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" If you&amp;#039;re looking for a project that enhances your outdoor environment, the easy answer is a deck or patio. If, however, you want something just a little more captivating\u2013a subtle focal point for your garden or yard that accents your landscape rather than covering it up, we have a few ideas for you. Made of solid redwood, our garden gateway features four distinct designs\u2013trellis, gate, fence and bench. Each element complements the others so that, taken together, they provide a cohesive assembly of form and function. However, each component is also a stand-alone project capable of solving specific design problems in varied settings. You might just build the fence, for example, as a divider between your lot and your neighbor&amp;#039;s. Or the trellis, by itself, might serve as a focus for a garden sitting area. The gate is entirely appropriate for use on a pathway between shrubs or hedges, and the bench design will work in any yard setting and could be incorporated into an existing deck. The drawing on the following pages shows construction details and dimensions for the garden gateway as shown in the photographs. Depending on your requirements, you may need to vary these details. As for material choices, redwood is ideal because it combines durability, strength, decay resistance and good looks. Our wrought-iron hardware was custom-made. One good source for similar accessories is Whitechapel Ltd., P.O. Box 136, Wilson, WY 83014.  Viewed from inside the garden, the fence, gate, trellis and bench define the area and provide contrast to the surrounding growth and ground cover.  The Trellis The trellis is held in place by metal brackets embedded in round concrete footings. The brackets, also called post bases, come in a variety of sizes and shapes to suit different requirements. Buy brackets designed to support 6 x 6 stock about 1 in. above the ground, to prevent surface moisture from damaging the wood. The bottom half of each bracket is embedded in a concrete footing.  Dig the hole for each footing several inches deeper than the frost line in your area. Cut two 12-in.-dia. concrete tube forms, available at building suppliers, to fit the holes. Place each tube in its hole, plumb the tubes and backfill the holes. Add a few inches of gravel into the bottom of each tube and then pour concrete to the top. Embed each post base into the concrete and plumb the brackets.  Before erecting the 6 x 6s, cut each piece slightly oversize in length. Temporarily install the posts in the brackets, check that they&amp;#039;re plumb and mark the finished height on one post, plus 2 in. for the post tenon. Use a line level to carry this height to the other post, then remove the posts and cut them to length. Lay out the tenons for joining the posts to the two 4 x 8 beams. Use a circular saw to cut the tenon shoulders as shown in Detail 1. Adjust the depth-of-cut to 2 in. and cut in from the end of the stock to remove the tenon waste.  Cut the 4 x 8 beams to exact length and lay out the pyramid shape on all four faces of each end of both pieces. The beveled cuts are too deep for a 7 1/4-in. circular saw to complete. Therefore, cut these with a handsaw and smooth the triangular faces with a plane. Then lay out the mortises to match the tenons in the post ends. Remove most of the waste with a router and finish the mortises with a chisel.  Replace the posts in the brackets, bore lagscrew holes in the beams, place each beam on a post and thread the lagscrews in. Cut the five 4 x 4 members to exact length and trim the pyramid shapes as shown. Bore two lagscrew clearance holes in each 4 x 4. Position each piece on the 4 x 8 beams, bore lagscrew pilot holes and install the lagscrews. Finally, cut 2 x 2s to length for the two remaining trellis tiers. Bevel all ends and attach the 2 x 2s with 3-in. deck screws.  The Gate To begin the gate, first cut 2 x 10 stock to exact length for the bottom rails. Rail length equals the space between the stiles plus two tenon lengths (4 in.). Then cut the upper rails from 2 x 12 stock. Rip the two outer stiles to 5 in. wide. Crosscut these and the 2 x 4 inner stiles about 2 in. oversize in length.  Make a template of the gate curves and trace the lines on the top rail stock. Lay out and cut the double tenons on the bottom rails and the single tenons on the top rails. If you don&amp;#039;t have a table saw or radial-arm saw, cut the tenon shoulders with a circular saw, and finish the job with a handsaw and chisel.  Lay the pieces together and transfer the tenon locations to the stiles. Cut the mortises by hand or with a plunge router and edge guide. Cut them slightly deeper than the tenon length.  Use a 1/4-in. winged slot cutter, working from both faces of the rails, to cut the 1/2-in.-wide groove along the inside edges of the top and bottom rails. Dry assemble the gate frames and lay 2 x 2s along the frames, spaced 2 in. apart. Trace the inside curves of the upper rails on the 2 x 2s. Then, cut short tenons on the top ends of each 2 x 2 to match the rail curves as shown in Detail 3. With the tops cut, reposition the 2 x 2s and mark for cutting the square tenons that mate with the bottom rails.  Assemble the inner stile and two rails of both gate sides with a slow-setting waterproof glue. Install the 2 x 2s using 1/2-in.-thick x 2-in.-long spacers between each 2 x 2. Along the curves, allow the spacers to protrude and trim them flush after the glue has dried. With all the 2 x 2s in place, add the remaining stiles and clamp the assembly. Then, cut the stiles to exact length and shape.  The Fence If you&amp;#039;re building a fence without the trellis, consider using 4 x 4 posts rather than 6 x 6s. Begin by preparing concrete footings and post brackets as described in the trellis section. Cut all posts roughly to length, temporarily install them, level the tops and cut the beveled ends. Working from the leveled tops, measure down to lay out the three rail positions.  Cut rail mortises at the rail locations. With the posts in place and plumbed, measure post spacing and cut the rails to this length plus enough for a tenon at each end. After cutting the tenons, assemble the fence with waterproof glue and secure the posts to the brackets with bolts. Screw the 1 x 2 pickets to the rails, spacing them 2 in. apart.  The Bench Pour concrete footings with post brackets, as described for the trellis, and attach roughly 13 1/2-in.-long 6 x 6 bench posts to the brackets. Double-check that the post tops are level, and then use lagscrews to attach a 2 x 6 support to each 6 x 6, as shown. Install 2 x 4 seat boards across the supports and then frame the entire top with 2 x 4s on edge.    The asymmetrical gate opens wide when necessary. Featuring all-redwood construction, the gate, trellis and fence utilize stout mortise-and-tenon joinery. Concrete footings and metal brackets secure posts to ground.  The 60/40 split of the redwood double gate means that only one side needs to be opened to pass through. When more space is needed for moving equipment, both halves can be opened. Gate members are joined with mortise-and-tenon joints. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
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