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" Working from minimalist portable kitchens set up on sidewalks and in alleys, Hanoi&amp;#039;s famous street vendors keep the city well fed. At noontime, many of the busiest cooks specialize in hefty bowls of b\u00FAn, the lean, light Vietnamese take on pasta salad. As fast food goes, b\u00FAn could hardly be more healthful: a heap of cool rice noodles, leafy greens and fresh herbs topped with a small amount of sizzling grilled meat and chopped peanuts. Diners add spoonfuls of the tart, tangy fat-free dressing, nuoc cham, and toss the ingredients together so that every bite delivers contrasting textures and tastes. Dried rice-stick noodles, as thin as angel hair pasta but more wiry, can be found in many supermarkets. They need only a brief soaking to remove surface starch followed by a minute or two in boiling water to become pliable. Thin-sliced pork scented with lemongrass is the conventional topping, but garlicky marinated shrimp is an alternative for seafood fans. For a crowd, arrange the fixings buffet-style and let guests put together their own bowls. Pass nuoc cham at the table, along with cold beer. RECIPES B\u00FAn (Rice Noodle Salad) 1/2 lb. dried rice-stick noodles, vermicelli width 4 large leaves red-leaf lettuce, torn in pieces 1/4 lb. bean sprouts 1/2 cup Asian basil leaves, coarsely torn, plus a few whole leaves for garnish 1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus a few whole leaves for garnish Grilled shrimp or lemongrass pork (recipes follow) 1/4 cup coarsely chopped roasted peanuts 2 scallions, quartered lengthwise, then cut in 1/2-inch lengths Pickled carrots and daikon (recipe follows) Nuoc cham (recipe follows) 1. Soak the noodles in warm water to cover for 15 minutes. Lift the noodles into a sieve, leaving the starchy water behind. Boil the noodles in a large pot of water for 1 1/2 minutes, then drain, rinse with cool water, shake dry and lay out on a clean towel to dry for at least 30 minutes. 2. Divide the lettuce, bean sprouts, basil and cilantro between two large, deep bowls. Break the noodles by hand into more manageable lengths and put half in each bowl; the noodles will be sticky but will separate when sauced. 3. Top with hot grilled shrimp or pork, then garnish each portion with whole basil and cilantro, peanuts and scallions. Serve immediately with pickled carrots and daikon and nuoc cham. Diners should spoon 3 to 4 tablespoons of nuoc cham over their noodles, add pickled vegetables to taste and toss well before eating. Serves 2. Grilled Shrimp 16 small shrimp, peeled 1 1/2 tsp. Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce 1 1/2 tsp. soy sauce 1 1/2 tsp. peanut oil 1 clove garlic, very finely minced 1/4 tsp. sugar 1. In a bowl, combine the shrimp, fish sauce, soy sauce, peanut oil, garlic and sugar. Toss well and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes. 2. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler or light a charcoal grill. Skewer the shrimp and grill until done. Serves 2.  Grilled Lemongrass Pork 6 oz. boneless pork shoulder, not too lean 3-inch piece of lemongrass, coarsely chopped 1 small shallot, sliced 1 small clove garlic 1 tsp. sugar 2 tsp. Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce 2 tsp. peanut oil Freshly ground black pepper 1. Slice the pork very thinly into strips about 3/4 inch wide and 2 to 3 inches long. Set aside. 2. Pulse the lemongrass, shallots, garlic and sugar to a paste in a small food processor, or pound to a paste in a mortar. Transfer to a bowl and stir in fish sauce, oil and a generous amount of black pepper. Add the pork, toss well and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes. 3. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler or light a charcoal fire. Grill the pork until well browned but still juicy. Serves 2.  Pickled Carrots and Daikon 1/4 lb. each carrots and daikon radish, peeled and cut into matchsticks 1 tsp. salt 2 tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 1/2 tsp. sugar Put the carrots and daikon in a sieve and toss with the salt. Let stand for 30 minutes to wilt the vegetables slightly. Rinse and pat dry. Transfer to a bowl, add the vinegar and sugar and toss to dissolve the sugar. Chill at least 1 hour. Serves 2.  Nuoc Cham 1 small fresh red chili 1 large clove garlic 2 tbsp. sugar Pulp from 1/2 lime (no membrane) 2 tbsp. lime juice 1/4 cup Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce 1/4 cup water Pulse chili, garlic and sugar to a paste in a small food processor, or pound to a paste in a mortar. Add lime pulp and process or pound. Transfer to a bowl and stir in lime juice, fish sauce and water. Makes 3/4 cup. For additional information view Cool Noodles February 2007 Resources "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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