Produced by Sue Asscher DISCOVERIES IN AUSTRALIA; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE COASTS AND RIVERS EXPLORED AND SURVEYED DURING THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. BEAGLE, IN THE YEARS 1837-38-39-40-41-42-43. BY COMMAND OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. ALSO A NARRATIVE OF CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY'S VISITS TO THE ISLANDS IN THE ARAFURA SEA. BY J. LORT STOKES, COMMANDER, R.N. VOLUME 2. LONDON: T. AND W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. 1846. CONTENTS OF VOLUME 2. CHAPTER 2.1. Leave Port Essington. Clarence Strait. Hope Inlet. Shoal Bay. Ian for Observations. Explore a new Opening. Talc Head. Port Darwin. Continue Exploration. Mosquitoes and Sandflies. Nature of the Country. Its parched appearance. Large ant's nest. Return to Shoal Bay. Visit from the Natives. Remarks. Their teeth perfect. Rite of Circumcision. Observations on the Migrations of the Natives. Theory of an Inland Sea. Central Desert. Salt water drunk by Natives. Modes of procuring water. Survey the harbour. Natives on a raft. Anecdote. Bynoe Harbour. Well. Brilliant Meteors. Natives on Point Emery. Their surprise at the well. Importance of water. Anecdote. Languages of Australia. Specimens. Remarks. Leave Port Darwin. Tides. Squall. Visit Port Patterson. Leave. Examine opening to the south-west. Table Hill. McAdam Range. Adventure with an Alligator. Exploring party. Discovery of the Victoria. Ascend the river. Appearance of the Country. Fitzmaurice River. Indian Hill. The Beagle taken up the river. CHAPTER 2.2. Exploration of the Victoria. First appearance of Sea Range. Curiosity Peak. Appearance of Country from. Whirlwind Plains. Encounter with an Alligator. His capture and description. Cross Whirlwind Plains. White and black ducks. Kangaroos. Enter hilly country. Meet the boats. Thunderstorm. Carry boats over shoals. New birds. Reach Hopeless. Progress of boats arrested. Reconnoitre the river. Prospect from View Hill. Preparation for pedestrian excursion. Leave Reach Hopeless to explore the upper part of the river. Native village. Squall. Mussel Bend. Meet Natives. Successful fishing. Party distressed. Thirsty Flat. Tortoise Reach. Singular appearance of the ranges. Effect of the great heat. One man knocked up. Approach of natives. Preparation for defence. Appearance of the natives. Move further up the river. Emu Plains. Select position for night quarters. Upward course of the Victoria. Commence return. Kangaroo shot. Wickham Heights. New Tortoise. Lucky Valley. Race was with a native. Meet his tribe. They make off. Hard day's work. Quarters for the night. Return to Reach Hopeless. CHAPTER 2.3. VICTORIA RIVER. Proceed down the river from Reach Hopeless. Meet watering party. One of the men deserts. Kangaroo shooting. The writer left to complete survey of river. Silk cotton-tree. Fertility of Whirlwind Plains. Attempt of one of the crew to jump overboard. Reach the Ship. Suffer from sore eyes. Lieutenant Emery finds water. Geological specimens. Bird's Playhouse. Tides. Strange weather. Range of Barometer. Accounted for by proximity of Port Essington. Hurricane. Effects of the latter. Dreary country behind Water Valley. Fruitless attempt to weigh ship's anchors. Obliged to slip from both of them. Proceed down the river. Complete survey of Main Channel. Visit south Entrance Point of river. Discover a number of dead turtles. Cross over to Point Pearce. Mr. Bynoe shoots a new finch. The Author speared. Pursued by natives. Escape. Flight of natives. Armed party pursue them. Night of suffering. General description of the Victoria. Gouty-stem tree and fruit. CHAPTER 2.4. VICTORIA RIVER TO SWAN RIVER. Leave Point Pearce. Error in position of Cape Rulhieres. Obtain soundings on supposed Sahul Shoal. Discover a shoal patch on it. Ascertain extent of bank of soundings off the Australian shore. Strange winds in Monsoon. See Scott's Reef. Discover error in its position. Make Depuch Island. Prevalence of westerly winds near it. Sperm whales. Tedious passage. Death and burial of the ship's cook. Anecdotes of his life. Good landfall. Arrival at Swan River. Find Colony improved. Hospitality of Colonists. Lieutenant Roe's account of his rescuing Captain Grey's party. Burial of Mr. Smith. Hurricane at Shark's Bay. Observations on dry appearance of Upper Swan. Unsuccessful cruise of Champion. Visit Rottnest. Fix on a hill for the site of a Lighthouse. Aboriginal convicts. Protectors of natives. American whalers. Miago. Trees of Western Australia. On the safety of Gage Roads. CHAPTER 2.5. Sail from Swan River. Search for the supposed Turtle-dove Shoal. Approach to Houtman's Abrolhos. Find an anchorage. View of the Lagoon. Guano. Remnants of the wreck of the Batavia. Pelsart Group. Visit the Main. Geelvink Channel. Enter Champion Bay. Appearance of the Country. Striking resemblance of various portions of the coast of Australia. Leave Champion Bay. Coast to the northward. Resume our examination of the Abrolhos. Easter Group. Good Friday Harbour. Lizards on Rat Island. Coral formation. Snapper Bank. Zeewyk Passage. Discoveries on Gun Island. The Mangrove Islets. Singular Sunset. Heavy gale. Wallaby Islands. Flag Hill. Slaughter Point. Observations of Mr. Bynoe on the Marsupiata. General character of the reefs. Tidal observations. Visit North Island. Leave Houtman's Abrolhos. General observations. Proceed to Depuch Island. Drawings on the rocks. Native youth. New bird and kangaroo. Effects of Mirage. Examine coast to the Turtle Isles. Geographe Shoals. Number of turtles. Bedout Island. Scott's Reef. Approach to Timor. Pulo Douw. Scene on entering Coepang Bay. Surprise of Swan River native. Visit to the Resident. His stories. Fort Concordia. Second visit to the Resident. The Timorees. Arrive at Pritie. Description of the country. Muster of the shooting party. Success of the excursion. The Javanese Commandant. Character of the Timorees. Dutch settlement in New Guinea. Leave Coepang. Island of Rottee. Tykal Inlet. Inhabitants of Polo Douw. CHAPTER 2.6. Sail from Rottee. Search for shoal. Dampier's Archipelago. Examination of coast. Strange weather. Natives. Passage between Delambre and Huiy Islands. Proceed to Montebello Isles. Description of them. Barrow's Island. Tryal Rocks. New kangaroo. Abundance of turtle. New wallaby. Sail for Swan River. Find Ritchie's Reef. Islands between Barrow's and North-West Cape. Table of soundings. Swan River Native. Anchor under Rottnest. Vocabulary. Erect beacons. Bad weather. Habits of a native dog. Geological observations. Sail from Swan River. Error in position of Cape Naturaliste. King George's Sound. Appearance of Bald Head. Princess Royal Harbour. Origin of settlement. Town of Albany. Salubrity of climate. Excursion into interior. Course a kangaroo. Pitfalls. Herds of kangaroos. Rich country. The Hay River. Return to Albany. Departure for South Australia. Discover an Island. Death of a seaman. Position of Neptune Isles. Kangaroo, Althorp and Quoin Islands. Holdfast Road. Adelaide. Description of country. Governor Gawler's policy. Visit the Port. Mr. Eyre's expedition. Hardships of Overlanders. Cannibalism. Meet Captain Sturt. Native schools. System of education. Sail for Sydney. Squalls. Error in coast. Bass Strait. Arrive at Sydney. CHAPTER 2.7. Land Sales. Unsettled boundaries. New Zealand. Hunter River. Midnight alarm. Ludicrous scene. Changes in Officers of ship. Leave Sydney. Port Stephens. Corrobory. Gale at Cape Upstart. Magnetical Island. Halifax Bay. Astonish a Native. Description of country. Correct chart. Restoration Island. Picturesque arrival. Interview with the Natives from Torres Strait. Their weapons. Shoal near Endeavour River. Discover good passage through Endeavour Strait. Booby Island. New birds. The Painted Quail. CHAPTER 2.8. GULF OF CARPENTARIA. Leave Booby Island. Eastern shore of Gulf. Van Diemen's Inlet. Exploration of. Party of Natives. Level country. Tides. Visit Bountiful Islands. Description of them. Sail for Sweers Island. Investigator Road. Natives. Locusts. Record of the Investigator's visit. Dig a well. Boats explore island and coast to the westward. Sweers and Bentinck Islands. Tides. Take ship over to the main. Another boat expedition leaves. Ship proceeds to the head of the Gulf. Discovery and exploration of Disaster Inlet. Narrow escape. Description of Interior. Wild Fowl. Explore coast to the eastward. Inlets. Discover the Flinders. The Cuckoo. Ascent of the river. Night scene. Burial tree. Remarks. Return to the ship. Exploration of south-western part of Gulf. Large inlets discovered. CHAPTER 2.9. GULF OF CARPENTARIA. Boat expedition. Explore an opening. Discovery of the Albert. Natives. Picturesque Scenery. Hope Reach. Birds and Fishes. Upper Branch. Beauty of the Landscape. Land excursion. The Plains of Promise. Halt the party and proceed alone. Description of the country. Return down the Albert. Mouth of River. Arrive at Van Diemen's Inlet. Find Mr. Fitzmaurice severely wounded. General result of the survey of the Gulf. Winds and Temperature. Booby Island. Endeavour Strait. Reach Port Essington. CHAPTER 2.10. INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. Leave Port Essington. Dobbo Island. Visit from the Schoolmaster. Church. Trade of the Arrou Islands. Their productions. Visit from Natives. The Banda Group. Penal Settlement. Adventures of a Javanese. Captain de Stuers. Native dance and sports. Nutmeg Plantations. Mode of preserving the fruit. Amboyna. Visit a natural grotto. Sail from Amboyna. Island of Kissa. Village of Wauriti. Missionary establishment. Serwatty Group. Return to Port Essington. CHAPTER 2.11. PORT ESSINGTON AND THE NORTH-WEST COAST. Appearance of Settlement. Effects of climate. Native mother. Trade in teeth. Macassar Proas. Lieutenant Vallack visits the Alligator Rivers. Interview with Natives. Prospects of Port Essington. Lieutenant Stewart's Route. Climate. Remarks of Mr. Bynoe. Harbour of refuge. Sail from Port Essington. Sahul Shoal. Arrive at Coepang. Timorees. Sail for North-west Coast. Strong winds. Cape Bossut. Exploration of North-west Coast. View of Interior. Birds. Solitary Island. Visit the Shore. Amphinome Shoals. Bedout Island. Breaker Inlet. Exmouth Gulf. Arrive at Swan River. CHAPTER 2.12. Reported Harbour. Set out for Australind. The Grass-tree. Correspondence with Mr. Clifton, etc. Sail from Gage Road. Examination of coast. Reach Champion Bay. Visit Mount Fairfax and Wizard Peak. Arid nature of country. Want of water. Native Grave. The Greenough river. Natives. Leave Champion Bay. Koombanah Bay. Naturaliste Reef. Reach South Australia. Port Adelaide. Proposed Railroad. Visit Mount Barker. Encounter Bay. Native fishing. Return to Adelaide. Sail from South Australia. Portland Bay. Squatters. Tour in the interior. Fertile country. View from the Sugarloaf. Visit Cape Bridgewater. Sail for Hobart. Liberality of Sir John Franklin. Atmospheric changes. Arrive at Sydney. CHAPTER 2.13. Exploration of Interior. Twofold Bay. Survey of Bass Strait. Dangerous situation of the Beagle. Kent and Hogan Groups. Gipps Land. Wilson's Promontory. The Tamar. Eastern entrance of Strait. Steam communication between India and Australia. New Guinea. Straitsmen. North coast of Tasmania. Aborigines. Port Phillip. Directions for ships passing King Island. Complete survey of Bass Strait. Farewell to Sydney. Moreton Bay. The Comet. State of Tasmania, or Van Diemen's Land. Lighthouses in Bass Strait. CHAPTER 2.14. AUSTRALIA TO ENGLAND. Sail from Tasmania. The South-west Cape. Monument to Flinders. Rottnest Island. Lighthouse. Penal Establishment. Longitude of Fremantle. Final departure from Western Australia. Rodrigue Island. Effects of a hurricane at Mauritius. The crew and passengers of a foundered vessel saved. Bourbon. Madagascar. Simon's Bay. Deep sea soundings. Arrival in England. Take leave of the Beagle. The Surveying service. ... APPENDIX. WINDS AND WEATHER ON THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN COASTS OF AUSTRALIA. BY COMMANDER J.C. WICKHAM, R.N. LIST OF CHARTS. VOLUME 2. VICTORIA RIVER. GULF OF CARPENTARIA. ALBERT RIVER. PART OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA. PORT ADELAIDE AND HOLDFAST BAY. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME 2. MESSRS. FITZMAURICE AND KEYS DANCING FOR THEIR LIVES. L.R. Fitzmaurice, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. FIRST APPEARANCE OF SEA RANGE. HEAD AND FEET OF ALLIGATOR. KILLING AN ALLIGATOR, VICTORIA RIVER. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. WICKHAM HEIGHTS FROM TORTOISE REACH. CAPTAIN STOKES SPEARED AT POINT PEARCE. C. Martens, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. GOUTY-STEM TREE. FRUIT OF GOUTY-STEM TREE. Section of fruit, showing the manner in which the seeds are disposed. VIEWS OF MORESBY'S RANGE, SEA RANGE, AND CAPE BEDFORD. Moresby's Range, West Coast, latitude 28 degrees 50 minutes South. Sea Range, Victoria River, North-west Coast, latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes South. Cape Bedford, North-east Coast, latitude 15 degrees 10 minutes South. ANCIENT DUTCH GUN. Dutch Four-pounder, with moveable chamber. NATIVE DRAWINGS. Lithographic impression of the copies made by Captain Wickham of the native drawings on Depuch Island. They have already appeared in the Royal Geographical Journal Volume 12. The following list will convey to the reader what the drawings are intended to represent. 1. A goose or duck. 2. A bird; probably the leipoa. 6. A beetle. 11. A fish over a quarter-moon; which has been considered to have some reference to fishing by moonlight. 61. A native dog. 16. A native, armed with spear and wommera, or throwing stick, probably relating his adventures, which is usually done by song, and accompanied with great action and flourishing of weapons, particularly when boasting of his prowess. 20. A duck and a gull. 34. A corrobory, or native dance. 65. A crab. 30. A native in a hut, with portion of the matting with which they cover their habitations. 67. A kangaroo. 71. Appears to be a bird of prey, having seized upon a kangaroo-rat. 32. Shark and pilot-fish. COEPANG FROM THE ANCHORAGE. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. PASSING BETWEEN BALD HEAD AND VANCOUVER REEF. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. ENTRANCE OF VAN DIEMEN'S INLET. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. INTERESTING TREE. BURIAL REACH, FLINDERS RIVER. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. UPWARD VIEW OF HOPE REACH, ALBERT RIVER. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. FIRST VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF PROMISE, ALBERT RIVER. G. Gore, del. LAST VIEW OF THE PLAINS OF PROMISE, ALBERT RIVER. G. Gore, del. London, Published by T. & W. Boone, 1846. APPROACH TO PORTLAND BAY. Cape Nelson, Cape Grant, Lawrence Isles East-North-East nine miles. DANGEROUS SITUATION OF BEAGLE. A.J. Mason Sc. DEVIL'S TOWER. 350 feet high, West, two miles. KILLING A KANGAROO. A.J. Mason Sc. HUMMOCK ISLAND. Highest part 400 feet, bearing South-East 20 miles. ... JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY. CHAPTER 2.1. Leave Port Essington. Clarence Strait. Hope Inlet. Shoal Bay. Land for Observations. Explore a new Opening. Talc Head. Port Darwin. Continue Exploration. Mosquitoes and Sandflies. Nature of the Country. Its parched appearance. Large ant's nest. Return to Shoal Bay. Visit from the Natives. Remarks. Their teeth perfect. Rite of Circumcision. Observations on the Migrations of the Natives. Theory of an Inland Sea. Central Desert. Salt water drunk by Natives. Modes of procuring water. Survey the harbour. Natives on a raft. Anecdote. Bynoe Harbour. Well. Brilliant Meteors. Natives on Point Emery. Their surprise at the well. Importance of water. Anecdote. Languages of Australia. Specimens. Remarks. Leave Port Darwin. Tides. Squall. Visit Port Patterson. Leave. Examine opening to the south-west. Table Hill. McAdam Range. Adventure with an Alligator. Exploring party. Discovery of the Victoria. Ascend the river. Appearance of the Country. Fitzmaurice River. Indian Hill. The Beagle taken up the river. LEAVE PORT ESSINGTON. Early on the morning of the 4th of September, 1839, the Beagle was once more slipping out of Port Essington before a light land wind. We had taken a hearty farewell of our friends at Victoria, in whose prosperity we felt all the interest that is due to those who pioneer the way for others in the formation of a new settlement. No doubt the hope that our discoveries might open a new field for British enterprise, and contribute to extend still more widely the blessings of civilization, increased the sympathy we felt for the young colony at Victoria. There is always a feeling of pride and pleasure engendered by the thought that we are in any way instrumental to the extension of man's influence over the world which has been given him to subdue. In the present instance, the success of our last cruise and the state of preparation in which we were now in for a longer one, caused us to take our departure from Port Essington in far higher spirits than on the former occasion. PASS THROUGH CLARENCE STRAIT. We again shaped our course for Clarence Strait, the western entrance of which was still unexamined. The wind, however, being light, we passed the night in Popham Bay; and on leaving next morning, had only six fathoms in some tide ripplings nearly two miles off its south point, Cape Don. We passed along the south side of Melville Island, where a large fire was still burning. Early in the evening we anchored in seven fathoms, to wait for a boat that had been sent to examine a shoal bay on the North-West side of Cape Keith. Green Ant Cliffs bore South-West two miles. September 7. Weighing at daylight we hauled up south, into the middle of the channel, crossing a ridge of 5 1/2 fathoms; Ant Cliffs bearing West-South-West five miles, and three or four from the shore. This ridge appears to be thrown up at the extremity of the flats fronting the shore. On deepening the water to 10 and 12 fathoms, the course was changed to West 1/2 South, passing midway between North Vernon Isle and Cape Gambier, where the width of the channel is seven miles, though the whole of it is not available for the purposes of navigation, a long detached reef lying three miles from the Cape, and a small one two miles from the North Vernon Isle.* The tide hurried the Beagle past between these reefs with some rapidity, the soundings at the time being 19 fathoms. (*Footnote. These isles, three in number, lying quite in the centre of the western entrance of the Strait, are fringed with extensive coral reefs. There are, however, deep passages between them.) Having cleared Clarence Strait, and found it to be perfectly navigable with common precaution (which in a slight degree enhanced the value of the discovery of the Adelaide) our course was directed for a bay to the southward, which Captain King had not examined. A very refreshing cool north-westerly seabreeze* had just succeeded a short calm. Passing four miles from the western extremity of the Vernon Isles, we had irregular soundings of ten and seven fathoms. The ripplings and discoloured water are a warning that they should be approached with caution on this side. (*Footnote. The seabreeze prevailing from the westward through Clarence Strait, the passage to Port Essington from the westward, during the easterly monsoon, might be more easily made by passing through it, instead of working along the north side of Melville Island.) The mouth of a considerable inlet came in sight at the head of a bay as we advanced towards it, steering South by East. This opening began to appear of consequence as we drew near, although the singularly gradual decrease in the soundings, on a sandy bottom materially diminished the probability of its being the mouth of a river. Still, when we anchored as near as we could approach, there remained a hope of its being so. HOPE INLET. SHOAL BAY. September 8. Early in the morning Mr. Forsyth and myself started to explore the opening. We soon discovered that it was nothing more than a shallow creek at low-water. The tide here rising twenty feet, gave it the important appearance it had yesterday evening. A tall clump of naked trees was conspicuous at the east entrance point, towering above the insipid mangrove shore. We gave it the name of Hope Inlet, to commemorate the feelings it excited on its first discovery. From the south point of Clarence Strait it is distant eleven miles, and the bay in which it lies, from the shallow-water at the head of it, was called Shoal Bay. The boat being provisioned for four days, we pushed on to explore another opening above fifteen miles to the westward. The seabreeze setting in early, we did not reach it till after dark, when we landed for observations at a cliffy projection near the eastern entrance point: this we found to be composed of a kind of pipeclay, mixed with calcareous matter. We had some difficulty in landing, and then in scrambling up the cliffs by the light of a lantern. If any of the watchful natives happened at the time to be on the lookout, they must have stood fixed with astonishment at beholding such strange persons, who at such a time of night, with no ostensible object were visiting their shores. EXPLORE A NEW OPENING. September 9. Before the veil of darkness was quite removed, we could faintly distinguish the mouth of the opening; and the sight at daylight was most cheering. A wide bay appearing between two white cliffy heads, and stretching away within to a great distance, presented itself to our view. Far to the southward, between the heads, rose a small table-topped hill. As we pulled in towards the eastern entrance point, the river-like appearance began to wear off, more land making its appearance towards the head of the opening. On reaching this point Mr. Forsyth and myself climbed up the cliff, whilst the breakfast was cooking. From the summit we had a good view of the bay, and were delighted to find large openings in the south-east and south-west corners of it. The table hill before mentioned, stood on the point between them. To see the eastern part of it, however, it was necessary to cross to the opposite point, where some talc slate, pieces of which measured four inches in length, was found imbedded in quartz. The point was called in consequence, Talc Head. PORT DARWIN. The other rocks near it were of a fine-grained sandstone: a new feature in the geology of this part of the continent, which afforded us an appropriate opportunity of convincing an old shipmate and friend, that he still lived in our memory; and we accordingly named this sheet of water Port Darwin. A few small bamboos grew on this head; the other trees were chiefly white gums. I climbed to the top of one of them, and obtained thence a view of another opening in the eastern part of the harbour. It now being low-water, an extensive shoal was discovered, reaching from abreast of Talc Head to the point separating the South-East and South-West openings, an extent of nearly five miles. This somewhat diminished the value of our discovery, as it limited the capabilities of the bay as a harbour. We now proceeded to explore the north-eastern and largest opening, distant six miles from our station. A large islet and a reef left the entrance only a mile wide. Expanding again, it formed two arms, one running south, the other East-South-East, between small groups of singular isolated haycock-shaped hills, about 250 feet high. Following the latter, being the largest, we found that it soon curved round, taking a southerly direction. A bank free from mangroves occurring in this bend, we availed ourselves of it, as the day was closing in, to secure some early stars for latitude and longitude. The intense pleasure afforded by traversing water that had never before been divided by any keel, in some measure compensated us for the annoyance from the mosquitoes and sandflies, that took the opportunity of assailing us while in the defenceless state of quiet necessary in making observations. Pushing out into the middle of the stream, and each wielding a beater, our tiny enemies were soon shaken off, and borne back to the shore by a refreshing North-West breeze. We found it necessary to keep a sharp lookout here for the alligators, as they swarmed in dangerous numbers. The scarcity of fish, and the shallowness of the water did not hold out much hope that the arm we were tracing would prove of great extent; still many speculations were hazarded on the termination of it. The temperature in the night was down to 78 degrees, and the dew sufficiently heavy to wet the boat's awning through. CONTINUE EXPLORATION. Anxious to know how far this piece of water was to carry us into the untrodden wilds of Australia, we moved off with the first streak of dawn. Ten miles in a South by East direction brought us to where the width and depth was not sufficient to induce us to proceed further. Besides, as we were then only fifteen miles from a bend of the upper part of the Adelaide, which must receive the drainage of all that part of the country, it seemed improbable that any other large river existed in the neighbourhood. Six miles from our furthest, which was about thirty miles from the entrance, we passed a small island. The banks on either side of the inlet were, as usual, a thick grove of mangroves, except in one spot, a mile lower down, where we landed on our return for observations. This we found to be a low cliffy projection of slate formation, whilst scattered over the face of the few miles of country, which we are able to explore, were small bits of quartz; large blocks also of which protruded occasionally through a light kind of mould. APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. The country was a most thirsty-looking level, the low brushwood on which cracked and snapped as we walked through it, with a brittle dryness that testified how perfectly parched-up was everything. A single spark would instantly have wrapped the whole face of the country in one sheet of fire. Slight blasts of heated withering air, as if from an oven, would occasionally strike the face as we walked along; sometimes they were loaded with those peculiar and most agreeable odours that arise from different kinds of gums. Still the white eucalyptus and the palm, wore in comparison with the other vegetation, an extraordinary green appearance, derived probably from the nightly copious falls of dew, which is the only moisture this part of the continent receives during the present season. The birds we observed were common to other parts of the continent, being a few screaming cockatoos, parrots, and quails, and near the water a small white egret. There was nothing of interest to recall our memories to this first visit to a new part of Australia, save a very large ant's nest, measuring twenty feet in height. This object is always the first that presents itself whenever my thoughts wander to that locality. As the boat was not provisioned for the time it would take to explore all the openings we had discovered, and as the capabilities of Port Darwin were sufficiently great to require the presence of the ship, I determined on returning immediately to Shoal Bay. VISIT FROM THE NATIVES. During the time we were absent, some of our people who had been on shore, received a visit from a party of natives, who evinced the most friendly disposition. This verifies what I have before observed, as to the remarkable differences of character that exist between many Australian tribes, though living in the immediate neighbourhood of each other; for, it will be remembered, that at no great distance we had experienced a very different reception. Those people amounted in number, with their families, to twenty-seven, and came down to our party without any symptoms of hesitation. Both men and women were finer than those we had seen in Adam Bay. The tallest male measured five feet eleven, which is three inches less than a native Flinders measured in the Gulf of Carpentaria. The teeth of these people were ALL PERFECT, an additional proof that the ceremony of knocking them out, like others practised in Australia, is very partially diffused. The rite of circumcision, for instance, is only performed at King's Sound, on the west side of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and near the head of the Australian bight on the south. Mr. Eyre, who discovered the existence of the rite on the last-mentioned part of the continent, infers that the natives of the places I have mentioned must have had some communication with each other through the interior; but it is possible that at a distant period of time, circumcision may have been very generally practised, and that having become gradually disused, the custom is now only preserved at two or three points, widely separated from each other. I do not advance this as a theory, but simply as a suggestion, as there is some difficulty in supposing communication to have taken place across the continent. MIGRATION OF THE NATIVES. Some light may be thrown on the migration of the aboriginal inhabitants of Australia, by tracing the parts of the coast on which canoes are in use. It has already been mentioned, that we had not seen any westward of Clarence Strait, neither were they in use in the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria, nor on the south coast.* By the assistance of these and similar facts, we may hereafter be enabled to discover the exact direction in which the streams of population have flowed over the continent. But I am not prepared to agree entirely with Mr. Eyre when he concludes, as I have stated, from the fact of the rite of circumcision having been found on the south and north-west coasts, and on the Gulf of Carpentaria, that there exists any peculiar connection between the tribes inhabiting those several points. This enterprising traveller moreover thinks that the idea he has started goes far towards refuting the theory of an inland sea, another presumption against which he maintains to be the hot winds that blow from the interior. (*Footnote. An inference may be drawn from the parts of the shore on which canoes are in use, to show that the migrations of the natives, so far southwards, have been along the coast. The raft they use is precisely the same in make and size on the whole extent of the North-west coast.) THEORY OF AN INLAND SEA. I confess that the theory of an inland sea has long since vanished from my mind, though I base my opinion on reasons different from those of Mr. Eyre. The intercourse between natives of opposite sides of the continent (though it is certainly possible) has never been established, and while it remains hypothetical, cannot be adduced to overthrow another hypothesis. The existence of hot winds also blowing from the interior is not conclusive, as we had, when in the Gulf of Carpentaria, very cold winds coming from the same direction. We know, however, that the temperature of winds depends much on the nature of the soil over which they sweep, for instance, in a cold clayey soil, the radiation of heat is very rapid. Before quitting this subject it may be as well to mention that my own impression, which the most recent information bears out, is that instead of an inland sea, there is in the centre of Australia a vast desert, the head of which, near Lake Torrens, is not more than three hundred feet above the level of the sea. The coast being surrounded by hilly ranges, the great falls of rain that must occasionally occur in the interior, may convert a vast extent of the central and lowest portion, towards the north side of the continent, into a great morass, or lake, which, from the northerly dip, must discharge its waters slowly into the Gulf of Carpentaria, without possessing sufficient stability to mark either its bed or boundaries. FRIENDLY NATIVES. To return to the party of natives which has given rise to this digression. They had clearly never seen a white person before; for they stepped up to one man of fair complexion, who had his trousers turned up over his knees, and began rubbing his skin to see whether it was painted. They came fearlessly to our party, as they were collecting shells at the extremity of a long flat. One of the officers, who happened to be very thirsty, placed such confidence in their friendly manner, that he allowed them to conduct him alone to a small well near the beach, but the water was too salt to be drunk. The force of habit is astonishing: natives drink this brackish fluid and find it very refreshing. The small quantity that suffices them is also surprising, though they will drink enormously when they can get it. MODES OF PROCURING WATER. Their mode of procuring this necessary element is singular, and they exhibit in this particular much ingenuity and great fertility of resources. They are never harassed with the idea of being without any; which not only distresses but adds to the horror of thirst with the European explorer, who has not experienced the constant watchfulness of Providence, and does not know that he may collect from the leaves, with a sponge, on some mornings, as much as a pint of water. This has, however, been done, even on the south coast, where the dews are not so copious as on the north-west. The natives themselves are never at a loss for that indeed precious article, water. They sometimes procure it by digging up the lateral roots of the small gumtree, a dusty and fatiguing operation: they break them off in short bits, and set them up to drain into a piece of bark or a large shell. By tapping also the knotty excrescences of trees they find the fluid, which they suck out. Many of these modes of obtaining water are of course known to experienced bushmen, like Mr. Eyre, whose deeply interesting narrative of his hardships and perils has already enlisted the sympathy of the public. September 12. We moved the ship into Port Darwin, anchoring just within the eastern cliffy head which, to commemorate Lieutenant Emery's success in finding water by digging, we named after him. SURVEY OF THE HARBOUR. All the surveying force was now put in instant requisition; Captain Wickham went to examine an opening in the coast mentioned by Captain King, lying about twelve miles further to the westward, whilst the other boats explored the openings at the head of the harbour. That on the eastern part, Mr. Fitzmaurice traced ten miles in a south-easterly direction, being the greatest distance it was navigable for a boat. The remaining branch in the large opening, in the south-eastern corner of the harbour, Mr. Forsyth and myself explored South-South-East three miles, and South-South-West five more, the extent to which it was possible to advance. Beyond, it was strewed with large blocks of granite; a fact, for which we were in some degree prepared, as in the vicinity of the Adelaide River we had proof of the primary formation of this part of the continent. As the boat lay scarcely afloat between two of these lumps of rock, numbers of white ibises, with black necks, kept flying over us from the southward, indicating that a swamp lay in that direction. We also disturbed several alligators, who slid off quietly into the water at our approach. There was no variety in the shores of this inlet, composed like all the others, of an impenetrable network of mangroves. A ridge of the same conical-shaped low hills before alluded to, as existing in this neighbourhood, rose upon our right as we came up, and bore from our furthest North by West two miles; from the highest part up the inlet in the south-west corner, east two miles. The latter we found very tortuous, extending in a general direction south nine miles. No events occurred worthy of any remark during our examination, except one of a trifling character: the mosquitoes taking advantage of the calm, between the high mangroves on the banks, attacked us most cruelly, a circumstance we mention as trifling, as far as the reader is concerned, but of great moment to us. After completing the survey of the southern and western portion of this harbour, we returned to the ship, where soon afterwards Captain Wickham also arrived, having found Patterson Bay to be a good port. It trended in south ten miles, and East-South-East the same distance, forming quite an inner haven, which was named after Mr. Bynoe. NATIVES ON A RAFT. At the turning leading from the outer to the inner harbour they came suddenly in view of a raft making across, a distance of three miles, on which were two women with several children, whilst four or five men were swimming alongside, towing it and supporting themselves by means of a log of wood across their chests. On perceiving the boat they instantly struck out for the land leaving the women on the raft. For some time the latter kept their position, waiting until the boat got quite near, when they gave utterance to a dreadful yell, and assuming at the same time a most demoniacal aspect, plunged into the water as if about to abandon the children to their fate. MATERNAL AFFECTION AND FEAR. Not so, however; despite the dreadful fear they appeared to entertain of the white man, maternal affection was strong within them, and risking all to save their offspring, they began to tow the raft with all their strength towards the shore. This devotion on the part of the women to their little ones, was in strong contrast with the utter want of feeling shown by the men towards both mothers and children. Captain Wickham now, no doubt to their extreme consternation, pulled after the men, and drove them back to the raft. Some dived and tried thus to escape the boat, while others grinned ferociously, and appeared to hope, by dint of hideous grimaces--such as are only suggested even to a savage by the last stage of fear--to terrify the white men from approaching. At length, however, they were all driven back to the raft, which was then towed across the harbour for them; a measure which they only were able to approve of when they had landed, and fear had quite subsided. Doubtless, the forbearance of our party surprised them, for from their terrified looks and manner, when swimming with all their strength from the raft, they must have apprehended a fate at least as terrible as that of being eaten. The raft itself was quite a rude affair, being formed of small bundles of wood lashed together, without any shape or form, quite different from any we had seen before. Bynoe Harbour was found to terminate in three deep creeks branching off between North-East and South-East, the largest of which led into fresh water, but in small detached pools, which are separated from the salt, by a shelf of red porous sandstone, and which two miles further became entirely lost in the rocks. The green appearance of the gumtrees and an occasional clump of palms, which had pleasingly succeeded the mangroves, as they advanced, assured Captain Wickham that there was fresh water near. Probably, if they had carried their researches further, they would have found these signs reappear again, doubtless proceeding from a swamp, the presence of which the reader will recollect I inferred from seeing the ibis flocking from the south-west up the south inlet in Port Darwin; the west inlet of which is only one mile distant from the north-east creek in the head of Bynoe Harbour. Doubtless when the country is not in its present parched and thirsty state, all these are fresh at their heads. WELL AT PORT DARWIN. The slow progress made in watering, from the soft nature of the soil in the bottom of the well, lengthened our stay considerably in Port Darwin. The water oozed through the sides, beginning to do so at a depth of twenty-five feet. The strata cut through varied considerably, in part consisting of ironstone mixed with a white kind of marl or pipeclay, for eight feet, then sandstone of a reddish colour and in a state of decomposition, with a darker kind of marl, in which were small bits of mica, for a depth of sixteen feet, the remaining portion of two or three being a sandy mud, apparently of the consistency of clay and of a light grey colour. The position of this well is in a small valley at the east end of the first sandy bay within Point Emery, in the centre of which the observations were made, placing it in latitude 12 degrees 27 minutes 45 seconds, longitude 1 degree 19 minutes 40 seconds, East of Port Essington. On this beach several unsuccessful hauls were made with the seine, though a few rare and curious fish were taken, which Lieutenant Emery added to his collection of coloured drawings of Australian fish; some of them will be found in the appendix to this volume. Mr. Bynoe also obtained specimens of one or two rare birds; the large red-necked vampire of the Adelaide River, and the cream-coloured pigeon before alluded to, were also seen by him, being the farthest south the latter was met with by us. BRILLIANT METEORS. Some brilliant meteors were observed during our stay, one in particular on the evening of the 20th, in the West-North-West. It fell from the zenith at an angle of about twenty degrees from a vertical line. The descent was marked by a long train of light, visible ten seconds, while others of less brilliancy followed from the same place within an hour. Again on the 23rd, was the dark vault of heaven illumined about the same time in a similar manner, as well as on the 28th; the number of meteors being the same on each day. We were rather surprised on the 24th, to experience a squall from the eastward about midnight, a regular occurrence on the North-west coast in January and February only. VISITED BY NATIVES. On the 24th a party of natives made their appearance on Point Emery. Their voices, shrill like those of all their fellows, were heard before they were seen. With these it was particularly so, though on all occasions the speaking, and hallooing of the Aborigines can be heard at a very considerable distance. They were found, when on shore, to be of the party we had before seen in Shoal Bay, with the addition of five strange men. All appeared actuated by the same friendly disposition, a very strong indication of which was their presenting themselves without spears.* Like most others on that coast, they had apiece of bamboo, eighteen inches long, run through the cartilage of the nose. Their astonishment at the size of the wells was highly amusing; sudden exclamations of surprise and admiration burst from their lips, while the varied expressions and play of countenance, showed how strongly their feelings were at work within. (*Footnote. Speaking of natives appearing without spears, reminds me to mention for the information of future explorers, that their arms are always near at hand. They even trail them sometimes between their toes, a fact which travellers should ever bear in mind.) It is very singular, and not very susceptible of explanation, that although they climb tall trees by merely resting their toes in a slight notch cut as they ascend, the natives will hesitate in alarm before looking over the edge of a precipice or height; it was, therefore, some time before this party could be induced to look down the well. At length by stretching their spare bodies and necks to the utmost, they caught sight of the water in the bottom. SURPRISE OF NATIVES AT THE WELL. The effect upon them was magical, and they stood at first as if electrified. At length their feelings gained vent, and from their lips proceeded an almost mad shout of delight. Nothing perhaps could have more decisively shown the superiority of the white men to these savages, than our being thus able to procure this necessary of life from so great a depth, there being moreover no outward appearance of any. Perhaps their delight may be considered a sign how scarce is water in this part of the country. I should certainly say from the immense quantity each man drank, which was two quarts, that this was the case. A further corroboration of the extreme importance of this element to the Western Australian is, that a native, in describing a fine country, always opens his narrative by stating the important fact--plenty water. The deep interest which in the natives always succeeds to the discovery of this necessary article, must strongly impress the explorer, who will ever afterwards look upon streams, even in other countries, with far different feelings from any before experienced. In no land does the presence of water more rapidly enrich the landscape, changing it from a thirsty-looking plain to a rich green spot, than in Australia, and it is in journeying through such a country, when one suddenly meets with a luxuriant valley, that the eye naturally dwells with delight on the changing scene, and the impression, not easily forgotten, clings to us even when far away. When gazing on the superabundant water that flows in almost every corner of the earth, we cannot but reflect on the scantily supplied Australian, nor fail to wish him a more plentiful supply. BLESSING OF WATER. Naturally we are disposed to reflect but little on the great blessings of the most ordinary things. In the eyes of the civilized man, fire and water are matters scarcely worthy of thought; but it is the traveller who learns to appreciate how great blessings they are in reality. An influenza appeared to be raging among the natives, all having the remnants of colds, coughing severely when we met them. Several attempts were made to induce them to come on board, but they proved vain. Sometimes, just as the boat was leaving the shore, they would enter the bow of it, as if about to accompany us; no sooner, however, was the boat in motion, than out they jumped, laughing and apparently delighted to deceive us, acting, in fact, exactly the part of noisy children. "IRRU, IRRU." Our friendly intercourse with these natives sustained a shock, which at first threatened to annihilate it, but which fortunately ended, as it began, in smoke. One of the officers used a common flint and steel, in order to procure a light for his cigar; at this new mode of procuring fire all eyes were open--for doubtless they procure it only by means of friction--but when he proceeded to place the lighted cigar between his lips, and roll forth from thence a thick and perfumed cloud, fright took full possession of them, and exclaiming "irru, irru," with the arm extended, and a slight vertical motion of the hand, they darted off most unceremoniously, clambering up the face of a precipitous cliff, with extraordinary agility. Their cry of "irru, irru," and their manner of delivering it, were identical with those of King's Sound, under somewhat similar circumstances. In a few days they had forgotten their fright, and had returned to renew the friendly relations this little incident had interrupted. During the short time we passed with this people in Port Darwin, some words of their language were collected by many of us. Those that we all agreed in I have noted down, but the different names for things given by the same person, here and at Shoal Bay, will at once impress the reader with the conviction of how impossible it is for transient visitors to obtain a correct vocabulary. Those first made out at Port Essington, were found to be half Malay words, and of any meaning rather than what they were supposed to convey. The words given below are from Mr. Earl's vocabulary, the result of four years careful examination and experience. COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. COLUMN 2: SHOAL BAY. COLUMN 3: PORT DARWIN. COLUMN 4: PORT ESSINGTON. COLUMN 5: SWAN RIVER. Crab : Algaura : - : Meir : -. Dog : Melinga : - : Mugki : Dudah. Ear : Bangua : - : Alayjar : Zungah. Eye : Ummera : Mical : Ira : Mael. Hair : Brailma : Guarshiel : Angbal : Cutap. Hand : - : Guian : - : -. Stone : - : Lowheil : - : -. Tree : Urmingua : - : Ojalli : Boono. Teeth : Emburge : - : Aujije : Nalgo. Water : - : Kararback : - : Kaaby. DIFFICULTY OF UNDERSTANDING THE NATIVES. The great difference between the words at Shoal Bay and Port Darwin, must now be apparent to the reader; a more extended acquaintance with the aboriginal inhabitants of Australia, has shown that many words put down by us as meaning a certain thing, signify in reality, "What do you mean?" "I do not understand"--which shows at once the great difficulty of arriving at the truth. This must often be the case; for what is more natural, than that when a savage is asked the meaning of a thing, and knows not, but that he should express his ignorance? How often this expression of ignorance has been registered as the denomination of some animal or thing, we leave the reader to conjecture. Moreover, there are many words totally obliterated from their dialects, which thus undergo constant alteration. This in part arises from the circumstance of their never mentioning the name of a deceased person, who has perhaps been called after a tree, bird, or animal; which then receives another appellation, the old one passing away. From the few words given of the respective dialects of Port Essington and Swan River, they would appear essentially to differ, and from what has since come under my own observation, as well as from facts collected by others, I feel confident that there are
{'title': 'Discoveries in Australia, Volume 2 by John Lort Stokes', 'source': 'Project Gutenberg', 'lang': 'en'}