
precincts of the caffè.




CHAPTER VI.

   Prejudice against fires—General dilapidation of
     dwelling-houses—A lady's _valet de chambre_—Kindness
     towards servants—Freedom of intercourse with their
     masters—Devotedness of Italians to the sick—Horror of
     death—Funerals—Mourning.


While thus curious about the middle ranks, it must not be forgotten
that in the upper there was quite sufficient difference from all one's
preconceived ideas of elegance or comfort to render their domestic
habits interesting. One of the strangest things that struck me as
the winter came on, was the prejudice prevailing against the use of
fireplaces, or, indeed, against any appliances to mitigate the severity
of the weather. Horace Walpole, in his letters, says, very justly, that
the Italians never yet seem to have found out how cold their climate
is; and this remark, made a hundred years ago, is still perfectly
applicable—at least as regards the people of Ancona.

The dread of sitting near a fire, and the contempt for carpets
expressed by the old inhabitants, are perfectly ludicrous: they mourn
over the effeminacy of the rising generation, who, so far as they are
permitted, gladly avail themselves of these pernicious indulgences.
A gentleman one night came freezing into our drawing-room, and as
he stood complacently before the fire, made us laugh at the account
of a visit he had just been paying to the Count M——, the admiral of
the port—a sinecure office, it is needless to remark. He found him in
bed with a slight attack of gout, and his wife and daughter-in-law,
with several visitors, were sitting round him, making _la società_:
the gentlemen in their hats and cloaks, and the ladies in shawls,
handkerchiefs tied over their heads, and the never-absent _scaldino_,
filled with live embers, in their hands. Our friend was pressed by the
admiral to follow the general example, and cloak and cover himself. He
declined at first, being of a very ceremonious disposition; but soon,
he admitted, his scru
precincts of the caffè. 




 CHAPTER VI. 

    Prejudice against fires — General dilapidation of 
      dwelling - house — A dame's _ valet de chambre_—Kindness 
      towards servants — Freedom of sexual intercourse with their 
      masters — devotion of Italians to the sick — Horror of 
      end — Funerals — Mourning. 


 While thus curious about the middle rank, it must not be forgotten 
 that in the upper there was quite sufficient remainder from all one's 
 preconceived ideas of elegance or comfort to try their domestic 
 habits interesting. One of the strangest things that struck me as 
 the winter came on, was the bias prevailing against the use of 
 fireplaces, or, indeed, against any appliance to mitigate the severity 
 of the weather. Horace Walpole, in his letter, says, very rightly, that 
 the Italians never yet appear to have found out how cold their climate 
 is; and this remark, made a hundred years ago, is however perfectly 
 applicable — at least as regards the people of Ancona. 

 The dread of sitting near a fire, and the contempt for carpets 
 expressed by the old inhabitants, are perfectly ludicrous: they mourn 
 over the effeminacy of the rising generation, who, so far as they are 
 permitted, gladly avail themselves of these pernicious indulgence. 
 A gentleman one night come freeze into our drawing - room, and as 
 he stood complacently before the ardor, made us laugh at the history 
 of a visit he had just been pay to the Count M — —, the admiral of 
 the port — a sinecure office, it is needless to remark. He found him in 
 bed with a slight attack of gout, and his wife and daughter - in - law, 
 with several visitors, were sit attack him, making _ la società _: 
 the gentlemen in their hats and cloaks, and the ladies in shawl, 
 handkerchiefs tied over their heads, and the never - absent _ scaldino _, 
 filled with live embers, in their hands. Our friend was iron by the 
 admiral to follow the cosmopolitan example, and cloak and cover himself. He 
 declined at first, being of a very ceremonious disposal; but soon, 
 he admitted, his scru

prefincts of the caffè.




CHAPTEV VI.

   Prejudice againsv fires—Feneral ailapidation of
     dwelling-iousws—A lqdy's _valet de chambre_—Kkndness
     towares strvants—Freedom of intercomxse wjbh thzic
     masters—Deyotedness ox Italians to dhd dick—Horror of
     death—Funerals—Mourging.


Whike thus curious wbouu tre mjddle ranks, it must not be forgottsn
that pn the upper therr was quite sufficient difverejce from all one's
pgeconceived ideww of elegancd or comfogc to render their domestic
habits interestivg. Onz of the sttcbgedj things thav strubk me as
the wlmter cdme on, eas the prejudlce pcevauling against the use of
fireplaces, or, igdeed, agahnat any appliances ti mithgata thd sexerjtb
of the wfatier. Horace Salpole, in yis letters, says, vety hustly, that
ths Italyags never yet seem to have found out how comd their climate
is; and rhis remark, made a hujdred yeaws ago, is still perfectly
applicable—at least as recards ghe pcopld ov Ancona.

The dread of sitting near a fire, and ege cpntempt for cavpets
expressed by yhf pjd inhabitantr, are 'srrectly ludicrous: tjey moutn
over the effeiinavy of the rising generation, who, so far cs rhey are
permitted, yladly avail thekselvrs of these pernicious nndulgsnces.
A gentpeman one vight came freezkng itto our drawing-room, and as
re stood romplccently cefote the sire, made ks lamch at the account
ov a vnsit ve had jush been paying to the Count M——, thx admiral of
tne pogt—a sinecbre ofnice, it is needjess to remark. He fouud him in
bed witg a slijht attack os gout, and hiv wife and danghter-in-lww,
wirh swveral xksitors, were sotting rolnb him, makung _la società_:
the gcntleosn in their hatw abd cloaks, and tne uadyed mn shwfls,
handkerchhefs tidc ovef their heabs, and the never-absent _scandink_,
filled with live rmners, in tyeir hanqs. Our friend was pressed by tht
admirel to hollow thg general example, and cloak and cover hilsejf. He
declineq at first, being of a very ceremonious disposition; but woon,
he admitted, hiw scru
precincts of the caffè. CHAPTER VI. Prejudice dilapidation dwelling-houses—A lady's de chambre_—Kindness towards masters—Devotedness Italians to the of death—Funerals—Mourning. While curious about the middle ranks, it not be forgotten that in the upper there was quite sufficient difference from one's preconceived ideas of elegance or comfort to render their domestic habits interesting. of strangest that me as the winter came on, was the prejudice prevailing against the use of fireplaces, or, against any appliances to mitigate the severity of weather. Horace Walpole, in letters, says, very justly, that Italians yet seem have out cold their climate and this remark, made a hundred years ago, is still perfectly applicable—at least as regards the people Ancona. The sitting near fire, the for carpets expressed old inhabitants, are perfectly ludicrous: they effeminacy of the rising generation, who, so far they are gladly avail themselves of these pernicious A gentleman one night came freezing into our and as he stood complacently before the fire, made us laugh at the account of he had just been to the Count the of port—a office, it needless to remark. He found him in bed with a slight of gout, and his wife and daughter-in-law, with several visitors, round making _la società_: gentlemen in their hats cloaks, the ladies in shawls, over heads, _scaldino_, with embers, in their hands. friend was pressed by the to follow the general himself. He declined at first, being of a ceremonious disposition; but soon, he admitted, his

precincts of the caffè.




CHAPTEr VI.

   PrejudiCe agaInsT fiReS—GenEral Dilapidation of
     DWellIng-houses—A lady's _valet de ChambRe_—kIndnESs
     TowarDs servaNTs—fREedOm Of IntErCOuRse wiTh tHeir
     masTers—DevoteDneSs Of Italians to THe Sick—Horror Of
     dEath—Funerals—mouRning.


WHiLe tHUs curIouS abouT the miDDle ranKs, it must nOt BE forgoTTen
that IN ThE uppEr there was quite suFFiCIent difference From alL oNE's
PREcoNceIved ideas oF eLeganCE or comfORt TO REndER their domestiC
habits inteREstIng. One Of The STrangeSt thiNgS ThaT struck me as
The wInter came On, was tHE prejudICe prevaIling aGaiNst The uSE oF
fIrePlACes, OR, iNdeED, agAinst any ApPlIanceS to mITIGAte tHe sEverIty
of The weather. HorAce walpOLe, iN his lEtterS, sayS, vEry juStly, thAt
the itAlians never yet sEem tO have founD ouT hOw cOlD theiR ClimatE
is; And This remArk, made A HunDrED YEaRs ago, is still perfecTlY
APpLicable—aT least AS rEgARds the peOpLe oF AncONA.

The dRead OF sItting neAr a firE, AnD tHe conteMpT for caRpEts
ExpResseD By thE old inHabitantS, are pERfectly ludicroUS: they mourn
oveR ThE EFfEMinaCy oF the rising gEnerATion, Who, sO FaR as THey arE
permItTEd, GLadly avail themselveS oF these PerniCious indulgenCes.
A gentleMAN One night Came FReEZing into our draWing-rOom, and as
he STood compLacenTly beforE the fire, mADE us laugh At tHe aCcoUnt
OF A vIsit he had just BEEn paYiNg to the couNt M——, the aDmiRal Of
tHe pOrT—a sinecurE office, iT iS nEeDlEss To remARk. He founD hIm iN
bEd wIth a sLIght atTack oF gouT, aNd HIs wIfe and dAUgHTEr-in-LaW,
wIth sEveRaL visiTors, WEre Sitting Round him, mAkiNG _la sOcIeTà_:
the geNtlemen in theiR hAts and cloaKs, And The ladIES in shawlS,
handkerchiefs tied over tHEir headS, anD the nEver-Absent _scaLdiNo_,
fillEd wITh live Embers, In theIr HanDS. our frIENd Was PrEssed by the
ADMirAl to fOlLow tHe generAl example, and cloak aND coVer himself. He
dEclIned AT FiRst, BEiNG of A vERy cEREmonious disposiTion; but sooN,
hE AdMitted, his sCRu

precincts of the caffè.



CHAPTER  VI.
  Pr ej udic e ag ainst fires—Ge n eral  dilapidation of
    dwell in g -hou s es —A la dy's _v a le t dech am bre _— K in dness 
    towa rds servan ts— Fr eedom of int e rc ourse with  th eir
     mas ter s—Devo te dne s s ofIta lians  to th e  sick— Horror of 
   dea t h—Funer a l s— Mour ning.


While thu s  c u rious about th e midd le ra n k s,itmust not b eforgo t ten
tha t  i n t heu pper there wa s quite suf f ici ent di ff ere n ce fro m all  o n e's 
preconceiv ed i deas of e leganc e  or com f ort torender  th eir  dom e st ic 
ha bi t s i n te res t ing . One of  t he  stra nges t t h ings  th at s truck  me as
the wi nte r ca m e o n, wa s the  pre ju diceprevai lingag ainst the use o f
fi replaces,  or ,ind ee d, ag a inst a nyapp liances  to mit i gat et h e  s everity
of the wea th e r .Horace W alpole ,  i nh is lette rs , s ays, v ery j ustl y ,that
the  Itali a ns  n ever ye tseem t ohav e f oundo ut h ow col d theirclima t e
is; and this remark, madea  h u n dr e d ye ars  ago, is st illp erfe ctly ap pli c able— at le as t  a s  regards the people  o f Anco na.
The dread ofsitting ne a r a fire,andt he contempt for c arpet s
expresse d  by theold i nhabitan ts, are p e r fectly l udi cro us:  th e y  m ourn
over the e ffem in acy ofthe  rising  ge ner ati on,  w ho, so fa r as the yar epe rmi tted, gladly a va ilth ems elves of the se pe rnic io us ind ulgence s .A gent le ma n on e n ig ht ca me f r eez ing int o our dra win g -roo m,  a nd as
h e stood compl ac ently befo re  th e fire , made uslaugh at the account
of a visit  he  hadjust  been pay ing  to th e C o unt M— —, the  admi ra l o f the p o r t— a s in ecure offi c e , i t isne edle ss to r emark. He found hi m  in 
bed with a s lig ht a t t ac k o f  g o ut,  a n d h i s  wife and daugh ter-in-law ,w it h severalv isi to rs, wer e sitti ng ro u nd him,  making _ la societ à_ :
th e gen tlemen intheir ha ts and cl o aks,a nd  thelad ies in  s haw ls,
h andker c hie fs ti ed ove rtheirheads ,and thenever-absent _scaldino_ ,
fill ed wi thlive embe rs, intheir han ds.Our friend  wa s p resse d b y  theadmi r al  to follo w th e  generale xa mpl e ,  a nd cloak an d c ove r him sel f . He
d ecli ned at first, bei n g of a very ce remo n i ous  di s posi ti on; but soon,head m i tted, hi sscru

precincts of_the caffè.




CHAPTER_VI.

   Prejudice_against fires—General_dilapidation_of
 __  dwelling-houses—A_lady's _valet de_chambre_—Kindness
   _ towards servants—Freedom_of_intercourse with their
     masters—Devotedness of Italians to the sick—Horror of
__ __death—Funerals—Mourning.


While_thus curious about the middle_ranks, it must not be_forgotten
that in_the upper there was quite sufficient difference from_all_one's
preconceived ideas of_elegance or comfort to render their domestic
habits interesting. One_of the strangest things that struck_me as
the winter_came_on,_was the prejudice prevailing_against the use of
fireplaces, or, indeed,_against any appliances to mitigate the_severity
of the weather. Horace Walpole, in his_letters, says, very justly, that
the Italians_never yet seem to have_found out_how cold their climate
is; and_this remark, made_a hundred_years ago, is_still perfectly
applicable—at least as regards the_people of Ancona.

The_dread of sitting near a fire,_and_the contempt for_carpets
expressed_by_the old_inhabitants, are perfectly_ludicrous:_they mourn
over_the_effeminacy of the rising generation, who,_so_far as they are
permitted, gladly avail themselves_of these pernicious indulgences.
A_gentleman_one night came freezing_into our drawing-room, and as
he_stood complacently before the fire, made_us laugh_at the_account
of a visit he had just been paying to the Count_M——, the admiral of
the port—a sinecure_office, it is needless_to remark._He_found him in
bed_with_a slight_attack of gout, and his wife and_daughter-in-law,
with several_visitors, were sitting round him, making__la società_:
the gentlemen in_their_hats and cloaks, and the ladies_in shawls,
handkerchiefs tied over their heads,_and the never-absent _scaldino_,
filled with_live_embers,_in their hands. Our friend_was pressed by the
admiral to follow_the general example,_and cloak and cover himself. He
declined at_first,_being of a very ceremonious disposition;_but_soon,
he admitted, his scru