Remains of the shirt in three parts: the back piece with a piece of the collar, left front piece with side panel and most of the sleeve and right front piece with the front half of the collar and part of the back piece.
<p>1: The back piece with a piece of the collar. The width of the shirt is extended at the side with an inserted panel of 460 mm that adds a width of 230 mm to the front and back of the garment. On the back side, this join is made ??selvage-to-selvage - same subject hem from the wrong side of the garment (7 whip stitches the rows with Z-twisted linen). For this case, there hem bottom left 350 mm, then the likelihood of split cut and demolished a large gap (of seam missing 360 mm), then comes on again a 630mm long piece of hem. Okstycket is here merely an irregularly cut piece with oblique cut top edge. On the W side torn along the fell seam is but one more piece of gusset left and a small piece (40 mm) of the seam towards the sleeve. Gusset edge is here 150 mm. (Fell-stitched with Z-twisted linen with 6 stitches/cm and about 1 mm width). A 145 mm long piece of the collar remains at the bottom, and only a 100 mm long piece at the top where the lace is sewn with Z-twist linen (with 8 left-slanted stitches/cm). The collar is 670 mm high. The collar has about 16 pleats "stripats" and 7 whip stitches at R sewn down on right side and about 7 stitches/cm in the closely spaced, parallel decorative seams. The whole arrangement is not more than 3 mm wide. Z-twisted linen has been used for the decorative seams. The wide lace is 50 mm wide, the narrow 15 mm. The wider lace pattern has a repeat of about 24 mm.
</p><p>2: A piece of the shirt left front with inserted panel front and large part of the sleeve. Maximum length is 530 mm from the bottom edge to the collar, and the 140 mm neck opening remains. Here is also a width preserved between neck split and sleeve seam. Of the sleeve seam, there are still 290 mm, of which 220 are above the gusset, which is thus preserved as a 70 mm wide strip and this gusset is cut obliquely. The panel seems then to be 595 or 600 mm wide across the chest. The smooth part at the shoulder is approximately 200 mm, according to this piece. The cuff is 45 mm wide with pleats "stripats", about 12 pleats / cm and 7 stitches in the two rows of decorative stitching (the entire decoration is not more than 3 mm wide!). The lace is the same as that on the collar. The sleeve portion is very bloody.
</p><p>3: Right front piece from the neck slit with collar front half and part of the back of the collar, entire shoulder seam and the upper part of the sleeve with the gusset - which, however, has a tear. A 1150 mm strip of the shirt front piece measured from the shoulder seam remains. At the bottom it is only 110 mm wide, and then it apparently has been cut off where the fabric is pleated (as a souvenir?). The shoulder seam is 160 mm and beveled so that it is 130 mm at the shoulder but shrinks to only a few mm at the throat. On the right side is the back piece that goes across the front. 3 seams with 7-8 stitches/cm. The rest of the fabric - approximately 420 mm - is gathered into the collar to a width of 100 mm. The fell seam that joins the front piece with the side width is made to be very smooth from the shirt inside with 7 left-slanting whip stitches, made ??from the right side of the selvage. The hem is only a millimeter wide. A 160 mm long piece of the collar remains at the bottom, and only 130mm from the corner at the top. Narrow lace runs along the top and the front neck opening. On the horizontal part of the collar a broader lace is attached.
</p><p>Common:
</p><p>Of linen cloth with a thread count of 43 warps x 44 wefts/square cm, consisting of the front, back (b 1470 mm), side panel and sleeves, underarm gussets, collar and cuffs. 
</p><p>The sides have bout 510 mm long slits (the selvage is visible oat the left side).  The front body of the shirt is a rectangular piece cut on the grain). The shirt is hemmed below with a 15-20 mm wide hem, stitched with 5 or 6 stitches/cm with Z-twisted linen. The rectangular-cut sleeves (only the left is partly preserved) are 610 mm long and 460 mm wide and decorated with 3 rows of white bobbin lace almost 20 mm wide.  The sleeves are sewn into the shirt side seam selvage-to-selvage. The right side has a 390 mm ??long slit (for half the sleeve width of 230 mm plus the 160 mm square gusset = 390 mm??). A 160 mm wide square gusset is inserted where the bottom of the sleeve meets the side seam. The sleeves are therefor sewn completely "normally" and not as Annamaja Nylén assumed with a more peculiar construction where the sleeve would have reached up to the neck opening.  The shoulder seams are almost completely straight, save the outer 165 mm. The seams are folded slightly wider at the shoulder than at the neck (about 5 mm difference). 
</p><p>The remaining width of the shirt body is gathered into the double folded collar which is almost 70 mm high and about 400 mm long so that the front parts of the shirt have been distributed along the collar's front parts that are 10 cm long, and the back part of the shirt has been gathered into the back part of the collar 200 mm
The neck slit is cut vertically in the the front piece, at least 270 mm long, visible on the right side where the 15 mm wide pointed lace trim has been preserved. Additionally note that the split is not entirely placed symmetrically in the middle of the shirt front piece, but with a few centimeters of displacement to the right. It has been cut about 600 mm from the left edge and 230 + 350 = 580mm from the right. At the top of the collar a 15 mm wide border of bobbin lace (with a pattern repeat of 20 mm) has been sewn. On the outside of the collar edge to edge with the thin lace and downwards a wider lace edging is sewn on. This is 50 mm wide and has a pattern repeat of 22 mm in a design reminiscent of fans.
</p><p>The decorative seam on the collar is sewn with back stitches in 2 parallel rows with 7 stitches/cm and 16 gathers of the shirt/cm. The lace is whipped on with 7 stitches/cm with a Z-twisted linen thread.  The right shoulder seam is a felled seam (similar to the shirt "C") 14.3 mm wide and 165 mm long. It is made with 3 seams with backstitches. The back piece shows that the shirt side slits probably were about 510 mm long.
</p>
In the seam itself the seam is torn. The left sleeve is relatively well-preserved, but the hem has been cut up and is very very bloody. It has a 70 mm long sleeve slit, torn, and the cuff is 4 5mm high, how long can not be known. A 17 mm insertion lace with a wheel motif pattern in a repeat of 25 mm has been sewn onto the sleeve as decoration in 3 rows from the shoulder seam to the hem of the sleeve. 6 lengths of 610 mm = 3660 mm or six aln of lace have been used. The lace insertions are set 100 mm apart.
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<a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="http://emuseumplus.lsh.se/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&amp;module=literature&amp;objectId=52305&amp;viewType=detailView"> LSH 52305</a> (LN_B06546_009426)