<P> While Newton explained the tides by describing the tide - generating forces and Bernoulli gave a description of the static reaction of the waters on Earth to the tidal potential , the dynamic theory of tides , developed by Pierre - Simon Laplace in 1775 , describes the ocean 's real reaction to tidal forces . Laplace 's theory of ocean tides took into account friction , resonance and natural periods of ocean basins . It predicted the large amphidromic systems in the world 's ocean basins and explains the oceanic tides that are actually observed . The equilibrium theory , based on the gravitational gradient from the Sun and Moon but ignoring the Earth 's rotation , the effects of continents , and other important effects , could not explain the real ocean tides . Since measurements have confirmed the theory , many things have possible explanations now , like how the tides interact with deep sea ridges and chains of seamounts give rise to deep eddies that transport nutrients from the deep to the surface . The equilibrium tide theory calculates the height of the tide wave of less than half a meter , while the dynamic theory explains why tides are up to 15 meters . Satellite observations confirm the accuracy of the dynamic theory , and the tides worldwide are now measured to within a few centimeters . Measurements from the CHAMP satellite closely match the models based on the TOPEX data . Accurate models of tides worldwide are essential for research since the variations due to tides must be removed from measurements when calculating gravity and changes in sea levels . </P>
<P> While Newton explained the tides by describing the tide - generating forces and Bernoulli gave a description of the static reaction of the waters on Earth to the tidal potential , the dynamic theory of tides , developed by Pierre - Simon Laplace in 1775 , describes the ocean 's real reaction to tidal forces . Laplace 's theory of ocean tides took into account friction , resonance and natural periods of ocean basins . It predicted the large amphidromic systems in the world 's ocean basins and explains the oceanic tides that are actually observed . The equilibrium theory , based on the gravitational gradient from the Sun and Moon but ignoring the Earth 's rotation , the effects of continents , and other important effects , could not explain the real ocean tides . Since measurements have confirmed the theory , many things have possible explanations now , like how the tides interact with deep sea ridges and chains of seamounts give rise to deep eddies that transport nutrients from the deep to the surface . The equilibrium tide theory calculates the height of the tide wave of less than half a meter , while the dynamic theory explains why tides are up to 15 meters . Satellite observations confirm the accuracy of the dynamic theory , and the tides worldwide are now measured to within a few centimeters . Measurements from the CHAMP satellite closely match the models based on the TOPEX data . Accurate models of tides worldwide are essential for research since the variations due to tides must be removed from measurements when calculating gravity and changes in sea levels . </P>
who had propounded the dynamic theory of origin of ocean tides
who had propounded the dynamic theory of origin of ocean tides
Pierre - Simon Laplace
Pierre - Simon Laplace