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"  I&amp;#039;ve always loved the idea of a large garden filled with colorful flowers and luscious vegetables. But it always turns out to be too much work. Avid gardeners tell me that I&amp;#039;m missing the point, but spending weeks on my hands and knees yanking weeds and swatting away bugs isn&amp;#039;t my idea of fun. Then I discovered container gardening, the popular practice of planting in pots, trays, window boxes and other portable containers. What makes this appealing to me\u2014and millions of others\u2014is that it requires very little space and a minimal commitment of time. Plus, you&amp;#039;ll never end up with mud in your shoes\u2014or shorts (don&amp;#039;t ask). This planter trellis is my favorite container-gardening project. While it&amp;#039;s designed for climbing vines such as clematis, nasturtium, pole beans or Boston ivy, it also makes an attractive privacy screen for a deck and can hide a pool pump or a propane tank. You could build it out of pressure-treated lumber, but we chose red cedar. This wood is easy to work with, and it takes stain beautifully. It should last for many years with little maintenance, so you can spend more time gardening and less time maintaining. Here&amp;#039;s how to build it. Trellis Planter Plans (PDF, 1MB, requires Adobe Reader) Construction and Materials Notes:   Parts Being Fastened Lattice Upright to Upper Box  Lattice Upright to Lower Box Tongue-and-Groove Panel Pieces to Horizontal Trim Cleats to Front and Rear Box Panels Front and Rear Box Panels to Side Panels  Slats in Bottom of Box to Cleats Front and Rear Box Rim to Side Box Rim Box Rim to Front, Rear and Side Panels Lattice Upright to Lattice Crossbar  Upper Lattice Crossbar to Lattice Upright  Trim Cap on Lattice Frame to Upper Lattice Crossbar   Fasteners \u00BC&amp;quot;-dia 3\u00BD&amp;quot; galvanized carriage bolts \u00BC&amp;quot;-dia 3&amp;quot; galvanized carriage bolts 1\u00BC&amp;quot; pneumatic finish nails 2\u00BD&amp;quot; decking screws 2\u00BD&amp;quot; exterior-grade trim-head screws 1\u00BC&amp;quot; pneumatic finish nails 1\u00BC&amp;quot; coarse-thread pocket screws 2\u00BD&amp;quot; pneumatic finish nails 2\u00BD&amp;quot; exterior-grade trim-head screws 2\u00BD&amp;quot; exterior-grade trim-head screws 1\u00BC&amp;quot; pneumatic finish nails   Direction of Fasteners Through horizontal trim on back panel, through lattice upright Through back of box, then through lattice upright Through inside face of panels into trim Through cleat into inside face of front and rear panels (seven screws per cleat) Through horizontal box trim on front and rear panels into horizontal box trim on side panels (four screws per corner) Through slats into cleats (six nails per slat) Through side rim into front and rear rims (two screws per joint, eight total) Through rim into panels Through side of lattice upright into end of lattice crossbar (two screws per side, four total) Through top of crossbar into end of lattice upright (two screws per joint, four total) Through top of trim cap into horizontal frame    34 1&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 14&amp;quot; cedar tongue and groove (box panel) 2 1&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 31&amp;quot; cedar (box trim) 2 1&amp;quot; x 3&amp;quot; x 31&amp;quot; cedar (box trim) 2 1&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 17\u00BD&amp;quot; cedar (box trim) 2 1&amp;quot; x 3&amp;quot; x 17\u00BD&amp;quot; cedar (box trim) 2 2&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 28&amp;quot; cedar (cleat) 7 1&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 17\u00BD&amp;quot; cedar (bottom slat) 2 1&amp;quot; x 3&amp;quot; x 33&amp;quot; cedar (rim, front/back) 2 1&amp;quot; x 3&amp;quot; x 17\u00BD&amp;quot; cedar (rim, side) 2 2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot; x 58\u00BD&amp;quot; cedar (lattice upright) 1 2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot; x 25\u00BC&amp;quot; cedar (lattice crossbar, lower) 1 2&amp;quot; x 2&amp;quot; x 28\u00BC&amp;quot; cedar (lattice crossbar, upper) 1 1&amp;quot; x 4&amp;quot; x 29\u00BE&amp;quot; cedar (lattice trim cap)*  1 \u00BD&amp;quot; x 26&amp;quot; x 47\u00BE&amp;quot; cedar (lattice)  Step 1: Building the Box  Begin by crosscutting the 1 x 4 tongue-and-groove cedar that is used for the planter box. I made gang cuts using a compound miter saw with a stop clamped to its fence. This method ensures all the parts are \u00ADaccurately cut to the same dimension. Lacking a miter saw, you could carefully\u00AD measure, mark and cut the parts \u00ADfreehand with a circular saw using a crosscut guide. I also crosscut the cleats that the planter rests on and the \u00ADhorizontal trim to which the tongue-and-groove pieces are nailed. Step 2: Building the Box  Use exterior-grade glue and 1\u00BC-inch finish nails to assemble the planter box panels. Fasten the tongue-and-groove pieces to the horizontal trim using a pneumatic finish nailer. Position the rough-sawn surface of the tongue-and-groove pieces so they face the outside of the planter box and face-nail through the back of each piece into the trim. If you don&amp;#039;t have pneumatic tools, use glue and 3d hot-dipped galvanized \u00ADfinish nails. Step 3: Building the Box  Next, fasten the cleats to the front and back panels using 2\u00BD-inch decking screws. Note that the bottom of the cleats is not flush with the bottom of the panels but is offset by 1 inch. Step 4: Building the Box  With the panels completed, assemble the planter box by attaching the panels to each other. Drill pilot holes, then drive 2\u00BD-inch trim-head screws through the front into the side panels. Do the same to attach the back to the sides. Once the box is built, lay the bottom slats in and fasten them to the cleats with 1\u00BC-inch nails. Step 5: Building the Box  The planter box rim consists of four 1 x 3 pieces joined with pocket screws. Crosscut the pieces, bore the holes into them, and join the pieces with 1\u00BC-inch coarse-thread pocket screws. Place the completed rim on the box with an equal overhang. Fasten the rim to the top of the box with 2\u00BD-inch pneumatic nails or 8d galvanized finish nails. Step 6: Add the Lattice  The lattice frame is simple to build, but you should note that the frame&amp;#039;s groove is handled three different ways. In the top horizontal frame member, the groove is stopped at both ends. In the bottom horizontal member, the groove runs out both ends. In the two vertical frame members, the groove runs out the top and is stopped at the joint where the part meets the horizontal frame member. Crosscut the frame members, and cut the grooves into the pieces using a dado blade in the table saw. To cut a stopped groove, make a registration mark on the side of the workpiece that indicates where the groove stops. \u00ADLikewise, with the dado blade raised to the depth of the groove, mark the diameter of the saw blade on the saw table (the position of the front tooth and the back tooth). Stop cutting a groove when the registration marks are aligned. If you&amp;#039;re experienced with a table saw, you can begin a stopped groove by carefully pivoting the \u00ADworkpiece down along the side of the fence and onto the dado blade (known as a plunge cut). If the thought of that makes you uneasy, align the \u00ADregis\u00ADtration marks and raise the blade into the workpiece. Square off the end of a stopped groove using a chisel. Step 7: Add the Lattice  With the frame parts grooved, \u00ADfasten the sides and bottom pieces together using 2\u00BD-inch trim-head screws. Step 8: Add the Lattice  Cut the lattice to length using a fine-tooth metal-cutting blade in a jigsaw. This reduces the likelihood of cracking or splintering one of the \u00ADlattice slats. Slide the lattice into the groove and fasten the crossbar. Attach the cap on top of the lattice frame. Finally, clamp the lattice assembly to the planter box and bore the bolt holes for mounting the frame, then bolt the lattice to the box. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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