'Absolutely no peas ! ' booms Luis as he dispatches me to the market . I 'm in Valencia , Spain 's third largest city . Not for the Las Fallas festival ( a huge affair every March when giant papier-mache figures of politicians are burned amid lively street celebrations ) , but for its other claim to fame - it is the home of paella . Luis is a top chef who leads paella-making classes . But first I have to get the ingredients . Dinner is served : Paella originated in Valencia , using ingredients which could be sourced cheaply and locally . The central market is in a glorious art nouveau building in the old quarter , with more than 500 stalls selling every Spanish food imaginable . I buy an 'arrangement ' of rabbit and chicken portions from a butcher . Then I choose three different types of beans . Paella Valenciana was created from what was easily available to local farmers . This meant rice from the local paddy fields , and beans , rabbit and chicken from their land . It 's wrong to add peas , as we Brits do , apparently . Under Luis 's watchful eye , I learn how to chop the meat and cook it and the beans in different parts of the pan . I sieve fresh tomato and dabble in smoked pimento for flavour . The secret is about how to put the rice into the water . Luis tells me to add it in two straight lines in the form of a cross ( seemingly , for perfect absorption ) . I add fresh rosemary , remembering to remove it after ten minutes . It seems to work and in around 20 minutes my glossy , golden rice dish is complete . Delicious , though I say so myself . Luis awards me my diploma : I am now a 'paella ambassador ' . If you want to know more about this famous dish and its variations , contact Patrick Waller . Originally from Bromley , he moved to Valencia 23 years ago when he fell in love with a local , Julia Espin . A real mixed bag : True paella can contain seafood and rabbit - but should never feature peas . They run the Paella Project , taking in all aspects of buying fresh produce at the market , cooking classes , wine tastings and a visit to Xativa in the hills with lessons and meal preparation outdoors . You can also explore the famous rice fields of the Albufera National Park , just 15 minutes outside Valencia . They blew me away . You can take a boat trip on the vast lagoon or enjoy the pine-fringed , wild beaches and restaurants of nearby El Saler village . Valencia has fantastic white beaches , too , just five minutes from the city centre . There are endless orange tree patios ( proper orange juice everywhere ) ; walks along the former Turia riverbed ; the Unesco listed Lonja ( silk hall ) , which dates to1548 ; and superb shopping , including five El Corte Ingles department stores . Balconies of intricate metal designs and specialist cafes called horchaterias , with marble-topped tables serving a traditional Valencian drink made from tiger nuts and sugar , remind me this is the real Spain . Kirker Holidays ( 020 7593 1899 , www.kirkerholidays.com ) has three nights at Melia Plaza Hotel from £559 per person , based on two sharing , including flights from Gatwick , private transfers and B & B . Paella classes cost from £50 ( www.escueladearrocesypaellas.com ) ; four-day Paella Project from £475 , including accommodation ( www.thespanishthymetraveller.com ) .
beach , in the south - west of Spain , is the traditional home of surfing . Paella beach was created from what was easily available to tourists . it has fantastic beaches an easy hop from from the city centre .