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[Report Click to Expand] 2014-06-14 [Posted By] pbakwin [Posted On] 2014-06-14 [4] 2 [5] 2 [Conditions Information] 
Route: North Face & Keyhole Info: For some reason I went up the North Face (Cables) and down the Keyhole both yesterday and today. Conditions are changing rapidly. The North Face was probably an ideal snow climb 5 days ago. Yesterday it was pretty good with a couple of careful steps on the cables section, and otherwise good snow right to the summit. Today the crux moves at the top of the cables section were quite icy & we had to hack some steps to be secure with running shoes and light crampons. It will probably get harder with time (mix of wet rock & ice) until it finally dries out later in the summer. But anyway the top bolt is easily visible so its a fine rap route as is. The Keyhole Route is in great shape for crampons/ax. The first 200 yards from the Keyhole are rock, then its almost completely good, cramponable snow to the top of the Trough, then some rocky and some snowy sections through and past the Narrows, then the Homestretch is all good firm snow. Its a great route in these conditions, if you bring the right tools. All this is of course changing very fast.
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Conditions Information