<http://schema.org/articleBody>
"  Photo: PatrickMcMullan.com Dawn Goldworm, the no-nonsense scent director of 12.29, the NYC-based olfactive branding company she and twin sister Samantha launched in 2009, smells in color. &amp;quot;This one&amp;#039;s green,&amp;quot; she says while handing me a paper stick dampened with one of the myriad fragrances she&amp;#039;s concocted for Prabal Gurung&amp;#039;s spring 2014 runway show. We&amp;#039;re seated in a sparse conference room located off Gurung&amp;#039;s Garment District showroom, and perhaps because the FLOTUS-beloved designer is showing in less than three days, the office is imbued with a focused hush. &amp;quot;He said he was looking to embody an idea of &amp;#039;beauty with just enough bite,&amp;#039;&amp;quot; she says of their initial meeting. &amp;quot;He showed us a picture of a girl wearing a chiffon gown\u2014quite long, beautifully draped, and delicate\u2014with a harness in the back. To me that harness indicated strength.&amp;quot; Goldworm encourages clients to use imagery, memories, and even metaphors to help create a custom scent, but dissuades them from suggesting perfume ingredients, like roses, as they can mean something different to everyone. With little more than the idea of the Prabal Gurung woman, Goldworm got to work on creating a variety of &amp;quot;pastel-colored&amp;quot; aromas whose top notes subverted any hallmark femininity. From hundreds of potions, the team whittled down the selection to a final three. And then, by way of an office-wide vote (even interns were consulted), a victor emerged. At today&amp;#039;s 12 p.m. show (read more here), Gurung&amp;#039;s intended &amp;quot;beauty with a bite&amp;quot; was apparent in sharply cut dresses that, when the models recessed, revealed details like a PVC appendage at the delicate base of the neck. It was that irreverence\u2014a bold mixing of classical feminine hues with just a hint of One Flew Over the Cuckoo&amp;#039;s Nest\u2014that rendered the aroma discreetly distilling from multiple ventilators just one of many elements charging the presentation. Subtlety, a near-subliminal signifier that you&amp;#039;ve stepped into a new reality, is the Goldworm trademark. And though the winning scent, a luscious Bulgarian rose roughed up with woody amber accents and textured animal notes, gently wafted around showgoers as they entered the iconic 8tth Avenue Post Office (this season&amp;#039;s preferred Lincoln Center alternative), it didn&amp;#039;t overwhelm but rather ebbed and flowed around the hangar-like space with the grace of a cat&amp;#039;s languid tail. &amp;quot;My expertise lies in making clothes. I have no delusion or pretense that I know their world,&amp;quot; says Gurung, who despite the mounting pressure of putting on a show looked relaxed and well-rested in jeans, a whisper-thin t-shirt, and skater sneakers. &amp;quot;But life is an amalgamation of memories,&amp;quot; he says, pausing as the Goldworms simultaneously nod their Nordic-blond heads. &amp;quot;And I wanted to transport the audience somewhere else\u2014to a memory of their own.&amp;quot; Mission accomplished. See the spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear collections. See the spring 2014 Prabal Gurung Ready-to-Wear collection. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.elle.com/fashion/news/a23616/goldworm-sisters-for-prabal-gurung/>