@lemming42 (Don Eubanks) posted a new topic, subject "Band Saw Blade Sizes?". It read:

   Does anyone know what band saw blade sizes (blade width, not kerf size) that are installed in each machine currently?
    
    Are there also other additional widths hung up on the wall with the blades?
    
    I'm looking to use a 1/8" width blade to do some reasonably intricate cuts (very tight corners) on thick stock. If one of our machines does not have a 1/8" blade installed (or it's dull/cuts poorly) I will purchase one myself.
    
    Is there a process for one or more of us to get ‘certified' in swapping the blades in/out?

@MathewBusby (Mat) replied

    Even with an 1/8" blade you probably won't get much better than a 3/16" radius.
    
    Can't help you with the other questions though. Changing the blade isn't really specifically taught in a class (yet).

@mkart (Matt Keim) replied

    It looked like the delta had a 1/2" 4tpi and the jet had a 3/8" 6-7 tpi when I paid attention Friday, guessing though. We usually have a 3/16" blade for the Jet to do more intricate work but I have never seen 1/8" at the space. If the 3/16" will work it could be installed if we have one in stock. If you buy one and need assistance swapping out there are several of us who can help. If you know how to I don't think we require certification but you should be well versed on the process if you are going to try.
    
    Another thread is discussing bandsaw boxes which will probably have similar needs to yours. Usually 3" thick stock with the need for curves and vertically straight cuts.

@Tapper (Brian Davis) replied

    We don't have any rules that address this, however, if you change blades, you need to reinstall the stock blade and correctly adjust the guides when you are done. There are videos on Youtube that address how to adjust the guides, here's an example:
    
    Changing the blades is a hassle, and as Matt said, the difference between the 3/16 blade on the blue saw and a 1/8 blade isn't much, but if you want to do it, and are willing to reset the guides correctly when you are done, then the blue (3/16) and White (3/8) saw are both 14 inch saws with 105 inch blades. The large saw is a 20" with 142 (I think) blade.
    
    The biggest problem we have with the Bandsaws, is people forcing their stock into the blade. This dulls blades fast, breaks blades, or kinks them, and 95% of the blades we replace were ruined from this.
    
    If you are feeding stock at the correct speed, you will never ever feel the blade (because its cutting away the wood as you feed it). If you start to feel the blade push back, and have the sensation pushing harder will speed it up - you're in the process of destroying the blade. **Slow down**.

So @lemming42 (Don Eubanks) replied

    Awesome, that was a very informative video.
    
    To be clear, I'm still under the impression that I am not free to replace a blade without Someone Experienced having shown me the process in-person. If that's not the case I will attempt to do it myself (use my own blade, put original back) after watching all the Youtube videos I can find on the topic.

Then @lemming42 (Don Eubanks) said

    Spent some time with the band saws last night, did my best to set them all up. I adjusted the upper and lower blade guides using the techniques in Tapper's video (and others).
    
    Each of them was a bit off, with the large Delta-Rockwell one having the most issues when I found it, including:
    
      * back of the blade was literally riding the channel/groove in the rear of the blade guide assembly. (Dear “Person Who Used It Before Me”: If the blade is making sparks you probably shouldn't be using the machine…) This is because the blade was riding the back of the tires (with a small portion hanging off the back of the tires altogether)
      * both upper and lower guide bearings were in full contact with the blade at all times, since the blade was riding so far back they couldn't be adjusted further,
      * the blade was also coming into contact (riding) the bottom lip of the metal dust collector nozzle on the bottom. This is because there is just a single bolt responsible for the nozzle's position and orientation. I gave it lots of clearance and re-tightened it. The saw is quieter now!
      * I adjusted the blade so that it rode in the middle of the tire on the upper and lower tracks, but it still seems to want to drift backwards even when not cutting. Not sure how to investigate or diagnose this.
      * the paper inside the upper cover indicates there are instructions for adjusting the guides, but I searched the double-door plastic standing cabinet for a bit and didn't see any
    
    
    
    All three seemed to be set to way more tension than necessary (again, according to the videos I watched) but I did my best to re-tension them back to the way they were when I found them.
    
    I did not change the blades (based on my previous comment) but I think it will be necessary to do the work I need to do. as all three, even after adjustment, we're not able to properly cut the 6" hard maple blank I was working with. This was a bit baffling to me, but I'm also new to bandsaws, woodworking, and hard maple in general. Even on the large saw with the low TPI blade I would consistently hit points where the stock would literally not be cut. Pushing the stock only moved the blade backwards. What's going on in that circumstance? Are our blades just trashed? Am I crazy for thinking I can do this without getting some sort of special blade or something?
    
    I'm making a jewelry box (and on a bit of a schedule), should I just go buy a softer hardwood? The plan recommended Tiger Maple but this is the only maple I could find in 12/4 (need full 2" thickness).

Then @lemming42 (Don Eubanks) said

    After tracking down the instruction manual for a mostly-similar bandsaw, it appears I could have solved the blade-drifting-to-back-of-tire problem by adjusting a knob I didn't know about (nor did I hear about in any of the videos I watched)
    
    For reference, here's the manual I found.  
    http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/698/553.pdf

@jast (Andrew) replied

    Uploaded to wiki.  
    https://dallasmakerspace.org/wiki/Rockwell_Bandsaw

So @lemming42 (Don Eubanks) replied

    Going back for attempt #2 tonight, purchased a new 142" 3/4" 3 TPI blade. All the sources I checked indicate the blade being dull is the primary culprit.

To which @lemming42 (Don Eubanks) replied

    Replaced blade on large bandsaw and smaller delta saw. Mixed results.
    
    Two major problems with the blade guides on the large bandsaw though. On the upper one the set screw for the right guide bearing is completely frozen. Without being able to adjust that guide bearing the entire upper guide is a bit wonky and the blade has a good amount of footprint when cutting.
    
    On the lower blade guide the thrust bearing appears (to me) to be completely frozen. I don't know if it got burned or seized due to lots of heat and pressure from the blade riding backwards and people shoving stock through, or if it just needs to be adjusted somehow.
    
    I left the new blades on, I didn't have the time or energy to put the old ones back on and plan on working tomorrow as well.

So @jlcourtman (Jeff Courtman) replied

    Lemming - I know about the frozen screw on the guide - tried to get it out last week but was afraid of breaking it; I'll try again this Sunday - if anyone thinks about it, squirt a little WD-40 on it (again. and put a rag underneath)…there's really nothing special about tune up - I'm glad you dove in. BTW - if you are using a non-low tension blade on the smaller table saws, you cannot ever put too much tension on them; the springs just aren't heavy enough.
    
    Here's the order I do things:
    
      1. Back off all bearings, e.g. sides and back of blade, top and bottom
      2. Check blade tracking on wheels, top and bottom  
    2a.Set tension and recheck tracking
      3. Adjust thrust bearings, top and bottom
      4. Adjust side bearings, top and bottom
      5. Run for a minute and recheck for any final tweaks that need to be made.
      6. Especially on the big saw - if you change the height of the top blade guide, recheck 3 and 4 - the rod the assembly travels on has enough movement when you adjust it that can throw the settings off.

So @Photomancer (David Kessinger) replied

    Band saw blades sizes are machines is an oft asked question. Suggestion: use labler to list on cover. Maybe even suggest tpi for vatious materials/wood.

@lemming42 (Don Eubanks) replied

    Pretty sure the bottom thrust bearing on the smaller Delta is shot also. When those bearings don't turn well the blade rubs them and just heats up. Hot blades mean burning and rapid dulling of the blade (think minutes). The one I changed out two days ago already had the teeth literally stripped away in a few spots. Would not recommend using either machine until the bearing is replaced, they'll just eat blades (especially thin ones)

After which, @lemming42 (Don Eubanks) added

    What is the status (or process?) on replacing the frozen thrust bearings / unfreezing the guide bearing set screws? I'm still pretty new and this discussion space feels pretty “official”, but I could also see how I might just be yelling at clouds and nothing happens without tickets.

So @mkart (Matt Keim) replied

    You should enter a ticket, this is the unofficial site even though it often gets the job done. To speed things up you could also do all the legwork to get part numbers and pricing from the mfr.


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