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"Insider's Guide to Beirut\nLebanese decorator May Daouk takes AD design editor Howard Christian on an insider's tour of the buzzy Mediterranean capital\nOur first stop was the National Museum, and what a treasure it is. Housed in an unbelievably beautiful building, completed in 1937, the museum features an entry with enormous neo-Egyptian columns that gives way to a well-defined and serene interior. The collections, which span from prehistory to the 16th century, is judiciously arranged and wonderfully lit. The museum closed in 1975, at the onset of the war, and was badly damaged during the fighting. After being painstakingly restored, it reopened in the late 1990s. beirutnationalmuseum.com\nNathalie Khayat is a Lebanese ceramist of enormous talent whose work ranges from unique, often intricate art pieces to more utilitarian, though highly original tableware and vessels. When we dropped by her studio (she accepts visitors by appointment), we found a selection of otherworldly works inspired by images of microscopic seeds and seed casings. We were inspired. 011-961-375-1555; nathaliekhayat.com\nAt Interiors, a smart home-wares shop owned by designer Alya Tannous, we discovered a lovely selection of handblown glass vessels from Syria, Egypt, and Europe. I was taken with a group of delicate amber tumblers, candlesticks, and especially the compotes, which I imagined filled with kibbe, the delicious meat croquettes May served us during our shoot (hers were out of this world). Another favorite at Interiors was a very clean-lined and contemporary iron-and-wood slatted chair by Majd Bazerji. Not only comfortable, it features a back that folds down into a small, useful table. Hermitage Bldg., Ghandour el Saad St.; 011-961-121-6641\nI had heard a lot about the Beirut Art Center (BAC) and was eager to see it. Opened in early 2009, BAC is a nonprofit contemporary art space located in a former industrial building. In addition to the main exhibition gallery, screening and performance room, and bookshop, there's an upper-level area devoted to BAC Design, a program for showing\u2014and selling\u2014works by local artisans. When we visited, pieces by Karim Chaya, the founder of SpockDesign, were on view in a show called \"Beirut Rock Center,\" part of his ongoing exploration of rocking chair forms. All of the pieces were conceived specifically for BAC. We loved them. beirutartcenter.org\nExhausted yet? Perhaps it's time for a little lift. May introduced us to and spoiled us with Al Rifai Roastery's addictive pistachios. This company has been in Beirut since 1948 and now has stores all over town, where they offer other nut varieties and dried fruits\u2014but oh, those pistachios (alrifai.com). May further indulged us with the most outrageously good Arabic pastries from Amal Bohsali (founded in 1878), with a few locations in Beirut. Not really a sweets person, I relented when May insisted, and the angels sang. My favorite was the kol wa shkor, a small, rounded pastry with pistachio filling whose name May explained translates as \"eat and give thanks.\" I did. abohsali.com.lb\nKaren Chekerdjian runs a wonderful design shop in the Beirut Port neighborhood. The rule here is that everything is made locally\u2014and beautifully. Serving pieces, kitchen wares, linens, glasses, and furniture are all crafted to her specifications with an updated take on traditional design. I came away with fine cotton hand towels embroidered with Arabic calligraphy in metallic threads, as well as little handblown glasses in a beautiful shade of blue that will be so lovely back home, filled with a cold beverage I am fond of... Fayad Bldg., Derviche Haddad St.; 011-961-157-0572; karenchekerdjian.com\nOur final stop was at Orient 499. This emporium has been around for about six years and is owned by Aida Kawas and Frank Luca. They have recently expanded, very handsomely, and are now carrying men's and children's clothing in addition to women's clothing and jewelry, home accessories, and furniture. I wanted everything. Beautiful textures, superb quality, whimsy. I am now the proud owner of a gorgeous abaya (a traditional robe). Instead of the usual rather drab fabric, mine is made of a superfine pinstripe gray wool, with a bit of frogging, two tassels\u2014bingo. I asked May if locals would think me a lunatic American if I wore it around town. May's half-smile politely answered my question. 499 Omar Daouk St., Hammoud Bldg.; 011-961-136-9499; orient499.com"^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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