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" High Dynamic Range (HDR) Imaging  Photo courtesy of Unified Color What It Is High Dynamic Range or HDR imaging is a technique which combines several photos into one shot to increase an image&amp;#039;s &amp;quot;dynamic range.&amp;quot; Dynamic range is the level of exposure between the light and dark areas of an image; so photos with low dynamic range have dark shadows and bright highlights, while those with high dynamic range have luminance that&amp;#039;s evenly balanced, with extra detail. The most popular current use for HDR imaging software is to even out exposure while dramatically increasing the level of detail in an image\u2014especially landscapes at dusk or cityscapes at night\u2014to create a hyper-real or even surreal look. Overdoing it with HDR can look cheesy, though, and some professional photographers find the technique, when abused, to be gimmicky. How It&amp;#039;s Done HDR imaging is primarily a software-based technique, and while you can create a high dynamic range look with Adobe&amp;#039;s $700 Photoshop, there are easier ways to do it with less expensive programs. Two pieces of HDR software we like are HDRsoft&amp;#039;s Photomatix Pro ($99) and Unified Color&amp;#039;s HDR PhotoStudio ($149) which do basically the same thing but in slightly different ways. To create an HDR image with one of these programs you must first capture three or more photos of the same scene, all with different exposure settings. The best way to do this is to mount your digital SLR on a tripod and use the camera&amp;#039;s Auto-Exposure Bracketing (AEB) setting, which will quickly and automatically snap multiple shots with low-, medium- and high-exposure settings. Then load your images into the HDR processing software, which will combine them into one shot. How dramatic\u2014or subtle\u2014you want the HDR effect is up to you. The program&amp;#039;s Tone Mapping settings allow you to tweak luminance, color saturation and other visual elements of your image. The Tilt-Shift &amp;quot;Miniature&amp;quot; Effect  Photo by Lindsay Silverman What It Is Overhead shots of people, cars, trucks or other vehicles that look like miniature figurines. The may look like tiny dioramas, but are actually real scenes captured with a tilt-shift lens, which allows you to control perspective in your image by tilting and shifting the lens in front of the sensor or film to produce an extremely shallow depth of field. The effect is enhanced with lenses with very wide apertures (i.e., low-f/stop numbers)\u2014this puts certain objects in sharp focus while others are blurred. The skewed perspective creates the illusion you&amp;#039;re looking at a miniature scale model of a scene. The look can also be produced with software which simulates the tilt-shift lens effect. How It&amp;#039;s Done A tilt-shift lens, also called a perspective control lens, lets you physically change the axis of the glass element in front of your digital SLR&amp;#039;s image sensor or film. If you&amp;#039;re going for the miniature effect, you&amp;#039;ll want to focus on the tilt control of the lens, not the shift. Tilt is measured in degrees and is adjusted by turning knobs on the side of the lens barrel. The glass will literally tilt in front of the sensor or film, allowing the photographer to control where the sharpest point of focus should go in an image. And since the lens&amp;#039; wide aperture will create a very narrow plane of focus\u2013or shallow depth-of-field\u2013only a small part of the image will be sharp while the rest will be dramatically blurred.  To &amp;quot;miniaturize&amp;quot; cars or people in an image, keep those subjects in focus while leaving the backgrounds, such as landscapes or buildings, blurred. It also increases the effect if you&amp;#039;re shooting down on your subject, such as from a hill or an airplane. The miniaturized look can be duplicated in software or via websites such as TiltShiftMaker.com, but it&amp;#039;s not as striking as when done with an actual tilt-shift lens. Be forewarned, however, perspective-control lenses are not cheap. Long Exposure Photography  Photo by Lindsay Silverman What It Is Long-exposure photography is exactly what its name suggests: increasing the length of time a camera&amp;#039;s image sensor or film is exposed to the light. Long-exposure photography is most commonly used when shooting at night, to boost the brightness in a scene. Photographers have discovered that long-exposure shots can also add eye-catching, artistic looks to particular subject matter, in particular, moving lights at night: spinning carnival rides, vehicles on a highway, fireworks. These shots result in dazzling light trails that suggest movement in your image. Long-exposure images are also effective in creating the appearance of movement in rushing water such as when photographing a river or a waterfall. (In contrast, fast shutter speeds freeze action, which is why they&amp;#039;re frequently used for shooting sports.) And when used on fog or mist, long exposures can create a mysterious, dream-like atmosphere.  How It&amp;#039;s Done The most important thing to remember when you&amp;#039;re creating a long-exposure image is to use a tripod. We don&amp;#039;t care how steady your hands are or what type of image stabilization your camera or lens has, you&amp;#039;ll need a tripod to decrease blur from camera shake in a long-exposure shot. Next, choose the right subject matter to create an attractive shot. Ideal candidates include lights at night, rushing water or fog. The length of your exposure is up to you and is adjustable via the manual controls on your camera. Your camera will let you choose a shutter speed\u2014we suggest a few seconds\u2014and then automatically fire the shutter for you. In your manual controls, there&amp;#039;s also a setting called Bulb (or &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;) which lets you keep the shutter open for as long as you want. You&amp;#039;ll want to use a remote to control the shutter, since physically pressing it down will add shake to your image. Second (Rear) Curtain Flash Sync to Create Light Trails  Photo by Lindsay Silverman What It Is You can also show movement in an image using a flash technique called Second or Rear Curtain Sync. (The effect is also sometimes referred to as Slow Sync.) In regular flash photography, the flash automatically fires when the curtains of the shutter are opened and closed to freeze the subject at the beginning of the exposure. This lights up your subject, but darkens the background and blacks out detail. Using the Second (Rear) Curtain setting\u2013available on most dSLRs\u2013two flashes are fired: one at the beginning of the exposure after which the first curtain of the shutter closes; and another at the end right before the second curtain closes. Since there&amp;#039;s a short period of time between the two flashes, the subject will be frozen in the shot, while the background details blur into movement-suggesting trails.  How It&amp;#039;s Done The effect is typically found under the flash control settings in your SLR and can only be adjusted when a flash is connected to the camera. When using Second Curtain Sync, you&amp;#039;ll want a slow shutter speed to create the effect\u2014we suggest at least one fiftieth of a second or slower. (Some cameras will default to standard First Curtain Sync if they&amp;#039;re set to one sixtieth or faster.) We&amp;#039;ve found this technique to be particularly effective when shooting flash photos of moving people\u2013dancers or musicians are great subjects, for instance\u2014in dark settings with interesting backgrounds, including some type of rear lighting. Though Second Curtain Sync results are not easy to predict\u2014you&amp;#039;ll probably get as many duds as winners\u2014when it works right, the look can be amazing. Infrared Photography  Photo by Dan Havlik What It Is In infrared photography, a modified digital sensor or special infrared film is used to capture otherworldly black-and-white or color images. Since the special sensor or film is sensitive to the infrared spectrum of light, captured images can have false color or strange black-and-white effects. In black-and-white infrared photography, trees turn ghostly white while skies become menacingly black. In color infrared photography, the look is even more dramatic with green leaves taking on an orange autumnal cast, and blue skies transforming into hazy pink hues. This surreal look was popular in the 1960s, particularly for the album covers of psychedelic rock bands. Today, art and landscape photographers love its mind-bending effect. How It&amp;#039;s Done Though infrared film can still be found at some retailers and online sites, it&amp;#039;s slowly being discontinued because it&amp;#039;s expensive to produce and has only a small (if devoted) audience. The same holds true for digital cameras with infrared-sensitive sensors. The only company to recently mass-produce infrared cameras is Fujifilm, which released an all-in-one model, the FinePix IS Pro, in 2007. But that camera was recently discontinued. Several years ago, Fuji also produced an infrared digital SLR but it was only sold in limited quantities, mostly to law enforcement officers who used it to photograph evidence. There are also several services on the Internet that will convert your camera to an infrared model or give you the tools to do it yourself. If you get your hands on an infrared camera or on some infrared film, the best subject matter to photograph are trees and foliage, since they do the best job of reflecting infrared light. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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