( CNN ) Let `` Bohemian Rhapsody '' play on : Nostalgia for the 1970s heavily influenced spring 's most coveted fashion trends , and industry insiders expect to see the era linger in this year 's fall-winter collections at New York Fashion Week , which started Thursday . Waists are high and layers are long , with extended tunics paired over slim dress shapes like fluid pants ( often with a slight flare ) and long skirts . `` It 's a slimmer silhouette -- much more concise and much more grown-up , '' said Lizzy Bowring , who identifies the key trends to emerge from the global runways for fashion forecaster WGSN . `` It is n't a granola look , as one might say . '' Bowring foresees the baby doll dress to become a key item but anticipates the overriding trend to be masculinity with strong elements of bespoke tailoring in a sleeker , slimmer silhouette . In line with this tailored look , expect emphasis on the waist with a made-to-measure jacket and relaxed pant combo , flaps on lower pockets or patent belts that nip in the waist . The belted waist lends itself well into a slight military aesthetic , with a focus on uniformity and utility . Because of this , the color palette skews toward olive , forest greens and navy . But that 's not the only color story this year : There 's soft , pure neutrals and cosmetic tones like camel and chalky whites that are juxtaposed with warm , rich tones like cognac , saffron and blood orange . The Pantone Color Institute 's top 10 colors for fall 2015 paint a similar picture , with offerings like cadmium orange , dried herb , stormy weather and marsala , which was recently named color of the year . `` The fall 2015 palette is rooted in multifaceted , androgynous colors that can be worn to portray effortless sophistication across men 's and women 's fashion ; it is the first time we are seeing a truly unisex color palette , '' said Leatrice Eiseman , the executive director of the institute . And while the 1970s reign supreme , Bowring wonders whether things wo n't hark back even further to a time of `` historical romanticism , '' as she calls it , with high , intricately laced necklines , empire-waisted gowns and tapestry prints .
New York Fashion Week runs from Thursday through February 19 . Expect bespoke tailoring , cinched waists and 1970s vibes .