text:  I imagine you're probably sick of talking about that review you wrote a dozen years ago, panning Guy Fieri's American Kitchen and Bar in Times Square. But I think it does point to something about your job that's unusual, which is the influence that it can have, arguably way more than a blog or an Instagram or TikTok post. How did you think about your power as a critic, the way you used it and how it changed over time?