<https://community.fmca.com/topic/11719-update-flat-towing-2010-2018-equinox-and-2010-2017-terrain/#comment-111871>
<http://schema.org/text>
"Our experience is similar to hunter41. Towed our 2014 Equinox 6000 miles last summer. I had a charge line run through the umbilical cord to the positive lead on the battery and did not pull any fuses. I did notice that the front wheels would drag through tight turns. About halfway through the trip the battery started  going dead. I bought the RVi charger but that did no good (I know now that I need to run a separate ground - thnx hunter41). I switched the charge line feeding the RVi charger to the house batteries (kept up by the solar panels) and still the battery would die. However in this configuration, just a few minutes on the RVi charger with the key in the toad off would charge the battery enough to start the car.\n \n\n\n\tThen I pulled a few hops with fuse 32 pulled but still the battery would die. A side effect of this was that it also disables the front 12v plug which I was using to run the RVi brake. So seeing that I was running without a brake anyway, I just left the brake off, pulled fuse 32 and bungie corded the steering wheel to the seat frame. In this configuration I always had a full battery when we got to the stop, the tires weren't scrubbing in turns and I experienced no wobble. \n \n\n\n\tNext season I will run a 14 ga ground from the coach to the negative in the Equinox and get the RVi brake working on another circuit. I really didn't notice a difference between brake and no brake, but I want to use the brake just to be safe and legal. I still haven't figured out why with fuse 32 pulled and the brake not working the battery was still dying. I thought it was the toad brake light running off the toad battery (RVi  brake was beating the coach brake light to the diode),  but  with no brake this should not have happened.  \n \n"
<https://community.fmca.com/topic/11719-update-flat-towing-2010-2018-equinox-and-2010-2017-terrain/>