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"  2012 was a tough year for fashion designers. Some of the biggest brands in the business \u2014 including juggernauts like Yves Saint Laurent, Jil Sander, and Perry Ellis \u2014 found their top creative position changing hands. But not so at Herm\u00E8s, where V\u00E9ronique Nichanian has overseen men&amp;#039;s-wear for the past 21 years. And for good reason. Under her guidance, the French house has greatly expanded its portfolio of luxuriously restrained apparel and accessories for men, so much so that Herm\u00E8s opened its first men&amp;#039;s-only flagship two years ago in NYC and recently announced the launch of a new custom clothing service. Safe to say: Nichanian knows her stuff. So, we caught up with the designer to talk about the state of the industry, the Herm\u00E8s made-to-measure program, and what she&amp;#039;s learned about the male psyche. Esquire.com: How has the customer changed since you began your career at Herm\u00E8s?  V\u00E9ronique Nichanian: Today, men are more and more confident and dare to express themselves with their clothing. I&amp;#039;ve learned that men have to be in harmony with themselves to choose their style. It&amp;#039;s really about personality. ESQ: What&amp;#039;s the biggest misconception that men have about dressing themselves? VN: When people think they have to follow trends, or fashion in general. They have to free themselves from any fashion dictate. ESQ: What are the three items every man should have in his closet? VN: A black cashmere sweater, a gray flannel suit, and a white poplin shirt. But a fourth would be an amazing leather piece \u2014 like a jacket, for instance. ESQ: Tell us a little bit about the Herm\u00E8s made-to-measure and bespoke programs. VN: Customers can come and speak with a tailor about the fit they like. Then the customer will be able to choose from 5,000 fabrics and have a suit made to their individual specifications. It takes 30 measurements and 70 to 80 hours of work in the atelier to have a suit made. What&amp;#039;s special about Herm\u00E8s, though, is that you can also ask for custom leather and knit pieces, too. We can even create something in a specific color at a customer&amp;#039;s request.  ESQ: How do you, as a woman, approach designing for men? VN: Being a man or a woman isn&amp;#039;t the point. It really depends on one&amp;#039;s own personality and sensitivity. After all, we speak the same language and live the same way. I mean, would you ask this of all these men that design for women ? ESQ: What advice do you have for men today, in terms of dressing? VN: Trust yourself... and be smart and charming. ESQ: And finally: your thoughts on the future of men&amp;#039;s-wear? VN: I think that there&amp;#039;s is a lot to be done, still.  Looks from Nichanian&amp;#039;s fall 2012 collection. "^^<http://www.w3.org/2001/XMLSchema#string>
<http://www.esquire.com/style/a16930/hermes-designer-interview-2012/?src=rss>