_:n550a3b644bb94468adfb91672cda3e0bxb22
<http://schema.org/reviewBody>
"This Husky Inside/Outside Reamer is a good idea, but ----- . \r\nWhen cutting any kind of metallic pipe, the cutter will always leave a sharp ridge around the inside, and often a little raised ridge around the outside, depending on how forceful one is with the cutter. When cutting PVC, whether cut with a saw or with a purpose-made PVC cutter, there will be a ridge both inside and outside. \r\nGood sweat joints (cement with PVC) require a smooth, clean fit. Proper flow of liquids, and gases, requires smooth pipe and joints. Any burrs can cause turbulence which can lead to problems later. Generally speaking, turbulence is not desirable. Additionally, higher pressures can erode the ridge and cause small pieces to fall off. Those particles then end up in the lines and wherever they terminate, which is not good. \r\nIf there are solids (as in hard water), those solids can, and will, build up behind the ridge and eventually reduce the flow volume. Also, some those solids may eventually break off in chunks and plug small orifices such as in valves. \r\nI tried this reamer both inside and outside with ¾” copper, and ¾“ PVC. Inside was barely OK on copper. It takes much more effort than a pocket knife, and tends to gouge spots on the inside of the pipe. I’ll stick with the knife. Outside it’s useless. There is no way to keep it centered, so it “walks” around and leaves little burrs sticking out. Those burrs then have to be file or sanded off. On the PVC, it works great for inside but, like with the copper, it’s pretty much useless for outside. Might as well just use sandcloth or, in extreme cases, a file. \r\nI would definitely use this reamer inside PVC in places (like a trench) where it’s difficult to use a knife, but that’s probably about it for my purposes. I wouldn’t even think about using it for iron pipe."
<https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-5-8-in-Inner-Outer-Reamer-80-536-111/304384086>