title: Fashion: Photography of the Nineties
author: Camilla Nickerson
description: Fashion photography in the '90s can be roughly divided into the glamour and grunge schools, with the former drawing much of its inspiration from Helmut Newton and the commercial photographers of the '50s, and the latter dipping into the world of "art" photography for its references. In <i>Fashion: Photography of the Nineties</i>, edited by Camilla Nickerson (senior fashion editor at <i>Vogue</i>) and Neville Wakefield, the connection between the worlds of art and fashion is explored in a totally pictoral manner, dispensing completely with introductory essays or explanations of the choices of photographs and photographers presented. This approach is tremendously effective: the juxtaposition of full-page images from such fashion industry mainstays as Ellen Von Unwerth, Mario Sorrenti, and Inez van Lamsweerde &amp; Vinoodh Matadin with photographers known more for their interest in shocking, art-gallery images, such as Nan Goldin and Richard Prince illustrates well the extreme influence that such artists (as well as Larry Clark, who is not represented here) have had on commercial photography. This beautifully printed volume offers an imagistic history of the low-rent eroticism of the contemporary fashion-photo scene. While this look has been criticized as glamorizing drugs, in fact it seems here, when set alongside the overly made-up, perfectly posed models (without fat or pores) of the glamour scene, to provide a more realistic and attainable vision of beauty, and one that is no less compelling or erotic for it's portrayal of splotchy skin or imperfect forms.
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  ![Cover Image](../images/00004.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ![title7.jpg](../images/00005.jpeg)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  [![fm.png](../images/00006.jpeg)](http://www.ink-slingers.co.uk)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  Contents
  
  
  
  
  
  [The Fall of the Hotel Dumort](part0004.html)
  
  
  
  
  
  [About Cassandra Clare and Maureen Johnson](part0006.html)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  JULY 1977
  
  
  
  
  
  “What do you do?” the woman asked.
  
  
  
  
  
  “This and that,” Magnus said.
  
  
  
  
  
  “Are you in fashion? You look like you’re in fashion.”
  
  
  
  
  
  “No,” he said. “I am fashion.”
  
  
  
  
  
  It was a bit of a twee remark, but it seemed to delight his seat companion on
  the plane. The comment had been a bit of a test, actually. Everything seemed
  to delight his companion—the seat back in front of her, her nails, her glass,
  her own hair, everyone else’s hair, the barf bag . . .
  
  
  
  
  
  The plane had been in the air for only an hour, but Magnus’s companion had
  gotten up to use the restroom four times. Each time she’d emerged moments
  later, furiously rubbing her nose and visibly twitching. Now