Dawn was breaking as we pulled out of Calvi station , and the town 's medieval citadel , perched on a headland , was bathed in the rosy glow of the first rays of sunlight . Trundling along the coast on the narrow-gauge railway , I was heading deep into the mountains of central Corsica for a self-guided walking trip . 'Are you doing the GR20 ? ' was the question on everyone 's lips as soon as they spotted my hiking boots . I responded with an emphatic 'non ' . The trail , which runs down the mountainous spine of the island , happens to be the toughest trek in Europe . The Corsican Mouflon , or mountain sheep , make easy work of the tough GR20 hiking trail . The GR20 trail runs down the mountainous spine of Corsica and happens to be the toughest trek in Europe . I had chosen a much gentler route , or so I thought . I was following the ancient Sentiers de Transhumance , footpaths used for more than 1,000 years by shepherds leading their animals to summer pastures . It started in the remote Golo Valley , a wild and desolate canyon flanked by barren cliffs . After trudging up a stony ledge high above the valley floor the first morning , I began to wonder what I had taken on . Over the following days I found myself scrambling over dry river beds , scaling rock-strewn gullies and clinging to cable handrails as I inched across wobbly suspension bridges . Everywhere I looked the views were jaw-dropping . Fortunately , I was travelling in comfort with my luggage transported from one hotel to the next , so all I needed was a daypack and water bottles filled to the brim . The Golo Valley , where the ancient Sentiers de Transhumance used for more than 1,000 years begins . Most of the trails were clearly marked with orange daubs of paint and I was equipped with maps and detailed instructions . Even so , there were times when I got hopelessly lost . Accommodation ranged from small auberges to family-run hotels . The first night I stopped at the Casa Balduina , a simple B & B in Calacuccia , where I was welcomed by owner Jeanne with Earl Grey tea and home-made fruitcake in her shady garden . Each morning I would set off early to avoid the blistering midday sun . The average hike was five to seven hours and at times I walked for ages without meeting another soul . The water below one of the hiking track 's footbridges proves too enticing to not jump in for a swim . Sometimes I 'd pause beside little packhorse bridges to dangle my feet in water that was as clear as gin . At the Piscine Naturelle , an emerald rock pool in the midst of the pine trees , I took a deep breath and plunged in up to my neck for a refreshing dip . It was cold as ice . I stayed at the Hotel Aitone further up the hillside which served hearty Corsican fare in its panoramic restaurant . Tucking into Civet de Sanglier , a wild boar casserole , I watched a crimson sun slip below the sea . Next day I decided to cheat and cut short the itinerary . After trekking through the beautiful Spelunca Gorge , I caught a cab to the seaside resort of Porto where a 16th Century Genoese tower stands guard over the harbour . After trekking through the beautiful Spelunca Gorge ( pictured ) , Wendy took a cab to Porto ( below ) A 16th Century Genoese tower stands guard over the harbour in the seaside resort of Porto . A packhorse bridge on Wendy ’ s route , which can be walked for ages without seeing another person . Corsican Places ( 0845 330 2113 ) offers a seven-night Corsican Island Mystery selfguided walking tour from £1,049pp including return flights from Stansted or Manchester , five nights ' half-board and two nights ' B & B , transfers and luggage transfers , maps and guide notes . Holiday Extras ( 0800 1313 777 ) offers a choice of UK airport hotels . Joining the Mare Norstrum II for a boat trip , I looked up at the remains of fortifications built on impossibly steep precipices . We sailed along the Calanques , a series of rocky inlets , caves and sea cliffs which have been sculpted into exotic shapes by constant erosion . It was as if Gaudi had fashioned battlements , spires and organ pipes . I was to see them close-up on my final hike along the cliffs to Les Roches Rouges Hotel in the village of Piana . Flinging open the shutters the last morning , I was greeted by an unforgettable sight . The entire Gulf of Porto lay below me . I promised myself I 'd be back to do a coastal walk or - who knows - maybe I will attempt the GR20 . The stunning coastline of Corsica that has been sculpted by constant erosion . A final hike along the cliffs led Wendy to Les Roches Rouges Hotel in the village of Piana . The remarkable view of the Gulf of Porto that can be seen from the balcony of Les Roches Rouges .
Sentiers de Transhumance track 's been used by shepherd for centuries . Sign-posted route is an easier equivalent to the famed GR20 hiking trail . Accommodation ranged from small auberges to family-run hotels . In the seaside resort of Porto a 16th Century Genoese tower stands guard .