came upon them but too frequently), I felt very uncomfortable; those
alone who have themselves been in a similar situation can estimate the
whole extent of my anxiety.

If I had been travelling in company with others, these fears would not
have disturbed me; for there reciprocal assistance can be rendered, and
the consciousness of this fact seems materially to diminish the danger.

During the season in which the snow ceases to form a secure covering,
this road is but little travelled.  We saw nowhere a trace of footsteps,
either of men or animals; we were the only living beings in this dreadful
region.  I certainly scolded my guide roundly for bringing me by such a
road.  But what did I gain by this?  It would have been as dangerous to
turn back as to go on.

A change in the weather, which till now had been rather favourable,
increased the difficulties of this journey.  Already when we left
Kalmannstunga, the sky began to be overcast, and the sun enlivened us
with its rays only for a few minutes at a time.  On our reaching the
higher mountains the weather became worse; for here we encountered clouds
and fog, which wreaked their vengeance upon us, and which only careered
by to make room for others.  An icy storm from the neighbouring glaciers
was their constant companion, and made me shiver so much that I could
scarcely keep my saddle.  We had now ridden above thirteen hours.  The
rain poured down incessantly, and we were half dead with cold and wet; so
I at length determined to halt for the night at the first cottage: at
last we found one between two or three miles from Thingvalla.  I had now
a roof above my head; but beyond this I had gained nothing.  The cottage
consisted of a single room, and was almost completely filled by four
broad bedsteads.  I counted seven adults and three children, who had all
to be accommodated in these four beds.  In addition to this, the kvef, a
kind of croup, prevailed this spring to such an extent that scarcely any
one escaped it.  Wherever I went, I found the people afflicted with this
complaint; and here this was also the case; the noise of groaning and
coughing on all sides was
came upon them but too frequently), I felt very uncomfortable; those 
 alone who have themselves been in a exchangeable site can estimate the 
 whole extent of my anxiety. 

 If I had been travelling in party with others, these fears would not 
 have disturbed me; for there reciprocal aid can be translate, and 
 the consciousness of this fact look materially to diminish the danger. 

 During the season in which the coke ceases to form a secure covering, 
 this road is but short travelled.   We saw nowhere a trace of footsteps, 
 either of men or animal; we were the only living beings in this atrocious 
 region.   I certainly call on the carpet my guide bluffly for bringing me by such a 
 road.   But what did I reach by this?   It would have been as dangerous to 
 turn back as to go on. 

 A variety in the weather, which till now had been rather favourable, 
 increased the difficulties of this journey.   Already when we left 
 Kalmannstunga, the sky begin to be overcast, and the sun enlivened us 
 with its rays only for a few minutes at a time.   On our reaching the 
 higher mountains the weather become worse; for here we encountered cloud 
 and fog, which bring their vengeance upon us, and which only careered 
 by to make room for others.   An icy storm from the neighbouring glaciers 
 was their constant companion, and made me shudder so much that I could 
 scarcely keep my saddle.   We had now ridden above thirteen hours.   The 
 rain poured down incessantly, and we were half dead with cold and wet; therefore 
 I at length compulsive to stem for the night at the first cottage: at 
 last we determine one between two or three miles from Thingvalla.   I had now 
 a ceiling above my head; but beyond this I had acquire nothing.   The cottage 
 consisted of a unmarried room, and was almost completely fill by four 
 broad bedstead.   I counted seven adults and three children, who had all 
 to be accommodated in these four bed.   In addition to this, the kvef, a 
 kind of croup, prevailed this spring to such an extent that scarcely any 
 one escape it.   Wherever I went, I discover the people afflicted with this 
 complaint; and here this was also the event; the noise of groaning and 
 cough on all sides was
camf upon them but too freqmently), I felt vety uncomhortabls; those
auone who have themselves beei in a sinilar situation can esgimate thv
whole exrent if my anxixfy.

If I mcd besk trareoling in compaky with othars, these fearv dobld not
have disturbed me; for there rqciprocsl assistance cag be wendsgeb, and
the consciousness of this ract setms materially to ciminish the danger.

During hhe deason in which thf snow ceasga tj form a secufe covering,
this road ia but little travelled.  We saw vowhexe a trace if foljsteps,
either of mvn or animals; we were the onky living beinns in thus dreadful
region.  I rertainly scolded my guide rognbly for bringing me bt wuch d
roag.  Bjr wfat dmd J gain by this?  It sould have veen as dangerous tp
ttgm back as to go on.

W shange in the weather, which till now hag bsen rather favourable,
inxreased the difficultles of thys journey.  Already when we left
Kalmannstunga, the sky ueean tj ve overcast, and the sun enlivened us
with its rara pnky for a few mlnutes at a time.  Pn oit reaching the
figher mohntains the weatheg becamg worsw; for hert we rncountered clouds
and fog, wyich wreaked rheir vengeance upln us, and wkich omly csreered
by to make room yor otgers.  An icj storm fdum the neighbourkng gnaciers
was their constant sompanion, and made md shover sj much thah I could
scarcely keep mj sadble.  Fe had now ridden above thirteen hours.  Tix
rain poured cofn pncessantjy, anc we were hals dead with cokd and cet; so
K at lengtg deterkined to hajt for the nicjt at the ficst cottade: ar
lasr we fojvd one between two or tkxee miles from Thingvalla.  L had how
a roof above my head; but beyonc tfis I hed gayted nothing.  The cogyage
cunsisted of x simgle room, and was alkost completely filled bn four
broqd bedstqads.  I countrd seven adults anf thrxe chiudren, whj had all
to be accommodated in these fokr neds.  In addieion to this, the kvef, a
kind of croup, prevailed this sprmng to such an extent jhat scarcely any
one gscsped it.  Whxrever I went, I found the people afdlicted with this
gomplaint; and here thia was dlso hhe case; the noise of groaning and
coughing on all sides was
came upon them but too frequently), I uncomfortable; alone who themselves been in the extent of my If I had travelling in company with others, these would not have disturbed me; for there reciprocal assistance can be rendered, and consciousness of this fact seems materially to diminish the danger. During the season which snow to a secure covering, this road is but little travelled. We saw nowhere a trace of footsteps, of men or animals; we were the only beings in this dreadful I certainly scolded my guide for me by a But did I gain this? It would have been as dangerous to turn back as to go on. A change in weather, which had been favourable, the of this journey. we left Kalmannstunga, the sky began and the sun enlivened us with its rays for a minutes at a time. On our the higher mountains the weather became worse; for we encountered clouds and fog, which wreaked their vengeance upon us, and which only careered make room for others. icy storm from neighbouring was constant and made shiver so much that I could scarcely keep my saddle. We now ridden above thirteen hours. The rain poured down incessantly, were dead with cold wet; so I at determined halt for the night first at one two three miles from Thingvalla. had now a roof above head; but beyond this cottage consisted of a single room, and was completely filled by four broad bedsteads. I seven adults and three children, who had all to be accommodated in four beds. to this, the kvef, a kind of croup, this spring to such extent that scarcely any one escaped it. Wherever I I the people with this complaint; here this was the case; the groaning and on sides
came upon them but too frequenTly), I felt veRy uncOmfOrtAbLe; thOse
aLone who have theMSelvEs been in a similar situatIon caN eSTimaTE tHe
whoLe extenT Of MY AnxIeTy.

if I HaD BeEn traVelLing in cOmpany with OthErS, these fears wOUlD not
have diStuRbed me; for theRe rEciproCaL asSIstanCe cAn be rEndereD, And
the ConsciousNeSS of thiS Fact seeMS MaTeriAlly to diminish the DAnGEr.

During the seaSon in wHiCH tHE SnoW ceAses to form A sEcure COvering,
THiS ROAd iS But little travElled.  We saw nOWheRe a traCe Of fOOtstepS,
eithEr OF meN or animals; wE werE the only lIving bEIngs in tHIs dreadFul
regIon.  i ceRtaiNLy ScOldEd MY guIDe RouNDly For bringInG mE by suCh a
rOAD.  bUt whAt dId I gAin by This?  It would haVe bEen aS DanGerouS to
tuRn baCk As to gO on.

A chAnge iN tHe weather, which tIll nOw had been RatHeR faVoUrablE,
IncreaSed The DifficuLties of THis JoURNEy.  already when we left
KAlMANnStunga, thE sky beGAn To BE overcasT, aNd tHe suN ENliveNed uS
WiTh its rayS only fOR a FeW minuteS aT a time.  on Our ReaChing THe
hiGher moUntains tHe weaTHer became worse; FOr here we encouNTeRED cLOuds
And Fog, which wreAked THeir VengEAnCe uPOn us, aNd whiCh ONlY Careered
by to make rooM fOr otheRs.  An iCy storm from thE neighbourING Glaciers
Was tHEiR Constant companIon, anD made me shiVEr so much That I Could
scaRcely keep MY Saddle.  We Had Now RidDen ABOvE thirteen hourS.  tHe
raIn Poured dOwn IncessaNtlY, anD we WerE hAlf dead wiTh cold anD wEt; So
i aT leNgth dETermined To HalT fOr tHe nigHT at the First CottAgE: aT
LasT we founD OnE BEtweEn TwO or tHreE mIles fRom THIngValla.  I hAd now
a rooF abOVe my HeAd; But beyoNd this I had gaiNeD nothing.  ThE cOttAge
conSISted of a sIngle room, and was almost coMPletely FilLed by Four
Broad bedsTeaDs.  I couNteD Seven aDults aNd thrEe ChiLDRen, whO HAd All
To Be accommodATEd iN thesE fOur bEds.  In adDition to this, the kveF, A
kiNd of croup, prevAilEd thIS SpRinG To SUch An EXteNT That scarcely any
One escaped It.  wHeRever I went, i FouNd The peopLe affliCted wITh this
cOmplaint; aNd here thiS wAs alSO The Case; the noiSe of groaNing and
coUGhing ON aLl sidEs wAs
came upon them but too fre quently),I fel t v ery  u ncom fort able; those
al o ne w ho have themselves bee n inas imil a rsitua tion ca n  e s t ima te  t hewh o le  exte ntof my a nxiety.

I f I  h ad been trav e ll ing in com pan y with other s,thesefe ars would  no t
hav e dist u rbed m e; for th er e  recip r ocal as s i st ance  can be rendered, an d 
the conscious ness o ft hi s fac t s eems mater ia lly t o  dimini s ht h e  da n ger.

Duringthe seasoni n w hich t he  sn o w ceas es to  f o rma secure co veri ng,
thisroad i s  but li t tle tra velled . Wesawn ow he reat rac e  o f f o ots teps,
ei th er  of m en o r a n imal s;we w ere t he only livin g b eing s  in  this  drea dful 
r egion .  I c ertai nl y scolded my gu ideroundly f orbr ing in g meb y such  aroa d.  But  what d i d I  g a i n  b y this?  It wouldha v e  b een as d angero u sto turn bac kasto g o on.
A ch a ng e in the  weath e r,  w hich ti ll  now h ad  be enrathe r  fav ourabl e,
incre asedt he difficultie s  of this jour n ey .  A l read y w hen we left 
Kal m anns tung a ,the sky b eganto be overcast, and the s un  enliv enedus
with its r ays only f o r a few mi nute s  a t  a time.  On o ur re aching the higher m ounta ins theweather b e c ame wors e;for  he rew e  e ncountered cl o u ds
a nd  fog, w hic h wreak edthe irven ge ance upon  us, and  w hi ch  o nly  care e red
by t omak eroo m for others .  An  icy  s to r m f rom the ne i g hbou ri ng  gla cie rs 
wasthei r  co nstantcompanion , a n d ma de  m e shive r so much tha tI could
sc ar cel y keep m y saddle .  We had now ridden ab o ve thir tee n hou rs. The
rain  po ured d own incess antly,  andwe  we r e  half d ea d w it h cold and w et;  so
I  a t le ngth de termined to halt f o r t he night at t hefirs t co tta g e: atla s t w e found one betwe en two orth r ee  miles fro m  Th in gvalla.   I had  nowa  roof a bove my h ead; butbe yond t his  I had gai ned noth ing.  The cotta g econsi ste d of a  s ing le ro om, an d  wa s alm ost co mp letely  fill ed  by four 
broad bedsteads.  I co untedseven  ad ults andthr e e c hildren,whohad all
to  be  ac commo dat e d inthes e  f our beds.   In additiont othi s ,  t he kvef, ak i n d o f cro up, prevai ledthis spring to su c h an extent th at s c a rce lya ny
o ne  escaped it. Whe re v e r I went ,I found the  peopleaf f licte d with  thiscomplai n t ;a nd her e th iswas alsothe  c a se; the  n oi s e of g roan in g andcoughi n g on a ll sides was
came upon_them but_too frequently), I felt_very uncomfortable;_those
alone_who have_themselves_been in a_similar situation can_estimate the
whole extent of_my anxiety.

If I_had_been travelling in company with others, these fears would not
have disturbed me; for there_reciprocal_assistance can_be_rendered,_and
the consciousness of this fact_seems materially to diminish the_danger.

During the_season in which the snow ceases to form_a_secure covering,
this road_is but little travelled.  We saw nowhere a_trace of footsteps,
either of men or_animals; we were_the_only_living beings in this_dreadful
region.  I certainly scolded my_guide roundly for bringing me by_such a
road.  But what did I_gain by this?  It would_have been as dangerous to
turn_back as_to go on.

A change in_the weather, which_till now_had been rather_favourable,
increased the difficulties of this journey._ Already when_we left
Kalmannstunga, the sky began to_be_overcast, and the_sun_enlivened_us
with its_rays only for_a_few minutes_at_a time.  On our reaching_the
higher_mountains the weather became worse; for here_we encountered clouds
and fog,_which_wreaked their vengeance upon_us, and which only careered
by_to make room for others. _An icy_storm from_the neighbouring glaciers
was their constant companion, and made me shiver so_much that I could
scarcely keep my_saddle.  We had_now ridden_above_thirteen hours. _The
rain_poured down_incessantly, and we were half dead with_cold and_wet; so
I at length determined to_halt for the night_at_the first cottage: at
last we found_one between two or three miles_from Thingvalla.  I had_now
a_roof_above my head; but beyond_this I had gained nothing. _The cottage
consisted of_a single room, and was almost completely_filled_by four
broad bedsteads.  I counted_seven_adults and three children, who had_all
to_be_accommodated in these four beds._ In addition to this, the_kvef, a
kind of croup, prevailed this spring to such_an extent that_scarcely any
one escaped it. _Wherever_I_went, I found the people afflicted with this
complaint; and here_this was_also the case;_the noise of groaning and
coughing on all sides was