normal childhood, right?
needless to say, i was always trying to seek attention; i wanted to be wanted! i was one of those kids who was good at sports and played them all, year round. when i discovered surfing, i put my all into it and wanted a professional career out of it. as i got older, i kept odd end jobs like waiting tables and construction so i could make ends meet while putting all my energy into surfing. through this period in my life, my family kept telling me, “cut your hair and get a real job because you have so much potential.” i ‘knew everything’ and as it 