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<p>Wave energy reflection, defined as the ratio of offshore to onshore energy flux, R2, of surface gravity waves from a rough rocky shoreline, was investigated from two individual 15-day Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) deployments at Hopkins Marine Station in Monterey Bay, California. The first was deployed in 9 m water depth, located 100 m seaward of the rocky shoreline, and the second was deployed in 2.5 m water depth, located approximately 6 m from the shoreline. The mean R2 for both deployments was ~0.08, suggesting minimal reflection. R2 statistically decreased (at 95% significance) by 0.05 during the transition from low to high tide. R2 was found to be independent of onshore wave energy. The mean direction of the incoming and outgoing waves was approximately equal and opposite, though the outgoing waves displayed more directional variability. This increase is believed to occur from the alongshore variability of the shoreline that was weakly correlated with tidal elevation. These R2 are similar to observations at rough coral reefs and breakwaters. It appears that the primary reflector is the shoreline and not scattering by the rough subaqueous bottom. Wave dissipation plays a larger role than wave reflection at this rocky shoreline, which may influence biological community structures and nutrient transport.
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<br>Subjects: reflection; rocky shoreline; bottom friction; dissipation</div>
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O'Brien, Kevin J.</div>
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