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" There are grilled cheeses far and wide, for good reason. Many of them are good. Some, great. For April, Grilled Cheese Month, we&amp;#039;ll be trying grilled cheeses from all over, and dispensing a little wisdom along the way. Grilled Cheese with Short Ribs ($12) The Foundry, 7465 Melrose Ave, Los Angeles Los Angeles is flooded with food trucks, pop-ups, farmers markets, and stinky fine cheese shops claiming to hold the secret to a perfect grilled cheese. But any time I&amp;#039;m asked to spend $12 on one, I believe they&amp;#039;ve missed the point, instead creating a pretentious panino. Chef Eric Greenspan&amp;#039;s grilled cheese at the Foundry on Melrose, said by many to be the best in L.A., comes across much the same way: short rib and tellagio cheese presented on toasted raisin bread lightly brushed with apricot-caper puree. It&amp;#039;s his attempt to synthesize all the elements that make the cheese plate king. All in one bite, I realized I had brutally underestimated Greenspan&amp;#039;s knowledge of what it means to eat a grilled cheese. The tender, slow-cooked short rib melted with the tellagio until there was no distinction between the two, and the butter-slathered bread holding it remained both crispy and soft. The fruit additions cut through a bit of the fat and were just light enough to round out the flavor. I accepted the defeat of my grilled-cheese assumptions, even as I imagined my lovely mother and her tub of margarine holding court in the kitchen. Cheese: 9 Texture: 10 Originality: 9 Intangible Grilled-Cheese Essence: 9 Final Score: 37 out of 40 "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/food/a22341/grilled-cheese-foundry-los-angeles/>