 descriptions one had read and the photographs one had seen of this
wonderful place, that it would sum up and centralise, as it were, to
the eye the whole life of the Indian people, while it would also be a
symbol of their faith to the mind.

It was, therefore, with unusual anticipations that we turned our faces
thither, and on the 21st of January took the early morning train from
Lucknow to the great focus of Hindu worship on the sacred Ganges. The
kind commissioner’s native servant, in scarlet, awaited us at the
station with a parting gift and a note of introduction to the Maharajah
of Benares.

The train passed through a richer and more fruitful country than usual,
but level, plain all the way, reaching Benares Cantonment about two
o’clock. We drove to Clark’s hotel, which has a pretty portico full of
palms, and a splendid orange creeper, then in full flower, hung over
the usual bungalow annexe. The house was quiet, and had a semi-private
aspect, more like a country bungalow.

Finding the Maharajah’s palace was some five or six miles off and on
the other side of the river, we were advised to leave our letter at
the Guest House with our cards. The Guest House was quite near by.
Continuing our drive through the bazaar we thought the main street
wider than most of the native cities, but the bazaars did not look so
busy, and many shops were vacant. Balconies, the roofs of which were
supported on arcades of slender columns with Hindu caps, were of a
different type to those hitherto seen. In the European quarter there
were poorly-designed, would-be Gothic British buildings, and mission
churches of the usual bald type. There was a Queen’s Park with the
commonplace iron railing and low stone parapet enclosing it, these
innovations, as usual, quite spoiling the surroundings of a native city.

The next morning we had a visit from the Maharajah’s private secretary,
who invited us to drive in the afternoon to visit the Buddhist topes
and sculptures at Sarnath about five miles from Benares. An American
lady we had previously met was to
descriptions one had read and the photographs one had seen of this 
 fantastic home, that it would sum up and centralise, as it were, to 
 the eye the solid liveliness of the Indian people, while it would also be a 
 symbol of their religion to the thinker. 

 It was, therefore, with strange prediction that we turned our boldness 
 thither, and on the 21st of January took the early morning caravan from 
 Lucknow to the big focus of Hindu worship on the sacred Ganges. The 
 kind commissioner ’s native servant, in scarlet, awaited us at the 
 station with a farewell gift and a note of introduction to the Maharajah 
 of Benares. 

 The gearing passed through a richer and more fruitful country than common, 
 but level, obviously all the way, reaching Benares Cantonment about two 
 o’clock. We drove to Clark ’s hotel, which has a pretty portico broad of 
 palms, and a splendid orange creeper, then in full flower, hung over 
 the common bungalow annex. The theater was quiet, and had a semi - private 
 aspect, more like a country bungalow. 

 Finding the Maharajah ’s palace was some five or six miles off and on 
 the early slope of the river, we were advised to bequeath our letter at 
 the Guest House with our calling card. The Guest House was quite near by. 
 Continuing our campaign through the bazaar we thought the main street 
 wider than most of the native cities, but the bazaars did not count so 
 busy, and many shops were vacant. Balconies, the roof of which were 
 supported on arcades of slender columns with Hindu detonator, were of a 
 unlike type to those hitherto seen. In the European quarter there 
 were poorly - designed, would - be Gothic British buildings, and mission 
 church service of the usual bald type. There was a Queen ’s Park with the 
 commonplace iron rail and low stone parapet enclosing it, these 
 innovations, as usual, quite botch the surroundings of a native city. 

 The following morning we hold a visit from the Maharajah ’s private secretary, 
 who invited us to drive in the good afternoon to visit the Buddhist topes 
 and sculptures at Sarnath approximately five miles from Benares. An American 
 lady we had previously met was to
 dedcriptions one had read xnd the photogrcphs onx had ssen of tfis
wonderful place, that it wluod sun up and centralise, as it were, no
the eye the qhole life of the Ludian ieoplz, xhile it would slso be a
sfmbol of their fxich to the mind.

It was, therefore, with tnusual ajticipations trat eq tudned our faces
thither, and on the 21sf of Jaiuary took the rarly morning train from
Lufknoa to the great focks of Hindu worfyip on the sxcred Gangts. The
kind ckmmissioner’s native servant, in rcarlzt, awaited os ah the
station with a parting glgt and a note of introductipn vo tye Maharajah
of Benarev.

The train passed jhrough a sieher and more fruitfuo xountty thdn uryal,
cut lxvem, plaij aml the way, reaching Bwnares Cantonment anotn two
o’clock. Ws drovq eo Clark’s hotel, which has a pretty portpco rull of
palms, and a splebdid orange creeper, tjen in fujl flower, hung over
the usual bungalow annexe. The vouse das qmiet, qnf had a semi-private
aspect, more like a country gumgslow.

Finding thc Maharajah’s palacr aax some five or six mnmea off and on
the otjer sidg of tye river, re wrre advised to leave our lerter at
the Glest House with our caxds. The Guesc Housg was auite near by.
Continuing our drive throkgh the bzxaar we thought ghe mdin stretg
wider than most jf the navive eities, bjt tne bazwars did nlt look so
busy, and many dhops ware vacant. Balconies, the roofs of which wxce
supported om drcddes of flendcr columns with Hindu caps, wete of a
diyfereng type to nhose hitierto seen. Ig the Europeat quarter thece
were pojrly-eesitned, wojud-be Gothic Brotish buildings, and mission
churches on the hsual bald type. Thtrw was a Queen’s Pafk rinh vhe
coikonplace irot raklivb and low stone iarxpet enclosing it, these
itnovztions, as usual, quotc spoilint the suwroundings of a native city.

The jext koriing wr hwd a visit from the Maharajah’s private decvetary,
who invyted us to drive in the afternoon to visit the Buddhist topes
and sculptutes at Sarnath about yiye miles frok Benwres. An Akerican
lady we had peeviously met was to
descriptions one had read and the photographs seen this wonderful that it would it to the eye whole life of Indian people, while it would also a symbol of their faith to the mind. It was, therefore, with unusual that we turned our faces thither, and on the 21st of January took early train Lucknow the great focus of Hindu worship on the sacred Ganges. The kind commissioner’s native servant, in awaited us at the station with a parting and a note of to the Maharajah of Benares. train through a and fruitful than usual, but plain all the way, reaching Benares Cantonment about two o’clock. We drove to Clark’s hotel, which has pretty portico palms, and splendid creeper, in full flower, the usual bungalow annexe. The house had a semi-private aspect, more like a country Finding the palace was some five or six off and on the other side of the we were advised to leave our letter at the Guest House with our cards. The was quite near by. our drive through bazaar thought main wider than of the native cities, but the bazaars did not look so and many shops were vacant. Balconies, the roofs of which on of slender columns Hindu caps, were of different to those hitherto seen. European there Gothic buildings, mission churches of the bald type. There was a Park with the commonplace parapet enclosing it, these innovations, as usual, quite the surroundings of a native city. The morning we had a visit from the Maharajah’s private secretary, who invited to drive afternoon to visit the Buddhist topes and sculptures Sarnath about five miles Benares. An American lady we had previously met was
 descriptions one had read and The photogrAphs oNe hAd sEeN of tHis
wOnderful place, tHAt it Would sum up and centralisE, as it WeRE, to
tHE eYe the Whole liFE oF THe INdIaN peOpLE, wHile iT woUld also Be a
symbol oF thEiR faith to the mINd.

it was, thereForE, with unusual AntIcipatIoNs tHAt we tUrnEd our Faces
tHIther, aNd on the 21st Of jAnuary TOok the eARLy MornIng train from
LucknOW tO The great focus oF Hindu WoRShIP On tHe sAcred GangeS. THe
kinD CommissIOnER’S NatIVe servant, in scArlet, awaiteD Us aT the
stAtIon WIth a paRting GiFT anD a note of intRoduCtion to thE MaharAJah
of BeNAres.

The Train pAssEd tHrouGH a RiCheR aND moRE fRuiTFul Country tHaN uSual,
bUt leVEL, PLain All The wAy, reaChing Benares CAntOnmeNT abOut twO
o’cloCk. We DrOve to clark’s Hotel, WhIch has a pretty poRticO full of
paLms, AnD a sPlEndid ORange cReePer, Then in fUll flowER, huNg OVER
tHe usual bungalow annExE. tHe House was Quiet, aND hAd A Semi-privAtE
asPect, MORe likE a coUNtRy bungalOw.

FindINg ThE MaharaJaH’s palaCe Was SomE five OR six Miles oFf and on
tHe othER side of the riveR, We were advised TO lEAVe OUr leTteR at
the Guest housE With Our cARdS. ThE guest house WaS QuITe near by.
Continuing oUr Drive tHrougH the bazaar we tHought the mAIN Street
wiDer tHAn MOst of the native CitieS, but the bazAArs did noT look So
busy, anD many shopS WEre vacanT. BaLcoNieS, thE ROoFs of which were
SUPporTeD on arcaDes Of slendEr cOluMns WitH HIndu caps, wEre of a
diFfErEnT tYpe To thoSE hithertO sEen. in The europEAn quarTer thEre
wErE pOOrlY-designED, wOULd-be goThIc BrItiSh BuildIngs, ANd mIssion
cHurches of The USual BaLd Type. TheRe was a Queen’s PArK with the
coMmOnpLace irON Railing aNd low stone parapet enclosINg it, theSe
iNnovaTionS, as usual, qUitE spoilIng THe surrOundinGs of a NaTivE CIty.

ThE NExT moRnIng we had a vISIt fRom thE MAharAjah’s prIvate secretary,
who iNVitEd us to drive in The AfteRNOoN to VIsIT thE BUDdhIST topes
and sculptUres at SarnAtH AbOut five milES frOm benares. an AmeriCan
laDY we had pReviously Met was to
 descriptions one had read  and the p hotog rap hson e ha d se en of this
won d erfu l place, that it would  sumup andc en trali se, asi tw e re,  t othe  e y ethe w hol e lifeof the Ind ian  p eople, while it  would als o b e a
symbol o f t heir f ai tht o the  mi nd.
It was ,  there fore, wit hu nusual anticip a t io ns t hat we turned our fa c es
thither, an d on t he 21 s t  of  Ja nuary took  t he ea r ly morn i ng t r ain from
Lucknowto the grea t  fo cus of  H ind u  worsh ip on  t h e s acred Gange s. T he
kind c ommiss i oner’sn ative s ervant , i n s carl e t,  a wai te d  us at  th e 
st ation wi th  a  part ingg i f t  and  anote  of i ntroduction t o t he M a har ajahof Be nare s. 

The  train  pass ed  through a rich er a nd more f rui tf ulco untry than u sua l,but lev el, pla i n a ll t h eway, reaching Bena re s Ca ntonment  about tw oo ’clock.We  dr ovet o  Clar k’sh ot el, whic h hasa  p re tty por ti co ful lofpal ms, a n d asplend id orang e cre e per, then in f u ll flower, hu n go v er theusu al bungalow  ann e xe.Theh ou sew as qu iet,an d  h a d a semi-private
as pe ct, mo re li ke a countrybungalow.F i nding th e Ma h ar a jah’s palace w as so me five or six mile s off  and onthe other s ide of t heriv er,  we w er e advised tol e aveou r lette r a t
the G ues t H ous e w it h our car ds. TheGu es tHo use  wasq uite nea rby. 
C ont inuin g  our d rivethro ug ht hebazaarw et h ough tth e ma inst reetwide r  th an most  of the n ati v e ci ti es , but t he bazaars di dnot look s obus y, and m any shop s were vacant. Balconie s , the r oof s ofwhic h were
su ppo rted o n a r cadesof sle nderco lum n s  with H in duca ps, were o f a
d iffer en t ty pe to t hose hitherto seen .  In  the European  qu arte r th ere we r e p oo r ly- d e signed, would-b e Gothic B ri t is h building s , a nd  missio n
churc hes o f  the us ual baldtype. The re  was a  Qu een’s Park  with th e
commonp l ace i r on  rail ing  and l ow  st one p arapet enc losin g it,th ese
in novat io ns, as u sual, quite spoiling th e surr oundi ngs  of a nat ive cit y.

The n extmorning we  ha d a  visi t f r om th e Ma h ar aja h ’s pr ivat e  secretar y ,who i nv ited us tod r i vein th e a f ternoo n to  visit the Buddhi s t topes
and sc ulpt u r esatS arna th  about five mi les  f r o m Benare s.  An America n
lady w eh ad pr evious ly met  was to 
 descriptions_one had_read and the photographs_one had_seen_of this
wonderful_place,_that it would_sum up and_centralise, as it were,_to
the eye the_whole_life of the Indian people, while it would also be a
symbol of their faith_to_the mind.

It_was,_therefore,_with unusual anticipations that we_turned our faces
thither, and on_the 21st_of January took the early morning train from
Lucknow_to_the great focus_of Hindu worship on the sacred Ganges. The
kind commissioner’s_native servant, in scarlet, awaited us_at the
station with_a_parting_gift and a note_of introduction to the Maharajah
of Benares.

The_train passed through a richer and_more fruitful country than usual,
but level, plain_all the way, reaching Benares Cantonment_about two
o’clock. We drove to_Clark’s hotel,_which has a pretty portico_full of
palms, and_a splendid_orange creeper, then_in full flower, hung over
the usual_bungalow annexe. The_house was quiet, and had a_semi-private
aspect,_more like a_country_bungalow.

Finding_the Maharajah’s_palace was some_five_or six_miles_off and on
the other side of_the_river, we were advised to leave our_letter at
the Guest House_with_our cards. The Guest_House was quite near by.
Continuing_our drive through the bazaar we_thought the_main street
wider_than most of the native cities, but the bazaars did not_look so
busy, and many shops were_vacant. Balconies, the roofs_of which_were
supported_on arcades of_slender_columns with_Hindu caps, were of a
different type to_those hitherto_seen. In the European quarter there
were_poorly-designed, would-be Gothic British_buildings,_and mission
churches of the usual bald_type. There was a Queen’s Park_with the
commonplace iron railing and_low_stone_parapet enclosing it, these
innovations, as_usual, quite spoiling the surroundings of_a native city.

The_next morning we had a visit from_the_Maharajah’s private secretary,
who invited us to_drive_in the afternoon to visit the_Buddhist_topes
and_sculptures at Sarnath about five_miles from Benares. An American
lady we_had previously met was to