( Tribune Media Services ) -- A century and a half ago , Athens was a humble , forgotten city of about 8,000 people . Today , one out of every three Greeks packs into this city of about 4 million . To avoid the Parthenon crowds , go in the early evening when the marble turns golden as the sun sets . Athens has been famous for its sprawl , noise and pollution . My advice has long been to see the big sights , then get out . But visiting it recently to research a new guidebook , I 've seen a dramatic change . The city has made a concerted effort to curb pollution , clean up and pedestrianize the streets , spiff up the museums , build a new airport and invest in one of Europe 's better public-transit systems . Even with its new look , the Greek capital still has its `` big three '' sights : the stunning Acropolis , the Ancient Agora just below and the remarkable National Archaeological Museum . But coming in June is the opening of a fourth big sight -- one that will stoke a battle over Greece losing her marbles more than 200 years ago ( more on that later ) . To many , the most important ancient site in the Western world is the Acropolis , rising gleaming like a beacon above the gray concrete drudgery of modern Athens . This is where the Greeks built the mighty Parthenon -- the most famous temple on the planet , and an enduring symbol of ancient Athens ' glorious Golden Age from nearly 2,500 years ago . The major monuments of the Acropolis survive in remarkably good condition . While the Persians , Ottomans , and British were cruel to the site in the past , the greatest dangers it faces now are acid rain and pollution . Ongoing restoration means that you might see some scaffolding -- but even that ca n't take away from its greatness . I like to come late in the day , as the sun goes down , when the white Parthenon stone gleams a creamy golden brown . While the Acropolis was the city 's ceremonial showpiece , it was the Ancient Agora that was the real heart of classical Athens . For some 800 years , it was the hub of all commercial , political , and social life and home to many of the city 's religious rites . Little survives in the Agora from the classical period . Other than one very well-preserved temple and a rebuilt portico , it 's a field of humble ruins nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis . But that makes it a quiet , uncrowded spot to wander and get a feel for the ancients . Romantics ca n't help but get goose bumps as they kick around the same pebbles that once stuck in Socrates ' sandals , with the floodlit Parthenon forever floating ethereally overhead . North of the city center is the world 's best collection of ancient Greek art , the National Archaeological Museum . It takes you from 7000 B.C . to A.D. 500 on a beautifully displayed and well-described sweep through Greek history , from prehistoric and Mycenaean artifacts through the evolution of classical Greek statuary . This museum now has a worthy competitor -- the New Acropolis Museum , slated to open in June . It 's a world-class space , custom-built to showcase the Parthenon sculptures , along with truckloads of other artifacts , all complemented by modern exhibits . And the state-of-the-art building itself is worth a look , as the boldest symbol yet of the post-Olympics vision for Athens . The new museum also serves as a sort of 21st-century Trojan horse , intended to lure the famous Elgin Marbles ( the Parthenon sculptures ) away from London 's British Museum . In the early 19th century , the British ambassador to the Ottomans , Lord Elgin , got permission to strip marble panels from the Parthenon and take them to England . For years , the Greeks have asked for the marbles back , and for years , the Brits have responded with claims that Greece ca n't give them a suitable home . And yet , now that this state-of-the-art facility is ready and waiting , it still seems unlikely that the marbles will be returned anytime soon . Britain is reluctant to give in , for fear of setting a precedent ... and getting `` me , too '' notices from Italy , Egypt , Iran , Iraq and all the other nations who 'd like the missing pieces of their cultural heritage back . But even without the Elgin Marbles , this new museum will be worth the wait , capturing the timeless splendor of ancient Athens in an ultra-modern building . Athens is more than a showcase for its past . Take some time to smell the souvlaki , whether by wandering through the touristy Plaka district , browsing through the Monastiraki flea market , or exploring the Psyrri neighborhood , the cutting-edge place to go for nightlife and dining . The narrow winding streets can be confusing , but you ca n't get too lost with a monument the size of the Acropolis looming overhead to keep you oriented . And after you visit Athens , get out -- to the wild , mountainous landscape of Greece 's Peloponnese , covered in my next column . Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio . E-mail him at rick @ ricksteves.com , or write to him c/o P.O . Box 2009 , Edmonds , Wash. 98020 . Copyright 2009 RICK STEVES , DISTRIBUTED BY TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES , INC .
Rick Steves writes European tour guidebooks and produces television shows . His TV series , ` ` Rick Steves ' Europe , '' airs on PBS stations . Steves ' company , Europe Through the Open Door , conducts European tours .