title: The Bistros, Brasseries, and Wine Bars of Paris: Everyday Recipes from the Real Paris
author:  Daniel Young 
description: The premise of this savvy, stylish cookbook is that French chefs can teach us a thing or two about fast food. Young (<i>The Paris Caf Cookbook</i>) trains his investigative palate on Paris's sophisticated but informal eateries: wine bars, bistros and brasseries. In his well-researched introduction, he distinguishes the three types of establishments, offering a short history of each (all three, it happens, have evolved in a similar direction, so that classifications like "gastro bistro" and "brasserie du luxe" are less descriptive than they used to be). Cooking in such places elevates local, seasonal and often cheap ingredients into inventive concoctions, like a chicken roasted with crushed hazelnuts and cauliflower florets, or Nectarine Gratin with Mango Coulis. Many of the recipes are simply classic: Cheese Puffs (<i>Gougres</i>),Warm Lentil Salad, Onion Soup Gratine, Pan-Grilled Rib Steak with Barnaise Sauce, <i>Choucroute</i> and Chocolate Profiteroles. For a somewhat experienced chef with a willful disregard for cholesterol, these are easy to make at home. For the more casual cookbook browser, Young has also included a dining guide of the essential bistros, brasseries and wine bars he so temptingly describes. B&amp;w photos. <i>(Feb.)</i> <br />Copyright  Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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  PARIS
  
  
  June 1791
  
  
  There was a smell to Paris in the summer mornings that Magnus enjoyed.
  
  
  This was surprising, because on summer mornings Paris smelled of cheese that
  had sat in
  
  
  the sun all day, and fish and the less desirable parts of fish. It smelled of
  people and
  
  
  all the things that people produce (this does not refer to art or culture but
  to the
  
  
  baser things that were dumped out of