text:  English edition, which adds tips for non-French speakers, was translated by American food writer Alexis Steinman. This is a hard city to understand. This is not a city like Paris where you come and you have your list of monuments. There was a writer, Blaise Senders, who said, Marseille is not a city of sights, it's a sight within itself. And that's why you have to be here, you have to walk, you have to be in the streets.