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"           Scene and Herd: Izard, center, and her hip cooks and sous chefs. &amp;quot;I&amp;#039;m like their crazy older sister,&amp;quot; she says. It&amp;#039;s 11 A.M. on a Friday, an ungodly hour for chefs, bartenders, and rock stars, and 34-year-old Stephanie Izard\u2014chef and co-owner of Windy City restaurant-of-the-moment Girl &amp;amp;amp; the Goat\u2014happens to be all of the above, at least according to the sleepy-eyed, tattooed twentysomething cooks and sous chefs who surround her like groupies. They&amp;#039;re swapping last night&amp;#039;s stories at a family-style table in the cavernous, rustic-chic space, laughing in unison and, even at this time of day, sipping Brooklyn Lager. &amp;quot;It&amp;#039;s Girl &amp;amp;amp; the Goat,&amp;quot; says Rachel, a cute cook wearing a neon-green head scarf. &amp;quot;There should always be beer.&amp;quot;          Last October, Chicago magazine labeled Connecticut-raised Izard a &amp;quot;notorious party girl.&amp;quot; Yes, during our shoot, she did whip out an iPhone to prove she won a chugging contest at this year&amp;#039;s Aspen Food &amp;amp;amp; Wine Classic. And yes, she initially wanted to call the place The Drunken Goat\u2014izard is the name of a Pyrenees mountain variety. But she rolls her eyes at suggestions that she&amp;#039;s anything less than punctilious\u2014most days she&amp;#039;s up at 6 a.m. to swim before arriving at work by nine, and more to the point, she&amp;#039;s received a James Beard Best New Restaurant nod and a spot on F&amp;amp;amp;W&amp;#039;sBest New Chefs list. Those kinds of accolades aren&amp;#039;t earned just by having a well-stocked bar, even if hers happens to be swarmed by customers and spectacularly hewn of French oak. Instead, it&amp;#039;s her &amp;quot;making your whole mouth happy&amp;quot; food philosophy, fearless menu (goat legs are available by preorder), and unflappable focus (she interviewed more than 1,000 applicants for 30 front-of-house gigs) that are winning praise. Now she finds herself in a chef-versus-celebrity tug-of-war (she graciously obliges diners who recognize her from Top Chef and ask for pictures during dinner); Vampire Weekend vies for reservations (&amp;quot;All my cooks were like, &amp;#039;Yeah!&amp;#039; and I was like, &amp;#039;I don&amp;#039;t even know what that means&amp;#039;\u2009&amp;quot;); and even Gwyneth GOOPed about her &amp;quot;unexpected and bold flavors.&amp;quot; Izard&amp;#039;s first restaurant job was hostessing an Olive Garden in Ann Arbor, Michigan\u00AD\u2014&amp;quot;Everyone should work in the service industry at some point; it teaches you to tip,&amp;quot; she jokes\u2014then she enrolled in Le Cordon Bleu. Three years ago, Izard shuttered her first Chicago endeavor, the well-liked Scylla, and then had us drooling on our remotes as she won Bravo&amp;#039;s Survivor-in-the-kitchen reality show Top Chef. (She&amp;#039;s the only woman to have done so in eight seasons.) Ever since, she&amp;#039;s been transforming a stretch of Chicago&amp;#039;s Randolph Street into a Goat empire: A neighboring butcher shop started stocking goat meat after G&amp;amp;amp;TG&amp;#039;s 2010 debut, and early next year, Izard will open a bakery/diner, Little Goat, across the street. &amp;quot;She has a very serious point of view,&amp;quot; Tom Colicchio, Top Chef head judge and restaurant kingpin, says. &amp;quot;It&amp;#039;s in your face, like, &amp;#039;This is what I do, and if you don&amp;#039;t like it, too bad.&amp;#039; And she conveys that in her food.&amp;quot; On the locally sourced, small-plates menu, the most popular orders (such as saut\u00E9ed green beans or grilled broccoli) tend to be the simplest. Except, that is, for the wood-oven-roasted pig face, a dish that whimsically ups the nose-to-tail stakes with tender pork visage and tongue rolled into a sausage, braised overnight, sliced, then pan-roasted and served with a sunny-side-up egg and potato sticks over a mapley sauce. It&amp;#039;s the best breakfast you&amp;#039;ll ever eat for dinner. And it tastes great with a beer. Cookbook out October 5th.  SWEET-AND-SOUR EGGPLANT WITH TOMATILLOS Serves 4 Ingredients: 1 Japanese eggplant 2 tbsp olive oil 1 c finely diced onion 2 garlic cloves, minced Salt and pepper 1/2 fresh poblano pepper, thinly sliced 2 c diced fresh tomatillos 1 c grape tomatoes, halved 2 tbsp sugar 2 tbsp white wine 1 tbsp champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar Directions: 1. Cut the eggplant lengthwise and then crosswise in 1/2-inch half-moons. 2. Heat a large saut\u00E9 pan over medium-low heat. Add the olive oil, then the onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. 3. Increase the heat to medium high, add the poblano pepper, and cook until softened, 2 minutes more. 4. Add the eggplant, tomatillos, and tomatoes, and stir to thoroughly coat the vegetables with the oil. Cook until the vegetables start to soften, about 3 minutes more. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then add the sugar, wine, and vinegar. Cook for 3 minutes, then reduce the heat to medium low. Continue cooking until the liquid is absorbed by the vegetables and they have broken down and softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool. Serve at room temperature.  BRAISED LAMB SHANKS Serves 4 Ingredients: 4 lb bone-in lamb shank Salt and pepper 2 tbsp olive oil 1 large onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 2 tsp fennel seed, toasted 2 tsp yellow mustard seed 2 tbsp tomato paste 1 c dry red wine 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1/4 c dry sherry 5 c dark chicken stock (veal or beef stock will work too) Directions: 1. Season lamb all over with salt and pepper. 2. In a large Dutch oven or heavy pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Cook lamb until golden, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. 3. Add onion, garlic, fennel seed, mustard seed, and tomato paste to pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Deglaze pot with wine, and cook until liquid has mostly evaporated. 4.  Add vinegar, Worcestershire, sherry, and stock, and bring to a simmer. Return lamb to pot, reduce heat, and cover. 5.  Simmer until lamb is tender and falling off bones, 3 to 4 hours. 6.  Serve with romesco sauce, salsa verde, and naan. ROMESCO SAUCE 1 cup Ingredients: 4 Roma tomatoes, halved and seeded 8 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 2/3 c jarred piquillo peppers, drained 1/3 c raw hazelnuts 1/4 c olive oil 2 tsp sherry vinegar Directions: 1. Preheat oven to 350\u00B0F. On a large, rimmed baking sheet, toss tomatoes and garlic with half the olive oil and roast about 1 hour. 2.  Heat remaining oil in a skillet over medium heat, add hazelnuts, and stir occasionally, until lightly browned. 3. Transfer tomatoes, peppers, garlic, nuts, and oil to a large pot and simmer, about 30 minutes. 4. Transfer to a food processor along with vinegar, and process until smooth. 5. Season to taste with salt and pepper. SALSA VERDE 1 cup Ingredients: 1 bunch cilantro, stems removed 1/2 bunch parsley, stems removed 1 sprig basil 1 sprig mint 1/3 c canola oil 2 tbsp water 3 tsp Dijon mustard 4 tsp capers (in brine, unrinsed) 1 1/2 tsp sambal 2 tsp honey Salt, to taste Directions: 1. In a blender, add half of the herbs and half the oil. 2.  Pulse until blended. If too thick, add some water until it purees. 3.  Add the rest of the ingredients. 4. Blend until incorporated and pureed, but not totally smooth. GRILLED NAAN 5 pieces Ingredients: 1 1/2 tsp yeast 3/4 c water 1 1/2 c bread flour 1/3 c yogurt 2 1/2 tbsp brown butter 3 1/2 tsp honey 1 1/2 tsp salt Directions: 1.  Combine yeast and lukewarm (70\u201380\u00B0F) water for 10 minutes. 2.  Add bread flour, yogurt, brown butter, honey, and salt in a stand mixer with a dough hook. Mix for about 5 to 10 minutes on low. 3.  Combine until it passes the gluten window-pane test. (To do this, hold a small piece of dough between your thumbs and forefingers, and gently stretch until you make a square window pane. If the dough doesn&amp;#039;t tear, it&amp;#039;s ready to rise. If it does tear, mix for a few more minutes and try again.) 4. Let proof in a bowl covered in plastic wrap for 1 hour. 5. Portion into 4 1/2-ounce balls. 6. Let rise in a bowl covered in plastic wrap for 30 minutes. 7. Roll out into quarter-inch thick ovals on a lightly floured surface. 8. Brush with butter or animal fat. 9. Grill until scored, flaky, and cooked through.  PORK-FAT DONUTS Makes 18 donuts Ingredients: 1/2 tsp active dry yeast 1 tbsp warm water 1/3 c lukewarm milk 1/8 c sugar 1/4 tsp salt 1/2 egg, scrambled 2 tsp lard 1 1/4 c all-purpose flour 3 c peanut oil Sugar, for tossing Directions: 1.  Combine yeast and water in a small bowl. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. 2.  In a stand mixer with a dough hook, combine yeast-and-water mixture with milk, sugar, salt, eggs, lard, and half the flour. Slowly add remaining flour. Mix until dough pulls away from the sides. 3.  Transfer to a large, lightly oiled bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let rest at room temperature, 10 minutes. Transfer to refrigerator and let proof until dough size has doubled, about 2 hours. 4.  On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough 1/2 inch thick. Cut into 1 1/2-inch squares. 5. In a medium saucepan, heat peanut oil to 360\u00B0F. Fry donuts in batches until golden brown on both sides. Transfer to paper towels to drain. When cool, toss with sugar. Fill with ganache. GANACHE 3 cups Ingredients: 9 oz dark chocolate 7 1/2 oz milk chocolate 1 c heavy cream 1/2 c condensed milk 2 tbsp sugar 1/3 tsp salt 1 tbsp brewed coffee 1/3 tsp fresh yuzu juice (or substitute lime juice) Directions: 1.  Chop dark and milk chocolate and place in medium-size bowl. 2. Heat the cream, sugar, and coffee for 5 to 10 minutes until sugar dissolves. Do not boil. 3.  Pour mixture over chopped chocolate, and let it sit until melted. 4.  Add the salt, yuzu, and condensed milk. Stir with whisk. 5. Transfer ganache to a piping bag, and pipe into cooked donuts. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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