Produced by Carlo Traverso, Annika Feilbach and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr) [Transcriber's note: This text contains the unicode characters Ä, Ä, Ä, Ä, Å and Å in a few places. If any of these characters do not display for you properly, please see the Latin-1 text version for a transcription. Some inconsistencies in the dates have been corrected in chapters XV and XVI: September 29th changed to August 29th, October 1st to September 1st, and October 4th to September 4th.] NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA PERFORMED IN THE YEARS 1850-51, UNDER THE ORDERS AND AT THE EXPENSE OF HER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. BY THE LATE JAMES RICHARDSON, AUTHOR OF "TRAVELS IN THE GREAT DESERT OF SAHARA." IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193 PICADILLY. MDCCCLIII. LONDON: Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq. PREFACE. The task of the Editor of these volumes has been principally one of arrangement and compression. The late lamented Mr. James Richardson left behind him a copious journal, comprised in eight small but closely-written volumes, besides a vast heap of despatches and scattered memoranda; and, at first sight, it seemed to me that it would be necessary to melt the whole down into a narrative in the third person. On attentively studying the materials before me, however, I perceived that Mr. Richardson had written in most places with a view to publication; and that, had he lived, he would soon have brought what, on a cursory examination, appeared a mere chaotic mass, into a shape that would have accorded with his own idea of a book of travels. Such being the case, I thought it best--in order to leave the stamp of authenticity on this singular record of enterprise--to do little more than the author would himself have done. In the form of a diary, therefore--written sometimes with Oriental _naÃ¯vetÃ©_--the reader will here find what may be called the domestic history of one of the most successful expeditions undertaken for the exploration of Central Africa. I believe it would have been possible to get up a work of more temporary interest from the same materials; but this could only have been done by sacrificing truthfulness of detail. In the present form, Mr. Richardson's journal will always remain as an authority on the geography and present condition of a large portion of the Saharan desert, hitherto unvisited, at any rate undescribed. As will be seen, the Mission was accompanied by two German gentlemen, Drs. Barth and Overweg--the former, of whom I had the pleasure of meeting in Egypt, after his enterprising ride along the coast of Libya. They are still in Central Africa, pushing their excursions on all sides, from Bornou into unknown tracts; and the accounts they may publish on their return will be anxiously looked for. The great traverse of the Saharan desert, however, with all its vicissitudes and dangers, the physical aspect of that wonderful region, and the manners of the various tribes that inhabit it, will, in the present volume, be found to be fully described--not, it is true, with much attempt at literary ornament, but in the vivid though simple language in which a man sets down impressions which he has just received. I have endeavoured to remove all the faults which may be supposed to have arisen from haste or carelessness, and have necessarily re-written several passages, and passed a correcting pen over the whole manuscript. But I think I may say with confidence, that there is no observation or statement in the following pages which cannot be justified by a reference to the original journals and scattered memoranda. To me this simple record of daily occurrences seems highly interesting. It divides itself, naturally, into a succession of parts of unequal importance. First comes an account of the journey to Mourzuk, the capital of Fezzan, containing the traverse of the frightful Hamadah or plateau which separates that province from the regency of Tripoli. Then we have a residence at Mourzuk itself, Mr. Richardson being obliged to wait the arrival from GhÃ¢t of an escort of Tuarick chieftains, with whom he had partly made acquaintance during a former trip in the desert. This escort appeared after some delay; and the Mission proceeded across the Fezzan plains to the independent state of GhÃ¢t, through a very wild and picturesque country. At this point began, if not the most arduous, at any rate the most dangerous, and at the same time the most novel, part of the journey. Mr. Richardson had undertaken, on his way to Soudan Proper (his first destination), to pass by the hitherto unexplored kingdom of Aheer or Asben, situated towards the southern limits of the Sahara. The march of the Mission across the deserts that lie between GhÃ¢t and that territory was rendered exciting by continual reports of danger from pursuing freebooters of the Haghar and Azgher tribes; but the enemy were outstripped, and no actual attack took place until the first inhabited districts of Aheer were reached. Here some lawless tribes levied black-mail, on the caravan, which was then permitted to proceed, though in doubt and alarm, until it arrived under the long-expected protection of Sheikh En-Noor, one of the great chiefs of the Kailouee tribes, at his town, or rather encampment, of Tintalous. Mr. Richardson's residence at this place was long and tedious. He suffered, besides, from the extortionate disposition of the Sheikh or Sultan, who, however, after considerable exactions, became his friend. This Saharan character is brought out by a succession of amusing touches. But our traveller was impatient to proceed, and seems to have hailed with delight the announcement that the great Salt-Caravan, which annually transports the necessary condiment from Bilma _viÃ¢_ Aheer to the south, was about to start, and that the Sheikh and the Christians were to accompany it. Some further disappointments occurred, but at length the Mission proceeded to Damerghou, whence Drs. Barth and Overweg went, one to Maradee and the other to Kanou, whilst Mr. Richardson proceeded alone to Zinder, situated in the province of Damagram. Here he was well received by the Sarkee, or Governor, and he dilates with well-founded exultation on his escape from the insolent and rapacious Tuaricks. Sad sights, however, connected with the slave-trade, checked his delight. During his stay the Sarkee went out in person to hunt down the subjects of his own sovereign, that he might pay his debts by selling them into captivity. After another considerable delay Mr. Richardson was enabled to start once more, and being obliged to change his original plan proceeded to Kuka, the capital of Bornou, by way of Minyo. Shortly after leaving Gurai, the chief town of that province, the unfortunate traveller found his strength to be gradually giving way. He had already previously complained of the heat and fatigue, but did not seem to have felt any great alarm. Now, however, the climate seems to have told upon him with sudden and fatal violence. His last moments are described in a letter from his fellow-traveller, Dr. Barth, who hastened to the spot with laudable energy as soon as he heard of the melancholy catastrophe that had taken place. Mr. Richardson died at Ungurutua, about six days' journey from Kuka, the capital of Bornou, on the 4th of March, 1851, eleven months after his departure from Tripoli. I have observed that the Mission, the first transactions of which are described in these volumes, is entitled to be called successful. Although the original promoter and director died just as he was on the point of reaching the termination of his journey, his enterprising companions, Drs. Barth and Overweg, seem to have carried on and developed admirably the plan at first laid down. If they be spared to return to Europe they will bring home, no doubt, geographical information so valuable that all Mr. Richardson's predictions will be found to be amply fulfilled. As it is, however, the object of our practical fellow-countryman may be said to have been accomplished. He did not lay so much stress on the accurate determination of latitude and longitude, of the heights of mountains and the courses of valleys, as on matters that come more nearly home to human sympathies. The abolition of the system of slavery--many affecting illustrations of which will be found in these volumes--seems to have engaged the chief of his attention. It was with this benevolent object that he originally turned his attention to Africa; and he had become convinced that the best means of effecting it was to encourage legitimate traffic between Europe and the great nurseries of slaves. Among other things, he wished to show the possibility of entering into treaties of amity and commerce with the most important states of Central Africa; and although these treaties may not turn out to be of great immediate utility, it is always worth while that future explorers should know, that on the borders of Lake Tchad there is a power which professes to be united with England in formal ties of friendship, and that the Sultan of Bornou has never shown any disposition to break his promises or secede from his engagements. As to the question, whether legitimate commerce can advantageously be carried on across the Sahara, and substituted for the frightful traffic in human beings, I do not consider that it is as yet decided; but Mr. Richardson's researches will throw great light on this interesting subject. I do not intend here to attempt an account of the services rendered by Mr. Richardson to the sciences of geography and ethnography during his useful career. At some future period, no doubt, this task will be performed; and it will not fail to be added, that he was always impelled by a higher motive than the mere satisfaction of curiosity or ambition. A profound conviction that something might be done towards ameliorating the condition of the African nations, if we were only better acquainted with them, seems to have early possessed him. This it was that sustained and guided his footsteps; and all who knew him unite in testifying that he concealed beneath a pleasant, cheerful exterior, the character of a Christian gentleman, and an ardent crusader against the worst form of oppression which has ever been put in practice. The hope that the public will unite in this opinion must certainly assist in consoling his widow for the loss which she has sustained. Mrs. Richardson is alluded to in the narrative throughout. It is necessary, therefore, to say, that that lady remained in Tripoli until the news of her bereavement reached her, and that she then returned to England to promote the erection of this best monument to her husband's memory. I have now only to add an account written by Dr. Barth (dated April 3, 1851) of the death of Mr. Richardson, in a letter addressed to Mr. Crowe, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul-General at Tripoli. The German traveller, as will be seen in the second volume of this work, had separated from his English companions on the plains of Damerghou, and proceeded to prosecute other researches, the results of which will be looked for with great interest:-- "It was on the 25th of March," he says, "that I heard accidentally from a Shereef, whom I met on the road, the sad news that my companion had died, about twenty days before, in a place called Ungurutua, six days' journey before reaching Kuka, when I hurried on as fast as my horse would allow in order to secure his papers and effects from being lost or destroyed. "I now shall send you a short account of Mr. Richardson's death, as far as I was able to make out the circumstances from his servant. Mr. Richardson is said to have left Zinder in the best health, though it is probable that he felt already very weak while he was there: for, according to the man whom he hired in Zinder as his dragoman, he had, while there, a dream that a bird came down from the sky, and when sitting on the branch of a tree, the branch broke off and the bird fell down to the earth. Mr. Richardson being very much affected by this dream, went to a man who from a huge book explains to the people their dreams. On the man's telling him that his dream meant death, he seems really to have anticipated that he would not reach the principal object of his journey. But, nevertheless, he seemed to be quite well, mounting even the horse which the Governor of Zinder had made him a present of, as far as Minyo, when he begged the Governor to give him a camel, which he mounted thenceforward. He felt notoriously ill in Kadalebria, eleven or twelve days' journey from here (Kuka); and he is said by his servant to have taken different kinds of medicines, one after the other: from which you may conclude that he did not know himself what was his illness. Mr. Richardson never could bear the sun, and the sun being very powerful at this time of the year, it must have affected him very much. I think this to be the chief reason of his death; at least, he seems not to have had a regular fever. He was happy to reach the large town of Rangarvia after a journey of three short days, and had the intention of returning from here directly to Tripoli, without touching at Kuka and the low, hot plain of Bornou, which he was affrightened of very much. He offered two hundred mahboubs for a guide to conduct him directly to the road to Bilma; but there being no road from here, and no guide having been found, it was necessary first to go to Kuka. "Mr. Richardson, therefore, seems to have taken strong medicines; in consequence of which, in the evening of the third day of their halt at Rangarvia, after having taken a walk through the town, he felt well enough to fix his outset for the next morning. But this day being rather a long one, and the sun being very powerful, he became very tired and unwell; and the more so as, notwithstanding his illness, he had not left off drinking milk, even on his camel, mixing some brandy with it. Having recovered a little during the night, he moved on the next morning, but ordered a halt about noon, on account of his weakness. Having started again at sunset, they encamped at midnight. The next day, after a short journey, they reached the Wady Mettaka. Mr. Richardson seemed to feel much better, and drank milk and a little jura, besides rice. From this place, on the last day of Kebia-el-awel, the caravan, after but a two-hours' march, reached the village called Ungurutua, when Mr. Richardson soon felt so weak that he anticipated his death; and leaving the hut (where he was established) for his tent, told his dragoman, Mahommed Bu Saad, that he would die. Being consoled by him that his illness was of no consequence, he assured him several times that he had no strength at all; and indeed his pulse ceased almost to beat. He began, then, to rub his feet with vinegar, and applied the same several times to his head and shoulders. After which, in the absence of his servants, he poured water also over himself; so that, when they returned after a few moments, they found him quite wet. To counteract the bad effect of this proceeding, they began to rub him with a little oil. In the evening he took a little food, and tried to sleep; but notwithstanding that he seems to have taken something to bring on sleep, he threw himself restless from one side to the other, calling his wife several times by her name. After having walked out of his tent with the assistance of his servant, he ordered tea, and remained restless on his bed. When it was past midnight, his old dragoman, Yusuf Moknee, who watched in his tent, made some coffee, in order to keep himself awake; upon which Mr. Richardson demanded a cup of coffee for himself; but his hand being so weak that he could scarcely raise the cup, he said to Moknee: '_Tergamento Ufa_,'--'Your office as dragoman is finished;' and repeated several times, with a broken voice, '_Forza mafishe, forza mafishe le-koul_,'--'I have no strength, I have no strength, I tell you,' at the same time laying Mahommed's hand on his shoulder. Feeling death approaching, he got up in a sitting posture, being supported by Mahommed, and soon expired, after three times deep breathing. He was entirely worn out, and died quietly, about two after midnight, Tuesday, 4th March (Jumed-el-awel), without the least struggle. His servant then called into the tent the other people and the Kashalla, or officer of the Sheikh, who had come along with them from Zinder, in order to be witness, and while wrapping the body of the deceased in three shirts which they had cut up, ordered the people of the village to dig a grave for him. They then shut up whatever of the luggage of Mr. Richardson was not locked up, and prepared everything for their journey to Kuka. Early in the morning they lifted the body, wrapped up as it was, upon Mr. Richardson's carpet, and carried him to his grave, which had been dug in the shade of a large gaw, close to the village, to the depth of four feet. Having then covered his head and breast with a very large tabah, so as to protect it from every side, they covered the body with earth, and had the grave well secured. I have spoken several times with Haj Beshir that it might be well taken care of, and I am sure the grave of the traveller, who sacrificed his life for his great object, will be respected. I send you with this first kafila all Mr. Richardson's papers and his journal, which is kept till the 21st February, consisting of six reams, and his vocabularies, not finished, four reams, with Yusuf's journal, as well as all his other papers or letters. I have taken out only the letters of recommendation of the Mission and the papers concerning the treaty to be made, as well as a letter from Lousou, one of the Tuaricks, and another from Ibrahim, the Governor of Zinder, to the Queen, which I shall enclose in my report to Government. I send you, besides, an authentic list of all the objects found in Mr. Richardson's possession, as it has been made up on the things being deposited with Haj Beshir. "I beg you to assure Mrs. Richardson of my most sincere sympathy, and that I hope she will find a good deal of consolation in the rich journal of the deceased." I have given the above narrative in the words of Dr. Barth; but must direct the reader's attention to vol. ii. p. 261, where he will find that the whole account of the prophetic dream is distorted by the very unauthentic medium of Oriental report. There is no reason to suppose that Mr. Richardson was unusually affected by this circumstance, although any dismal suggestion is likely to disturb a person of sensibility placed in a dangerous position. The remaining facts, as they seem confirmed by concurrent testimony, may be taken as a sufficiently accurate account of the death of this lamented traveller. From the statements which have from time to time appeared in the press, the public are already aware, that the presents and the treaty intended for the Sheikh of Bornou were duly presented and accepted, and that the boat which caused Mr. Richardson so much anxiety on the road was ultimately launched, as he desired, on lake Tchad, and employed in the survey of that celebrated piece of water. It is unnecessary here to notice the results of this survey, or of the explorations subsequently undertaken by Messrs. Barth and Overweg. These gentlemen, it is to be hoped, will be more fortunate than their colleague, and return to give in person an account of their exertions and discoveries. I shall conclude by expressing my hope that Mr. Richardson's reputation will not suffer from the way in which I have superintended the publication of his remains, and my regret that I am not able to do justice to the great services which he has rendered to philology by his copious collections of vocabularies of the languages, both of the Sahara and of the various kingdoms of Central Africa. BAYLE ST. JOHN, _London, January 1853._ P.S. It may be as well to mention that the extensive collections of vocabularies made by Mr. Richardson are now preserved at the Foreign Office, together with specimens of translations from the Scriptures. All these collections are extremely valuable, but especially those of the Bornou language, which were much wanted. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival at Tripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for Lake Tchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk and GhÃ¢t--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--An aristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacks returning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Desert travelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans from Central Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimate Traffic--Spread of Civilisation. CHAPTER II. Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A Family Quarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two mad Fellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--The Castle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--Turkish Tax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the lofty Plain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A Slave Caravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--Double Village--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A Pocket Province--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character of Fezzanees--A Leopard abroad. CHAPTER III. Leave Mizdah--Gloomy Country--Matrimonial Squabbles in the Caravan--"Playing at Powder"--Desert Geology--A Roman Mausoleum--Sport--A Bully tamed--Fatiguing March--Wady Taghijah--Our old Friend the Ethel-Tree--The Waled Bou Seif--Independent Arabs--A splendid Mausoleum--One of the Nagahs foals--Division of a Goat--March over a monotonous Country--Valley of Amjam--Two new Trees--Saluting the New Moon--Sight the Plateau of the Hamadah--Wady Tubooneeah--Travelling Flies--The Desert Hour--A secluded Oasis--Buying Barley--Ghareeah--Roman Remains--Oasian Cultivation--Taxation--Sand-Pillar--Arrangements for crossing the Hamadah--An _Emeute_ in the Caravan--Are compelled to discharge the quarrelsome Ali. CHAPTER IV. Commence crossing the Hamadah--Last Pillar of the Romans--Travelling in the Desert--Rapid March--Merry Blacks--Dawn--Temperature--Ali returns--Day-travelling--Night-feelings--Animals--Graves of Children--Mirage--Extent of the Plateau--It breaks up--Valley of El-Hasee--Farewell to the Hamadah--Arduous Journey--The Camel-drivers--New Country--Moral and religious Disquisitions--The Chaouches--Reach Edree--Abd-el-Galeel--Description of Edree--Subterranean Dwellings--Playing at Powder--The KaÃ¯d--Arabic Literature--Desertion of the Zintanah--Leave Edree--Sandy Desert--Bou Keta the Camel-driver--Wady El-Makmak--The Lizard--Reach Wady Takadafah--Sand--Another _Embroglio_. CHAPTER V. More sandy Desert--Fatiguing March--Water and Herbage--Water-drinking--Sight the Plateau over the Mourzuk--Hot Wind--Arrival in El-Wady--Tuaricks--Laghareefah--Fezzanees--The Chaouches astray--The Sheikh Abd-el-Hady--Description of the Oasis--Tempest--Native Huts--Official Visits--Desert News--Camel-drivers--Ruins of Azerna--Move on--The KaÃ¯d--Modest Requests--Ladies of the Wady--Leave the Oasis--Vast Plain--Instinct of the Camel--Reach Agar--Reception--Precede the Caravan--Reach Mourzuk--Mr. Gagliuffi--Honours paid to the Mission--Acting Pasha--Climate--Route from Tripoli--Its Division into Zones--Rain in the Desert. CHAPTER VI. The Oasis of Fezzan--Population--Ten Districts--Their Denomination and Condition--Sockna--Honn--Worm of the Natron Lakes--Zoueelah--Mixed Race--Improvements in Mourzuk--Heavy Ottoman Yoke--Results of the Census--Amount of Revenue--Military Force--Arab Cavaliers--Barracks--Method of Recruiting--Turkish System superior to French--Razzias--Population of Mourzuk--Annual Market--Articles of Traffic--Acting-Governor and his Coadjutors--Story of a faithless Woman--Transit Duties in Fezzan--Slave Trade--Sulphur in the Syrtis--Proposed Colony from Malta. CHAPTER VII. DIARY OF A RESIDENCE AT MOURZUK. Sickness of Gagliuffi--Baggage left at Mizdah--Runthar Aga--The Hospital--Various Visits--Arrival of the New Governor--Animated Scene--Correspondence--Visit Mustapha Agha--Bragging Sheikh Boro--Tibboos of Tibesty--Curious Country--Presents to Turkish Functionaries--A Woman divorced--Haj Lameen--Presents expected--Brilliant Atmosphere--Water-Melons--The Gardens--Winnowing Grain--Houses of Salt Mud--Nymphs of the Gardens--Wells--Presents to Functionaries--Phrenology--Queen's Birthday--Walks in the Orchards and Gardens--Corn-threshing--Kingdom of Aheer--Ass's Head--A Wedding--A Funeral--Great Dinner--Tibboos--Prepare to depart--The Pilgrim Caravan; its Privileges--Tuat and the French--Departure of Germans--Wife of Es-Sfaxee--An Arab Saying--Letters--Disease--Arrival of Escort--Eastern Consulates--Business--Hateetah--The Son of Shafou--Poor Sheikhs--Hard Bargain. CHAPTER VIII. Wars in the Interior--Anticipated Disputes--Mr. Boro of Aghadez--Our Treatment at Mourzuk--Mustapha Bey--Start for GhÃ¢t--Row with the Escort--Fine Weather--Leave Tesaoua--Sharaba--Travelling in the Heat--Hateetah and the Germans--The Camels--Snakes--Journey continued--Nature of the Country--Complete Desert--Rain--Overtake the Caravan--Interview with Boro--Pool of Ailouah--The Tanelkums--Halt--Birds--Bir Engleez--Wind in the Desert--Begging Escort--Brilliant Heavens--News from GhÃ¢t--The Pilgrims again--Bas-relief of Talazaghe--Moved over the Desert--Mountains--Extraordinary Pass--Central Table-land of Fezzan. CHAPTER IX. Plain of Taeeta--Fezzan Boundary--Fossils--Tuarick Behaviour--Valley of Tabea--Observations--Fasting--Tuarick Habits--Scorpions and Locusts--Visitors--Heat--Roads--Hot Wind--Pass of Abulaghlagh--The Palace of Demons--Wheat hid in the Desert--Land of Demons--Kasar Janoon--A dear Camel--Visit to the Kasar--Perilous Adventure of Dr. Barth. CHAPTER X. Approach GhÃ¢t--Description of the Town--The Oasis--Reminiscences of a former Visit--Azgher Tuaricks--The Governor--Political Authority--The Sheikhs--Protection of Strangers--The Litham--Business--Reception--Meetings of Sheikhs--Disputes--Tax on liberated Slaves--Extortion practised on us--Discussion on the Treaty--Scramble for Presents--Haj Ahmed disinterested--Hateetah plays double--More Presents and further Annoyances--Mahommed Kafa--Escort of Kailouees--A Visit from Ouweek and the Bandit of Ghadamez--Observations on the Treaty--Collection of Dialogues--The Great Exhibition. CHAPTER XI. Start from GhÃ¢t--Reflections--Beautiful Valley of Berket--Last Date-palms--The Kailouees--Dr. Barth lost again--Meet our Guides--The Akourou Water--Ghadeer--Soudan Influence on the Tuaricks--Wataitee leaves us--Oasis of Janet--Kailouee Character--A sick Slave--Rocky Desert--Gloomy Scene--Servants--Egheree Water--Ajunjer--A threatened Foray from Janet--Sidi Jafel Waled Sakertaf--We have no Money--Region of Granite--Dr. Barth's Comparisons--A Slave Caravan--Granite Rocks--Beating Women--The Bird of the Desert--Desolate Region--Our Relations with the Kailouees. CHAPTER XII. Reach Falezlez--Dates left in the Desert--Road-marks--Disputes with the Kailouees--News from Tidek--Scarcity of Food in Aheer--Similitudes and Signs of the Tuaricks--Fine Climate--Arrival of Wataitee--His Boasting--Saharan travelling--My Umbrella--Grasping Son of Shafou--Geology of the Desert--The "Person who gives"--Another Caravan--Tuarick Sportsmen--Wady Aroukeen--Fine Scene--New Trees--Kailouee Camels--Fine Nights--Well--New Moon--Passing a Caravan in the Desert--Origin of the Kailouee Tuaricks--Arrive at Tajetterat--No Robbers--An Alarm--Well of Esalan--Senna--Birds--Graves of Slave Children--Our Grievances against the Tuaricks. CHAPTER XIII. News of Sidi Jafel--Disputes with Wataitee--His violent Conduct and strange Language--The Desert--Scarcity of Money--Proceed through a rocky Country--Soudan Weather--Approach the Frontiers of Aheer--Storm--Hard Day's Travelling--The Seven Wells of Aisou--"The Haghar are coming"--Suspicious Characters--Alarm--The Three Strangers--Our Hospitality--Heat of the Weather--Hard Travelling--Account of the Kailouee Guides--Women of the Caravan--Their Treatment--Youthful Concubines--Another long Day--A Rock-Altar--Demonstrations of the Haghar--Wells of Jeenanee--Marks of Rain--Sprightly Blacks--New Climate--Change in the Vegetation and the Atmosphere. CHAPTER XIV. Enter the inhabited Districts of Aheer--Hostile Tuaricks--An impudent Demand--The Merchant Waldee--Prepare for Defence--Threatening Appearances--Making Friends with Presents--March--Leave Waldee--Doubtful Visitors--The Camels stolen--The Troop of Assailants draws nigh--Parley--Their Proposition--We are compelled to a Compromise--Character of our Enemies--Sinister Rumours again--Proceed toward Tidek--Wady of Kaltadak--Picturesque Scenery--A Friend from Seloufeeat--Fresh Mob collects to attack us--Conferences--We are to be let go scot-free if we become Muslims--We repose--Another Compromise for Money--Incidents during the Night--Quarrel over the Booty--Enter the Valley of Seloufeeat--Its Soudan Appearance--Nephew of Sultan En-Noor--Haj Bashaw of Seloufeeat--We are still uneasy. CHAPTER XV. Leave Seloufeeat--"City of Marabouts"--Fair Promises--People of Aheer--Aspect of the Country--Extraordinary Reports--A Flying Saint--Prophecies--A Present--Expense of our forced Passage--Hopes--Fears--The Marabouts--Geology--The coming down of the Wady--Inundation--Restoration of our Camels--Maharees from En-Noor--El-Fadeea--Arab Tuaricks--Maghata--Picturesque Wady--Rainy Season--Another Flood--Dangerous Position--Kailouees and Blacks--The Escort arrives--The Marabout Population--Reported Brigands--The Walad Suleiman--Pleasant Valley--Escort leave us--Difficulty of satisfying them--Robbery--Proceed to Tintalous--Encampment--The Sultan--A Speech--We wait in vain for Supper--Want of Food. CHAPTER XVI. Promises of the Sultan--Yellow-painted Women--Presents--Anecdotes--Prepare to visit En-Noor--Our Reception--Dialogue--Seeming Liberality of the Sultan--Greediness of his People--No Provisions to be got--Fat Women--Nephew of the Sultan--Tanelkum Beggars--Weather--A Divorced Lady--Aheer Money--Our Camels again stolen--Account of the Tanelkums--Huckster Women--Aheer Landscape--Various Causes of Annoyance--No News of the Camels--Anecdote of my Servants--Storms--Revolution in the Desert--Name of the Country--Dr. Overweg--Money and Tin--Saharan Signs--Habits of the Rain--Burial of a Woman--Demands of Es-Sfaxee--Salt-cakes of Bilma--People of Tintalous--Wild Animals--List of Towns and Villages--Population of Aheer and GhÃ¢t. CHAPTER XVII. Zinder Caravan--Negress playing "Boree"--Curious Scene--Objects of Barter--Fresh Annoyances--Remarks on our Reception in Aheer--En-Noor--Asoudee--Better News--Fresh Extortions--En-Noor disappoints us--Europeans taken for Spies--Things in demand at Aheer--Exercise--Overweg's Patients--Wild Animals in Aheer--Kailouees in dry Weather--Robbing a Prince--Ghaseb and Ghafouley--Aheer Cheese--Mokhlah Bou Yeldee--Our Wealth noised abroad--Alarm at Night--A fresh Attack--SaÃ¯d's Gallantry--Disorderly Protectors--Thirteen Robbers--Amankee--Loss of my Tea--Country of Thieves. CHAPTER XVIII. We shift our Encampment--En-Noor's Circular--The Kadi's Decision--No Progress in the Sahara--Aghadez Gumruk--Scorpions--Election of Sultans in Aheer--Present of Salutation--Paying for finding lost Property--Courier from the new Sultan--No Presents sent us--Notes on Denham--A Bornouese Measure--Intended Razzia--Firing off Gunpowder--Hypotheses of Danger--Dress and Women--Enroute to Bilma--Soudan Caravan--Visit from Tintaghoda--Aheer Honey--Modes of Measurement--Power of En-Noor--Visits to him from great People--Stations on the Bilma Road--Salt-Trade--Account of our Pursuers at Tajetterat--Costume of the Kailouees--Their Weapons--Poisoned Arrows--Charms--Female Dress--Names of Articles of Costume--Character of Kailouees. CHAPTER XIX. Rainstorm--Overtures from En-Noor--Another Interview--Aheer Fashions--A great Lady--Hoisting the British Flag--A devoted Slave--Sultan of Asoudee--Attack on a Caravan--Purposed Razzia--Desert News--Buying Wives--A peculiar Salutation--Oasis of Janet--New Razzias--Costume of the Sultan--The Milky Way--Noise at a Wedding--Unquiet Nights--Sickness in the Encampment--A captive Scorpion--Nuptial Festivities--An insolent Haghar--Prejudice about Christians--Movements in Aheer--Bullocks. [Illustration: OUTLINE OF PART OF AFRICA showing progress of the Mission] NARRATIVE OF A MISSION TO CENTRAL AFRICA. CHAPTER I. Origin of the Missions--Its Objects and Plan--Preparations--Arrival at Tripoli--Prussian Colleagues--Necessary Delay--The Boat for Lake Tchad--Wind-bound--Anxieties at Tripoli--Correspondence with Mourzuk and GhÃ¢t--Circular Letter of Izhet Pasha--Composition of the Caravan--An aristocratic Interpreter--A Mohammedan Toper--The Chaouches--Free Blacks returning to their Countries--Marabout--Camel-drivers--Rate of Desert travelling--Trade of Tripoli with the Interior--Slavery--Caravans from Central Africa--Details on Commerce--Promotion of legitimate Traffic--Spread of Civilisation. Since my return from a first tour of exploration in the Great Sahara I had carefully revolved in my mind the possibility of a much greater undertaking, namely, a political and commercial expedition to some of the most important kingdoms of Central Africa. The plan appeared to me feasible; and when I laid it in all its details before her Majesty's Government, they determined, after mature consideration, to empower me to carry it out. Two objects, one principal, necessarily kept somewhat in the background--the abolition of the slave-trade; one subsidiary, and yet important in itself--the promotion of commerce by way of the Great Desert; appeared to me, and to the distinguished persons who promoted the undertaking, of sufficient magnitude to justify considerable sacrifices. Much preliminary discussion took place; but the impediments and difficulties that naturally start up at the commencement of any enterprise possessing the character of novelty were gradually overcome, and in the summer of 1849 it was generally known that I was about to proceed, by way of Tripoli and the Sahara, and the hitherto unexplored kingdom of Aheer, to endeavour to open commercial relations and conclude treaties with any native power so disposed, but especially with the Sultan of Bornou. It was not thought necessary, however, to surround my Mission with any circumstances of diplomatic splendour; and it was still in the character of YakÅb--a name already known throughout the greater portion of the route intended to be traversed--that I proposed to resume my intercourse with the Moors, the Fezzanees, the Tibboos, the Tuaricks, and other tribes and peoples of the desert and the countries beyond. The various preparations for the expedition occupied a considerable time before I could leave Europe; but I shall pass over all account of these, and enter as soon as possible on the plain narrative of my journey. We reached Tripoli on January the 31st, 1850, having come circuitously by way of Algeria and Tunis. Divers reasons, on which it is unnecessary to enlarge, had prevented us from adopting a more direct route. However, there had, properly speaking, been no time lost, and we had still to look forward to inevitable delays. An expedition of the kind we were about to undertake cannot be performed in a hurry, especially in Africa. In that continent everything is carried on in a deliberate manner. The climate is in itself suggestive of procrastination; and no one who has there had to do with officials, even of our own country, until he has himself felt the enervating influence of the atmosphere, can fail to have been held in ludicrous suspense between indignation and surprise. It must here be mentioned that, associated with me in this expedition, were two Prussian gentlemen, Drs. Barth and Overweg, who had volunteered to accompany me in my expedition in the character of scientific observers. The political and commercial nature of my Mission by no means excluded such auxiliaries. It was desirable that every advantage should be taken of this opportunity to explore Central Africa in every point of view; and when the proposition came to me under the sanction of Chevalier Bunsen, and received the approval of her Majesty's Government, I could not but be delighted. It was arranged that these gentlemen should travel at the expense and under the protection of Great Britain, and that their reports should be duly forwarded to the Foreign Office. Drs. Barth and Overweg, with European impetuosity, eager at once to grapple with adventure and research, had pushed on whilst I waited for final instructions from Lord Palmerston. They had arrived at Tripoli about twelve days before me, and, as I afterwards learned, had usefully and pleasantly occupied their time in excursions to the neighbouring mountains, which I had previously visited and examined on my way to Ghadamez. We learned on landing, that a good deal of the anxiety I had felt on account of my slow progress from England had been thrown away. Our arms, instruments, and stores, had not yet arrived from Malta. However, they were promised for an early date, and the hospitable reception afforded us by Mr. Consul-general Crowe, as well as the knowledge that a vast number of small details of preparation could be immediately commenced, contributed to console us. Among the things expected, and which arrived in due time, was a boat built by order of the Government in Malta dockyard. It was sent in two sides, and I wished to carry it in that state. But this proved impossible, and just before starting we were compelled to saw each side into two pieces, which were to be carried slung in nets upon a couple of powerful camels. This boat was expressly intended for the navigation of Lake Tchad.[1] [1] It has since been launched under the British flag, and has proved useful in the examination of the shores of the great lake of Central Africa.--EDITOR. It was universally admired at Tripoli; and, as it will be useless to bring it back, will form a most acceptable present for the Sultan of Bornou. I cannot omit to notice, in passing, the courtesy and attention of the authorities of Malta with whom I have been in communication; they have all done their best to forward the objects of the Mission. A good deal of the delay that took place at Tripoli arose from causes over which it was impossible to exert any control, and principally from the bad weather, which cut off all communication with Malta. We used to go about relating the anecdote of Charles V. illustrative of the inhospitable seasons of this coast. "Which are the best ports of Barbary?" inquired the Emperor of the famous Admiral Dorea. "The months of June, July, and August," was the reply. Whilst waiting for the winds to waft us so many desirable things, we actively engaged in hiring camels, procuring servants, and otherwise making ready for a start. The details of all these preparations, which cost me prodigious anxiety, as I was obliged to study at the same time efficiency and economy, are described in a voluminous mass of correspondence; but I should not think of presenting them to the general public, which will be satisfied probably to know that at length everything was found to be in due order, and our long-expected departure was fixed for the 30th of March. I had taken care, immediately on my arrival at Tripoli, to write to Mr. Gagliuffi, the British Consul at Mourzuk, announcing my approach and enclosing a despatch from the Foreign Office. Moreover I had requested this gentleman at once to send to GhÃ¢t for an escort of Tuaricks, so that we might not be unnecessarily detained in Fezzan; and to suggest that the Sheikhs should be assembled by the time we arrived, that the treaty I had to propose to them might be discussed. My former visit to this place will in some respects pave the way. Throughout the Turkish provinces of Tripoli and Fezzan a circular letter given to us by Izhet Pasha, and the letters of the Bey of Tunis in other quarters, will no doubt prove of some assistance, although such documents must lose much of their influence in the very secluded districts through which we shall be compelled to pass. After all, we must trust principally to our own tact, to the good will of the natives, and to that vague respect of English power which is beginning to spread in the Sahara. The composition of our caravan will of course fluctuate throughout the whole line of route; but I may as well mention the most important personages who were to start with me from Tripoli. Setting aside my colleagues, Barth and Overweg, there was, in the first place, the interpreter, Yusuf Moknee, a man really of some importance among his people, but considering himself with far too extravagant a degree of respect. He is the son of the famous Moknee, who was Governor of the province of Fezzan during the period of the Karamanly Bashaws. He has squandered his father's estate in intemperate drinking. Nevertheless I have been recommended to take him as a dragoman, and give him a fair trial, as his only vice really seems to be attachment to the bottle. I suspect he will not find many opportunities of indulging his propensity in the Sahara; so that, as long as he is _en route_, he may prove to be that phenomenon, a man without a fault! At any rate I must be content with him, especially as he is willing to sign a contract promising to be a pattern of sobriety! There is no one else in Tripoli so suitable for my purpose. He is a handsome, dark-featured fellow, and when in his bright-blue gown, white burnoose, and elegant fez, makes a really respectable figure. I must dress him up well for state occasions. Even in the desert one is often judged by the livery of one's servants. The individuals next in importance to Moknee are, perhaps, the Chaouches, as they are called here--Arab cavaliers, who are to act as janissaries. There is one big fellow for me, and one little fellow for the Germans. How they will behave remains to be seen; but I suspect they will give us some trouble. Then there are a number of free blacks from Tunis, some married, others not, who are to return to their homes in Soudan, Bornou, and Mandara, under our protection. Some of these have agreed to travel partly on their own account, or nearly so, whilst others will be paid and act as servants. One of them, named Ali, is a fine, dashing young fellow. They are very unimportant people here, but as we advance on our route will no doubt prove of some service, especially when we fairly enter upon the Black Countries. A marabout of Fezzan also accompanies us, and our camel-drivers are from the same country. They arrived with a caravan from Mourzuk, and we were some time detained by the necessity of allowing them and their beasts to rest before recommencing their march over the very arduous country that lies between this and the confines of Fezzan. Our progress will necessarily be slow, as all travelling is in the desert. Camels can rarely exceed three miles an hour, and often make but two. We may calculate their average progress at two miles and a half, so that the reader will be pleased to bear in mind, that when I speak of a laborious day of twelve hours, he must not imagine us to have advanced more than thirty miles. Before commencing the narrative of my journey, it may be as well to introduce a few observations on the commerce at present carried on with the interior by way of Tripoli. In addition to the mere acquisition of geographical, statistical, and other information, I look upon the great object of our mission to be the promotion, by all prudent means, of legitimate trade. This will be the most effectual way of putting a stop to that frightful system by which all the Central Provinces of Africa are depopulated, and all the littoral regions demoralized. When the negro races begin to make great profits by exporting the natural products of their country, they will then, and perhaps then only, cease to export their brethren as slaves. On this account, therefore, I take great interest in whatever has reference to caravan trade. There are now four general routes followed by the trading caravans from the Barbary coast, leading to four different points of that great belt of populous country that stretches across Central Africa,--viz. to WadaÃ¯, Bornou, Soudan, and Timbuctoo. WadaÃ¯ sends to the coast at Bengazi a biennial caravan, accompanied by a large number of slaves. The chief articles of legitimate traffic are elephants' teeth and ostrich feathers. This route is a modern ramification of interior trade, and was opened only during the last century. It is calculated that the exports of Bengazi form one-third of the whole of those of Tripoli. Bornou sends to the coast by way of Fezzan, I am sorry to say, chiefly slaves; but a quantity of ivory is now likewise forwarded by this route. Soudan exports slaves, senna, ivory, wax, indigo, skins, &c. &c. Nearly half of the commerce with this important country consists of legitimate articles of trade and barter. This is very encouraging, and the brief history of some of these objects of legal commerce is exceedingly interesting. Wax, for example, began to be sent seventeen years ago; elephants' teeth, fifteen; and indigo, only four years ago. Timbuctoo now scarcely forwards anything but gold to the coast of Tripoli, together with wax and ivory, but no slaves. The gold is brought by the merchants in diminutive roughly-made rings, which they often carry in dirty little bags, concealed in the breasts of their gowns. I am exceedingly glad to learn that the Ghadamsee merchants, who formerly embarked two-thirds of their capital in the slave-trade, have now only one-fourth engaged in that manner. This is progress. It has been partly brought about by the closing of the Tunisian slave-mart, partly by the increase of objects of legitimate commerce in the markets of Soudan. The merchants of Fezzan have still to learn that money may be invested to more advantage in things than in persons; but their education has been undertaken, and however slow the light may be in forcing its way to their eyes, it will reach them at last, there can be no doubt. The trade in senna is always considerable. Last year a thousand cantars were brought, from the country of the Tibboos and from Aheer. The latter place supplies the best. New objects of exportation may no doubt be discovered. Already gum-dragon and cassia have been added to the list of articles brought from Soudan; and when once treaties of commerce have been entered into, and merchants begin to find security in the desert and protection from the native princes, there is no doubt that a very large intercourse may be established with the interior countries of Africa--an intercourse that will at once prove of immense benefit to us as a manufacturing nation, and advance materially that great object of all honest men, the abolition of the accursed traffic in human beings. It is the latter object that chiefly occupies my mind, but I shall not attempt to bring it before the native princes in too abrupt a manner. In some cases, indeed, to allude to it at all would be disastrous. The promotion of legitimate traffic must, after all, be our great lever. I do not profess in this place to do more than give a few hints on the present state of trade in Tripoli, and the vast tract of half-desert country on which it leans. What I have said is perhaps sufficient to impart some idea of the nature of the relations between the Barbary coast and the interior, and to suggest the importance of the enterprise on which I am engaged. Briefly, the exportation of slaves to Tripoli and beyond, in spite of certain changes of route, is as rife as ever, and in this respect everything remains to be done. But, on the other hand, the trade which, I trust, is providentially intended to supersede this inhuman traffic, is on the increase, though slightly. If we can pave the way for the civilising steps of European commerce, either by treaties or by personal influence, we shall have accomplished a great work. Let us hope and pray that the necessary health, strength, and power of persuasion be granted to us! CHAPTER II. Start from the Masheeah--Painful Parting--Chaouch's Tent--A Family Quarrel--Wady Majeeneen--A Rainy Day--Moknee's Wives--Two mad Fellows--Great Ascent of Gharian--Tedious Day's Work--The Castle--View over the Country--Garrison--Troglodytes--Turkish Tax-gathering--Quarrelsome Servants--Proceed over the lofty Plain--Underground Villages--Kaleebah--The Batoum--Geology--A Slave Caravan--Cheerful Blacks--Rows--Oasis of Mizdah--Double Village--Intestine Discords--Interview with the Sheikh Omer--A Pocket Province--A Dream of Good Omen--Quarrels on Quarrels--Character of Fezzanees--A Leopard abroad. The preliminary miseries of a great journey being at length over, I rose early on the morning of the 30th of March and started from the Masheeah, a kind of suburb of Tripoli, distant in the country, at six. Hope and the spirit of adventure sustained my courage; but it is always sad to part with those we love, even at the call of duty. However, I at length mustered strength to bid adieu to my wife--the almost silent adieu of affection. How many things that were thought were left unsaid on either side! It will be pleasant to fill up all blanks when we talk of these days after a safe return from this arduous undertaking. It was a fresh, cheerful morning, succeeding several days of sultry weather--an auspicious commencement of the journey. My chaouch, Mohammed Souweea, preceded me on his great horse, murmuring some Arab ditty, and I followed hard on my little donkey. The desert assails the walls of Tripoli, and in half an hour we were in the Sahara sands, which here and there rise in great mounds. I should have liked to have pushed on to some considerable distance at once; but the habits of the country are dilatory, and one must conform to them. In a couple of hours we came to the chaouch's tent, where he had a wife, five children, and seven brothers, one of whom was blind. He, too, was to go through the sad ceremony of parting with his family; and he burst into tears when they surrounded and embraced him. I am sorry to say, however, that before this affecting scene was concluded, a quarrel had began between the blind man and the chaouch's wife, about two Tunisian piastres which were missing, she accusing him of theft and he indignantly repelling the charge. These Easterns seem to have minds constructed on different patterns from ours, and are apt to introduce such petty discussions at the most solemn moments; but we must not, therefore, be hasty in concluding that there is any sham in their sorrow, or affectation in their pathetic bewailings. They brought in a bowl of milk, and as the chaouch still continued to caress his children, I left him to pass the night in his tent, and pushed on to Wady Majeeneen, where my portion of the caravan had already encamped. Mr. F. Warrington, with my German colleagues, were a little in advance. The horses of the Pasha's cavalry were feeding around; for when the first belt of sand is past, the country becomes an undulating plain--a prairie, as they would call it in America--covered with patches of corn herbage. Here and there are fields of barley; and a few Arab tents, with flocks and herds near at hand, give a kind of animation to the scene. Next day (21st) it rained hard; but we went on a little to overtake Drs. Barth and Overweg, whom we found in company with Mr. F. Warrington, Mr. Vice-consul Reade, and Mr. Gaines the American consul. One of Mr. Interpreter Moknee's wives had also come out here, to have some settlement with her husband about support before she let him go. The gentleman has two wives, both negresses; and had already made an arrangement for the other, who has several children, of six mahboubs per month. First come, first served. The second wife, who has two children, only got three mahboubs a month. However, when matters were arranged, the pair became rather more loving. These settlements are always hard matters to manage, all the world over, and it is pleasant to get rid of them. By the way, a son of the worthy Moknee, by a white woman now dead--a lad of about twelve years of age--accompanies us, at least as far as Mourzuk. The most remarkable persons, however, whom I found at the encampment were a couple of insane fellows, determined to follow us--perhaps to show "by one satiric touch" what kind of madcap enterprise was ours. The first was a Neapolitan, who had dogged me all the while I was at Tripoli, pestering me to make a contract with him as servant. To humour his madness, I never said I would not; and the poor fellow, taking my silence for consent, had come out asking for his master. They tried to send him away, but he would take orders from none but me. I
{'title': 'Narrative of a Mission to Central Africa Performed in the Years 1850-51, Volume', 'source': 'Project Gutenberg', 'lang': 'en'}