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" Many years ago, my wife and I stayed at the historic Jefferson Hotel, when it resembled a place where they&amp;#039;d shoot a slasher movie, with a Norman Bates \u2014 like manager who told us he conversed with the ghosts who lived there. We passed on dinner. The place was almost razed in the 1980s, but it has been brought back to glorious life \u2014 all its marble columns and stained glass scrubbed to a majestic gloss, its public rooms to a genteel polish, and its restaurant, Lemaire, to a luster that has made it one of Virginia&amp;#039;s finest.  Chef Walter Bundy grew up along the Chesapeake, plucking crabs from the bay and tomatoes from the family garden, and later applying those experiences to his cooking at the French Laundry, under Thomas Keller. Now, with the reopening of Lemaire, Bundy is pouring everything he knows and loves into dishes like sweet-tangy fried green tomatoes showered with Gulf lump crabmeat, sherry vinegar, and verbena \u2014 proof yet again that southern cooking long ago moved past Paula Deen&amp;#039;s &amp;quot;Y&amp;#039;all want s&amp;#039;more gree-uts?&amp;quot; Further evidence: a cream of Vidalia onion soup with applewood-smoked bacon laced with cr\u00E8me fra\u00EEche, and seared sea scallops with Carolina rice &amp;quot;grits&amp;quot; and spicy saffron-tomato broth. Southerners can get overly proprietary about their food \u2014 that nobody-north-of-Virginia-can-make-grits attitude. Those folks had better hope Walter Bundy doesn&amp;#039;t open a restaurant in New York: He would blow the myth to smithereens. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/reviews/a6533/lemaire-richmond/>