 cold in the mornings and evenings, and although
there was a fireplace the lighting of a wood fire made matters worse,
for we were nearly smoked out.

    [A] We learned afterwards that it was the custom to change the
        names of hotels every six months or so.

[Illustration: DEMON HOTEL TOUTS AT AMRITZAR FIGHTING FOR THEIR PREY]

There were several English or Anglo-English at table preserving their
characteristic frigidity in the presence of strangers. A gentleman from
Manchester was the only one who showed a friendly disposition and who
had any conversation.

Driving through the city we had recourse to smelling-bottles, as owing
to the open drains each side the streets the odours which saluted our
nostrils were rather trying. I had noticed these open gulleys at Delhi
and in the native quarters in other towns. They run close in front of
the houses and open shops of the bazaars, and are crossed by slabs of
stone placed across them at intervals to give access to the houses, and
as all sorts of refuse finds its way into them it is not surprising
they should be offensive sometimes, though it had not been nearly so
noticeable elsewhere. Amritzar is said to have the benefit of the
advice of an English sanitary engineer.

The street did not strike us as so varied and interesting as other
cities we had seen, and the house fronts seemed plainer and more
modern, as a rule, though the streets were narrow enough.

[Illustration: THROUGH AMRITZAR—SIT TIGHT AND HOLD A SMELLING BOTTLE!]

From a sort of terrace we got our first view of the Golden Temple,
which is built in the centre of the large tank or lake in the centre
of the city. A broad paved causeway connects with the paved walk
along two sides of the lake. After the magnificent and beautifully
proportioned Mogul architecture of Agra and Delhi, the Golden
Temple, built at the beginning of the nineteenth century is rather
disappointing, despite its gilded domes, the building looking rather
squat, though the gold reflected in the rippling water has a charming
effect. The gilded dome of the Atal tower also shows over the
build
cold in the mornings and evenings, and although 
 there was a fireplace the lighting of a forest ardor made matters worse, 
 for we were about fume out. 

     [ A ] We learned subsequently that it was the custom to change the 
         names of hotel every six calendar month or so. 

 [ example: DEMON HOTEL TOUTS AT AMRITZAR FIGHTING FOR THEIR PREY ] 

 There were respective English or Anglo - English at table preserving their 
 characteristic frigidity in the presence of strangers. A gentleman from 
 Manchester was the only one who read a friendly disposition and who 
 had any conversation. 

 Driving through the city we receive recourse to smelling - bottles, as owing 
 to the exposed drains each side the streets the odours which saluted our 
 nostril were rather trying. I had noticed these open gulleys at Delhi 
 and in the native quarters in other township. They run close in front of 
 the houses and open shops of the bazaars, and are crossed by slabs of 
 stone place across them at intervals to give entree to the theater, and 
 as all sort of refuse finds its direction into them it is not surprising 
 they should be offensive sometimes, though it had not been nearly so 
 noticeable elsewhere. Amritzar is say to have the benefit of the 
 advice of an English sanitary engineer. 

 The street did not strike us as so varied and interesting as other 
 cities we had seen, and the sign of the zodiac fronts seemed plainer and more 
 modern, as a rule, though the street were narrow-minded enough. 

 [ Illustration: THROUGH AMRITZAR — SIT TIGHT AND HOLD A SMELLING BOTTLE! ] 

 From a sort of patio we got our first view of the Golden Temple, 
 which is built in the centre of the large tank or lake in the centre 
 of the city. A broad paved causeway connects with the paved walk of life 
 along two sides of the lake. After the brilliant and beautifully 
 proportioned Mogul architecture of Agra and Delhi, the Golden 
 Temple, built at the beginning of the nineteenth century is rather 
 disappointing, despite its gild domes, the building looking rather 
 jack, though the gold reflected in the rippling water has a charming 
 impression. The gilded dome of the Atal tower also shows over the 
 build
 copd in the mornings and eyenings, and although
thece was z fireplxce the lighting of a wood fmre nade natters worse,
for we wefe nearly smoked iut.

    [A] We leached aftcxwarda thac mt was the custpm to chance the
        taoed of hotels every six months or so.

[Ijlustrayiln: DEMON HOTEL TOUUS WT AJGIUZAR FIGHTING FOR THEIR PREY]

There were stveral English or Snglo-English at table presfrvijg their
characteridtic frigiduty yb the presenze of strangers. A gentmeman from
Manchester was the onuy onz who showee q fghendly dispisitijn and who
had any cotversatoon.

Driving thrpugi thw city we had recoursx to smelling-bottles, as owing
do the open drains waxh sige tve sgeeegs uhe osours ahirh saluted kur
nostrils were rather trying. I yad noticed tgese o[eg gulleys at Delhi
and in the native quagtera in other towns. They ryn close in front of
tje houses and open shops of the bazaars, and are crossed by slaba of
wtjvw olaced across them at intervals to give accesf tp nhe houses, and
as cll sorts of refisf gynds its way knto tksm it is not surprislng
they shouod be offtnsivr sometimes, though it had nit been nearjt so
noticeable elszwhere. Amritvar is said to have the benefit of the
zdvice of aj English ranitary engineef.

Thv stseet did not strike us as fo varied and interertinb as oeher
cities we had seen, and the houde frlnds seemed olainer and more
modern, as a rulx, though the xtseens were ncrrow cnough.

[Illustratyon: THROUGH AMTITZAR—SIT TIGHG AND HOLD A SMELNING BOTTLE!]

Srom a sort ox terrace we jot our fyrst vieq of thd Golden Temple,
ehich is ybilt in tye centre of the lerge fank or lake in tht xentre
of the coty. A frlav pavqg causeway cmnnezts eith ghe pavtb wcly
alomg two sides of the nake. After the magnifivekt and bequtifullr
proportioned Mogul architecturt of Ajra anv Delho, tre Golden
Temple, built at the bsginning lf bhe nineteentr cekturi is rather
bisappointing, despite its gilded domes, tie building looking rajher
squat, though the yokd reflectev in tre ripplitg water has a charmung
effect. The gilced dome of the Atal fower dlso dhows over the
build
cold in the mornings and evenings, and was fireplace the of a wood we nearly smoked out. We learned afterwards it was the custom to change names of hotels every six months or so. [Illustration: DEMON HOTEL TOUTS AT FIGHTING FOR THEIR PREY] There were several English or Anglo-English at table preserving characteristic in presence strangers. A gentleman from Manchester was the only one who showed a friendly disposition and who any conversation. Driving through the city we had to smelling-bottles, as owing the open drains each side streets odours which our were trying. I had these open gulleys at Delhi and in the native quarters in other towns. They run close in of the open shops the and crossed by slabs placed across them at intervals to the houses, and as all sorts of refuse its way them it is not surprising they be offensive sometimes, though it had not been so noticeable elsewhere. Amritzar is said to have the benefit of the advice of an engineer. The street did strike us as varied interesting other we had and the house fronts seemed plainer and more modern, as a though the streets were narrow enough. [Illustration: THROUGH AMRITZAR—SIT TIGHT A BOTTLE!] From a of terrace we got first of the Golden Temple, built the large or in the centre of city. A broad paved causeway with the paved walk lake. After the magnificent and beautifully proportioned Mogul of Agra and Delhi, the Golden Temple, at the beginning of the nineteenth century is rather disappointing, despite its domes, the rather squat, though the gold reflected in the water has a charming The gilded dome of the Atal tower also shows the
 cold in the mornings and eveniNgs, and althOugh
tHerE waS a FirePlacE the lighting of A Wood Fire made matters worse,
foR we weRe NEarlY SmOked oUt.

    [A] We leARnED AftErWaRds ThAT iT was tHe cUstom to Change the
        nAmeS oF hotels every SIx Months or so.

[illUstration: DEMoN HoTEL TOuTs AT amRITZaR FiGHTInG FOR TheIR PREy]

There werE sEVeral ENGlish or aNGlO-EngLish at table preserVInG Their
characterIstic fRiGIdITY in The Presence of StRangeRS. A gentlEMaN FROm
MANchester was thE only one who SHowEd a friEnDly DIsposiTion aNd WHo
hAd any converSatiOn.

Driving ThrougH The city WE had recOurse tO smEllIng-bOTtLeS, as OwINg
tO ThE opEN drAins each SiDe The stReetS THE OdouRs wHich SalutEd our
nostrils WerE ratHEr tRying. i had nOticEd These Open guLleys At delhi
and in the naTive Quarters iN otHeR toWnS. They RUn closE in FroNt of
the Houses aND opEn SHOPs Of the bazaars, and are CrOSSeD by slabs Of
stonE PlAcED across tHeM at InteRVAls to Give ACcEss to the Houses, ANd
As All sortS oF refusE fIndS itS way iNTo thEm it is Not surprIsing
THey should be offENsive sometimeS, ThOUGh IT had Not Been nearly sO
notICeabLe elSEwHerE. amritZar is SaID tO Have the benefit of the
AdVice of An EngLish sanitary eNgineer.

The STREet did noT strIKe US as so varied and InterEsting as otHEr
cities We had Seen, and tHe house frONTs seemed PlaIneR anD moRE
MoDern, as a rule, thOUGh thE sTreets wEre Narrow eNouGh.

[ILluStrAtIon: THROUGh AMRITZAr—SiT tIgHt ANd HOLD a sMELLING bOtTLe!]

FRom A sort OF terraCe we gOt ouR fIrST viEw of the gOlDEN TemPlE,
wHich Is bUiLt in tHe ceNTre Of the laRge tank or LakE In thE cEnTre
of thE city. A broad paVeD causeway cOnNecTs with THE paved waLk
along two sides of the lakE. after thE maGnifiCent And beautiFulLy
propOrtIOned MoGul arcHitecTuRe oF aGra anD dElHi, tHe golden
TempLE, BuiLt at tHe BegiNning of The nineteenth centuRY is Rather
disappoIntIng, dESPiTe iTS gILdeD dOMes, THE building lookinG rather
squAt, THoUgh the gold REflEcTed in thE rippliNg watER has a chArming
effEct. The gilDeD domE OF thE Atal tower Also showS over the
bUIld
 cold in the mornings andevenings,and a lth oug hther e wa s a fireplacet he l ighting of a wood fire  made  m a tter s  w orse, 
for we we r e  ne ar ly  sm ok e dout.
   [A] W e learnedaft er wards that i t  w as the cus tom  to change t he      nam e s ofhot els e very s i x mont hs or so. 
[ Illust r ation:D E MO N HO TEL TOUTS AT AMRI T ZA R  FIGHTING FORTHEIRPR E Y] The rewere sever al  Engl i sh or A n gl o - E ngl i sh at table p reserving t h eir 
chara ct eri s tic fr igidi ty inthe presenc e of  stranger s. A g e ntleman from
Ma nchest erwas  the on ly  on ew hos ho wed a f riendlydi sp ositi on a n d w ho
h adanyconve rsation.

Dri vin g th r oug h the  city  weha d rec ourseto sm el ling-bottles, a s ow ing
to th e o pe n d ra ins e a ch sid e t hestreets  the od o urs  w h i c hsaluted our
nostri ls w er e rather  tryin g .Ih ad notic ed  th eseo p en gu lley s  a t Delhiand in th enativequ arters  i n o the r tow n s. T hey ru n closein fr o nt of
the hous e s and open sh o ps o ft he b aza ars, and ar e cr o ssed  bys la bso f
sto ne pl ac e da cross them at inter va ls togiveaccess to the  houses, a n d as all s orts of refuse finds i ts wa y into the m  it is n ot su rprising 
they sho u l d be off ens ive  so met i m es , though it h a d  not  b een nea rly  so
not ice abl e e lse wh ere. Amri tzar issa id  t ohav e the benefitof  th eadv ice o f  an En glish  san it ar y  en gineer. 
T h e  str ee tdidnot  s trike  usa s s o varie d and int ere s ting  a sother
c ities we hadse en, and th ehou se fro n t s seemed  plainer and more
moder n , as arul e, th ough  the stre ets  werenar r ow eno ugh.
[Illu st rat i o n: TH R O UG H A MR ITZAR—SITT I GHT  ANDHO LD A  SMELLI NG BOTTLE!]

Froma  so rt of terrace  we  got o ur  fi r st vie wo f t h e  Golden Temple, 
which isbu i lt  in the ce n tre  o f the l arge ta nk or lake in  the cent re
of the  c ity. A  br oad pavedcauseway  connects witht he  pave d w alk
al on g t wo si des of the  lake . Afte rthe ma gnifi ce nt and b eautifully
proportioned  Mogul  arch ite cture ofAgr a  an d Delhi,theGolden
Tem ple , b uiltatt he be ginn i ng  of the n inet e enth cent u ry  is r at her
disappo i n t ing , des pit e  its g ilde d domes, the buil d ing looking ra ther s qua t,t houg hthe gold refle cte di n  the rip pl ing water h as a cha rm i ng
ef fect.The gi lded do m e  o f  the A taltow er also s how so ver the 
b ui l d
 cold_in the_mornings and evenings, and_although
there was_a_fireplace the_lighting_of a wood_fire made matters_worse,
for we were nearly_smoked out.

 __ [A] We learned afterwards that it was the custom to change the
 __ ___ names of hotels every_six months or so.

[Illustration: DEMON_HOTEL TOUTS_AT AMRITZAR FIGHTING FOR THEIR PREY]

There were several_English_or Anglo-English at_table preserving their
characteristic frigidity in the presence of strangers._A gentleman from
Manchester was the only_one who showed_a_friendly_disposition and who
had any_conversation.

Driving through the city we had_recourse to smelling-bottles, as owing
to the_open drains each side the streets the_odours which saluted our
nostrils were rather_trying. I had noticed these_open gulleys_at Delhi
and in the native_quarters in other_towns. They_run close in_front of
the houses and open shops_of the bazaars,_and are crossed by slabs of
stone_placed_across them at_intervals_to_give access_to the houses,_and
as_all sorts_of_refuse finds its way into them_it_is not surprising
they should be offensive sometimes,_though it had not_been_nearly so
noticeable elsewhere. Amritzar_is said to have the_benefit of the
advice of an English_sanitary engineer.

The_street did_not strike us as so varied and interesting as other
cities we_had seen, and the house fronts_seemed plainer and more
modern,_as a_rule,_though the streets_were_narrow enough.

[Illustration:_THROUGH AMRITZAR—SIT TIGHT AND HOLD A SMELLING_BOTTLE!]

From a_sort of terrace we got our_first view of the_Golden_Temple,
which is built in the centre_of the large tank or lake_in the centre
of the city._A_broad_paved causeway connects with the_paved walk
along two sides of the_lake. After the_magnificent and beautifully
proportioned Mogul architecture of Agra_and_Delhi, the Golden
Temple, built at the_beginning_of the nineteenth century is rather
disappointing,_despite_its_gilded domes, the building looking_rather
squat, though the gold reflected in_the rippling water has a charming
effect. The gilded dome_of the Atal_tower also shows over the
build