, a place which presents the strongest
contrast of wealth and poverty it has ever been my lot to witness, or
entered my imagination to conceive.




CHAPTER XXVI.

   Visit to the Carmelites at Jesi—Our joyous reception—The Casino
     and Theatre—Infractions of Convent Discipline—The Dinner near
     the Sacristy—In company with the Friars we visit some Nuns.


A few days after my excursion to Loretto, I had my last glimpse of
_real_ scenes and life in the Marches, in a visit to Jesi, a small
city of great antiquity, about twenty miles distant from Ancona. The
circumstances that led us thither hinged upon the acquaintance of
my uncle's family with an Irish priest who belonged to a convent of
Carmelites in that place. Father O'Grady was a jovial, burly personage,
with a round bullet-head, an athletic frame, and a stentorian voice,
that always reminded me of the holy clerk of Copmanhurst in _Ivanhoe_.
His great delight in his occasional visits to Ancona, where he always
lodged in a monastery of the same order, was to be invited to our
house to have “a raal English dhinner,” as he termed it, which he
dolorously contrasted with the fare provided by the cook at the Jesi
convent. Once, too, the provincial of the order, a fine, dignified
old man of seventy-five, with a silvery fringe of hair, and regular,
impressive features, like one of Perugino's saints, came to dine with
us, attended by another monk, a certain Padre Forenzo, as well as
Father O'Grady—both of them very much subdued in his presence. Our
Hibernian friend, however, always protested himself indemnified for
this restraint, by his gratification at the approval the entertainment
drew from his superior, who, as the spring advanced, was urgent that we
should test the hospitality of Jesi in return.

Some English travelling friends, waiting for the steamer to Trieste,
were comprised in this invitation, which my uncle, though not without
some sighs at the long hours of _conversazione_, and making the amiable
with
, a place which presents the strongest 
 contrast of wealth and poverty it has always been my fortune to witness, or 
 entered my resource to conceive. 




 CHAPTER XXVI. 

    inflict to the Carmelites at Jesi — Our joyous reception — The Casino 
      and Theatre — Infractions of Convent Discipline — The Dinner near 
      the Sacristy — In company with the friar we inflict some Nuns. 


 A few days after my excursion to Loretto, I had my last glance of 
 _ real _ scenes and life in the Marches, in a visit to Jesi, a belittled 
 city of great antiquity, about twenty miles distant from Ancona. The 
 fortune that led us thither hinged upon the acquaintance of 
 my uncle's family with an Irish priest who belong to a convent of 
 Carmelites in that place. Father O'Grady was a jovial, burly personage, 
 with a orotund bullet - principal, an athletic frame, and a stentorian part, 
 that always reminded me of the holy clerk of Copmanhurst in _ Ivanhoe _. 
 His great delight in his occasional visits to Ancona, where he always 
 lodged in a monastery of the same order, was to be invited to our 
 house to have “ a raal English dhinner, ” as he termed it, which he 
 dolorously contrasted with the fare supply by the cook at the Jesi 
 convent. Once, too, the provincial of the order, a fine, dignified 
 previous man of seventy - five, with a silvery fringe of hair, and even, 
 impressive features, like one of Perugino's saints, came to dine with 
 us, attended by another monk, a sealed Padre Forenzo, as well as 
 Father O'Grady — both of them very much subdued in his presence. Our 
 Hibernian friend, however, always protested himself indemnified for 
 this restraint, by his gratification at the approval the entertainment 
 drew from his superior, who, as the give advanced, was pressing that we 
 should screen the hospitality of Jesi in return. 

 Some English travelling friends, expect for the steamer to Trieste, 
 were comprised in this invitation, which my uncle, though not without 
 some sighs at the retentive hours of _ conversazione _, and making the amiable 
 with
, a olace which presents the strongest
contrcwt of xealth znd povefty it has ever been my lot vo wutnesw, or
entered my imaginagion to clnceive.




CYAPTTR XXVI.

   Visit to the Cavielifcs at Oesi—Our joyous teception—The Casino
     ang Ghzatre—Infractions of Convent Disciplige—The Donjer near
     tre Sssrisfj—Ik company with the Friars we visjt some Nuns.


A few daus after my excursion to Llretho, I had my last gpimpse of
_reql_ sswnes and lifd in the Marches, in a bisit to Jesi, a small
city of grdat autiquity, abiur tagnty miles dmstant from Ancona. The
circgmstancrs that led us thmthee hinged upon the acqnaintance of
my uncle'f family fich an Irish priest whi velonced do a xonxenu oh
Cadmelitfs mn that plade. Father O'Trady was a jovial, nuwoy personage,
wjth a wotnd bullet-head, an athletic frame, and a vtehtorian voice,
that alwayw reminded me of the joly clerh of Copmanhurst in _Ivanhoe_.
His great delight in hhs ocrariouql virutd to Ancona, where he always
lodged in a monastqdy on the same order, was to be ongiygd to our
house to hars “z raal English dhijner,” as he twrmed it, rhicn he
dolorously contrasted wuth the fare provided by the colk at the Jzsi
confent. Pnce, too, the provincial of fhe order, a fine, dighkfied
old man of revvnty-xive, with a silvery fringe of hair, end rzgular,
imoresxive fqatures, line onc of Perugino's sainhs, cale to dine wlth
us, attended by another monk, e certain Padte Xorvnzo, as wzll as
Nather O'Grady—boeh of them veri much suydued kn his preaence. Onr
Hibernian sriend, howeves, always protxsted himfelf indwmnifiea for
this restrsint, by hps grarification at the epprubal the entertanumtnr
drew from his suoeryog, wio, as dhe spring agvanzed, eas ufgent that ce
rhoukd test the hospitalhty kf Jesi in return.

Spmc English travellyng friends, wsiting for the stewmer vo Trixste,
wete somprised in this invitation, wgich my ujclc, though not rithiut
some sighx at the long hours of _conversazione_, anv making the amiable
wijh
, a place which presents the strongest wealth poverty it ever been my my to conceive. CHAPTER Visit to the at Jesi—Our joyous reception—The Casino and of Convent Discipline—The Dinner near the Sacristy—In company with the Friars we visit Nuns. A few days after my excursion to Loretto, I had my last of scenes life the Marches, in a visit to Jesi, a small city of great antiquity, about twenty miles from Ancona. The circumstances that led us thither upon the acquaintance of uncle's family with an Irish who to a of in place. Father O'Grady a jovial, burly personage, with a round bullet-head, an athletic frame, and a stentorian voice, that always me of clerk of in His delight in his to Ancona, where he always lodged of the same order, was to be invited our house have “a raal English dhinner,” as termed it, which he dolorously contrasted with the provided by the cook at the Jesi convent. Once, too, the provincial of the order, dignified old man of with a silvery of and impressive like one Perugino's saints, came to dine with us, attended by another monk, certain Padre Forenzo, as well as Father O'Grady—both of them subdued his presence. Our friend, however, always protested indemnified this restraint, by his the the his who, the spring advanced, was that we should test the of Jesi in return. for the steamer to Trieste, were comprised in invitation, which my uncle, though not without sighs at the long hours of _conversazione_, and making the amiable with
, a place which presents the strOngest
contRast oF weAltH aNd poVertY it has ever been MY lot To witness, or
entered my imAginaTiON to cONcEive.




ChAPTER XxvI.

   vISit To ThE CaRmELiTes at jesI—Our joyOus receptiOn—THe casino
     and TheATrE—InfractioNs oF Convent DiscIplIne—The diNneR Near
     tHe SAcrisTy—In coMPany wiTh the FriaRs WE visit SOme Nuns.


a FEw Days After my excursion tO loREtto, I had my last GlimpsE oF
_ReAL_ SceNes And life in tHe marchES, in a visIT tO jESi, a SMall
city of greAt antiquity, ABouT twentY mIleS DistanT from anCOna. the
circumstAnceS that led uS thithER hinged UPon the aCquainTanCe oF
my uNClE's FamIlY WitH An iriSH prIest who bElOnGed to A conVENT Of
CaRmeLiteS in thAt place. Father o'GrAdy wAS a jOvial, Burly PersOnAge,
wiTh a rouNd bulLeT-head, an athletic FramE, and a stenTorIaN voIcE,
that ALways rEmiNdeD me of thE holy clERk oF COPMAnHurst in _Ivanhoe_.
His gReAT DeLight in hIs occaSIoNaL Visits to anConA, wheRE He alwAys
lODgEd in a monAstery OF tHe Same ordEr, Was to bE iNviTed To our
HOuse To have “A raal EngLish dHInner,” as he termeD It, which he
doloROuSLY cONtraSteD with the farE proVIded By thE CoOk aT The JeSi
conVeNT. ONCe, too, the provincial oF tHe ordeR, a finE, dignified
old Man of sevenTY-FIve, with a SilvERy FRinge of hair, and RegulAr,
impressiVE featureS, like One of PerUgino's saiNTS, came to dIne WitH
us, AttENDeD by another monK, A CertAiN Padre FOreNzo, as weLl aS
FaTheR O'GRaDy—both of tHem very mUcH sUbDuEd iN his pREsence. OuR
HIbeRnIan FrienD, HoweveR, alwaYs prOtEsTEd hImself iNDeMNIfieD fOr
This ResTrAint, bY his GRatIficatiOn at the apProVAl thE eNtErtainmEnt
drew from hiS sUperior, who, As The Spring ADVanced, waS urgent that we
should test THe hospiTalIty of jesi In return.

SOme englisH trAVellinG frienDs, waiTiNg fOR The stEAMeR to trIeste,
were cOMPriSed in ThIs inVitatioN, which my uncle, thougH Not Without
some siGhs At thE LOnG hoURs OF _coNvERsaZIOne_, and making the Amiable
witH
, a place which presents t he stronge st
co ntr ast  o f we alth  and poverty i t  has  ever been my lot to w itnes s, or
e n te red m y imagi n at i o n t oco nce iv e .



C HAP TER XXV I.

   Vis itto  the Carmeli t es  at Jesi—O urjoyous recep tio n—TheCa sin o 
    an d The atre—I n fracti ons of Co nv e nt Dis c ipline— T h eDinn er near
     theS ac r isty—In compan y with  t h eF r iar s w e visit so me  Nuns . 


A fe w  d a y s  af t er my excursi on to Loret t o,I hadmy  la s t glim pse o f_ rea l_ scenes a nd l ife in th e Marc h es, ina  visitto Jes i,a s mall ci ty  of  g r eat an tiq u ity , abouttw en ty mi lesd i s t antfro m An cona.  The
circumst anc es t h atled u s thi ther  h inged  uponthe a cq uaintance of
my  unc le's fami lywi than  Iris h  pries t w hobelonge d to ac onv en t o fCarmelites in that  p l a ce . Father  O'Gra d ywa s  a jovia l,  bu rlyp e rsona ge,w it h a roun d bull e t- he ad, anat hletic  f ram e,and a sten torian  voice,thata lways reminded me of the hol y  c l e rk of C opm anhurst in_Iva n hoe_ .
Hi s  g rea t  deli ght i nh is occasional visits t oAncona , whe re he alwayslodged ina m onastery  oft he same order, wa s tobe invited to our
h ouseto have“a raal E n g lish dhi nne r,”  as  he t er med it, which h e
do lo rouslycon trasted  wi ththe  fa re  provided  by theco ok  a tthe  Jesi convent.  O nce ,too , the provin cialof t he  o r der , a fin e ,d i gnif ie doldman  o f sev enty - fiv e, with  a silver y f r inge  o fhair, a nd regular,
i mp ressive fe at ure s, lik e one of P erugino's saints, camet o dinewit h
us,  att ended byano ther m onk ,  a cer tain P adreFo ren z o , asw e ll  as 
F ather O'Gr a d y—b oth o fthem  very m uch subdued in his pre sence. Our
Hi ber nian f ri end ,  h o wev er ,  al w a ys protested hi mself inde mn i fi ed for
thi s  re st raint,by hisgrati f ication  at the a pproval t he  ent e r tai nment
drew  from hi s superio r , who ,  a s the  sp ring a dv anc ed, w as urg e ntthatwe
sho ul d test  theho spitalit y of Jesi in return.

S ome En glish  tr avellingfri e nds , waiting  for  the steam ertoTries te, werecomp r is edi n thi s in v itation,w hi chm y  u ncle, thoug h n otwitho uts ome si ghsat the long hours of _conversazi one_ , and  ma k ingth e amiable
with 
, a_place which_presents the strongest
contrast of_wealth and_poverty_it has_ever_been my lot_to witness, or
entered_my imagination to conceive.




CHAPTER_XXVI.

  _Visit_to the Carmelites at Jesi—Our joyous reception—The Casino
     and Theatre—Infractions_of_Convent Discipline—The_Dinner_near
_    the_Sacristy—In company with the Friars_we visit_some Nuns.


A few days after my excursion to_Loretto,_I had my_last glimpse of
_real_ scenes and life in the Marches,_in a visit to Jesi, a_small
city of great_antiquity,_about_twenty miles distant from_Ancona. The
circumstances that led us thither_hinged upon the acquaintance of
my uncle's_family with an Irish priest who belonged_to a convent of
Carmelites in that_place. Father O'Grady was a_jovial, burly_personage,
with a round bullet-head, an_athletic frame, and_a stentorian_voice,
that always reminded_me of the holy clerk of_Copmanhurst in _Ivanhoe_.
His_great delight in his occasional visits_to_Ancona, where he_always
lodged_in_a monastery_of the same_order,_was to_be_invited to our
house to have “a_raal_English dhinner,” as he termed it, which_he
dolorously contrasted with the_fare_provided by the cook_at the Jesi
convent. Once, too,_the provincial of the order, a_fine, dignified
old_man of_seventy-five, with a silvery fringe of hair, and regular,
impressive features, like_one of Perugino's saints, came to_dine with
us, attended by_another monk,_a_certain Padre Forenzo,_as_well as
Father_O'Grady—both of them very much subdued in_his presence._Our
Hibernian friend, however, always protested himself_indemnified for
this restraint, by_his_gratification at the approval the entertainment
drew_from his superior, who, as the_spring advanced, was urgent that_we
should_test_the hospitality of Jesi in_return.

Some English travelling friends, waiting for_the steamer to_Trieste,
were comprised in this invitation, which my_uncle,_though not without
some sighs at the_long_hours of _conversazione_, and making the_amiable
with