The cow silhouette atop my cocktail at LB Steak was the first hint that this steak house focuses on every detail, not just the meat.
Stenciled on the frothy branded bourbon ($11), the red Angostura bitters cow floated intact until I drained my glass - much the way attention to detail extended throughout our meal, from the smoked salt sprinkled on the softened sweet butter (to slather on freshly baked popovers) to the maitre d' storing our take-home boxes.
Owned by the proprietors of Left Bank restaurants and LB Steak in Santana Row, the Menlo Park restaurant opened last year in the former space of Marche. It's a classic steak house, serving premium beef with a choice of the usual sides, the iceberg wedge and whiskey.
Aside from the banks of windows, the corner restaurant has a new look. The bar now runs along the wall of the main dining area, and private dining rooms lie in the back. The decor is classic stained wood against off-white walls.
Service is supremely attentive. During three visits, servers appeared when we needed them without hovering, and they chatted only as long as necessary. A water glass was never empty for more than a second, no orders went astray and dishes appeared when we were ready for them.
Chef de cuisine Brendy Monsada's starters take advantage of seasonal produce with such specials as the watermelon gazpacho ($12.50), a pureed cold soup whose slightly sour edge is tempered by cubes of rich raw tuna and avocado.
As for salads, that iceberg wedge ($9.50) comes crisp and chilled, with a potent dice of bacon sprinkled over the blue cheese vinaigrette. The beet and frisee ($8.50) features cooked beets with just the right bite and loads of flavor, although the dressing was a bit too vinegary, even for pickled beets.
The least successful was a lobster Cobb ($19), where the seafood's flavor was lost among the bacon, poached egg, avocado and ranch dressing - not worth the high price.
The reason to go to a steak house is, of course, the steaks, and LB Steak met expectations, with prime-quality beef. Before you order, study the temperature guide at the bottom of the menu, as the restaurant's cooking terms skew toward the rare side.
Sides include garlicky al dente asparagus; airy, crisp potato and leek croquettes; and crisp onion rings.
Non-steak entrees excel as well, although it was surprising that the salmon ($24.40) was not wild, considering it's the season. Still, the fish came seared until crisp on the outside and just past raw on the inside, accompanied on my visit by broccoli rabe; currently, it's served with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes and pickled onions with the salmon.
The burger ($11.50), a half pound of grass-fed beef, is rich and meaty without being drippy; the accompanying fries thin and crisp.
The desserts (all $8) celebrate the season's fruit, and include strawberry shortcake with creme fraiche and olive oil sponge cake; and a very good rhubarb strawberry crumble, large enough for three or four diners.
The lemon tart, while pleasingly sweet-sour, had an undercooked crust that tasted almost raw.
A large wine list features reds and whites from around the world along with dessert wines, Cognac and whiskeys.
One night, unable to finish the 12-ounce New York, we asked to take the rest home; with our check we were presented with a cattle tag. It was our ticket to hand to the host to pick up our leftovers - another detail that helped create a very good dining experience.
Dinner 4-9 p.m. Sunday-Monday, until 10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Full bar. Reservations and credit cards accepted. Free parking lot.