START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE TOURIST'S GUIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES*** Transcribed from the 1853 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price. [Picture: Llangollen] THE TOURISTâS GUIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES. BY G. J. BENNETT. * * * * * WITH ETCHINGS, BY A. CLINT. * * * * * London: WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE. G. PHILIP & SON, LIVERPOOL; J. MORGAN, OSWESTRY. 1853. ILLUSTRATIONS. 1 Llangollen facing Title Page. 2 Chirk Castle 26 3 Font in the Grounds of PlÃ¢s Newydd 35 4 Castell Dinas BrÃ¢n 39 5 Valle Crucis Abbey 40 6 Pillar of Eliseg 42 7 Bala Lake 50 8 Cader Idris, from the Bala Road 54 9 Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr 56 10 View from Carreg y Saeth 68 11 Harlech Castle 75 12 The Vale of Maentwrog 79 13 The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog 83 14 Pont Aber Glaslyn 88 15 Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn 92 Gwynant 16 Pass of Llanberis 96 17 The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus 114 18 Conwy Castle 119 PREFACE. THE Authorâs object in offering to the Public the following pages is, that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may also have an opportunity of seeing the most _interesting_ portion of it in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in which natureâs prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive lakes; or _that_ where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the summits of which a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the eye,âwherein the valleys, glens, and wild ravines present an endless variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall pour forth their melody of never-tiring sweetness, to delight the ear? Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the _former_; while, in the route here represented to the Publicâwithin the reach of allârepose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs after a dayâs ramble in whatever part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the healthy and active should decidedly make _use_ of their _limbs_, to bear them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights upon the ponies, which are always in readiness at the inns for that purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction that the one is a most unnecessary burthen to the other. The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble, they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills, and their happy ignorance of luxuries, gives an enviable zest. Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to satisfy their utmost wishes. âThough poor the peasantâs hut, his feasts thoâ small, He sees his little lot the lot of all. * * * * Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms, And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms. And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest, Clings close and closer to the motherâs breast, So the loud torrent, and the whirlwindâs roar, But bind him to his native mountains more.â DIRECTIONS TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE. A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each letter particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order, therefore, to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following rules. In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are circumflex must be pronounced long, as BÃ´n like the English bone. Bin, as been. C, always as K in English. Ch, is pronounced as the Greek _Î§_. Dd, as the English th in this, that, thou. F, as V in English. Ff as F and double F in English. G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial. I, as I in king, but never as in fire. Ll, as L aspirated. Th, as in thought. U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss, &c. W, as double O in good, wood. Y, as U in burn; but in the last syllable of a word, and in all monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in Sin. By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place to which he may be journeying. GLOSSARY. _Ab_, (or _Ap_,) the son of. _Aber_, the junction of a river with the sea. _Allt_, a hill; a mutation of _gallt_. _Annedd_, a dwelling place. _Am_, about. _Ar_, upon. _Arvon_, bordering upon _MÃ´n_, or Anglesey. _Ardal_, a region. _Argae_, an embankment. _Avon_, a river. _BÃ¢ch_, little; when joined to a substantive feminine, it is written _vÃ¢ch_. _Bala_, an outlet. _Ban_, high, lofty. Plur. _banau_, heights, or eminences. _Banc_, a bank. _BÃ¢s_, shallow. _Bedd_, a grave. _Blaen_, a point, upper end, or extremity. _BÃ´d_, an abode, residence, habitation. _BÃ´n_, the base. _Braenar_, fallow land. _Braich_, an arm. _BrÃ®g_, top, summit. _BrÃ®th_, speckled, mottled. _Bron_, a breast, the slope of a hill. _Bryn_, a hill, or mount. Pl. _bryniau_. _Buwch_, a cow. _Bwlch_, a pass, or defile. Pl. _bylchau_. _CÃ¢d_, battle, war. _Cader_, a chair. _Cae_, a field. Pl. _caeau_. _Caer_, a fortress, or fortified town. _Cantrev_, a district containing 100 townships. A canton, a hundred. _Capel_, a chapel. _Careg_, a stone. Pl. _ceryg_. _Carn_, a heap of stones. The hoof of a horse. _Carnedd_, a heap of stones. Pl. _carneddau_. _Castell_, a castle. Pl. _cestyll_. _Ceulan_, bank of a river. _Cevn_, the bank, ridge of a hill. _CÃ®l_, a recess. _Cilvach_, a small recess. _Clawdd_, a hedge, dyke. _Clawdd Offa_, Offaâs dyke. _Clogwyn_, a precipice. _CÃ´ch_, red. _Coed_, trees. Sing. _coeden_, a tree. _CÃ´r_, a circle, a choir. _Bangor_, high choir. _Corlan_, a sheepfold. _Cors_, a bog, or fen. _Craig_, a rock, a crag. Pl. _creigiau_. _Croes_, a cross. _Crug_, a hillock. Pl. _crugion_. _Cwm_, a valley, dingle, glen. _Cymmer_, the junction of two rivers. _Dau_, two. _Dehau_, south, the right side. _Din_, _dinas_, a city, a fort, a fortified place on a hill. _DÃ´l_, a meadow. _Drws_, a doorway. _Du_, black; hence _dwrdu_, the river Dee; literally, Black-water. _Dwy_, two. (fem.) _Dwr_, or _dwvr_, water. Pl. _dyvroedd_. _Eglwys_, a church. _Erw_, an acre. _Esgair_, a leg, a long ridge of mountain. _Fordd_, a road. _Fynnon_, a fountain, a well. _Gaer_, a mutation of _caer_, as _y gaer_, the fortress. _Gallt_, a hill; in construction, _allt_. _Gardd_, a garden. _Garth_, a promontory. _Gelli_, a grove of hazels. _Glan_, the brink, bank; _glan y mÃ´r_, the sea side. _GlÃ¢s_, blue, grey, green. _Glyn_, a glen. _Gorsav_, a station, stand. _Grug_, heath. _Gwaelod_, a bottom. _Gwaen_, a large plain. _Gwern_, watery meadow. Alder. _Gwydd_, wood. _Gwyn_, white. Fem. _gwen_, _wen_. _Gwyrdd_, green. Fem. _gwerdd_, _werdd_. _Havod_, a summer dwelling. _Hen_, old. _Hendre_, old mansion. _Heol_, a street. _Hir_, long. _IÃ¢l_, open country. _Is_, lower. _Isav_, lowest. _Llain_, a long piece. _Llan_, a church; a village with a church. _Llawr_, a floor. _Llech_, a flat stone, slate, slab. _Lluest_, an encampment. _Llwyd_, grey, hoary. _Llwyn_, a grove, a bush, a copse. _Llyn_, a lake, pool. _Llys_, a court, a palace. _Maen_, a stone. Pl. _meini_. _Maenor_, a manor. _Maes_, an open field. _Mall_, bad, rotten. _Man_, a place. _Mawn_, peat. _Mawnog_, a turbary. _Mawr_, great, large. _Melin_, a mill. _Melyn_, yellow. _Merthyr_, a martyr. _Moel_, bald, bare; a bare hill. _MÃ´n_, Anglesey. _MÃ´r_, the sea. _Morva_, a marsh. _Mynach_, a monk. _Mynydd_, a mountain. _Nant_, a brook, ravine, glen. _Neuadd_, a hall. _Newydd_, new. _Ochr_, a side. _Pant_, a hollow. _Parth_, a division, a part. _Pen_, a head. _Penmaen_, a promontory, a rocky head. _Penrhyn_, a promontory, a cape. _Pentrev_, a village, a hamlet. _Perth_, a brake, a thornbush. _Pistyll_, a spout of water. _PlÃ¢s_, a mansion, a hall. _Plwyv_, a parish. _Pont_, a bridge. _Porth_, a gate, a ferry. _Pwll_, a pit, a pool. _Rhaiadr_, a cataract, a waterfall. _Rhiw_, a slope. _RhÃ´s_, a moor. _Rhudd_, crimson, ruddy. _Rhyd_, a ford. _Rhydycroesau_, the ford of the Crosses. _Sarn_, a causeway. _Serth_, steep, abrupt. _Swydd_, an office, a county. _Tal_, the head or front. _Talcen_, the forehead. _Tan_, under. _Tervyn_, the boundary. _Tir_, the earth. _Tommen_, a tumulus. _Traeth_, a sand. _Trev_, a town. _Tri_, three. _Troed_, a foot. Pl. _traed_, feet. _Trwyn_, a nose. _Twr_, a tower. _Ty_, a house. Pl. _Tai_, houses. _Tyddyn_, a farm. _Tywyn_, a strand, a sandy shore. _Uchav_, highest. _Uwch_, higher. _Y_, the. _Yn_, in. _Ynys_, an island. _Yspytty_, a hospital. _Ystlys_, the side, the flank. _Ystrad_, a flat, a vale. _Ystum_, a bend. _Ystwyth_, flexible. THE ROUTE. ROUTE. MILES. OBSERVATIONS. From LONDON to SHREWSBURY, thence 154 _Objects of to Interest_.âCastle, Abbey, Lord Hillâs Column, Quarry Walk, and Town Hall. _Angling Station_.âThe Severn. _Hotels_.âThe Lion, Raven, Raven and Bell, and Crown. CHIRK 22 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Castle, Brynkinalt, Viaduct, Aqueduct, and Vale. _Angling Station_.âThe Ceiriog. _Hotel_.âThe Chirk Castle Arms. LLANGOLLEN 7 _Objects of Interest_.âChurch, PlÃ¢s Newydd, Castle Dinas BrÃ¢n, Valle Crucis Abbey, Pillar of Eliseg, Aqueduct and Viaduct. _Angling Stations_.âThe Dee, to Corwen or Overton. _Hotels_.âThe Hand, Royal Hotel, and Ponsonby Arms. CORWEN 10 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Church, Cross, Glyndwrâs Seat, Vale of Edeyrnion. _Angling Stations_.âBetween Corwen and Llansaintffraid bridge. _Hotel_.âThe Owen Glyndwr. LLANDRILLO 6 _Hotel_.âWhite Lion. BALA 6 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Lake, Aran Vawddwy, Arenig Vawr, Arenig VÃ¢ch. _Angling Stations_.âBala Lake, River Dee, Treweryn, &c. _Hotels_.âWhite Lion and Bullâs Head. DOLGELLEY 18 _Objects of Interest_.âNannau Park, Kymmer Abbey, County Gaol, Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr, Pistyll Cain, Rhaiadr Mawddach, and Dolymelynllyn. Llanvachreth Waterfall. _Angling Stations_.âMawddach, River Wnion, Llyn Cregynan, S.W. 4 miles, Llyn-y-Gader, 1Â½ m., Llyn Geirw, 5 m., Tal-y-llyn, on Cader Idris, 6 m. _Hotels_.âGolden Lion, Angel, & Ship. BARMOUTH 10 _Objects of Interest_.âOld Town, Sarn Badrig, Cors-y-gedol. _Angling Stations_.âLlyn Raithlyn, nr. Trawsvynydd, Arthog Chapel, 3 m. distant, Llyn Bodlyn, 4 miles from Barmouth, Llyn Irddyn and Llyn Geirw, near the town. _Hotel_.âCors-y-gedol Arms. HARLECH 10 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Castle, Cwm Bychan, Cromlech, 2 m. S. in a farm called Gwern Einion; Druidical Circle between the farm and Harlech. _Angling Stations_.â Llanvihangel, on Dwyryd, 5 m.; Llanbedr on the Artro, 3 m.; Llyn-y-Vedw, Llyn Eiddew, Gloywlyn; Llyn y Cwm Bychan, Llyn Trewyn. _Hotel_.âThe Blue Lion. MAENTWROG 10 _Objects of Interest_.âTan-y- Bwlch, Slate Quarries, 5 m.; Rhaiadr Du and Raven Fall, 2 m.; Festiniog, 3 m.; Falls of Cynvael, Roman Encampment (Tommen-y-Mur), 3 m. from Festiniog. _Angling Stations_.âLlyn Llenyrch, 3Â½ m. (good trout); Cwmmorthin Lake (in the Pass of Cwmmorthin) 4Â½ m.; Llyn-y-Manod, 6 m. (large trout); Llyn-y-Morwynion, 6 m.; Llyn Tecwyn, 3 m.; Llyn Conwy, Llyn Garw. _Hotels_.âMaentwrog Inn, Oakley Arms. At Festiniog, Pengwern Arms. TREMADOC 10Â½ _Objects of Interest_.âThe Breakwater at Port Madoc; Church. _Angling Station_.âAt Tremadoc. _Hotel_.âMadoc Arms. BEDDGELERT 10Â½ _Objects of Interest_.âPont Aber Glaslyn, Gelertâs Grave, Chair of Rhys GÃ´ch oâr Eryri. _Angling Stations_.âNant Gwynnant, Llyn Dinas, Cwm Llan, Llyn Gwynnant, Llyn Llydaw, Pont Aber Glaslyn. _Hotel_.âThe Goat. LLANBERIS 14 _Objects of Interest_.âDolbadarn Castle, Church, Tomb of Little John Closs, Well of St. Peris, Lakes, Pass. _Angling Stations_.âUpper and Lower Lakes (bad sport), Llyn Cwm Dwythog, 2 m.; Llyn Llydaw (on Snowdon), 5 m.; Glaslyn, on the west of Snowdon. _Hotels_.âVictoria and Snowdonia. CAPEL CURIG 10 _Objects of Interest_.âRhaiadr-y- Wennol Waterfall, Moel-Siabod, Dolwyddelan Castle, 5 m. _Angling Stations_.âSame as above. _Hotel_.âCapel Curig Inn. BETTWS-Y-COED 5 _Objects of Interest_.âPont-y- Pair, Shenkinâs Cave, Church, Monument to Davydd GÃ´ch. _Angling Stations_.âLake Ogwen, Nant Francon, Llyn Idwal, River Llugwy. LLANRWST 5 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Bridge, Gwydir Castle, Church, Gwydir Chapel. _Angling Stations_.âBettws-y- Coed, 3 m.; Trevriw, 2Â½ m.; Dolgarrog, 4 m.; Llanbedr, 5 m.; Dolwyddelan, 8 m.; Tal-y-Llyn, and Llyn Cravnant, near Llanrwst. _Hotel_.âThe Eagles. CONWY 12 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Castle, Church, Curious Monuments, PlÃ¢s Mawr, Ormshead, Suspension and Tubular Bridges. _Angling Stations_.âSame as above. _Hotels_.âCastle & Newborough Arms. BANGOR 9 _Objects of Interest_.âPenrhyn Castle, Slate Quarries, Britannia Tubular Bridge, Menai Bridge, Beaumaris, Castle, Penmon Monastery, Plas Newydd, Baron Hill, Puffin Island, and the Cathedral. _Angling Stations_.âLlyn Ogwen, Llyn Idwal, and Ogwen River. _Hotels_.âThe Penrhyn Arms, Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Albion. CARNARVON 8 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Castle, the Harbour, and Ruins of Segontium, at Llanbeblig. _Hotels_.âUxbridge Arms, Castle, and Sportsman. _Angling Stations_.âThe Seiont, Pont Newydd. _And back to Bangor_ 8 ABERGELE 25Â¼ _Objects of Interest_.âKinmel Park, Gwrych Castle. _Angling Stations_.âElwy, Aled. _Hotel_.âBee. RHYL 4Â¼ _Objects of Interest_.âA _detour_ viÃ¢ Rhuddlan, 2 m., St. Asaph, 3Â½, Denbigh, 6, affords a pleasant dayâs excursion. _Angling Stations_.âClwyd and Elwy. _Hotels_.âBelvoir, Royal, Mostyn Arms. HOLYWELL 13 _Objects of Interest_.âSt. Winefredâs Well, Basingwerk. _Hotels_.âWhite Horse, Kingâs Arms, Kingâs Head, Red Lion. FLINT 5 _Object of Interest_.âThe Castle. _Hotels_.âRoyal Oak, Ship. HAWARDEN 7Â½ _Objects of Interest_.âCastle and Park. _Hotel_.âGlynne Arms. CHESTER 7 _Objects of Interest_.âThe Castle and Armory, the Walls, Rows, Cathedral, Old Houses in Watergate Street, Underground Chapel in Bridge Street, and the Ancient Residence of the Earls of Derby. _Angling Station_.âThe Dee. _Hotels_.âRoyal, Albion, Feathers, White Lion, Green Dragon, Blossoms, Hop-pole. FIVE DAYSâ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER OR SHREWSBURY. FIRST DAY.âChester or Shrewsbury to Llangollen Road Station by rail, 20 miles; Llangollen, 5 m; Corwen, 10 m. SECOND DAY.âBettws y Coed, 22Â½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m; Capel Curig, 10 m. THIRD DAY.âLlanberis, 10 m; Dolbadarn Castle and back, 4 m; Beddgelert, 12 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Carnarvon, 13 m. FOURTH DAY.âBangor, 8 m; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6Â½ m. FIFTH DAY.âConwy, 14Â¼ m; Llandudno, Ormeâs Head, back to Conwy, 10; and per rail to Chester, 45Â½ m. NINE DAYSâ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER. FIRST DAY.âChester to Hawarden, 7 m; Flint, 7 m; Holywell, 5 m. SECOND DAY.âRhyl, 13Â½ m; Rhuddlan, 2 m; St. Asaph, 3Â½ m; Denbigh, 6 m. THIRD DAY.âAbergele, 13 m; Conwy, 11 m.; Llandudno and back, 10 m. FOURTH DAY.âBangor, 14Â½ m.; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6 m. (See Bridges.) FIFTH DAY.âHolyhead and back, 50 m; Carnarvon, 8. SIXTH DAY.âBeddgelert, 13 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Llanberis, 12 m; Dolbadarn and back, 4 m. SEVENTH DAY.âCapel Curig, 10 m.; Rhaiadr y Wennol, 3Â½ m.; Bettws y Coed, 1Â½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m. EIGHTH DAY.âCorwen, 26 m; Llangollen, 10 m. (See Valle Crucis Abbey, Castell Dinas BrÃ¢n, and PlÃ¢s Newydd.) NINTH DAY.âPont y Cysylltau Aqueduct, 3 m; Chirk, 3 m; (see Chirk Castle and Brynkinalt;) Ruabon, 6; (see Wynnstay); Wrexham, 4Â½; Chester, 12 m. * * * * * *** For objects of interest, angling stations, and hotels, see first Route. CHAPTER I. Preliminary Observations.âPreparations for a Tour.âRail to Shrewsbury.âBattlefield Church.âChirk.âThe Castle.âBrynkinalt.âViaducts and Aqueducts.âA Delightful Walk.âLlangollen. âLike brethren now do Welshmen still agree In as much love as any men alive; The friendship there and concord that I see I doe compare to bees in honey hive, Which keep in swarme, and hold together still, Yet gladly showe to stranger great good will; A courteous kinde of love in every place A man may finde, in simple peopleâs face.â CHURCHYARD. VARIOUS, as the features of human nature, are the sources of human happiness. Some derive their choicest pleasure from historical accounts of men who lived in by-gone ages, and in re-creating events that have long since been engulphed in the abyss of time,âbreaking down the barrier of intervening years, and mingling, in idea, with those who were once deemed the glorious of the earth, who now lie blended with its grossest atoms, or are confounded with the purer elements. Some, parching with the thirst of knowledge, seek to slake the fever of their minds with most laborious research; explore the utmost regions of the globe to find a shorter marine passage; or pierce into its depths to seek for treasures which only exist in their heated fancies. The vast ocean is fathomed to satisfy the ruling principle of their natures,âcuriosity; and the realms of air traversed with the same motive to insure the universally desired result, self-gratification. While some, leaving the elements to perform the destined changes, are willing to agree with the poet, who in the warmth of his philanthropy exclaims: âThe proper study of mankind is man;â and among this class of beings the author of these pages may be ranked, although he willingly confesses nature has the power of charming him in her most minute as in her most stupendous works, from the curious and confined instinct of the ant and of the bee to the wonderful and exhaustless energies of the human mind, âThat source Whence learning, virtue, wisdom, all things flow.â The court, the city, and the country, present an endless variety of subjects for contemplation; and the latter being the region of delight to those whose business confines them to the metropolis for the winter months, the author of this volume is anxious to be thought a useful and amusing companion to such tourists who, in pursuit of health and the charms of nature, may wander âIn the Welsh vales âmid mountains high.â where the sublime and beautiful present themselves at every turn to captivate the eye, and ruddy health colours the smiling faces of every peasant girl and shepherd boy, from Chirk to Holyhead. To a mind capable of estimating fine scenery, how delightful are the hurry and bustle which usually take place on the morning of departure, in fond expectation of realizing the anticipated pleasure of viewing those beauties of nature the imagination has but weakly painted! The sun is scarcely sooner up than the traveller; and, although, perhaps, it is yet three hours to the time of departure, his anxiety preponderates over the now slighted comforts of his bed of down, and with an agile leap he quits his restless pillow, and hastily despatching the business of his toilet, with his heart beating high, and his knapsack already stuffed with three shirts, as many pairs of stockings, guide books, and as few other necessaries as may be, in order to make his walking wardrobe as light as possible, he prepares to take the road. If a disciple of old Izaac Walton and Cotton, he will not fail to have his book of flies, lines, reels, &c., and a light fly-rod to carry in his hand, and for which he is sure to have use whenever he feels inclined for piscatory pastime on his tour. So stocked and provided, he bids defiance to the evils of life; and may exclaim with the poet âWarly cares and warly men May aâ gae tapsalteeree O!â âThe cab is at the door, Sir.â âVery good.â âIs everything I want put into it?â âYes, Sir.â âWell, good-bye!â âNow, my man, drive to Euston-square Station.â âAll right, Sir.â And away we went, What a scene of bustle and confusion a metropolitan railway station presents a few minutes before the starting of a train, and more especially in holiday time. Men, women, and children, in every direction, hurriedly traversing the crowded platform; luggage barrows, with porters, rushing to and fro; newspaper venders bawling â_Times_! _Chronicle_! _Punch_!â Cabs galloping into the yard with anxious passengers; others, after having deposited their living burthens, slowly quitting it; the crowd of persons pressing forward for their tickets, jamming and jostling each other, as if the existence of each individual depended upon his or her obtaining that necessary passport. At length all are supplied and seated in their various carriages. Phiz! goes the steam, and the train slowly and majestically quits the station, gathering fresh speed in its progress, until the travellers find themselves whirled along at the rate of thirty or forty miles an hour; station after station appear and disappear like the lightning flash of a summerâs cloudâ âA moment bright, then lost for ever,â and in the short space of a few hours the journey to Shrewsbury is accomplished. BATTLEFIELD. Within two miles of Shrewsbury, and nearly the same distance from the railway, upon the right of the line, the traveller will behold Battlefield Church, built by Henry the Fourth to commemorate the celebrated Battle of Shrewsbury, which, like that of Bosworth, has been immortalised by the magic pen of Shakspere. Who cannot call to remembrance the gallant and fiery Hotspur, or the future Hero of Agincourt?ââYoung Harry with his beaver on,ââand last, not least, fat Jack Falstaff, his humourous catechism upon âHonour;â with whom discretion was the better part of valour, notwithstanding his âlong hourâs fight by Shrewsbury clock?â Here, covered with wounds, the ambitious Hotspur fell, and his dead body, which had been buried on the field, was unearthed, and barbarously bruised between two millstones, and afterwards beheaded and quartered. SHREWSBURY. The old town of Shrewsbury contains many objects of considerable interest and historical association, which will afford to the antiquary or the curious abundant gratification for the few hours he may devote to them. Those to which the traveller should in particular direct his attention are the Castle, the Abbey, and St. Gilesâs Church; the two former were built by the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, Roger de Montgomery. The town is beautifully situated on the Severn, on a peninsula made by the bend of the river; and, standing upon gentle eminences, it presents a bold and commanding appearance. Upon the west side of the town, stretching along upon the banks of the river, and over-arched with magnificent lime trees, is a most delightful promenadeâcalled the Quarry. Having stayed the night in Shrewsbury, the following morning I once more placed myself in a railway carriage for a short ride upon the line to Chirk, at which place I had made up my mind to commence my pedestrian tour. I think it necessary, however, to impress upon the minds of tourists that the Llangollen Road Station (which is a mile beyond Chirk) is unquestionably the key upon this side of the country to the very heart of the finest scenery in Wales, and that from thence he can obtain public conveyances which run daily to Capel Curig, Snowdon, Bala, Barmouth, Dolgelley, and a hundred other enchanting places in the Principality. Arriving at Chirk Station, I, like the Honourable Dick Dowlas, with my wardrobe on my back, and a light heart, proceeded on the road to the village. Bees hummed, birds sang, and blossoms sent forth their fragrance, to delight the traveller as he gaily trudged âthe footpath way.â Cheerfulness was above, beneath, and around me, and in my heart. I had not taken many paces when I was accosted by an elderly person, in a straw hat, fustian shooting coat, knee breeches, gaiters, and shoes, he had a stout cudgel in his hand, and knapsack more capacious than mine strapped over his shoulders. He appeared to be about fifty-five years of age, and being furnished like myself, it struck me that a passing traveller might naturally take us for father and son. Fortunately, we were pursuing the same route, and a desultory dialogue commenced with the never-failing observationâ âA fine morning, Sir.â âVery.â âA great admirer of the charms of nature, I presume?â âAn enthusiastic one.â âYouâre for the Welsh vales, I suppose?â âAnd mountains high,â I exclaimed, warming to my loquacious companionâ âIn the Welsh vales âmid mountains high,â sang he, in a round-toned voice, with which I chimed in, and we were the best friends on a sudden. There certainly is no society so interesting as that picked up by the tourist, who leaves with contempt the starched formalities of a great city behind him, and walks forth unencumbered by care, to enjoy the society of mankind in its varied and unsophisticated nature. Every person we meet affords us information and delight; for a kindred spirit animates almost every individual whom you may chance to encounter in countries remarkable for beauties of scenery, and especially in a region like North Wales, where inns of the best kind are situated at the most convenient points, and the foot passenger is treated with as much respect as a lord in his carriage. The landlords of inns here think that a man may make the proper use of his legs without being a beggar; and that the costume of a pedestrian may cover the form of a gentleman. This philanthropic conception contributes to form that happy combination, civil hosts and merry travellers. There is no want of society, nor any difficulty in selecting that with which you are best pleased; for every evening brings in fresh comers from various quarters to the different places of rest and refreshment. The exchange of information respecting routes, the different adventures of the day, the peculiar feelings displayed in their recital, and countenances lit up with pleasure, give a degree of animation to the evening, never to be equalled in the brilliant drawing-room, the blaze of which seems to put out the eyes of reason,â âAnd men areâwhat they name not to themselves And trust not to each other.â THE VILLAGE OF CHIRK is agreeably situated upon the northern bank of the river Ceiriog, which divides England from Wales. The village church is dedicated to St. Mary, and is an impropriation belonging to Valle Crucis Abbey, and contains some monuments erected to the memories of the Chirk families. The most interesting is that of the famous Sir Thomas Myddelton. In the churchyard are some fine aged yew trees. BRYNKINALT. Taking the road upon the left of the church, we entered the charming park of Brynkinalt, and visited one of the most picturesque seats in the Principality. This elegant mansion, with its ivy-covered walls, is the principal residence of the Viscount Dungannon, who is descended from Tudor Trevor, Earl of Hereford, founder of one of the fifteen tribes of North Wales. Valle Crucis Abbey, as well as many of the churches in the neighbourhood, have been greatly improved at his lordshipâs expense, who is distinguished for archÃ¦ological taste and research. The house was built during the reign of James the First, from a design by Inigo Jones, and is delightfully situated upon the brow of a hill, from which circumstance it derives its name. The park is divided by the river Ceiriog. The late Duke of Wellington was maternally descended from this house. His mother, the Countess of Mornington, who was a daughter of Arthur Hill-Trevor, first Viscount Dungannon, spent much of her time here during the boyhood of our illustrious hero, who frequently visited his noble parent during the Eton holidays. There are yet living those who remember the boyish frolics of him who was at a later period destined to act so conspicuous a part in the worldâs history. By permission of the noble proprietor, the house and grounds are accessible to strangers during the summer months, and the paintings by Claude, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Carravaggio, Zucharelli, &c., are well worthy the inspection of the connoisseur and artist. CHIRK CASTLE. âIn Cambriaâs noon of story, Ere bright she set in glory, The brave and great, in princely state, All hailâd Chirk Castle walls. With splendid arms returning, The flaring torches burning, âMid armourâs clang the clarions rang, And searchâd the sounding halls.â SONG BY F. M. DOVASTON, A.M. Chirk Castle is delightfully situated on the spacious domain, spreading over the summit of, what would be deemed, by a southern, a lofty mountain, but which is here only designated a hill, projecting from the range of the Berwyn Mountains, and is well calculated to recall the stories of the days of old, when flourishedâ âThe good old rule, the simple plan, That they should take who have the power, And they should keep who can.â It is built of solid stone; and the ivy, mantling over the walls, gives them an appearance of solemnity and grandeur peculiarly interesting. It is quadrangular, and is strengthened by five massive towers, one at each corner, and the fifth projecting from the principal front, through which is a lofty entrance into the court-yard, 165 feet in length, and 100 feet in breadth, surrounded on every side by noble suites of apartments. The picture gallery measures 100 feet in length, by twenty-two in breadth, and contains some very excellent paintings, and several portraits of the Myddelton family. Amongst the latter is that of Sir Thomas Myddelton, who defended himself gallantly against the forces of Cromwell. He was rewarded for his loyalty by Charles the Second, who granted him Â£30,000 for the loss he had sustained, besides many valuable presents; amongst others, a cabinet, which is shewn in the gallery, valued at Â£7000, richly ornamented with silver; in various compartments of which are paintings, said to have been executed by Rubens. The monarch offered to elevate Sir Thomas to the peerage, which he declined. [Picture: Chirk Castle] The walls of the castle are eighteen feet in thickness; but sleeping and other apartments have been cut into them, for the accommodation of the family. The celebrated picture of Pistyll Rhaiadr, in the dining-room, shows that noble waterfall tumbling into the _sea_, _where several ships are quietly riding at anchor_. âPistyll Rhaiadr,â _i.e._ âThe Spout of the Cataract,â is considered the largest fall in Wales. In the valley of Mochnant, about four miles from Llanrhaiadr, the river falls over an almost perpendicular rock, 240 feet high; thence rushing furiously under a natural arch towards the bottom, it plunges into a deep black pool, overhung with impervious shaggy wood. The story of the artistâs introducing the ocean, with ships, is rather curious. He was a foreigner, and but little acquainted with the English language; and when he had completed the picture, one of the persons to whom it was first shown observed, that âa few _sheep_ placed near the foot of the fall would be a great improvement.â Misunderstanding _sheep_ for _ship_, his amazement was extreme. He, however, took the picture to his easel, and introduced _ships_, with the necessary element to float them! A mistake so humourous determined the purchaser to allow of no further alteration. The present building was completed in two years. The first stone being laid in the year 1011, and in 1013 the castle frowned defiance to the foe. It was built by Roger Mortimer, Earl of Wigmore, as a stronghold to defend him from the just vengeance he had created by the murder of the sons of Gruffydd ab Madoc, to whom he was appointed guardian, in conjunction with John, Earl of Warren, in the hope of inheriting their joint estates. Mortimer was to seize upon Nanheudwy and Chirk, the property of the youngest; and Warren upon the lands of Bromfield, Yale, and Dinas Bran, belonging to the eldest. Travellers should not neglect to visit this noble specimen of warlike architecture. Its picture gallery and dungeon will, in their different styles, excite admiration. On the foundation of the present castle anciently stood Castle Crogen; and the territory around bore the name of Trev-y Waun, the property of the lords of Dinas Bran, which continued in their possession up to the death of Gruffydd ab Madoc, in the reign of Edward the First. The view from the highlands of the park is very extensive, and commands a prospect of seventeen different counties. The vale beneath, which winds along the foot of the vast Berwyn Mountains, was the scene of a desperate conflict between Henry the Second and the Welsh. Henry having determined once more to attempt the subjugation of Wales, and to revenge the ravages carried through the borders by its gallant prince, Owen Gwynedd, assembled a vast army at Oswestry. Owen, on the contrary, collected all the chieftains and their dependents at Corwen. The two armies met on the banks of the Ceiriog. The conflict was obstinate and bloody, and numbers of brave men perished. In the end the Welsh retired to Corwen. Henry reached the summit of the Berwyn, but was so distressed by dreadful rains, and by the activity and prudence of Owen, who cut him off from all supplies, that he was obliged to return ingloriously, with considerable loss of men and equipage. The place is still called _Adwyâr Beddau_, or the Pass of the Gravesâof the men who were slain there. The remains of Offaâs Dyke, the ancient boundary between England and Wales, are still visible near the castle, and may be traced a considerable distance through the park. The Vale of the Ceiriog at Chirk, like that of the Dee between Chirk and Llangollen, is distinguished by two specimens of architectural skill and enterprise, each valley being crossed by the Ellesmere Canal and the Shrewsbury and Chester Railway, upon long ranges of arches, at a considerable elevation. The aqueducts of Chirk and Pont y Cysylltau have long been the objects of general admiration, but for elegance of design, as well as magnitude, they must now yield the palm to the viaducts of the railway, which are, in truth, most noble structures. In this lovely village we put up at the Chirk Castle Arms to take luncheon, which was served with much civilityâcold meat, a cream salad, and a capital Cheshire cheese, with the best of Shropshire ale. This excellent inn is kept by Mr. Moses. After proceeding about a mile and a half on the Llangollen Road, and leaving Wynnstay, the noble mansion of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, Bart., M.P., on the right, we were conducted along the banks of a beautiful canal (the same that crosses the valley at Chirk), which was here planted with laurel and hazel in pleasing variety on either side. On a sudden, an opening in the foliage presented us with a splendid view of the Vale of the Dee, with the two noble structures, the viaduct and aqueduct, gracefully stretching from hill to hill, and the waters of the river making their way amongst the broken rocks and embowering trees, and rolling under their arches with that delightful sound which is only heard in mountain scenery. Seldom had I experienced so delightful a sensation as the present prospect occasioned. All was so calm, so quiet, it seemed, indeed, âthe Happy Valley.â Shortly after, however, we found that no golden pleasure is entirely free from alloy, for on turning a projection upon the road, we were nearly stifled from a lime furnace, and what was worse, another and another still succeeded, resembling a line of batteries blazing and vomiting forth smoke and destruction, while upon the opposite mountain an uniform body of iron works were firing away from their tall chimneys, and steadily maintained the never-ceasing conflict. At length, however, having happily passed these belligerents, my companion led me in triumph into a little public house on the road side, which overlooked a precipice, the _Aqueduct Tavern_, the exterior of which promised little better accommodation than is met with in an Irish cabin. We entered, nevertheless, and although the floor was of brick, it was very clean, and the household utensils glittered along the walls. âPray, gentlemen, walk into the back parlour,â said a comely-looking, good-natured landlady of forty-three. We gladly accepted her invitation, and were agreeably surprised to find a neat room, carpeted, with a sofa, and half-a-dozen hair-bottomed chairs, and every thing rurally comfortable. The window looked upon the aqueduct, and commanded a beautiful prospect. Having discussed our beverage, and lighted cigars, we quitted the comfortable little cottage, and bent our steps towards the aqueduct, to cross by it to the opposite side of the Vale. A cigar in the cool of the evening is delightful,â âGlorious tobacco, that from east to west, Cheers the tarâs labour, and the Turk-manâs rest.â So sang the noble bard, the music of whose lyre is left to charm the race of mankind for ages yet to come. We soon reached the centre of the aqueduct; it extends, from hill to hill, in length 980 feet; it is sustained by twenty piers, 115 feet in height from the bed of the river Dee, and the span of the arches is forty-five feet. The length of the viaduct is 1,538 feet; its height 147 feet, the number of arches nineteen, and the span of each arch is sixty feet. I never felt the influence of the sublime mingled with the beautiful so deeply as when I stood upon this wonderful work of art; wherever I turned my eyes the scene was calculated to excite the warmest feelings of admiration. The Dee flowing beneath, shadowed by the rich tints of the summer foliage; the ruined bridge; the dark mountain masses upon either side, patched with gloomy pines, intermingled with the relieving brightness of the graceful larch. Here waves the lovely blooming heather, there stands the blasted rock in its naked majesty, the noble amphitheatre at the extremity of the vale, with a distant view of the viaduct; the twittering of the birds, as they settled to repose upon the trees around, altogether gave a charm to the evening which can only be felt while witnessing the scene, and which exceeds the power of description. Having crossed the aqueduct, we proceeded by the left bank of the canal, passing a forge, that nearly stifled us with gaseous smoke, along a pathway made of cinders and small coal, the refuse of the adjacent iron-smelting foundry. Trees of every description hung over our heads, and sloped down a deep declivity to the margin of the Dee, while on the opposite bank the mountain frowned above us. The partial glances we obtained of the vale through the woods, discovered scenes which the artistâs fancy might vainly attempt to equal. At length we reached the Bridge of Llangollen, whence the river is seen to great advantage, tumbling over its rocky bed, and rushing beneath the dark shelter of the over-hanging trees. The village is small, and contains two respectable hotels, viz., the Hand, at which we stopped by the advice of my companion, and the Royal Hotel. We were shown into a very good parlour, and after ordering a tea and supper dinner, my friend, somewhat exhausted by the dayâs march, flung himself upon a sofa, while I resumed my journal, and soon afterwards retired to my bed-room, where the murmurs of the flowing Dee were distinctly heard beneath the window. âHere I am, then,â said I, soliloquising, as I pressed the pillow; âhere am I, at length, in the Vale of Llangollen; in the village of Llangollen,âa spot which I have so often longed to visit!â âFlow on, thou shining river!â and in a few moments I sank soundly to sleep. CHAPTER II. Plas Newydd.âCastell Dinas BrÃ¢n.âValle Crucis Abbey.âPillar of Eliseg.âVale of the Dee.âCorwen.âRoute to Llandrillo.âVale of Edeyrnion.âArrival at Bala. âI crossed in its beauty the Deeâs druid water, The waves as I passed rippled lonely and lone, For the brave on their borders had perished in slaughter, The noble were banished, the gifted were gone.â W. WIFFEN. I WAS dreaming of home, and happiness, and a thousand lovely things, when I was awakened by my new acquaintance, who stood before me dressed for a sturdy walk. âA lovely morning,â said my companion, rubbing his hands with much delight; âcome, bustle, bustle, my young friend; you are not in London, now. Permit me to open the lattice; you will find no perfume at your chamber window in town like this; and, as he spoke, he flung open the casement, and a rush of fragrance poured into the room from hundreds of roses that clustered upon the wall without; nor was my friend at all deficient in praising its sweetness, for, taking a long breath, he stood, for a moment, with his mouth wide open, and then sent forth a sigh, long enough to form a bridge over the river for the fairies to cross upon. âShall we breakfast before we set out upon our ramble? I think we had better give orders for it, and visit the cottage where Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby so long resided, while it is preparing.â This being agreed to, we gave directions for a breakfast, that would enable us to undergo the subsequent fatigue with cheerfulness, and then struck into the road for Plas Newydd. This memorable little dwelling is pleasantly situated upon a rising knoll, and commands a delightful prospect of mountain scenery. [Picture: Font in the Grounds of PlÃ¢s Newydd] The front of the cottage is ornamented with an oaken palisade, curiously carved with grotesque figures, giving a very tasty and aristocratic appearance to the building. At the back of the house is a neat grass plot, with a birdcote, where the robins find a grateful shelter in the winter season, and where the ladies fed them every morning. It is surrounded with a fence of evergreens. From thence, the gardener conducted us under an archway, to a very pleasant and winding path, which leads to a well-stocked fruit garden. We then descended by a shady walk, arched over with tall trees, to the primrose vale, through which a refreshing stream rushes over rocks, where the sun but rarely gilds it with its beams. It is a delightful cool retreat, and well calculated to awaken the dormant spirit of poesy, in any heart where it had ever deigned to dwell. We passed over a rustic bridge which led us to the verandah, from which we had a fine view of the valley, and the Pengwern and Berwyn Mountains; and then proceeding a little farther up the glen, we seated ourselves opposite a most picturesque font, brought hither from the ruins of Valle Crucis, by the late proprietors of this spot. It is enclosed in a small arched niche, and supplied with the purest water from a murmuring rill, which falls in a thin stream into the bowl, a draught from which is an exquisite treatâfor _water_ drinkers. The flower garden is laid out with great taste, and the little circular dairy, sunk in the ground, on the left at the front entrance, gives a most pleasing and picturesque effect. Altogether it is a place to which any person, wearied with the bustle of society, would willingly fly for refuge, and find repose. Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby were young ladies of beauty and rank, who loved each other with so true an affection that they could never bear the afflicting idea of a separation which the marriage of either might occasion. They, therefore, resolved upon lives of celibacy, refusing many handsome offers, and remaining deaf to the persuasions of their friends, they retired to the beautiful Vale of Llangollen to enjoy the happiness of each otherâs company, that as their friendship began in infancy it might be perpetuated through life. These celebrated ladies were the pride of Llangollen for more than half a century, and by their numerous charities and general kindness of disposition, had endeared themselves to the hearts of the whole neighbourhood. It is worthy of remark that during the long period of their residence in Wales, they never, for a single night slept from home. They occasionally visited the theatres at Wrexham and Oswestry, on charitable occasions, or when a âstarâ was engaged; but their invariable custom was to return home after the performances, whatever might be the state of the weather. In the lively Memoirs of the late Mr. Charles Matthews, the celebrated comedian, is the following description of âthe Ladies of Llangollen,â but it must be remembered that at that time âAge, with stealing, stealing steps, Had clawed them in his clutch.â âOSWESTRY, Sept. 4, 1820. âThe dear inseparable inimitables, Lady Butler and Miss Ponsonby were in the boxes here on Friday. They came twelve miles from Llangollen, and returned, as they never sleep from home. Oh! such curiosities! I was nearly convulsed. I could scarcely get on for the first ten minutes after my eye caught them. Though I had never seen them, I instantly knew them. As they are seated, there is not one point to distinguish them from men; the dressing and powdering of the hair; their well-starched neckcloths; the upper part of their habits, which they always wear even at a dinner-party, made precisely like menâs coats, and regular black beaver hats. They exactly looked like two respectable superannuated clergymen.â In returning through the churchyard we passed the monument to the memory of Lady Eleanor Butler, Miss Ponsonby, and their faithful servant, Mary Carroll. The church is of considerable antiquity, but has very little left of architectural beauty; some fine carvings on the roof and in the interior still attest its former consequence. It is noteworthy, however, inasmuch as the remains of the saint to whom it is dedicated are buried under its sacred roof. Pennant gives his name in full, which is _Saint Collen ab Gwynnawg_, _ab Clydawg_, _ab Cowrda_, _ab Caradog Vreicvhras_, _ab Llyr Merim_, _ab Einion Yrth_, _ab Cunedda Wledig_, by _Ethni Wyddeles_, daughter to _Matholwch_, lord of _Cwl_, in the kingdom of _Ireland_. We now returned with good appetites to do justice to the fare provided by our host of the Hand, and here I was first destined to hear the sounds of the Welsh harp. As we discussed our fare, the harper in the hall played up his liveliest tunes. Breakfast being despatched, we slung our pistols, _i.e._, leathern bottles, filled with _eau de vie_, to our sides, and started to view the ruins of Dinas BrÃ¢n, an ancient fortress up the summit of a conical mountain, which forms the principal feature of this portion of the vale, and is indeed a striking object from almost every part of the neighbourhood. The ascent begins near the foot of the ancient bridge opposite to the town, which was built in the early part of the fourteenth century, by the first John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph. The view through the arches, either up or down the river, is extremely picturesque. My companion was strongly built, and being accustomed to rambling amongst the Welsh vales and over its steepest mountains, far outstripped me in the ascent, which was by no means easy. We took a zig-zag direction up the hill, which was too precipitous to mount in a direct way, and as we approached the summit the ascent became more difficult; at length, after some little toil, we stood by the side of the _Well_, whose pure water gave joy to the inhabitants of this ancient fortress many hundred years ago, and still offers a welcome draught to the pilgrim who possesses sufficient perseverance to seek it. The view from the summit of this mountain is beautiful in the extreme; commanding the vale east to west, with the widely spreading plains beyond its eastern extremity, and the grand and picturesque mountain scenery which forms the western boundary. Chirk Castle, Wynnstay, Valle Crucis Abbey, and Glyndwrdu, are distinctly visible from this elevation, while the romantic Dee is seen winding beneath, in light and shadow beautifully varied by the hills and woods that droop over its banks. CASTELL DINAS BRAN. The present remains of this ancient fortress are a few scattered walls. There is little doubt that it is of British origin, but the period of its erection, as well as the name of its founder is buried in oblivion. The original dimensions of its walls were about 300 feet long and 150 feet broad. [Picture: Castell Dinas BrÃ¢n] In the reign of Henry the Third it afforded an asylum from his enraged countrymen to Gruffydd ab Madoc, who basely betrayed his country to that monarch. In 1390 this castle was inhabited by Myvanwy Vechan, a most beautiful and accomplished female. She was of the house of Tudor Trevor, and
{'title': "The Tourist's Guide through North Wales by G. J. Bennett", 'source': 'Project Gutenberg', 'lang': 'en'}