query: How to correct a tax return filed electronically and already approved?

positive: Simply file an amended return to correct the mistake. This happens all the time and is a standard procedure that every legitimate tax pro can handle. You can work it out with the tax pro about whose mistake it was and who should pay for the additional service.

negative: "1099's and other official tax forms are often reported to the IRS by the issuer, whether or not you include a copy in your return. You should not neglect to include this income in your 2016 return in an attempt to balance out the two tax years. It's up to you whether or not you feel like filing an amended 2015 return to recover over-payment of taxes from that tax year. You have up to three years to amend tax returns using form 1040X. Since you couldn't have furnished a 1099 for this when you filed your 2015 return (otherwise you wouldn't be in receipt of it for tax year 2016), I'm assuming you reported it simply as ""Other Income"" and therefore would have been [over] taxed your marginal rate on it. From irs.gov: When to amend a return.  You should file an amended return if you need to correct your filing status, number of dependents, total income, tax deductions or tax credits. The instructions for Form 1040X, Amended U.S. Individual Income Tax Return, list additional reasons to amend a return."

negative: "The 2 months extension is automatic, you just need to tell them that you're using it by attaching a statement to the return, as Pete Becker mentioned in the comments. From the IRS pub 54: How to get the extension.   To use this automatic 2-month extension, you must attach a statement to your return explaining which of the two situations listed earlier qualified you for the extension.  The ""regular"" 6 months extension though is granted automatically, upon request, so if you cannot make it by June deadline you should file the form 4868 to request a further extension. Automatic 6-month extension.   If you are not able to file your return by the due date, you generally can get an automatic 6-month extension of time to file (but not of time to pay). To get this automatic extension, you must file a paper Form 4868 or use IRS e-file (electronic filing). For more information about filing electronically, see E-file options , later.  Keep in mind that the due date is still April 15th (18th this year), so the 6-month extension pushes it back to October. Previous 2-month extension.   If you cannot file your return within the automatic 2-month extension period, you generally can get an additional 4 months to file your return, for a total of 6 months. The 2-month period and the 6-month period start at the same time. You have to request the additional 4 months by the new due date allowed by the 2-month extension.  You can ask an additional 2 months extension (this is no longer automatic) to push it further to December. See the publication. These are extension to file, not to pay. With the form 4868 you're also expected to submit a payment that will cover your tax liability (at least in the ballpark). The interest is pretty low (less than 1% right now), but there's also a penalty which may be pretty substantial if you don't pay enough by the due date. See the IRS tax topic 301. There are ""safe harbor"" rules to avoid the penalty."

negative: The employer most likely has already sent that money that was withheld to the IRS. Therefore they cannot refund you any money. Instead you need to get the money back from the IRS. You do this by filing a tax return.  Your W2C will show that taxes were withheld (I.e., that you paid taxes). The rest of the return will show that no taxes were due and therefore you are entitled to have your money refunded. If you have already filed for that tax you, you just need to file an amended return with the new data. That amendment will show that you are to be refunded the extra money. Then just wait several weeks for the payment from the IRS.  As pointed out user102008, if it is Medicare and social security taxes that have been withheld in error, then you need to file a different set of forms with IRS. It would be nice if refunding FICA also occurred via the tax return.

negative: "I've consulted with 5-6 accountants and people who've had the issue before. The advice I received boils down to: ""If you do not attach your 83b with your personal tax return it is not effective. However you can still correct the requirement to file it along with your tax return, because you are within the 3 year window of when the return was originally due."" So you can amend your return/file it late within a certain window and things should be OK. The accountants that have confirmed this are Vanessa Kruze, Wray Rives and Augie Rakow - all of them corporate and credible accountants. You also need to keep onto the confirmation the IRS sent you in case of an audit. There is nothing on IRS.gov about attaching your 83b on a filed late or amended return but those accountants are people who say they've seen it happen frequently, have consulted with the IRS for solutions and that's the one they'd advise one to do in such situation. disclaimer: I am not a CPA"

negative: "Doing tl;dr* : Filed return in January. FOUR ""tax professionals"" (LOL) and a district supervisor later, the tax board says my refund was finally ""OKd for approval"" June 30.  * The full story of how Block FUBAR'd my return? I'm pitching it to Netflix as an original series along the lines of ""Stranger Things."" Possible spin off series, ""Ambulatory Cadavers"", using actual HoRrible Block office staff."

negative: I did receive TurboTax's automatically generated confirmation of successfully completing tax filing electronically the day I did my tax on their web site. About 24 to 48 hours after you push the button at TurboTax the IRS should either confirm or reject the initial check of the tax documents. You should return to the TurboTax website to make sure the IRS has accepted the reutrn. Next review either the confirmation you received when you pushed the button or the information at the TurboTax site. It should specify when the money would be withdrawn. You were given options regarding payment method and date you want to make the payment. Many people who finish their tax paperwork early, but owe money wait until the last day to submit. Now it is possible to submit paperwork early but specify a date just before the deadline. Print out or even better save an electronic copy of the information at the TurboTax website. I have no idea how long it takes the IRS to actually pull the money from an account, once the day you specified has occurred. You have to plan as if the withdraw will happen on the exact date, but with millions of tax payers making transactions it may be delayed by a day or two.

negative: You'll have to file an amended tax return for that tax year. Filing an Amended Tax Return

negative: I called the IRS (click here for IRS contact info) and they said I do not need to get a new EIN.  I could have just filed the appropriate employer federal tax return (940/941) and then the filing requirements would have been updated.  But while I was on the phone, they just updated the filing requirements for my LLC so I am all good now (I still need to file the correct form and make the correct payments, etc. but I can use this same EIN going forward). Disclaimer: Don't trust me (or this answer) for tax advice (your situation may be different).  The IRS person on the phone was very helpful so I recommend calling them if you are in a similar situation.  FYI, I have found calling the IRS to always be very helpful.

negative: Generally this gets corrected when you file returns for both States -- one owes you some refund, and younowe some money to the other. Multistate tax returns are their own special kettle of worms, so you might want to consider hiring a pro to straighten this out -- their software has some tools personal packages don't.

negative: "You need to hire a tax professional and have them sort it out for you properly and advise you on how to proceed next. Don't do it yourself, you're way past the stage when you could. You're out of compliance, and you're right - there are penalties that a professional might know how to mitigate, and maybe even negotiate a waiver with the IRS, depending on the circumstances of the case. Be careful of answers like ""you don't need to pay anything"" that are based on nothing of facts. Based on what you said in the question and in the comments, it actually sounds like you do have to pay something, and you're in trouble with the IRS already. It might be that you misunderstood something in the past (e.g.: you said the business had filed taxes before, but in fact that might never happened and you're confusing ""business filed taxes"" with ""I filed schedule C"") or it might be the actual factual representation of things (you did in fact filed a tax return for your business with the IRS, either form 1120 of some kind or 1065). In any case a good licensed (CPA or EA) professional will help you sort it out and educate you on what you need to do in the future."

negative: The accountant must provide you a signed copy of your return, and the e-file authorization form for you to sign which should show the amount you're supposed to get refunded. Once you sign the authorization, the accountant must e-file your return, and provide you the receipt of filing (usually an email from the accountant's software provider). If any of these steps didn't happen - your accountant is lying to you, and is likely to have misused your information. If your return was supposed to be filed on paper - then it was you who was supposed to mail it, via USPS certified mail. Usually, if a professional prepares a return, it would be e-filed unless there's a specific reason not to, or you explicitly requested paper filing (any of that would also be documented on a specific IRS form which you would sign). If your accountant is lying to you, then you should use form 14157 to complain about him to the IRS. Read carefully the letter you've got from the IRS. They're probably asking about the ACA insurance coverage information. It should have been reported on your tax return. See here for more details about what reporting you were supposed to do, depending on your situation. I suggest you go to a (different) tax preparer, make sure he is in fact licensed (I.e.: has EA or CPA credentials), and ask him to sort it out. If indeed the original preparer didn't file your return, you can also (in addition to the form 14157) file a complaint with your State regulatory agency that oversees tax preparers, if there's such. If the original preparer made a mistake, it is your right to sue for damages (including the costs of sorting it out, and penalties that you might have incurred due to that mistake).

negative: Free File is not software by the IRS.  Free File is actually a partnership between the IRS and the Free File Alliance, a group of tax software companies.  The software companies have all agreed to provide a free version of their tax software for low-income taxpayers. According to the Free File Alliance FAQ, the Alliance was formed in 2002 as part of a Presidential initiative to improve electronic access to government.  You can read all the excruciating details of the formal agreement (PDF) between the IRS and the Alliance, but basically, the participating software companies get exposure for their products and the possibility of up-selling services, such as state tax return software.

negative: Fill out the form manually, using last year's return as an example of how to report these gains.  Or experiment with one of the low-priced tax programs; I've been told that they are available for as little as $17, and if your alternative is doing it manually, spending a bit of time checking their results isn't a huge problem. Or run the basic TTax, and tell it to add the appropriate forms manually. It supports them, it just doesn't have the interview sections to handle them. (@DanielCarson's answer has more details about that.) Or...

negative: "The forms get updated every year, and the software providers need to get approved by the IRS every year. ""Form is not yet finalized"" means that this year form hasn't been approved yet. IRS starts accepting returns on January 31st anyway, nothing to be worried about. Why are you nearing a deadline? The deadline for 1120 (corporate tax return) is 2 and 1/2 months after your corp year end, which if you're a calendar year corp is March 15th. If your year end is in November/December - you can use the prior year forms, those are finalized."

negative: Such activity is normally referred to as bartering income. From the IRS site - You must include in gross income in the year of receipt the fair market value of goods or services received from bartering. Generally, you report this income on Form 1040, Schedule C (PDF), Profit or Loss from Business (Sole Proprietorship), or Form 1040, Schedule C-EZ (PDF), Net Profit from Business (Sole Proprietorship). If you failed to report this income, correct your return by filing a Form 1040X (PDF), Amended U.S. Individual Income Tax Return. Refer to Topic 308 and Amended Returns for information on filing an amended return.

negative: Search the website. There is generally a way to reverse the charge. I have seen these options exist on both Flexible spending accounts and Health Savings accounts. If the expense was for last year, and you had other expenses that you did not submit because you reached the limit, you will probably be OK. Send them both information on the wrong submission on the new submission. If you  left money on the table last year, they will want a check from you.   If the expense was for this year, you will not have a problem reversing the charge, because much of the year is left.  Of course due to the new rules regarding roll-over of lat years money into this year it could be more complex. You want to resolve it as soon a possible to minimize the complexity as deadlines for submission approach. If you don't report the mistake the extra income from the incorrect submission is considered taxable.

negative: "Read up on filing an ""amended tax return"".  Essentially you'll fill out the entire return as it should have been originally, then fill out form 1040X stating what has changed (and pay the additional tax due if needed).   According to TurboTax's website, they have partnered with Sprintax for non-resident tax prep.  I am not vouching for the service; just offering it as information."

negative: Either make your best guess, or set it low and then file quarterly Estimated Tax payments to fill in what's missing, or set it high and plan on getting a refund, or adjust it repeatedly through the year, or...

negative: I'm not a tax expert, but I think you mean Form 4562, right? If you acquire the laptop in the year for which you're filing taxes, then it is just that simple.  (At least according to my reading of 4562 instructions, and my history of accepted tax returns where I've done this for my own business.) If, however, you acquired the laptop in a previous year and have already depreciated it previously (with the plan to spread over several years), there is more complexity I believe -- you may limited in how you could accelerate the remaining depreciation.

negative: Pretty much. I'm working overseas developing an electronic system to streamline a paper approval workflow process. The amount of manpower it takes to manually maintain all this information is amazing. A simple access database application that tracks signatures and approvals could probably knock five people out of a full-time job.   I've already had several easily implementable features knocked off scope by people afraid of losing their own importance.

negative: Your calculations look correct in that they will be withholding taxes at the full year income rate even though you will only have 1/3 of that income which will put you in a lower tax bracket. There are online sites where you can fill out a return for free.  You can estimate your return by filling out a return using the numbers on your paystub (you will have to add in your last paystub manually). In regards to when you will get your refund check?  I believe it comes within a month or so of filing.

negative: You need to file IRS Form 1040-NR. The IRS's website provides instructions.

negative: The rebate amount is a non-qualified distribution: IRS Pub 969 describes how the HSA works: Reporting Distributions on Your Return How you report your distributions depends on whether or not you use the distribution for qualified medical expenses (defined earlier). If you use a distribution from your HSA for qualified medical expenses, you do not pay tax on the distribution but you have to report the distribution on Form 8889. However, the distribution of an excess contribution taken out after the due date, including extensions, of your return is subject to tax even if used for qualified medical expenses. Follow the instructions for the form and file it with your Form 1040 or Form 1040NR. If you do not use a distribution from your HSA for qualified medical expenses, you must pay tax on the distribution. Report the amount on Form 8889 and file it with your Form 1040 or Form 1040NR. If you have a taxable HSA distribution, include it in the total on Form 1040 or Form 1040NR, line 21, and enter “HSA” and the amount on the dotted line next to line 21. You may have to pay an additional 20% tax on your taxable distribution. I looked at several plans regarding how to handle mistaken distributions: example A What if I accidentally use my HSA Visa debit card for a non-qualified expense?   To fix this problem, just bring that same amount into any local branch and tell us it was a Mistaken Distribution. We can then put the funds back into your HSA and correct the problem.  example B  You’re allowed to correct mistaken   HSA withdrawals when there is clear and convincing   evidence that amounts were distributed from an HSA   because of a mistake of fact due to reasonable cause. You   can correct the mistake by repaying the withdrawal   no later than April 15 following the first year that you   knew or should have known that the withdrawal was   a mistake. When a correction is made, the mistaken   withdrawal does not have to be included in gross   income or be subject to the 6 percent additional tax, and   the repayment does not count as an excess contribution.   If an error is made by SelectAccount in its role as the   administrator, SelectAccount will be responsible for   taking appropriate corrective action. Check with your plan trustee on their procedure to fix the mistaken withdrawal.

negative: Normally you could either head down to the office supply store and pick up a copy of a tax program, or you could head over to the IRS office and pick up the instructions and forms. However, in your case you should be talking to a tax lawyer.  The unfiled taxes are bad enough but you own a business outside the USA and most likely have bank accounts also.  That brings you into the realm of FATCA.

negative: "There are two different issues that you need to consider: and The answers to these two questions are not always the same.  The answer to the first is described in some detail in Publication 17 available on the IRS website. In the absence of any details about your situation other than what is in your question (e.g. is either salary from self-employment wages that you or your spouse is paying you,  are you or your spouse eligible to be claimed as a dependent by someone else, are you an alien, etc),  which of the various rule(s) apply to you cannot be determined, and so I will not state a specific number or confirm that what you assert in your question is correct.  Furthermore, even if you are not required to file an income-tax return, you might want to choose to file a tax return anyway. The most common reason for this is that if your employer withheld  income tax from your salary (and sent it to the IRS on your behalf) but your tax liability for the year is zero, then, in the absence of a filed tax return, the IRS will not refund the tax withheld to you. Nor will your employer return the  withheld money to you saying ""Oops, we made a mistake last year"".  That money is gone: an unacknowledged (and non-tax-deductible) gift  from you to the US government. So, while ""I am not required to file an income tax return and I refuse to do voluntarily what I am not  required to do""  is a very principled stand to take, it can have monetary consequences. Another reason to file a tax return even when one is not required to do so is to claim the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC) if you qualify for it. As Publication 17 says in Chapter 36, qualified persons must File a tax return, even if you:   (a) Do not owe any tax,   (b) Did not earn enough money to file a return,   or   (c) Did not have income taxes withheld from your pay. in order to claim the credit. In short, read Publication 17 for yourself, and decide whether you are required to file an income tax return, and if you are not, whether it is worth your while to file the tax return anyway. Note to readers preparing to down-vote: this answer is prolix and says things that are far too ""well-known to everybody"" (and especially to you), but please remember that they might not be quite so well-known to the OP."

negative: It might not be leniency for first time payers, but they do have programs, some federal some local, that help the poor and elderly complete their tax forms. There are also programs that allow the poor to file electronically for free. For most people the first time they file their taxes they are using the EZ form. Which is rather easy to do, even without the use of either web based or PC based software. The software tools all ask enough questions on the EZ forms to allow the user to know with confidence when their life choices have made it advantageous to use the more complex forms. The web versions of the software allow the taxpayer to start for free, thus reducing their initial investment for the software to zero. Because the first time filer is frequently a teenager the parents are generally responsible for proving that initial guidance.  The biggest risk for a young taxpayer might be that the first year that itemizing deductions might be advantageous. They might never consider it, so they over pay. Or they discover in April that if they had only kept a receipt from a charity six months ago they could deduct the donation, so they are tempted to  claim the donation without proof. Regarding leniency and assistance there is an interesting tax credit. The Earned Income Tax Credit. it gives a Tax credit to the working poor. They alert people that they need to Check Your Eligibility for the Earned Income Tax Credit They know that significant numbers of taxpayers fail to claim it. EITC can be a boost for workers who earned $50,270 or less in 2012.   Yet the IRS estimates that one out of five eligible taxpayers fails to   claim their EITC each year. The IRS wants everyone who is eligible for   the credit to get the credit that they’ve earned. The rules for getting the credit are simple, all the information needed to claim it is already on the basic tax forms, but you have to know that you need a separate form to get the credit. But instead of making the credit automatic they say: If you use IRS e-file to prepare and file your tax return, the   software will guide you and not let you forget this important step.   E-file does the work and figures your EITC for you! and then :  With IRS Free File, you can claim EITC by using brand name tax   preparation software to prepare and e-file your tax return for free.   It's available exclusively at IRS.gov/freefile. Free help preparing   your return to claim your EITC is also available at one of thousands   of Volunteer Income Tax Assistance sites around the country. To find   the volunteer site nearest to you, use the VITA locator tool on   IRS.gov. But if you don't use free file you might never know about the form. Apparently it escapes 20% of the people who could claim it.

negative: "My wife and I use to file ""married file separately"".  I consulted a tax accountant and it does not matter who's name the accounts are under.  The interest from the accounts can be counted as income on either person's tax return regardless of whose name is on the account.  You can even split the interest income between the returns if that is advantageous.  This is true for any income earned between the two of you. It use to be a big hassle to file this way even using the software programs.  The programs would not attempt to allocate the income between the tax returns in order to minimize my tax liability.  I had to do this manually.  Most of the loopholes have been closed and the last couple of years I've filed ""married filed jointly"". I'm not sure how your wife's citizenship status affects any of this."

negative: This form is due March 15. This year, the 15th is Saturday, so the deadline is Monday March 17th.  Keep in mind, the software guys would have two choices, wait until every last form is finalized before releasing, or put the software out by late November when 80%+ are good to go.  Nothing is broken in this process. Keep in mind that there are different needs depending on the individual. I like to grab a copy in early December, and have a preliminary idea of what my return with look like. I'll also know if I'll owe so much that I should send in a quarterly tax payment.  The IRS isn't accepting any return until 1/31 I believe, so you've lost no time.  When you open the program, it usually ask to 'phone home' and update. In a couple weeks, all should be well.  (Disclosure - I have guest posted on tax issues at both TurboTax and H&R Block's blogs. The above are my own views.)

negative: You can sign over the check, of course. However, you'll probably need to deal with 1099 issued to you personally instead of the corporation later on. You'll have to add it to your tax return as income and negative income on the same line (line 21 of your 1040) and attach a statement explaining that the income was erroneously reported to you and will be reported on the corp form 1120. Another option is to return the check to the payer and ask them to reissue in the correct name. Next time, make sure to provide the properly filled W9 to your payers with the details of the corporation, not your own details.

negative: You are not required to file a tax return in Canada if you have no taxable income. If you do not file a return you may be requested to by Canada Revenue Agency, and then you'll need to file one. There are hundreds of thousands of Canadian residents who do not file tax returns. The Minister who overlooks the CRA may assess any amount of taxes on any resident whether they file a return or not. There are penalties for failing to file a return or filing late. The penalties are based on a percentage of the taxes owed. If you owe no taxes, then the penalties are meaningless.

negative: Assuming you're talking about your United States Federal Income Tax payment or refund, the IRS has a website for checking the status of your refund.  You can check that site to see where your refund is.  If it doesn't show up on that site (assuming you provide all the information correctly), then you may want to check TurboTax to verify it was correctly submitted. I believe that site also works for payments.  If not, Turbotax's page is not refund-specific (though I suspect it is just an API call to the same tool).

negative: I think you should consult a professional with experience in 83(b) election and dealing with the problems associated with that. The cost of the mistake can be huge, and you better make sure everything is done properly. For starters, I would look at the copy of the letter you sent to verify that you didn't write the year wrong. I know you checked it twice, but check again. Tax advisers can call a dedicated IRS help line for practitioners where someone may be able to provide more information (with your power of attorney on file), and they can also request the copy of the original letter you've sent to verify it is correct. In any case, you must attach the copy of the letter you sent to your 2014 tax return (as this is a requirement for the election to be valid).


query: What is an “Options Account”?

positive: Options are a derivative product, and in this case, derive their value from an underlying security, a traded stock. An option gives you the right, but not the obligation, to buy a stock at a given price (the strike price) by a given time (the expiration date.) What I just described is a call option. The opposite instrument is a put, giving you the right, but not the obligation, to sell the stock at a given price.  Volumes have been written on the subject, but I'd suggest that for a custodial Roth, I'd not activate the ability to trade options.  How to get started with options investing? offers a nice introduction to trading options. In my response, I offer an example of a trade that's actually less risky due to the option component.

negative: I'm travelling to the US soon and will transfer to a US $ account from either an € account or £ account. My dad recommends transferring € because it's strong at the moment compared to previously. The £ is weak compared to what it was, but still stronger than €. Which is the best option at the moment?

negative: When dividend is announced the stock and option price may react to that news, but the actual payout of the dividend on the ex-dividend date is what you probably are referring to. The dividend payout affects the stock price on the ex-dividend date as the stock price will drop by the amount of paid out dividend (not taking into account other factors). This in turn drives the prices of all options.  The amount of change in the option price for this event is not only dependent the dividend payout, but also on how far these are in our out of the money and what there time to expiration is. The price of a call option that is far out of the money would react less than the price of a put that would be far in the money. Therefore I would argue that these two will not necessarily offset each other.

negative: You may have to both save your windfall in a savings account and use it to pay down your mortgage. Almost every mortgage has some sort of pay-down option that allows you to pay off a percentage of the original principal without penalty. Any amounts above that will be penalized, most likely by the amount of interest the lending institution would have collected. Ask your lender what the penalties are and what penalty-free pay-down options you have. Knowing that and how much you will receive each quarter by selling the company stock will tell you how much of your money you need to put against your house and your savings account.

negative: Actually What you Can do here, Deposit the money to someones account who has an Account in abroad and Linked to Master Card.  Or Another option is You can take help from two banks Standard Chartard or HSBC, they provide  RFCD Account, which is a Dollar Account and International Cards which you can use in abroad.

negative: "A TFSA is a tax free savings account.  It is a type of account where you can buy various investments like stocks, bonds, or funds (mutual, exchange traded, and money market).  There are some other options but it's best to see what your bank or broker will allow. You probably specified the type of investment when you opened the account.  You can look at your statements or maybe online to see what you're invested in.  My guess is some kind of HISA (high interest savings account).  This is kind of the default option for banks. The government created these accounts for a variety of reasons.  The main stated reason was to encourage people to save.   Obviously they also do things to get votes.  There was an outcry after the change to a type of investment called ""investment trusts"".  This could be seen as a consolation prize.  These can be valuable to seniors for many reasons and they tend to vote more often.  There was also an election promise to eliminate capital gains taxes in some fashion. It's not profitable for the government, in fact it supposedly cost the federal government $410 million in 2013.  Banks make money by investing your deposit or by charging fees. You can see what every tax break 'costs' the government in lost revenue here http://www.fin.gc.ca/taxexp-depfisc/2013/taxexp1301-eng.asp#toc7"

negative: "Not all call options that have value at expiration, exercise by purchasing the security (or attempting to, with funds in your account).   On ETNs, they often (always?) settle in cash.  As an example of an option I'm currently looking at, AVSPY, it settles in cash (please confirm by reading the documentation on this set of options at http://www.nasdaqomxtrader.com/Micro.aspx?id=Alpha, but it is an example of this).  There's nothing it can settle into (as you can't purchase the AVSPY index, only options on it).  You may quickly look (wikipedia) at the difference between ""American Style"" options and ""European Style"" options, for more understanding here. Interestingly I just spoke to my broker about this subject for a trade execution.  Before I go into that, let me also quickly refer to Joe's answer:  what you buy, you can sell.  That's one of the jobs of a market maker, to provide liquidity in a market.  So, when you buy a stock, you can sell it.  When you buy an option, you can sell it.  That's at any time before expiration (although how close you do it before the closing bell on expiration Friday/Saturday is your discretion).  When a market maker lists an option price, they list a bid and an ask.  If you are willing to sell at the bid price, they need to purchase it (generally speaking).  That's why they put a spread between the bid and ask price, but that's another topic not related to your question -- just note the point of them buying at the bid price, and selling at the ask price -- that's what they're saying they'll do. Now, one major difference with options vs. stocks is that options are contracts. So, therefore, we can note just as easily that YOU can sell the option on something (particularly if you own either the underlying, or an option deeper in the money).  If you own the underlying instrument/stock, and you sell a CALL option on it, this is a strategy typically referred to as a covered call, considered a ""risk reduction"" strategy.  You forfeit (potential) gains on the upside, for money you receive in selling the option. The point of this discussion is, is simply: what one buys one can sell;  what one sells one can buy -- that's how a ""market"" is supposed to work.  And also, not to think that making money in options is buying first, then selling.  It may be selling, and either buying back or ideally that option expiring worthless. -- Now, a final example.  Let's say you buy a deep in the money call on a stock trading at $150, and you own the $100 calls.  At expiration, these have a value of $50.  But let's say, you don't have any money in your account, to take ownership of the underlying security (you have to come up with the additional $100 per share you are missing).  In that case, need to call  your broker and see how they handle it, and it will depend on the type of account you have (e.g. margin or not, IRA, etc).  Generally speaking though, the ""margin department"" makes these decisions, and they look through folks that have options on things that have value, and are expiring, and whether they have the funds in their account to absorb the security they are going to need to own.  Exchange-wise, options that have value at expiration, are exercised.  But what if the person who has the option, doesn't have the funds to own the whole stock? Well, ideally on Monday they'll buy all the shares with the options you have at the current price, and immediately liquidate the amount you can't afford to own, but they don't have to.  I'm mentioning this detail so that it helps you see what's going or needs to go on with exchanges and brokerages and individuals, so you have a broader picture."

negative: "Can anyone explain what each of them mean and how they're different from each other? When you ""buy to open"", you are purchasing an option and opening a new position. When you ""sell to open"", you are creating a brand new options contract and selling it. ""Covered"" means that you have assets in your account to satisfy the terms of the options contract. A ""covered call"" is a call option for which you own shares of the underlying stock that you will sell to the buyer at the option's strike price if he exercises the option. If you previously made a ""sell to open"" trade to create a new position, and you want to close the position, you can buy back the option. If you previously made a ""buy to open"" trade, you can ""sell to close"" which will sell back your option and close your position. In summary:"

negative: As an NRI, you can't hold a regular savings account. It should have been converted to NRO. Option 1: Open NRE account : Since I am relocating permanently this might not be good option for me as converting  This is the best Option as funds into NRE are not taxable in India. The provides a clean paper trail so that if there are any tax queries, you can answer them easily. You can open a Rupee NRE account, move the funds. On return move the funds into Normal Savings account and close the NRE account. This is not much of hassle. Option 2: Create NRO account: There would be taxes on the interest earned of the funds. But I am not sure of this, since I will have been moved to India permanently would I need to still pay taxes on the interest earned while I am in India? Any interest in NRO or normal savings account is taxable in India. There is no exemption.  Option 3: I can transfer my funds directly to my account in India but I believe I would have to pay tax on the the funds that I transfer and that would be double taxation. Which I think would be the worst option for me. Please correct me if I am wrong. This is incorrect. Any earnings outside of India when your status is NRI, is not taxable in India. Opening an NRE account provides proper paper trail of funds. As an NRI one cannot hold normal savings account. This should have been converted into an NRO account. Although there is no penalty prescribed, its violation of FEMA regulation. I also hope you were declaring any income in India, i.e. interest etc on savings and filing returns accordingly. Option 4: I can transfer the funds to my direct relatives account. I still believe there would be tax to be paid on the interest earned of the amount. You can transfer it to your parents / siblings / etc. This would come under gift tax purview and would not be taxable. They can then gift this back to you. However such transactions would appear to be evading regulations and may come under scrutiny. Interest on Savings account is taxable. So best is go with Option 1. No hassle. Else go with Option 3, but ensure that you have all the paperwork kept handy for next 7 years.

negative: What you're looking for is the 'Transaction Report'. When you're looking at the report (it comes up empty), open the options and click on the first tab 'Accounts'.  Here you can highlight multiple source accounts in the top pane, and filter by the Expense accounts that you are interested in the bottom pane. Here's an example that goes over the process (there are many examples online, I just included the first one that came up in a search).

negative: On payWave transactions, the $100 limit applies per transaction, and your daily withdrawal limit doesn't usually apply - it's only for SAV/CHQ transactions and ATM withdrawals, and payWave transactions are counted as Credit transactions. So really, anything in your account is up for grabs. There are a couple of options as I see it. You should see if there's a option to get an old-style Maestro/Cirrus card, with no Visa/MasterCard scheme link. You might need to push for it, but you can probably do it. Failing that, you could see if you can open a linked savings account with no card access, and put most of your money in there, and transfer what you need into your transaction account. Something that may also be of interest: Visa's Zero Liability policy

negative: "Not having seen the movie, I don't know what you mean by ""fraudulent options buys."" But there are two possibilities: 1) Someone placed buy orders on the account without authorization. In which case it comes down to a protracted lawsuit to determine whether the broker exercised due diligence, or whether Bruce foolishly gave someone his password. 2) The options themselves were fraudulent. In which case the OCC is responsible for making everyone whole."

negative: "You seem to have it right. You will be selling what's known as a covered call. When you sell the call, you enter it as ""sell to open"" and the system should see that you own the stock. You need to be approved for options trading, not all accounts are.  As far as this particular trade goes - No, the stock doesn't necessarily get called away the day it's in the money, but it can be. If the stock closes just in the money around the time of expiration are you ok will selling it for the strike price? Remember, the option buyer is taking a small risk, the cost of this option, hoping the stock will go far above that price."

negative: I had a joint account at Chase, and each of us had own on-line login, and could access the account (each of us also had non-joint accounts in Chase, and with the same login we already had we could access the joint accounts, but not the other's non-joint accounts). It seems like your bank is really backwards on this, change the bank. By the way, in joint accounts you have the option of requiring both partners to sign on every document, so that every check or order you write will only be valid with both of your signatures. I don't know if that's what you need, but some may want that (it is quite uncomfortable, IMHO).

negative: There are more than a few ideas here. Assuming you are in the U.S., here are a few approaches: First, DRIPs: Dividend Reinvestment Plans. DRIP Investing: How To Actually Invest Only A Hundred Dollars Per Month notes:  I have received many requests from readers that want to invest in   individual stocks, but only have the available funds to put aside $50   to $100 into a particular company. For these investors, keeping costs   to a minimum is absolutely crucial. I have often made allusions and   references to DRIP Investing, but I have never offered an explanation   as to how to logistically set up DRIP accounts. Today, I will attempt   to do that. A second option, Sharebuilder, is a broker that will allow for fractional shares. A third option are mutual funds. Though, these often will have minimums but may be waived in some cases if you sign up with an automatic investment plan.  List of mutual fund companies to research. Something else to consider here is what kind of account do you want to have?  There can be accounts for specific purposes like education, e.g. a college or university fund, or a retirement plan. 529 Plans exist for college savings that may be worth noting so be aware of which kinds of accounts may make sense for what you want here.

negative: "Thanks for the reply man. Yeah it literally says ""closed"" next to the accou t name. But we finally got ahold of someone, I guess they close your account whenever you have $0 in it and the account should open again 1-2 business days after the direct deposit tries to go into her account. At least that's what the lady said.   She hates this bank but we live in a small town and there's just not many options in terms of banking here.  Thanks for the help though man I appreciate it!"

negative: I am not aware of a single instrument that encapsulates what you are after; but the components do exist. At least in Canada, there are many Options traded on the Montreal Exchange that are based on Toronto ETFs.  All the standard TSX ETFs are represented, as well as some of the more exotic.  With a regular investment account approved for Options you should be able to do what you want. In a parallel vein, there are also double down and up ETFs.  One such example are the Horizons BetaPro series of ETFs.  They are designed to return double the market up or down on a daily basis and reset daily.  They do need to be watched closely, however. Good Luck

negative: Restricting the discussion only to Internet hacking:   In Option 2 or Option 3, you have to realize that the funds are credited to a specific Registered Bank Account. So the max damage an hacker can do is liquidate your holding. In Option 2, the Banking Internet Login and the Broker Internet Login will be different, For example HDFC Bank and HDFC Securities. In Option 3, if you choose your Bank, then it will be the same Login. If you choose a Non-Bank as provider then there is a different login. The risk is no different to investing in shares. In the end its up to an individual, there is nothing that stops you from opening multiple accounts in option 2 and option 3 and buying the stocks worth particular value. From an overall risk point of view; Option 2 seems best suited as the units are held in a Demat from by a Depository.

negative: The broker would give you a margin call and get you to deposit more funds into your account. They wouldn't wait for the stock price to reach $30, but would take this action much earlier. More over it is very unrealistic for any stock to go up 275% over a few hours, and if the stock was this volatile the broker would be asking for a higher margin to start with. What I am really worried about is that if there were any situation like this you are not considering what you would do as part of your risk management strategy. Before writing the option you should already have an exit point at which you would buy back the option to limit your losses.

negative: Yes, it's completely normal to buy (and sell) puts and other options without holding the underlying.  However, every (US) brokerage I know of only permits this within a margin account.  I don't know why...probably a legal reason.  You don't actually have to use the margin in a margin account.  If you want to trade options, though, you will need a margin account.

negative: This is exactly how I started, starting a simulation account on the CBOE website just to see what situation was profitable because it was all greek to me. Actually after learning the greeks, I realize that site was worse and eventually read some books and got better tools. The screenshot you have is telling you the strikes, but unfortunately they are showing you the technical name of the contract on the exchanges. For example, just like you type in AAPL to buy shares of AAPL stock, you can type in VIX1616K16E to get that one particular contract, expiration and strike. So lets break it down just by inferring, because this is what I just did with that picture: You know the current price of VIX, $17.06 Calls expiring November 16th, 2016:  What is changing? SYMBOL / YEAR / EXPIRATION DAY / STRIKE / OPTION-STYLE (?) So knowing that in the money options will be more expensive, and near the money options will be slightly cheaper, and out the money will be even cheaper, you can see what is going on, per expiration.

negative: Currently my online savings account pays an interest rate of 1.25%.  With 100K, I can earn about $104 per month in that account.  No risk, no timing, no fuss. So in theory you can make money by small changes in the valuations of stock.  However there are often better, risk free options for your money; or, there are much better options for returns with much less risk, but more than that of a bank account.

negative: If you have enough medical expenses to empty your HSA tax free, that is certainly an option. However, you have another option. You could roll your HSA funds over to a different HSA that has better investment options. Doing this has a huge advantage over any other taxable account or retirement account: it will grow tax free, and you will be able to withdraw tax free at anytime, as long as you accumulate enough medical expenses to cover your gains.  If you don't have a lot of money in your HSA now, it might not be worth the effort to maintain an HSA and continue to track your medical expenses. But if you have enough in there to invest, moving it to an investable HSA is probably a better option than simply moving it to a taxable account.

negative: Here is a nice overview from Vanguard on some options for a small business owner to offer retirement accounts.   https://investor.vanguard.com/what-we-offer/small-business/compare-plans I would look over the chart and decide which avenue is best for you and then call around to investment companies (Vanguard, Fidelity, etc. etc.) asking for pricing information.

negative: The easiest options appear to be to open an account with one of the large multinational banks like Citi. They have options such as opening two separate checking accounts, one in each currency, and Citi in particular has an international account that appears to make mutli-currency personal banking easier. All of the options have minimum balance requirements or fees for conversion, but if you need quick access this seems to be the best bet. Even if this is a one-time event and you don't need the account, a bank like Citi may be able to help you cash the check and get access to the funds quicker than a national or local bank. http://www.citibank.com/ipb-global/homepage/newsite/content/english/multi_cap_bank_depo.htm Alternatively if you know anyone with a US bank account you can deposit it with them and take the cash withdrawal from their account, assuming they agree, the check isn't too large, etc.

negative: "First and foremost - make sure where you are purchasing the product is a reputable organization.  Secondly (coming from a biased computer geek) - be aware that Apple is a content trap.  Now on to my answer to your question... How do ""Preferred Account"" programs work? They're ""Preferred"" because they tend to bring in more money to the lender.  It may say No payments for 6 months but the fine print may have you being charged interest during those 6 months, meaning your new shiny computer will be costing more than the sticker price.  The good side is that you don't have to send in any actual payments for 6 months, but be aware that you'll probably be paying more than advertised. What are the different ways I can do it? Your listed options 1 & 2 are both good ways to pay for your new computer.  Yes, option 1 will charge you sales tax, but are you sure paying online excludes sales tax?  Some states mandate it.   Option 2 is a viable option too - probably your best option. 1st - there is possibly no sales tax with purchases made online, although there may be a delivery charge.   2nd - you're not committing to an additional monthly bill, you are essentially paying with cash, just directly from your bank account.  No interest charge! 3rd - that little Visa logo is your friend.  Purchases made through Visa & MasterCard (whether it's a credit or debit card)  normally have an auto-extended warranty feature (you may want to verify with Visa before taking my word on it).  Typically they double any manufacture's warranty.   Lastly - you can always set up a PayPal account and link it to your bank account.  Assuming the site you plan on purchasing the computer from accepts PayPal."

negative: You probably will not find to many places if any that give you live quotes on options because for the general public there is not that high of a demand. Most people do not even know what stock options are.  You can get update on some sites like CNBC, but you will have refresh constantly to get the latest option prices.  You can also try an online broker, most of whom will let you have access to their tools and quotes if you sign up for an account. Some require a deposit before you can access those tools and some don't. Personally, I use TD Ameritrade and I do not believe they require a deposit to use their tools, but don't quote me on that.

negative: What you want is a cashless transaction. It's part of the normal process. My employer gives me 1000 options at $1, I never need to come up with the money, the shares are bought and sold in one set of transactions, and if the stock is worth $10, I see $9000 less tax withholding, hit the account. No need for me to come up with that $1000.

negative: In general, minors cannot enter into legally binding contracts --   which is what credit accounts are -- so an individually held card is   probably not an option for you right now. You will not be approved for a credit card because you are minor. The only option credit card wise for you is for your parents to add you on as an authorized user onto their accounts. The upside is that you and your parents can work out a monthly payment for the amount you spend on your equipment, the downside is that if your parents don't pay their credit card bill, your credit score/report can be negatively affected. (This also depends on the bank, however, all the banks I bank with report monthly payment activities on authorized users' credit reports as well. There might be a bank that doesn't.)  In terms of credit cards, there is nothing you can do. What you could do as the comments have suggested is either save up money for the equipment you want, or buy something cheaper.

negative: If you arent sure what field you want to be in, then accounting is your best bet by far IMO.  It's applicable to investment banking, investment management, and corporate finance and just in general it's incredibly useful to understand accounting rules. Even if you end up in Sales one day, it's useful to know exactly how to read a P&L properly or how revenue recognition and return accruals work, for example.  My recco would be for financial accounting if you havent done those courses yet. Cost Accounting can also be very useful, especially for corporate finance jobs.  If you do more accounting courses, basically what will happen is you will become a more well-polished Finance candidate.  Now, if you are trying to keep more options open and think you might want to have options in more general business fields (i.e. Consulting, Brand Management, etc.) then branch out and take Marketing, Stats, etc.  What I would again not recommend though is taking a programming class. There just arent many jobs where knowing a little bit of Java or Python helps that much. Most companies prefer to have business specialists (e.g. people with finance/accounting/marketing knowledge) and IT/software specialists. If you want to be some kind of Product Manager for a tech company or a quant I suppose you could try to go all in on the programming- take 4, 5, 6 courses to really develop a noticeable background. Taking 1 Java class just has a low marginal return because you wont know anything meaningful to participate seriously in engineering/tech discussions and you will have missed an opportunity to become even more useful as a business specialist with deeper finance/accounting/marketing knowledge.

negative: "If you want an ""account statement"" from the IRS listing the taxes due and paid and confirming a zero balance remaining, you want what they call a Tax Account Transcript. It sounds like you tried to submit this online, but yes, it would require the actual taxpayer to submit it. The other option would be to fill out Form 4506-T requesting the Form 1040 Tax Account Transcript, have the taxpayer sign it, and mail it in. Presumably whatever method you used to have her sign the Form 1040 you prepared for her you could also use to have her sign the 4506-T. Another option could be to try to request the transcript over the phone. I don't know what authentication they require, or if you would need to have been listed on the 1040 as an authorized Third Party Designee. According to the IRS Transcript FAQ Page: Q19. What if I’m unable to use Get Transcript by Mail? If you are unable to use Get Transcript by Mail, you may try our automated phone transcript service at 800-908-9946 and also receive your transcript by mail. Please allow 5 to 10 calendar days for delivery. But unless there's a reason to think that the tax account wasn't credited properly or the IRS is sending another bill or the like, I don't think there's a lot of point in doing so. In general, the fact that the check cleared the bank should be sufficient documentation that the amount was paid."

negative: Automatic exercisions can be extremely risky, and the closer to the money the options are, the riskier their exercisions are. It is unlikely that the entire account has negative equity since a responsible broker would forcibly close all positions and pursue the holder for the balance of the debt to reduce solvency risk.  Since the broker has automatically exercised a near the money option, it's solvency policy is already risky. Regardless of whether there is negative equity or simply a liability, the least risky course of action is to sell enough of the underlying to satisfy the loan by closing all other positions if necessary as soon as possible. If there is a negative equity after trying to satisfy the loan, the account will need to be funded for the balance of the loan to pay for purchases of the underlying to fully satisfy the loan. Since the underlying can move in such a way to cause this loan to increase, the account should also be funded as soon as possible if necessary. Accounts after exercise For deep in the money exercised options, a call turns into a long underlying on margin while a put turns into a short underlying. The next decision should be based upon risk and position selection.  First, if the position is no longer attractive, it should be closed.  Since it's deep in the money, simply closing out the exposure to the underlying should extinguish the liability as cash is not marginable, so the cash received from the closing out of the position will repay any margin debt. If the position in the underlying is still attractive then the liability should be managed according to one's liability policy and of course to margin limits. In a margin account, closing the underlying positions on the same day as the exercise will only be considered a day trade.  If the positions are closed on any business day after the exercision, there will be no penalty or restriction. Cash option accounts While this is possible, many brokers force an upgrade to a margin account, and the ShareBuilder Options Account Agreement seems ambiguous, but their options trading page implies the upgrade. In a cash account, equities are not marginable, so any margin will trigger a margin call.  If the margin debt did not trigger a margin call then it is unlikely that it is a cash account as margin for any security in a cash account except for certain options trades is 100%. Equities are convertible to cash presumably at the bid, so during a call exercise, the exercisor or exercisor's broker pays cash for the underlying at the exercise price, and any deficit is financed with debt, thus underlying can be sold to satisfy that debt or be sold for cash as one normally would. To preempt a forced exercise as a call holder, one could short the underlying, but this will be more expensive, and since probably no broker allows shorting against the box because of its intended use to circumvent capital gains taxes by fraud.  The least expensive way to trade out of options positions is to close them themselves rather than take delivery.

negative: You can buy a put and exercise it. The ideal option in this case will have little time premium left and very near the money. Who lent you the shares? The person that sold you the option! In reality, when you exercise,  assignment can be random, but everything is [supposedly] accounted for as the option seller had to put up margin collateral to sell the option.