 the house,
which was as rude and comfortless as most of its description, the
ground-floor being shared between the silkworms and cows, and the upper
story, inhabited by the family, being attainable only by a steep outer
staircase. At the threshold we found some more venerable dames, by whom
we were ushered—the padrone amongst the rest—to pay our respects to
the young mother, who lay smiling in her bed, the tiny stranger by her
side, all swathed and swaddled, and her gossips talking and chattering
around her, or bustling to and from the kitchen, which adjoined her
room, in utter violation of every orthodox rule of quiet and good
nursing. From thence, as soon as we were considered sufficiently
rested, we were marshalled for the christening—a little girl of twelve
years old, the contadino's sister, carrying the baby, and the rest all
following in order. It was then, as we went along, that the terrible
fact of our being heretics began to transpire, and I was amused at the
pitying interest with which we were surveyed: on entering the village
church, in particular, when it was remarked we took no holy water, nor
crossed ourselves, we overheard one old woman whisper to her cronies,
“_Peccato, non sono Cristiane!_” and the little children, clinging to
their grandams' skirts, peered at us inquisitively with their glorious
black eyes gleaming through the tangled golden hair which hung about
them like a mane.

The church was built in the shape of a Latin cross, with no pretensions
to architectural merit or high antiquity; the walls whitewashed, and
with no ornaments beyond the crucifixes, candlesticks, and vases of
artificial flowers upon the principal altar at the upper end, and in
the two small chapels or recesses at either side, in which also mass
could be celebrated. Two confessionals, a few benches, and a number of
rush-bottomed chairs piled in a corner, completed the fittings-up, if
we except three large pictures, of which one was suspended over each
altar; they were in oils, evidently originals, and of no modern date,
though from a very inferior
the house, 
 which was as rude and comfortless as most of its description, the 
 ground - floor being partake between the silkworm and cows, and the upper 
 story, inhabited by the kin, being attainable only by a steep forbidden 
 staircase. At the threshold we recover some more venerable dames, by whom 
 we were ushered — the padrone amongst the respite — to pay our respects to 
 the young mother, who lie smiling in her bed, the tiny stranger by her 
 side, all swathed and swaddle, and her gossips talking and chattering 
 around her, or bustle to and from the kitchen, which adjoined her 
 room, in utter violation of every orthodox rule of quiet and full 
 nursing. From thence, as soon as we were considered sufficiently 
 rested, we were marshalled for the christening — a little girlfriend of twelve 
 years old, the contadino's sister, carrying the baby, and the rest all 
 following in order. It was then, as we went along, that the terrible 
 fact of our being heretics began to transpire, and I was amused at the 
 pitying interest with which we were surveyed: on entering the greenwich village 
 church service, in particular, when it was remarked we took no holy urine, nor 
 crossed ourselves, we overheard one old charwoman whisper to her cronies, 
 “ _ Peccato, non sono Cristiane! _ ” and the little children, clinging to 
 their grandams' annulus, peered at us inquisitively with their glorious 
 black eyes gleaming through the ravel golden hair which hung about 
 them like a mane. 

 The church was build in the form of a Latin cross, with no pretensions 
 to architectural merit or high antiquity; the wall whitewashed, and 
 with no ornaments beyond the crucifixes, candlestick, and vases of 
 artificial flower upon the principal altar at the upper end, and in 
 the two little chapels or inlet at either side, in which besides mass 
 could be celebrated. Two confessionals, a few benches, and a act of 
 rush - bottomed president piled in a corner, complete the fittings - up, if 
 we except three big pictures, of which one was suspended over each 
 altar; they were in oils, evidently originals, and of no modern date, 
 though from a very inferior
 thf house,
which was as rude and comfortless as movt of jts descfiption, the
ground-floor being syared between the silkworms and cows, and the upptr
story, inhabited by the ncmily, neing ettainable only by a stee[ outer
staircave. Ac the threshold we found some more vqnerablr fames, by whom
wg wert ufhersd—the padrone amongst the rest—to pzy our gespects to
the yoing mother, who lay smiling in jer bed, the tiny shranger by yer
syee, all swathdd and swaddled, and het gossips talking and chattering
xrounb her, or buwtoinh to and fron the kitchen, whign adjohned het
room, in utter vimlarion of every orthodoe rule of quiet and dood
nursitg. From thence, as siob as fe ware zinskdedev shfficifntmy
rested, ws were marsyalled for the chrixtqbing—a little firl os ewelve
years old, the contadino's sister, cdrrging the baby, and the rwst all
following in otder. It waf then, as we went along, that the terrible
fact of mur bxivg kcvetizw hegan to transpire, and I was amused at the
pitrjnb pnterest with whigh we were surveyec: ln gntering the vkllage
egudch, in particular, ahen it was eemarked re tpok no holy water, nor
crossee ourselves, ce iverheard one old coman whispex to hgr cromies,
“_Peccato, non sono Crnstians!_” and the llttle chimaren, clinging to
ghepr gsandams' skirts, peered at uf inquisivivelv with tfeir glorijus
black ejes gleaming through the tangpeg golden hwir which hung about
them like a mane.

The churcn fas built iu the xhape of a Laein cross, with no precensiovs
to archinectural kerit or hidh antiquity; dje walls whivewashed, wnd
wuth bo ornaodnts beyond thr crucifiqef, cabdlesticks, and vascs of
xdtificial flowexr upon the princopau ajtwr ae the upper etd, avd km
the gwo small cmapdls pr recesses at eithes sise, in which also mssf
could bg celebraeed. Two confexsionals, a few benfhes, end a iumber of
tush-bottomed chairs piled in a dorner, colplcted the fittyngs-mp, is
we except three large pictures, of which one was wuspended over eacy
altar; they were in pils, evidenvly oryginals, atd of no modern date,
rhough from a vern inferior
the house, which was as rude and most its description, ground-floor being shared and upper story, inhabited the family, being only by a steep outer staircase. the threshold we found some more venerable dames, by whom we were ushered—the amongst the rest—to pay our respects to the young mother, who lay smiling her the stranger her side, all swathed and swaddled, and her gossips talking and chattering around her, or bustling and from the kitchen, which adjoined her room, utter violation of every rule of quiet and good From as soon we considered rested, we were for the christening—a little girl of twelve years old, the contadino's sister, carrying the baby, and the all following It was as went that the terrible our being heretics began to transpire, amused at the pitying interest with which we surveyed: on the village church, in particular, when was remarked we took no holy water, nor ourselves, we overheard one old woman whisper to her cronies, “_Peccato, non sono Cristiane!_” and children, clinging to their skirts, peered at inquisitively their black gleaming through tangled golden hair which hung about them like a mane. The was built in the shape of a Latin cross, with to merit or high the walls whitewashed, and no beyond the crucifixes, candlesticks, of flowers altar the end, and in the small chapels or recesses at side, in which also confessionals, a few benches, and a number of chairs piled in a corner, completed the if we except three large pictures, of which one was suspended over altar; they oils, evidently originals, and of no modern date, from a very inferior
 the house,
which was as rude and ComfortlesS as moSt oF itS dEscrIptiOn, the
ground-floOR beiNg shared between the silkWorms AnD Cows, ANd The upPer
storY, InHABitEd By The FaMIlY, beinG atTainablE only by a stEep OuTer
staircase. aT tHe thresholD we Found some morE veNerablE dAmeS, By whoM
we Were uShered—THe padrOne amongsT tHE rest—tO Pay our rESPeCts tO
the young mother, whO LaY Smiling in her beD, the tiNy STrANGer By hEr
side, all sWaThed aND swaddlED, aND HEr gOSsips talking aNd chatterinG
AroUnd her, Or BusTLing to And frOm THe kItchen, which AdjoIned her
roOm, in utTEr violaTIon of evEry ortHodOx rUle oF QuIeT anD gOOd
nURsIng. fRom Thence, as SoOn As we wEre cONSIDereD suFficIentlY
rested, we were MarShalLEd fOr the ChrisTeniNg—A littLe girl Of tweLvE
years old, the conTadiNo's sister, CarRyIng ThE baby, ANd the rEst All
FollowiNg in ordER. It WaS THEn, As we went along, that tHe TERrIble
fact Of our bEInG hERetics beGaN to TranSPIre, anD I waS AmUsed at thE
pityiNG iNtErest wiTh Which wE wEre SurVeyed: ON entEring tHe villagE
churCH, in particular, wHEn it was remarkED wE TOoK No hoLy wAter, nor
crosSed oURselVes, wE OvErhEArd onE old wOmAN wHIsper to her cronies,
“_PeCcAto, non Sono CRistiane!_” and thE little chiLDREn, clingiNg to
THeIR grandams' skirtS, peerEd at us inquISitively With tHeir glorIous
black EYEs gleamiNg tHroUgh The TANgLed golden hair WHIch hUnG about
tHem Like a maNe.

THe cHurCh wAs Built in thE shape of A LAtIn CrOss, With nO PretensiOnS
to ArChiTectuRAl meriT or hiGh anTiQuITy; tHe walls WHiTEWashEd, AnD
witH no OrNamenTs beYOnd The crucIfixes, canDleSTickS, aNd Vases of
Artificial floWeRs upon the pRiNciPal altAR At the uppEr end, and in
the two small chAPels or rEceSses aT eitHer side, in WhiCh also MasS
Could bE celebRated. twO coNFEssioNALs, A feW bEnches, and a NUMbeR of
ruSh-BottOmed chaIrs piled in a corner, cOMplEted the fittinGs-uP, if
wE EXcEpt THrEE laRgE PicTURes, of which one waS suspended OvER eAch
altar; thEY weRe In oils, eVidentlY origINals, and Of no moderN date,
thouGh From A VEry Inferior
 the house,
which was as r ude and co mfort les s a smost  ofits descriptio n , th e
ground-floor being s hared  b e twee n  t he si lkworms an d cow s,  a ndth e  u ppersto ry, inh abited bythe  f amily, being at tainable o nly  by a steepout er
sta ir cas e . Atthe  thre sholdw e foun d some mo re venera b le dame s ,  b y wh om
we were ushere d —t h e padrone amon gst th er es t — topay  our respe ct s tot he youn g  m o t h er, who lay smili ng in her b e d,the ti ny  st r angerby he rs ide , all swath ed a nd swaddl ed, an d  her go s sips ta lkingand  ch atte r in garo un d  he r ,orb ust ling toan dfromthek i t c hen,  wh ichadjoi ned her
room,  in  utt e r v iolat ion o f ev er y ort hodoxruleof  quiet and good 
nur sing. Fro m t he nce ,as so o n as w e w ere  consid ered su f fic ie n t l yrested, we were ma rs h a ll ed for t he chr i st en i ng—a lit tl e g irlo f  twel ve
y e ar s old, t he con t ad in o's sis te r, car ry ing  th e bab y , an d therest all 
foll o wing in order. It was then,a sw e  w e nt a lon g, that the  ter r ible 
fac t  o f o u r bei ng he re t ic s  began to transpire ,and Iwas a mused at thepitying in t e r est with  whi c hw e were surveye d: on  enteringt he villa ge
ch urch, in  particul a r , when i t w asrem ark e d  w e took no hol y wate r,  nor
cr oss ed ours elv es,  we  ov er heard one  old wom an  w hi sp erto he r  cronies ,“_P ec cat o, no n  sonoCrist iane !_ ”a ndthe lit t le c hild re n,  cli ngi ng  to
t heir gra ndams'skirts, p eer e d at  u sinquisi tively with t he ir gloriou sbla ck eye s gleaming  through the tangled go l den hai r w hichhung  about
th emlike a  ma n e.

Th e chur ch wa sbui l t  in t h e  s hap eof a Latin c ros s, wi th  nopretens ions
to architectu r almerit or high  an tiqu i t y;  th e  w a lls  w h ite w a shed, and
withno ornamen ts be yond the c r uci fi xes, ca ndlesti cks,a nd vase s of
arti ficial fl ow ersu p onthe princi pal alta r at theu ppere nd , and  in 
the t wo  sm all c hapels orreces ses at  e itherside,  i n whichalso mass
could be cele brated . Two  co nfessiona ls, a f ew benche s, a nd a numbe r o f
r ush-b ott o med c hair s  p ile d  in a  cor n er, compl e te d t h e  f ittings-up, i f 
we  exce ptt hree l arge  pictures, of whi c h one was susp ende d ove r e a ch
a lt ar; they wereinoi l s , eviden tl y originals , and of  n o  mode rn dat e,
tho ugh fro m av ery in feri or
 the_house,
which was_as rude and comfortless_as most_of_its description,_the
ground-floor_being shared between_the silkworms and_cows, and the upper
story,_inhabited by the_family,_being attainable only by a steep outer
staircase. At the threshold we found some more_venerable_dames, by_whom
we_were_ushered—the padrone amongst the rest—to_pay our respects to
the young_mother, who_lay smiling in her bed, the tiny stranger_by_her
side, all swathed_and swaddled, and her gossips talking and chattering
around her,_or bustling to and from the_kitchen, which adjoined_her
room,_in_utter violation of every_orthodox rule of quiet and good
nursing._From thence, as soon as we_were considered sufficiently
rested, we were marshalled for_the christening—a little girl of twelve
years_old, the contadino's sister, carrying_the baby,_and the rest all
following in_order. It was_then, as_we went along,_that the terrible
fact of our being_heretics began to_transpire, and I was amused at_the
pitying_interest with which_we_were_surveyed: on_entering the village
church,_in_particular, when_it_was remarked we took no holy_water,_nor
crossed ourselves, we overheard one old woman_whisper to her cronies,
“_Peccato,_non_sono Cristiane!_” and the_little children, clinging to
their grandams'_skirts, peered at us inquisitively with_their glorious
black_eyes gleaming_through the tangled golden hair which hung about
them like a mane.

The_church was built in the shape_of a Latin cross,_with no_pretensions
to_architectural merit or_high_antiquity; the_walls whitewashed, and
with no ornaments beyond the_crucifixes, candlesticks,_and vases of
artificial flowers upon the_principal altar at the_upper_end, and in
the two small chapels_or recesses at either side, in_which also mass
could be celebrated._Two_confessionals,_a few benches, and a_number of
rush-bottomed chairs piled in a_corner, completed the_fittings-up, if
we except three large pictures, of_which_one was suspended over each
altar; they_were_in oils, evidently originals, and of_no_modern_date,
though from a very inferior