 landscape. The juxtaposition between all of that and these moments of just transcendent beauty that descend on you at odd moments. Each and every night when it came time for Peter and I to set up camp and drop our packs and lie back after dinner, we were able to take stock of our surroundings. And one of the things that we just did each and every night is we gazed into a night sky that was filled with more stars than either of us had ever seen in our lives.