2;
    TrackpadFourFingerPinchGesture = 2;
    TrackpadFourFingerVertSwipeGesture = 2;
    TrackpadHandResting = 1;
    TrackpadHorizScroll = 1;
    TrackpadMomentumScroll = 1;
    TrackpadPinch = 1;
    TrackpadRightClick = 1;
    TrackpadRotate = 1;
    TrackpadScroll = 1;
    TrackpadThreeFingerDrag = 0;
    TrackpadThreeFingerHorizSwipeGesture = 2;
    TrackpadThreeFingerTapGesture = 2;
    TrackpadThreeFingerVertSwipeGesture = 2;
    TrackpadTwoFingerDoubleTapGesture = 1;
    TrackpadTwoFingerFromRightEdgeSwipeGesture = 3;
    USBMouseStopsTrackpad = 0;
    UserPreferences = 1;
    version = 5;
}

```

These are my settings for external trackpad. You get find the same results by opening

`~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.plist`

but simply copying and pasting the `.plist` file to a new computer doesn't change the settings. You have to use `import` (and `export`) options.

```
defaults export com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad ~/Desktop/Test.plist

```

Move `Test.plist` to the new computer, and:

```
defaults import com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad ~/Desktop/Test.plist

```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I updated my answer because all of it was wrong:

---

You will want to use an applescript for your preference setups. Here is the code for some of them and screenshots of the actual plist so you get an idea of the options possible. IF this does not apply straight away, you might need to restart the computer. **Don't forget to save applescript as an Application. NOT script**

Trackpad/Mouse
==============

In here, it varies. It is either `com.apple.driver.AppleHIDMouse` for mouse, `com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.mouse` for bluetooth mouse, and `com.apple.AppleMultitouchTrackpad` for trackpad

```
tell application "Terminal"
do shell script "defaults write com.apple.AppleHIDMouse Button2 1"
end tell

```

The example above changes right click to be left click as well

Keyboard
========

Unfortunately, I could not find a preference for keyboard. I will keep on searching though.

Dock
====

```
tell application "Terminal"
do shell script "defaults write com.apple.dock autohide YES"
end tell

```

This was just an example. Switch autohide with whatever option and YES with value or boolean. Booleans are YES and NO (unlike in scripts "true" "false") I put a picture on the end so you can see all the possible options for all the options.

Disable Dashboard
=================

I also could not find how to. Though it is presumably in `com.apple.spaces`

Dock options:
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4F6DW.png)

Mouse:
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MCOzl.png)

Bluetooth Mouse
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwG4I.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: I wrote some scripts to backup and restore Mac preferences. It does both System and Application preferences.

You can grab them here: <https://github.com/clintmod/mac-preferences-backup>

They're pretty simple. I just loop over the domains from running `defaults domains` and then call `default export [domain] [plist file path]`.

Then to restore I just loop over all the plist files in the dir and run `default import [plist file path]`

You can modify the `config.py` file if you want to backup to a different dir. The default dir is `~/Dropbox/MacPrefsBackup`.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: There is no specific way of doing this, but this is how I do it. My setup is redundant but it works the best for me and nothing is ever lost.

>
> TL;DR: Make sure you have [homebrew](https://brew.sh/) installed. Then run the following.
>
>
>

```
brew install mackup
mackup backup
brew install clintmod/formulas/macprefs
macprefs backup

```

But I recommend you read the docs of these two tools

* [Mackup](https://github.com/lra/mackup)
* [MacPerfs](https://github.com/clintmod/macprefs)

Peace! ✌
Upvotes: 3


<issue_start>username_0: I moved to Photos and iCloud Photo Library, and I am happy so far. Because of previous imports, crashes and re-imports, several thousand duplicates (identical pictures - not of the same photo) in my library. Now I would like to identify these and delete them.

I have upgraded my [Duplicate Annihilator](http://brattoo.com/propaganda/#photos) from Aperture to Photos but my 56000 photos seem to be to much for it, because they claim that it is Photos API which is causing problems and slowness.

Is there an other way of finding duplicates and deleting them from my iCloud Library?<issue_comment>username_1: Duplicate Annihilator worked great for iPhoto and Aperture, but it looks like their Photos support is still lacking. It may not be feasible to do a good job until a new version of Photos is released with a proper API. I checked and I don't see any alternatives yet.

But I'm sure they'll be coming. So, unless you want to run Duplicate Annihilator on iPhoto and then reimport, I would just wait for it to improve.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem as you. Here's what I did to remove the duplicates quickly and easily.

1. Export your entire photo library to a folder.
2. Close photos and create a new photos library. (No deleting until you know it worked)
3. Open that new empty library in photos and drag everything (using CMD+a in finder) in that exported folder to the Photos.app window.
4. During the import you will be prompted to choose what you want to have done for duplicate photos and it will show you the first two identical photos that it has found, select "skip" and "apply to all".
5. There you have a full library of purely unique photos.

Notes: Since you mentioned you have 5000 photos, the Mac will potentially become a little unresponsive while you're dragging them into the window. Be patient with it and let it do it's thing but it is working. (4,3000 photos was a little stuttery on my 2012 Mac mini i5 but it did work after being patient)

Photos may not be able to detect if it already has those photos in the library yet but doing it during the import has proven to be a reliable solution so just be prepared to do a massive import for now.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Export and import didn't worked for me. Actually worked but duplicates were not detected. dupeGuru Photo Edition (<http://www.hardcoded.net/dupeguru/>) helped, recommend it, it's free.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: I need to purchase a new Mac computer to start developing iOS apps using Xcode and Swift. It's my first time Mac ever so I'm confused. I know its kinda of portability choice between the 2 models but It's not an issue with me as I'm not travelling a lot nor develop outside home. So my main concern would be the possibility of coding as well as option to make me comfortable with coding. (screen size factor, Retina display, ...etc).

Any advice would be much appreciated!<issue_comment>username_1: I find that the flexibility of being able to move around in the house makes it worth getting a laptop. Mobile freedom is really addictive once you get used to it. The only issue is that, for coding, having a ton of screen real-estate is advantageous. Obviously the iMac has the MacBook Pro beat in that regard, but you could get a cheap external display for that purpose. It depends on which setup you'd find yourself most comfortable with. Sometimes, if I'm just writing a Python script with no UI, I can easily do it with one monitor, and so then the mobile freedom offered to me by my laptop is incredibly nice. The other times, I have a cheap external monitor for my UI, and my MacBook Pro's monitor for the code, since it has such a high res display to make all the text crystal clear. The UI monitor doesn't have to be terribly high-res, just large. It works well for me.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Let me suggest you the Macbook Pro and let me explain why.

For me the most important thing developing with xcode is the screen resolution. You usually have two or more xcode panels open, so, more resolution means more space and let you be more agile and productive. Plus, if you use the simulator to test programs, you will want to have it in the same screen.

Said that, the 21" iMac have less screen resolution than the Macbook Pro. So, if I were you I will go for the MacBook Pro.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have a program which generates some html documentation. At the end of the script, I use the `open` command to automatically view the page in the browser.

```
generate-document > index.html
open index.html

```

However, after iterating on the code, I end up with numerous obsolete copies of `index.html` open in my browser.

Is there a way (either from the command line, or within the browser) to say something like "if index.html is already being viewed refresh it, otherwise load it."?

```
generate-document > index.html
open-or-reload index.html

```

Safari or Chrome specific methods are fine.<issue_comment>username_1: Check out [LiveReload](http://livereload.com). It is an app that watches your HTML files and can automatically for reload the pages in your browser. LiveReload can also do other things like automatically recompile SASS files to CSS and then reload the browser.

In addition to the app at the link above, LiveReload is available on GitHub under a "Open Community Indie Software License" which is not quite open source, but does include a dead man clause to convert to MIT if no new binary updates come out for two years. <https://github.com/livereload/LiveReload>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The following command line can be added to your script and it will refresh the Tab that has focus in the frontmost Safari window, (even if the frontmost window only has a single page loaded):

```
osascript -e \
'tell application "Safari" to set URL of current tab of front window to "file:///foo.html"'

```
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: Via `Settings/Safari/Saved Passwords/` it is possible to view all saved passwords by simply entering the 4 digit passcode on ones iPhone.

Is it possible to still be able to use Keychain passwords and autofill, but prevent access by the 4 digit code (e.g. requiring the full Keychain/iCloud password), so that someone who knows your phone code is not able to access all of your internet passwords in plain text?

EDIT: it is possible to set a different 4 digit code as the "Keychain pin" via turning on `Settings/iCloud/Keychain/Advanced/"Approve with Security Code"`, but the phone 4 digit code is still used for accessing the saved Safari passwords as above... It would be great if there was a way to always require the "Keychain pin" instead.

RELATED: the analogous problem on Mac OS X: [How to prevent Safari saved passwords being seen with Mac password?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/190325/how-to-prevent-safari-saved-passwords-being-seen-with-mac-password).<issue_comment>username_1: I believe that OSX does this automatically, via AppNap. You don't need to pay a third party company for this feature, since Lion.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You could use Quitter by <NAME>: <https://marco.org/apps>

>
> [![Quitter screenshot](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIK9h.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dIK9h.png)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]


<issue_start>username_0: I code on eclipse and XCode on my Mid 2009 MBP 15 inch 2.8 ghz works very good. (very good = acceptable compile times and almost no occasional freezes. You don't get because of the slowness percentage) (It is also in very good physical condition)

I will be taking out my computer with me to meet a group of friends for a week to work on projects, brainstorm, etc.. I see this (as an excuse) opportunity to refresh my macbookpro (even though technically I am cool with it).

Do you think that I have to upgrade my device to MBPr 13 inch (256gb default option)?

My device does not have usb3 ports, retina screen, solid-state disk, thunderbolt, hdmi out(I use minidisplay to hdmi converter(no-audio)).

Do you think that I miss things? Like... may my working environment be less inspiring? (:<issue_comment>username_1: If I had to read between the lines, you are indirectly asking if the physical size and resolution of the 13 inch retina Mac is equal to or better than your existing 15 inch model.

It's clear that everything is faster on the new models. Heck, the new 2015 MacBook would probably run every workload and benchmark faster than any 2009 Mac including the Mac Pro of that vintage.

I would encourage you to refresh now. It's always the best time to buy Apple products when a new one is announced.

1. You know exactly what the latest bump is and can choose to get "last year's model" on sale from Apple or for a very good price used or buy the latest.
2. Between new and refurbished, you probably have 4 (or 6) price points instead of the 2 you normally get buying new from Apple.

As to the specifics of your "upgrade" - it's a great time to upgrade.

1. Intel CPU are massively more efficient and powerful from 2009 to 2015
2. USB is massively better - both in absolute terms and that Macs from 2009 had less optimal drivers for them IMO.
3. SSD storage is far better than HDD for almost every use case. Not only are you getting that jump, the the SSD in 2014/2015 are far better than 2012 and earlier in terms of performance and $/perf.
4. Retina screens are excellent for cases where you have lots of elements (Xcode and text) as well as far more pleasing than LCD from 2009 era.
5. You get a new Mac after 5 years

All of the above reasons would make your work environment much more inspiring. Especially if you can sell your old Mac or donate it and afford the new one.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I Know that i am late but if you still have the macbook pro 15 inch 2009 you should put an ssd (solid state drive) in it and 8gb of ram. my friend just got a 2015 macbook air and mine is almost as fast as his. + those macbook pros are really expensive. trust me if you haven't upgraded it yet, you should try it as it is a huge improvement from the hdd (hard disk drive). and if you use a lot of cd's you won't have to connect an external drive every time your need to use it. plus the screen is a 1440 x 900 the new screens are 2560 by 1600 it isn't that much of a difference really they make it seem better than it really is. Also the bigger screen means more screen real estate which means bigger apps open at the same time. I really suggest you try this first before upgrading (if u haven't yet) and if you still think you need an upgrade, go for it.
Upvotes: 1


<issue_start>username_0: I have some friends that try turning my MacBook Pro off (I always do it back to them if they do :) ).

My question is to make it harder for them to do that I could remove the power button key from my Mac. Would this void the warranty or not? I want to know this because I got AppleCare and do not want to waste that money<issue_comment>username_1: Assuming you signed the AppleCare plan on the US, this is what the [legal document](http://www.apple.com/legal/sales-support/applecare/appmacnaen.html) states:

>
> **4. What is not Covered?**
>
>
> (ii) Damage caused by (…) (b) accident, abuse, misuse, liquid contact, fire, earthquake or other external cause, (c) operating the Covered Equipment outside the permitted or intended uses described by the manufacturer, or (d) service (including upgrades and expansions) performed by anyone who is not a representative of Apple or an Apple Authorized Service Provider (“AASP”);
>
>
>

I'm not a lawyer, but abuse and misuse may be applied to removing keys.

You may get away with it if you present it as an "upgrade", and you are an Apple Authorized Service Provider :)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Generally you can do **anything** to your Apple device as long as the Apple Genius/tech cant see evidence of what was done. Which means that If popping off key caps and then putting them back on leaves no trace you are likely safe.

And I mean **no** trace. You would be surprised what an Apple genius/technician will find that you never noticed.

And third party replacements totally count as evidence of "tampering." So if you put a 3rd party SSD (or RAM, or whatever) in the Mac, put the Apple branded part back in before you take it in to Apple as they will take it out and say they can't and won't support non-Apple parts.
Upvotes: 2


<issue_start>username_0: Under:

System Preferences > Users & Groups > Advanced Options > Aliases:

There are 2 lines. One is my Apple ID. The second is in the form

```
com.apple.idms.GUID

```

What is the significance of these fields?

I do **not** have my Apple ID set to login my computer.<issue_comment>username_1: A user name alias functions as a simple way to create a shorthand version of an account name.

For example, if a users full account name is “Buscar웃SD” (which would be difficult to type every time to log in), one could setup an alias as “BSD” and just login with the shortened version instead.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: username_1 answer is correct historically. I believe it is still true, but nowadays [anything in advanced preferences must be approached with great caution](https://eclecticlight.co/2018/05/24/user-account-advanced-options-shortcut-to-hell/).

I think it's might be safe to add an additional alias there, but be careful about removing any. It's not clear what the com.apple.idms.appleid.prd.GUID or similar Aliases mean, but a [2017 Apple Discussion response](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/7968314?answerId=7968314021#7968314021) suggests some are related to Apple Store identifiers particularly when a user's Apple Store ID differs from their iCloud ID. When I browse Mojave's Diretory Uility.app's Directory Editor for my user account the RecordName keyvalue pair shows both my macOS name and a string of the form com.apple.idms.appleid.prd....

I think as Apple has integrated macOS with their Cloud services and legacy problems with user identifiers they've extended the use of Users & Groups Aliases to bind together identifiers on different services.

In 2019 we should probably forget that "Advanced Options" exists at all (except perhaps for changing one's shell)
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for an easy way to quickly go through a bunch of files, mostly videos and images and sort them in a set of standard folders.
Currently I open the videos/images in VLC see what they're about and drag/drop 'em into folders. This is incredibly tedious work, but I really should get it done already. Annoying bits are in large part due to the dragging and dropping, also because the alphabetical sort order in the Finder and VLC is different and the file names get replaced by video titles in the VLC playlist etc.

Ideally I would want an application that show me the content (ideally skipping x% into the video to skip intros etc) and lets me sort it with a single key (press 1 and it goes into folder x, press 2 etc.) or click the folder and the file is moved into it, ignoring all filename-already-exists nonsense (just rename it and be quiet). Using drag/drop is just to annoying, slow and error prone.

To be clear, I'm not looking for automated sorting, I can't use it because I want to sort on video/image content.

I was thinking about writing an applescript for this but I wanted to know if anyone knew of existing software to do this. Searching for ways to sort items all result in automated sorting based on file properties.

Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: I thought I might like to have something like this too, so I threw together [an app](https://www.dropbox.com/s/pnzx2mof4nsniaf/VidSort.app.zip?dl=1) that does this. Feel free to try it out! Warning though: I have one video where the skip value doesn't work. I'm not sure why it only has an issue with this one video... Just a heads up. It works 99% of the time though!

Push 1 to place the video or image being shown in sort folder 1, and 2 to place it in sort folder 2. Also make sure to select a folder source with the content! This should be able to play anything that VLC can play, which is to say, pretty much everything. I don't have access to a code signing certificate at the moment, so you'll have to right click on the application from within the Finder and click "Open". After that you'll be good to go!
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Just a suggestion,

VLC Media Player also supports showing picture and video files as well, so maybe `select all` and open them up in VLC media player?

Then open the playlist on VLC `Command + Alt + P` and click on `Title` to sort alphabetically

Then do the same on Finder, use `View > as list` or `Command + 1` and click on `Name`

Then show the Finder (with all your files) and VLC side by side and go through the files on VLC.
(`N` for next, `P` for previous file on VLC)

Drag and drop as you need.
Upvotes: 0


<issue_start>username_0: I have a Mac 10.5.8, Leopard, gray surrounding, and cannot get on skype and I cannot create a customized header with iPhoto for Twitter. I'm not a tech person but am good with apps. How do you know you have the system requirements to upgrade to 9 and will that allow me to get skype, etc.

iMac Model Identifier: iMac8,1 Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo Processor Speed: 2.4 GHz Number Of Processors: 1 Total Number Of Cores: 2 L2 Cache: 6 MB Memory: 2 GB<issue_comment>username_1: Your iMac (8,1) can be updated to the latest version of OS X (currently 10.10.3).

However, since you have Leopard (10.5), you will need Snow Leopard (10.6) in order to update to any newer OS X version over the internet.

[You can buy Snow Leopard from Apple for $20 here](http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573Z/A/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: According to Microsoft (that now owns Skype)

>
> Skype no longer supports Mac OSX 10.5 (Leopard) and below.
>
>
>

So you have to upgrade your OS X to next version or higher.

For OS X 10.6–10.8 use Skype for Mac 6.15

For latest Skype you need minimum OS X Mavericks or latest Yosemite.

Going above 10.6 (Snow Leopard) it is highly recommended to do memory upgrade from now 2 GB to 4 GB.

Memory upgrade is not big challenge and it can be done by you.

It does involves opening the computer and replacing hardware.

My recommendation would be you go for the [Snow Leopard](http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573Z/A/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard) (without memory upgrade) and give it a test run with Skype version downloaded from here:

<http://download.skype.com/macosx/Skype_6.15.0.335.dmg>

What do you [need and how to upgrade to Snow Leopard.](https://www.apple.com/support/snowleopard/installation/)

Once you are on Snow Leopard you can easily (for free) upgrade to Yosemite if you want to, and also get latest Skype, but it might be slow if you do not upgrade memory.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You could try to find an old version of skype from <http://www.oldapps.com/mac/skype.php> that might meet your needs. Failing an (older) upgrade solves your issue, you best bet is to upgrade to you computer as mentioned in other answers. I would like to add your money will be better spent on a SSD than ram in terms of cost over performance, but upgrading both ram and your hard drive is the best option.
Upvotes: -1


<issue_start>username_0: I have a Macbook Pro and when I click with the trackpad, it will occasionally act like a double click. This happens whether I physically click the trackpad or if I just do a tap to click. I have tried changing the double click speed to no avail. It might be a hardware issue, but the fact that it happens when I tap to click leads me to believe it is at least not a mechanical issue (still possible an electronics/cable issue with the trackpad). I have also reset the NVRAM and the SMC (not sure why it would be an issue with those but I'm attempting everything). I'm on Yosemite.<issue_comment>username_1: Try disabling tap to click in the trackpad settings. If you're MacBook has the new vibrating force touch trackpad you could try to disable the force click and haptic feedback. Otherwise it may be a hardware issue.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I am having the same issue, and for now the only solution I found was to use a usb mouse. I think the problem began with 10.10.4, but I am not sure. It only happens to me with Chrome and Steam mostly.
Upvotes: -1