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" San Francisco Frances. What a nice name. It was chef and owner Melissa Perello&amp;#039;s grandmother&amp;#039;s, and this corner bistro in the Castro district pays homage to her. The word decor doesn&amp;#039;t apply here, because there&amp;#039;s not much to speak of, but somehow it&amp;#039;s inviting. The menu, printed on a single sheet of paper with FRANCES rubber-stamped at the top, changes nightly. A recent night offered five bouch\u00E9es to nibble on, like chickpea fritters and bacon beignets with maple cr\u00E8me fra\u00EEche. Four appetizers, including ricotta gnocchi with porcini-and-morel ragout and white-corn soup with chanterelles and tomato. Four entr\u00E9es, like bavette skirt steak with summer squash and baked ricotta and herb-stuffed guinea hen with creamy polenta, corn, and apricots. Two sides, three desserts, some artisanal cheeses. That&amp;#039;s it. In this way, Frances epitomizes the emerging cooldown approach to feeding people. Not bloggers, not gourmands, not reviewers: People with grandmothers, whatever their names may have been (mine were Alvina and Rubina), who served whatever came out of the oven. And the fact that it&amp;#039;s such an amiable place \u2014 if you can get a reservation \u2014 makes the idea of a Sunday supper here all the more appealing. I recommend nothing in particular because no dish is more special than the next. Perello has worked in some high-end San Francisco restaurants \u2014 Charles Nob Hill, Fifth Floor \u2014 and at Frances she brings all she knows down to an elemental level. It&amp;#039;s all good. No, it&amp;#039;s all pretty wonderful. And it&amp;#039;s always different, just like dinner at home. 3870 Seventeenth Street; 415-621-3870; frances-sf.com "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/reviews/a8720/frances-san-francisco-1110/>