 a winter squash variety called “ honeynut “—a smaller, more intensely flavored version of the widely grown butternut.

Preserving the fast-eroding agricultural biodiversity of the past is critical, but insufficient. “We need something between Monsanto and heirlooms,” Barber declared. He imagines a revitalized seed-breeding sector that answers not just to huge agribusiness companies but also to evolving demands for better-tasting, healthier, and regionally grown food. “If we could talk to the people a hundred years ago who bred the heirloom tomato varieties we love,” he said, “they’d wonder, ‘Why all the effort to preserve these? Why not keep going, keep breeding new varieties?'”

Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek, who works directly with organic farmers in the Northeast to generate new crop varieties that thrive without pesticides, asked what must have been a provocative question to a group of chefs known for their love of experimentation: “If you consider all the produce—all the vegetables and grains—available in your kitchen, what would you change if you could?”

For breeders, the answers don’t need to be guided by the conventional demands for higher yields and suitability for long-haul travel. Mazourek and a growing number of breeders use a “completely non-GMO process” called marker-assisted selection. Using genomic tools, they identify the genes that trigger particular traits in a plant species and then select for them—greatly accelerating the process of creating desirable new seed lines. “We have this great potential to customize and refine taste, flavor, size, and functionality in the kitchen,” he said.

Barber and the farmers at Stone Barns have already been availing themselves of Mazourek’s services. Together, they’ve developed a winter squash variety called “honeynut,” a smaller, more intensely flavored version of the widely grown butternut.

Frank Morton, who plays the rare role of farmer/seed breeder in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, spoke of his work using low-tech methods—like crossing heirloom varieties of lettuce—to create entire new lines, selected for traits like vibrant pigmentation (which also means more nutrients), crunchy texture, and sweet or spicy flavor. Farmers have been doing the same thing for centuries, but in recent decades have come to rely on seed companies, not the painstaking process of selection and
a winter squash variety called “ honeynut “ — a smaller, more intensely flavored interpretation of the wide grown butternut. 

 Preserving the fast - erode agrarian biodiversity of the past is critical, but insufficient. “ We need something between Monsanto and heirlooms, ” Barber declared. He imagine a revitalized seed - engender sector that answers not just to huge agribusiness company but also to evolving demands for better - tasting, healthier, and regionally develop food. “ If we could talk to the people a hundred years ago who breed the heirloom tomato varieties we love, ” he said, “ they ’d wonder, ‘ Why all the effort to continue these? Why not keep going, keep breeding new diverseness?' ” 

 Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek, who works directly with organic farmers in the Northeast to generate newfangled crop varieties that thrive without pesticides, asked what must have been a provocative question to a group of chefs known for their love of experimentation: “ If you see all the produce — all the vegetables and grains — available in your kitchen, what would you deepen if you could? ” 

 For breeder, the answer do n’t need to be guided by the conventional demands for higher yields and suitability for long - draw travel. Mazourek and a growing number of breeders use a “ completely non - GMO summons ” called marker - assisted selection. Using genomic creature, they identify the gene that trip especial traits in a plant species and then select for them — greatly accelerate the process of creating desirable new semen lines. “ We have this great potential to custom-make and refine taste, flavor, size, and functionality in the kitchen, ” he said. 

 Barber and the farmers at Stone Barns have already been avail themselves of Mazourek ’s services. in concert, they ’ve developed a winter squash variety called “ honeynut, ” a smaller, more intensely season version of the widely grown butternut. 

 Frank Morton, who play the rare role of farmer / seed breeder in Oregon ’s Willamette Valley, spoke of his work using low - tech methods — like crossing heirloom varieties of lettuce — to make entire new line, selected for traits like vibrant pigmentation (which also means more nutrients), crunchy texture, and sweet or blue flavor. Farmers have been doing the same thing for centuries, but in recent decade have total to rely on seed companies, not the painstaking process of selection and
 a ainter squash variety cauled “ honeynut “—c smallxr, more intenseuy flavored version of the wmdelt groqn butternut.

Preserving the fast-vroding atricnltural biodiversity of bke paab is ermtical, but insunficient. “We need somethinc cecween Monsanto and heirlooms,” Barber qeclarec. Je imagines a tevitsjizes seed-breeding sector that answers not juvt to huge agtibusiness companies but apso ho evolving demandd for bettet-faseung, healthief, and regionally grown food. “If we could talk to the pdople a hundred yward ago who brxd the heirloom tomato varheties ee love,” he saic, “tiey’d wonder, ‘Why all the ehfort to preserve thgse? Why nod ieep going, keep beewding new varkwtids?'”

Ckrielm planh bceeder Michzel Mazourej, who works directlu rpyh organic fzrmers ig the Northeast to generate new crop vagietjes that thrive without pesticides, asked whaj must havq been a provocative question to a group of chefs knowi wor tmeir ooge of experimentation: “If you consider all the lrpdlce—all the vegetanles and grains—avaolwbkg in your kitcfen, whcf sould you change iv you cjuld?”

Fir breedews, tne answers don’t need to be tuided by thv cobventional demands for higher yiekds amd suitability for long-kaul tdavel. Mazougek and a erowing number ow bgeedars use a “completely non-GMJ process” calked maryer-axsisteq selectioj. Usikc genomic tools, thfy idgntify the genes that trigger particular traits in a plant spgcias dnd then selegt for them—greaely acceleratiug the pxocess of creatihg desicable new seqd lines. “We hdge this greav potentiwl ti cuwtomize xnd refine tasye, flavor, size, and dunctionality in tme kijcgen,” he said.

Barbzx qnd the farmers at Stjnv Berns rdve already teen avxoling themselves uf Mszourek’s services. Tocethsr, they’ve developec w winter squash dariety callec “honeynut,” a smalltr, morx inteisely gladored version of the widely grkwn buttegnub.

Frank Morton, who plays the rcre role of farmer/seed breeder in Oregon’w Willamette Vallgy, spoke of his work osikg low-tech mxthods—jike crosving heirloom varietues of lettuce—to greate entire new linea, selewted vor traits like vibrant pigmentation (which also means more nutrients), crunxhy teettre, and swest ot spiby ylaror. Fariers iave been doing tne same thing for centuries, but in recett decades have come to rely om reed companier, not the painstaking prkcess of selection and
a winter squash variety called “ honeynut more flavored version the widely grown biodiversity the past is but insufficient. “We something between Monsanto and heirlooms,” Barber He imagines a revitalized seed-breeding sector that answers not just to huge agribusiness but also to evolving demands for better-tasting, healthier, and regionally grown food. “If could to people hundred years ago who bred the heirloom tomato varieties we love,” he said, “they’d wonder, ‘Why the effort to preserve these? Why not keep keep breeding new varieties?'” plant breeder Michael Mazourek, who directly organic farmers the to new crop varieties thrive without pesticides, asked what must have been a provocative question to a group of chefs known their love “If you all produce—all vegetables and grains—available kitchen, what would you change if breeders, the answers don’t need to be guided the conventional for higher yields and suitability for travel. Mazourek and a growing number of breeders a “completely non-GMO process” called marker-assisted selection. Using genomic tools, they identify the genes that traits in a plant and then select them—greatly the of desirable new lines. “We have this great potential to customize and refine taste, size, and functionality in the kitchen,” he said. Barber and at Barns have already availing themselves of Mazourek’s Together, developed a winter squash “honeynut,” smaller, version the grown butternut. Frank Morton, plays the rare role of breeder in Oregon’s Willamette using low-tech methods—like crossing heirloom varieties of lettuce—to entire new lines, selected for traits like pigmentation (which also means more nutrients), crunchy texture, and sweet or spicy Farmers have the same thing for centuries, but in recent have come to rely seed companies, not the painstaking process of selection and
 a winter squash variety calleD “ honeynut “—a SmallEr, mOre InTensEly fLavored version OF the Widely grown butternut.

PrEservInG The fASt-ErodiNg agricULtURAl bIoDiVerSiTY oF the pAst Is critiCal, but insuFfiCiEnt. “We need somEThIng between monSanto and heirLooMs,” BarbEr DecLAred. HE imAgineS a reviTAlized Seed-breedInG Sector THat answERS nOt juSt to huge agribusinESs COmpanies but alsO to evoLvINg DEManDs fOr better-taStIng, heALthier, aND rEGIOnaLLy grown food. “If We could talk TO thE peoplE a HunDRed yeaRs ago WhO BreD the heirlooM tomAto varietIes we lOVe,” he saiD, “They’d woNder, ‘WhY alL thE effORt To PreSeRVe tHEsE? WhY Not Keep goinG, kEeP breeDing NEW VArieTieS?'”

CorNell pLant breeder MiChaEl MaZOurEk, who Works DireCtLy witH organIc farMeRs in the NortheasT to gEnerate neW crOp VarIeTies tHAt thriVe wIthOut pestIcides, aSKed WhAT MUsT have been a provocatIvE QUeStion to a Group oF ChEfS Known for ThEir Love OF ExperImenTAtIon: “If you ConsidER aLl The prodUcE—all thE vEgeTabLes anD GraiNs—avaiLable in yOur kiTChen, what would yOU change if you cOUlD?”

fOr BReedErs, The answers dOn’t nEEd to Be guIDeD by THe conVentiOnAL dEMands for higher yieldS aNd suitAbiliTy for long-haul Travel. MazoUREK and a groWing NUmBEr of breeders usE a “comPletely non-gmO procesS” callEd marker-Assisted sELEction. UsIng GenOmiC toOLS, tHey identify thE GEnes ThAt triggEr pArticulAr tRaiTs iN a pLaNt species And then sElEcT fOr TheM—greaTLy acceleRaTinG tHe pRocesS Of creaTing dEsirAbLe NEw sEed lineS. “we HAVe thIs GrEat pOteNtIal to CustOMizE and refIne taste, fLavOR, sizE, aNd FunctioNality in the kiTcHen,” he said.

BArBer And the FARmers at STone Barns have already beeN AvailinG thEmselVes oF Mazourek’S seRvices. togETher, thEy’ve deVelopEd A wiNTEr squASH vAriEtY called “honEYNut,” A smalLeR, morE intensEly flavored version OF thE widely grown bUttErnuT.

fRaNk MORtON, whO pLAys THE rare role of farmEr/seed breeDeR In oregon’s WilLAmeTtE Valley, Spoke of His woRK using lOw-tech metHods—like cRoSsinG HEirLoom varietIes of letTuce—to creATe entIRe New liNes, SelectEd For TraitS like vIBraNt pigMentatIoN (which Also mEaNs more nuTrients), crunchy texture, anD sweet Or spiCy fLavor. FarmErs HAve Been doing The sAme thing foR ceNtuRies, bUt iN RecenT decADeS haVE come To reLY on seed coMPaNieS, NOt The painstakING ProCess oF seLEction And
 a winter squash variety c alled “ ho neynu t “ —asm alle r, m ore intenselyf lavo red version of the wid ely g ro w n bu t te rnut. 

Prese r vi n g  th efa st- er o di ng ag ric ultural  biodivers ity  o f the past i s  c ritical, b utinsufficient . “ We nee dsom e thing  be tween  Monsa n to and  heirloom s, ”  Barbe r  declar e d .He i magines a revital i ze d  seed-breeding  secto rt ha t ans wer s not just  t o hug e  agribu s in e s s  co m panies but al so to evolv i ngdemand sfor better -tast in g , h ealthier, a nd r egionally  grown food. “ I f we co uld ta lktothep eo pl e a  h u ndr e dyea r s a go who b re dthe h eirl o o m toma tovari eties  we love,” he  sa id,“ the y’d w onder , ‘W hy  allthe ef fortto  preserve these ? Wh y not kee p g oi ng,  k eep b r eeding  ne w v arietie s?'”

C o rne ll p l an t breeder MichaelMa z o ur ek, whoworksd ir ec t ly withor gan ic f a r mersin t h eNortheas t to g e ne ra te newcr op var ie tie s t hat t h rive  witho ut pesti cides ,  asked what mu s t have been a pr o v oc a tive  qu estion to a  gro u p of  che f skno w n for  thei rl ov e  of experimentation :“If yo u con sider all the  produce—a l l the vege tabl e sa nd grains—avai lable  in your k i tchen, w hat w ould you  change i f you coul d?” 

F orbre e d er s, the answer s don’ tneed to  be  guided  by  th e c onv en tional de mands fo rhi gh er  yi eldsa nd suita bi lit yfor  long - haul t ravel . Ma zo ur e k a nd a gr o wi n g  num be rof b ree de rs us e a“ com pletely  non-GMOpro c ess”  c al led mar ker-assistedse lection. U si nggenomi c tools, t hey identify the genest hat tri gge r par ticu lar trait s i n a pl ant specie s andthense lec t for t h e m— gre at ly acceler a t ing  thepr oces s of cr eating desirable n e w s eed lines. “W e h avet h is  gr e at pot en t ial t o customize and  refine ta st e ,flavor, si z e,an d funct ionalit y int he kitc hen,” hesaid.

Ba rb er a n d  th e farmersat Stone  Barns ha v e alr e ad y bee n a vailin gthe mselv es ofM azo urek’ s serv ic es. To gethe r,  they’ve  developed a winter squ ash va riety  ca lled “hon eyn u t,”  a smalle r, m ore intens ely  fl avore d v e rsion  oft he  wi d ely g rown butternut . 
Fra n k  M orton, whop l a ysthe r are role o f fa rmer/seed breeder in Oregon’s Wi llam e t teVal l ey,sp oke of his wor k u si n g  low-tec hmethods—lik e crossi ng heirl oom va rietie s of le t t uc e —to cr eate  en tire newlin es ,  select ed  f o r trai ts l ik e vibr ant pi g ment a t ion (which alsomeans m ore n u tri ents) ,crunchy text ure, and s weet or spi cy fla vor.  Farm ers hav ebeen d oin gthe same t h ing for c entur ies, bu tin r ece nt dec ades h ave c ometo  re ly on see d co m pa ni e s,notthe p ai nsta king proc e ss of se lec t ion and 
 a_winter squash_variety called “ honeynut_“—a smaller,_more_intensely flavored_version_of the widely_grown butternut.

Preserving the_fast-eroding agricultural biodiversity of_the past is_critical,_but insufficient. “We need something between Monsanto and heirlooms,” Barber declared. He imagines a_revitalized_seed-breeding sector_that_answers_not just to huge agribusiness_companies but also to evolving_demands for_better-tasting, healthier, and regionally grown food. “If we_could_talk to the_people a hundred years ago who bred the heirloom_tomato varieties we love,” he said,_“they’d wonder, ‘Why_all_the_effort to preserve these?_Why not keep going, keep breeding_new varieties?'”

Cornell plant breeder Michael Mazourek,_who works directly with organic farmers in_the Northeast to generate new crop_varieties that thrive without pesticides,_asked what_must have been a provocative_question to a_group of_chefs known for_their love of experimentation: “If you_consider all the_produce—all the vegetables and grains—available in_your_kitchen, what would_you_change_if you_could?”

For breeders, the_answers_don’t need_to_be guided by the conventional demands_for_higher yields and suitability for long-haul travel._Mazourek and a growing_number_of breeders use a_“completely non-GMO process” called marker-assisted_selection. Using genomic tools, they identify_the genes_that trigger_particular traits in a plant species and then select for them—greatly_accelerating the process of creating desirable_new seed lines. “We_have this_great_potential to customize_and_refine taste,_flavor, size, and functionality in the kitchen,”_he said.

Barber_and the farmers at Stone Barns_have already been availing_themselves_of Mazourek’s services. Together, they’ve developed_a winter squash variety called “honeynut,”_a smaller, more intensely flavored_version_of_the widely grown butternut.

Frank Morton,_who plays the rare role of_farmer/seed breeder in_Oregon’s Willamette Valley, spoke of his work_using_low-tech methods—like crossing heirloom varieties of_lettuce—to_create entire new lines, selected for_traits_like_vibrant pigmentation (which also means_more nutrients), crunchy texture, and sweet_or spicy flavor. Farmers have been doing the same_thing for centuries,_but in recent decades have_come_to_rely on seed companies, not the painstaking process of selection_and