text:  At her restaurant Caterine, in a former votive candle factory, Dijon serves us a soup of Mediterranean green crabs, the kind she caught as a child with her mother. There's a roasted leek crumble. The crumble is made of dried, crushed prawn shells. Dijon grew up cooking with her father. She studied law, but the call of the kitchen was too strong. She says this is Marseille's moment. I think that Marseille, historically, is the meeting of many different civilizations.