more in those areas if you are on the right wave, a wave going in full swing toward the coast.
and then, just before this wave breaks, look around and try to find the next one that will bring you new joy and new opportunities for an amazing surf.
just to make it clear – i’m not saying that you should run away from challenging situations and problems. especially during younger years, while you are still learning how to surf it’s very beneficial that you hit the cold water a couple of times or even break your surfboard. that will make you stronger as a person and a professional. i’m also not 