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"  No matter whether energy prices go up or down, you won&amp;#039;t be able to reap the fullest savings unless your house is properly insulated. And if your home was built prior to 1970, its blanket of insulation may not be up to current building codes. While you&amp;#039;ll be spending money on installation (typically 50 cents to $2.50 per square foot), replacing and/or adding insulation can slash energy bills by as much as 30 percent and give you a warmer house in the winter and a cooler one in the summer. An upgrade may also qualify you for tax credits (to learn how, visit naima.org or simplyinsulate.com). You&amp;#039;ll need to decide which material to use. The most common choice is fiberglass\u2014the familiar pink batting that gets rolled out between framing studs. Other options include cellulose, foam, and cotton. Each has distinct benefits, but they all require proper installation\u2014a shoddy job is akin to an unbuttoned jacket. Cellulose and foam are best handled by a pro, and the Insulation Contractors Association of America (insulate.org) can refer you to members in your area. If you decide to take on the installation yourself, carefully follow the manufacturer&amp;#039;s recommendations for wearing protective clothing and gear such as safety glasses and a dust- or respirator mask. In the chart on the following pages, we&amp;#039;ve broken down the four main types of insulation and listed the pros and cons of each. The R-value is a measure of an insulation&amp;#039;s resistance to heat flow; the higher the R-value, the greater the insulating effectiveness. For more background about insulation, the U.S. Department of Energy has a helpful site: energysavers.gov.  Cellulose A combination of shredded newsprint, cardboard, and other recycled papers is treated with a flame- retardant solution. PerformancePros: Readily available. Made of recycled materials. Its density creates an excellent barrier against air infiltration and sound. Withstands freezing temperatures. Its thin profile is ideal for tight spots such as narrow walls or attic crawl spaces.Cons: Absorbs moisture, which can promote mold growth. Its fire-retardant solution may deteriorate over time or if exposed to wetness, though the material&amp;#039;s extreme density will always slow the spread of flames. Installation Applied dry (blown in) or wet (sprayed on). Wet cellulose works well in limited space since only a thin layer is required. It needs to cure completely (typically a few days) before drywall is hung to prevent mold and fungus growth. Settles up to 25 percent, so extra material must be factored in during installation. Does not cause itching or irritation; any fibers released into the air during installation aren&amp;#039;t considered hazardous. r-value 3.6 to 3.8 per inch Price $ Inexpensive  Fiberglass  A mixture of glass chips, sand, and inorganic products is melted at high temperatures and spun into fiberglass. PeformancePros: Widely available. Easy to install. The least expensive option. About 25 percent of the raw materials are recycled. Does not absorb moisture, so it will keep mold and fungus at bay. Batts with foil or plastic facings are noncombustible.Cons: Not ideal in subzero temperatures. Less effective than other insulation at blocking air and sound. Some fiberglass contains formaldehyde; Johns Manville has introduced formaldehyde-free fiberglass and plastic-wrapped batts to address this. Installation Available in rolled-in batts (of various widths and thicknesses) and blown-in loose-fill material (of small fiberglass pieces). While easy to work with, to be effective, batts need to be installed precisely, with no breaches along the perimeters. May irritate skin and be harmful if inhaled. Loose fill results in fewer air leaks and is a good retrofit solution, since it can be blown in through holes bored into a house&amp;#039;s siding. r-value 3.6 to 3.8 per inch Price $ Inexpensive  Foam  Available in soft foam (polyicynene, liquid urethane, or a soy-based compound) or in rigid foam panels that provide structural support. Performance Pros: Both types are eco-friendly, excellent sound absorbers, and fire resistant, and they perform extremely well against air infiltration. Soft foam adheres to all structural materials, resulting in an impenetrable air barrier. Rigid foam offers the highest resistance to sound transmission, making it particularly effective in noisy areas or severe climates.Cons: Because soft foam can be such an impervious air barrier, you may want to consider a ventilation system for new construction. Rigid foam is better suited for new construction than retrofitting. Installation Soft foam is sprayed into stud cavities. The effectiveness of rigid foam boards depends on proper installation, so it&amp;#039;s best to hire a professional. r-valueSoft Foam: 3.5 to 7.2 per inchRigid Foam: 3.8 to 5 per inch PriceSoft Foam: $$ (and up) Moderately ExpensiveRigid Foam: $ Inexpensive "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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