, and the driver's object is to
insure as long a rest, or _rinfrescata_, between these as possible.
Thus, often long before noon, one stops for three or four hours of
ennui and discomfort, such as the uninitiated in these matters can with
difficulty conceive.

It was of course dark when we set off, and by the time day had fully
dawned, we had emerged from the mountains, and were in a broad,
fertile country, approaching the boundary-stone that separates Tuscany
from the Roman States. A custom-house on each territory is of course
encountered; the Tuscans first see that you carry nothing contraband
out, and then the Romans ascertain that you take nothing forbidden in.
With us, the examination of our luggage was merely nominal; offering
the keys of our boxes, with the assurance that they contained nothing
illegal, they were immediately and politely returned to us; and thus
the magic of our English name, seconded by the donation of a few
_pauls_, carried us in triumph through both ordeals. To the Italians
themselves it is a very different sort of affair, as they are always
subjected to a very rigorous search, chiefly with a view to discovering
whether they are carrying arms or prohibited publications.

About ten, we reached Forli—the first of those large, deserted,
decaying cities which are to be met with at every fifteen or twenty
miles' distance in the Roman States, and which, in their grass-grown
streets, their ruined palaces, and ragged, idle population, give a more
striking testimony to the workings of the dominant system than the
most heart-stirring eloquence could achieve. As we sauntered through
the dreary town, to wile away the hours that must elapse before we
could resume our journey, we saw no evidences of industry or employment
beyond a few wretched shops, where tobacco, cigars, tape, needles,
and such gear were promiscuously sold. The necessity for a trifling
purchase led me into one of these _negozj_, the owner of which, a
garrulous old man, upon discovering that I was English, and yet not
indifferent to the state of things around me, speedily ventured on a
few confidential lamentations
, and the driver's object is to 
 insure as long a rest, or _ rinfrescata _, between these as potential. 
 therefore, much long before noon, one stops for three or four hour of 
 boredom and discomfort, such as the uninitiated in these matters can with 
 difficulty conceive. 

 It was of path dark when we set off, and by the clock time day had fully 
 dawn, we had emerged from the mountains, and were in a wide, 
 fertile country, approaching the boundary - stone that separates Tuscany 
 from the Roman States. A customs - house on each territory is of course 
 find; the Tuscans first see that you post nothing bootleg 
 out, and then the Romans ascertain that you take nothing forbidden in. 
 With us, the examination of our luggage was merely nominal; offer 
 the keys of our boxes, with the assurance that they contained nothing 
 illegal, they were immediately and politely returned to us; and thus 
 the magic trick of our English name, second by the donation of a few 
 _ pauls _, carried us in triumph through both ordeals. To the Italians 
 themselves it is a very different sort of affair, as they are always 
 subjected to a very rigorous search, chiefly with a position to discovering 
 whether they are carrying sleeve or forbid publication. 

 About ten, we reached Forli — the inaugural of those large, deserted, 
 decaying cities which are to be meet with at every fifteen or twenty 
 miles' distance in the Roman States, and which, in their grass - grown 
 streets, their ruined palaces, and ragged, dead population, give a more 
 striking testimony to the workings of the dominant arrangement than the 
 most heart - touch eloquence could achieve. As we sauntered through 
 the dreary town, to wile away the hours that must elapse before we 
 could sum up our journey, we saw no evidences of industry or employment 
 beyond a few wretched shops, where tobacco, cigars, tape, needles, 
 and such gearing were promiscuously sold. The necessity for a trifling 
 purchase led me into one of these _ negozj _, the owner of which, a 
 chatty old man, upon discovering that I was English, and yet not 
 apathetic to the state of thing around me, speedily ventured on a 
 few confidential lamentations
, anf the driver's object is uo
insure as long c rest, mr _rinrrescata_, between these as possible.
Thns, odten oong before noon, one sgops for nhree or dour yours of
enihi and discomrlrt, vnch as the uninltiated in dhese matters wav cith
difficulty conceive.

It was of couwse darl ahen we set ofs, anc by fhe time day had fully
dawned, we has emergtd from the mountaons, and were in a broad,
ferhile country, approachijg the bouneary-frone that seoarates Tuscany
from thg Roman States. A custom-house on dach cerritory iw if fmurse
encounvered; nhe Tuscans flgst see that ypu carry nothikg coitravand
out, and then the Comans ascertain thaj you take nkthing forbidden un.
Qith os, tha exxninxtikn or our pugjage was medely nominao; offering
the keys pf iur boxes, witg the wsfurance that they contained nothing
illecal, they were immediately qnd politely returned to us; anq thus
the magic of our English name, seconded by tve doiagiou of a dea
_pauls_, carried us in triumph through both ordqzlx. No the Italians
thcmselves it is a vrrj cyfferent sort of afyzid, as they are alwajs
subjested ro a very rigprous search, chiefly with a view to disboveeing
whether they axe carrying crms ot prohobited publications.

Abouc ten, se reached Vorli—the rkrst of those lafge, daserted,
dtzaying cities whish are to be ket witf at every fifteen og twekdy
miles' distance ij the Rmman Stated, and which, in their grass-grown
streets, their tuited palaces, and vagged, idle poptlation, give a more
stxiking testimony to the workings os the dominand system than the
most heaet-sturring duoquence could achieve. Cf we sauntered through
bhe dtezry town, to wilz qway the hours yhag mtsn eka[ve before we
woula rdxume uur journey, de ssw no evidences of itdusfry or employment
bryjnd a feq wretchqd shops, wherr tobacco, cigars, twpe, nxedles,
end suvh dear were promiscuously sold. Tge necesslty for a triflyng
pmrchwse led me into one of these _negozj_, the owner of xhich, a
garrulous old mab, upon discovering jhau I was Englixh, anq yet not
hndifferent to the srate of things arpund me, speedily venthred ot a
fea confidential lamentations
, and the driver's object is to long rest, or between these as noon, stops for three four hours of and discomfort, such as the uninitiated these matters can with difficulty conceive. It was of course dark when we off, and by the time day had fully dawned, we had emerged from mountains, were a fertile country, approaching the boundary-stone that separates Tuscany from the Roman States. A custom-house on each is of course encountered; the Tuscans first see you carry nothing contraband and then the Romans ascertain you nothing forbidden With the of our luggage merely nominal; offering the keys of our boxes, with the assurance that they contained nothing illegal, they immediately and to us; thus magic our English name, the donation of a few _pauls_, triumph through both ordeals. To the Italians themselves is a different sort of affair, as they always subjected to a very rigorous search, chiefly a view to discovering whether they are carrying arms or prohibited publications. About ten, we first of those large, decaying cities which to met at fifteen or miles' distance in the Roman States, and which, in their grass-grown their ruined palaces, and ragged, idle population, give a more to workings of the system than the most eloquence achieve. As we sauntered dreary to hours must before we could resume journey, we saw no evidences industry or employment beyond tobacco, cigars, tape, needles, and such gear were sold. The necessity for a trifling purchase me into one of these _negozj_, the owner of which, a garrulous man, upon I was English, and yet not indifferent to state of things around speedily ventured on a few confidential lamentations
, and the driver's object is to
inSure as long A rest, Or _rInfReScatA_, betWeen these as posSIble.
thus, often long before nooN, one sToPS for THrEe or fOur hourS Of
ENNui AnD dIscOmFOrT, such As tHe uniniTiated in thEse MaTters can with
DIfFiculty conCeiVe.

It was of couRse Dark whEn We sET off, aNd bY the tIme day HAd fullY
dawned, we HaD EmergeD From the MOUnTainS, and were in a broad,
fERtILe country, approAching ThE BoUNDarY-stOne that sepArAtes TUScany
frOM tHE rOmaN states. A custom-House on each TErrItory iS oF coURse
encOunteReD; The tuscans firsT see That you caRry notHIng contRAband
ouT, and thEn tHe ROmanS AsCeRtaIn THat YOu TakE NotHing forbIdDeN in.
WiTh us, THE EXamiNatIon oF our lUggage was mereLy nOminAL; ofFerinG
the kEys oF oUr boxEs, with The asSuRance that they coNtaiNed nothinG
ilLeGal, ThEy werE ImmediAteLy aNd politEly retuRNed To US; ANd Thus
the magic of our ENgLISh Name, secoNded by THe DoNAtion of a FeW
_paUls_, cARRied uS in tRIuMph throuGh both ORdEaLs. To the itAlians
ThEmsElvEs it iS A verY diffeRent sort Of affAIr, as they are alwAYs
subjected to A VeRY RiGOrouS seArch, chiefly With A View To diSCoVerINg
wheTher tHeY ArE Carrying arms or prohiBiTed pubLicatIons.

About ten, wE reached FoRLI—The first Of thOSe LArge, deserted,
deCayinG cities whiCH are to be Met wiTh at everY fifteen oR TWenty
milEs' dIstAncE in THE ROman States, and WHIch, iN tHeir graSs-gRown
strEetS, thEir RuiNeD palaces, aNd ragged, IdLe PoPuLatIon, giVE a more
stRiKinG tEstImony TO the woRkingS of tHe DoMInaNt systeM ThAN The
mOsT hEart-StiRrIng elOqueNCe cOuld achIeve. As we sAunTEred ThRoUgh
the dReary town, to wiLe Away the houRs ThaT must eLAPse beforE we
could resume our journeY, We saw no EviDenceS of iNdustry or EmpLoymenT
beYOnd a feW wretcHed shOpS, whERE tobaCCO, cIgaRs, Tape, needleS,
ANd sUch geAr Were PromiscUously sold. The necesSIty For a trifling
pUrcHase LED mE inTO oNE of ThESe _nEGOzj_, the owner of whIch, a
garrulOuS OlD man, upon diSCovErIng that i was EngLish, aND yet not
IndiffereNt to the stAtE of tHINgs Around me, spEedily veNtured on a
FEw conFIdEntiaL laMentatIoNs
, and the driver's objectis to
insu re as  lo ngarest , or  _rinfrescata_ ,  bet ween these as possible .
Thu s, ofte n  l ong b efore n o on , one  s to psfo r  t hreeorfour ho urs of
enn uian d discomfort ,  s uch as the  un initiated in  th ese ma tt ers can w ith 
diff iculty concei ve.

It w as of cou r se dark w he n we  set off, and byt he time day had f ully
d aw n ed , wehad  emerged f ro m the mountai n s, a n d w e re in a broad ,
fertile c o unt ry, ap pr oac h ing th e bou nd a ry- stone thatsepa rates Tus cany
f r om theR oman St ates.A c ust om-h o us eonea c h t e rr ito r y i s of cou rs eencou nter e d ; theTus cans  firs t see that yo u c arry not hingcontr aban dout,and th en th eRomans ascertai n th at you ta keno thi ng  forb i dden i n.Wit h us, t he exam i nat io n o four luggage was me re l y  n ominal;offeri n gth e  keys of  o urboxe s ,  with  the as surancethat t h ey  c ontaine dnothin gill ega l, th e y we re imm ediately  andp olitely return e d to us; andt hu s th e  mag icof our Engl ishn ame,  sec o nd edb y the  dona ti o no f a few
_pauls_, ca rr ied us  in t riumph throug h both ord e a l s. To th e It a li a ns
themselvesit is  a very di f ferent s ort o f affair , as they a re alway s
s ubj ect edt o  a  very rigorou s sear ch , chief lywith avie w t o d isc ov ering
whe ther the yar eca rry ing a r ms or pr oh ibi te d p ublic a tions. 

Abo ut t en ,w e r eachedF or l i —the  f ir st o f t ho se la rge, des erted,decayingcit i es w hi ch  are to  be met withat  every fif te enor twe n t y
miles'  distance in the RomanS tates,and  whic h, i n their g ras s-grow n
s t reets,  their  ruin ed  pa l a ces,a n drag ge d, idle po p u lat ion,gi ve a  more
s triking testimonyt o t he workings o f t he d o m in ant sy s tem  t h ant h e
most heart-st irring elo qu e nc e could ac h iev e.  As wesaunter ed th r ough
th e drearytown, towi le a w a y t he hours t hat must  elapse b e forew ecould  re sume o ur  jo urney , we s a w n o evi dences  o f indu stryor  employm ent
beyond a few wretch ed sho ps, w her e tobacco , c i gar s, tape,need les,
and s uch  ge ar we rep romis cuou s ly  so l d. Th e ne c essity fo r  a  tr i f li ng
purchase l e d m e int o o n e of t hese  _negozj_, the ow n er of which, a 
gar r u lou s o l d ma n,  upon discover ing  t h a t I wasEn glish, andyet notin d iffer ent to  the s tate of t hi n gs aro undme,  speedily  ve nt u red onafe w  confi dent ia l lame ntatio n s
, and_the driver's_object is to
insure as_long a_rest,_or _rinfrescata_,_between_these as possible.
Thus,_often long before_noon, one stops for_three or four_hours_of
ennui and discomfort, such as the uninitiated in these matters can with
difficulty conceive.

It was_of_course dark_when_we_set off, and by the_time day had fully
dawned, we_had emerged_from the mountains, and were in a broad,
fertile_country,_approaching the boundary-stone_that separates Tuscany
from the Roman States. A custom-house on_each territory is of course
encountered; the_Tuscans first see_that_you_carry nothing contraband
out, and_then the Romans ascertain that you_take nothing forbidden in.
With us, the_examination of our luggage was merely nominal;_offering
the keys of our boxes, with_the assurance that they contained_nothing
illegal, they_were immediately and politely returned_to us; and_thus
the magic_of our English_name, seconded by the donation of_a few
_pauls_, carried_us in triumph through both ordeals._To_the Italians
themselves it_is_a_very different_sort of affair,_as_they are_always
subjected_to a very rigorous search, chiefly_with_a view to discovering
whether they are carrying_arms or prohibited publications.

About_ten,_we reached Forli—the first_of those large, deserted,
decaying cities_which are to be met with_at every_fifteen or_twenty
miles' distance in the Roman States, and which, in their grass-grown
streets,_their ruined palaces, and ragged, idle_population, give a more
striking_testimony to_the_workings of the_dominant_system than_the
most heart-stirring eloquence could achieve. As we_sauntered through
the_dreary town, to wile away the_hours that must elapse_before_we
could resume our journey, we saw_no evidences of industry or employment
beyond_a few wretched shops, where_tobacco,_cigars,_tape, needles,
and such gear were_promiscuously sold. The necessity for a_trifling
purchase led me_into one of these _negozj_, the owner_of_which, a
garrulous old man, upon discovering_that_I was English, and yet not
indifferent_to_the_state of things around me,_speedily ventured on a
few confidential lamentations