The American YDS system is an open-ended scale, with the current hardest climb being 5.15d, established by Silence in 2017. Like the French system, the numerical component of the American YDS system is focused on the hardest move on the route. In 1980, Jim Erickson introduced an additional rating for traditional climbing routes where the level and quality of the climbing protection is assessed. A suffix of "PG-13" (using the American cinema classification system) denotes the climbing protection is adequate, and if properly placed a fall will be short (in practice, the "PG-13" is usually omitted as it is considered the default). A suffix of "R" is added where protection is inadequate and any fall could risk serious injury, and "X" for routes with little or no protection and where any fall could be very long and potentially fatal (i.e. also known as a "chop route").
The American YDS system is an open-ended scale with the current hardest climb being 515d established by Silence in 2017 Like the French system the numerical component of the American YDS system is focused on the hardest move on the route In 1980 Jim Erickson introduced an additional rating for traditional climbing routes where the level and quality of the climbing protection is assessed A suffix of "PG-13" (using the American cinema classification system) denotes the climbing protection is adequate and if properly placed a fall will be short (in practice the "PG-13" is usually omitted as it is considered the default) A suffix of "R" is added where protection is inadequate and any fall could risk serious injury and "X" for routes with little or no protection and where any fall could be very long and potentially fatal (ie also known as a "chop route")