dining-room.

The next day, January 23rd, His Highness’s secretary had arranged to
send a carriage for us quite early (about 7 A.M.), to take us to see
the ghats. When we reached the river side, which is a considerable
drive from the Guest House, we found a beautiful state barge awaiting
us. It was shaped and painted like a peacock, and had a little pavilion
in the centre. In this lovely vessel we embarked, and glided slowly
down the river with the stream, guided by the scarlet-jacketed oarsmen,
with their long bamboo handled oars, and a broad steering paddle at the
stern.

[Illustration: BENARES: VIEWING THE GHATS FROM THE MAHARAJAH’S PEACOCK
BOAT]

The spectacle of Benares from a boat on the Ganges is perhaps the most
extraordinary sight in all India. At every ghat or opening to the
river, down the great flights of steps, a throng of natives in all the
colours of the rainbow press to the water’s edge. Some plunge in, some
approach timidly, and very gradually submerge themselves. Their brown
skins shining in the water. The men always have some sort of waist
cloth on, but the women go in in their garments, or, at least, clad to
their waists. All ages are there—it recalled the mediæval allegories
of the Fountain of Youth. One does not often see infants dipped, though
they are, occasionally, by their parents, and object to the water in
the same natural and vigorous manner as European babies are apt to do
at their baptism.

Old tottering women and men may be seen, as well as the young, strong
and vigorous, all earnestly washing, or performing strange genuflexions
with the most determined devotion. Characteristic features of this
wonderful scene are the large matting umbrellas of the priests, who sit
on small platforms of bamboo raised on the steps. These expect fees to
be paid them by those who come to bathe at the ghats. Rows of snake
charmers greet the traveller on landing at the ghats, who turn hissing
cobras out of circular boxes and hold them al
dining - room. 

 The next day, January 23rd, His Highness ’s secretary had arranged to 
 station a passenger car for us quite early (about 7 A.M.), to take us to witness 
 the ghats. When we reached the river english, which is a considerable 
 driveway from the Guest House, we found a beautiful state of matter barge awaiting 
 us. It was shaped and paint like a peacock, and had a little pavilion 
 in the center. In this adorable vessel we embarked, and glided lento 
 down the river with the stream, lead by the scarlet - jacketed oarsmen, 
 with their long bamboo handled oar, and a broad steering paddle at the 
 buttocks. 

 [ Illustration: BENARES: view THE GHATS FROM THE MAHARAJAH ’S PEACOCK 
 BOAT ] 

 The spectacle of Benares from a boat on the Ganges is possibly the most 
 extraordinary sight in all India. At every ghat or opening to the 
 river, down the great flight of steps, a throng of natives in all the 
 colours of the rainbow press to the urine ’s edge. Some plunge in, some 
 approach timidly, and very gradually submerge themselves. Their brown 
 skins shining in the water. The men always suffer some sort of waist 
 fabric along, but the women go in in their garments, or, at least, clad to 
 their waist. All ages are there — it recalled the mediæval allegories 
 of the Fountain of Youth. One does not often determine infants dipped, though 
 they are, occasionally, by their parents, and object to the water in 
 the same natural and vigorous manner as European baby are apt to do 
 at their baptism. 

 Old tottering charwoman and men may be visit, as well as the young, strong 
 and vigorous, all earnestly washing, or performing foreign genuflexions 
 with the most determined devotion. Characteristic features of this 
 wonderful scene are the large matting umbrella of the priests, who sit 
 on minor platforms of bamboo raise on the steps. These ask fees to 
 be pay them by those who come to bathe at the ghats. Rows of snake 
 charmers greet the traveler on landing at the ghats, who turn hissing 
 cobra out of circular boxes and hold them al
dinlng-room.

The next day, Januxry 23rd, His Highuwss’s sxcretarg had arfanged to
send a carriage for uw quiuv early (about 7 A.M.), to gake us tl see
the ghaus. When we reachev the riyzr sisc, whieh is a considersble
drive xrom the Guest Huude, we found a beautiful state barge awaitimg
ks. It was shapgd anc paihneb like a peacock, and had a littme pavinion
in the cemtre. In this lovely vessel we fmbarked, and glidef slowly
dowb thq river with ghe stream, guided by tge scarlet-jacketed oarsmen,
with gheir long bambio hajgled oars, aid a bgoad steering paddle dt the
syern.

[Illustratipn: UENAEES: VIEWING THE GHATS FROM THE MAHARAJAR’S PEACOCN
BKAT]

The spectacle if Benates fsom x boxt kn tge Ganhes is perhapa the most
eztraordinary sight on qll India. At svery dhwt or opening to the
river, down the greau flifhts of steps, a throng if natives in all the
folours os the rainbow press to the water’s edge. Some plunga in, aume
ciiroazy himidly, and very gradually submerge themselvef. Tnepr brown
skins shiking in the water. Yhf kgn always have some sorf of waist
cloth on, but thg womeb go in ig thrir garments, or, at least, clqd to
their wcisrs. All ages are thzre—it recallzd the mediæfal allegories
of the Fobntain of Youth. Oje does nkg often see infavts dhpped, though
they are, occasyonally, bb thenr parengs, amd objqct to the watev in
the same naturap and vhgorous majner as European babies are apt to do
at their bdptpsm.

Old tocterinn women and men may be seen, ax well cs the young, strkng
and tigorous, all earnestly wavjing, or perfmrming serante gwnuflexkuns
with the moxt determpntd devotiob. Characteristic fcaturgs of this
wonderfbu scene are the karee iantiig umfsellas of tha prkesgx, who sit
on smalo playforms of bamboo raived kn the steps. These ewpect feew to
be pwid them by tnose who come to bwthe et the ghatx. Rjws of snake
charmers greet the travelleg ok landing at ehe nhatf, who turn hissing
cobras out of circular boxes anv hold them al
dining-room. The next day, January 23rd, His had to send carriage for us to us to see ghats. When we the river side, which is a drive from the Guest House, we found a beautiful state barge awaiting us. was shaped and painted like a peacock, and had a little pavilion in centre. this vessel embarked, and glided slowly down the river with the stream, guided by the scarlet-jacketed oarsmen, with long bamboo handled oars, and a broad steering at the stern. [Illustration: VIEWING THE GHATS FROM THE PEACOCK The spectacle Benares a on the Ganges perhaps the most extraordinary sight in all India. At every ghat or opening to the river, down great flights a throng natives all colours of the to the water’s edge. Some plunge timidly, and very gradually submerge themselves. Their brown shining in water. The men always have some of waist cloth on, but the women go in their garments, or, at least, clad to their waists. All ages are there—it recalled allegories of the Fountain Youth. One does often infants though are, occasionally, their parents, and object to the water in the same natural vigorous manner as European babies are apt to do at Old women and men be seen, as well the strong and vigorous, all or strange most devotion. features of this wonderful are the large matting umbrellas the priests, who sit raised on the steps. These expect fees to paid them by those who come to at the ghats. Rows of snake charmers greet the traveller on landing the ghats, hissing cobras out of circular boxes and hold al
dining-room.

The next day, JanuaRy 23rd, His HigHness’S seCreTaRy haD arrAnged to
send a caRRiagE for us quite early (about 7 A.m.), to taKe US to sEE
tHe ghaTs. When wE ReACHed ThE rIveR sIDe, Which Is a ConsideRable
drive FroM tHe Guest House, WE fOund a beautIfuL state barge aWaiTing
us. it Was SHaped And PaintEd like A PeacocK, and had a lItTLe paviLIon
in thE CEnTre. IN this lovely vessel WE eMBarked, and glideD slowlY
dOWn THE riVer With the strEaM, guidED by the sCArLET-JacKEted oarsmen,
wiTh their long BAmbOo handLeD oaRS, and a bRoad sTeERinG paddle at thE
steRn.

[IllustrAtion: BenARES: VIewING THE gHATS FrOM tHE mAHAraJaH’s PEaCocK
BoaT]

the SPecTacle of BEnArEs froM a boAT ON The GAngEs is PerhaPs the most
extrAorDinaRY siGht in All InDia. AT eVery gHat or oPeninG tO the
river, down thE greAt flights Of sTePs, a ThRong oF NativeS in All The
coloUrs of thE RaiNbOW PReSs to the water’s edge. SOmE PLuNge in, somE
approACh TiMIdly, and vErY grAduaLLY submErge THeMselves. THeir brOWn
SkIns shinInG in the WaTer. the Men alWAys hAve somE sort of wAist
cLOth on, but the womEN go in in their gARmENTs, OR, at lEasT, clad to
theiR waiSTs. AlL ageS ArE thERe—it rEcallEd THe MEdiæval allegories
of ThE FountAin of youth. One does nOt often see INFAnts dippEd, thOUgH
They are, occasioNally, By their parENts, and obJect tO the wateR in
the samE NAtural anD viGorOus ManNER aS European babiES Are aPt To do
at tHeiR baptisM.

OlD toTteRinG wOmen and meN may be seEn, As WeLl As tHe youNG, strong
aNd VigOrOus, All eaRNestly WashiNg, or PeRfORmiNg stranGE gENUfleXiOnS
witH thE mOst deTermINed DevotioN. CharacteRisTIc feAtUrEs of thiS
wonderful sceNe Are the largE mAttIng umbRELlas of thE priests, who sit
on small plATforms oF baMboo rAiseD on the stePs. THese exPecT Fees to
Be paid Them bY tHosE WHo comE TO bAthE aT the ghats. ROWS of Snake
ChArmeRs greet The traveller on landINg aT the ghats, who tUrn HissING
cObrAS oUT of CiRCulAR Boxes and hold theM al
dining-room.

The next day , January23rd,  Hi s H ig hnes s’ssecretary hada rran ged to
send a carriage  forus quit e  e arly(about7  A . M .),  t otak eu sto se e
t he ghat s. When we  re ac hed the rive r  s ide, which  is  a considera ble 
drive  f rom the G ues t Hou se, we founda beautif ul stateb arge aw a i ti ng
u s. It was shapeda nd painted like a  peaco ck ,  a n d  ha d a  little pa vi lioni n the c e nt r e .  In this lovely v essel we em b ark ed, an dgli d ed slo wly
d ow n  th e river wit h th e stream,  guide d  by the scarlet -jacke ted  oa rsme n ,wi thth e irl on g b a mbo o handle doa rs, a nd a b r o ad s tee ring  padd le at the
ste rn. 

[I l lus trati on: B ENAR ES : VIE WING T HE GH AT S FROM THE MAHA RAJA H’S PEACO CKBO AT] 
The s p ectacl e o f B enaresfrom ab oat  o n t he  Ganges is perhaps  t h e  m ost
extr aordin a ry  s i ght in a ll  In dia. A t eve ry g h at  or open ing to th eriver,do wn the  g rea t f light s  ofsteps,  a thron g ofn atives in allt he
colours of th e ra i nbow  pr ess to thewate r ’s e dge. So mep lunge  in,so m ea pproach timidly, an dvery g radua lly submergethemselves . T heir bro wn
s k in s  shining in th e wat er. The me n  alwayshavesome sor t of wais t cloth on , b utthe  wo m e ngo in in thei r garm en ts, or,  at  least,  cl adtothe ir  waists.All ages  a re  t he re— it re c alled th emed iæ val  alle g oriesof th e Fo un ta i n o f Youth .  O n e  doe sno t of ten  s ee in fant s  di pped, t hough
the y a r e, o cc as ionally , by their pa re nts, and o bj ect  to th e water in 
the same natural and v i gorousman ner a s Eu ropean ba bie s areapt to doat the ir ba pt ism . 
Oldt o tt eri ng  women and m enmay b eseen , as we ll as the young, s t ron g
and vigorou s,alle a rn est l yw ash in g , o r performing stra nge genufl ex i on s
with the mos tdetermi ned dev otion .  Charac teristicfeaturesof  thi s won derful sce ne are t he largem attin g  u mbrel las  of th epri ests,  who s i t
o n sma ll pla tf orms o f bam bo o raised  on the steps. These ex pect f ees t o
b e paid th emb y t hose whocome  to batheatthe  ghat s.R ows o f sn a ke 
ch a rmers  gre e t the tra v el ler o nlanding att h e  gh ats,who turn h issi ng
cobras out ofc ircular boxesandh o ldthe m  al
dining-room.

The next_day, January_23rd, His Highness’s secretary_had arranged_to
send_a carriage_for_us quite early_(about 7 A.M.),_to take us to_see
the ghats. When_we_reached the river side, which is a considerable
drive from the Guest House, we found_a_beautiful state_barge_awaiting
us._It was shaped and painted_like a peacock, and had_a little_pavilion
in the centre. In this lovely vessel we_embarked,_and glided slowly
down_the river with the stream, guided by the scarlet-jacketed_oarsmen,
with their long bamboo handled oars,_and a broad_steering_paddle_at the
stern.

[Illustration: BENARES: VIEWING_THE GHATS FROM THE MAHARAJAH’S PEACOCK
BOAT]

The_spectacle of Benares from a boat_on the Ganges is perhaps the most
extraordinary_sight in all India. At every_ghat or opening to the
river,_down the_great flights of steps, a_throng of natives_in all_the
colours of the_rainbow press to the water’s edge._Some plunge in,_some
approach timidly, and very gradually submerge_themselves._Their brown
skins shining_in_the_water. The_men always have_some_sort of_waist
cloth_on, but the women go in_in_their garments, or, at least, clad to
their_waists. All ages are_there—it_recalled the mediæval allegories
of_the Fountain of Youth. One_does not often see infants dipped,_though
they are,_occasionally, by_their parents, and object to the water in
the same natural and_vigorous manner as European babies are_apt to do
at their_baptism.

Old tottering_women_and men may_be_seen, as_well as the young, strong
and vigorous, all_earnestly washing,_or performing strange genuflexions
with the most_determined devotion. Characteristic features_of_this
wonderful scene are the large matting_umbrellas of the priests, who sit
on_small platforms of bamboo raised_on_the_steps. These expect fees to
be_paid them by those who come_to bathe at_the ghats. Rows of snake
charmers greet the_traveller_on landing at the ghats, who_turn_hissing
cobras out of circular boxes and_hold_them_al