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" Providence When a recession collides with one of the easiest businesses to bankrupt even in good times, the demise of the mom-and-pop restaurant is one of the sorrier effects. So you&amp;#039;ve got to applaud the sheer effort of chef Nemo Bolin and his wife, Jenny, in opening a modest place without the slightest pretense that they want to do anything more than cook wonderful, personalized food. Let&amp;#039;s let them tell it in their words: &amp;quot;The roots of both joy and agony come from the same place. The complete emotional, financial, and physical dedication to our business is the reason we are able to relish when a guest raves or when we read a positive review. We can say proudly that we deserve it because we work our asses off, and we live to hear that unmistakable sigh when someone takes the first bite of their meal and just melts into their chair. It is an immeasurable asset to have the strength that comes from a true partnership. Our son will grow up knowing where his food comes from, how it got to his plate, a greater appreciation for the intense labor involved in local farming, and, of course, the importance of obtaining meat from people who raise and slaughter animals humanely. We don&amp;#039;t just care that our food tastes good; we care about the people, the animals, and the plants that made it possible.&amp;quot; Very sweet. Now, to actually taste what they&amp;#039;re talking about, order a side of peas with Nemo&amp;#039;s roasted bone marrow with pickled shallots and country bread. You&amp;#039;ll never taste better.  959 Hope Street; 401-273-7275; cookandbrown.com "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/reviews/a8695/cook-and-brown-providence-1110/>