<P> Individual waves in deep water break when the wave steepness -- the ratio of the wave height H to the wavelength λ -- exceeds about 0.17 , so for H > 0.17 λ . In shallow water , with the water depth small compared to the wavelength , the individual waves break when their wave height H is larger than 0.8 times the water depth h , that is H > 0.8 h . Waves can also break if the wind grows strong enough to blow the crest off the base of the wave . </P>
<P> Individual waves in deep water break when the wave steepness -- the ratio of the wave height H to the wavelength λ -- exceeds about 0.17 , so for H > 0.17 λ . In shallow water , with the water depth small compared to the wavelength , the individual waves break when their wave height H is larger than 0.8 times the water depth h , that is H > 0.8 h . Waves can also break if the wind grows strong enough to blow the crest off the base of the wave . </P>
the ratio of the wave height to its wave length is called
the ratio of the wave height to its wave length is called
wave steepness
wave steepness