<div class="description">
<dl><dd>[Technical report 155-29]</dd>
<dd>Prepared in cooperation with the United States Marine Corps</dd>
<dd>"Restricted/Security information"--Cover</dd>
<dd>Definitions -- Generation of waves -- Refraction of waves : Shoaling bottom ; By currents -- Surf zone : General features ; Typical surf conditions ; Breaker types ; Variability of surf ; Surf changes with tide stage ; Oscillatory currents ; Longshore currents ; Rip currents ; Profile changes by wave action -- Surfmanship : Advice for swimmers and rubber boat operators ; Advice for craft and amphibious vehicle operators</dd></dl><br>Subjects: Ocean waves; Head waves; Landing craft</div>
<div class="fn value">
<dl><dd>Johnson, J. W. (Joe William), 1908-</dd>
<dd>Wiegel, Robert L</dd>
<dd>University of California, Berkeley. Institute of Engineering Research</dd>
<dd>United States. Marine Corps</dd></dl></div>
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