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"Leave it to the French to create the ultimate ham-and-cheese sandwich. The croque-monsieur was first served at the beginning of the 20th century\u2014according to legend, in 1910 at a caf\u00E9 on Paris&amp;#039;s Boulevard des Capucines. The burgeoning middle class was just beginning to embrace the caf\u00E9 as a respectable place to gather for coffee, cigarettes, a glass of wine, and light snacks, and it soon became a neighborhood essential. It didn&amp;#039;t take long for the croque-monsieur to become a classic as well, along with its mate, the croque-madame, the same sandwich with a lightly fried egg (sunny-side up) on top. I ate my first one as a kid in Lyon, long before I ever made it to the caf\u00E9s of Paris.  The sandwich couldn&amp;#039;t be simpler\u2014white bread, ham, grated Gruy\u00E8re, and the secret ingredient, b\u00E9chamel, which adds moisture and richness. But because it is so simple, the quality of the ingredients is crucial. Use very good cheese, and ham that&amp;#039;s cooked but not cured (which would be too salty)\u2014French-style ham is best.  It is important that the bread not be too soft, so the b\u00E9chamel doesn&amp;#039;t make it soggy. I like to leave the bread out the day before, turning it over once so both sides dry evenly. Or toast it lightly, but watch that the bread doesn&amp;#039;t change color.  Both monsieur and madame are ideal for a late supper, light lunch, or a weekend brunch. I like to serve them alongside a salad with radishes tossed with a dressing of walnut oil, sherry vinegar, and minced shallots. Or cut the sandwich into squares and serve at cocktail parties. Kids love croque-monsieurs, too.  Italians have panini with prosciutto, the Dutch have tosti, and Americans have their grilled cheese. But I don&amp;#039;t think I am biased in saying croque-monsieur and -madame are the most delicious of all. What to Drink Make serving croque-monsieur more of an occasion, says Daniel Johnnes, the wine director of Daniel Boulud&amp;#039;s restaurants, by pairing it with Champagne or another sparkling wine. &amp;quot;They have enough body to stand up to this rich dish,&amp;quot; he says. He suggests Daniel Boulud&amp;#039;s Grand Cru Champagne ($50). &amp;quot;It&amp;#039;s made with a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes, and its bright acidity will refreshingly balance the b\u00E9chamel and cheese.&amp;quot; His other choices are a Cr\u00E9mant du Jura from Domaine Andr\u00E9 et Mireille Tissot ($23) or a Cr\u00E9mant d&amp;#039;Alsace Brut Ros\u00E9 from Lucien Albrecht ($19), which has a little more presence. &amp;quot;Both are superb Champagne alternatives,&amp;quot; he says. Click here to see the recipe Croque-Monsieur or -Madame. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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