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"   FLAGPOLE HOLE        Click to Enlarge     1 Allen started from scratch with a new hole and fresh concrete. Pro flagpole installer Tony Clayton recommends planting the pole as Allen did: by sinking 10 percent of the pole&amp;#039;s height into a PVC sleeve. A 6-inch crushed-stone setting bed and an 80-pound bag of ready-to-mix concrete hold the sleeve in place. Set the pipe on gravel, add half the mixed concrete, and plumb the sleeve with a 4-foot level, reading the level flush against two points in the sleeve. Add the rest of the mix, check plumb while tamping the concrete, and wait 48 hours. SLEEVE 2  Kits size the pole and sleeve to match. The sleeve forms a tight fit, so Allen lubes the pole with Vaseline for easy removal in a storm.  POLE 3 Fiberglass poles are lighter and stronger than aluminum. Steel poles, and any over 25 feet, are overkill. Sectional poles work--they&amp;#039;re easier to move but weaker than single-piece models. CLEAT 4 Wrap the loop of halyard rope around an aluminum cleat in a figure eight. Tuck the last 6 inches of rope into the knot. Don&amp;#039;t pull the rope too taut--it shrinks and tightens. HALYARD 5 Use double-braid marine-grade nylon rope, not single. Join rope ends in a sheet bend between the flag clips to stop the rope knot from snagging in the pulley. The slack should dangle just above the ground.  CLIPS + FLAG 6 Clayton hangs the flag on plastic clips or sheathed metal clips. &amp;quot;Otherwise, the clanging will drive you crazy,&amp;quot; he says. Site the pole with power lines and branches at least 5 feet from the extended flag&amp;#039;s edge. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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