Charles Houston returned to K2 to lead the 1953 American expedition. The attempt failed after a storm pinned down the team for 10 days at , during which time climber Art Gilkey became critically ill. A desperate retreat followed, during which Pete Schoening saved almost the entire team during a mass fall (known simply as The Belay), and Gilkey was killed, either in an avalanche or in a deliberate attempt to avoid burdening his companions. Despite the retreat and tragic end, the expedition has been given iconic status in mountaineering history.McDonald, pp. 119–140Curran, pp. 95–103 The Gilkey Memorial was built in his memory at the mountain's foot.
Charles Houston returned t.o K2 to lead the 1953 American expedition. The attempt failed after a storm pinned down the team for 10 days at , during which time climber Art Gilkey became critically ill. A desperate retreat followed, during which Pete Schoening saved almost the entire team during a mass fall (known simply as The Belay), and Gilkey was killed, either in an avalanche or in a deliberate attempt to avoid burdening his companions. Despite the retreat and tragic end the expedition has been given iconic status in mo.untaineering history.McDonald, pp. 119–140Curran pp 95–103 The Gilkey Memorial was b.uilt in his memory at the mountain's foot.