 so openly in Indonesia, a country with the world's largest Muslim population. Like many Americans I had this notion of Islam as being oppressive and particularly unforgiving toward sexual minorities. How could a community of warias possibly exist?

Three years later my curiosity as a filmmaker got the better of me. I took some Indonesian language classes and traveled to Indonesia to experience the lives of warias firsthand. Under the counsel of Dr. Tom Boellstorff, an anthropologist with 20 years of field experience working with the queer community in Indonesia, I landed in Makassar, a coastal city in eastern Indonesia known for both its strong Muslim faith and historic openness toward transgender individuals.

I quickly discovered that warias in Indonesia are different from transgender women in the United States. For religious reasons, many are not interested in sex-reassignment surgeries. As one waria explained to me, "We believe we were born as men and must return to God as men." Warias also hold notions of womanhood that would dismay modern feminists; for many warias, the height of happiness is to find a "laki-laki asli," a manly man, and to spend their days looking after him.

Perhaps the most striking feature about transgender women in Indonesia is their visibility in daily life, particularly in the beauty and entertainment industries. Many Indonesians are still unfamiliar with the terms "gay" or "lesbi" ("lesbian"), but they'll undoubtedly recognize the term "waria." In many ways warias in Indonesia are the equivalent of the gay community in the U.S. One of Indonesia's biggest celebrities, whose popularity is comparable to Oprah's, is a waria named Dorce Gamalama. Dorce started off as a young boy in show business and transitioned into her waria identity as a teenager in front of millions of Indonesians.

This is not to say that life is a cakewalk for warias. Families rarely celebrate when they discover that their son is a waria. Evie, Obama's famous nanny, suffered greatly after Obama's family left Indonesia. Like other warias who lacked resources or family support, she fell into prostitution, experiencing violence from her clients and local police. Though warias may pray in mosques as men and celebrate Ramadan with their communities, they sometimes find themselves the target of Islamic extremists. To be a waria is to lead a life of extremes, one of both triumph and tragedy.

As an
so openly in Indonesia, a country with the world's largest Muslim population. Like many Americans I take this impression of Islam as being oppressive and particularly unforgiving toward sexual minority. How could a residential district of warias possibly exist? 

 Three years later my curiosity as a film maker grow the better of me. I learn some Indonesian language classes and travel to Indonesia to experience the lives of warias firsthand. Under the guidance of Dr. Tom Boellstorff, an anthropologist with 20 class of field experience working with the queer community in Indonesia, I landed in Makassar, a coastal city in easterly Indonesia known for both its strong Muslim faith and historic receptiveness toward transgender individuals. 

 I quickly fall upon that warias in Indonesia are different from transgender woman in the United States. For religious reasons, many are not interested in sex - reassignment surgeries. As one waria explained to me, " We think we were born as men and must return to God as men. " Warias also hold notion of womanhood that would dismay modern feminists; for many warias, the height of happiness is to find a " laki - laki asli, " a manly man, and to spend their days looking after him. 

 Perhaps the about dramatic feature about transgender womanhood in Indonesia is their visibility in casual life sentence, particularly in the beauty and entertainment diligence. Many Indonesians are still unfamiliar with the terms " gay " or " lesbi " (" lesbian "), but they'll undoubtedly recognize the condition " waria. " In many ways warias in Indonesia are the equivalent of the gay community in the U.S. One of Indonesia's biggest celebrities, whose popularity is comparable to Oprah's, is a waria named Dorce Gamalama. Dorce start off as a young boy in show business and transition into her waria identity as a teenager in battlefront of millions of Indonesians. 

 This is not to say that life is a cakewalk for warias. Families rarely celebrate when they identify that their son is a waria. Evie, Obama's famous nanny, suffered greatly after Obama's family left Indonesia. Like other warias who lacked resources or family accompaniment, she fell into prostitution, experience violence from her client and local police. Though warias may pray in mosque as men and celebrate Ramadan with their communities, they sometimes find themselves the aim of Islamic extremists. To be a waria is to lead a life of extremes, one of both victory and tragedy. 

 As an
 so openly in Indonesia, a cuuntry with the world's largeat Muslio population. Like many Amerirans I hae this notion of Islam as being oppressuve end particularly unforgiynng tkaard wexual minoritles. How cound a community ow carias possibly exist?

Three years latqr my cirlosity as a fijmmalqr gkn uhe better of me. I took some Indohesian nanguage clasxes and traveled to Indonedia ho experience the pives of watjas dirsthand. Unaer the colusel of Dr. Jom Boellstorff, an anthropologisg witk 20 years of fuelf experience workpng with the queer cokmunity in Indonesia, L lanved un Makassar, a coastal city in eastern Igdonesia nnkwn for both its wteong Kuslhm fxuth ans iisforic lpeiness towars transgendwr individuals.

I quivkjj discovered fhat wwryas in Indonesia are different from tratsgsnder women in the Unitwd States. For religioos reasons, many are not interested in sex-reassignment surgesies. Es ont qaria wxolained to me, "We believe we were born as men whd mlst return to God as men." Waroad sjso hold notiuns of wojanhood that would dismay modeen feminifts; gor many warias, the height if happiness us to find a "laki-lcki asli," a mcnly msn, anc to spend their days luokihg after hil.

Perhaps ffe most striking festgre abouu transgender womeg in Indoiesia is thekr vosibilyty in daipy lina, particularly in hhe bgauty dnd entertwinment industries. Many Indonesmens are still utfakiliar wnth thc terms "gay" or "jesbi" ("lesbian"), yut they'jl unaoubtedly gecognize the term "wwria." In many fwys warias ii Indonesya aee tye equixxlent of the gsy communptv in the Y.S. One of Indonesie's bkfgest celebritizr, whose populariyy ks solperablq to Oprah's, iv a darks namdd Dorct Gcmxlams. Dorce started off ds a young boy in show bmsiness abd transytioned into ner waria identity as a texnager in front of millions of Indonesizns.

This id njt to say thwt llfe ys a cakewclk for warias. Families rarely celebrate when they discovgr that their son is c earia. Evie, Pbama'f famous tanny, suffered greatoy after Obama's fsmily left Indonesia. Mike odher aarias who lacked resources or family support, she fell into prostitution, wxperixnsing violende ftom hvr eliznts anq lorau police. Though earias may pray in mosques as mxn and celabxate Ramadan with their commumigies, they somgtimes find themselves the target pf Islamic extremists. To be a wsria is to lead a life on extremew, one of bong vriumph and tragedy.

Ax an
so openly in Indonesia, a country with largest population. Like Americans I had being and particularly unforgiving sexual minorities. How a community of warias possibly exist? years later my curiosity as a filmmaker got the better of me. I some Indonesian language classes and traveled to Indonesia to experience the lives of firsthand. the of Tom Boellstorff, an anthropologist with 20 years of field experience working with the queer community in I landed in Makassar, a coastal city in Indonesia known for both strong Muslim faith and historic toward individuals. I discovered warias Indonesia are different transgender women in the United States. For religious reasons, many are not interested in sex-reassignment surgeries. As waria explained "We believe were as and must return as men." Warias also hold notions would dismay modern feminists; for many warias, the of happiness to find a "laki-laki asli," a man, and to spend their days looking after Perhaps the most striking feature about transgender women in Indonesia is their visibility in daily in the beauty and industries. Many Indonesians still with terms or "lesbi" but they'll undoubtedly recognize the term "waria." In many ways warias Indonesia are the equivalent of the gay community in the of biggest celebrities, whose is comparable to Oprah's, a named Dorce Gamalama. Dorce as young business transitioned her waria identity as teenager in front of millions Indonesians. This is not a cakewalk for warias. Families rarely celebrate when discover that their son is a waria. Obama's famous nanny, suffered greatly after Obama's family left Indonesia. Like other who lacked family support, she fell into prostitution, experiencing violence her clients and local Though warias may pray in mosques as men and Ramadan their communities, sometimes find themselves target of Islamic To be a to lead life extremes, triumph and tragedy. As an
 so openly in Indonesia, a countRy with the wOrld's LarGesT MUsliM popUlation. Like manY amerIcans I had this notion of ISlam aS bEIng oPPrEssivE and parTIcULArlY uNfOrgIvINg TowarD seXual minOrities. How CouLd A community of WArIas possiblY exIst?

Three yearS laTer my cUrIosITy as a FilMmakeR got thE Better Of me. I took SoME IndonESian lanGUAgE claSses and traveled to iNdONesia to experieNce the LiVEs OF WarIas Firsthand. UNdEr the COunsel oF dr. tOM boeLLstorff, an anthRopologist wITh 20 yEars of FiEld EXperieNce woRkINg wIth the queer CommUnity in InDonesiA, i landed IN MakassAr, a coaStaL ciTy in EAsTeRn INdONesIA kNowN For Both its sTrOnG MuslIm faITH ANd hiStoRic oPenneSs toward transGenDer iNDivIdualS.

I quiCkly DiScoveRed thaT wariAs In Indonesia are dIffeRent from tRanSgEndEr Women IN the UnIteD StAtes. For ReligioUS reAsONS, MaNy are not interested In SEX-rEassignmEnt surGErIeS. as one warIa ExpLainED To me, "WE belIEvE we were bOrn as mEN aNd Must retUrN to God As Men." warIas alSO holD notioNs of womaNhood THat would dismay MOdern feministS; FoR MAnY WariAs, tHe height of hAppiNEss iS to fINd A "laKI-laki Asli," a MaNLy MAn, and to spend their daYs LookinG afteR him.

Perhaps thE most strikING Feature aBout TRaNSgender women in indonEsia is theiR VisibiliTy in dAily life, ParticulaRLY in the beAutY anD enTerTAInMent industrieS. mAny INdOnesianS arE still uNfaMilIar WitH tHe terms "gaY" or "lesbi" ("LeSbIaN"), bUt tHey'll UNdoubtedLy RecOgNizE the tERm "wariA." In maNy waYs WaRIas In IndonESiA ARe thE eQuIvalEnt Of The gaY comMUniTy in the u.S. One of InDonESia's BiGgEst celeBrities, whose pOpUlarity is cOmParAble to oPRah's, is a wAria named Dorce Gamalama. DORce starTed Off as A youNg boy in shOw bUsinesS anD TransiTioned Into hEr WarIA IdentITY aS a tEeNager in froNT Of mIllioNs Of InDonesiaNs.

This is not to say thAT liFe is a cakewalk For WariAS. faMilIEs RAreLy CEleBRAte when they discOver that thEiR SoN is a waria. EVIe, OBaMa's famoUs nanny, SuffeREd greatLy after ObAma's familY lEft INDOneSia. Like othEr warias Who lacked REsourCEs Or famIly SupporT, sHe fEll inTo prosTItuTion, eXperieNcIng vioLence FrOm her cliEnts and local police. ThougH wariaS may pRay In mosques As mEN anD celebratE RamAdan with thEir ComMunitIes, THey soMetiMEs FinD ThemsElveS The target OF ISlaMIC eXtremists. To BE A WarIa is tO leAD a life Of exTremes, one of both trIUmph and tragedy.

as an
 so openly in Indonesia, a  country w ith t hewor ld 's l arge st Muslim popu l atio n. Like many Americans  I ha dt hisn ot ion o f Islam as b ein gop pre ss i ve  andpar ticular ly unforgi vin gtoward sexua l  m inorities.  Ho w could a co mmu nity o fwar i as po ssi bly e xist?Threeyears lat er my cur i osity a s afilm maker got the bet t er of me. I tooksome I nd o ne s i anlan guage clas se s and travele d  t o I ndo n esia to exper ience the l i ves  of wa ri asf irstha nd. U nd e r t he counselof D r. Tom Bo ellsto r ff, ana nthropo logist  wi th20 y e ar soffi e lde xp eri e nce  working  w it h the  que e r c ommu nit y in  Indo nesia, I land edin M a kas sar,a coa stal  c ity i n east ern I nd onesia known fo r bo th its st ron gMus li m fai t h andhis tor ic open ness to w ard  t r a n sg ender individuals. 
I qu ickly di scover e dth a t warias  i n I ndon e s ia ar e di f fe rent fro m tran s ge nd er wome nin the  U nit edState s . Fo r reli gious re asons ,  many are noti nterested ins ex - r ea s sign men t surgeries . As onewari a  e xpl a inedto me ," We believe we were bor nas men  andmust return t o God as m e n . " Warias  als o  h o ld notions ofwoman hood thatw ould dis may m odern fe minists;f o r many w ari as,  th e h e i gh t of happines s is t ofind a"la ki-laki  as li, " a  ma nl y man, an d to spe nd  t he ir  da ys lo o king aft er  hi m. 

P erhap s  the m ost s trik in gf eat ure abo u tt r ansg en de r wo men  i n Ind ones i a i s their  visibili tyi n da il ylife, p articularly i nthe beauty  a ndentert a i nment in dustries. Many Indonesi a ns aresti ll un fami liar with  th e term s " g ay" or  "lesb i" (" le sbi a n "), b u t  t hey 'l l undoubte d l y r ecogn iz e th e term"waria." In many w a yswarias in Ind one siaa r ethe eq u iva le n t o f the gay communi ty in theU. S .One of Ind o nes ia 's bigg est cel ebrit i es, who se popula rity is c om para b l e t o Oprah's,  is a wa ria named Dorce Ga malam a.Dorcest art ed of f as a you ng bo y in s ho w busi nessan d transi tioned into her waria i dentit y asa t eenager i n f r ont  of milli onsof Indones ian s.
This  is not t o sa y  t hat lifeis a cakewalkf or  wa r i as . Familiesr a r ely  cele bra t e when  the y discover that t h eir son is a w aria . Evi e,O bama 's  famous nanny,  su ff e r ed great ly  after Obam a's fami ly leftIndone sia. L ike oth e r  w a rias w ho l ack ed resour ces  o r  family  s up p ort, s he f el l into  prost i tuti o n , experiencing v iolen c e  from her  clie nt s and l o calpolice. Th ough warias  may p rayin mo sques a smen an d c el ebrate Ram a dan withtheir  commun it ies,  th ey som etim e s  find  the ms elv es the ta r g et of  I s lam ic e xtrem is ts.To be a w a ria is t o l e ad a li fe  of e xtreme s ,o n e of bothtri umpha n d tragedy. 
Asa n
 so_openly in_Indonesia, a country with_the world's_largest_Muslim population._Like_many Americans I_had this notion_of Islam as being_oppressive and particularly_unforgiving_toward sexual minorities. How could a community of warias possibly exist?

Three years later my_curiosity_as a_filmmaker_got_the better of me. I_took some Indonesian language classes_and traveled_to Indonesia to experience the lives of warias_firsthand._Under the counsel_of Dr. Tom Boellstorff, an anthropologist with 20 years_of field experience working with the_queer community in_Indonesia,_I_landed in Makassar, a_coastal city in eastern Indonesia known_for both its strong Muslim faith_and historic openness toward transgender individuals.

I quickly_discovered that warias in Indonesia are_different from transgender women in_the United_States. For religious reasons, many_are not interested_in sex-reassignment_surgeries. As one_waria explained to me, "We believe_we were born_as men and must return to_God_as men." Warias_also_hold_notions of_womanhood that would_dismay_modern feminists;_for_many warias, the height of happiness_is_to find a "laki-laki asli," a manly_man, and to spend_their_days looking after him.

Perhaps_the most striking feature about_transgender women in Indonesia is their_visibility in_daily life,_particularly in the beauty and entertainment industries. Many Indonesians are still_unfamiliar with the terms "gay" or_"lesbi" ("lesbian"), but they'll_undoubtedly recognize_the_term "waria." In_many_ways warias_in Indonesia are the equivalent of the_gay community_in the U.S. One of Indonesia's_biggest celebrities, whose popularity_is_comparable to Oprah's, is a waria_named Dorce Gamalama. Dorce started off_as a young boy in_show_business_and transitioned into her waria_identity as a teenager in front_of millions of_Indonesians.

This is not to say that life_is_a cakewalk for warias. Families rarely_celebrate_when they discover that their son_is_a_waria. Evie, Obama's famous nanny,_suffered greatly after Obama's family left_Indonesia. Like other warias who lacked resources or family_support, she fell_into prostitution, experiencing violence from_her_clients_and local police. Though warias may pray in mosques as_men and_celebrate Ramadan with_their communities, they sometimes find themselves the target of Islamic_extremists. To be a waria is to_lead a life of extremes, one of both triumph and tragedy.

As_an