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<dl><dd>Thesis advisor, Edward B. Thornton</dd>
<dd>AD-A331 932</dd>
<dd>Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, March 1997</dd>
<dd>Includes bibliographical references (p. 37-39)</dd>
<dd>Field measurements from a cross shore array of two pressure sensors to measure waves and eight manometer tubes to measure mean water elevation are used to examine set-down/up across the surf zone. The manometer tubes are connected to differential pressure transducers onshore allowing continuous set- down/up measurements. Flume measurements of set-down/up are also examined. Measured values are compared with numeric set-up values incorporating roller theory describing wave breaking. The model has two free parameters, B representing the vertical fraction of the wave covered by the roller and psi a scaling parameter for wave steepness. Optimal values of both are chosen by model fitting. Inclusion of the surface roller improves the set-up model fit to both beach and flume measurements</dd></dl><br>Subjects: PRESSURE TRANSDUCERS; BREAKWATERS; SURF</div>
<div class="fn value">
Morris, Bruce J</div>
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