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" Ralph Lauren In the span of a single collection, the reigning king of Americana careens from the earthy styles of a Scottish shooting party -- all waxed jackets, tweed pants, and flannel shirts -- to the slick urban edge of a four-pocket leather jacket. He also unveils a tighter, leaner silhouette to his suits, suggesting that even after forty years in business, Lauren still likes to shake things up every once in a while. On Don Cheadle: Leather jacket ($2,495), cashmere sweater ($725), and wool trousers ($395) by Ralph Lauren Black Label; leather shoes ($1,100) by Santoni.  Dolce &amp;amp;amp; Gabbana Astronaut-inspired snowsuits. Gold overcoats. Miles of shiny fabrics. Such is Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana&amp;#039;s polished, futuristic vision for fall, and though the snowsuits and coats aren&amp;#039;t exactly the most versatile attire, these tightly tailored party suits with iridescent sheens are a different story.  On Don Cheadle: One-button wool suit ($2,265) and cotton shirt ($515) by Dolce &amp;amp;amp; Gabbana; patent-leather shoes ($495) by Cesare Paciotti. On Chiwetel Ejiofor: Two-button wool jacket with leather piping ($2,265), cotton shirt ($435), silk tie ($160), and wool trousers ($515) by Dolce &amp;amp;amp; Gabbana; leather shoes ($495) by Moreschi.  Burburry Prorsum  For most designers, military style is a passing whim; for Burberry creative director Christopher Bailey, it&amp;#039;s part of his company&amp;#039;s DNA. Dominating the fall collection are sharply cut trench and overcoats, their collars wide and their buttons large and gleaming, all layered on top of oversized sweaters that are anything but standard issue. Felted-wool military greatcoat ($2,495) and merino-wool-and-silk sweater ($595) by Burberry Prorsum.   Prada Miuccia Prada has seen the future of men&amp;#039;s wear, and it is fuzzy. Angora, wool, cashmere -- Prada&amp;#039;s collection bulges with fuzzy sweaters. She also continues to explore innovative fabrics: This jacket morphs gradually -- in a single piece of cloth -- from pure wool into pure silk and bridges the divide between office and cocktail attire. Three-button wool-and-silk jacket ($2,490), cotton shirt ($415), and gabardine trousers ($660) by Prada.  Giorgio Armani  Giorgio Armani makes impeccably tailored suits: This much we all know. That he continues to make clothing that&amp;#039;s fresh and relevant, though, by incorporating fabrics like velvet and suede and adding unexpected touches -- e.g., a sweater-vest paired with a chalk-stripe suit -- is all the more remarkable. One-button wool suit ($3,150), viscose-and-silk vest ($1,195), cotton shirt ($395), and silk tie ($135) by Giorgio Armani.   Louis Vuitton  Working under lead designer Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton men&amp;#039;s-wear designer Paul Helbers has edged the house in a sharp new direction. For fall, Helbers mixes sleek eighties style with luxurious fabrics -- see this wool overcoat with grosgrain detailing -- while peppering dark urban clothing with colors and patterns. Wool overcoat, cotton shirt ($606), and cotton gabardine trousers ($697) by Louis Vuitton; leather shoes ($795) by Church&amp;#039;s.   Calvin Klein The latest offerings from Calvin Klein designer Italo Zucchelli come in more shades of gray than any moral relativist could imagine. Stainless steel, gunmetal, ash, charcoal -- all the subtle variations are here, cut in roomy proportions and offset with bursts of blue and yellow. On Chiwetel Ejiofor: Wool-and-cashmere overcoat ($1,395) and cotton-and-fleece sweatshirt ($530) by Calvin Klein Collection. Bottega Veneta For designer Tomas Maier, luxury begins and ends with simplicity. His fall collection brims with trim three-piece flannel suits and overcoats, but this wide-neck, thick-cable wool sweater offers a more casual alternative to the sober aesthetic.  On Don Cheadle: Wool sweater ($830) and cotton shirt ($780) by Bottega Veneta.  Gucci  Under creative director Frida Giannini, Gucci presents a collection for men who have not yet heard about global warming. Layering wool over cashmere and adding a dollop of fur or leather here and there, Giannini offers close-fitting plaid suits in reds and blues as well as plush suede and velvet overcoats. The result is a sly, sophisticated take on alpine luxury. Two-button wool suit ($1,840), cotton shirt ($310), and silk tie ($160) by Gucci.   Versace Maybe it was the predominance of high-buttoning black suits and crisp white collars, but Donatella Versace&amp;#039;s latest collection has a decidedly sober, vaguely clerical feel to it. It&amp;#039;s serious clothing for serious times, but Versace proves up to the task, and her eye for detail -- check out the piping and covered buttons on this sheepskin coat -- remains as sharp as ever. Sheepskin coat ($5,650) by Versace, leather gloves ($250) by Versace Jeans Couture. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/style/a3152/fashion0807/>