Not every Greek island lets you rent a boat and potter about at will , but Skopelos does . It 's the difference between a good holiday and an adventurously good holiday - with some embarrassment thrown in . On day one , after manoeuvring our rented boat into sheltered waters off Kastani beach , I cut the throttle and my girlfriend threw out the anchor . Splash ! Splendidly small : Skopelos has a relaxed , offbeat vibe that plays out in the pretty port of Chora . As the breeze pushed us back , the short anchor line quickly ran out until the end - then we heard a softer , more ominous splash . We had n't noticed that the end was n't secured . The rope sank fast . Oh dear . But our shame was admirably handled by the boat owners , who promptly gave us a second anchor , and assured us they would retrieve the original . This generosity of spirit set the tone for our week on this hilly , pine-forested island . Skopelos is known as the film location for Mamma Mia ! and I had feared there might be endless reminders of the day when Meryl Streep 's Donna found love . I need not have worried . The island lies in the Sporades , east of the mainland . With no airport , most people fly to Skiathos , followed by an hour 's ferry ride . Arriving in Skopelos is special . Seal of approval : Kyle encountered two locals of the bewhiskered variety while sailing around Slopelos . It has one of the most scenic ports in Greece . Wooded hillsides are punctuated with white walls topped by terracotta-tiled roofs . A ruined Venetian fortress and dozens of chapels make you feel that this is a spiritual retreat . Many of the chapels were built by families as status symbols and are owned and maintained by their descendants , rather than by the Greek Orthodox Church . We opted for a villa . Up a steep hill from Skopelos town , and along a dirt track ( vehicle needed ) lies Villa Thea , with its cool stone floors , pool and large terrace . In the evenings , the lights from town twinkle and moonlight shimmers on the water . Thalpos Holidays Boat Hire operates out of sheltered Panormos beach on the west coast , a 20-minute drive from Skopelos town . With guidance from Mr Thalpos himself , the coastline was ours to explore in a 30hp motorboat . One day , we headed north , anchoring at the pine-fringed Neraki beach , which we had to ourselves , as it is only accessible by boat . Picnic perfection . The adjacent islet of Dasia comprises little more than rocks jutting out of the blue sea , but our appetite for maritime adventures was well rewarded here . Watching the whiskered faces of two monk seals rolling lazily in the sea was unforgettable . These shy , endangered marine mammals - once widespread around the Mediterranean and beyond - are now limited to small ranges , one of which is close to Skopelos . Glossa is a smaller town in the north , and its white-washed houses are as authentic as you might wish , with few compromises to mass tourism . We spent an enjoyable evening here before reaching one of the stars of the island , Agnanti , a restaurant perched high on a hilltop . Owner Nikos offers visitors fine traditional seafood as well as slow-cooked pork , and the terrace has some of the most spectacular views on the island . We were tempted to exclaim : 'Mamma mia ! ' Instead , we wondered how quickly we could return to this gorgeous island . It wo n't be soon enough . Seven nights ' self-catering at Villa Thea ( 020 8459 0777 , www.ionianislandholidays.com ) costs from £496 per person based on six sharing and flights from Gatwick or Manchester , transfers , car hire and welcome pack . More information on Greece at www.visitgreece.gr .
The little Greek island of Thalpos is known as the setting for Mamma Mia . With no airport on the island , most visitors arrive by ferry from Skiathos . With small coves galore , Thalpos is an ideal location for a week 's sailing .